Composition for smoothing the skin and / or lips

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for smoothing the skin and / or lips, restoring volume to the face and / or lips and / or reducing and / or filling wrinkles, said process comprising the steps of: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol, - one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol, different from the first cosmetic ingredient, in an aqueous phase and The present invention relates to a cosmetic care and / or makeup composition for application to the skin and / or lips, the cosmetic care and / or makeup composition comprising a second cosmetic ingredient comprising glycerol, and optionally also comprising a third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1000 g / mol, different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, with the proviso that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic ingredient.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] FIELD OF THEINVENTION The present invention relates to the cosmetics field, in particular to compositions for smoothing the skin and / or lips. [Background technology]

[0002] (Technical level) Communication about anti-wrinkle benefits with immediate and sustained (at least all day) skin smoothing is a key asset and a powerful driver of innovation and consumer satisfaction.

[0003] Currently, the immediate anti-wrinkle smoothing effect is supported primarily by the incorporation of contractile film-forming polymers known for their tightening effect.However, the effectiveness of these polymers is limited either by their lack of durability (polymer film cracks) and comfort, or by the lack of smoothing effect (comfort / tightening paradox is not achieved).Moreover, to date, the smoothing effect provided by tightening polymers is insufficient compared to women's current expectations and is not durable at sensory acceptable doses.

[0004] There is therefore a need to develop alternatives to firming polymers to obtain immediate and sustained smoothing results. The applicant has demonstrated that the use of at least two cosmetic ingredients comprising one or more polyglycerols with 3 to 10 glycerol units, said cosmetic ingredients having an average molecular weight differing from each other by at least 100 g / mol, even at least 200 g / mol, advantageously in combination with a polyol and optionally a penetration enhancer, makes it possible to meet this need. The polyglycerol and any other hydrophilic or active ingredient in the composition penetrate the first layer of the skin and provide the volume and material to effectively and sustainably fill the wrinkles "from the inside". Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]

[0005] DISCLOSURE OF THEINVENTION The first subject of the invention is therefore a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium (or solvent, vehicle or medium), an aqueous phase as well as: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, the second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1000 g / mol; However, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component, in a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips.

[0006] The compositions of the present invention are non-rinsed care compositions and are distinct from rinsed compositions, which are hygiene or cleaning compositions (or cleaning compositions).

[0007] Another subject relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention, in particular to smooth the skin and / or lips and / or to restore volume, firmness and / or elasticity to the face and / or lips and / or to reduce and / or fill in wrinkles.

[0008] The present invention also provides an active combination for smoothing the skin, restoring volume to the face and / or lips, providing firmness and / or elasticity, and / or reducing wrinkles and / or filling in wrinkles, comprising at least: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; and - the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a second cosmetic ingredient which is different from the first cosmetic ingredient and which comprises one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol.

[0009] According to certain preferred embodiments, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for smoothing the skin and / or the lips and / or restoring volume to the face and / or the lips and / or reducing and / or filling in wrinkles, comprising applying to the skin and / or the lips a composition as defined by the present invention.

[0010] The following detailed description of the invention describes embodiments and compositions contemplated for carrying out the cosmetic process according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0011] Detailed Description of the Invention Thus, the present invention provides a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase as well as: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, the second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1,000 g / mole; However, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component.

[0012] A cosmetic process, in particular for smoothing the skin and / or lips and / or restoring volume to the face and / or lips and / or reducing and / or filling wrinkles, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, the second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1,000 g / mole; However, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component,

[0013] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic or cosmetic purposes that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular with the human skin and / or lips. By skin is meant the skin of the face and / or neck as well as the skin of the body.

[0014] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any vehicle suitable for topical use in contact with keratinous materials without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, and / or allergic reaction.

[0015] Polyglycerol Combination The polyglycerols comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units which constitute the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients which can be used according to the invention are in particular the following compounds: Polyglycerol-3 (240.25 g / mol) - CAS 56090-54-1, Polyglycerol-4 (314.33 g / mol) - CAS 56491-53-3, Polyglycerol-5 (380 g / mol), Polyglycerol-6 (462.5 g / mol) - CAS 36675-34-0, and Polyglycerol-10 (758.8g / mol) - CAS 9041-07-0 It is.

[0016] The compositions of the present invention comprise at least two cosmetic ingredients including one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and, optionally, an aqueous solvent, in particular water.

[0017] According to a particular embodiment, each polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredient consists essentially or exclusively of one or more polyglycerols having between 3 and 10 glycerol units.

[0018] By "consisting essentially or exclusively" it is meant that the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredient comprises at least 95% by weight, or more preferably 98% by weight, or even more preferably 99% by weight, or 100% by weight of polyglycerol.

