Woven or knitted fabric, clothing, and manufacturing method for woven or knitted fabric

Abstract

To provide a woven or knitted fabric which is excellent in breathability, unevenness and softness, a clothing, and a manufacturing method for the woven or knitted fabric.SOLUTION: A woven or knitted fabric at least partially containing a multifilament is provided, in which the multifilament contains a thermoplastic resin A, has alternating thick and thin parts along a longitudinal direction, has a mixed twist direction, and has a coefficient of variation (CV) of thickness of 5 to 30%, and a ratio of a fused part of a single yarn constituting the multifilament is 5% or less.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to knitted and woven fabrics, clothing, and a method for manufacturing knitted and woven fabrics.

Background Art

[0002] Among hemp materials characterized by breathability and unevenness, linen is a material characterized by softness. On the other hand, since hemp materials are prone to wrinkling, hemp-like synthetic fiber materials are in demand.

[0003] So far, as a synthetic fiber material having breathability and unevenness, for example, a non-fused processed yarn in which the twist direction changes in the longitudinal direction, as disclosed in Patent Document 1, has been proposed. Thereby, voids are generated in the knitted or woven fabric by partial converging portions, improving breathability. Since it is a non-fused processed yarn, softness is obtained, and since the twist direction changes, a morphological unevenness is obtained.

[0004] Further, Patent Document 2 proposes a false-twisted processed yarn in which real-twisted portions and crimped portions alternately exist in the longitudinal direction, the fineness of the real-twisted portions is 1.1 times or more the average fineness of the false-twisted processed yarn, and the fineness of the crimped portions is 0.93 times or less the average fineness of the false-twisted processed yarn. Thereby, breathability is improved as in Patent Document 1, and since a dyeing difference occurs according to the fineness difference, an unevenness in color tone is obtained.

Prior Art Documents

Patent Documents

[0005]

Patent Document 1

Patent Document 2

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0006] However, although the technology disclosed in Patent Document 1 has breathability and softness, the unevenness in color is caused only by the change in twist density, and there is a problem that the color tone becomes monotonous.

[0007] In addition, in the technology disclosed in Patent Document 2, since the solid twist portions and the crimped portions are alternately present in the longitudinal direction, the yarn converges partially, and further, since there is a difference in fineness of the yarn, although it is excellent in breathability and unevenness, there is a problem that softness cannot be obtained because it has a fused portion.

[0008] The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide a woven or knitted fabric, clothing, and a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric that are excellent in breathability, unevenness, and softness.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0009] The present invention has the following configuration. [1] A woven or knitted fabric containing at least a part of multifilament, wherein the multifilament contains a thermoplastic resin A, has thick portions and thin portions alternately along the longitudinal direction, and the twist directions are mixed, the coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness is 5 to 30%, and the ratio of the fused portions of the single filaments constituting the multifilament is 5% or less, a woven or knitted fabric. [2] The woven or knitted fabric according to [1], wherein the coefficient of variation (CV) of L* in the thick portion is 5 to 20%. [3] The woven or knitted fabric according to [1] or [2], wherein the strength of the multifilament is 1.5 cN / dtex or more. [4] Clothing containing at least a part of the woven or knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [3]. [5] A process of stretching a raw yarn in which the inner layer of the single filament is a thermoplastic resin A and the surface layer is a thermoplastic resin B and Tpm B ≦Tpm A -15 (°C) under the conditions of formula (1), a process of fusion false-twisting the obtained stretched raw yarn under the heater conditions of formula (2), A step of knitting or weaving using the obtained tow The method for producing a knitted or woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [3], comprising a step of eluting the thermoplastic resin B. Formula (1): NDR × 0.75 ≦ DR1 ≦ NDR × 0.95 Formula (2): Tpm B -50 ≦ H1 ≦ Tpm B -20 (°C) (NDR: natural draw ratio, DR1: pin draw ratio, Tpm A : melting point of thermoplastic resin A, Tpm B : melting point of thermoplastic resin B, H1: first heater temperature) [6] In the stretching step, after stretching two or more raw yarns under the conditions of formula (1) respectively, before the step of fusion false twisting, the method for producing a knitted or woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [3], comprising a step of combining the yarns by interlacing.

Advantages of the Invention

[0010] According to the present invention, a knitted or woven fabric excellent in air permeability, unevenness, and softness can be obtained. In particular, clothing using the knitted or woven fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for items worn as fashion clothing, for example, clothing such as jackets, bottoms, shirts, and stoles.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0011]

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention

[0012] The present invention relates to a knitted or woven fabric containing at least a part of multifilaments, wherein the multifilaments contain a thermoplastic resin A, have thick and thin portions alternately along the longitudinal direction, the twist direction of the thick portion and the twist direction of the thin portion are opposite, the coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness is 5 to 30%, and the ratio of the fused portion of the single filaments constituting the multifilaments is 5% or less.

[0013] The present invention will be described in detail below. However, the present invention is not limited to the scope described below as long as the gist thereof is not exceeded.

