Silicone Free Hair Conditioner

Abstract

The present invention relates to a silicone-free hair care composition containing trimethylglycine, ester quats and mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils in a cosmetic carrier, suitable for improving the care properties of the hair, in particular for improving the sensory properties and resistance of the hair to physical damage.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] This application describes a silicone-free hair care composition comprising trimethylglycine, ester quats, and mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils in a cosmetic carrier, and its use for improving hair care. [Background technology]

[0002] For example, the importance of hair care products is steadily increasing due to significant hair stresses such as coloring, permanent waving, frequent washing with shampoo followed by drying with the heat of a hair dryer, and environmental stresses. At the same time, cosmetic manufacturers are paying increasing attention to the subject of sustainability due to increasing consumer demands regarding sustainability.

[0003] A wide variety of different forms of hair care products are known and commercially available as such, most of which contain silicones, as they provide various conditioning benefits to the hair. When offering sustainable products, the use of silicones is largely omitted, but this usually comes at the expense of the care performance of the product. Many attempts have been made to overcome these drawbacks, for example testing whether the omission of silicones could be compensated for by increasing the concentration of other care ingredients used, but this was only partially successful, since although satisfactory or better care results could be achieved on wet hair, the care performance of such products on dry hair was insufficient.

[0004] DE 102018202803 A1 discloses a silicone- and / or mineral oil-free hair conditioning product containing trimethylglycine, amidoamines and specific ester quats, which imparts improved combability, detangling and shine properties to both wet and dry hair, while at the same time imparting a softer hair feel. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0005] [Patent Document 1] DE 102018202803 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0006] Nevertheless, there is still a demand for natural cosmetic products that have very good care performance, especially for dry hair, and can improve the elasticity or resistance of hair to the external environment. The care effect achieved should be at least equal to that of products containing silicone. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] These subjects, based on the total weight of the hair care composition, are: a) 0.1-2.0% by weight of trimethylglycine (INCI name: betaine), and b) 0.05-8.0% by weight of any mixture of: (b1) at least one esterquat of formula (II): [ka] [In the formula, R1 and R2 may be the same or different, C 1- represents a C4 alkyl group, R3, R4 are the same or different and represent the group -CH2-CH(R5)-OR6, in which R5 is C 1- represents a C6 alkyl group, R6 represents an acyl group of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a C-chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or an acyl group of isostearic acid, and X -represents a halide ion, a methyl sulfate ion, an ethyl sulfate ion, a maleate ion, a fumarate ion, an oxalate ion, a tartrate ion, a citrate ion, a lactate ion, or an acetate ion. and (b2) Mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils This has been accomplished by providing a silicone-free hair care composition comprising in a cosmetic carrier. Effect of the Invention

[0008] The hair care composition of the present invention ensures an excellent balance between hair care and hair fiber protection. In particular, by using the hair care composition of the present invention on wet and dry hair, it is possible to achieve excellent care effects such as improved combability, improved hair feel, and increased hair volume without using large amounts of active ingredients and / or without the need for the use of silicones. Use of the hair care composition of the present invention was further able to increase the resistance of hair to physical damage (eg caused by combing and / or blow drying). Improved biodegradability compared to silicone-containing products is a further advantage of the hair care compositions of the present invention since they contain a large proportion of active ingredients from renewable resources. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0009] Within the meaning of the present invention, a cosmetic carrier is understood to mean an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic carrier. For hair care purposes, such carriers are understood to be, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, pastes or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam preparations or other preparations suitable for application to the hair. According to the present invention, an aqueous carrier is preferred, which preferably comprises 50 to 95% by weight of water based on the total hair care composition.

[0010] As a first essential ingredient, the hair care composition of the present invention contains trimethylglycine (INCI name: Betaine). Trimethylglycine is an amino acid derivative well known for use in cosmetic compositions and is obtained from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. Natural betaine is commercially available, for example from Evonik under the name Tego®, and is used as a moisturizing agent in skin treatments and as a strengthening active ingredient in hair care compositions. It has been observed that the hair care properties of certain esterquats b) can be further improved by the addition of trimethylglycine. In particular, the combination of these active ingredients improves the detangling power and combability of dry hair, as well as the softness of the hair all the way to the ends.