[0019] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient consists of one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water. The polyglycerin content in such cosmetic ingredients containing a hydrophilic solvent (e.g. water) generally ranges from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. The INCI name of such ingredients is polyglycerin-x and aqua (water), where x ranges from 3 to 10.

[0020] If the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredient used according to the invention is a mixture of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, the term "average molecular weight" of said cosmetic ingredient means the average value of the molecular weights of said polyglycerols taking into account their respective proportions in said ingredient, this average molecular weight value determining the corresponding INCI name, as explained below.

[0021] For example, a cosmetic ingredient sold by Sakamoto under the name PGL-S contains polyglycerol-3 (major), polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5, and the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols that make up this cosmetic ingredient is close to that of polyglycerol-3.For this reason, the INCI name for this cosmetic ingredient containing a mixture of polyglycerols (polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5) is Polyglycerin-3.

[0022] Thus, the expression "a cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising (or consisting of) polyglycerol-x, where x is in the range of 3 to 10" according to the present invention covers a) cosmetic ingredients having the INCI name Polyglycerol-x (without solvent) and b) cosmetic ingredients having the INCI name Polyglycerol-x and aqua (water) (with solvent), where the polyglycerol(s) are solubilized in a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water.

[0023] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients comprising one or more polyglycerols having different INCI names selected from the group constituted by INCI names comprising polyglycerin-3, polyglycerin-4, polyglycerin-6, polyglycerin-10, polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 and water, having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and optionally a hydrophilic solvent.

[0024] Advantageously, according to the invention, at least two cosmetic ingredients are used, consisting of one or more polyglycerols with 3 to 10 glycerol units, said ingredients having an average molecular weight differing from one another by at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol. The combined use of two cosmetic ingredients, consisting essentially of one or more polyglycerols, differing from one another in average molecular weight by at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, makes it possible to extend the penetration kinetics in the superficial layers of the skin over time, for an immediate effect and a sustained effect over time.

[0025] According to a preferred embodiment, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component.

[0026] Thus, a cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of the skin and / or lips comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol, preferably 200 to 500 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, the second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol, preferably 400 to 800 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1,000 g / mole; However, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mole, or even at least 200 g / mole, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase as well as: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerin units, the INCI designations of which include Polyglycerin-3, or Polyglycerin-4, or Polyglycerin-6, or Polyglycerin-10; a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, the INCI name of which is different from the INCI name of the polyglycerol of the first cosmetic ingredient, the INCI name comprising Polyglycerol-4, or Polyglycerol-6, or Polyglycerol-10; and, optionally, a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, the INCI names of which include Polyglycerin-3, or Polyglycerin-4, or Polyglycerin-6, or Polyglycerin-10.

[0028] For example, a composition of the present invention includes at least a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes Polyglycerin-3 and one or more other cosmetic ingredients that have an INCI name that includes Polyglycerin-4, or Polyglycerin-6, or Polyglycerin-6 and water, or Polyglycerin-10, or Polyglycerin-10 and water.

[0029] According to another example, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-6, or Polyglycerin-6 and water, and one or more other cosmetic ingredients having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-3, or Polyglycerin-4, or Polyglycerin-10, or Polyglycerin-10 and water.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase as well as: - a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6, or - a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing Polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing Polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-10. Includes.

[0031] Thus, according to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention will comprise a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-6 or Polyglycerin-6 and water.

[0032] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerol-6 or Polyglycerol-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerol-10 or Polyglycerol-10 (and) water.

[0033] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-10 or Polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

[0034] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-3, a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-6 or Polyglycerin-6 (and) water, and a cosmetic ingredient having the INCI name Polyglycerin-10 or Polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

[0035] Other combinations comprising at least two cosmetic ingredients having INCI names can be made in the context of the present invention, as illustrated in Table 1 below, which describes two-to-two combinations (the INCI names of each of the two cosmetic ingredients are coded as PG3 for polyglycerin-3, PG4 for polyglycerin-4, PG6 for polyglycerin-6, and PG10 for polyglycerin-10):

[0036] [Table 1]

[0037] Other triple combinations falling within the scope of the present invention can be easily deduced from the double combinations described in Table 1 above, by adding a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first and second ingredients and comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and whose INCI names include Polyglycerin-3 (PG3), Polyglycerin-4 (PG4), Polyglycerin-6 (PG6) or Polyglycerin-10 (PG10).

[0038] Polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients that can be used according to the invention include the following references sold by the company SAKAMOTO: -INCI name Polyglycerin-3 PGL-S - Polyglycerin 310 with the INCI name Polyglycerin-4 -INCI Name Polyglycerin-6 and AQUA (Water) Polyglycerin - 500 MB -INCI Name Polyglycerin-10 and AQUA (Water) Polyglycerin-750 MB can be mentioned in particular.