[0014] [Knitted or woven fabric] The knitted or woven fabric of the present invention contains at least a part of multifilaments. By including multifilaments in the knitted or woven fabric, the breathability and unevenness, which are the characteristics of the present invention, can be obtained. The ratio of the multifilaments is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the knitted or woven fabric. It is also a preferred embodiment that all of the fibers constituting the knitted or woven fabric are made of multifilaments.

[0015] The fabric structure of the knitted or woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. As the woven fabric texture, it is selected from plain weave, twill weave, crepe weave, and their modified textures according to the texture and design. Furthermore, a multi-layer woven texture such as double weave may be used. As the knitted fabric texture, it may be selected according to the desired texture and design. In weft knitting, examples include jersey knitting, rubber knitting, pearl knitting, tuck knitting, float knitting, lace knitting, and their modified textures. In warp knitting, examples include single denim knitting, single bandage knitting, single cord knitting, Berlin knitting, double denim knitting, atlas knitting, cord knitting, half tricot knitting, satin knitting, sharkskin knitting, and their modified textures. Among these, in order to have a delicate linen-like texture and a natural unevenness, a relatively simple knitted or woven structure such as plain weave or its modified texture, twill weave or its modified texture, satin weave, etc. is more preferable.

[0016] [Multifilaments] The multifilament is obtained through an elution process by using, as a knitted or woven fabric, a yarn bundle obtained by subjecting a raw yarn obtained by melt spinning to false-twist texturing.

[0017] The multifilament has thick portions and thin portions alternating along the longitudinal direction, and the twisting directions are mixed. Here, the "thick portions" and "thin portions" refer to portions thicker than the average value × 0.9 and portions thinner than the average value × 0.9, respectively, with respect to the diameter in the longitudinal direction when observed in a state where the multifilament is twisted with a twist coefficient of 10,000. For example, FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a state in which the multifilament extracted from the knitted or woven fabric is twisted with a twist coefficient of 10,000 in the same direction as the false-twist direction to converge the entire multifilament. Portions where the diameter average value × 0.9 ≥ the diameter, such as D1, are defined as thin portions, and portions where the diameter average value × 0.9 < the diameter, such as D2 and D3, are defined as thick portions. Due to the mixing of such twisting forms, when made into a knitted or woven fabric, it has a natural uneven feeling similar to linen, and also has fine voids, resulting in excellent air permeability.

[0018] Also, when the ratio of the total length of the thick portions to the total length is defined as the thick portion ratio, the thick portion ratio of the multifilament is preferably 10 to 40%. When the thick portion ratio is 10 to 40%, a more linen-like uneven feeling and higher air permeability can be obtained. The thick portion ratio can be measured by the method described in the examples.

[0019] Also, the fact that the twisting directions are mixed means a state in which S-direction twists and Z-direction twists alternately exist in the longitudinal direction of the multifilament.

[0020] The coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness of the multifilament is 3 to 30%. If the coefficient of variation of the thickness is less than 3%, it is uniformly dyed and lacks an uneven feeling, and 5% or more is preferable. Also, if it exceeds 30%, the operability deteriorates, and 20% or less is preferable. The coefficient of variation (CV) can be measured by the method described in the examples. As a method for setting the coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness of the multifilament within the above range, as described later, there is a method of stretching the raw yarn under specific conditions, etc.

[0021] The ratio of the fused parts of the monofilaments constituting the multifilament is 5% or less, preferably 1% or less. If the ratio of the fused parts exceeds 5%, the stiffness becomes strong and softness cannot be obtained. Here, the "ratio of the fused parts of the monofilaments" refers to the ratio of the number of monofilaments that are fused to each other in the cross section to the total number of monofilaments constituting the multifilament. It is also a preferred state that the ratio of the fused parts is 0%. The ratio of the fused parts can be measured by the method described in the examples. As a method of setting the ratio of the fused parts of the monofilaments within the above range, as described later, there are a method of eluting the easily elutable components on the surface of the yarn bundle, a method of lowering the heater temperature during yarn processing to reduce the fused parts, and the like.

[0022] The multifilament preferably has a total fineness of 20 to 500 dtex and a monofilament fineness of 0.5 to 5.0 dtex. By the range of the total fineness, the weight of the woven or knitted fabric can be set within an appropriate range as clothing, and by the range of the monofilament fineness, a linen-like soft feeling can be obtained.

[0023] The multifilament may be twisted. The twist coefficient of the twisted yarn is 1,200 to 25,000. By using the above multifilament as a twisted yarn and setting the twist coefficient within the above range, the air permeability is improved while maintaining softness. The twist coefficient is preferably 5,000 to 20,000. Here, the twist coefficient can be calculated by the following formula. Twist coefficient (K) = Twist number (T / m) × √(Fineness (dtex) × 0.9).

