Method for producing personalized cosmetic preparations

Abstract

The present invention is in the field of personalized sunscreens, the composition of which is determined in part by the end user (personalized), and relates to a method for their production and the use of a cosmetic mixture in a dispensing container to carry out the method.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of personalized sunscreens whose composition is partially determined (personalized) by the end user, to a method for manufacturing the same and to a dispensing container for manufacturing the same, and also to said dispensing container for the use or execution of a method of a cosmetic mixture within the dispensing container.

Background Art

[0002] A number of sunscreens are available to the end user which satisfy most of the end user's requirements and desires regarding their effects in a standard manner. For example, there are day creams which additionally contain not only UV filters but also a nourishing skin lotion having a cooling effect and containing no perfume. However, there are also end users who prefer to use only sunscreens which are individually adjusted ( "personalized") according to the particularities of the skin or hair, or according to environmental emissions or other desires, or who wish to partially determine the composition of the cosmetics. In particular, all skin has different needs for protection from UV radiation.

[0003] EP-A-00443741 describes an apparatus for the manufacture of personalized hair products which the end user can manufacture himself at the time of use. Thus, for example, it is possible to freshly manufacture a permanent wave composition. For this purpose, end user data, such as hair length, hair condition, etc. are entered into a computer which transmits instructions for the preparation of the formulation to the apparatus which mixes the necessary amounts of components from storage containers with one another for this purpose.

[0004] According to EP1656853, it is possible to manufacture to a certain extent skin cosmetics which are personalized by the end user, where two different cosmetic components are stored in separate chambers and the user can vary the ratio between the two mixtures by operating a control element with the intention of achieving different optical effects, such as gloss, etc.

[0005] On the other hand, EP-B-2038189 describes a method by which end-users can produce conventional quantities of cosmetics at home from precisely measured ingredients in packaging units, such as capsules, by first introducing heated water into a chamber containing an oil phase. The mixture is then introduced into a homogenization unit for emulsion formation. In the case of cosmetic formulations with multiple cosmetic ingredients, this method requires producing the emulsion in a continuous manufacturing step and storing the different raw materials separately. If the use of only one capsule is desired, the capsule needs to be divided so that the ingredients are stored separately.

[0006] International patent application WO2018 / 073541 discloses an apparatus for manufacturing cosmetic products having a water tank and a movable plate capable of receiving two or more capsules, in which a texturing agent is present in one capsule and other active components are present in the other capsules.

[0007] International patent application WO2018 / 073541 proposes the use of different capsules, in which a texturing agent, preferably a cosmetic oil, is always contained within one capsule, sometimes together with an amphiphilic molecule-based emulsifier. Alternatively, the texturing agent may be a polymer, such as a polysaccharide, such as xanthan gum or an acrylic acid-based polymer. A cosmetic active ingredient, such as an anti-wrinkle composition or a moisturizer, is contained within a second capsule, sometimes together with a preservative. A fragrance may be contained within a further capsule. No specific formulation is disclosed in this application.

[0008] For end-users to produce customary quantities of sunscreen in-house, by or for end-users, it is impossible to mimic industrial-scale processes with complex process and temperature configurations; instead, a simple and rapid manufacturing process is required. However, sunscreens containing water and oil-based or poorly soluble components, such as pigments, UV filters, and fragrances, are relatively difficult to manufacture because components and active ingredients that are mostly miscible or non-miscible cannot be easily converted into stable fine emulsions. The various "personalized" active ingredients that may be present in cosmetic formulations according to the end-user's requirements or preferences can also complicate the formation and stability of cosmetic formulations. [Overview of the Initiative]

[0009] Therefore, the object of the present invention was to provide a simple method for the end user to produce sunscreen in a conventional quantity at home, in which the end user partially determines the composition of the sunscreen according to their wishes / requests or requirements. The method is particularly suitable for water and oil-based sunscreens, or such sunscreens containing non-water-soluble or non-oil-soluble active ingredients. Furthermore, the method enables a high degree of personalization, i.e., is suitable for many active cosmetic ingredients, and allows the end user to have access to a homogeneous sunscreen that allows for a personalized SPF (Sun Protection Factor). Finally, the method is intended to provide a sunscreen that is equivalent in quality to cosmetic formulations manufactured on an industrial scale, i.e., one that the end user perceives as homogeneous and stable over long periods of time.

[0010] The object of the present invention is achieved by a method for producing a sunscreen in a customary amount at home, controllable by and / or according to the end user's wishes ("personalized"), in a device having a mixing device a) and at least one dispensing device b) comprising at least two dispensing containers, wherein a base mixture is present in one dispensing container b1), and active cosmetic ingredients suitable for personalization are present in the other dispensing container b2), the contents of dispensing containers b1) and b2) are emptied into the mixing device a) and mixed in the mixing device, the contents of dispensing container b1) including the base mixture are emptied into the mixing device together with at least one emollient, at least one surfactant and at least one UV filter, and the contents of dispensing container b1) also include or do not include at least one rheological modifier.

[0011] In the context of this invention, the term “sunscreen” is understood to mean a cosmetic used for UV protection of the end user’s skin and hair. Sunscreens may also be used in daycare and may provide UV protection for the skin and / or hair. This invention relates to sunscreens selected from, for example, gels, gel creams, lotions, hydroformulations, cosmetic oils and oil gels, face care products, and personal care products. In the context of this invention, the terms “sunscreen” and “cosmetic formulation” are interchangeable. According to this invention, sunscreens are personalized and therefore may include not only a personalized sun protection index but also further personalized characteristics, such as odor or sensory characteristics.

[0012] Further sunscreens of the present invention are for skin cosmetic formulations, particularly for further skin care. These take the form of W / O or preferably O / W skin creams, day creams, eye creams, face creams, wrinkle creams, mimic creams, moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, vitamin creams, skin lotions, care lotions, emulsions, balsams, gels, and moisturizing lotions, moisturizing emulsions, face creams, body creams, and hand creams.

[0013] Further cosmetic formulations of the present invention include anti-acne products, insect repellents, and baby care products.

[0014] The sunscreens manufactured according to the present invention may take the form of creams, gels, lotions, emulsions, serums, fluids, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, waxes / oil masses, pastes, or ointments.

[0015] In the context of this invention, the term “a quantity commonly used in a household” is understood to mean an amount required by the end user for at least one application of the cosmetic product and not exceeding the amount of sunscreen that the end user typically purchases commercially.

[0016] These amounts vary depending on the sunscreen, but are typically in the range of at least a few ml or a few mg, usually at least 1 ml or 1 mg, and up to 1000 ml or 1000 g. More preferably, in the context of the present invention, the sunscreen is prepared in an amount of 15 to 50 ml or 15 to 50 g, preferably 20 to 35 ml or 20 to 35 g, and particularly 30 ml or 30 g.

[0017] In the context of this invention, the term "end user" is understood to mean a consumer who uses or wishes to use a sunscreen.

[0018] In the context of this invention, the term "dispensing container" is understood to mean a container from which a mixture or active ingredient is dispensed.

[0019] In the context of this invention, the expression “active cosmetic ingredient for personalization” is understood to mean a substance present in a sunscreen based on the end user’s personal (individual) requirements regarding the sunscreen’s effects, such as anti-aging, moisturizing, specific fragrance, UV protection (SPF), specific sensory characteristics, etc. Such active cosmetic ingredients for personalization will also be referred to hereafter simply as “active cosmetic ingredient.”

[0020] In the context of the present invention, the term “emollient” is understood to mean a substance that makes the skin soft and supple by supplying lipids to the skin, reducing evaporation, or increasing the skin’s moisture content. Preferred emollients are substances from the group of oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons and / or organosilicon compounds that are liquid at room temperature or have a melting point below 45°C.

[0021] In the context of this invention, the term “surfactant” is understood to mean a compound that reduces the interfacial tension of a liquid or the interfacial tension between two phases. Such compounds are also called surfactants or emulsifiers.

[0022] In the context of the present invention, the term "rheological modifier" is understood to mean a substance that modifies the deformation and flow properties of a material. This includes organic or inorganic compounds, usually macromolecules, that modify intermolecular forces by forming adhesions (intramolecular) or bondings (intramolecular), preferably increasing the viscosity of the bonding phase of a cosmetic formulation.

[0023] In the context of the present invention, the method of the present invention is carried out using a dispensing container b1) containing a base mixture, wherein the base mixture contains or does not contain a rheological modifier, at least one emollient, a surfactant, a UV filter, and a rheological modifier.

[0024] Skin softener The emollients present in the base mixture may be oils, fats and / or waxes from the group formed by, for example, esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils and fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, Guerbet alcohols, mono- / dialkyl ethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Examples of possible esters from the group include esters of linear fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear fatty alcohols with linear or branched carboxylic acids, esters of alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols, such as diols or trimer triols, wax esters, triglycerides or partial glycerides (called mono- / di- / triglyceride esters), esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, natural vegetable oils and fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Straight chain C6~C 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols or branched C6-C 22 Carboxylic acid and linear or branched C6-C6 22Suitable examples from the group of esters with fatty alcohols include myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl erucate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, and o stearate. Lair, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J600), behenyl oleate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucate, ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), coconut alkyl caprylate (Cetiol® C5), (caprylic / capric acid) coconut alkyl (Cetiol® LC, Cetiol® C These are 5C), propylheptyl caprylate (Cetiol® Sensoft), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol® V), and cetearyl ethylhexanoate.

[0027] Furthermore, alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids and linear or branched C6-C6 molecules. 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, preferably esters of lactic acid, such as lauryl lactate, are preferred.

[0028] Furthermore, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, preferably esters of malic acid, adipic acid and / or sebacic acid, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl malate and / or diisopropyl sebacate, are preferred.

[0029] Also suitable are esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (e.g., propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol), such as di(caprylic / capric acid) propylene glycol (Myritol® PGDC), C6-C 10 fatty acid-based triglycerides, C6-C 18 fatty acid-based liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures (Myritol® 331, Myritol® 312, Myritol® 318), C6-C 22 esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C 22 alcohols (e.g., Finsolv® TN, Cetiol® AB).

[0030] Sufficiently suitable as natural, especially vegetable, oils and fats are peanut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, malt oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, such as Cegesoft® PFO, Cegesoft® PS6, Cegesoft® SBE, Cegesoft® SH, Cegesoft® VP or Cetiol® SB45.

[0031] Also usable as skin softeners are, for example, natural plant waxes, such as fruit waxes (e.g., orange wax) and animal waxes, such as wool wax.

[0032] Also usable as skin softeners are C 12 ~C 15 fatty alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or 1-pentadecanol, usually obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes.

[0033] Further preferred emollients are organosilicon compounds, often simply called silicones. These can take the form of cyclic, branched, or linear silicones. Silicones are high molecular weight synthetic polymer compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or grid pattern via oxygen atoms, with the remaining silicon bonds filled by hydrocarbon groups (usually methyl, and less frequently ethyl, propyl, phenyl, etc.). Systematically, silicones are called polyorganosiloxanes.

[0034] A favorable polyorganosiloxane is, for example, the following structural formula

[0035] [ka] This is a methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxane that can be represented by [the given formula].

[0036] These are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in various chain lengths and molecular weights. They are available, for example, from Evonik under the trade name Abil® 350, or from Dow Chemicals under the trade name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid.

[0037] Equally advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones also called cyclomethicone according to INCI (e.g., decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane), amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone), and silicone waxes, such as polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxystearyl dimethicone) (these are available from Evonik as various Abil wax grades).

[0038] In accordance with the present invention, particularly preferred silicones are dimethicone and cyclomethicone.

[0039] Further preferred emollients include linear or branched C6-C6 chains. 22 Mono- and / or dialkyl carbonates of fatty alcohols, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol® 4 All), fatty alcohol-based Guerbet carbonates having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and linear or branched symmetric asymmetric dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, e.g., dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE). Further preferred emollients include hydrocarbons, e.g., mineral oil, undecane / tridecane (Cetiol® Ultimate), hydrogenated polyisobutene (Luvitol® Lite), substituted cyclohexane, isoparaffins, or paraffins.

[0040] Suitable Guerbet alcohols are fatty alcohol-based alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms (Eutanol® G, Eutanol® G16).

[0041] More preferably, in the context of the present invention, the base mixture b1) is C2-C 12 Esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched C6-C 22 Mono- and / or dicarbonates of fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons, linear C6-C6 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, C6-C 18 The present invention comprises at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid-based liquid mono / di / triglyceride mixture, a vegetable oil, and a Guerbet alcohol based on a fatty alcohol having 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0042] In particular, the base mixture b1) is an ester of a C4-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a linear or branched alcohol having 2-6 carbon atoms, linear or branched C6-C 12 Mono- and / or dicarbonates of fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons, linear C6-C6 18 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, C6-C 18 The present invention comprises at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid-based liquid mono / di / triglyceride mixture, a vegetable oil, and a Guerbet alcohol based on a fatty alcohol having 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0043] In particular, the recommended emollients in the base mixture are linear and / or branched C6-C6. 18 Fatty acids and linear C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or linear and branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, especially adipic acid esters, sebacate acid esters, or malate acid esters of linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, benzoic acid and linear and / or branched C6-C6 22 Esters with alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acids and linear C6-C6 22 It is an ester with fatty alcohols. Preferred examples include caprylic acid alkyl, lauryl lactate, and alkyl benzoate (C 12 -C 15 ), dibutyl adipate, and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0044] Suitable emollients for cosmetic formulations, such as skincare formulations, are C2-C 12 Esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as dibutyl adipate, linear or branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22 Mono- and / or dicarbonates of fatty alcohols, e.g., dicapryl carbonate; hydrocarbons, e.g., undecane / tridecane; linear C6-C6 22Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, such as ethylhexyl stearate, C6-C 18 These include fatty acid-based liquid mono / di / triglyceride mixtures, such as tri(caprylic / capric acid)glyceride; vegetable oils, such as shea butter; and Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol.

[0045] Examples of particularly suitable emollients include dibutyl adipate, dioctyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, octyldodecanol, undecane / tridecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and alkyl(C) benzoate. 12 -C 15 The ingredients are ethylhexyl stearate, myristyl myristate, glyceryl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl ether, octadecenyl docosenoate, rapeseed oil, malt oil, and olus oil.

[0046] Particularly suitable emollients include esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl carbonate, and diisopropyl sebacate, C6-C 10 Fatty acid-based triglycerides, C6-C 18 Fatty acid-based liquid mono / di / triglyceride mixtures, as well as linear C6-C6 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate.

[0047] surfactant The base mixture in b1) must also contain at least one surfactant, which may be nonionic, anionic, and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic.

[0048] In one embodiment, the recommended surfactant in the base mixture is at least one nonionic and / or anionic surfactant, particularly for cosmetic formulations applied to the skin.

[0049] In certain embodiments, the recommended surfactant in the base mixture is at least one nonionic surfactant, particularly for cosmetic formulations applied to the skin. In further specific embodiments, the recommended surfactant in the base mixture is at least one nonionic and one anionic surfactant, particularly for cosmetic formulations applied to the skin.

[0050] Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants are as follows: (1) Addition products of 2-50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1-20 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8-40 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 12-40 carbon atoms, and alkylphenols having 8-15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. (2) Addition product of 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol 12 ~C 18 Fatty acid mono- and diesters (3) Sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and their ethylene oxide addition products (4) Preferably alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and their ethoxylated analogs (5) Addition products of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, e.g., addition products with 2 to 15 moles or 40 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide (6) Polyols and especially polyglyceryl esters, such as polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate, polyglyceryl polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, or polyglyceryl dimerate. Equally preferred are mixtures of two or more compounds of these material classes. (7) Lecithin and phospholipids (8) Linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6-C 22 Partial esters or mixed esters based on fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g., sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g., methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), and polyglucosides (e.g., cellulose), such as glyceryl stearate citrate and glyceryl stearate lactate. (9) Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and their corresponding derivatives (referred to as silicone emulsifiers), (10) Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols, and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol, and / or (11) A mixed ester of a fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and sucrose.

[0051] Addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and fatty acids to sorbitan mono- and diesters, or to castor oil, are known commercial products. These are homologous mixtures, and their average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of quantitative amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and the substrate on which the addition reaction takes place. Depending on the degree of ethoxylation, the surfactant compounds can emulsify water in oil or oil in water. 12 / 18 Fatty acid mono- and diesters are also known as re-lipidating agents in cosmetic formulations.

[0052] Examples of suitable nonionic commercial surfactants include cetyl dimethicone copolyol (e.g., Abil EM-90), polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g., Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (e.g., Lameform TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (e.g., Isolan GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate (e.g., Isolan GO 33), diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (e.g., Isolan PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate (e.g., Tego Care 450), polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (e.g., Cera BelliNa), polyglyceryl-4 caprate (e.g., Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), and polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether (e.g., Chimexane). Polyglyceryl-3 distearate (e.g., Cremophor GS 32) and polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (e.g., Admul WOL 1403), glyceryl oleate (e.g., Monomuls 90-O 18), alkyl glucosides (e.g., Plantacare 1200, Emulgade PL 68 / 50, Montanov 68, Tego Care CG 90, Tego Glucosid L 55), methyl glucose isostearate (e.g., Tego Care IS), methyl glucose sesquistearate (Tego Care PS), sucrose esters (e.g., Crodesta F-10, F-20, F-50, F-70, F-110, F-160, SL-40, Emulgade® Sucro), ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil (e.g., Eumulgin® B1, B2, B3, BA25, L, CO40, CO60, O10, O30, S2, S20, Cremophor® WO7, Arlacel 989), PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g., Arlacel P135, Dehymuls LE), sorbitan esters, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof.Particularly effective mixtures consist of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and lauryl glucoside and glycerol (e.g., Eumulgin VL 75). Equally preferred are (diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate) polyglyceryl-4 (Isolan GPS) or diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (e.g., Isolan PDI).

[0053] Particularly advantageous nonionic surfactants are the reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol in the following homologous distributions (preferred amounts are shown in parentheses): Glycerol: 5-35 (15-30) by weight % Diglycerol: 15-40 (20-32) by weight % Triglycerol: 10-35 (15-25) by weight % Tetraglycerol: 5-20 (8-15) by weight % Pentacles: 2-10 (3-8) by weight % Oligoglycerols: up to 100% by weight

[0054] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the glyceryl ester used is a diester of polyhydroxystearic acid, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, which is sold, for example, by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH under the name Dehymuls® PGPH alone, or by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Deutschland GmbH under the name Eumulgin® VL75 (a blend with lauryl glucoside in a 1:1 weight ratio, O / W emulsifier) ​​or Dehymuls® SBL (W / O emulsifier).

[0055] Nonionic surfactant compounds from the group of alkyl mono- or alkyl oligoglycosides are particularly gentle on the skin and can therefore be used alone or in combination in the context of the present invention. C8~C 22Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known from the prior art. They are prepared by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. With respect to the glycosidic group, either monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar group is glycosidically bonded to a fatty alcohol, or oligomeric glycosides with an oligomerization degree of preferably up to about 8, where the oligomerization degree is a statistical mean based on the homolog distribution conventional for such industrial-grade products. Products available under the name Plantacare® have oligoglycosidically bonded C8-C2 oligoglycosides with an average oligomerization degree of 1-2. 16 -Contains alkyl groups. Acylglucamides derived from glucamine are also preferred.

[0056] Other suitable nonionic surfactant compounds include substances such as lecithin and phospholipids. An example of natural lecithin is cephalin, also known as phosphatidic acid, which is a derivative of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphate. In contrast, phospholipids are generally understood to mean mono- and preferably diesters (glycerol phosphate) of phosphate and glycerol, which are generally counted as one of the fats. Furthermore, sphingosine or sphingolipids are also possible.

[0057] Examples of possible nonionic surfactant compounds include silicone emulsifiers. These include, for example, alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyldimethicone copolyols, particularly those with the following chemical structures

[0058] [ka] [In the formula, X and Y are independently selected from H (hydrogen) and branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p is 0 to 200, q is 1 to 40, and r is 1 to 100] A group of compounds characterized by the above can be selected.

[0059] An example of a silicone emulsifier is a dimethicone copolyol emulsifier, which is sold by Evonik under the brand names AXIL® B8842, ABIL® B8843, ABIL® B8847, ABIL® B8851, ABIL® B8852, ABIL® B8863, ABIL® B8873, and ABIL® B88183. A further example is cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), which is sold by Evonik under the brand name ABIL® EM90. Another example is cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by Evonik under the brand names ABIL® EM97 and ABIL® WE09. Also suitable are lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone (lauryl methicone copolyol), available from Dow Corning Ltd. under the brand name Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid, and octyl dimethicone ethoxyglucoside from Wacker.

[0060] Similarly, zwitterionic, amphoteric, and / or cationic compounds are also suitable as surfactant compounds.

[0061] A surfactant compound that contains at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-) or -SO3(-) group within its molecule is called a zwitterionic compound.

[0062] Particularly preferred zwitterionic compounds are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, such as cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, such as cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline (each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group), as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. Preferred zwitterionic surfactant compounds are fatty acid amide derivatives known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0063] C8~C 18 A surfactant compound that contains at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in addition to an alkyl or acyl group, and that can form an internal salt, is called amphoteric. Examples of preferred amphoteric compounds include N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid, and alkylaminoacetic acid (each having approximately 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group).

[0064] Suitable cationic surfactant compounds are particularly quaternary ammonium compounds. Preferred are ammonium halides, especially ammonium chloride and ammonium bromide, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Furthermore, fatty amines, such as stearamidopropyldimethylamine (Dehyquart® S 18), and very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as dialkylammonium methosulfate and methylhydroxyalkyldialcoyl(dialkoyl)oxyalkylammonium methosulfate, commercially available under the trade name Stepantex®, and corresponding products in the Dehyquart® series, are suitable for use as cationic surfactant compounds. The term "ester quats" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. Similarly, quaternary protein hydrolysates are also suitable.

[0065] Also preferred are surfactant compounds having at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylic acid group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic acid group, or a phosphate group. Examples of preferred surfactant compounds, each in the form of a salt, include fatty acids, ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in an acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in an acyl group, acyl isethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in an acyl group, acyl glutamate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in an acyl group, mono- and dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in an alkyl group, and monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters of sulfosuccinates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in an alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alkylaryl sulfonates, and compounds having 8 to 24 carbon atoms These include linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, tartaric acid esters and citric acid esters, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates, as well as condensation products of C8-C30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids, and their derivatives called protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon®, Gluadin®, Hostapon® KCG, or Amisoft.

[0066] Typically, the salts are selected from sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group.

[0067] Preferred examples include sodium acyl glutamate, myristoyl sarcosine, lauroyl sarcosine TEA, sodium lauroyl sarcosine and sodium cocoyl sarcosine, sodium or ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and undecylenamide MEA-2Na sulfosuccinate, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, magnesium laureth sulfate, MIPA laureth sulfate, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and C 12-13 These include sodium pareth sulfate, sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium and TEA, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate, oleth-10 phosphate DEA and dilaureth-4 phosphate, sodium cocomonoglyceryl sulfate, sodium olefin (C12-14) sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate, 2TEA palmitoyl aspartate and sodium capryl / caprine glutamate, palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate, and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate.

[0068] Anionic compounds with excellent suitability include alkyl (alkenyl) polyglycol ether citrates, particularly those of formula (I)

[0069] [ka] [In the formula, R1, R2, and R3 are independently hydrogen or formula (II)R4(OCH2CHR5) n (In the formula, R4 is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. R5 is either a hydrogen or a methyl group. n is a number between 1 and 20, where at least one of the R1, R2, and R3 groups is not hydrogen. [It is the basis of] This is a mixture of mono-, di-, and triesters of citric acid and alkoxylated alcohols that conforms to the requirements.

[0070] Typical examples of the alcohol portion of esters include addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprin alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitrail alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as industrial-grade mixtures thereof, in an average of 1 to 20 moles, preferably 5 to 10 moles, of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.

[0071] In the context of the present invention, it is particularly preferable to use alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate salts, acyl isethionate salts, acyl glutamate salts, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkyl sulfate salts, alkyl phosphate salts, fatty acid salts, glyceryl stearate citrate esters, and alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrate as the anionic surfactant, and especially to use alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrate as described above.

[0072] In one embodiment of the present invention for the manufacture of a skin preparation, the surfactant present as the base mixture in b1) is a nonionic and / or anionic surfactant compound. Preferred nonionic surfactant compounds are from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids and alkyl (oligo) glucosides.

[0073] Preferred anionic surfactant compounds are those formed from alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrates, salts of acyl glutamate, salts of mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates having 12 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl phosphates, and citrate esters of glyceryl stearate and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate.

[0074] A preferred subtype is a mixture of two different nonionic surfactant compounds, preferably a subtype of a mixture of two different surfactant compounds selected from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and alkyl (oligo) glucosides.

[0075] Further preferred subtypes are mixtures comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably one anionic surfactant selected from the group of alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrates, salts of acyl glutamate, and salts of mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates having 12 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and one nonionic surfactant selected from the group of polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, and alkyl (oligo) glucosides.

[0076] In further embodiments of the present invention, the surfactant present in the base mixture is one or more cationic and / or zwitterionic substances, preferably the cationic and / or zwitterionic compounds already mentioned above, preferably quaternary ammonium compounds, dialkylammonium methosulfate, methylhydroxyalkyldialcoyl(dialkoyl)oxyalkylammonium methosulfate, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, fatty amines and betaines, particularly distearoylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearamidopropyldimethylamine. This embodiment is recommended for the manufacture of cosmetic formulations for hair.

[0077] Rheological modifier In the context of the present invention, it is essential that the base mixture in b1) contains or does not contain a rheological modifier. The rheological modifier may also be present in the formulation in different dispensing containers rather than in the base mixture, for example.

[0078] If present, the rheological modifier is preferably, - Anionic, nonionic, cationic, and / or zwitterionic polymers - Inorganic substances selected from the group consisting of fumed silica, bentonite, and hectorite (these may be chemically modified if applicable), and - Organic substances from the group consisting of fats, waxes, alcohols and / or hydrocarbons having a melting point above 45°C. Selected from the group formed by the above.

[0079] polymer Suitable rheological modifiers are natural or synthetic anionic, nonionic, cationic, and / or zwitterionic polymers.

[0080] Examples of naturally derived polymers are: Starch and modified starch, Quaternary collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® L / Gruenau), Polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, acacia gum, tara gum, cellulose gum, scleroglucan, glucomannan, guar gum, agar, alginate, pectin, Chemically modified polysaccharides, such as methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Modified guar polymers, for example, the Jaguar® brand from Solvay. It is a derivatized cellulose ether.

[0081] Suitable anionic polymers as rheological modifiers are polymers or copolymers containing carboxylic acid groups, in particular. Suitable carboxylic acid-containing polymers can be obtained, for example, by free radical polymerization of α,β-ethylenically unsaturated monomers m1). The monomers used here contain at least one free radical polymerizable α,β-ethylenically unsaturated double bond and at least one anionogenic group and / or anionic group per molecule. Suitable monomers are monoethylenically unsaturated mono- and dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 25, preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms, which can also be used in the form of their salts or anhydrides. Examples include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, glutaconic acid, aconitic acid, and fumaric acid. The monomers further include monoethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 10, preferably 4 to 6 carbon atoms, such as monoesters of maleic acid, such as monomethyl maleate. The monomers also include monoethylenically unsaturated sulfonic acids and phosphonic acids, such as vinyl sulfonic acid, allyl sulfonic acid, sulfoethyl acrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate, sulfopropyl acrylate, sulfopropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxy-3-acryloyloxypropyl sulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloyloxypropyl sulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, 1-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid, and allylphosphonic acid. The monomers also include salts of the above-mentioned acids, particularly sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts, as well as salts with the above-mentioned amines. The monomers may be used alone or in combination with each other.

[0082] The monomer is preferably selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, glutaconic acid, aconitic acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is a copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid having a molecular weight in the range of 10,000 to 10,000,000 daltons.

[0083] Furthermore, copolymers of the above-mentioned monomer and monomer m2 are preferred. Preferred monomers m2 include methyl (meth)acrylate, methyl ethyl acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl ethyl acrylate, n-octyl (meth)acrylate, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl (meth)acrylate, ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, n-nonyl (meth)acrylate, n-decyl (meth)acrylate, n-undecyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate, myristyl (meth)acrylate, and pentadecyl ( These include meth)acrylate, palmityl(meth)acrylate, heptadecyl(meth)acrylate, nonadecyl(meth)acrylate, arachinyl(meth)acrylate, behenyl(meth)acrylate, lignoserenyl(meth)acrylate, cerotinyl(meth)acrylate, merisinyl(meth)acrylate, palmitrail(meth)acrylate, oleyl(meth)acrylate, linoleyl(meth)acrylate, linolenyl(meth)acrylate, stearyl(meth)acrylate, lauryl(meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Suitable monomers m2) also include acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methyl(meth)acrylamide, N-ethyl(meth)acrylamide, N-propyl(meth)acrylamide, N-(n-butyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)(meth)acrylamide, N,N-dimethyl(meth)acrylamide, N,N-diethyl(meth)acrylamide, piperidinyl(meth)acrylamide and morpholinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-(n-octyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-ethylhexyl(meth)acrylamide, N-(n-nonyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-(n-decyl)(meth)acrylamide, and N-(n-undecyl)(meth)acrylamide. These are acrylamide, N-tridecyl(meth)acrylamide, N-myristyl(meth)acrylamide, N-pentadecyl(meth)acrylamide, N-palmityl(meth)acrylamide, N-heptadecyl(meth)acrylamide, N-nonadecyl(meth)acrylamide, N-arachinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-behenyl(meth)acrylamide, N-lignoserenyl(meth)acrylamide, N-serotinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-merisinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-palmitrail(meth)acrylamide, N-oleyl(meth)acrylamide, N-linoleyl(meth)acrylamide, N-linolenyl(meth)acrylamide, N-stearyl(meth)acrylamide, and N-lauryl(meth)acrylamide.

[0085] Preferred anionic polymers containing carboxylic acid groups are, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and their salts. These also include crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, which are available under the INCI name of carbomer. Such crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid are commercially available, for example, from Lubrizol under the name Carbopoll®. Equally preferred are hydrophobic-modified crosslinked and uncrosslinked polyacrylic copolymers, for example, Carbopol® Ultrez 21 from Lubrizol.

[0086] Further examples of suitable anionic polymers include copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polyurethanes, and polyureas. Particularly preferred polymers are copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylates in which the polyether chain is terminated with a C8-C30 alkyl group. These include, for example, the acrylate / beheneth-25-methacrylate copolymer available from Dow under the name Aculyn®. Other preferred polymers include copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with hydrophobic monomers, such as C4-C30 alkyl esters, C4-C30 alkyl vinyl esters, C4-C30 alkyl vinyl ethers, and hyaluronic acid.

[0087] Equally suitable as rheological modifiers are cationic polymers, such as quaternary ammonium compounds having INCI names like polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, or polyquaternium-86.

[0088] Furthermore, nonionic polymers, such as polyethylene glycol having an average molar mass of over 800 g / mol, or hydrophobic modified ethoxylated urethane polymers (abbreviated as HEUR), such as polyurethane-39, can also be used as rheology modifiers.

[0089] inorganic substance Furthermore, inorganic substances that can also function as rheological modifiers are selected from the group consisting of fumed silica, bentonite and hectorite, such as hydrophilic and hydrophobic fumed silica (these are particularly marketed under the trade name Aerosil®), as well as bentonite and hectorite or hydrophobic modified hectorite and bentonite, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, dimethyldioctylammonium hectorite or quaternium-18 hectorite, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium bentonite or quaternium-18 bentonite (these are available under the trade names Bentone®, Claytone®, and Tixogel®, for example).

[0090] organic matter Furthermore, organic substances that can also function as rheological modifiers are selected from the group of fats, waxes, alcohols, and / or hydrocarbons having a melting point above 45°C. Rheological modifiers may also be whole or partial wax esters, i.e., compounds with a melting point of 45°C, such as mono-, di-, and / or triglycerides, for example, Cutina® MD or Cutina® GMS (glyceryl stearate) products, commercially available from BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG. Other usable rheological modifiers include, for example, natural plant waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, wood wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, and animal waxes, such as beeswax.

[0091] Hydrogenated or cured waxes, such as mineral waxes, e.g., ceresin and ozokerite, or petrochemical waxes, e.g., petrolatum, paraffin wax and microwax, may also be used. Available rheological modifiers also include chemically modified waxes, e.g., montan ester wax, Sasol wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax. Synthetic waxes usable according to the present invention include, for example, wax-like polyalkylene wax and polyethylene glycol wax.

[0092] Further usable waxes include aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g., 12-hydroxystearic acid) and esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alcohols. Examples of such esters include alkyl stearate (C16-C40), alkyl stearate (C20-C40) (e.g., Kesterwachs K82H), and C of dimeric acids. 20 ~C 40 -Dialkyl ester, alkyl (C18-38) hydroxystearoyl stearate or alkyl (C) erucate 20 -C 40 ) is also preferable. 30 ~C 50 - Alkyl beeswax, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol di(12-hydroxystearate), stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate, stearyl behenate, cetearyl behenate, glyceryl mono / dilaurate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate or glyceryl stearate, triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid (Cutina® HR) or glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tribehenate (e.g., Syncrowax® HRC), glyceryl tripalmitate, or a triglyceride mixture known as Syncrowax® HGLC.

[0093] The rheological modifiers present may also be fatty alcohols, hydrolyzed fatty acids, and / or glyceryl mono-, di-, and / or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters. Typical examples include cetyl alcohol (Lanette® 16), palmoleil alcohol, stearyl alcohol (Lanette® 18), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® 0), isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroseryl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol (Lanette® 22), erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as industrial-grade mixtures thereof, which can be obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of industrial-grade methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo-synthesis, and as monomer fractions in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol. Examples of glyceryl esters include glyceryl laurate, e.g., Monomuls® 90-L-12; glyceryl oleate, e.g., Monomuls® 90-O 18; glyceryl stearate, e.g., Cutina® GMS V and Cutina® GMS V / MB; glycol distearate, e.g., Cutina® AGS; sorbitan stearate, e.g., Dehymuls® SMS and Cutina® HVG.

[0094] Particularly preferred rheological modifiers from the polymer group are selected from the group formed by anionic, nonionic, or cationic synthetic and / or natural polymers, particularly polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, and polysaccharides.

[0095] Among the group of organic substances, the rheological modifiers are more preferably fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di-, and / or tri-fatty acid esters, and wax esters.

[0096] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the base mixture in b1) comprises a combination of various rheological modifiers, one of which is selected from a defined group of inorganic substances formed by optionally chemically modified hectorite and bentonite. Such combinations can improve the thermal and long-term stability of both the base mixture and the cosmetic formulation produced.

[0097] Preferred combinations of rheological modifiers are mixtures of hectorite and / or bentonite, which may optionally be hydrophobically modified, with anionic, nonionic, or cationic synthetic and / or natural polymers, or mixtures of hectorite and / or bentonite, which may optionally be hydrophobicly modified, with organic substances selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di-, and / or tri-fatty acid esters, and wax esters.

[0098] Particularly preferred combinations of rheological modifiers are mixtures of hectorite and / or bentonite, optionally hydrophobically modified polymers selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, and polysaccharides; and mixtures of hectorite and / or bentonite, optionally hydrophobically modified organic substances selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters, and wax esters.

[0099] More preferably, the rheological modifier is selected from the group of inorganic substances selected from the group of natural or synthetic-based anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers, fumed silica, bentonite and hectorite, and organic substances selected from the group of fats, waxes, alcohols and / or hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols and polysaccharides, particularly from the group of fatty alcohols and polysaccharides, having a melting point above 45°C.

[0100] UV light protection filter (also called UV filter) A suitable UV light protection filter is an organic substance that is liquid or crystalline at room temperature (a light protection filter) that can absorb ultraviolet light and release the absorbed energy again in the form of longer wavelength radiation, such as heat. The UV filter may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Typical examples of oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV-A / B filters are: 3-Benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidenenor camphor (Mexoryl SDS20) and their derivatives, for example, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP0693471B1; 3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methyl sulfate (Mexoryl SO); N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide polymer (Mexoryl SW); 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol (Mexoryl XL); 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate (Uvinul A Plus); Cinnamic acid esters, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); Salicylic acid esters, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris[p-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine (Uvinul T150) as described in EP0818450A1, or bis(2-ethylhexyl)4,4'-[(6-[4-((1,1-dimethylethyl)aminocarbonyl)phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]benzoate (Uvasorb® HEB); 2,2-(methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol)(Tinosorb M); 2,4-Bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb S); Propane-1,3-dione, e.g., 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione; Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives as described in EP0694521B1; Dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate (Parsol SLX) Includes.

[0101] Useful water-soluble UV filters are 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucanmonium salts; 2,2-(1,4-phenylene)bis(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP); Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimetine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX); 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one and salt (Mexoryl SL); Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and their salts. Includes.

[0102] Useful organic particulate UV filters are Methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, Tris-biphenyltriazine, Phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine Includes.

[0103] In one embodiment, the use of water-dispersible UV filters, such as methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyltriazine, phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, is preferred. Particularly preferred is the use of water-dispersible UV filters selected from the group consisting of methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyltriazine, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine.

[0104] Useful typical UVA filters include, in particular, benzoylmethane derivatives, such as 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, and the enamine compounds described in DE19712033A1 (BASF), as well as 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl benzoate (Uvinul® A plus).

[0105] Naturally, UVA and UVB filters can also be used in the mixture. Particularly advantageous combinations consist of benzoylmethane derivatives combined with cinnamic acid esters, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, such as 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl cinnamate (octocrylene). This type of combination is advantageously combined with water-soluble filters, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucanmonium salts.

[0106] Suitable UV light protection filters are, in particular, substances approved in accordance with Annex VII of the Commission Directive expressly referenced herein (version: Commission Directive 2005 / 9 / EC of January 28, 2005, amending Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC with respect to cosmetics for the purpose of adapting Annex VII to technological advances). Very particularly suitable UV light protection filters are substances approved in accordance with Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council with respect to cosmetics, with respect to cosmetics, as expressly referenced.

[0107] The base mixture in b1) is preferably tris(2-ethylhexyl)4,4',4"-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tribenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone; Uvinul T150), bis(2-ethylhexyl)4,4'-{[6-({4-[(2-methyl-2-propanyl)carbamoyl]phenyl}amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]diimino}dibenzoate (INCI: diethylhexylbutamide triazone; Uvasorb HEB), 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; Tinosorb The UV filter preferably comprises at least one triazine derivative selected from the group consisting of S) and mixtures thereof, and preferably at least one UV-A filter selected from the group consisting of diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate (DHHB), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), and mixtures thereof.

[0108] In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, specifically finely dispersed metal oxides and salts, are also useful for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, and cerium, and mixtures thereof. The salts used may be silicates (talc), barium sulfate, or zinc stearate. The oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skincare and skin protection emulsions, as well as for decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably 5–50 nm, and particularly 15–30 nm. They are spherical in shape, but it is also possible to use particles that are elliptical or deviate from a spherical configuration in some other ways. The pigments may also be surface-treated, i.e., hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Typical examples include coated titanium dioxide, such as T805 titanium dioxide (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO, and Eusolex® TS (Merck). Typical examples include zinc oxide, such as zinc oxide neutral, zinc oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are silicones, particularly trialkoxyoctylsilane or simethicone. In sunscreen compositions, the use of so-called micropigments or nanopigments is preferred. The use of finely milled zinc oxide is preferred. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the reviews by P. Finkel in SOFW-Journal 122, 8 / 1996, pp. 543-548, and in Parf. Kosm. Vol. 80, No. 3 / 1999, pp. 10-16.

[0109] These UV light protection filters are commercially available under the following product names, for example: NeoHeliopan(registered trademark) MBC (INCI: 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Manufacturer: Symrise); NeoHeliopan(registered trademark) BB (INCI: benzophenone-3; Manufacturer: Symrise); Parsol(registered trademark) 1789 (INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Manufacturer: Hoffmann-La Roche (Givaudan); Tinosorb(registered trademark) S (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine); Tinosorb(registered trademark) M (INCI: methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol); Manufacturer: BASF; Uvasorb(registered trademark) HEB (INCI: diethylhexylbutamide triazone; Manufacturer: 3V Inc.); Uvinul(registered trademark) T150 (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone; Manufacturer: BASF AG); Uvinul(registered trademark) A plus (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate; Manufacturer: BASF AG; Mexoryl(registered trademark)SO: 3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methyl sulfate, INCI: camphabenzalkonium methosulfate; Mexoryl(registered trademark)SX: 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimetine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid), CTFA: INCI terephthalylidene dicamphasulfonic acid; Mexoryl(registered trademark)SL: 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one, INCI benzylidenecamphasulfonic acid; Mexoryl(registered trademark)SW: polymer of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide, INCI Polyacrylamide methylbenzylidene camphor; Mexoryl® SL: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol; INCI: Drometrizole trisiloxane; Parsol® SLX: Dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate, INCI Polysilicone-15.

[0110] Further examples include pigment light filters, such as inorganic pigment light filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and / or organic pigment light filters, such as methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M).

[0111] The use of organic UV filters is particularly preferable.

[0112] Amount in the base mixture within b1) In the context of the present invention, the base mixture in b1) comprises at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one UV filter, and at least one rheological modifier, or does not comprise a rheological modifier, and the weight ratio of emollient to surfactant is preferably in the range of 1:4 to 25:1, more preferably in the range of 1:2 to 25:1. In one embodiment of the present invention, the base mixture for the production of a skin formulation in b1) comprises a weight ratio of emollient to surfactant preferably in the range of 1:1 to 25:1, more preferably 1.5:1 to 12:1, more preferably 2:1 to 10:1, and particularly 3:1 to 8:1.

[0113] It is particularly preferable that the base mixture in b1) has a weight ratio of emollient:surfactant + rheology modifier in the range of 1:10 to 10:1. In one embodiment of the present invention, the base mixture for the production of a skin preparation in b1) preferably contains a weight ratio of emollient:surfactant + rheology modifier in the range of 1:2 to 8:1, more preferably in the range of 1:1 to 7:1, and particularly in the range of 2:1 to 7:1.

[0114] In the base mixture in b1), it is particularly preferable if a weight ratio of emollient to UV filter exists in the range of 1:5 to 10:1, more preferably 1:2 to 8:1, even more preferably 1:1.5 to 6:1, and especially 1:1 to 4:1.

[0115] In the base mixture in b1), it is particularly preferable if there is a weight ratio of UV filter to surfactant in the range of 1:5 to 10:1, more preferably 1:2 to 8:1, even more preferably 1:1 to 6:1, and especially 1.5:1 to 5:1.

[0116] Further cosmetic ingredients The base mixture in b1) may contain further cosmetic ingredients. In the context of the present invention, cosmetic ingredients may be cosmetic auxiliaries and additives or other active cosmetic ingredients.

[0117] The base mixture in b1) preferably includes auxiliary agents and additives conventionally used in cosmetics, such as water, stabilizers, solvents, solubilizers, preservatives, neutralizing agents and buffers, complexing agents, etc.

[0118] Cosmetic auxiliary agents and additives Neutralizing agent and buffering agent Suitable neutralizing agents include compatible acids or bases known in the cosmetics industry, which are also listed in the Cosmetics Directive. Buffers ensure the pH stability of cosmetic formulations. Citrate buffers, lactic acid buffers, and phosphate buffers are the most commonly used.

[0119] Preservatives Suitable preservatives include, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, phenoxyethanol, a combination of phenoxyethanol and methyldibromoglutaronitrile, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, benzoic acid and its salts, benzyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, urea condensates, p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters, dehydroacetic acid, methylthiazolinone or sorbic acid and its salts, and silver complexes known as Surfacine®, as well as further classes of substances listed in Annex 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetic Regulations. In addition, substances that function as preservatives, such as ethylhexylglycerin and caprylyl glycol, and polyols or alcohols, such as isopropyl alcohol, propanediol, phenylpropanol, phenethyl alcohol and undecyl alcohol, and silver complexes known as Surfacine® are used. Furthermore, 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 8 carbon atoms are preferred as preservatives, as described in WO07 / 048757.

[0120] Preservatives advantageous in the context of the present invention include, for example, formaldehyde-releasing substances (e.g., DMDM ​​hydantoin, commercially available under the trademark Glydant® (Lonza)), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (e.g., Glycacil-L®, Glycacil-S® (Lonza), Dekaben® LMB (Jan Dekker)), parabens (alkyl p-hydroxybenzoates, e.g., methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and / or butylparabens), dehydroacetic acid (Euxyl® K702 (Schulke & Mayr)), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, and benzoic acid). It is also advantageous to use preservatives such as octoxyglycerin, glycine, and soybeans.

[0121] The table below outlines the possible preservatives that are suitable.

[0122] [Table 1]

[0123] Equally advantageous are preservatives or preservative aids commonly used in cosmetics, such as dibromodicyabutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutalonitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, and salicylates.

[0124] Particularly preferred preservatives are sodium benzoate, parabens (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and / or butylparaben), and / or phenoxyethanol.

[0125] Complexing agent Suitable complexing agents are salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, salts of nitrilotriacetic acid, salts of iminodisuccinic acid, or phosphates.

[0126] Stabilizer The stabilizers used may be metal salts of fatty acids, such as magnesium stearate / ricinoleate, aluminum stearate / ricinoleate, and / or zinc stearate / ricinoleate, to improve emulsion stability, or compounds such as tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate as light stabilizers to prevent discoloration or changes in odor of the formulation.

[0127] Solubilizer The solubilizers used may be, for example, ethylene oxide adducts having an ethoxylation level of 20 to 60 for castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, or ethylene oxide adducts and / or propylene oxide adducts having 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 20 moles of propylene oxide units for fatty alcohols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms or fatty acids having 12 to 40 carbon atoms or alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Equally preferred are ethylene oxide adducts of 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide units for C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of glycerol or polyglycerol or sorbitan. Preferred solubilizers are Eumulgin® HRE40 (INCI: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil), Eumulgin® HRE60 (INCI: PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil), Eumulgin® L (INCI: PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether), and Eumulgin® SML20 (INCI: polysorbate-20).

[0128] solvent Suitable solvents are alcohols, such as ethanol, propanediol, or glycerol.

[0129] water In the context of the present invention, water may also be present as a component in the base mixture in b1). In this specification, water is expressly excluded from the term “solvent” and is not included therein. Furthermore, the amount of water is expressly stated herein.

[0130] Active cosmetic ingredients The base mixture in b1) may already contain active cosmetic ingredients used for personalizing cosmetic formulations, such as active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insecticides, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrances, dyes, and moisturizers. This is advantageous, for example, when a very large amount of active cosmetic ingredients should be present in the cosmetic formulation according to the user's requirements or desired effect.

[0131] It is also possible to use antioxidant-type secondary light stabilizers that inhibit the photochemical chain reaction induced when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples include amino acids (e.g., glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g., urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides (e.g., D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine) and their derivatives (e.g., anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g., α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other chlorogenic acids. Alls (e.g., thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and very low tolerance doses (e.g., pmol) Sulfoximine compounds (e.g., butionine sulfoximine, homocysteine ​​sulfoximine, butionine sulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptahionine sulfoximine) in ~mol / kg, as well as (metal) chelating agents (e.g., α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acids, bile extract, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g., gamma-) Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherol and its derivatives (e.g., vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and its derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and benzoin resin coniferyl benzoate, rutic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfrilliliden glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene,These include butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g., ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its derivatives (e.g., selenomethionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g., stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide), and derivatives of these specific active ingredients (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides, and lipids) suitable according to the present invention.

[0132] Self-tanning products Self-tanning agents are understood to be substances that cause skin browning. Examples include dihydroxyacetone, erythritolose, and alpha,beta-unsaturated aldehydes, which react with amino acids in the skin in the form of a Maillard reaction to produce coloring compounds. Further useful active ingredients in self-tanning agents include natural or synthetic ketols or aldols. Examples of preferred active ingredients include dihydroxyacetone, erythritolose, glycerol aldehyde, alloxane, hydroxymethylglyoxal, gamma-dialdehyde, 6-ald-D-fructose, ninhydrin, and meso-tartaraldehyde. Preferred self-tanning agents are particularly dihydroxyacetone and / or erythritolose.

[0133] Active biological components The active bio-components present may be naturally derived active ingredients, preferably those that improve skin properties, such as tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucan, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as aloe vera, peanut extract, Bambara bean extract, and vitamin complexes.

[0134] The following active biological components are suitable as moisturizers for the skin: AMC® Advanced Moisture Complex NP (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sodium PCA (and) Urea (and) Trehalose (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Polyquaternium-51 (and) Triacetin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate); Hyalurosmooth® LS8998 (INCI: Water (and) Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide); Hyalurosmooth® LS8997 (INCI: Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide); Irwinol® (INCI: Octyldodecanol (and) Irvingia Gabonensis (kernel lipid and hydrogenated cocoglycerides); Lipofructyl® Argan (INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil); Melhydran® (INCI: water and butylene glycol and honey extract and glycerin and urea and sodium lactate and arginine HCl and lysine HCl and ornithine HCl); Oligolin® (INCI: hydrolyzed flaxseed extract); PatcH2O® (INCI: water and glycerin and trehalose and urea and serine and pentylene glycol) Glyceryl polyacrylate (and) alginate (and) caprylyl glycol (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) pullulan (and) disodium phosphate (and) potassium phosphate); Relipidium (registered trademark) (INCI: hydrolyzed yeast protein (and) butylene glycol (and) pentylene glycol); Sphingoceryl (registered trademark) VEG (INCI: octyldodecanol (and) hydrogenated cocoglycerides (and) sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed extract).

[0135] The following active biological components are suitable as anti-aging agents: AH-Care(registered trademark) (INCI: water (and) lactic acid (and) arginine); Argassential(registered trademark) (INCI: Argania spinosa fruit extract (and) dicaprylyl ether (and) sorbitol (and) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (and) lauryl glucoside (and) glycerin (and) water); Argatensyl(registered trademark) (INCI: Argania spinosa kernel extract (and) sodium cocoyl glutamate); Collalift(registered trademark) 18 (INCI: glycerin (and) water (and) Khaya senegalensis bark extract (and) maltodextrin); Deliner(registered trademark) (INCI: water (and) butylene glycol (and) pentylene glycol (and) corn (Zea Mays kernel extract (and) xanthan gum; Dermagenist (registered trademark) (INCI: maltodextrin (and) marjoram extract); Dermican (registered trademark) LS9837 (INCI: glycerin (and) water (and) acetyl tetrapeptide-9); Dermican (registered trademark) LS9838 (INCI: mannitol (and) acetyl tetrapeptide-9); Elestan (registered trademark) LS9913 (INCI: glycerin (and) Manilkara multinervis leaf extract (and) water); Elestan (registered trademark) LS 9879 (INCI: Manilkara multinervis leaf extract (and) maltodextrin); Eperuline (registered trademark) (INCI: maltodextrin (and) Eperua afalcata (Eperua Falcata bark extract; Epigenist (registered trademark) (INCI: maltodextrin and Bambara bean (Voandzeia subterranea) seed extract);Hyalufix® (INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Alpinia Galanga Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, and Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), Hyaluronic Filling Spheres® (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Trihydroxystearin, and Sodium Hyaluronate); Linefactor® C (INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, and Xanthan Gum); Lox-Age® (INCI: Water, Cichorium Intybus leaf extract (and) hexylene glycol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) xanthan gum; Lys'lastine® V (INCI: water (and) butylene glycol (and) dill (Peucedanum Graveolens) extract (and) pentylene glycol (and) xanthan gum); Myoxinol® (INCI: hydrolyzed okra (Hibiscus Esculentus) extract (and) dextrin); Neurobiox® (INCI: water (and) butylene glycol (and) pentylene glycol (and) yarrow (Achillea Millefolium) extract (and) xanthan gum); Oligolin® (INCI: hydrolyzed flaxseed extract); Perlaura® (INCI: water (and) Polygonum cuspidatum) Bistorta root extract (and) hexylene glycol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) xanthan gum; Phytokine (registered trademark) (INCI: hydrogenated soy protein (and) butylene glycol (and) pentylene glycol (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol); Proteasyl (registered trademark) LS9818 (INCI: water (and) glycerin (and) pea (Pisum Sativum) extract);Proteasyl® LS8951 (INCI: Pisum Sativum extract and cyclodextrin); Shadownyl® (INCI: Water and Fucus Vesiculosus extract and hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum); Slim-Excess® (INCI: Water and Butylene Glycol and Pentylene Glycol and Sodium Chloride and Hydrolyzed Rhodophycea Extract and xanthan gum); Speci'Men® (INCI: Glycerin and Water and Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata extract); Sqisandryl® (INCI: Schizandra Chinensis fruit extract); Syniorage® (INCI: Mannitol and acetyl tetrapeptide-11); Ultra Filling Sphreres® (INCI: Ethylhexyl palmitate (and) trihydroxystearin (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) glucomannan); Vegeseryl® HGP (INCI: Water (and) soy protein (and) sodium cocoyl glutamate (and) ethylhexylglycerin); Vit-A-Like® LS9793 (INCI: Water (and) Vigna Aconitifolia seed extract (and) sodium cocoyl glutamate); Vit-A-Like® LS9898 (INCI: Vigna Aconitifolia seed extract (and) maltodextrin); X-pressin® R (INCI: Water (and) papain (and) carbomer (and) caprylyl glycol (and) algin).

[0136] Suitable active bio-ingredients for improving skin (skin perfection) include: AH-Care® (INCI: water, lactic acid, and arginine); Beta-Hydroxyde® ACSD (INCI: salicylic acid and gum arabic); Betapur® (INCI: water, butylene glycol, and Peumus Boldus leaf extract, and pentylene glycol and xanthan gum); Biophytex® (INCI: water, butylene glycol, panthenol, escin, and glycerin, and Ruscus Aculeatus root extract, and ammonium glycyrrhizate, and Centella Asiatica leaf extract, and hydrolyzed yeast protein, and Calendula. (Officinalis) flower extract; Lox-Age (registered trademark) (INCI: water (and) Cichorium Intybus leaf extract (and) hexylene glycol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) xanthan gum); Mat-XS (registered trademark) Clinical (INCI: water (and) butylene glycol (and) pentylene glycol (and) sarcosine (and) xanthan gum); Neurobiox (registered trademark) (INCI: water (and) butylene glycol (and) pentylene glycol (and) yarrow extract (and) xanthan gum; X-pressin (registered trademark) C (INCI: water (and) papain (and) carbomer (and) caprylyl glycol (and) algin).

[0137] Moisturizer Moisturizers can bind to water and therefore prevent evaporation.

[0138] Suitable humectants are polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, such as glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, or xylitol.

[0139] insect repellent Examples of useful insect repellents include N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol, or ethyl 3-(Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino)propionate (marketed by Merck KGaA under the name Insect Repellent® 3535), and butylacetylaminopropionate.

[0140] Tyrosine inhibitors Useful tyrosine inhibitors that prevent melanin formation and have been found to have depigmenting properties include arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid, and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

[0141] perfume oil The fragrance oil contains a mixture of natural and synthetic odorants. Natural odorants include extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calamus), woods (pine, sandalwood, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needle-like leaves and branches (spruce, fir, pine, low pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax). Equally suitable are animal raw materials, such as musk and beaver. Typical synthetic odorant compounds are ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol, and hydrocarbon type products. Examples of ester-type odorant compounds include benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styraryl propionate, and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether; aldehydes include, for example, linear alcanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial, and burgeonal; ketones include, for example, ionone, α-isomethylionone, and methylcedyl ketone; alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, and terpineol; and hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. However, the use of mixtures of different odorants that together produce a pleasant fragrance is preferred.In most cases, relatively low-volatility essential oils used as fragrance components are also suitable as perfumed oils, such as sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, peppermint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil, and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenolate, lilial, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavender oil, sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix It is preferable to use Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl, and floramate individually or in mixtures. Examples of suitable aromas include peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol, etc.

[0142] film-forming agent Suitable film-forming agents include, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternary chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and similar compounds.

[0143] dye The dyes that can be used are substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes, as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" (Cosmetic Colorants) from the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft (German Society for Dye Research), Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples include cochineal red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI 42051), indigotine (CI 73015), chlorophyllin (CI 75810), quinoline yellow (CI 47005), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800), and madder lake (CI 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are typically used at concentrations of 0.001% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total mixture.

[0144] Effective pigments Pigments may be present. Preferred particle sizes are 0.01 to 200 μm, particularly 0.02 to 150 μm, and more preferably 0.05 to 100 μm.

[0145] The pigment is a colorant that is virtually insoluble in the coating medium, and may be an inorganic pigment or an organic pigment. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible. Inorganic pigments are preferred.

[0146] The advantages of inorganic pigments are their excellent light stability, weather resistance, and thermal stability. Inorganic pigments may be of natural origin and can be prepared from, for example, chalk, ochre, amber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite. The pigments may be white pigments, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; black pigments, such as black iron oxide; colored pigments, such as ultramarine or red iron oxide; pearlescent pigments; metallic effect pigments; pearlescent pigments; and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, preferably at least one pigment is a non-white colored pigment.

[0147] Suitable materials include metal oxides, hydroxides and hydrated oxides, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates, and metals themselves (bronze pigments). Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide (CI77891), black iron oxide (CI77499), yellow iron oxide (CI77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI77491), manganese violet (CI77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), Prussian blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI77510), and carmine (cochineal).

[0148] Particularly preferred are mica-based or borosilicate-based pearlescent and colored pigments, which are coated with metal oxides or metal oxychlorides, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, and, where appropriate, with further colorants, such as iron oxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine, carmine, etc., and the color can be determined by varying the thickness of the coating. Such pigments are sold, for example, by Merck under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron®, or by BASF under the trade names Reflecks®, Cloisonne®, Timica®, Chione®, Pearl-Glo® or Bi-Lite®.

[0149] Organic pigments include, for example, natural pigments such as sepia, oryzae, bone char, Cassel brown, indigo, chlorophyll, and other plant pigments.

[0150] Examples of synthetic organic pigments include azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazines, quinacridones, phthalocyanines, isoindolinones, perylenes and perinones, metal complexes, alkali blues and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.

[0151] Particularly preferred are, for example, silica, silicates, aluminates, alumina, mica, salts, especially organometallic salts, metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, which may be combined with fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments as needed.

[0152] Sensory additive Examples of suitable sensory additives include aluminum starch octenyl succinate, tapoca, dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer, or polymethylsilsesquioxane.

[0153] Coolant Examples of suitable coolants include ethanol, menthol, and / or camphor.

[0154] Active cosmetic ingredients may be present in the base mixture in b1) in an amount of 0% to 50% by weight, preferably up to 30% by weight, and particularly up to 20% by weight, calculated as active substances. Cosmetic auxiliaries and additives that do not contain water may be present in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight. Water may be present in the base mixture in an amount of 0% to 75% by weight, preferably up to 0.5% to 70% by weight, depending on the application of the cosmetic.

[0155] In one embodiment, b1) is preferably 0.5% to 75% by weight of at least one emollient, 1.0% to 30% by weight of at least one surfactant, 1.5% to 30% by weight of at least one rheological modifier, At least one type of UV filter, ranging from 0% to 50% by weight. Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, 0% to 90% by weight of water This is contained under the condition that all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0156] Preferably, a base mixture i) containing at least one rheological modifier is manufactured using a solid oil mixture or preemulsion, or preferably a base mixture ii) containing no rheological modifier is manufactured using a liquid oil mixture. More preferably, a base mixture containing at least one rheological modifier is manufactured using a preemulsion containing at least one surfactant and at least one rheological modifier. In another preferred embodiment, a base mixture containing at least one rheological modifier is manufactured using a solid oil mixture containing at least one surfactant and at least one rheological modifier. In a further preferred embodiment, a base mixture containing no rheological modifier is manufactured using a liquid oil mixture containing at least one surfactant.

[0157] Preferably, the base mixture in b1) is based on the total weight of the base mixture in each case. At least one emollient in an amount of 10% to 60% by weight, preferably 25% to 58% by weight, 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 18% by weight, of at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic and / or anionic surfactant. At least one rheological modifier in an amount of 0% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 16% by weight, At least one UV filter in an amount of 5% to 50% by weight, preferably 10% to 40% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries or additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, and 0% to 50% by weight, preferably 0% to 35% by weight of water Preferably, this is included under conditions where all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0158] Advantageously, the base mixture in b1) 10% to 60% by weight of skin emollient, 3% to 30% by weight of surfactant, preferably anionic and nonionic surfactants. 1.5% to 8% by weight of rheological modifiers, UV filter with 5% to 50% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, 0% to 40% by weight of water This is contained under the condition that all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0159] Advantageously, the base mixture in b1) is based on the total weight of the base mixture in each case. At least one emollient in an amount of 20% to 50% by weight, preferably 25% to 45% by weight, 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, of at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant. 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 4% by weight, at least one rheological modifier, At least one UV filter in an amount of 10% to 30% by weight, preferably 12% to 25% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, and 1% to 45% by weight, preferably 5% to 40% by weight of water Preferably, this is included under conditions where all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0160] In this context, the base mixture in b1) is preferably produced via a preemulsifier. In producing the preemulsifier, it is preferable to blend part A, which contains at least one UV filter, with at least one emollient. Separately, part B is prepared, which contains at least one surfactant, at least one rheological modifier, and water. Parts A and B are combined to obtain the base mixture in b1). The base mixture produced using the preemulsifier is particularly suitable for producing sunscreens with moderate viscosity, such as lotions.

[0161] Advantageously, the base mixture in b1) is based on the total weight of the base mixture in each case. At least one emollient in an amount of 40% to 70% by weight, preferably 45% to 60% by weight, 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, of at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic and / or anionic surfactant. At least one rheological modifier in an amount of 3% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, At least one UV filter in a quantity of 12% to 35% by weight, preferably 15% to 30% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, and 0% to 40% by weight, preferably 0% to 35% by weight of water Preferably, this is included under conditions where all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0162] In this context, the base mixture in b1) is preferably produced via a solid oil mixture. In producing the solid oil mixture, it is preferable to blend part A, which contains at least one UV filter, with at least one emollient. Separately, part B is prepared, which contains at least one surfactant, at least one rheological modifier, and at least one emollient. Parts A and B are combined to obtain the base mixture in b1). The base mixture produced using the solid oil mixture is particularly suitable for producing sunscreens, such as creams, that have relatively high viscosity.

[0163] In the context of the present invention, the solid oil mixture has a melting point of 35°C or higher, preferably above 45°C. More preferably, the solid oil mixture has a melting point of 35 to 100°C, particularly 45 to 90°C.

[0164] In the context of the present invention, the solid oil mixture is first heated before being poured into the mixing device a) in order to ensure sufficient fluidity. In this context, the base mixture in b1) is preferably heated to over 40°C, more preferably over 50°C, and particularly over 60°C. Most preferably, the base mixture in b1) is heated to 40-120°C, more preferably 50-100°C, and particularly 60-90°C.

[0165] Advantageously, the base mixture in b1) is based on the total weight of the base mixture in each case. At least one emollient in an amount of 40% to 75% by weight, preferably 45% to 65% by weight, 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight, of at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant. 0% by weight rheological modifier, At least one UV filter in an amount of 15% to 50% by weight, preferably 30% to 40% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, and 0% to 40% by weight, preferably 0% to 35% by weight of water Preferably, this is included under conditions where all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0166] In this context, the base mixture in b1) is preferably produced via a liquid oil mixture. In producing the liquid oil mixture, it is preferable to blend part A, which contains at least one UV filter, with at least one emollient. Separately, part B, which contains at least one surfactant, is produced. Parts A and B are combined to obtain the base mixture in b1). The base mixture produced using the liquid oil mixture is particularly suitable for producing sunscreens having low viscosity, such as fluids.

[0167] In the context of the present invention, the liquid oil mixture has a melting point of less than 35°C, preferably less than 20°C. More preferably, the liquid oil mixture has a melting point of -10 to less than 35°C, particularly 5 to 30°C.

[0168] Particularly preferred is the base mixture for the production of the sunscreen in b1), 10% to 60% by weight of linear and / or branched C6-C6 18 Fatty acids and linear C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or linear and branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, especially adipic acid, sebacate ester or malate ester of linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, benzoic acid and linear and / or branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22 Esters with alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acids and linear C6-C6 22 At least one emollient selected from the group formed by esterification with fatty alcohols, An anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyethylene glycol ether citrate, acyl glutamate salts, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts having 12-24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkyl sulfate and alkyl phosphate salts, and citrate esters of glyceryl stearate, in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight. 1% to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants, preferably from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids and alkyl (oligo) glucosides. 1.5% to 8% by weight of a rheological modifier selected from the group formed by 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably hydrophobically modified hectorite and / or bentonite, polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyacrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, polysaccharides, fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters, 5% to 50% by weight UV filter Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, 0% to 20% by weight of water This is contained under the condition that the total amount of anionic and nonionic surfactants is between 3% and 30% by weight, and all constituent materials total 100% by weight.

[0169] Most preferably, the base mixture for the production of the sunscreen in b1) is 10% to 60% by weight of linear and / or branched C6-C6 18 Fatty acids and linear C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or linear and branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22Fatty alcohol carbonates, especially adipic acid esters, sebacate acid esters, or malate acid esters of linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, C6-C 18 Liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on fatty acids, and linear C6-C6 compounds. 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 At least one emollient selected from the group formed by esterification with fatty alcohols, 1% to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants, preferably from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids and alkyl (oligo) glucosides. A rheological modifier selected from the group consisting of 0% to 16% by weight, preferably hydrophobically modified hectorite and / or bentonite, polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyacrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, polysaccharides, fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters, At least one type of UV filter in a concentration of 5% to 50% by weight. Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, 0% to 35% by weight of water This is contained under the condition that all constituent materials together make up 100% by weight.

[0170] Most preferably, the base mixture for the production of the sunscreen in b1) is 10% to 60% by weight of linear and / or branched C6-C6 18 Fatty acids and linear C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or linear and branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22Fatty alcohol carbonates, especially adipic acid, sebacate acid ester or malate ester of linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, C6-C 18 Liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on fatty acids, and linear C6-C6 compounds. 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 At least one emollient selected from the group formed by esterification with fatty alcohols, An anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyethylene glycol ether citrate, acyl glutamate salts, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts having 12-24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkyl sulfate and alkyl phosphate salts, and citrate esters of glyceryl stearate, in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight. 1% to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants, preferably from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids and alkyl (oligo) glucosides. A rheological modifier selected from the group consisting of 0% to 10% by weight, preferably hydrophobically modified hectorite and / or bentonite, polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyacrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, polysaccharides, fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters, At least one type of UV filter in a quantity of 5% to 50% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, 0% to 15% by weight of water This is contained under the condition that the total amount of anionic and nonionic surfactants is between 3% and 30% by weight, and all constituent materials total 100% by weight.

[0171] The cosmetic formulation produced by the method of the present invention contains in the base mixture b1) at least 5% to 80% by weight, preferably at least 10% to 70% by weight, and particularly at least 15% to 60% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation.

[0172] More preferably, the sunscreen produced by the method of the present invention contains in the base mixture b1) at least 10% to 50% by weight, preferably at least 15% to 40% by weight, and particularly at least 20% to 36% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation. Alternatively, the sunscreen produced by the method of the present invention contains in the base mixture at least 40% to 80% by weight, preferably at least 50% to 75% by weight, and particularly at least 55% to 72% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation.

[0173] Preferably, the base mixture in b1) has an SPF of 6 to 20, more preferably 6 to 15. Here, the SPF value can be obtained by simulation calculation using the BASF Sunscreen Simulator (https: / / sunscreensimulator.basf.com / ) or by the in vitro method described in the examples.

[0174] b2) Dispensing containers containing cosmetic active ingredients for personalization In the method of the present invention, the cosmetic formulation is partially determined ("personalized") by the end user in terms of its composition, according to the end user's requirements for the effects of the cosmetic formulation.

[0175] In one embodiment, personalization can be achieved by active cosmetic ingredients, i.e., active cosmetic ingredients are used for personalization. For example, if the end user particularly requires or desires a moisturizing cosmetic formulation, this can be satisfied by the method of the present invention, for example, by the presence of a humectant in the dispensing container b2). The requirement or desire for a moisturizing sun milk formulation can be satisfied by the method of the present invention, for example, by the presence of a UV filter and a humectant in the dispensing container b2).

[0176] Therefore, container b2) may contain a number of active cosmetic ingredients and UV filters for personalization according to the end user's requirements or desires. Preferably, the amount of active cosmetic ingredients and / or UV filters in the formulation in b2) is at least 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably at least 1% to 25% by weight, and particularly at least 1% to 24% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation. Preferably, the amount of active cosmetic ingredients and / or UV filters in b2) is at least 1% to 15% by weight, preferably at least 2% to 12% by weight, and particularly at least 3% to 10% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation. More preferably, the amount of UV filters in b2) is at least 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably at least 1% to 10% by weight, and particularly at least 1% to 8% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation.

[0177] A suitable UV filter for personalization in b2) has already been described in relation to the UV filter for b1). Particularly suitable for the formulation in b2) is an aqueous dispersion UV filter. Most preferably, the dispensing container b2) contains the UV filter-containing formulation. The UV filter-containing formulation preferably corresponds to the base mixture in the dispensing container b1). Alternatively, the UV filter-containing formulation preferably contains at least one aqueous dispersion UV filter selected from the group consisting of methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyltriazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Suitable active cosmetic ingredients for personalization (b2) have already been described in relation to the active cosmetic ingredients for (b1), and include, for example, active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insecticides, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, leavening agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrances, dyes, moisturizers, etc. Suitable compounds have been described, for example, in relation to the base mixtures in (b1), and explicit references thereto are made here. References are also explicitly made here to particularly suitable compounds and mixtures thereof described in (b1).

[0179] If desired, b2) may also include auxiliary agents and additives conventionally used in cosmetics as described in relation to the base mixture, such as water, stabilizers, solvents, solubilizers, preservatives, neutralizing and buffering agents, fragrances, dyes, humectants, complexing agents, etc. Preferred compounds are described as examples in relation to the base mixture in b1), and therein an explicit reference is made. References are also explicitly made here to particularly preferred compounds and mixtures thereof as described in b1).

[0180] Specific embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic formulations in which the (end) user desires a high proportion of emollients and / or active cosmetic ingredients. If the end user desires a face cream having a very high photoprotection coefficient, for example, higher than that which can be achieved by a UV filter from the base mixture in b1), this can be achieved by an additional UV filter in b2). Compounds suitable for this purpose are those described in the section on UV filters in relation to the base mixture described above, and explicit references to them are made here. Particularly preferred are additional UV filters selected from the group formed by ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, and diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate. If the (end) user desires a cosmetic formulation with a particularly high concentration, for example, a face cream having a higher proportion of emollients than that which can be achieved by a emollient from the base mixture in b1), this type of personalization can be achieved by an additional emollient in b2). Preferred emollients are described in relation to base mixtures as an example, and explicit references to them are made here. Particularly preferred emollients are also C2-C 12 Esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched C6-C 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate or dipropylheptyl carbonate; hydrocarbons, e.g., undecane / tridecane; linear C6-C6 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22 These are selected from the group formed by esters with fatty alcohols and Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0181] In other words, personalization in the context of the present invention can be achieved by the use of UV filters and / or active cosmetic ingredients, and the active cosmetic ingredients can be contained in b1) and b2), or otherwise only in b2).

[0182] In further embodiments of the present invention, the dispensing device b) comprises a further dispensing container b3) and optionally b4), preferably a further dispensing container b3). Depending on the requirements of the end user for the cosmetic formulation, the method may be carried out such that the UV filter and / or active cosmetic ingredient or cosmetic auxiliaries and additives or rheological modifiers are present in the dispensing container b3) and optionally b4). Suitable UV filters and active cosmetic ingredients for b3) and optionally b4) for personalization have already been described in relation to the active cosmetic ingredients for b1) and / or b2), and include, for example, active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insecticides, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, leavening agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrances, dyes, humectants, etc. Suitable compounds are described in relation to base mixtures as an example, and therein explicit references are made. References are also explicitly made here to particularly suitable compounds and mixtures thereof described in b1).

[0183] In a preferred embodiment, the formulation in b3) comprises an aqueous formulation comprising at least one surfactant, preferably at least one anionic surfactant. The aqueous formulation may further comprise at least one rheological modifier, a UV filter, and / or an active cosmetic ingredient. In particular, the aqueous formulation comprises at least one surfactant, preferably at least one anionic surfactant, and at least one rheological modifier. The corresponding aqueous formulation contains 55% to 95% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably 70% to 90% by weight of water based on the total weight of the aqueous formulation. Suitable surfactants, rheological modifiers, UV filters, and active cosmetic ingredients have already been described with respect to the base mixture in b1). The corresponding aqueous formulation is preferably used in b3) if b1) comprises a base mixture manufactured using a liquid oil mixture. In this context, the dispensing device b) preferably has in b1) a base mixture free of rheological modifiers, preferably prepared using a liquid oil mixture, and also preferably has in b3) an aqueous formulation comprising water, at least one surfactant, preferably an anionic surfactant, optionally a rheological modifier, optionally glycerol, and optionally a UV filter.

[0184] Therefore, by the method of the present invention, personalization of cosmetic formulations can be achieved, for example, by having a UV filter and / or active cosmetic ingredient present in the dispensing container b3) and optionally b4). However, these can also be present in b1), b2), b3) and optionally b4), or otherwise only in b2), b3) and optionally b4), or otherwise only in b1) and b2).

[0185] If desired, b3) and possibly b4) may also include auxiliary agents and additives conventionally used in cosmetics as described in relation to b1) and / or b2), such as water, stabilizers, solvents, solubilizers, preservatives, neutralizing agents and buffers, fragrances, dyes, humectants, complexing agents, etc. Preferred compounds are described as examples in relation to the base mixtures, and therefore explicit references are made here. References are also explicitly made here to particularly preferred compounds and mixtures thereof described as base mixtures.

[0186] In further configurations, rheological modifiers may be present in containers b3) and / or b4). Preferred rheological modifiers are, for example, those already mentioned in relation to the base mixture in b1) described above, to which explicit reference is given here. Particularly preferred rheological modifiers are, again, one or more compounds from the group formed by polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, polysaccharides, organic substances, such as fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters, and optionally chemically modified hectorite and bentonite. The presence of rheological modifiers in b3) and / or b4) may have a favorable effect on the manufacturing method, in particular, the viscosity of the cosmetic formulation can be controlled thereby. Suitable emollients are, for example, the emollients already mentioned above in relation to the base mixture b1) or b2) explicitly referenced herein, preferably C2-C 12 Esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched C6-C 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate or dipropylheptyl carbonate; hydrocarbons, e.g., undecane / tridecane; linear C6-C6 22 Fatty acids and linear or branched C6-C 22The esters are selected from the group formed by esters with fatty alcohols and Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms. b3) and optionally b4) preferably additionally include an emollient if a large amount of emollient is desired, for example, for the manufacture of a skin lotion.

[0187] If necessary, dispensing containers b3) or b4) shall contain an active cosmetic ingredient for personalization in an amount of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% to 15% by weight, and particularly at least 1% to 10% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation. This applies independently to each of the dispensing containers.

[0188] In a very specific embodiment of the present invention, a dispensing device for the manufacture of a Sunmilk formulation comprises three or four dispensing containers, b1) 10% to 60% by weight, preferably linear and / or branched C6 to C6. 18 Fatty acids and linear C6-C 22 Esters with fatty alcohols, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or linear and branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22 Fatty alcohol carbonates, especially adipic acid, sebacate ester or malate ester of linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, benzoic acid and linear and / or branched C6-C6 alcohols. 22 Esters with alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acids and linear C6-C6 22 At least one emollient selected from the group formed by esterification with fatty alcohols, An anionic surfactant, preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyethylene glycol ether citrate, acyl glutamate salts, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts having 12-24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkyl sulfate and alkyl phosphate salts, and citrate esters of glyceryl stearate, in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight. 1% to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants, preferably from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids and alkyl (oligo) glucosides. 1.5% to 8% by weight of a rheological modifier selected from the group formed by 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably hydrophobically modified hectorite and / or bentonite, polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyacrylate (polyether chains terminated with C8-C30 alkyl groups), copolymers of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, polysaccharides, fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters and wax esters, UV filter with 5% to 50% by weight, Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries or additives in an amount of 0% to 25% by weight, 0% to 20% by weight of water A base mixture comprising the above is included under the condition that the total amount of anionic and nonionic surfactants is 3% to 30% by weight and all constituent substances total 100% by weight. b2) preferably comprises a UV filter and / or active cosmetic ingredients, cosmetic auxiliaries and additives for personalization, selected from the group formed by active bio-components, humectants, fragrance oils, preservatives, UV filters, pH adjusters / buffers, dyes, emollients and film-forming agents, and / or a emollient agent. b3) and optionally b4) preferably comprises a UV filter and / or further active cosmetic ingredients, auxiliaries and additives for personalization, selected from the group formed by active bio-components, humectants, fragrance oils, preservatives, UV filters, pH adjusters / buffers, dyes, emollients and film-forming agents, and / or a emollient agent.

[0189] In a further specific embodiment of the present invention, a dispensing device for manufacturing a sunscreen formulation comprises three or four dispensing containers, b1) 10% to 60% by weight, preferably C6 - C 10 fatty acid - based triglycerides, C6 - C 18 fatty acid - based liquid mono - / di - / triglyceride mixtures, linear and / or branched C6 - C 18 fatty acids and linear C6 - C 22 esters of fatty alcohols, esters of dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols having 1 - 22 carbon atoms, and / or linear and branched C6 - C 22 fatty alcohol carbonates, especially adipic acid esters, sebacic acid esters or malic acid esters of linear or branched alcohols having 1 - 18 carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid and linear and / or branched C6 - C 22 alcohols, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and linear C6 - C 22 at least one skin softening agent selected from the group formed by esters of fatty alcohols, 1% to 20% by weight of at least one non - ionic surfactant, preferably from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids, and alkyl(oligo)glucosides, 0% to 16% by weight of at least one rheology modifier selected from the group formed by, preferably, optionally hydrophobically modified hectorite and / or bentonite, polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and its alkali metal salts, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylates (the polyether chain is terminated with a C8 - C30 - alkyl group), copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and its alkali metal salts, polysaccharides, fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono -, di - and / or tri - fatty acid esters and wax esters, 5% to 50% by weight of at least one UV filter, 0% to 25% by weight of active cosmetic ingredients, cosmetic adjuvants or additives, and 0% to 20% by weight of water comprises a base mixture under the condition that the total of all constituent substances is 100% by weight, b2) preferably comprises a UV filter selected from the group formed by active bio-components, humectants, fragrance oils, preservatives, secondary light stabilizers, pH adjusters / buffers, dyes, emollients and film-forming agents, optionally active cosmetic ingredients for personalization, cosmetic auxiliaries and additives, and emollients; and b3) and optionally b4) preferably comprises further UV filters selected from the group formed by active bio-components, humectants, fragrance oils, preservatives, UV filters, secondary light stabilizers, pH adjusters / buffers, dyes, emollients and film-forming agents, and / or active cosmetic ingredients for personalization, auxiliaries and additives, and emollients.

[0190] Cosmetic formulations manufactured according to the present invention are preferably creams, gels, lotions, emulsions, serums, fluids, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, waxes / oil masses, pastes, or ointments, particularly those containing water.

[0191] In the context of the present invention, water may be present in one or more of the containers b1), b2), b3) and / or optionally b4).

[0192] Preferably, the method of the present invention is carried out in a device further comprising a water tank c) and a mixing device a) and a dispensing device b).

[0193] In the context of the present invention, various devices or apparatuses are suitable for carrying out the method of the present invention. Such devices are known from the prior art. For example, capsule machines according to DE102016106040A or EP2038189B are suitable devices for carrying out the method of the present invention.

[0194] In one embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that the device additionally has a water tank c).

[0195] In the method of the present invention, the contents of dispensing containers b1) and b2) and any b3) and optionally b4) are emptied into a mixing device a) and mixed with water from a water tank c). Preferably, in the method of the present invention, the contents of dispensing containers b1) and b2) and any b3) and optionally b4) are emptied into a mixing device a) and mixed with water from a water tank c) in an amount of at least 30% by weight, preferably 35% to 80% by weight, and more preferably 50% to 80% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation.

[0196] A quantity of water less than 100% by weight of the cosmetic formulation may be present in one or more of the dispensing containers, and this is emptied into the mixing device a).

[0197] Preferably, the mixing device a) comprises a container a1) having a stirrer at the bottom which can be optionally lowered. Advantageously, after mixing, i.e., after the production of the cosmetic formulation, the stirrer at the bottom of the mixing container a1) is retracted and the mixing container is closed. When closed in this way, the container can be used as a storage container for the cosmetic formulation that can be transported by the end user.

[0198] If desired, dispensing containers b1), b2), and optionally b3) and optionally b4) may be heated in a heating system d) to a temperature preferably up to 80°C before being emptied into the mixing container a1). Generally, it is desirable to carry out the method of the present invention so that dispensing container b1) having the base mixture is heated. Alternatively, the process of the present invention may be carried out at room temperature only. According to the present invention, firstly, the contents of dispensing container b1) are emptied into the mixing device and mixed, preferably using a stirrer located at the bottom of the mixing container a1). Then, preferably in succession, the components in dispensing containers b2) and optionally b3) and optionally b4) are emptied into the mixing container a1) and stirred. If necessary, water may be additionally emptied into the mixing container a1) from a water tank c). If necessary, the water may be preheated in a separate boiler. The contents of the dispensing containers are expanded, in particular by pressure, and emptied into a container (mixing device a1) having a stirrer. It is preferable to stir the mixture in container a1) at a maximum of 5000 revolutions per minute for approximately 2 to 30 minutes at room temperature or while heating (maximum 85°C). In particular, cosmetic formulations in quantities of 20g, 25g, or 30g are produced by this method.

[0199] Preferably, in the context of the present invention, the dispensing containers b1), b2), any b3), and any b4) are capsules. For b1), a capsule having dimensions of a height of 3.5 to 4.5 cm and a diameter in the range of 3.8 to 4.2 cm (large capsule) is preferred. For b2), the capsule may have the dimensions of a large capsule or dimensions of a height of 3.5 to 4.5 cm and a diameter of 2.2 to 2.6 cm (medium capsule). For b3), the capsule may have the dimensions of a large capsule or a medium capsule, or dimensions of a height of 3.5 to 4.5 cm and a diameter in the range of 1.2 to 1.8 cm (small capsule). For b4), the capsule may have the dimensions of a large, medium, or small capsule, preferably a medium or small capsule, and the diameters of all capsules may differ on the two sides. More preferably, the capsules are made of aluminum or plastic. Suitable corresponding capsules are known, for example, in relation to coffee formulations. Particularly preferred are capsules that already have a device inside the capsule, in the form of a piston or plunger, that can empty the contents of the capsule; for example, the capsule may be constructed like a piston syringe.

[0200] The device of WO2018 / 073541 is particularly suitable for the method of the present invention, and an explicit reference thereto is made. WO2018 / 073541 is A tank for liquids, especially water (see water tank c), A liquid pump connected between the outlet of the liquid tank and the inlet of the liquid supply, A movable plate (dispensing device b), which has a mechanism that can be controlled by rotation around a vertical axis and is designed to contain one capsule each, comprising at least two chambers (dispensing containers b1 and b2), and a mechanism that can push the contents of each capsule out of the corresponding chamber containing the capsules by pressure and empty them into a mixing container a1), A chamber comprising a capsule having a base mixture (see dispensing container b1) and a chamber comprising a capsule having an activating cosmetic ingredient for personalization (see dispensing container b2) are disposed under a movable plate controlled to be positioned over a container (see container a1) for receiving the contents of b1) and b2) extruded from their respective chambers. The container a1) is first provided with (the container a1) is in fluid communication with an outlet of a liquid supply for introducing liquid into the container, particularly after extruding the contents of b1), b2), and any b3) and / or b4) into the container), and further comprises, second, a mixing element housed within the container a1) for manufacturing a cosmetic formulation within this container from a mixture of liquid (particularly water from a water tank) and the base mixture in b1), the activating cosmetic ingredient for personalization in b2), and any b3) and / or b4). A mixing device functions in a mixing system comprising

[0201] In the context of the present invention, the device of WO2018 / 073541 used in the method of the present invention is as disclosed in the preferred embodiments and FIGS. 1 to 8, and particularly The mixing element is a stirrer equipped at the bottom of the container a1) and driven by a motor, particularly an electric motor, equipped within the mixing system The container a1) is a removable container closed by a base wall so as to be able to store the cosmetic formulation for subsequent use The dispensing containers b1), b2) and optionally b3) and / or b4) are capsules comprising a cylindrical wall, a base wall having a central opening closed by a breakable lid, and a piston wall forming a piston housed within the cylindrical wall Penetration of the lid of the capsule is achieved using a piston or a metal pin moved using a motor, particularly an electric motor, and the pressurized outflow of the contents of the capsule into the container a1 The movable plate with respect to the capsule can be moved through the container a1) to allow the contents of the capsule to flow out into the container The movable plate is controlled by rotation using a motor, particularly an electric motor, such that the pressure discharge device can cause the contents within each capsule to flow out. It comprises a heating unit.

[0202] The mode of operation of the device is illustrated in particular in Figures 1, Figure 2 (dispensing device), Figure 3 (exit of the dispensing device for the contents of the capsule to enter the mixing system), and the mixer of the mixing vessel a1) in Figure 6.

[0203] Such a device is commercially available, for example, under the name "Emuage (registered trademark)".

[0204] In the context of the present invention, such a device can produce cosmetic formulations in customary amounts in the home, and the end user can determine the manufacturing location themselves if they possess their own dedicated device, for example, according to WO2018 / 073541. If different individuals or other business staff, such as a pharmacy, have such a device, the end user can partially determine the manufacturing location. The same applies to the time of manufacture.

[0205] The composition of the cosmetic formulation can be determined ("personalized") by the end user according to the end user's requirements for the effect of the cosmetic formulation. Advantageously, the method of the present invention is preferably controlled by information or data electronically transmitted to the end user or the device, preferably using a QR code. Preferably, a specific composition of the cosmetic formulation is assigned to the end user's requirements for the cosmetic formulation, and for this purpose, the combination of capsules is recorded. This information or data is preferably recorded in an app.

[0206] Preferably, according to the present invention, the method is carried out such that the end user provides the dispensing containers b1), b2) and any b3) and optionally b4) to the dispensing device b), preferably according to the information or data transmitted to the end user using an app.

[0207] For method control, it has been found particularly useful to provide information / data on the outer wall of the dispensing container, preferably in the form of a QR code. Therefore, the information / data on the outer wall of the dispensing container can be used to control the method of the present invention, preferably the sequence of processes (sequence of capsules), method parameters, such as the stirring speed, the method temperature of the heating system for the dispensing container, and / or the timing and amount of water from the water tank.

[0208] The present invention further provides a dispensing container for the production of a customary amount of sunscreen at home, comprising a base mixture of at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one UV filter, and at least one rheological modifier, or a base mixture without a rheological modifier, which can be manufactured on-site immediately at the end user's request and whose composition may vary with respect to that which is usable in the method of the present invention.

[0209] Preferably, the dispensing container contains at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one triazine derivative UV filter, at least one UV-A filter, and at least one rheological modifier, or a base mixture that does not contain a rheological modifier.

[0210] A dispensing container comprising a base mixture of at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one UV filter, and at least one rheological modifier, or a base mixture without a rheological modifier, can be used for the manufacture of a household-conventional amount of cosmetic formulation (i.e., sunscreen) which can be manufactured on-site immediately at the end user's request and preferably with respect to its composition for the method of the present invention, which is the use of a dispensing container comprising a UV filter and / or an active cosmetic component for personalization, preferably selected from the group formed by active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insecticides, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrances, dyes, and moisturizers, for the manufacture of a household-conventional amount of cosmetic formulation which can be manufactured on-site immediately at the end user's request and preferably with respect to its composition for the method of the present invention.

[0211] A base mixture in a dispensing container comprising or without a rheological modifier, comprising at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one UV filter, and at least one rheological modifier, may be used for the manufacture of a conventional amount of cosmetic formulation at home, which may be manufactured on-site immediately at the end user's request and may vary in composition, and which may be used for the manufacture of a conventional amount of cosmetic formulation at home, which may be manufactured on-site immediately at the end user's request and may vary in composition, preferably for the manufacture of a conventional amount of cosmetic formulation at home, which may be manufactured on-site immediately at the end user's request and may vary in composition, preferably using a UV filter and / or active cosmetic ingredient for personalization selected from the group formed by active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insecticides, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrances, dyes, and moisturizers. Finally, the present invention provides a use for the production of a customary amount of cosmetic formulation (i.e., sunscreen) at home, which can be immediately manufactured at the end user's request, preferably for the method of the present invention as described in claim 1, the use of a base mixture in a dispensing container comprising or without a rheological modifier, at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one UV filter and at least one rheological modifier, which is combined with at least one UV filter, preferably at least one water-dispersible UV filter, and / or an active cosmetic ingredient for personalization, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insecticides, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrances, dyes and humectants.

[0212] [Examples] The product was filled into capsules of various sizes: “large” (11.4 ml), “medium” (2.25 ml), and “small” (0.9 ml). The “large” capsules corresponding to b1) contained the corresponding sunscreen base mixture. Unless expressly noted, the “medium” capsules contained the cosmetic ingredients b2) necessary to meet personalized customer preferences (e.g., “medium” capsules b2)a, b2)b, or b2)c) in Example 1). The “medium” and / or “small” capsules contained cosmetic ingredients that functioned to meet personalized customer preferences as applicable (capsules b3) and b4)).

[0213] A capsule machine, according to international patent application WO2018073541, was used. For manufacturing, capsules were inserted into the intended device according to the personalized customer's wishes. After switching on the machine, the contents of the capsules were pushed into the container, and water was pumped from a separate water tank according to the selected cosmetic formulation. The type of capsule to be selected and the amount of water were recorded in the program for operating the capsule machine. The required amount of water was dispensed from the water tank. If necessary, the water may be heated in a separate boiler. The contents of the inserted capsules were automatically squeezed out and emptied into a container (mixing device a) with a stirrer. The mixture was stirred in container a1) at room temperature at a maximum of 5000 rpm for approximately 2-30 minutes. Strict method conditions were automatically controlled by the programming of the capsule machine. Different amounts of formulation were produced → 20g, 25g, or 30g.

[0214] [Examples 1.1~1.12] Sunscreen lotion (SPF30) In Example 1, capsule b1) containing a base mixture was used throughout with one of capsules b2) a, b, and c. The selection of capsule b2) depends on the wishes of the end user. Each of these combinations b1) and b2) produced a sunscreen emulsion. Each of these three combinations could also be further personalized by one of the optional capsules b3). For example, capsule b1)+b2) produced a preserved, scented sun milk with a nourishing skin feel and a SPF of 30.

[0215] Capsule b1)+b2)a+b3)a produced a preserved, scented sun milk with a nourishing skin feel, SPF 30, and an additional anti-aging effect.

[0216] A variety of personalized sunscreen emulsion formulations were produced.

[0217]

Table 2

[0218] All sunscreen formulations were produced: b1)+b2)a, b1)+b2)b, b1)+b2)c and b1)+b2)a+b3)a, b1)+b2)b+b3)a, b1)+b2)c+b3)a and b1)+b2)a+b3)b, b1)+b2)b+b3)b, b1)+b2)c+b3)b and b1)+b2)a+b3)c, b1)+b2)b+b3)c, b1)+b2)c+b3)c.

[0219] The sun milk formulations produced were all homogeneous and stable.

[0220] [Examples 2.1 - 2.12] Sunscreen Emulsion SPF30 In Example 2, capsule b1) was used throughout with one of capsules b2)a, b, and c. The selection of capsule b2) depends on the end user's preference. Each of these combinations b1) and b2) produced a sunscreen lotion. Each of these three combinations could be further personalized with one of capsules b3) depending on the case. For example, capsules b1) + b2) produced a preservative-treated and scented sun milk with a nourishing skin feel and an SPF of 30.

[0221] Capsules b1)+b2)a+b3)a produced a preserved, scented sun milk with a nourishing skin feel, SPF 30, and additional anti-aging effects.

[0222] Similar to Example 1, various personalized sunscreen lotion formulations were manufactured.

[0223] [Table 3] TIFF2023529996000008.tif67165

[0224] All of the manufactured Sunmilk formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0225] [Example 3] Sunscreen lotion SPF15 Similar to Example 1, various sunscreen lotions were produced by personalizing one of capsules b1) and b2), and optionally one of an additional capsule b3) and b4).

[0226] [Table 4] TIFF2023529996000010.tif151167

[0227] All of the manufactured sunscreen lotion formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0228] [Example 4] Sunscreen lotion SPF15 Similar to Example 1, various sunscreen lotion formulations were manufactured by personalizing one of capsules b1) and b2), and optionally one of an additional capsule b3) and b4).

[0229] [Table 5] TIFF2023529996000012.tif162165

[0230] All of the manufactured sunscreen lotion formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0231] [Example 5] Sunscreen lotion (SPF 40 or 50) Similar to Example 1, various sunscreen formulations were manufactured by personalization using capsules b1) and b2), and optionally one of the additional capsules b3) and b4).

[0232] Capsule b2) also contains a mixture including a UV filter if a sun milk with SPF50 is preferred over SPF40.

[0233] [Table 6] TIFF2023529996000014.tif176166

[0234] All of the manufactured Sunmilk formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0235] [Example 6] SPF30 sunscreen In Example 6, various sunscreen formulations were produced by personalizing one of capsules b1) and b2) throughout, one additional capsule b3), and optionally one capsule b4).

[0236] [Table 7] TIFF2023529996000016.tif66166

[0237] All of the manufactured sunscreen formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0238] [Example 7] SPF 15, 20, or 30 sunscreen lotion In Example 7, various sunscreen formulations were produced by personalizing either capsule b1), one of capsule b2) and optionally one further capsule b3) and optionally one capsule b4), or capsule b3) and optionally one further capsule b4).

[0239] Capsule b2) also contains the mixture in b1) or another UV filter mixture. Rather than further UV filter mixtures, the contents of capsule b1) can also be used directly for personalization along with at least one other capsule (here b3) and / or b4)).

[0240] Capsules b1), b2)a, and b2)b were provided in "large" size. Capsule b2)c was provided in "medium" size. Capsules b3) and b4) were provided in "small" or "medium" size, if used.

[0241] [Table 8] TIFF2023529996000018.tif255160TIFF2023529996000019.tif34165

[0242] All manufactured Sunmilk formulations were homogeneous and stable at room temperature, 4°C, and 40°C.

[0243] The SPF values ​​of the mixtures are reported below. SPF values ​​were confirmed using the BASF sun protection simulator calculation. The mixture prepared without the additional UV-containing capsule b2) had an SPF of 15. The mixture prepared with capsule b2)a had an SPF of 30. The mixture prepared with capsule b2)b had an SPF of 30. The mixture prepared with capsule b2)c had an SPF of 20. According to the BASF sun protection simulator calculation, the mixture prepared with capsule b2)d had an SPF of 30. The SPF values ​​of mixtures containing b1) and b1)+b2)a were similarly tested in vitro. Comparison of in vitro values ​​with simulated values ​​shows that the simulation provides a good approximation of SPF values ​​(see Table 13).

[0244] [Example 8] SPF50 and 50+ sunscreen lotion Similar to Example 7, various sunscreen formulations were manufactured by personalizing one of the capsules b1) and b2), and optionally an additional capsule b3) and b4).

[0245] Capsule b2) also contains the mixture in b1) or another UV filter mixture.

[0246] Capsules b1), b2)a, b2)b, b3)a, and b3)b were supplied in "large" size. Capsules b3)c and b4)d were supplied in "medium" size. Other capsules, when used, were supplied in "small" or "medium" size.

[0247] [Table 9] TIFF2023529996000021.tif255159TIFF2023529996000022.tif60165

[0248] All of the manufactured Sunmilk formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0249] The SPF values ​​of the mixtures are reported below. SPF values ​​were confirmed using the BASF sun protection simulator calculation. Mixtures prepared with additional capsules b2)a and b3)a had an SPF of 50. Mixtures prepared with additional capsules b2)a, b3)b, and b4)d had an SPF of 50+(>60). Mixtures prepared with additional capsules b2)b and b3)c had an SPF of 50. The SPF values ​​of mixtures containing b1)+b2)a+b3)a and b1)+b2)a+b3)b+b4)d were similarly tested in vitro. Comparison of in vitro values ​​with simulated values ​​shows that the simulation provides a good approximation of SPF values ​​(see Table 13).

[0250] [Example 9] SPF 15, 20, 30, and 50 sunscreen creams Similar to Example 7, various sunscreen formulations were manufactured. In contrast to the manufacturing method in Example 7, it was necessary to first heat capsule b1) to 75°C.

[0251] Capsules b1)a, b1)b, b2)b, and b2)c were supplied in "large" size. Capsules b2)a and b3)a were supplied in "medium" size. Other capsules, when used, were supplied in "small" or "medium" size.

[0252] [Table 10] TIFF2023529996000024.tif245167

[0253] All of the manufactured sunscreen cream formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0254] The SPF values ​​of the prepared mixtures are reported below. SPF values ​​were verified using the BASF sun protection simulator calculation. Mixtures prepared using capsules b1)a or b1)b had an SPF of 15. Mixtures prepared with an additional capsule b2)a had an SPF of 20. Mixtures prepared with an additional capsule b2)b had an SPF of 30. Mixtures prepared with an additional capsule b2)c and b3)a had an SPF of 50. SPF values ​​were similarly tested in vitro. Comparison of in vitro values ​​with simulated values ​​shows that the simulation provides a good approximation of SPF values ​​(see Table 13).

[0255] [Example 10] SPF 10, 15, 25, 30 and 50 sunscreen creams to be used as foundation. Similar to Example 9, various sunscreen formulations suitable as foundations were manufactured.

[0256] Capsules b1), b2)b, b2)c, and b3)a were supplied in "large" size. Capsule b2)a was supplied in "medium" size. Other capsules, when used, were supplied in "small" or "medium" size. [Table 11] TIFF2023529996000026.tif160167

[0257] All of the manufactured sunscreen formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0258] The SPF values ​​of the mixtures are reported below. The SPF values ​​were confirmed using the BASF sun protection simulator calculation. The mixture prepared using capsule b1) had an SPF of 10. The mixture prepared using capsule b2)a additionally had an SPF of 15. The mixture prepared using capsule b2)b additionally had an SPF of 25. The mixture prepared using capsule b2)c additionally had an SPF of 30. The mixture prepared using capsules b2)c and b3)a additionally had an SPF of 50. The SPF values ​​of the mixtures containing b1) were similarly tested in vitro. A comparison of the in vitro values ​​and the simulated values ​​shows that the simulation provides a better approximation of the SPF value (see Table 13), and that the in vitro values ​​are actually higher.

[0259] [Example 11] SPF 15, 30, 50, and 50+ sunscreen fluid Similar to Example 7, various sunscreen formulations were manufactured. In contrast to the manufacturing process in Example 7, capsules b3) were used throughout.

[0260] Capsules b1), b2)a, b4)a, and b4)b were provided in "large" size. Capsule b3) was provided in "large" size. Other capsules, when used, were provided in "small" or "medium" size.

[0261] [Table 12] TIFF2023529996000028.tif204166

[0262] All of the manufactured sunscreen formulations were homogeneous and stable.

[0263] The SPF values ​​of the mixtures are reported below. SPF values ​​were confirmed using the BASF sun protection simulator calculation. The mixture prepared using capsules b1) and b3) had an SPF of 15. The mixture prepared with an additional capsule b2)a had an SPF of 30. The mixture prepared with an additional capsule b4)a had an SPF of 30. The mixture prepared with an additional capsule b4)b had an SPF of 50. The mixture prepared with an additional capsule b2)a and b4)a had an SPF of 50. The mixture prepared with an additional capsule b2)a and b4)b had an SPF of 50+. The SPF values ​​of mixtures containing b1)+b3) and b1)+b3)+b2)a were similarly tested in vitro. Comparison of in vitro values ​​with simulated values ​​shows that the simulation provides a good approximation of SPF values ​​(see Table 13).

[0264] [Example 12] Formulation of base mixture Four different base mixtures (b1) were produced.

[0265] First, a UV filter, emollient, and preservative were mixed (Part A). This Part A was then blended with a solid oil mixture, pre-emulsion, or liquid oil mixture according to the desired base mixture (Part B). The compositions of the corresponding formulations are reproduced in Tables 12a to 12d.

[0266] Before pouring the base mixture according to Table 12a or 12b into the mixing device, first heat it to approximately 75°C in capsule b1).

[0267] [Table 13]

[0268] [Table 14]

[0269] [Table 15]

[0270] [Table 16]

[0271] [Example 13] The SPF values ​​of sunscreens from Examples 9-11, manufactured according to Table 13, were confirmed by in vitro measurement and simulation calculations.

[0272] SPF in vitro and UVA-PF testing are based on ISO 24443. The tests are based on confirming the UV transmittance through a thin film of sunscreen applied to a roughened substrate-SB6 PMMA sheet (roughness 4-5 μm, area 4.8 × 4.8 cm) from Helioscreen, Paris. The sunscreen formulation to be tested is 1.2 mg / cm². 2 The formulation was applied to PMMA sheets in the specified amount. Three sheets and five measurements per sheet were examined for each formulation. The formulation was applied to the sheets as uniformly as possible by hand. The sheets coated with the formulation were stored in a dark place at room temperature for 30 minutes before measurement.

[0273] measurement: Step 1 Using a Labsphere UV2000S UV transmittance analyzer, in vitro transmittance measurements were performed at 290-400 nm in 1 nm steps before each UV irradiation. The initial UV transmission spectrum was recorded before irradiation, and the SPF in vitro value was calculated (average SPF of all 15 values ​​(3 sheets and 5 measurements per sheet)).

[0274] Step 2 The initial UV transmission spectrum was mathematically corrected using the coefficient "c" according to ISO 24443, and the UVA-PF in vitro was calculated before irradiation.

[0275] Step 3 The formulation was irradiated with UV radiation using the Atlas Suntest CPS+ Solar Simulator, with calculated UV doses in accordance with ISO 24443.

[0276] Step 4 In vitro transmittance measurements and UV transmission spectra were performed after UV irradiation. The in vitro SPF value after irradiation was determined (average of 15 values ​​from 3 sheets and 5 measurements per sheet).

[0277] Step 5 The UV transmission spectrum after irradiation was mathematically corrected using the same coefficient "c" (following Step 2). The UVA-PF in vitro after UV irradiation was calculated.

[0278] [Table 17]

Claims

1. A method for producing a personalized sunscreen in a household, conventional quantity controllable by and / or according to the end user's wishes, in a device having a mixing device a) and at least one dispensing device b) comprising at least two dispensing containers, wherein a base mixture is present in one dispensing container b1), and active cosmetic ingredients suitable for personalization are present in the other dispensing container b2), the contents of dispensing containers b1) and b2) are emptied into mixing device a) and mixed in the mixing device, the contents of dispensing container b1) containing the base mixture, which includes at least one emollient, at least one surfactant and at least one UV filter, are emptied into mixing device, and the contents of dispensing container b1) also include at least one rheological modifier, or do not include a rheological modifier. Personalized sunscreens have their composition partially determined by the end user. The customary amounts in households are 1 ml to 1000 ml or 1 mg to 1000 g. A method in which a device is controlled by information or data electronically transmitted to the device or the end user, and / or the end user provides dispensing containers b1) and b2) to a dispensing device b) in accordance with information or data electronically transmitted to the end user using an app.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the base mixture has an SPF of 6 to 20 or 6 to 15.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the base mixture comprises at least one triazine derivative UV filter and at least one UV-A filter.

4. At least one triazine derivative UV filter is tris(2-ethylhexyl)4,4',4"-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tribenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone; Uvinul T150), bis(2-ethylhexyl)4,4'-{[6-({4-[(2-methyl-2-propanyl)carbamoyl]phenyl}amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]diimino}dibenzoate (INCI: diethylhexylbutamide triazone; Uvasorb HEB), 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; Tinosorb The method according to claim 3, selected from the group consisting of S) and mixtures thereof.

5. The method according to claim 3, wherein at least one UV-A filter is selected from the group consisting of diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate (DHHB), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), and mixtures thereof.

6. The base mixture is C 2 to C 12 an ester of a dicarboxylic acid and a linear or branched alcohol having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a linear or branched C 6 to C 22 mono- and / or dicarbonate of a fatty alcohol, a hydrocarbon, a linear C 6 to C 22 an ester of a fatty acid and a linear or branched C 6 to C 22 fatty alcohol, a C 6 to C 18 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one skin softening agent selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid-based liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixture, a vegetable oil, and a Guerbet alcohol based on a fatty alcohol having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the base mixture comprises at least one nonionic, anionic, cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant, or at least one nonionic and / or anionic surfactant.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the base mixture comprises at least one rheological modifier.

9. The method according to claim 8, wherein at least one rheological modifier is selected from the group of natural or synthetic-based anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers, fumed silica, bentonite and hectorite, and from the group of organic substances having a melting point above 45°C, selected from the group of fats, waxes, alcohols and / or hydrocarbons, particularly from the group of fatty alcohols and polysaccharides.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the base mixture has a emollient:surfactant ratio in the range of 1:4 to 25:

1.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the base mixture comprises a rheology modifier and has a emollient:surfactant + rheology modifier ratio in the range of 1:10 to 10:

1.

12. i) A base mixture containing or not containing at least one rheological modifier is manufactured using a solid oil mixture or preemulsion. or ii) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein a base mixture comprising or not comprising at least one rheological modifier is produced using a liquid oil mixture.

13. b1) In each case, based on the total weight of the base mixture, At least one emollient in an amount of 10% to 60% by weight, or 25% to 58% by weight, At least one nonionic surfactant in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight, or 2% to 18% by weight, At least one rheological modifier in an amount of 0% to 15% by weight, or 0.1% to 16% by weight, At least one type of UV filter, ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, or from 10% to 40% by weight. Active cosmetic ingredients and / or cosmetic auxiliaries or additives in amounts of 0% to 25% by weight, or 0% to 20% by weight, and 0% to 50% by weight, or 0% to 35% by weight of water A base mixture containing the above, under conditions where all constituent materials total 100% by weight, The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein b2) comprises at least one UV filter, and comprises or does not comprise active cosmetic ingredients, cosmetic auxiliaries and additives for personalization, and emollients, and if the dispensing device b) comprises dispensing container b3) and / or dispensing container b4), b3) and / or b4) comprises further UV filters, active cosmetic ingredients, auxiliaries and additives for personalization, and emollients, under certain conditions.

14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the dispensing container b2) contains a UV filter-containing formulation.

15. The method according to claim 14, wherein the UV filter-containing formulation corresponds to a base mixture in a dispensing container b1), or comprises at least one aqueous-dispersible UV filter.

16. The method according to claim 15, wherein at least one aqueous dispersion UV filter is selected from the group consisting of methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyltriazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, phenylenebis-diphenyltriazine, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine, and mixtures thereof.

17. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the dispensing device comprises a further dispensing container b3).

18. The method according to claim 17, wherein the dispensing container b3) for personalization comprises a UV filter and / or an active cosmetic component selected from the group formed by active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insect repellents, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, leavening agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrance oils, dyes, and humectants.

19. The method according to claim 17, wherein the dispensing device comprises a further dispensing container b4).

20. The method according to claim 19, wherein the dispensing container b4) for personalization comprises a UV filter and / or an active cosmetic component selected from the group formed by active biocomponents, secondary light stabilizers, self-tanning agents, insect repellents, antioxidants, film-forming agents, sensory additives, effect pigments, leavening agents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, fragrance oils, dyes, and humectants.

21. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein a base mixture, with or without a rheological modifier, is prepared using a liquid oil mixture, and the dispensing device comprises a further dispensing container b3), b3) comprising an aqueous formulation, with or without water, at least one surfactant or anionic surfactant, a rheological modifier, glycerol and / or a UV filter.

22. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 21, wherein the device further includes a water tank c).

23. The method according to claim 22, wherein the contents from dispensing containers b1) and b2), and, if the dispensing device b), the contents from dispensing containers b3) and / or b4), are emptied into a mixing device a) and mixed with water from a water tank c).

24. The method according to claim 22, wherein the contents from dispensing containers b1) and b2), and, if the dispensing device b), includes dispensing containers b3) and / or b4), the contents from dispensing containers b3) and / or b4), are emptied into a mixing device a) and mixed with water from a water tank c) in an amount of at least 5% by weight, or 15% to 75% by weight, based on the cosmetic formulation.

25. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 24, wherein the mixing in a mixing device a) is performed in a mixing container a1) having a stirrer that can be lowered at the bottom of the mixing container a1).

26. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein, if the dispensing device b) comprises dispensing containers b1) and b2), and dispensing device b), the dispensing containers b3) and / or b4) are heated in a heating system d) before being emptied into the mixing container a1).

27. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 26, wherein the dispensing containers b1), b2), any b3), and any b4) are capsules.

28. The device is controlled by information or data electronically transmitted to the device or end user using a QR code, and / or The end user provides the dispensing containers b1), b2) and optional b3) and optional b4) to the dispensing device b) according to information or data electronically transmitted to the end user using the app. and / or The method according to any one of claims 1 to 27, wherein the temperature and / or amount of water of a heating system for a dispensing container is controlled using a water tank via information / data on the outer wall of the dispensing container or in the form of a QR code.

29. A dispensing container for the manufacture of a customary amount of sunscreen used at home, which can be manufactured immediately on-site by or at the end user's request and whose composition may vary, for the method according to any one of claims 1 to 28, comprising a base mixture of at least one emollient, at least one surfactant, at least one UV filter and at least one rheological modifier, or a base mixture without a rheological modifier.

30. Use for the manufacture of a customary amount of sunscreen at home, which can be manufactured on the spot immediately at the end user's request, according to any one of Claims 1 to 28, comprising, or without a rheological modifier, a base mixture in a dispensing container, comprising, at least one UV filter, at least one water-dispersible UV filter, and / or an active cosmetic ingredient for personalization, present in a further dispensing container.