[0039] Reference products sold by SPIGA: -INCI name: Polyglycerin-3 pure vegetable (or pure vegetable: Pure Vegetal) -INCI name Polyglycerin-4, pure vegetable -INCI Name: Polyglycerin-6, Purely Vegetable -INCI name Polyglycerin-10 pure vegetable can also be mentioned.

[0040] The total content of polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units in the composition according to the invention ranges in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Further advantageous ingredients The compositions of the invention may advantageously comprise further agents, different from the polyglycerols mentioned above, selected from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, penetration enhancers (or pro-penetrating agents), smoothing or exfoliating agents (or exfoliating agents), film-forming or tightening agents, antioxidants, gelling and / or structuring agents, fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention will comprise one or more polyol(s) different from the polyglycerols described above as moisturizing agents, penetration enhancers, and optionally smoothing or film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] A polyol different from the polyglycerol described above According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one moisturizing agent, and in particular at least one polyol different from the polyglycerols described above.

[0044] For purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol may be chosen from sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention will include trehalose, sorbitol or a mixture thereof.

[0047] Polyols suitable for the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl-type compounds having at least two -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functional groups, more in particular at least four -OH functional groups.

[0048] Polyols advantageously suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are C2-C8 glycols.

[0049] Advantageously, the C2-C8 glycols may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (or glycerine), diglycerol (or diglycerine), and mixtures thereof.

[0050] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention will include glycerol, diglycerol or mixtures thereof.

[0051] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least glycerol, diglycerol or a mixture thereof, and optionally trehalose, sorbitol or a mixture thereof.

[0052] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises at least one moisturizing agent, preferably at least one polyol different from the polyglycerols described above, and at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0053] The total content of said polyols different from polyglycerol in the composition of the invention will generally range from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] The total glycerol and diglycerol content in the composition of the invention will generally range from 2 to 12% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Agents that enhance penetration into the skin (so-called "penetration enhancers") According to another particularly advantageous embodiment, the compositions of the invention will comprise a penetration enhancer.

[0056] According to the present invention, "penetration enhancing" refers to a cosmetic product that makes it possible to improve and / or promote the penetration of the desired cosmetic ingredient (or raw material) into the different layers of the skin.

[0057] Thus, the compositions of the invention advantageously also comprise a penetration enhancer to improve and / or promote the penetration of the cosmetic ingredients, in particular the polyglycerol and possible polyols, of the composition into the skin.

[0058] According to certain embodiments, the penetration enhancer is: - hydrophilic molecules chosen from urea and its derivatives, glycine or trimethylglycine (betaine); these small hydrophilic molecules penetrate the various layers of the skin and thus facilitate the penetration of the hydrophilic or active ingredients present in the composition (polyglycerols, polyols, etc.); fat solubilizers, for example chosen from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol; these agents solubilize the fatty substances in the intercellular cement and thus facilitate the penetration of hydrophilic or active ingredients present in the composition (polyglycerols, polyols, etc.); surfactants, in particular non-ionic surfactants, preferably: o Glycerol surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids, e.g., PG10 myristate and glyceryl stearate; and o alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, such as surfactants with the INCI names Steareth-2 and Steareth-20; and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises: - hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), a fat solubilizer selected from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol, - glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids; - and mixtures thereof.

[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention will comprise a penetration enhancer selected from the group consisting of (i) hydrophilic molecules such as urea and betaine, (ii) mono- or poly-glycerol esters and C6-C24 fatty acids, and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] More preferably, the compositions of the present invention will comprise a penetration enhancer selected from the group consisting of (i) hydrophilic molecules such as urea and betaine, (ii) mono- or poly-glycerol esters and C6-C24 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention will comprise a penetration enhancer selected from urea, trimethylglycine (betaine), PG10 myristate and glyceryl stearate, or steareth-2 and steareth-20, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] More preferably, the compositions of the present invention will contain a penetration enhancer selected from urea, trimethylglycine (betaine), PG10 myristate, glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] A person skilled in the art will adapt the content of the penetration enhancing component depending on its nature and on the nature and content of the hydrophilic component and the active ingredient to be penetrated into the layer of the skin.

[0065] The total content of penetration enhancers in the composition of the invention will generally be in the range of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The total content of hydrophilic molecules may generally range from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] The total content of lipolytic agents will generally be in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] The total content of the surfactants can generally range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Leveling or stripping agents According to a particular embodiment, the dermatological composition advantageously also comprises a skin smoothing agent, in particular one or more hyaluronic acids or their salts, and mixtures thereof; in particular the sodium, potassium or magnesium salts thereof, preferably the sodium salt thereof.

[0070] The hyaluronic acid may also be in the form of a gel or in the form of a powder. The hyaluronic acid (or its salts) used according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and / or acetylated or non-acetylated.