[0024] The coefficient of variation (CV) of L* in the thick part of the multifilament is preferably 5 to 20%. When the coefficient of variation (CV) of L* is 5% or more, a mottled feeling with a multi-step change in color tone after dyeing can be obtained. On the other hand, when the coefficient of variation (CV) of L* is 20% or less, a more linen-like natural mottled feeling can be obtained. The coefficient of variation (CV) of L* is more preferably 6 to 15%. The coefficient of variation (CV) of L* can be measured by the method described in the examples. As a method of setting the coefficient of variation (CV) of L* within the above range, as described later, in the stretching step, after stretching two or more raw yarns under specific conditions respectively, before the heating step, a method of combining the yarns by interlacing, etc. can be mentioned.

[0025] The strength of the multifilament is preferably 1.5 cN / dtex or more, and more preferably 1.9 cN / dtex or more. Also, the upper limit of the strength is not particularly limited, but when it is 10 cN / dtex or less, a soft texture is easily obtained. When the strength is 1.5 cN / dtex or more, sufficient strength can be obtained as a woven or knitted fabric. As a method of setting the strength to 1.5 cN / dtex or more, as described later, using raw yarns composed of thermoplastic resin A and thermoplastic resin B, a method of increasing the alkali resistance of thermoplastic resin A, a method of using a component that easily elutes as thermoplastic resin B, etc. can be mentioned.

[0026] [Thermoplastic resin A] The multifilaments constituting the knitted or woven fabric of the present invention contain a thermoplastic resin A. By containing the thermoplastic resin A, set properties due to heat are generated and dimensional stability is obtained. Examples of the thermoplastic resin A include resins having thermoplasticity such as polyester, polyamide, and polyolefin. These thermoplastic resins A may be a mixture using a plurality of types, or may be composite-spun such as core-sheath or side-by-side. Among them, polyester-based resins are preferable from the viewpoints of processability and dimensional stability. Specific examples thereof include polyethylene terephthalate-based resins in which the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate-based resins in which the main repeating unit is trimethylene terephthalate, or polybutylene terephthalate-based resins in which the main repeating unit is butylene terephthalate. Here, "the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate" means that the proportion of the structure derived from ethylene terephthalate contained in the repeating unit is 60 mol% or more. The same applies hereinafter.

[0027] The above-mentioned polyethylene terephthalate-based resin, polytrimethylene terephthalate-based resin, and polybutylene terephthalate-based resin may have a small amount (usually less than 30 mol% (amount relative to a total of 100 mol% of acid component and diol component)) of copolymerization components as necessary. When the copolymerization component of the thermoplastic resin A is 8 mol% or less, it is preferable because softness can be easily obtained while maintaining strength even after alkali weight reduction. Further, preferably, the copolymerization component of the thermoplastic resin A is 5 mol% or less, and more preferably, it is a polyethylene terephthalate resin in which no copolymerization component is contained in the thermoplastic resin A. By using polyethylene terephthalate containing no copolymerization component, it is excellent in strength and also excellent in alkali resistance.

[0028] In addition, the thermoplastic resin A may contain one or more of a microporous forming agent, a cationic dyeable agent, an anti-coloring agent, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant, a fluorescent brightening agent, a matting agent, a coloring agent, an antistatic agent, a moisture absorbent, an antibacterial agent, inorganic fine particles, etc. within a range not impairing the object of the present invention.

[0029] Clothing The clothing of the present invention includes at least a part of the knitted fabric of the present invention. By doing so, it is possible to obtain clothing having the linen-like breathability, unevenness, and softness of the knitted fabric of the present invention. The clothing of the present invention refers to items worn as fashion clothing, sports clothing, and outdoor clothing, particularly jackets, suits, bottoms, shirts, stoles, and parts thereof, for example, the front body, the back body, the collar part, the sleeve part, the chest pocket, the side pocket, etc., as well as innerwear, socks, hats, etc.

[0030] [Manufacturing method of knitted fabric] Next, an example of a preferred manufacturing method of the knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.

[0031] The multifilament constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention can be manufactured by subjecting a raw yarn composed of a thermoplastic resin A and a thermoplastic resin B to a melt-bonding false-twisting process, obtaining a yarn thus obtained as a knitted fabric, performing alkali weight reduction, and dissolving the thermoplastic resin B. That is, it includes a step of stretching the raw yarn, a step of false-twisting, a step of knitting, and a step of elution under predetermined conditions using the false-twisting device illustrated in FIG. 2.

[0032] [Spinning step] First, the raw yarn used in the stretching step will be described. First, the thermoplastic resin A and the thermoplastic resin B are each melted, discharged from a known core-sheath type spinneret, and wound up as an unstretched yarn or a semi-drawn yarn at a spinning speed of preferably 1400 m / min to 3800 m / min. In the present invention, it is preferable to set the spinning speed to 2500 m / min to 3800 m / min and wind it up as a semi-drawn yarn.

[0033] In the present invention, it is preferable to use a semi-drawn yarn as the yarn because a stable pattern of fusion is formed. Since the semi-drawn yarn has progressed crystallization compared to the unstretched yarn, the change in the amount of fusion with respect to the processing temperature is insensitive and easy to control.