[0011] Trimethylglycine is used in the hair care composition according to the invention in an amount (based on the total weight of the composition) of 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.9% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 1.75% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.4 to 1.6% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 1.5% by weight.

[0012] The second essential component of the mixture of care active ingredients in the hair care composition of the present invention is a compound of formula (II): [ka] [In the formula, R1 and R2 may be the same or different, C 1- represents a C4 alkyl group, R3, R4 are the same or different and represent the group -CH2-CH(R5)-OR6, in which R5 is C 1- represents a C6 alkyl group, R6 represents an acyl group of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a C-chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or an acyl group of isostearic acid, and X -represents a halide ion, a methyl sulfate ion, an ethyl sulfate ion, a maleate ion, a fumarate ion, an oxalate ion, a tartrate ion, a citrate ion, a lactate ion, or an acetate ion. The ester quat (b1) of the above.

[0013] Esterquat (b1) enhances the hair conditioning effect within the active ingredient combination a)+b) and in particular improves the feel of the hair. It has been found that particularly good hair conditioning results can be achieved using esterquats (b1) which contain unsaturated acyl groups R6 of specific C chain lengths.

[0014] Thus, particularly preferred esterquats (b1) are - R1 and R2 are the same and represent a methyl group; R3 and R4 are identical and represent the group -CH2-CH(R5)-OR6, in which -R5 represents a methyl group; -R6 represents the acyl group of oleic acid, -X - represents a chloride ion or a methyl sulfate ion, is selected from the compounds of formula (II)

[0015] Particularly preferred are the esterquats (b1) of formula (II) known under the name ethanaminium, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-methyl-2-[1-oxo-9-octadecenyl)oxy]-N-[2-[(1-oxo-9-octadecenyl)oxy]ethyl]-methylsulfate (salt) (INCI name: dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate), which are commercially available, for example, under the name Tetranyl® CO-40 from Kao. Dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate is an environmentally friendly, biodegradable cationic surfactant that imparts soft feel and excellent antistatic properties to hair fibers. In combination with trimethylglycine and vegetable oil glycerides, it improves combability on wet and dry hair and protects hair fibers from damage caused by the heat and mechanical effects of blow-drying.

[0016] The esterquats (b1) are used in the hair care compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 5.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.03 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.04 to 4.5% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 4.0% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition).

[0017] Suitable vegetable oil mono-, di- and triglycerides (b2) are preferably understood to mean mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides of sunflower oil and / or rapeseed oil, for example the glyceride mixtures known under the INCI name Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides.

[0018] The mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils (b2) can be used in the hair care compositions according to the invention either individually or in mixtures with the care active ingredients a) or (b1). When used individually in the hair care compositions of the present invention, component (b2) is preferably used in an amount of from 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition. When used as a mixture, it may, for example, be used together with esterquats (b1) in the hair care compositions of the invention, such mixtures being known, for example, under the trade name Stepanquat® Soleil and commercially available.

[0019] The commercial product Stepanquat® Soleil may be used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.75 to 5.0% by weight and in particular 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, said quantitative data being based on the total weight of the hair care composition.

[0020] To further supplement or enhance the care and protection effect of the composition of the invention, it is advantageous if said composition also comprises at least one amidoamine.

[0021] Within the meaning of the present invention, suitable amidoamines are understood to mean compounds of formula (I) below: [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl (or alkenyl) group having 19 to 30 carbon atoms; R2 and R3 are each independently hydrogen or C 1- represents a C4 alkyl group, x represents an integer of 2 to 6.

[0022] The amidoamines of formula (I) give the hair a very soft and smooth feel without weighing it down. In particular, it has been found that amidoamines with alk(en)yl groups (R1) containing more than 19 C atoms, when combined with the active ingredient combinations a)+b) according to the invention, further improve combability and are more suitable than the amidoamines typically used in the prior art (alk(en)yl groups with up to 18 C atoms) in preventing overconditioning effects (build-up).

