Retinol-based composition

Abstract

To provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for making up and / or caring for keratin materials.SOLUTION: A composition comprises at least retinol, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and an ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular to the antiaging care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" means especially the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the skin of the body and / or the skin of the face, more preferably the skin of the face.

[0003] Skin aging results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin.During the aging process, adverse changes in the structure and function of the skin appear.The main clinical sign of these changes in skin metabolism is the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, which are caused by sagging tissue and loss of elasticity.

[0004] Moreover, intrinsic ageing, which leads to changes in the skin, results inter alia in a slowdown in the renewal of skin cells, which is essentially reflected by the appearance of adverse clinical changes, such as a decrease in the subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of small wrinkles or fine lines, and by histopathological changes, such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, a loss of perpendicular fibers from the membranes of the elastic tissue, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue. [Background technology]

[0005] It is a known practice to treat these signs of skin ageing using cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising active agents capable of combating ageing, of which retinoids represent a known family of active agents.

[0006] Of particular interest among the retinoid family of compounds is retinol, a form of vitamin A. Specifically, retinol is a natural endogenous component of the human body. Moreover, it is well tolerated when applied to the skin at levels much higher than retinoic acid.

[0007] However, when retinol is introduced into cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical application, the decomposition of retinol is rapid due to the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, oxidizing agents, water, or especially due to elevated temperature.

[0008] One of the signs of retinol degradation is a change in the odor of the cosmetic composition in which it is used.

[0009] In particular, the decomposition of retinol also causes the emission of odors that users find particularly unpleasant and inconvenient, which can limit its use in cosmetic compositions.

[0010] The thermal decomposition of retinol is, inter alia, the subject of a study published in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 46, 191-198 (July-August 1995).

[0011] As a result, retinol formulated in cosmetic compositions is unstable, and it has already been proposed to stabilise the retinol contained in these formulations.

[0012] For example, WO 96 / 07396 suggests stabilizing retinol in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by using at least one fat-soluble antioxidant active agent and / or at least one sequestering agent.An example of an antioxidant active agent mentioned is butylhydroxytoluene (BHT).Moreover, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives are mentioned as sequestering agents.

[0013] However, BHT is a controversial compound because it may be toxic to humans. In addition, EDTA and BHT are neither environmentally friendly nor biodegradable. Moreover, this system does not solve the problem of changes in the odor of the composition.

[0014] Moreover, WO 93 / 00085 describes a water-in-oil emulsion containing retinol and a stabilizing system consisting of a chelating agent, such as EDTA, and an antioxidant. According to the above document, water-in-oil emulsions containing retinol stabilized with a system consisting of a fat-soluble antioxidant and a water-soluble antioxidant can also be prepared.

[0015] However, although the above documents teach that a combination of EDTA and BHT can stabilize retinol in a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such a combination does not appear to be effective when the composition is formulated in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0016] Compositions containing retinyl palmitate have also been proposed, however retinyl palmitate is less effective than retinol on human epidermal keratinocytes grown in monolayer culture, as measured at the transcriptional level. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0017] Thus, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions containing retinol, which are effective for combating the signs of aging of keratinous materials and which are stable over time, both during storage and also during repeated use, while retaining organoleptic properties acceptable to the user, in particular a pleasant fragrance and color.

[0018] There is also a need for such cosmetic compositions that meet consumer demands, especially with regard to the environment.

[0019] Moreover, there remains a need for efficient stabilization of retinol in cosmetic compositions, regardless of the galenic form of the composition.

[0020] The present invention is specifically directed to meeting these needs. [Means for solving the problem]

[0021] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising: Retinol; Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and Ethylenediamine disuccinate The present invention relates to a composition as described above, comprising at least

[0022] The inventors have surprisingly observed that the combination of at least one di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate makes it possible to efficiently stabilize the retinol contained in the cosmetic composition.

[0023] Specifically, as shown in the examples below, the compositions according to the present invention are stable insofar as loss of the retinol compounds contained therein is low over time.

[0024] Moreover, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention is stable and at the same time has organoleptic properties that are pleasing to the user, in particular odor and color that meet the user's expectations.In addition, no deterioration of odor and color occurs when using this composition.

[0025] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a low content of controversial ingredients, in particular less than 0.2% by weight of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or derivatives thereof, and preferably does not contain any controversial ingredients, in particular does not contain either butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or derivatives thereof.