[0034] By using thermoplastic resins with different inner and outer layers of single filaments as the base filaments, a difference can be provided in the weight loss rate due to alkali treatment, and the resin on the surface layer can be selectively removed in the elution process. The thermoplastic resin B used for the surface layer where the surface layer is the thermoplastic resin B is a thermoplastic resin with a faster weight loss rate due to alkali treatment than the thermoplastic resin A used for the inner layer. The thermoplastic resin B can be the same as the thermoplastic resin A except that it contains a copolymerization component for improving the weight loss rate.

[0035] Also, the weight loss rate ratio due to alkali treatment of the thermoplastic resin B to the thermoplastic resin A (weight loss rate of the thermoplastic resin B / weight loss rate of the thermoplastic resin A) is preferably 50 times or more. As an example of a thermoplastic resin having a high weight loss rate, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5 - 10 mol% of 5 - sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the total dicarboxylic acid component and 5 - 15 wt% of polyethylene glycol based on the total weight can be mentioned. By setting the weight loss rate ratio as described above, the thermoplastic resin B is preferentially eluted by the alkali treatment described later, damage to the thermoplastic resin A can be suppressed, and the strength of the multifilament can be increased.

[0036] Also, as described later, the melting point (Tpm B ) of the thermoplastic resin B is preferably 15°C or more lower than the melting point (Tmp A ) of the thermoplastic resin A. By setting the melting point difference as described above, a yarn can be obtained without causing a decrease in the strength of the thermoplastic resin A.

[0037] In addition, the thermoplastic resin B in the present invention may contain one or more of a microporous forming agent, a cationic dyeable agent, an anti - coloring agent, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant, a fluorescent brightening agent, a matting agent, a coloring agent, an antistatic agent, a moisture absorbent, an antibacterial agent, inorganic fine particles, etc. within a range that does not impair the object of the present invention.

[0038] The spinning temperature is the melting points (Tpm A , Tpm BFor (Tpm A 、Tpm B ), it is preferably in the range of +20°C to +50°C for both. By being +20°C or higher, it is possible to prevent the molten thermoplastic resin A and thermoplastic resin B from solidifying and blocking in the spinning machine piping. On the other hand, (Tpm A 、Tpm B ) by being +50°C or lower, it is possible to suppress the thermal degradation of the molten thermoplastic resin A and thermoplastic resin B.

[0039] The single filament of the raw yarn is composed of 50% or more of the thermoplastic resin B on the surface, preferably 90% or more of the single filament surface is the thermoplastic resin B, and it is also a preferred state that the thermoplastic resin B covers the entire single filament surface. The composite form may be a substantially core-sheath type, a substantially eccentric core-sheath type, a sea-island type, etc., as long as it satisfies the ratio of the thermoplastic resin B on the surface of the above single filament.

[0040] The area (S A ) of the thermoplastic resin A and the area (S B ) of the thermoplastic resin B, the ratio S A :S B is preferably 60:40 to 95:5, more preferably 70:30 to 90:10. By setting this composite ratio, the thermoplastic resin B can be stably arranged on the surface of the single filament and the strength can be maintained.

[0041] The raw yarn preferably has an NDR (natural draw ratio) of 1.3 to 2.0 and an MDR (maximum draw ratio) of 1.5 to 3.0. By satisfying the above ranges of NDR and MDR, it is possible to process under arbitrary drawing conditions while maintaining the stability of the yarn processing.

[0042] The cross-sectional shape of the raw yarn is not particularly limited, and cross-sectional shapes such as circular, elliptical, and triangular can be adopted, but a circular shape is more preferable because a stable yarn can be obtained.

[0043] The spinneret used in the method for manufacturing the raw yarn may have any known internal structure as long as it can spin stably in terms of quality and operation.

[0044] [Stretching process] The monofilament prepared in the spinning process, with the inner layer being thermoplastic resin A and the surface layer being thermoplastic resin B, and Tpm B ≦Tpm A The raw yarn with - 15 (°C) is stretched under the conditions of the following formula (1). Formula (1): NDR × 0.75 ≦ DR1 ≦ NDR × 0.95 Here, NDR is the natural draw ratio of the raw yarn, MDR is the breaking draw ratio, and DR1 is the pin draw ratio. That is, as shown in Figure 2, the tow (1) is heated and stretched by the hot pin (3) between the first feed roller (2) and the second feed roller (4).

[0045] Regarding formula (1), by setting NDR × 0.75 ≦ DR1 ≦ NDR × 0.95, thickness unevenness can be imparted to the multifilament, and the coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness can be set to 3 - 30%. Therefore, a natural uneven feeling due to dyeing difference can be obtained. Also, the thickness unevenness obtained by DR1 has an orientation difference, and the thick part is less oriented than the thin part, so it can be selectively fused. That is, the fusing pattern can be stabilized by DR1, and the fusing amount can be controlled by further adjusting DR1. When DR1 is below NDR × 0.95, thick and thin parts can be provided in the multifilament, and the coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness can be increased. When DR1 is above NDR × 0.75, thick and thin parts can be stably obtained. The range of DR1 is preferably NDR × 0.78 ≦ DR1 ≦ NDR × 0.90.