[0023] Particularly well suited amidoamines are therefore -R1 represents an alkyl group having 20 to 24 carbon atoms; -R2 and R3 represent methyl groups; -x represents 2, 3 or 4, It is of formula (I).

[0024] Particularly preferred for use in the hair care compositions of the invention are amidoamines of formula (I) selected from amidoamines c), known by the INCI name Brassicaamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0025] Such amidoamines are commercially available from a variety of suppliers, and particularly suitable for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention are, for example, Kerabase® LC from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients, ProCondition® 22 from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients, and / or Amidet® APA-22 from Kao Corporation.

[0026] The amidoamines are preferably used in the hair care compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition), more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 2.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.4 to 1.0% by weight (OK).

[0027] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the silicone-free hair care composition of the present invention contains, in a cosmetic carrier, based on its total weight, the following: a) 0.1-2.0% by weight of trimethylglycine (INCI name: betaine), b) 0.05-8.0% by weight of any of the following mixtures: (b1) Formula (II): [ka] [In the formula, R1 and R2 may be the same or different, C 1- represents a C4 alkyl group, R3, R4 are the same or different and represent the group -CH2-CH(R5)-OR6, in which R5 is C 1- represents a C6 alkyl group, R6 represents an acyl group of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a C-chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or an acyl group of isostearic acid, X - represents a halide ion, a methyl sulfate ion, an ethyl sulfate ion, a maleate ion, a fumarate ion, an oxalate ion, a tartrate ion, a citrate ion, a lactate ion, or an acetate ion. and at least one ester quat of (b2) Mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils, and c) 0.1-3.0% by weight of at least one amidoamine of formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl (or alkenyl) group having 19 to 30 carbon atoms; R2 and R3 are each independently hydrogen or C 1- represents a C4 alkyl group, x represents an integer from 2 to 6.

[0028] Within this embodiment, particularly preferred are silicone-free hair care compositions which contain, based on their total weight: a) 0.1-2.0% by weight of trimethylglycine (INCI name: betaine), b) 0.05-8.0% by weight of any of the following mixtures: (b1) at least one esterquat known by the INCI name dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and (b2) at least one glyceride mixture known under the INCI name Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides, and c) 0.1-3.0% by weight of at least one amidoamine known by the INCI name Brassicaamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0029] In order to further enhance the care properties of the compositions according to the invention, it can be advantageous if said compositions contain further active ingredients and auxiliary substances which impart advantageous properties.

[0030] Thus, in a further preferred embodiment, the hair care composition of the present invention comprises at least one further conditioning active selected from: - triglycerides having a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms, isopropyl esters having a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms, -vegetable oil, -Glycerol - or a mixture of them.

[0031] To further support the care effect of the active ingredients a)+b) (and optionally +c)) of the hair care composition of the present invention, the hair care composition of the present invention may further contain at least one compound selected from the group consisting of medium chain triglycerides having a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Medium chain triglycerides derived from saturated fatty acids having 8 to 10 carbon atoms are preferred, in particular a mixture of caprylic / capric triglycerides. A suitable caprylic / capric triglyceride is available, for example, under the name Myritol® 318 from BASF SE.

[0032] Triglycerides having a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms can be used in the hair care composition of the present invention in an amount of preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, in particular 0.25 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Suitable isopropyl esters having a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms are understood to be isopropyl laurate, isopropyl myristate (for example the commercial product Rilanit® IPM), isopropyl palmitate (for example the commercial product Rilanit® IPP), isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, and mixtures thereof. Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0034] Isopropyl esters having a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms are preferably used in the hair care compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 4.0% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 3.0% by weight (based on the weight of the total composition).