[0026] In accordance with another aspect of the present invention, the present invention also relates to the use of at least di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate in a retinol-containing composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, to slow or prevent degradation of the retinol compound in the composition.

[0027] The compositions according to the invention are used in particular for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably for caring for keratinous materials.

[0028] Thus, according to another of its aspects, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials.

[0029] The above-mentioned cosmetic methods for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, are non-therapeutic.

[0030] Other characteristics, modifications and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more clearly apparent from a reading of the following detailed description of the invention and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0031] Retinol As mentioned above, the compositions according to the present invention contain retinol, also known as vitamin A.

[0032] For purposes of the present invention, the term "retinol" refers to all isomers of retinol, particularly all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, and 9-cis retinol, as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol.

[0033] In particular, the term "retinol" refers to all isomers of retinol, especially all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol and 9-cis retinol.

[0034] Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

[0035] In particular, the compositions according to the invention contain an effective amount of retinol.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means an amount of retinol that results in the desired effect through its implementation, in particular a reduction in the signs of aging of keratinous materials.

[0037] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.02% by weight of retinol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] More particularly, the composition according to the invention may contain retinol in an amount ranging from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The retinol content is understood to correspond to the active substance content, also known as the solids content, of retinol introduced into the composition.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment variant, retinol may be introduced into the composition in the form dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, and in particular at a content of between 5% and 20% by weight, preferably about 10% by weight, in said oil.

[0041] Most particularly suitable for use is the retinol sold by the company BASF, in particular the retinol sold under the name Retinol 10SU, which has a content of active substance of 10% by weight in soybean oil.

[0042] According to another particular embodiment variant, retinol in an encapsulated form may also be used.

[0043] Pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate di-t-butyl The composition according to the invention also contains at least di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

[0044] Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, or tetra-di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, is a compound that belongs to the family of cinnamic acid and its derivatives and has the CAS number 6683-19-8.

[0045] For example, BASF has developed Tinogard TT (登録商標) Mention may be made of the compound di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate sold under the name

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Ethylenediamine disuccinate The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0048] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound of the formula:

[0049] [ka]

[0050] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

[0051] Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinate used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0052] Such compounds are, for example, available from Innospec Active Chemicals under the tradename Natrlquest. (登録商標) The compound sold under the name E30 or by Octel Performance Chemicals, Inc. as Octaquest E30 (登録商標) It is a compound sold under the name

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight, or from 0.1% to 1.1% by weight, of ethylenediamine disuccinate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The content of ethylenediamine disuccinate is understood to correspond to the content of active material, also known as solids, of ethylenediamine disuccinate introduced into the composition.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment variant, the ethylenediamine disuccinate may be introduced into the composition in a form that dissolves in water, in particular in water, at a content between 25% and 50% by weight, preferably between 35% and 40% by weight.

[0056] Such a compound is, for example, the compound sold under the name Natrlquest® E30, at 37% by weight in water, by the company Innospec Active Chemicals.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one ethylenediamine disuccinate in a weight ratio pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound / ethylenediamine disuccinate of 0.1 to 5, in particular 0.3 to 2.5, for example 1.5 to 5, preferably 2.5 to 4.5.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention, in particular the cosmetic composition, comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.08% to 1.0% by weight of retinol, 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, 0.05% to 1.5% by weight of ethylenediamine disuccinate, At least

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention, in particular the cosmetic composition, comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.08% to 0.5% by weight of retinol, 0.1% to 1.0% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of ethylenediamine disuccinate, At least

[0060] aqueous phase The compositions according to the invention generally comprise at least one aqueous phase and / or at least one oily phase, incorporate effective amounts of retinol, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and ethylenediamine disuccinate, and constitute a cosmetically acceptable medium for forming the compositions according to the invention, in particular cosmetic compositions.

[0061] In particular, the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous, i.e. it comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The aqueous phase comprises water and, optionally, a water-soluble solvent.

[0064] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and is water-miscible (miscible with more than 50% by weight of water at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).

[0065] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions of the present invention may also be volatile.

[0066] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones, and C2 to C4 aldehydes.

[0067] According to one embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2 to C 32 It may contain a polyol.

[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0069] Preferably, the polyols according to the invention are present in liquid form at room temperature.

[0070] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention can be linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, particularly at least three -OH functional groups, more particularly at least four -OH functional groups.

[0071] Polyols suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are in particular polyols containing, in particular, from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0072] The polyol may be selected, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol, and polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] According to a preferred mode of carrying out the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one compound selected from 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises at least glycerol.