[0046] [Fusing false - twisting process] Next, the obtained stretched raw yarn is fused and false - twisted under the heater conditions of formula (2). Formula (2): Tpm B -50 ≦ H1 ≦ Tpm B -20 (°C) Here, H1 is the temperature of the first heater. Specifically, stretching (DR2) is performed between the second feed roller (4) and the third feed roller (8), and at the same time, fusing and false - twisting processing is carried out by the first heater (5), the cooling plate (6), and the twister (7).

[0047] Regarding formula (2), TpmB By setting -50 ≤ H1, the thermoplastic resin B can be fused, and H1 ≤ Tpm B By setting it to -20 (°C), only the thermoplastic resin B is fused, and by eluting the thermoplastic resin B in the subsequent alkali treatment, the fusion between single filaments disappears and a soft texture is obtained. H1 is Tpm B -35 ≤ H1 ≤ Tpm B -25 is more preferable.

[0048] Also, by setting MDR × 0.55 ≤ DR1 × DR2 ≤ MDR × 0.70, the orientation crystallization can proceed sufficiently and the strength of the yarn can be increased. For example, a semi-drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min to 3800 m / min is drawn at a yarn speed of 100 to 800 m / min at the pin draw ratio (DR1) and hot pin temperature of 70 to 120 °C described below, and then subjected to false twisting at the heater draw ratio (DR2) and heater temperature of 180 to 220 °C described below (an example of the conditions: a semi-drawn yarn obtained by composite spinning at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min (Tpm A : 257 °C, Tpm B : 230 °C, NDR: 1.6, MDR: 2.8) is drawn at a yarn speed of 400 m / min at a pin draw ratio of 1.3 times and a hot pin temperature of 80 °C, and then false twisted at a heater draw ratio of 1.30 times and a heater temperature of 200 °C) to obtain a yarn bundle.

[0049] Also, in the stretching step, after stretching two or more raw yarns under the conditions of formula (1) respectively, before the step of fusion false twisting, it is preferable to combine the yarns by interlacing. That is, using a false twisting device as exemplified in FIG. 3, two or more raw yarns are each drawn by a pin and then intertwined by an interlacing nozzle, and then a yarn bundle can be obtained by the above method. That is, in addition to the device of FIG. 2, the raw yarn 2(12) is heated and drawn (DR1) by the hot pin (3) between the first feed roller (13) and the second feed roller (4) of the raw yarn 2, combined with the raw yarn by the interlacing nozzle (15), and subjected to fusion false twisting.

[0050] By separately pin-drawing two or more base yarns and then combining them, the patterns of unevenness in the thickness of each base yarn are shifted, resulting in multi-stage dyeing differences during dyeing and obtaining a more natural uneven feeling. Especially when fusing, since there are a mixture of fusion parts composed of the thick parts of each base yarn and fusion parts composed of thick and thin parts, dye unevenness can be obtained. The two or more base yarns may be of different types or the same type of base yarn.

[0051] Furthermore, it is also an important step to combine each base yarn into one by an interlacing nozzle after separately pin-drawing them. By causing migration between the single yarns of each base yarn by the interlacing nozzle, a plurality of base yarns can be stably fused.

[0052] Furthermore, a wound yarn bundle can be obtained at the winding part (11). Also, for torque adjustment, heat setting may be performed using the second heater (9) between the third feed roller (8) and the fourth feed roller (10).

[0053] [Weaving and knitting process] Next, weaving and knitting are performed using the yarn bundle after fusion false twisting. In the case of a woven fabric, it is woven using an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a repair loom, a projectile loom, a shuttle loom, etc. In the case of a knitted fabric, it is knitted using a weft knitting machine such as a flat knitting machine, a full fashion knitting machine, a circular knitting machine, a computer jacquard knitting machine, a sock knitting machine, a tubular knitting machine, or a warp knitting machine such as a tricot knitting machine, a raschel knitting machine, an air jet loom, a milanese knitting machine.

[0054] The process tension during the production of the woven or knitted fabric is preferably controlled to be 0.6 times or less of the fusion breaking stress of the yarn so that the form of the yarn is maintained and air permeability is easily obtained.

[0055] [Elution process] Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric obtained in the above-described woven or knitted fabric forming process is alkali-treated so that the weight reduction rate is -5 to 20% of the composite ratio of the thermoplastic resin B, more preferably +0 to 5% of the composite ratio of the thermoplastic resin B, to elute the thermoplastic resin B. By eluting the thermoplastic resin B, the stiffness due to fusion can be eliminated and a soft texture can be obtained.

[0056] For the alkali weight reduction step, a batch-type weight reduction process (e.g., liquid flow weight reduction) that can easily obtain a soft texture due to the kneading effect is preferred.