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, "vegetable oil" is understood to mean oil bodies of vegetable origin having a melting point below 50° C., particularly preferably below 47° C., very particularly preferably below 44° C. and most preferably below 40° C. Most preferred are cosmetic oils that are fluid at temperatures below 40° C. Vegetable oils (and / or butters), even when used in low concentrations, in combination with the active ingredient combination a)+b) (and optionally +c)), can further enhance the aforementioned conditioning benefits for the hair, without build-up effects when applied regularly. Furthermore, the vegetable oils (and / or butters) in the care active ingredient mixture of the hair care composition of the present invention also contribute to improving hair luster.

[0036] Examples of natural vegetable oils suitable according to the invention are e.g. amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mallow oil, aloe vera oil, oleaginous ... The preferred oils are 1,2,3,4-trimethylsiloxyethylhexyl 1,2,3,4-trimethylsiloxyethyl 1,2,4,5 ... Amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip seed oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil and / or vegetable butters, shea butter and / or cocoa butter are preferred.

[0037] The teachings of the present invention also encompass the possibility of at least two natural vegetable oils mixed with one another.

[0038] The vegetable oil (and / or butter) is preferably used in the hair care composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 3.0% by weight (based on the weight of the total composition), more preferably 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.025 to 2.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.04 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1.0% by weight.

[0039] Glycerol can be used as a further active ingredient in the hair care compositions according to the invention (based on the weight of the total composition), preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 12.5% ​​by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.75 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.

[0040] The hair care compositions of the present invention may optionally contain one or more emulsifiers to solubilize the aforementioned oils. Suitable emulsifiers are preferably understood as meaning non-ionic polyethoxylated emulsifiers, particularly preferably ethoxylated fatty alcohols having 10 to 24 carbon atoms and / or ethoxylated castor oil.

[0041] Suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols within the meaning of the present invention are the addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty alcohols, where the degree of ethoxylation indicates the molar amount of ethylene oxide (EO) added on average per mole of fatty alcohol.Preferred ethoxylated fatty alcohols are the addition products of ethylene oxide to capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, eleostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassysil alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of industrial methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Laurent's oxo synthesis, and as monomer fractions in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particular preference is given to addition products onto technical fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example onto coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohols, in particular onto coconut and / or tallow fatty alcohols. Depending on the production method, ethoxylated fatty alcohols are obtained as mixtures with different distributions of ethoxylation degrees. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, these emulsifiers are characterized by their average ethoxylation degree, which can usually be identified as a number after the suffix "eth-" of the INCI name of the fatty alcohol. Particularly suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols with an ethoxylation degree of 10 to 100 moles, preferably 20 to 80 moles, of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol. Examples are: ceteareth-12, ceteth-15, ceteareth-15, laneth-16, ceteth-16, oleth-16, steareth-16, oleth-20, ceteth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-23, laureth-23, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-30, ceteth-40, laneth-40, oeth-50, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-60, and / or ceteareth-80.

[0042] Suitable ethoxylated castor oil is preferably understood to mean ethoxylated, hardened (i.e. hydrogenated) castor oil and unhardened castor oil. The degree of ethoxylation indicates the molar amount of ethylene oxide (EO) added on average per mole of castor oil. Preferred ethoxylated castor oils are the compounds known under the following INCI names: PEG-5 castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-10 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-36 castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-120 castor oil, PEG-120 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-150 castor oil, PEG-150 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated castor oil. A preferred non-ionic emulsifier is castor oil having an average degree of ethoxylation of 20 to 150, preferably 30 to 100, particularly preferably 35 to 80. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is particularly preferred.

[0043] From an environmental standpoint, it is advantageous for the hair care compositions of the present invention to contain emulsifiers in small amounts, if at all. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the hair care compositions according to the invention preferably contain up to 1.0 wt.-%, more preferably up to 0.8 wt.-%, particularly preferably up to 0.6 wt.-% and especially up to 0.5 wt.-% of one or more non-ionic ethoxylated emulsifiers (based on the total weight of the composition).

[0044] To further optimize the rheological properties of the hair care compositions of the present invention, these further active ingredients may include fatty substances. Suitable fatty substances are to be understood as fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form as an aqueous dispersion.

[0045] Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as suitable fatty acids. Fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these, mention may be made, for example, of isostearic acid, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, isopalmitic acid, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, and all other fatty acids sold under the trade name Edenor® (Cognis). Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as technical mixtures thereof. Typically, fatty acid fractions obtained from coconut oil or palm oil are particularly preferred, and in particular the use of stearic acid is generally preferred. The amount of fatty acid used in the hair care composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, based on the total composition. Particularly preferred is an amount between 0.5 and 10% by weight, with amounts between 1 and 5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.

[0046] As suitable fatty alcohols, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22, very particularly preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms can be used. In the context of the present invention, for example, the following may be used, said list being intended to be of an exemplary and non-limiting nature: decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols. In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols are obtained from natural fatty acids, which can usually start from the extraction of the fatty acids from their esters by reduction. These fatty alcohol fractions, which are mixtures of different fatty alcohols, can also be used according to the invention. Such substances are commercially available, for example, under the names: Stenol® (e.g. Stenol® 1618), or Lanette® (e.g. Lanette® O), or Lorol® (e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18), HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol® (e.g. Crodacol® CS), Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16, or Isocarb® 24. Of course, lanolin alcohols such as those commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan® may also be used according to the invention. The amount of fatty alcohol used in the hair care compositions according to the invention is preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight, based on the total composition. Particularly preferred is an amount of fatty alcohol used in the hair care compositions according to the invention between 0.5 and 15% by weight, amounts of 1.0 to 10% by weight being very particularly advantageous.

[0047] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair care composition of the present invention contains at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, fatty alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms in an amount of 1.0 to 10.0 wt. % (based on the weight of the total composition) to optimize the rheological properties.

[0048] In this embodiment, it is especially preferred that the hair care compositions of the present invention contain cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and / or mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in the amounts described above.

[0049] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair care composition of the present invention may additionally contain at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a preferred amount (based on the weight of the total composition) of preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.-%, more preferably 0.2 to 4.0 wt.-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.-%, in particular 0.4 to 2.0 wt.-% in order to adjust the pH but at the same time to support the hair care properties.

[0050] Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are preferably understood as meaning alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids which occur naturally - for example in fruit acids. These include, for example, malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, isocitric acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid and / or tartaric acid. Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are also understood to mean the dicarboxylic acids, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid. Particularly preferred are citric acid, lactic acid, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid.

[0051] When the hair care compositions according to the invention do not contain further fatty phase components besides the aforementioned active ingredients, particularly good stability and particularly good hair care results (in particular with regard to the shine and sensory properties such as softness and smoothness of the hair) can be achieved without causing overconditioning (oily, heavy hair).

[0052] The hair care composition of the present invention may contain further optional active ingredients, so long as they do not impair the effectiveness or manufacture of the composition. Optional active ingredients include, for example: -protein hydrolysates, -vitamin, -Anti-dandruff active ingredient, -carbohydrates, -Bioquinone, - Pudding, -Ectoine and / or -Plant extracts.

[0053] Suitable protein hydrolysates are understood to mean product mixtures obtained by acid-, base- or enzyme-catalyzed degradation of proteins. Protein hydrolysates of vegetable, animal and / or marine origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda). Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin are preferred, such as soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda). Cationic protein hydrolysates can also be used, the base protein hydrolysate being of animal origin (e.g. collagen, milk or keratin), of vegetable origin (e.g. wheat, corn, rice, potato, soy or almond), of marine organisms (e.g. fish collagen or algae) or of biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. The base protein hydrolysates of the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis (in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis), by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of both types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis usually gives protein hydrolysates with a molecular weight distribution ranging from about 100 Daltons to several thousand Daltons. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates in which the molecular weight of the base protein portion is between 100 and 25,000 Daltons, preferably between 250 and 5,000 Daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates is understood to mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out by quaternary ammonium salts, such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further derivatized. Representative examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives include products that are commercially available and known under the following INCI names: cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl ether HCl, hydroxypropyl trimonium gelatin,Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, Hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hydrolyzed casein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, steartrimonium hydroxyethyl hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein. The weight proportion of the protein hydrolysate relative to the total weight of the hair care composition of the present invention may be preferably 0.01 to 5 wt %, more preferably 0.025 to 3 wt %, and particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt %.