[0076] oily phase When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, said oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. The oily phase may also comprise other fatty substances.

[0077] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0078] An oily phase suitable for preparing a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, according to the invention may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluoro or non-fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0079] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0080] The oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment variant, oils of silicone origin are preferred.

[0081] The term "non-volatile" means a substance that has a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure that is greater than zero and is greater than 10 -3 This refers to oil with a viscosity of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0083] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0084] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0085] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at room temperature and has, in particular, a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (10 -3 The vapor pressure is in the range of 1.3 Pa to 300 mmHg, particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly in the range of 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0087] Volatile Oil The volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil or a silicone oil.

[0088] Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of branched C8 to C16 alkanes, such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8 to C16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and combinations thereof.

[0089] Volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more in particular 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C 2 ), sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 Mention may also be made of undecane-tridecane mixtures, the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognisy, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisilazane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0091] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and especially cyclohexasiloxane.

[0092] Fixed oil The non-volatile oil may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based fluoro oils and / or silicone oils.

[0093] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which may be mentioned in particular include: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, - synthetic ethers, for example oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may in particular be chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleic acid alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; - C 12 ~C 22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof; - Carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, non-phenyl silicone oils, such as caprylyl methicone, phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also A mixture of these various oils.

[0094] In particular, the composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular a non-volatile oil chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" refers to an oil having a solubility parameter at 25° C., d a , is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 This means oil equivalent to

[0096] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described by C. M. Hansen in "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0097] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion forces, which originate from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impact; - δ p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction forces between induced and permanent dipoles; - δ h characterizes a particular interaction force (e.g., hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor); and - δ a is the formula δ a =(δp 2 +δh 2 ) 1 / 2 is determined by.

[0098] Parameter δ p , δh , δ D and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:

[0099] In particular, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain oxygen atoms.

[0100] Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, said non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from: - liquid paraffin or its derivatives, - liquid petroleum jelly, - naphthalene oil, Polybutylenes, in particular Indopol H-100 (molar mass, i.e. MW=965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (M W = 1,340 g / mol), and Indopol H-1500 (M W = 2,160 g / mol) - polyisobutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, in particular Parleam sold by Nippon Oil Fats (登録商標) Panalane H-300 E(M) sold or manufactured by Amoco W = 1,340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 (M W = 6,000 g / mol), and Rewopal PIB 1000 (M W = 1,000 g / mol), - decene / butene copolymers and polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14; - polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, in particular Puresyn 10 (M), sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals; W= 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (M W = 9,200 g / mol); and A combination of them.

[0101] The non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, in particular an ester oil containing from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

[0102] Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.

[0103] The ester oil may, inter alia, be hydroxylated.

[0104] The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from: monoesters containing a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, said chain being in particular branched, provided that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C benzoate 12 ~C 15Alkyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoic acid alcohols or polyalcohols, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, or 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, the non-volatile ester oil is an ester of formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, said chain being in particular branched, with the proviso that R1 and R2, R1+R2, is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the ester comprises in total 18 to 40 carbon atoms. Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate. Preferably, the ester comprises in total 18 to 40 carbon atoms. Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned may include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate; - diesters, for example diesters containing a total of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular 18 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, preferably diisostearyl malate, for example, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, for example neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, in particular Dermol DGDIS from the company Alzo. (登録商標) It is possible to use the compound sold under the trade name of triesters, in particular those containing in total 35 to 70 carbon atoms, in particular, for example, triesters of tricarboxylic acids, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; - tetraesters, especially tetraesters having a total carbon number in the range from 35 to 70, for example pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in French patent application FR 0 853 634, and in particular, for example, polyesters obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may be made in particular of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or of copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA; - esters and polyesters of diol dimers with mono- or dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of diol dimers with fatty acids and esters of diol dimers with dicarboxylic acids, especially C8-C 34 , especially C 12 ~C 22 , especially C 16 ~C 20 , more particularly C 18 , which can be obtained in particular from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimer, e.g. Lusplan DD-DA5 from Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. (登録商標) and DD-DA7 (登録商標)sold under the trade name; - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex V216) by the company ISP (M W = 7300 g / mol); - vegetable oils of the hydrocarbon type, such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C 18~36 acidic triglycerides, such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 by Stearinerie Dubois, and unsaturated triglycerides, such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, and pracaxi oil; and - A mixture of them.