[0057] [Dyeing process] Furthermore, if necessary, before and / or after the above alkali treatment step, or simultaneously, conventional scouring, relaxation treatment, intermediate heat setting, dyeing, and finishing heat setting may be performed (in the present invention, these processes may be collectively referred to as the "dyeing process").

[0058] Dyeing depends on the dyeability of the thermoplastic resin A or other yarns that may be contained in the woven or knitted fabric, and is preferably performed in a dyeing solution at 100 to 130°C using disperse dyes, cationic dyes, or acid dyes. Since the above-mentioned multifilament has uneven thickness with an orientation difference in the longitudinal direction, the dyeing property of the dye is different in the longitudinal direction in the dyeing process, and a natural uneven feeling can be obtained. [Examples]

[0059] Next, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to these examples. In addition, in the measurement of each physical property, those without special description were measured based on the methods described above.

[0060] [Measurement method] (1) Melting point of thermoplastic resin According to JIS K7121:2012, the melting peak temperature (Tpm) was measured. The sample was dried in a vacuum dryer to a moisture content of 200 ppm or less, about 5 mg was weighed, and a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) "Q2000" type manufactured by TA Instruments was used to heat from 0°C to 300°C at a heating rate of 16°C / min, and then held at 300°C for 5 minutes for DSC measurement. The measurement was performed 3 times for each sample, and the average value was taken as the melting point. When multiple melting peaks were observed, the melting peak on the lowest temperature side was used.

[0061] (2) Weight reduction rate ratio of thermoplastic resin The thermoplastic resin was dried under vacuum until the moisture content was 200 ppm or less, and melt-spun at a temperature of the melting point (Tpm) + 30°C to produce a multifilament having a fineness of 84 dtex and 36 filaments (elongation: 30 - 40%). A knitted fabric was then produced. The knitted fabric was subjected to an alkali treatment in a 10 g / L aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 90°C for 20 minutes, and the weight loss rate was determined by the following formula. Weight loss rate (%) = (weight before alkali treatment - weight after alkali treatment) / weight before alkali treatment × 100 From the weight loss rates of the thermoplastic resin A and the thermoplastic resin B, the weight loss rate ratio was determined by the following formula. Weight loss rate ratio = weight loss rate of thermoplastic resin B / weight loss rate of thermoplastic resin A.

[0062] (3) NDR and MDR of the raw yarn Using a tensile testing machine ("AG-IS" manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), in accordance with JIS L1013:2010, with a gripping interval of 5 cm and a tensile speed of 40 cm / min, the load-elongation curve (S-S curve) was measured for the raw yarn. NDR was defined as the value obtained by dividing the maximum sample length in the constant stress elongation region where elongation occurs at a constant stress on the S-S curve by the original length. MDR was defined as the value obtained by dividing the sample length at the point indicating the breaking strength in the S-S curve by the original length. The measurement was performed 5 times for each sample, and the average value was determined.

[0063] (4) Thick part ratio and coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness The multifilament extracted from the woven or knitted fabric was twisted with a twist coefficient of 10,000 in the same direction as the twist direction of the false twist to converge the entire multifilament. The multifilament after twisting was fixed under a load of 0.11 cN / dtex, and in an image taken with a digital microscope "VHX-2000" manufactured by Keyence Corporation at a magnification of 200 times of the side of the fixed sample, the diameter of the multifilament was measured 500 times at intervals of 1.0 mm continuously in the longitudinal direction, and the average value was determined. The part with a diameter thicker than the average value × 0.9 was defined as the thick part, and the part with a diameter thinner than the average value × 0.9 was defined as the thin part. The ratio of the total length of the thick part to the total length of the measurement part was defined as the thick part ratio. The measurement was performed at 5 arbitrary locations on the woven or knitted fabric, and the average value was taken as the thick part ratio.

[0064] In addition, the coefficient of variation (CV) = standard deviation (σ) / average value × 100 (%) was determined from the obtained diameters. The coefficient of variation of the thickness was determined to one decimal place by rounding off the second decimal place.

[0065] (5) Mixing of twist directions The multi-filament extracted from the woven or knitted fabric was fixed under a load of 0.11 cN / dtex, and the twist direction was confirmed in an image taken at a magnification of 200 times with a digital microscope “VHX-2000” manufactured by KEYENCE CORPORATION on the side surface of the fixed sample. When the twist direction is continuous for 30 cm or more, the mixing of the twist direction is considered “none”, and when the twist direction changes within a length of less than 30 cm, the mixing of the twist direction is considered “present”.

[0066] (6) Ratio of fused parts From an image obtained by observing the cross-section of the thick part of the multi-filament extracted from the woven or knitted fabric at a magnification of 150 times or more with a scanning electron microscope (SEM), the total number of single filaments constituting the multi-filament and the number of fused single filaments were counted, and the ratio of the fused part was calculated as the number of fused single filaments / total number of single filaments × 100. The observation was carried out at 5 locations in the longitudinal direction, and the ratio was obtained as an integer by rounding off the first decimal place of the average value.