[0071] Acetylated hyaluronic acid (or its salts) According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one sodium salt of hyaluronic acid selected from the sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid, the sodium salt of non-acetylated and non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, the sodium salt of crosslinked hyaluronic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise the sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid.

[0073] Preferably, the acetylated hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is that described in patent application WO2018 / 162672.

[0074] In particular, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt has an average degree of acetylation greater than 3.6 as determined by quantitative two-dimensional nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR).

[0075] According to a particular feature, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt used in the present invention has an average molecular weight of less than about 50 kDa, more particularly less than about 30 kDa, and a dispersion index of less than 2.3, more particularly less than 2.0, more particularly less than 1.5.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the acetylated hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is the sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid, in particular the product sold under the name "Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller" by the company Givaudan. The product "Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller" is referred to under the international nomenclature INCI: Sodium acetylated hyaluronate.

[0077] In particular, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt, preferably the product sold under the name "Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller", is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and especially from 0.1% to 1% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Non-acetylated and non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid (or its salts) According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, either non-acetylated or non-crosslinked.

[0079] Mention may in particular be made of the product with the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate sold under the name Sodium Hyaluronate HPM.

[0080] According to a particular embodiment, the non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight of 500 KDa or less, preferably 300 KDa or less, or a salt thereof.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is a product sold by the company Soliance under the name "Bashyal powder". The "Bashyal powder" product is hyaluronic acid in powder form, with a purity of 100% i.e. composed of 100% active ingredients. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 100 KDa to 300 KDa. "Bashyal powder" is referred to under the international nomenclature INCI: Sodium hyaluronate.

[0082] According to another particular embodiment, the low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the invention is the product sold under the name "Oligo-HA" by the company Sochibo. The "Oligo-HA" product is hyaluronic acid in powder form, with a purity of 100%, i.e. composed of 100% active ingredient. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 5 KDa to 10 KDa. "Oligo-HA" is referred to under the international nomenclature INCI: Hyaluronic acid.

[0083] According to the present invention, the molecular weight or molecular mass of hyaluronic acid means the "average" molecular weight (or average molecular mass) of the hyaluronic acid molecules that constitute the raw material used. In fact, the raw materials used as the source of hyaluronic acid contain hyaluronic acid polymers whose molar masses differ slightly. These variations in molecular mass are particularly related to the fact that the number of basic units (i.e. disaccharide monomers) contained in the hyaluronic acid molecule during its polymerization varies slightly. Thus, "molar mass of hyaluronic acid" or "average molar mass of hyaluronic acid" must be understood to mean that the molar mass is "about" the indicated mass. In particular, the indicated molar mass of hyaluronic acid varies by ±20%, preferably by ±15%, and even more preferably by ±10%.

[0084] Cross-linked hyaluronic acid (or its salts) According to a particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is in the form of a gel. According to this particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is preferably a product sold under the name "Phylcare® Hyacross® TL 100" by Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co, Ltd. "Phylcare® Hyacross® TL 100" is a hyaluronic acid gel containing 1% to 5% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the product. The hyaluronic acid polymer used in the composition of this product has a molar mass in the range of 1000 KDa to 1800 KDa. The product "Phylcare® Hyacross® TL 100" is referred to in the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI): Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Aqua (or Water: AQUA).

[0085] According to another particular embodiment, the high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is in the form of a powder. According to this particular embodiment, the high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is preferably available from Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd. Ltd. under the trade name "Phylcare® Hyacross® TL 200". "Phylcare® Hyacross® TL 200" is hyaluronic acid in powder form, 100% pure, i.e. composed of 100% active ingredient. The hyaluronic acid polymer used in the composition of this product has a molar mass of more than 3000 KDa. The product "Phylcare® Hyacross® TL 200" is referred to under the international nomenclature INCI: Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, pentylene glycol, aqua.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises the sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid and the sodium salt of non-acetylated and non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid.

[0087] According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises crosslinked hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof having a molecular weight of 1000 KDa or more, preferably 2000 KDa or more, more preferably 3000 KDa or more, and non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof having a molecular weight of 500 KDa or less, preferably 200 KDa or less, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The total content of hyaluronic acid or its salts may be in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the raw materials (weight of the product) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% to 5%, more preferably 0.01% to 1%.

[0089] As another smoothing or exfoliating agent, the composition can also include an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA).

[0090] Film-forming agents or tensioning agents (film-forming polymers) According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises a film-forming agent or agent having a tightening effect on the skin surface, in particular a film-forming polymer.

[0091] By "agent having a tightening effect" is meant an agent capable of smoothing the skin on the skin surface and reducing skin wrinkles due to a mechanical effect related to the elastic properties of the film formed on the skin surface.