[0105] Other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the name KSG by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., the products sold under the name Trefil or BY29 by Dow Corning, or the products sold under the name Gransil by Grant Industries.

[0106] These fatty substances may be selected in various ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

[0107] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance.

[0108] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0110] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile fatty acid triglyceride, one non-volatile carbonate oil and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0111] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.

[0112] Preferably, the oily phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Sunscreen The compositions according to the invention may contain one or more UV-blocking agents.

[0114] Thus, according to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one UV-blocking agent.

[0115] In particular, the one or more UV-screening agents suitable for use in the present invention are selected from water-soluble UV-screening agents, fat-soluble UV-screening agents, insoluble UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof. Among these UV-screening agents, a distinction can be made between water-soluble organic screening agents, fat-soluble organic screening agents, insoluble organic screening agents, and inorganic screening agents.

[0116] The term "water-soluble UV blocking agent" means any compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase or capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an aqueous phase for blocking UV radiation.

[0117] The term "lipid-soluble UV-blocking agent" means any compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in the fatty phase or capable of being dissolved in colloidal form (e.g. micellar form) in the fatty phase for blocking UV radiation.

[0118] The term "insoluble UV-screening agent" refers to a UV-screening agent which has a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in water and which is insoluble in organic solvents, such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates, fatty acid triglycerides, e.g. Miglyol 812 sold by Dynamit Nobel. (登録商標) This means any compound for blocking UV radiation that has a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most of the solvents. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent that is in equilibrium with the excess solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[0119] The term "water-soluble organic UVA blocker" means any organic compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in an aqueous phase in molecular form or capable of being dissolved in a colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an aqueous phase for blocking UVA radiation in the wavelength range of 320-400 nm.

[0120] By way of example, water-soluble organic UVA blocking agents which may be used according to the invention include benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid) and its various salts, at least two benzazolyl groups carrying a sulfonic group, in particular 1,4-bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate) or its salts, for example Neoheliopan AP by Symrise. (登録商標) Mention may be made of those sold under the name Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5 or Benzophenone-9, benzophenone compounds which contain at least one sulfonic acid function.

[0121] The term "water-soluble organic UVB blocking agent" means any organic compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in an aqueous phase in molecular form or capable of being dissolved in a colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an aqueous phase for blocking UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm.

[0122] By way of example, mention may be made, as water-soluble organic UVB blocking agents which may be used according to the invention, of water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds, water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds, water-soluble p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds, water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The term "lipid-soluble organic UVB blocking agent" means any organic compound capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in a molecular form in a fatty phase or capable of being dissolved in a colloidal form (e.g. in micellar form) in a fatty phase for blocking UVB radiation in the wavelength range from 280 to 320 nm. Among the lipid-soluble organic UVB blocking agents, some of them are liquid at room temperature.

[0124] By way of example, liposoluble organic UV-blocking agents which may be used according to the invention include cinnamic derivatives, anthranilates, salicylic acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in US Pat. No. 5,624,663, imidazolines, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives as described in EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844, shielding polymers and shielding silicones, such as those described in WO 93 / 04665, in particular those described in WO 93 / 04665. Shielding polymers and shielding silicones, as described in the brochure, α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, for example those described in DE 19855649 A1, EP 0967200 A1, DE 19746654 A1, DE 19755649 A1, EP-A-1008586 A1, EP and 4,4-diarylbutadienes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,195,999, International Publication No. WO2004 / 006878, International Publication No. WO2008 / 090066, International Publication No. WO2011113718 and International Publication No. WO2009 / 027258, and the specification of the IP Mention may be made of the merocyanine derivatives, merocyanines and mixtures thereof described in IP COM Journal No. 000179675D published on 29 April 2009, IP COM Journal No. 000182396D published on 12 November 2009, and IP COM Journal No. IPCOM000011179D published on 3 April 2004.