[0054] Suitable vitamins are preferably understood to be the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, and derivatives thereof: Vitamin A: The group of substances designated as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Suitable vitamin A components are, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as palmitate and acetate. Vitamin B: The B vitamins or vitamin B complex include, among others: - Vitamin B1 (thiamine) -Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) - Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often included in this designation. - Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In the context of this group, panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol that can be used are in particular esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone, and cationic derivatized panthenol. Representative examples are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic panthenol derivatives. -Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal). Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): It may be preferred to use it in the form of palmitate, glucoside or phosphate, as well as in combination with tocopherol. · Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially alpha-tocopherol). · Vitamin F: The term "vitamin F" is usually understood to mean essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H: The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is designated as vitamin H, but the common name biotin has come to be used for this compound.

[0055] Particularly preferred are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors selected from groups A, B, E and H. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol are more particularly preferred. The weight proportion of the vitamin, vitamin derivative and / or vitamin precursor relative to the total weight of the hair care composition is preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1% by weight, and in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.

[0056] Suitable anti-dandruff active ingredients may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock extract, poplar extract, nettle extract, walnut shell extract, birch extract, willow bark extract, rosemary extract and / or arnica extract. Climbazol, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine are preferred. Zinc pyrithione is particularly preferred. The weight proportion of the antidandruff agent relative to the total weight of the hair care composition may be preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.075 to 3% by weight.

[0057] Suitable carbohydrates may be selected from the group of monosaccharides and / or disaccharides and may be used in the hair care composition of the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 4.50% by weight, in particular 0.10 to 2.50% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition). Preferred monosaccharides and / or disaccharides are: monosaccharides, such as D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose, and Disaccharides such as sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.

[0058] In the composition of the invention, a suitable bioquinone is understood to mean one or more ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones. A preferred ubiquinone according to the invention has the following formula: [ka] [wherein n=6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.]

[0059] Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred here. Bioquinone, particularly coenzyme Q-10, is preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight in the hair care composition of the present invention.

[0060] Suitable purines and / or purine derivatives are preferably used in the hair care composition of the invention in an amount of 0.001 to 2.5% by weight (based on the total weight thereof). Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. Caffeine is most preferred.

[0061] Ectoine ((S)-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) can be used in the hair care composition of the present invention preferably in an amount of 0.00001 to 1.0% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition).

[0062] By using plant extracts as care substances, the hair care compositions of the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and nevertheless very effective manner in terms of care performance, possibly even omitting the preservatives normally used. According to the invention, the following extracts are particularly preferred: green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam flower, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, restaulow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as, for example, bayberry (bilwa), nutsedge (nagarmotha), emblica (Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Mountain laurel (Ashuka, Ashyuka), Tinospora cordifolia (Guduchi), Sandalwood (Chandana), Saffron (Cuncuma), Cinnamon and Lotus (Kamala), Wheat, Barley, Rye, Oats, Spelt, Licorice such as corn, Various types of millet (Sorghum, Crabgrass, Foxtail, etc.), Sugarcane, Ryegrass, Meadow foxtail, Oats, Bentgrass, Meadow fescue, Moor grass, Bamboo, Cotton Sedges, fountain grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata japonica, also known as cogon grass), buffalo grass, cord grass, Bermuda grass, love grass, Cymbopogon spp. (lemon grass), Poaceae (rice), Zoysia spp. (wild rice), night hawkweed, blue oat grass, creeping soft grass, queak grass, meadow grass, couch grass, Echinacea (especially Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench), all types of wine as well as the skin of Lychee chinensis. Plant extracts can be used both in pure and diluted form. When used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80% by weight of the active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used for the extraction.