[0092] By "film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer that is capable of forming a continuous film on a substrate when a solution, dispersion, or suspension of the film-forming polymer is applied to the substrate.

[0093] Evaporation of the solvent in which the film-forming polymer is dispersed enables the film-forming polymer to form a film on the surface of the skin and / or lips, thus prolonging the effect provided by the composition on restoring volume to the face and / or lips and / or reducing and / or filling wrinkles.

[0094] The film formed on the skin also acts as a reservoir for molecules dispersed therein, which gradually penetrate into the surface layers of the skin and produce the desired cosmetic effect, e.g., moisturizing effect.

[0095] These film-forming polymers can be natural or synthetic, lipid-soluble or water-soluble.

[0096] Preferably, water-soluble polymers will be used, advantageously of natural origin.

[0097] Synthetic water-soluble polymers include, among others, vinyl polymers (eg, polyvinyl alcohol), vinylpyrrolidone polymers and copolymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, latexes, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] The water-soluble polymers of natural origin include polysaccharides, in particular chosen from cellulose and its derivatives, in particular pullulan, pectin, carrageenan, galactomannan, xanthan, alginates, starch, and mixtures thereof, and can also be in the form of an algae extract, in particular an extract of algae from the Laminaria (or Laminariaceae) family.

[0099] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, pullulan is used.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, mention may be made of polysaccharides of natural origin having a molecular weight of less than 600,000 daltons, preferably less than 400,000 daltons and even more preferably less than 200,000 daltons, in particular in the form of an extract of Laminaria flexicaulis, as described in the applicant's application FR 2 828 810.

[0101] According to another particular method, starch, optionally modified, can be used. The starch is preferably a native starch, in particular chosen from maize starch, pea starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, rice starch, cassava starch, wheat starch. Preferably, tapioca starch will be used.

[0102] Starches are particularly described in the applicant's application FR 2 990 348.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of synthetic or naturally occurring polymers, in particular vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, cellulose and its derivatives, polysaccharides and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] When film-forming polymers are present in the composition of the present invention, the total content is generally in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises, in addition to two cosmetic ingredients based on polyglycerol: - polyols, preferably C2-C8 glycols, preferably glycerol, and optionally diglycerol; penetration enhancers, preferably selected from urea, trimethylglycine (betaine), non-ionic surfactants of the ester type of mono- or polyglycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids, such as PG10 myristate and glyceryl stearate, or alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; - a film-forming polymer, preferably selected from vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof; a smoothing agent, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid or its salts, or AHA; and mixtures thereof. may include.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of the skin and / or lips according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, the second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1,000 g / mol; With the proviso that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component; And, in addition, - hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), a fat solubilizer selected from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol, - glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids; - and mixtures thereof A penetration enhancer selected from the group consisting of Includes.

[0107] According to certain preferred embodiments, the penetration enhancer is selected from hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine and trimethylglycine (betaine).

[0108] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6, or - a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing Polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing Polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-10. Includes.

[0109] Thus, according to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-6, and a penetration enhancer selected from hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine and trimethylglycine (betaine), preferably betaine Includes.

[0110] The composition of this particular preferred embodiment may further comprise a naturally occurring water-soluble polymer, in particular pullulan, as a film-forming agent.

[0111] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-6, and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name that includes polyglycerin-10, and a penetration enhancer selected from hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine and trimethylglycine (betaine), preferably urea Includes.

[0112] fatty compounds The compositions of the invention may also comprise an oily phase comprising oils and optionally fatty compounds, such as waxes, pasty compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0113] These include waxes, butters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives of vegetable origin.

[0114] Filler The composition may also include a filler.

[0115] "Fillers" means particles of plate shape, sphere or oblong shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, dispersed in insoluble form in the medium of the composition. These fillers function in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a mattifying effect. "Blurring effect" fillers means an effect that camouflages the micro-relief of the skin, thus reducing imperfections in relief and / or color, such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores and spots, by an optical correcting effect.

[0116] Particular mention may be made of silica, cellulose, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Formulation The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a composition for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, and / or the lips.

[0118] The compositions of the present invention are non-detergent compositions and are distinct from detergent compositions which are hygiene or cleaning compositions.

[0119] According to particular embodiments, the care and / or makeup composition for the skin and / or lips is in the form of a lotion, a gel or a cream, for example a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, or a serum, preferably in the form of a gelled aqueous phase.

[0120] In particular, the composition may have a liquid, fluid or thick consistency.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a skin and / or lip care composition.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a makeup composition for the skin and / or the lips.

[0123] This particularly concerns skin care, in particular facial skin care for anti-aging, or make-up compositions for the skin, such as foundations that smooth the facial skin. According to another embodiment, it may be a lip treatment, in particular a lip treatment with a smoothing and / or volumizing effect, or a lip make-up composition, such as a lipstick with a smoothing and / or volumizing effect.