[0125] Preferably, the fat-soluble organic UV-blocking agent is a dibenzoylmethane derivative, such as Parsol, in particular by DSM Nutritional Products. (登録商標) Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane or avobenzone sold under the trade name 1789, salicylic acid derivatives such as Eusolex by Rona / EM Industries (登録商標) Homosalate, sold under the name HMS, or in particular Neo Heliopan by Symrise (登録商標) Ethylhexyl salicylate, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives sold under the name OS, e.g. by BASF, among others as Uvinul (登録商標) Octocrylene, sold under the trade name N539, or by BASF, among others, Uvinul (登録商標) etocrylene, sold under the trade name N35, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0126] By way of example, mention may be made, as insoluble organic UV-screening agents which may be used according to the invention, of UV-screening agents of oxalanilide type, triazine type, benzotriazole type, vinylamide type, cinnamide type, benzazole and / or benzofuran, benzothiophene type containing one or more groups, or indole type, arylvinylene ketone type, phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type, amide UV-screening agents, sulfonamide UV-screening agents, or acrylonitrile carbamate derivative type UV-screening agents, or mixtures thereof.

[0127] By way of example, as inorganic UV-screening agents that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of metal oxide pigments, e.g. metal oxide particles, having an average elemental particle size of less than or equal to 0.50 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.50 μm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 μm and more particularly preferably between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.

[0128] The term "primary size" refers to the size of the unagglomerated particles.

[0129] One or more sunscreens may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Adjuvants

[0131] Surfactants According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant.

[0132] The surfactant may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.For definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, in particular pages 347-377 of this document for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

[0133] Nonionic Surfactants Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0134] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, alcohols preferably used contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular from C8 to 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 These may be ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated, for example stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-20), for example Brij, sold by Uniqema. (登録商標) 78, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30), and C 12 ~C 15 Mixture of fatty alcohols (CTFA name: C 12~15 Pareth-7), e.g. Neodol 25-7 from Shell Chemicals (登録商標)or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C 24 , preferably C 12 ~C 18 fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with two oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-2), such as Brij, sold by Uniqema; (登録商標) 72.

[0136] The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated, preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned are sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween 10 sold by the company Uniqema. (登録商標) 20, or Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Palmitate 20 EO, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Stearate 20 EO, Sorbitan Oleate 20 EO, or Cremophor from BASF (登録商標) Includes Croda products (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) (登録商標) Mention may also be made of the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate sold under the name 2121U-FL.

[0137] The alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides preferably used include those containing alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 or even 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and preferably containing glucosidic groups containing 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 or 3, glucosidic units. Alkyl polyglucosides include, for example, decyl glucoside (alkyl-C9 / C 11-polyglucosides (1.4)), e.g. Mydol 10 from Kao Chemicals (登録商標) or products sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP by Henkel. (登録商標) Products sold under the name Oramix NS 10 from SEPPIC (登録商標) Caprylyl / capryl glucoside, e.g. Plantacare KE 3711 from Cognis (登録商標) or products sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by SEPPIC (登録商標) lauryl glucoside, e.g. Plantacare 1200 UP from Henkel (登録商標) or products sold under the name Plantaren 1200 N from Henkel (登録商標) Cocoyl glucoside, e.g. Plantacare 818 UP from Henkel (登録商標) Caprylyl glucoside, e.g. Plantacare 810 UP from Cognis (登録商標) A product sold under the name Arachidyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol mixture (whose INCI name is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, manufactured by SEPPIC, Montanov (登録商標) 202); and mixtures thereof.

[0138] Anionic Surfactants The anionic surfactants include alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C 10 ~C 30 , especially C 16 ~C 25 , metal salts of fatty acids, particularly metal stearates and behenates, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Cationic Surfactants The cationic surfactants include alkylimidolizinium, such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (C 12~30 -alkyl)-tri(C 1~4 -alkyl)ammonium halides, for example N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

[0140] Amphoteric surfactants The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, such as N-acylamino acids, such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides, such as stearin oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates, e.g. Pecosil PS 100 from Phoenix Chemical Co. (登録商標) " may include products sold under the name

[0141] Silicone Surfactants The composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, as non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of 8 or more at 25° C., used alone or as a mixture, dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate may be mentioned, and as non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of less than 8 at 25° C., used alone or as a mixture, cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture may be mentioned.

[0142] The one or more surfactants may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Gelling and thickening agents Depending on the viscosity of the composition that one wishes to obtain, one or more thickening and / or gelling agents (which are, inter alia, hydrophilic, i.e., water-soluble or water-dispersible) may be incorporated into the composition.

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, in particular crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of the polyurethane type, polyacrylamides, and crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially those defined below.