[0067] (7) Strength The multi-filament extracted from the woven or knitted fabric was used with a tensile tester “AG-IS” manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, and in accordance with JIS L1013:2010, the gripping interval was 10 cm and the tensile speed was 10 cm / min, and the load-elongation curve was measured to determine the strength. The measurement was carried out 5 times for each sample, and the average value was taken as the strength.

[0068] (8) Coefficient of variation (CV) of L* of the thick part The multifilaments extracted from the woven or knitted fabric dyed by the method of Example 1 described below were discriminated between the thick and thin parts by the method of (4), fixed under a load of 0.11 cN / dtex, and the side of the fixed sample was photographed at a magnification of 200 times with a digital microscope "VHX-2000" manufactured by Keyence Corporation. The obtained image was color-printed on high-quality paper with a resolution of 300 dpi or more, 256 gradations, and a whiteness of 80% or more using a multifunction machine "C5570" manufactured by Fujifilm Corporation. The color tone (L*) of the thick part was measured at 100 points at intervals of 5.0 mm of the multifilament using a colorimeter "CM-2600d" manufactured by Konica Minolta Inc., and the coefficient of variation (CV) = standard deviation (σ) / average value × 100 (%) was determined. The coefficient of variation of the thick part L* was determined to one decimal place by rounding the second decimal place. When the thick part was short, the measurement was performed across a plurality of thick parts.

[0069] (9) Air permeability Measured by the "Frazee method" of JIS L1096:2010 8.26.1 Method A. The measurement was performed 3 times for each sample, and the integer value was obtained by rounding the first decimal place of the average value.

[0070] (10) Bending stiffness (gf / cm 2 / cm) Using "KES-FB2-S" manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., in a standard test by the KES method, 3 locations were arbitrarily sampled in a size of 10 cm square, and the bending stiffness B (gf / cm 2 / cm) was measured in the warp direction and the weft direction, and the average value was determined. At this time, the torque sensitivity (SENS) in the system was set to "2×1" (standard), and the measurement was performed under the conditions of a maximum curvature of ±2.5 (cm -1 ), 25 °C, and a humidity of 60%. The bending stiffness was determined to three decimal places by rounding the fourth decimal place. The smaller the value of this bending stiffness, the better the softness.

[0071] (11) Natural unevenness The knitted and woven fabric obtained in the examples was visually evaluated by 10 healthy adults (5 males and 5 females) as evaluators. The natural unevenness of the knitted and woven fabric was visually evaluated on a 5-point scale, with a natural linen-like unevenness being 5 points and a state with no unevenness being 1 point. The average value of each examiner was rounded to the first decimal place by rounding the second decimal place. For comparison, a linen (80s count) fabric was rated 5 points, and a fabric made of drawn yarn of polyethylene terephthalate with the same total fineness and the same number of filaments as in the examples and comparative examples was rated 1 point.

[0072] [Example 1] As thermoplastic resin A, polyethylene terephthalate (PET, Tmp A : 257 °C), as thermoplastic resin B, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the total dicarboxylic acid component and 9 wt% of polyethylene glycol based on the total weight (copolymerized PET1, Tmp B : 230 °C), and at a spinning temperature of 280 °C, the thermoplastic resin A was introduced into a core-sheath die with 36 holes so that the mass composite ratio of thermoplastic resin A and thermoplastic resin B was 80:20. The weight loss rate ratio of this thermoplastic resin A and thermoplastic resin B was 100. The thermoplastic resin discharged from the die was cooled by an air-cooling device, oil was applied, and then wound up by a winder at a speed of 2600 m / min to stably obtain a semi-drawn yarn with a total fineness of 240 dtex - 36 filaments per single yarn, NDR: 1.6, and MDR: 2.8.

[0073] Subsequently, the obtained raw yarn was fed from a feed roller using a friction false-twisting machine (ATF21: manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd.), and false twisting was performed at a processing speed of 400 m / min, a pin stretching ratio (DR1) of 1.30 times, a pin temperature of 80 °C, a heater stretching ratio (DR2) of 1.30 times, and a heater temperature (H1) of 200 °C to obtain a yarn with a fineness of 142 dtex.

[0074] Next, the above false-twisted yarn was used as warp and weft, and a plain-woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 105 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 90 threads / 2.54 cm.