[0124] Makeup process The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the skin and / or lips, in particular to smooth the skin, restore facial and / or lip volume and / or reduce and / or fill in wrinkles.

[0125] Thus, according to certain preferred embodiments, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of a composition as defined by the present invention for smoothing the skin and / or lips and / or restoring volume to the face and / or lips and / or reducing and / or filling in wrinkles.

[0126] The following detailed description of the invention describes embodiments and compositions contemplated for carrying out the cosmetic process according to the invention.

[0127] The compositions of the present invention are applied to healthy skin and / or lips, i.e., skin and / or lips that do not exhibit conditions or disorders that would result from a pathological condition ("unhealthy" subjects with pathology). The terms healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips will be used interchangeably elsewhere in this specification.

[0128] The composition also promotes hydration of the skin and / or lips.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention is applied to a healthy subject exhibiting loss of facial volume.

[0130] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting signs associated with skin ageing, in particular wrinkles.

[0131] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to healthy subjects with dry skin.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention is applied to a healthy subject exhibiting a loss of skin firmness and / or elasticity.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is applied to healthy subjects having dry and / or thin lips and / or lips exhibiting lines.

[0134] Cosmetic Use The present invention also provides an active combination for smoothing the skin, restoring volume to the face and / or lips, providing firmness and / or elasticity, and / or reducing and / or filling in wrinkles, comprising at least: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; and a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; It also relates to non-therapeutic cosmetic uses of

[0135] According to a particular embodiment, the active combination according to the invention comprises: - hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), a fat solubilizer selected from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol, - glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids; - and mixtures thereof.

[0136] The active formulation will also advantageously contain a film-forming agent, especially a water-soluble polymer of natural origin, especially pullulan.

[0137] The invention is illustrated in the following non-limiting examples, in which, unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Working Example In the examples below, the following INCI named ingredients are used: -Polyglycerol-3 sold under the name PGL-S by SAKAMOTO -Polyglycerin-4 sold under the name Polyglycerin 310 by SAKAMOTO -Polyglycerin-6 sold by SAKAMOTO under the name Polyglycerin-500 MB -Polyglycerin-10 sold under the name Polyglycerin-750 MB by SAKAMOTO.

[0139] Example 1: Permeation kinetics of polyglycerol into the superficial layer of skin Preliminary studies (unpublished) have been carried out on sections of human skin studied by imaging (7T-MALDI-FT-ICR mass spectrometry imaging (MSI)) and have been able to demonstrate the interest of using polyglycerols or mixtures of polyglycerols in the skin. This study has shown in particular by imaging that the penetration rate of polyglycerols and their penetration depth in the superficial skin layers (epidermis and epidermis) are influenced by the molecular weight of these compounds, i.e. the size of the glycerol chain.

[0140] In fact, it has been demonstrated that polyglycerol-4 penetrates faster but remains in the epidermis compared to polyglycerol-3, which penetrates rapidly and reaches the epidermis very quickly, whereas polyglycerol-5 and polyglycerol-6 do not penetrate as deeply as polyglycerol-3 or polyglycerol-4.

[0141] These data show that the combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights in cosmetic compositions, in particular polyglycerols differing in average molecular weight by at least 100 g / mol, or even by at least 200 g / mol, is of particular interest in order to obtain effects on both the kinetics of skin penetration and the depth of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin.

[0142] These compounds can act more or less rapidly at different levels of the superficial layers of the skin and in particular produce their effect by moisturizing and / or smoothing the superficial layers of the skin by swelling or filling them, resulting in a sustained effect through controlled penetration kinetics.

[0143] The polyglycerol combinations are particularly preferred in cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous phase, such as gelled aqueous compositions or emulsion-type compositions, the aqueous phase being either dispersed in a fatty phase (water-in-oil emulsions) or constituting the continuous phase (oil-in-water emulsions).

[0144] Example 2 - Effect of the combination of the present invention on smoothing the skin In this example, the effect of the combination of the invention compared to a control formula was studied.

[0145] The composition according to the present invention comprises glycerol, a mixture of polyglycerols, and a penetration enhancer (urea).

[0146] The formulations of the two compositions tested are set out in Table 2 below (percentages are expressed by weight of the component relative to the final formulation):

[0147] [Table 2]

[0148] The composition is prepared according to the following steps: Prepare the required amount of water in a beaker and heat it to 40°C.

[0149] Add Phase D and stir until homogenous and form a gel.

[0150] Add Phase A with stirring, then add Phase B.

[0151] Prepare phase C in another beaker and heat to 40°C.

[0152] Phase C is added to the water phase with vigorous stirring to form an emulsion.