[0063] The cosmetic hair care composition of the present invention may also contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives such as: UV filter substances, structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoins, Dyes for colouring the composition (not preferred according to the invention), Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid, and phosphonic acids, Pearlizing agents such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, Pigments, Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, and air; Antioxidants, Perfume oils, flavors and fragrances (not preferred according to the invention), provided that these are synthetic perfume oils, flavors and fragrances;

[0064] The hair care composition of the present invention preferably has a pH in the range of from 2.5 to 5.0, preferably from 3.0 to 4.5, particularly from 3.5 to 4.5.

[0065] Preferred hair care compositions of the present invention have a viscosity in the range of 3000 to 25,000 mPas, more preferably 3,500 to 20,000 mPas, especially 4,000 to 18,000 mPas (measured using a Brookfield DV 2+; 2 rpm; spindle 5; 20° C.).

[0066] The hair care composition of the present invention can be in both single-phase and multi-phase form, for example, in particular having two or three optically separate individual phases.When the composition is in multi-phase form, the entire composition is shaken before use to convert it into a single-phase composition and then applied.After shaking, natural separation occurs again, and separate phases are formed again within about 1 to 300 minutes.When the hair care composition of the present invention is in multi-phase form, it is preferred to package it in an optically transparent package. The compositions of the present invention may further be packaged as a pump spray, an aerosol spray, a pump foam, or an aerosol foam.

[0067] A second subject of the invention is the use of a hair care composition according to the invention as a cosmetic for improving the sensory properties and the resistance of hair to physical damage.

[0068] The statements made with respect to the compositions of the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the preferred embodiments of the uses of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0069] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without, however, limiting it in any way.

[0070] Patent Examples The following hair care compositions were prepared in accordance with the present invention (quantitative data are in weight percent) and evaluated as follows: [Table 1]

[0071] Compositions 4 (the composition of the invention) and 5 (a comparative composition of the prior art) were analyzed and evaluated in a single-blind test by 14 experts regarding their hair care benefits (feel). Ten out of the 14 experts rated the care effect of composition 4 as having a “better care effect”, one expert rated it as the same and three experts preferred comparative composition 5.

Claims

1. Based on the total weight of the hair care composition: a) 0.1-2.0% by weight of trimethylglycine (INCI name: Betaine), and b) 0.05-8.0% by weight of a mixture of: (b1) at least one esterquat of formula (II): 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, R １ , R ２ are the same or different, C １－ C ４ represents an alkyl group, R ３ , R ４ are the same or different and represent a group -CH ２ -CH(R ５ ) -OR ６ wherein: R ５ is C １－ C ６ represents an alkyl group, R ６ represents the acyl group of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a C-chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or represents the acyl group of isostearic acid, and X － represents a halide ion, a methyl sulfate ion, an ethyl sulfate ion, a maleate ion, a fumarate ion, an oxalate ion, a tartrate ion, a citrate ion, a lactate ion, or an acetate ion. and (b2) Vegetable oil monoglycerides, diglycerides, and triglycerides A silicone-free hair care composition comprising:

2. 2. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 1, comprising an esterquat (b1) known by the INCI name Dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

3. 2. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 1, containing a glyceride mixture (b2) known by the INCI name Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides.

4. 2. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one optionally cationized amidoamine in a weight proportion of 0.1-3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Formula (I): 【Chemistry 2】 [where: ・R １ represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl (or alkenyl) group having 19 to 30 carbon atoms, ・R ２ , R ３ are each independently —H or C １－ C ４ represents an alkyl group, x represents an integer of 2 to 6.

5. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 4, comprising an amidoamine of formula:

6. 5. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 4, comprising an amidoamine known by the INCI name Brassicaamidopropyldimethylamine.

7. below: - triglycerides with a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms; isopropyl esters with a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms, ・Vegetable oil, ・Glycerol Or a mixture thereof 10. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 1, comprising at least one additional conditioning active selected from:

8. 2. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 1, comprising a nonionic emulsifier in a weight proportion of up to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 2. The silicone-free hair care composition of claim 1, comprising at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a weight proportion of 0.1-5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for improving the care properties of hair, in particular for improving the sensory properties and resistance of hair to physical damage.

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