[0075] Furthermore, this fabric was subjected to scouring, relaxation treatment, and intermediate heat setting. Thereafter, alkali weight reduction processing (weight reduction rate: 20%, the same as the ratio of thermoplastic resin B) was performed to dissolve the fused portions of the monofilaments. Further, as a dyeing step, it was dyed at a concentration of 1.0 owf% using the disperse dye "Dystar Navy Blue S-GL" at a temperature of 130°C for 30 minutes, and a finishing heat setting was performed at 160°C. At this time, there were no fused portions in the multifilaments in the obtained fabric, the twist directions were mixed, and the coefficient of variation (CV%) of the thickness was 6.0. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0076] [Example 2] In Example 1, the total fineness of the semi-drawn yarn was 120 dtex and the number of filaments was 18. Using two of the obtained raw yarns, each was drawn at a pin draw ratio of 1.30 times and then combined with an interlacing nozzle to obtain a yarn and a fabric in the same manner as in Example 1. At this time, the coefficient of variation (CV%) of L* at the converging portion of the multifilaments in the obtained fabric was 6.5. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0077] [Example 3] In Example 1, as thermoplastic resin B, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the total dicarboxylic acid component (copolymerized PET2, Tmp B : 240°C) was used, and the weight reduction rate ratio of thermoplastic resin A to thermoplastic resin B was 10. Further, a yarn and a fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heater temperature (H1) was 210°C. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0078] [Example 4] In Example 1, a yarn and a fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that thermoplastic resin A was a side-by-side type of polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 25000 and polyethylene terephthalate with a weight average molecular weight of 15000. The elongation rate of the obtained fabric was 15% in the warp direction and 20% in the weft direction, and it had excellent stretchability. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0079] [Example 5] Yarn and fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the pin draw ratio (DR1) was 1.20 times and the heater draw ratio (DR2) was 1.40 times. The thick part ratio of the fabric was as low as 15%. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0080] [Example 6] Yarn and fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the pin draw ratio (DR1) was 1.50 times and the heater draw ratio (DR2) was 1.12 times. The thick part ratio of the obtained fabric was as high as 25%, and the fabric had enhanced air permeability. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0081] [Example 7] False-twisted yarn and fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the heater temperature (H1) was 220°C. The thick part ratio of the obtained fabric was as high as 30%, and the fabric had enhanced air permeability. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0082] [Comparative Example 1] Yarn and fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the pin draw ratio (DR1) was not performed and the heater draw ratio (DR2) was 1.69 times. The coefficient of variation (CV%) of the multi-filament thickness in the obtained fabric was 2.2%, and there was no dyeing unevenness, so the appearance had a lack of natural unevenness. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0083] [Comparative Example 2] Yarn and fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the raw yarn was composed only of thermoplastic resin A. The obtained fabric had a fused part even after alkali treatment and was rough. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0084] [Comparative Example 3] False-twisted yarn and fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the heater temperature (H1) was 170°C. The obtained fabric did not have a fused part even in the process of fused false twisting, so there was no mixture of twist directions in the multi-filaments in the fabric after the elution process, and it was inferior in terms of linen-like unevenness. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0085]

Table 1

[0086]

Table 2

Explanation of Symbols

[0087] 1: Base yarn 2: First feed roller 3: Hot pin 4: Second feed roller 5: First heater 6: Cooling plate 7: Twister 8: Third feed roller 9: Second heater 10: Fourth feed roller 11: Take-up section 12: Base yarn 2 13: First feed roller of base yarn 2 14: Hot pin of base yarn 2 15: Intermingling nozzle D1: Portion where the average value of the diameter × 0.9 ≥ the diameter D2: Average value of the diameter × 0.9 <直径の部分D3: Average value of diameter × 0.9< / 直径の部分

Claims

1. A knitted or woven fabric containing at least a part of multifilaments, wherein the multifilaments contain a thermoplastic resin A, alternately have thick portions and thin portions along the longitudinal direction, and the twisting directions are mixed, the coefficient of variation (CV) of the thickness is 5 to 30%, and the ratio of the fused portions of the monofilaments constituting the multifilaments is 5% or less. A knitted or woven fabric.

2. The knitted or woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the coefficient of variation (CV) of L* in the thick portion is 5 to 20%.

3. The knitted or woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the strength of the multifilaments is 1.5 cN / dtex or more.

4. Clothing containing at least a part of the knitted or woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2.

5. The inner layer of the single filament is a thermoplastic resin A, and the surface layer is a thermoplastic resin B, and Tpm Ｂ ≤ Tpm Ａ A step of stretching a raw yarn having a temperature of -15 (°C) under the conditions of formula (1) A step of fusion false-twisting the obtained drawn yarn under the heater conditions of formula (2), a step of knitting or weaving using the obtained yarn bundle, and a method for producing the knitted or woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, including a step of eluting the thermoplastic resin B. Formula (1): NDR × 0.75 ≤ DR1 ≤ NDR × 0.95 Formula (2): Tpm Ｂ -50 ≤ H1 ≤ Tpm Ｂ -20 (°C) (NDR: Natural Draw Ratio, DR1: Pin Draw Ratio, Tpm Ａ : Melting point of thermoplastic resin A, Tpm Ｂ : Melting point of thermoplastic resin B, H1: First heater temperature)

6. In the stretching step, after stretching two or more yarns under the conditions of formula (1) respectively, before the step of fusion false-twisting, a step of combining the yarns by interlacing is included. A method for producing the knitted or woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2.

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