[0153] Remove from heat and add E then F with stirring until a homogenous mixture is obtained.

[0154] - Smoothing effect after 4 hours.

[0155] 1- To leave an impression This approach is based on making a replica (or impression) of the skin area of ​​interest.

[0156] In this case, the area studied is the corner of the eye, also known as the "crow's feet".

[0157] A first impression is taken before applying the compositions studied (control and invention).

[0158] To make the impression, an adhesive ring with a diameter of 24 mm is applied to the test area. A spatula is used to spread Silflo silicone casting resin (Flexico) and catalyst (Flexico) inside the ring. After drying, the replica is peeled off from the skin surface.

[0159] The second impression is made 4 hours after application of the cosmetic composition (control or inventive). The protocol is reproduced for each cosmetic composition.

[0160] 2-Image Analysis Each replica is placed on a table and illuminated with a grazing illuminator with an angle of incidence of thirty-five degrees (35°) to generate a shadow behind each line on the skin surface.

[0161] These shadows are then analyzed on a video image of the replica. Using the MONADERM video imaging system, high-resolution images of the made impression are acquired and the digital values ​​representing the shade of grey of each point (pixel) on the image are analyzed.

[0162] The replica taken after application of the tested cosmetic composition is exactly rearranged with respect to the replica taken before application and corresponds to TO.

[0163] The QUANTITRIDES software calculates the following parameters: number of wrinkles, total wrinkle surface area (mm 2 ), total wrinkle length (mm), average wrinkle length (mm), and average wrinkle depth (μm).

[0164] The smoothing effect itself is evaluated by comparing these parameters before and after application: if the smoothing effect is significant, a reduction in the wrinkle zone, its length and / or surface area or depth is observed.

[0165] In this example, the study was conducted on 16 volunteers (n=16).

[0166] 2 microliters per square centimeter (μl / cm 2 ) was applied to the test area. Images were taken at T0 (before application) and then 4 hours after application of the product to the studied area.

[0167] The results after 4 hours are shown in Table 3 below:

[0168] [Table 3]

[0169] For the composition of the present invention, a significant reduction in the number of wrinkles, total wrinkle surface area, and total wrinkle length was observed 4 hours after application.

[0170] For the control, no smoothing effect was measured 4 hours after application of the formulation.

[0171] This demonstrates the sustained smoothing effect produced by the composition of the present invention compared to the control formulation tested.

[0172] Example 3: Smoothing effect optimized by adding a film former to the combination of the invention In this example, the effectiveness of a cream according to the invention was investigated in relation to a control formulation.

[0173] The composition according to the invention comprises glycerol, a mixture of polyglycerols, a penetration enhancer (trimethylglycine, also called betaine), and a film-forming agent (pullulan).

[0174] The polyglycerol and penetration enhancer content is lower than that used in Example 2 above, and the formulation of the present invention also contains a pullulan film former.

[0175] The formulations of the two compositions tested are set out in Table 4 below (percentages are expressed as a percentage of the final formulation):

[0176] [Table 4]

[0177] Smoothing effect after -4 hours (n=13) The study was carried out according to the method described in Example 2 on n=13 volunteers.

[0178] The results after 4 hours are shown in Table 5 below:

[0179] [Table 5]

[0180] The composition of the invention produces a significantly improved smoothing effect on the wrinkles around the eyes 4 hours after application compared to TO, due to the presence of a film-forming agent (pullulan) in combination with a combination of polyglycerols.

[0181] The control formulation did not show any significant smoothing effect on wrinkles in the same study area 4 hours after application compared to TO.

[0182] Example 4: Fluid cream according to the invention The compositions below are fluid creams in the form of gelling water-in-oil emulsions containing a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and penetration enhancers (urea, PG10 myristate and glyceryl stearate), the percentages being expressed as % by weight of the final formula (Table 6).

[0183] [Table 6]

[0184] The compositions in Table 6 above were tested in 15 volunteers according to the methods described in Example 2.

[0185] The composition has a smoothing effect on crow's feet: the number of wrinkles and their total length were significantly reduced (-15% to -20%) 4 hours after application of the composition to the investigated areas.

[0186] Example 5: Thick cream according to the invention The following composition is a thickened eye cream in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and penetration enhancers (urea, steareth-21 and steareth-2).

[0187] The formulations are detailed below in Table 7. Percentages are expressed by weight of the final composition.

[0188] [Table 7]

[0189] The compositions in Table 7 above were tested on 15 volunteers according to the methods described in Example 2.

[0190] The composition has a smoothing effect on the corners of the eye area: the total surface area of ​​the wrinkles and the total length of the wrinkles were significantly reduced (-15% to -20%) 4 hours after application of the composition to the investigated areas.