[0145] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned are modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopol® by the company Goodrich. (登録商標) (CTFA name: Carbomer) and Pemulen (登録商標) (CTFA name: Acrylate / C 10~30 Products sold under the name 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid crosspolymers, polyacrylamides, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, e.g. Hostacerin (登録商標) Poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), sold by the company Hoechst under the name AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium polyacrylamide dimethyl tauramide), a crosslinked anionic copolymer of acrylamide and AMPS, which is in the form of a W / O emulsion, e.g. Sepigel, sold by the company SEPPIC (登録商標) 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C 13~14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and Simulgel (登録商標)These include the anionic copolymer sold under the name Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80), polysaccharide biopolymers such as modified cellulose, carrageenan, gellan gum, agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for use in the present invention may be natural or derived from nature.

[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "naturally derived" is intended to denote a polymeric gelator obtained by modification of a natural polymeric gelator.

[0148] These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

[0149] More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides, which can be divided into several categories.

[0150] Thus, polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides, such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans, or heteropolysaccharides, such as hemicellulose.

[0151] Likewise, the polysaccharides may be linear polysaccharides, such as pullulan, or branched polysaccharides, such as gum acacia and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides, such as starch.

[0152] More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not. As representatives of starchy polysaccharides, mention may be made most particularly of native starches, modified starches and granular starches.

[0153] In general, the non-starch polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives or fructosan, heterogeneous polysaccharides, such as acacia gum, galactomannan, glucomannan and pectin and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The one or more thickening agents and / or the one or more gelling agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Filler The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one filler.

[0156] The fillers are selected from pigments, titanium oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, boron nitride, nacre, synthetic or natural mica, nacre containing mica and titanium oxide, silica powder, talc, polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol® by the company Atochem, polyethylene powders, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold under the name Polytrap® by Dow Corning, expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres, in particular those sold under the name Expancel® by the company Kemanord Plast or those sold under the name Tospearl® by the company Toshiba Silicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride.

[0158] These fillers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, and preferably from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Activator The compositions according to the invention may contain additional active agents, in particular anti-ageing active agents other than the retinol used according to the invention.

[0160] As examples of anti-aging active agents, mention may be made of sodium hyaluronate, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentylacetic acid.

[0161] Such active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] As mentioned above, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, i.e. the composition contains less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, or is completely free of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, in particular butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or salts thereof.

[0163] Thus, the composition according to the invention is in particular free of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or its salts, and preferably completely free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or its salts.

[0164] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive chosen from adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetics field, such as preservatives, fragrances, dyes, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), cosmetic active agents, such as moisturizing agents, scar-forming agents, agents for combating oily skin, skin and / or anti-soiling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] Needless to say, the skilled artisan will take care to select this or any of these additional compound(s), and / or their amounts, such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not adversely affected or substantially affected by the envisaged addition.

[0166] composition As previously mentioned, the compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.

[0167] The compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with the skin.

[0168] The compositions according to the invention preferably are cosmetically acceptable media, i.e. have a pleasant color, odor and feel, and do not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tightness or redness, which would tend to discourage the consumer from applying the composition.

[0169] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form customarily used in cosmetics for the intended use, in particular cosmetics for topical use.

[0170] For topical application to keratinous materials, and in particular to the skin or its integuments, the compositions may in particular be in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, or in the form of a dispersion of lotion or serum type, in the form of an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of milk type obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or in the form of a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency, in the form of an aqueous or anhydrous gel or cream type, in the form of microcapsules or microparticles, in the form of vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0171] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, an emulsified gel or an oily solution.

[0172] In particular, the composition according to the invention has a pH in the range of 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition is in the range of 4 to 7, more preferably 5 to 7.

[0173] The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0174] Intended Use of the Composition The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular keratinous materials of the body or of the face, preferably keratinous materials of the face.

[0175] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, hands or body, such as day creams, night creams, make-up creams, foundation creams, antisun creams, fluid foundations, protective or care body milks, antisun milks, lotions or blister treatment products.

[0176] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may thus be used as a care and / or antisun product for the face and / or body having a liquid to semi-liquid, e.g. milky, more or less smooth cream, gel-cream or paste, consistency.

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, preferably the skin of the face.

[0178] In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0179] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratinous materials, in particular keratinous materials of the body or the face, preferably the face.

[0180] Thus, according to a submode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a make-up base composition for making up. The composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation.

[0181] According to yet another submode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, especially a lipstick.

[0182] According to yet another submode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

[0183] Such compositions are inter alia prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0184] The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face.

[0185] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined previously.

[0186] Preferably, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0187] In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be used to combat the signs of skin ageing.

[0188] The present application therefore also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for combating the signs of skin ageing.

[0189] The composition may be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.

[0190] Throughout this specification, including the claims, the expression "including a" should be understood as being synonymous with "including at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0191] The words "between...and...", "comprises from...to...", "formed from...to...", and "ranging from...to..." are to be understood as including limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0192] The invention will now be explained in more detail by the following examples, in which, unless otherwise specified, the amounts given are expressed as percentages by weight.

[0193] Working Example

[0194] Measurement and evaluation methods

[0195] Stability measurements Stability tests of the compositions were carried out according to the guidelines imposed by the standard ISO / TR 18811:2018. They are carried out on formulations prepared in 30 mL opaque lacquered glass bottles.

[0196] The measurements are taken 24 hours and one month after compounding. They can be carried out at three different temperatures, specifically at 20°C, 4°C, and 445°C.

[0197] Deterioration rate measurement The degradation rate after storage is measured by assaying the residual retinol in the composition after storage at 4° C. and at 45° C. for 1 month (T=1 month). The degradation rate is measured by HPLC and calculated as a function of the theoretical initial percentage or the initial percentage measured by HPLC. The theoretical percentage corresponds to the theoretical initial retinol content.

[0198] Determination of the organoleptic properties of the composition Appearance, color, and odor are judged by a panel of three for the formulations at T=24 hours for bottles at 20° C. and at T=1 month for bottles stored at 20° C., 4° C., and 45° C. If the composition has an odor that is said to be "raw," it is different from the odor of oxidized oils (rancid) and can be disguised by fragrance.

[0199] Measurement at 20℃ 30 mL opaque glass bottles are stored at room temperature (20° C.) in individual cupboards.

[0200] Measurement at 4℃ The formulations in 30 mL opaque glass bottles are stored at 4° C. in a Liebbern Gastro Line refrigerator provided by Manumesure.

[0201] Measurement at 45℃ Oven storage is performed at 45 °C for one month using a Jouvan oven provided by the company Manumesure. 30-mL opaque bottles are placed in the oven and left for the required time.

[0202] Evaluation of colorimetric properties The colorimetric properties of the compositions were evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0203] The color of the compositions was evaluated after producing a 50 μm thin film on a contrast card using a film spreader.

[0204] Colorimetric measurements were then taken using a Minolta CM2600D spectrocolorimeter at two points on the film.

[0205] The result is (L * ,a * ,b * ) system, where L *represents the brightness, and a * is the red-green axis (-a * =green,+a * = red), and b * is the yellow-blue axis (-b * =blue,+b * = yellow). Therefore, a * and b * represents the color of the compound.

[0206] For each formulation, color was measured at t=0 at 20° C. and then again at t=1 month (after storage at 45° C.).

[0207] Next, the color difference ΔE of each composition was calculated according to the following formula: * was measured. (ΔE * ) 2 =(ΔL * ) 2 +(Δa * ) 2 +(Δb*) 2 ΔL * +L at t=0 * Formulation-t=L at 1 month * compound Δa * +a at t=0 * Formulation - a at t=1 month * compound Δb * +b at t=0 * Formulation-b at t=1 month * compound ΔE * The higher the value, the greater the color change after one month.

[0208] Example 1 Composition I1 according to the invention and compositions CC1 to CC5 outside the invention are prepared using the weight ratios detailed in the table below, the values ​​being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] [Table 1] JPEG2024170575000003.jpg122170

[0210] Protocol for preparing the composition The ingredients of Phase A are heated to a temperature of 70°C to 75°C in a Minilab equipped with a planetary stirrer and emulsifier.

[0211] The ingredients of Phase B are heated in a beaker to a temperature of 75° C. using a hot plate and then poured into Phase A.

[0212] The mixture is emulsified for 10 minutes (emulsifier at 2000 rpm and planetary stirrer at 30 rpm).

[0213] Phase C is added and mixed for 10 minutes (emulsifier at 3600 rpm and planetary agitator at 40 rpm).

[0214] The heating system is turned off and the mixture is allowed to cool. Water is added.

[0215] The mixture is then pressurized to -0.60 Pa and the emulsifier is adjusted to 2400 rpm and the planetary stirrer is adjusted to 50 rpm.

[0216] When the temperature of the mixture reaches 40° C., sodium hydroxide is added and the vacuum is adjusted to −0.40 Pa.

[0217] When the temperature of the mixture reaches 37°C, the filler is added.

[0218] The emulsifier speed is increased to 2500 rpm and the planetary agitator speed is reduced to 40 rpm while maintaining the vacuum at -0.60 Pa.

[0219] Other phases are added.

[0220] When the temperature of the mixture reaches 33° C., the Minilab is stopped and the formulation is transferred to a beaker.

[0221] The addition of retinol is performed in a glove box under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen). The appropriate amount of retinol is weighed and then added to the beaker and stirred with a Rayneri at 650-700 rpm for 10 minutes.

[0222] The formulations are prepared under inert atmosphere in 30 mL glass bottles and 100 mL pillboxes, which are then closed. The items are placed in an airlock and a vacuum cycle is run to remove the nitrogen. The prepared formulations are then collected.

[0223] Determining the Stability of Retinol in the Composition The results of the degradation rate measurements of the composition I1 according to the present invention and compositions CC1 to CC5 outside the present invention are shown in Table 2 below.

[0224] [Table 2]

[0225] Composition I1 according to the invention exhibits significantly lower retinol loss than that observed for compositions CC1, CC2, CC3 and CC5 outside the invention, which contain EDTA and BHT or do not contain BHT or a combination of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and ethylenediamine disuccinate, respectively.

[0226] Thus, the results show that the compositions according to the invention are more stable than compositions outside the invention.

[0227] Determination of the sensory properties of the composition The results for composition I1 according to the invention and compositions CC1 to CC5 outside the invention are shown in Table 3 below.

[0228] [Table 3]

[0229] In contrast to the comparative compositions, the composition I1 according to the invention has a color and odor sufficient for use in cosmetics, in particular the changes in odor and color are minimal over time and therefore its organoleptic properties are maintained.

[0230] In particular, the change in color of compositions CC2 and CC4 is much greater than that of the composition according to the invention.Moreover, composition CC4 emits the odor of rancid, oxidized oil.

[0231] Compositions CC2, CC4 and CC5 are therefore not acceptable to consumers from an organoleptic point of view.

[0232] Example 2 Composition I2 according to the invention and composition CC6 outside the invention are prepared as shown in Example 1 using the weight ratios detailed in the table below, the values ​​being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] [Table 4] JPEG2024170575000007.jpg88170

[0234] Determining the Stability of Retinol in the Composition The results of the degradation rate measurements of composition I2 according to the invention and composition CC6 outside the invention show that the compositions according to the invention exhibit significantly lower retinol loss than that observed for the compositions outside the invention and are therefore more stable.

[0235] In particular, at T=1 month at 45° C. vs. 4° C., compositions according to the invention exhibit 14% less retinol loss than compositions outside the invention, and at T=1 month at 45° C. vs. theoretical rate, compositions according to the invention exhibit 20% less retinol loss than compositions outside the invention.

[0236] Example 3 Compositions I3 and I4 according to the invention are prepared using the weight ratios as detailed in the table below, said values ​​being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] [Table 5]

[0238] Protocol for preparing the composition The composition is prepared as detailed in Example 1 above.

[0239] Determining the Stability of Retinol in the Composition The results of the degradation rate measurements of compositions I3 and I4 according to the invention are shown in Table 6 below.

[0240] [Table 6]

[0241] Compositions I3-I4 which may be in accordance with the invention exhibit significantly lower retinol loss, thus demonstrating that compositions according to the invention remain very stable during their storage.

[0242] Compositions I3-I4 which may be in accordance with the invention also exhibit satisfactory organoleptic properties.

[0243] Example 4 Compositions I5 to I7 according to the invention are prepared using the weight ratios as detailed in the table below, the values ​​being expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0244] [Table 7]

[0245] Compositions I5 to I7 according to the invention exhibit satisfactory stability and / or ganoleptic properties.

Claims

1. A composition, in particular a composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising Retinol; Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and Ethylenediamine disuccinate The composition comprising at least

2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1.1% by weight of ethylenediamine disuccinate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ethylenediamine disuccinate is the potassium, sodium and ammonium salt and an amine salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, preferably trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

6. 6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate / ethylenediamine disuccinate is between 0.1 and 5, in particular between 0.3 and 2.5, for example between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 2.5 and 4.

5.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or salts thereof, or is completely free of butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or salts thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one UV-blocking agent.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it also contains at least glycerol.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for caring for keratinous materials.

12. A cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratinous substances, preferably the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 to said keratinous substances.

Images