[0191] Comparative testing of the formulations of examples 4 and 5 on sections of human skin investigated by imaging (7T-MALDI-FT-ICR mass spectrometry imaging (MSI)) made it possible to show that the polyglycerol of formulation 4 penetrates the layers of the skin better than the polyglycerol of formulation 5, favoring the use of (poly)glycerol-based surfactants (glyceryl stearate and PG-10 myristate) as penetration enhancers over ethoxylated fatty alcohol surfactants (steareth-2 and steareth-21).

[0192] Example 6: Lip Composition The following composition is a lip composition that includes a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and a smoothing agent (hyaluronic acid).

[0193] The formulations are detailed below in Table 8. Percentages are expressed by weight of the final composition.

[0194] [Table 8]

[0195] Application to the lips and the area around the lips provided a smoothing and plumping effect to the lips and surrounding areas.

[0196] Example 7: Skin smoothing composition The compositions below are fluid creams in the form of gelling water-in-oil emulsions containing a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and penetration enhancers (urea, PG-10 myristate and glyceryl stearate). The percentages are expressed as % by weight of the final formula (Table 9).

[0197] [Table 9]

[0198] The composition has a smoothing effect on crow's feet.

[0199] The penetration of polyglycerols (PG3, PG6) is enhanced by the combination of penetration enhancers (glycerol esters and betaines).

Claims

1. 1. A cosmetic process for smoothing the skin and / or lips and / or restoring volume to the face and / or lips and / or reducing and / or filling in wrinkles, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of a cosmetic care and / or makeup composition, The composition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1,000 g / mol; However, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component.

2. The composition comprises: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerin units, the INCI designation of which includes Polyglycerin-3, or Polyglycerin-4, or Polyglycerin-6, or Polyglycerin-10; a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, the INCI name of which includes Polyglycerol-4, or Polyglycerol-6, or Polyglycerol-10, and which is different from the INCI name of the polyglycerol of the first cosmetic ingredient; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, the INCI designations of which include Polyglycerin-3, or Polyglycerin-4, or Polyglycerin-6, or Polyglycerin-10; The cosmetic process according to claim 1.

3. The composition comprises: a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-10; The cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, comprising:

4. 3. The cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the composition has a total content of polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 3. The cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the composition further comprises at least one humectant, preferably a sugar such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably C2-C8 glycols such as glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition is particularly suitable for improving and / or promoting the penetration of cosmetic ingredients, in particular polyglycerol and possible polyols of the composition, into the skin, in particular hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), a fat solubilizer selected from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol, - glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids; - and mixtures thereof 3. The cosmetic process of claim 1 or claim 2, further comprising a penetration enhancer selected from the group consisting of:

7. 3. Cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the composition further comprises a skin smoothing agent, in particular one or more hyaluronic acids or one of their salts, and mixtures thereof.

8. 3. The cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the composition further comprises a film-forming polymer, in particular selected from the group consisting of synthetic or naturally occurring polymers, in particular vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, cellulose and its derivatives, polysaccharides and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

9. 3. Cosmetic process according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the care and / or makeup composition for the skin and / or lips is in the form of a lotion, gel or cream, for example a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, or a serum, preferably in the form of a gelled aqueous phase.

10. As an active combination for smoothing the skin, restoring volume to the face and / or lips, providing firmness and / or elasticity and / or reducing and / or filling in wrinkles, at least a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; and a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of.

11. hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), a fat solubilizer selected from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol, - glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids; - and mixtures thereof 11. The non-therapeutic cosmetic use of claim 10, further comprising a penetration enhancer selected from the group consisting of:

12. In a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 600 g / mol; a second cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 300 to 1000 g / mol; and optionally a third cosmetic ingredient different from the first cosmetic ingredient and the second cosmetic ingredient, the third cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and having an average molecular weight in the range of 200 to 1,000 g / mol; provided that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the second cosmetic component is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerol in the first cosmetic component, and additionally hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), a fat solubilizer selected from dimethyl isosorbide and ethanol, - glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably glycerol-based surfactants such as esters of mono- or poly-glycerol with C6-C24 fatty acids; - and mixtures thereof a penetration enhancer selected from the group consisting of 1. A cosmetic composition for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup comprising:

13. 13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the penetration enhancer is selected from hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine and trimethylglycine (betaine).

14. The composition comprises: a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-10, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name containing polyglycerin-10.

14. The cosmetic process according to claim 12 or claim 13, comprising:

15. The composition comprises: a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising Polyglycerin-6, and a penetration enhancer selected from hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine and trimethylglycine (betaine), preferably betaine, or a first cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, and a second cosmetic ingredient having an INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, and a penetration enhancer selected from hydrophilic molecules selected from urea and its derivatives, glycine and trimethylglycine (betaine), preferably urea. The cosmetic process of claim 14, comprising: