Cosmetic use of combinations of immortelle extracts to reduce the visibility of pores - Patents.com

Abstract

The present specification relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of immortel extracts, namely immortel essential oil of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of the distillation residue of the species Helichrysum italicum, for reducing the visibility of pores and / or tightening pores.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present application relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of extracts of Immortel, namely Immortel essential oil and a subcritical water extract of Immortel distillation residue, for reducing the visibility of pores and / or tightening pores. [Background technology]

[0002] Pores are small openings on the surface of the skin whose physiological role is to allow the evacuation of sweat and sebum. They communicate with the sebaceous glands, often via hair follicles that end in a single, very short excretory duct. The sebaceous glands are located in the dermis, a connective tissue that consists of extracellular matrix (ECM) such as fibrous proteins (collagen, elastin), glycosaminoglycans, and proteoglycans, as well as cells such as fibroblasts. The excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands reach the surface of the epidermis. The dermis and epidermis are separated from each other by a basement membrane that constitutes the dermal-epidermal junction. The latter is a complex structure whose main component is type IV collagen. With age, degradation of type I collagen, the main component of the ECM, is triggered, and the latter's support function is less fulfilled, resulting in deformation of the excretory duct and dilation of the pores. In addition, the decrease in type IV collagen content with age leads to deleterious changes in the basement membrane, which tends to flatten, causing dilation of the pores and making them more visible.

[0003] Enlarged pores can have causes other than skin aging, particularly poor hygiene, climatic or ethnic factors, or excess sebum.

[0004] In the latter case, the pores become more enlarged on the face, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), especially in the nasal area, and may be accentuated by an increase in the width of the cone around the pore and / or a parakeratotic state of the stratum corneum in this cone, which may itself be associated with an excessive secretion of sebum and unsaturated fatty acids.

[0005] This defect is often perceived negatively in that it does not give the impression of healthy skin.

[0006] It would therefore be appreciated that it would be useful to have available means which make it possible to reduce the unaesthetic enlargement of pores.

[0007] For this purpose, camouflage techniques have already been proposed, such as the use of makeup compositions containing polymers or inorganic powders. However, these compositions tend to block pores, thus resulting in other defects such as blackheads. Another solution consists in applying to the skin astringent lotions containing aluminum salts, aqueous / alcoholic solutions, combinations of retinoids and hydroxycarboxylic acids, or inhibitors of parakeratosis, such as glycine derivatives. However, these substances are known to irritate the skin. Several medical techniques have also been proposed to reduce the visibility of pores, including the use of pulsed lights, medical light-emitting diodes (LEDs), lasers, and chemical peels.

[0008] There is therefore a need for a method for visibly reducing pores that is as effective as the known ones but does not exhibit their drawbacks, ie in particular does not result in skin irritation.

[0009] The applicant company has already proposed compositions based on natural ingredients effective for this purpose.

[0010] Thus, FR 3 003 167 (M&L) describes a cosmetic composition containing three different immortelle extracts containing essential oils and aqueous extracts, and also myrtle essential oil, which has been judged by a panel of users to be particularly effective in reducing the appearance of pores.

[0011] US2011 / 159125 (Avon) describes in part a CGRP stimulator that can be selected from a number of plant extracts containing essential oils, in particular extracts of Helichrysum gymnocephalum. These extracts are presented as being useful as anti-aging agents, particularly for reducing pore size. However, it has not been demonstrated that essential oil of Helichrysum gymnocephalum can actually reduce pore size. In addition, such essential oils differ from those used in the present invention by the absence of neryl acetate, which, in contrast, is present in an amount of at least 30% in the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum, which is native to Corsica (S. Afoulous et al., Molecules, 2011, 16, 8273-8291; A. Bianchini et al., Flavour and Fragrance Journal, 2001, 16, 30-34).Similarly, CN109010520 discloses an anti-acne composition containing a number of ingredients, such as immortelle essential oil, which is used for the purpose of reducing scars due to its astringent effect and its ability to regenerate cells.

[0012] Nevertheless, there is a need to have available effective active ingredients of natural origin that are effective in visibly reducing pores.

[0013] The Applicant Company has now demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that with a particular combination of extracts of Immortel it is possible to achieve the objectives at lower concentrations, which are, on the other hand, well tolerated. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0014] [Patent Document 1] FR 3 003 167 [Patent Document 2] US2011 / 159125 [Patent Document 3] CN109010520 [Non-patent literature]

[0015] [Non-Patent Document 1] S. Afoulous et al., Molecules, 2011, 16, 8273-8291; [Non-Patent Document 2] A. Bianchini et al., Flavor and Fragrance Journal, 2001, 16 Summary of the Invention

[0016] The subject of the present invention is in particular the cosmetic use of a combination of an immortel essential oil of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of said immortel distillate obtained by extraction of said immortel distillate of the species Helichrysum italicum with subcritical water, for reducing the visibility of pores and / or tightening pores.

[0017] Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for reducing the visibility of pores and / or tightening them, comprising the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition containing a combination of immortel essential oil of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of the immortel distillate of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by extraction of said distillate with subcritical water. [Means for solving the problem]

[0018] The present invention uses immortelle essential oil derived from the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of immortelle distillation residue.

[0019] Preference is given to the essential oil of the subspecies italicum or microphyllum and / or of Helichrysum italicum, native to Corsica.

[0020] In the present specification, the term "essential oil" is understood to mean the product of hydrodistillation or hydrodistillation of the volatile organic compounds present in parts of the immortelle or in the whole plant and, more particularly, in the aboveground parts, such as the flowers or inflorescences (several centimeters of the flower and the stem). In these processes, the odor molecules contained in the plant are released and are produced by boiling the water to which the plant has been added (classical hydrodistillation) or are mechanically captured with steam, which is produced by boiling the water contained in the plant (microwave hydrodistillation, optionally under vacuum) or is supplied by a boiler and circulated through the plant (hydrodistillation). The distillate is then decanted and separated from the hydrosol (or aromatic distillate) into the essential oil used according to the invention. The solid residue constituting the distillation residue can be recovered and processed to prepare the extract of the immortelle distillation residue used in the present invention.

[0021] The essential oil of Helichrysum italicum, native to Corsica and preferentially used in the present invention, contains as its main component neryl acetate, which generally represents at least 30% by mass of the total components of the essential oil, as determined by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

[0022] In this composition, the immortel essential oil is combined with an extract of immortel stillage, the term "stillage" being understood to mean the solid residue remaining after hydrodistillation or hydrodistillation of a part of immortel, preferentially its flower heads, and after separation of the resulting essential oil and the resulting hydrosol.

[0023] This immortel distillation residue extract is characterized by the presence of flavonol heterosides in which the B ring is dihydroxylated. Flavonoids constitute a class of polyphenols with the following skeleton:

[0024] [ka]

[0025] These are themselves subdivided into different classes according to the carbon of the C ring to which the B ring is attached, the presence or absence of one or more unsaturations in the C ring, and / or the presence or absence of an oxo group in the 4-position of the C ring, and / or the presence or absence of a hydroxyl group in the 3-position of the C ring.

[0026] Flavonols constitute a class of flavonoids that specifically correspond to the following structure: [ka]

[0027] These include in particular flavonols which are unsubstituted in the B ring, such as baicalein, flavonols which are monohydroxylated in the B ring, such as kaempferol, and flavonols which are dihydroxylated in the B ring, such as quercetin and quercetagetin.

[0028] The Applicant Company has demonstrated by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry that the immortel stillage extract according to the invention is characterized in particular by the presence of flavonol heterosides with dihydroxylated B-ring, which are not present in other aqueous extracts obtained by using water at ambient temperature and pressure as the only extraction solvent. These flavonol heterosides generally comprise at least one quercetagenin heteroside, in particular an O-hexoside, at least one quercetin heteroside, in particular quercetin O-hexoside-O-ramsoside, or a mixture thereof. Typically, the immortel stillage extract used according to the invention contains at least 30 μg / mL of flavonol heterosides with dihydroxylated B-ring.

[0029] The extract of immortel distillation residue used according to the invention further contains chlorogenic acid and leontopodic acid B, the mass ratio of chlorogenic acid to flavonol heterosides having a dihydroxylated B ring being 0.05:1 to 1:1, preferably 0.1:1 to 0.5:1, and the mass ratio of leontopodic acid B to flavonol heterosides having a dihydroxylated B ring being 0.05:1 to 1:1, preferably 0.1:1 to 0.5:1.

[0030] In addition, the immortel distillation residue extract used according to the invention generally contains less than 100 ppm of volatile compounds that can be detected by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. These volatile compounds contain more than 30% ketones, generally more than 35% ketones, in particular more than 25% diketones, generally more than 30% diketones. Diketones include in particular italidione, 4-methyl-3,5-decanedione, 2,4-dimethylheptane-3,5-dione, 3,5-dimethyloctane-4,6-dione, 7-ethyl-4,6-undecanedione and ethyldodecanedione. The volatile compounds of the immortel distillation residue extract according to the invention also contain less than 2%, generally less than 1%, of nerol. The immortel distillation residue extract can be obtained by a process that includes extraction of the immortel distillation residue with subcritical water. The process is advantageously carried out in dynamic mode by permeation of water in subcritical state through the stillage, generally placed in a tubular autoclave. The stillage may be dry or fresh, crushed or not. Dry and crushed stillage is advantageously used. The passage time τ of the subcritical water is preferably between 10 and 20 minutes, preferentially between 11 and 17 minutes, for example about 15 minutes, measured according to the following formula: τ=V / Q, where V is the volume of the autoclave and Q is the flow rate of the subcritical water. For example, the flow rate Q may be between 1 and 4 ml / min, preferably between 2 and 3 ml / min.

[0031] The temperature and pressure of the water are selected to keep the water in a subcritical state, in particular to keep the water in a liquid state above 100°C. It is thus possible to use an extraction temperature of 120 to 175°C, preferably 150 to 175°C, for example 150°C, and a pressure of 10 to 60 bar, preferably 20 to 60 bar, for example about 30 bar. In any case, the water is kept below the critical point, which corresponds to the temperature / pressure combination of 374°C / 220 bar, because above that the water reaches a supercritical state. For example, the process is carried out for a total time of 25 to 100 minutes.

[0032] The distillation residue extract thus obtained is optionally dissolved in a solvent such as glycerol before being incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0033] The combination of the immortelle distillate extract according to the invention is disclosed as a cosmetic composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that does not cause stinging or redness in cosmetic use. This medium generally contains an oil phase and an aqueous phase. The composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water or water-in-oil type. If present, the aqueous phase contains water and optionally at least one component selected from a polyol and an aqueous gelling agent. Water advantageously represents 40% to 80%, for example 50% to 70%, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol can be selected in particular from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and can represent 5% to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The term "aqueous gelling agent" denotes a polymeric compound capable of immobilizing water molecules by hydrating and increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such gelling agents may be selected from polysaccharides such as cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenans, agar, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar gum or locust bean gum, synthetic polymers and in particular optionally crosslinked sodium acrylate homopolymers and acrylic acid copolymers, in particular copolymers of sodium acrylate and / or alkyl(meth)acrylates, and / or hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates, and / or (polyethoxy)alkyl(meth)acrylates, optionally with at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), these copolymers optionally crosslinked and mixtures thereof.

[0035] For its part, the fatty phase may comprise one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes such as isododecane, and linear C 10-C 13 In particular, non-volatile oils may include: - Esters of acids and monoalcohols: saturated linear C2-C 10 (Preferably C6-C 10 ) Acid and saturated linear C 10 -C 18 (Preferably C 10 -C 14 ) Mono- and polyesters of monoalcohols, saturated linear C 10 -C 20 Acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C 20 (Preferably C3-C 10 ) Mono- and polyesters of monoalcohols; branched or unsaturated C5-C 20 Acids and branched or unsaturated C5-C 20 Mono- and polyesters of monoalcohols and branched or unsaturated C5-C 20 Mono- and polyesters of acids and linear C2-C4 monoalcohols; - C6-C, such as caprylic and capric triglycerides and triheptanoin 12 fatty acid triglycerides, - Branched and / or unsaturated C 10 -C 12 fatty acids (e.g., oleic acid and linoleic acid); - Branched and / or unsaturated C 10 -C 12 Fatty alcohols (octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol), - Squalene (C 30 ), especially vegetable squalene extracted from olive oil, and hemisqualene (C 15 ), dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate; - dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether, and -A mixture of these.

[0036] Reference may also be made to vegetable oils containing one or more of the above ingredients. In particular, esters of acids and monoalcohols may include monoesters such as mixtures of coco-caprate and coco-caprylate, ethyl macadamiate, ethyl ester of shea butter, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl caprylate, and mixtures thereof. Other esters that may be used are esters of acids and monoalcohols such as diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, and diisoamyl sebacate.

[0037] Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, Uchiki red-skinned chestnut pumpkin, pumpkin, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passion flower, muscat rose, echium, camelina and camellia oil, among others.

[0038] The composition of the present invention may additionally comprise an active agent selected from at least one desquamating agent, a soothing agent, an antibacterial agent, an antiseborrheic agent, and mixtures thereof. Alternatively or additionally, the composition may comprise an active agent selected from at least one probiotic, such as a bacterium of the genus Lactobacillus or Bifidobacterium; a prebiotic, such as β-glucan, inulin, α-galactooligosaccharides, and fructooligosaccharides; and mixtures thereof.

[0039] The desquamating agents may be selected in particular from β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its acylated derivatives, in particular 5-acylsalicylic acids, such as 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, in free or salified form, in particular in the form of salts obtained by salification with inorganic or organic substances. Salicylic acid may also be used, in particular in the form of a plant extract of wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) which contains it. Other desquamating agents which may be used include α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid; polyhydroxy acids; gentisic acid or its esters, in particular tocopherol gentisate; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; certain derivatives of jasmonic acid; sugar derivatives, such as 6-O-octanoyl-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine; and mixtures thereof. In particular, salicylic acid may be used.

[0040] Examples of soothing agents are in particular panthenol, allantoin, β-glycyrrhetinic acid and extracts containing it (e.g. extract of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra)), plankton and extracts thereof, escin and plant extracts containing it (especially horse chestnut), aqueous, aqueous / alcoholic or aqueous / glycolic extracts of rose, cornflower, chamomile, lime, peony, hawthorn, mallow, marigold, sweet clover, sage, elder, arnica, oregano, green tea, iris, water lily, birch bark, orange blossom or aloe vera, asiatic acid and extracts containing it (especially Centella asiatica). asiatica), extracts of algae of the Laminaria type, zinc or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate, essential oils of coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint or chamomile, ursolic acid and extracts containing it (especially rosemary), sunflower oil, fucose-containing polysaccharides, amino acids, their salts and their acylated derivatives, galactolipids and plant extracts containing them (especially oats), acexamic acid, tranexamic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Specific examples of antimicrobial agents include undecylenic acid and its salts, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteic acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octopirox, octoxyglycerin, caprylyl glycol, octanoyl glycine, farnesol, phytosphingosine, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] Finally, antiseborrheic agents include zinc salts, in particular zinc gluconate, zinc pyridophosphate or zinc lactate; selenium chloride; pyridoxine or vitamin B6; capryloyl glycine; optionally in a mixture with sarcosine and extracts of Cinammomum zeylanicum, such as the Sepicontrol® products of the company Seppic; plant extracts, in particular those of Rosa canina or Rosa multiflora, Laminaria saccharina, Spirea ulmaria, Hypericum perforatum, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupus, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, and the like. officinalis, Salvia officinalis, Thymus vulgari, Lentil (Lens esculenta), Enantia chlorantha, Serenoa repen and Silybum spp.; and mixtures thereof.

[0043] These additional agents may be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0044] The composition according to the invention may further comprise various ingredients which may be dispersed in the fatty phase and / or in the aqueous phase, provided that they are compatible with topical application to the skin.

[0045] It therefore contains at least one oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifier, which is generally non-ionic, such as polyoxyethylene esters, optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, optionally polyethoxylated fatty acid and glycerol esters, fatty alcohols, and sugar ethers such as alkylglucosides, sugar esters and especially sucrose esters, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifier represents from 2% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more powder fillers, advantageously provided in the form of porous or hollow microparticles. These fillers are preferably porous in order to absorb sebum and to mattify the skin. They are as a rule substantially spherical. These fillers may in particular be chosen from: - organic fillers, for example powders of polysaccharides, in particular natural starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers, such as poly(methyl methacrylate), polyamides, polyolefins; dried algae, such as Corallina officinalis; - inorganic fillers, such as silica, clay, perlite and talc; - and mixtures thereof. The use of silica as the inorganic filler is preferred.

[0047] These fillers may represent from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise additives chosen especially from: fragrances; sequestering agents; pH adjusters; preservatives; pigments; dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0049] This composition may be provided in any form suitable for topical application to the skin, in particular in the form of a milk, cream, liquid, lotion, gel, paste or film, it is generally a leave-in composition and in particular a care composition for the skin.

[0050] In another form, the composition according to the invention may be a rinse-out composition used in particular for the care of the skin of the face, in which case it may be used, for example, as a mask and scrubbing paste.

[0051] The combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is suitable and intended to reduce the visibility of pores and / or suitable and intended to tighten pores. This expression is understood to mean a reduction in the pore opening diameter and / or the pore density and / or the surface area of ​​the pores relative to the surface area of ​​the skin. The visibility of pores is evaluated in vivo, as in the following examples, by means of a scoring and image analysis device capable of extracting and quantifying specific measurement parameters (in particular surface area, density) from high-resolution photographs of the faces of volunteers, the scoring and image analysis being carried out before and after the application of a composition containing the combination according to the invention.

[0052] The cosmetic composition may be applied to the skin of people who exhibit oily skin and / or enlarged pores, whether or not associated with signs of aging. It is generally applied to at least one area of ​​the face, in particular the T-zone, namely the forehead, nose and chin, and / or cheeks. The composition is applied one or more times a day, for example in the morning and / or in the evening.

[0053] In any event, the immortelle extract combination according to the present invention is applied to the skin in an amount sufficient to reduce the visibility of pores, e.g., 0.5 to 5 mg / cm daily. 2 can be applied to the affected area of ​​the skin.

[0054] Advantageously, - from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, of an extract of immortel stillage, and - from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.001% to 1% by weight and more preferentially from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight of immortelle essential oil, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. EXAMPLES

[0055] The present invention will be more clearly understood in light of the following examples, which are set forth purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

[0056] Example 1 Preparation and characterization of extracts – comparison with aqueous extracts 1.1 Extract preparation a) Immortelle essential oil Flower heads of Helichrysum italicum, native to Corsica, were subjected to a conventional hydrodistillation process to recover the essential oil and hydrosol on the one hand, and the residue on the other. The essential oil is then separated from the hydrosol in a conventional manner.

[0057] b) Immortel stillage extract Immortel stillages were used, consisting of the hydrodistillate resulting from the extraction of the essential oils described above. These stillages were subjected to extraction with subcritical water, permeated with hot water under pressure in a reactor containing dried and crushed stillages. The extract thus obtained was diluted with glycerin in a mass ratio of 45:55.

[0058] c) Immortelle aqueous extract For comparison, an aqueous immortelle extract is prepared by immersing flower heads of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum in 50°C water at a plant / water mass ratio of 10%.

[0059] 1.2 Characterization a) Comparison of stillage extract and aqueous immortelle extract

[0060] Device -Ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (Agilent Technologies, USA) -Automatic injector 1290 series -Diode Array Detector (DAD) 1260 Series - Mass spectrometer: Esquire 6000 equipped with an electrospray ionization source (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen)

[0061] Sample preparation -The aqueous extract was diluted 10 times with a methanol / water (50 / 50) mixture. According to the present invention, the extract of the distillation residue was diluted 1 / 2 with a methanol / water (50 / 50) mixed solvent.

[0062] Analysis method The solution obtained after dilution / extraction was filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 μm) and then injected (1 μl) onto an Agilent C18 column (2.1 mm×100 mm; 1.8 μm) at a temperature maintained at 25° C. and a flow rate of 0.4 ml / min. The following solvents were used: A=water / formic acid (0.1%) and B=acetonitrile / formic acid (0.1%). The following is the gradient elution of polyphenols:

[0063] [Table 1]

[0064] At the exit of the diode array detector, the eluent was injected into the mass spectrometer. The analysis was performed in negative or positive mode. LC-MS spectra were acquired over the full mass (m / z) range from 100 to 1400. All data were then collected and processed by Hystar® software, version 3.0.

[0065] result

[0066] [Table 2]

[0067] As is evident from this table, the distillation residue extract used according to the invention is characterized by a high content of flavonoid heterosides, in particular flavonol O-heterosides in which the B-ring is dihydroxylated. They are also richer in chlorogenic acid and dicaffeoylquinic acid than the aqueous extract. Moreover, it was confirmed by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry that the "flavonoid O-heterosides" do not correspond to any of the above compounds.

[0068] b) Comparison of immortel hydrosols procedure The phenolic compounds present in the hydrosol obtained in 1.1a) were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (UPLC-DAD-MS) using an Agilent Technologies chromatograph equipped with an electrospray ionization (ESI) source and an Esquire 6000 mass spectrometer (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen). The hydrosol was diluted to 50% with a methanol / water (50 / 50) mixture. The resulting solution was filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 μm) and then loaded (1 μl) onto an Agilent C18 column (2.1 mm × 100 mm; 1.8 μm) with the temperature maintained at 25 degrees. The solvents used were: A = water / 0.1% formic acid and B = acetonitrile / 0.1% formic acid; the flow rate was 0.4 ml / min. At the outlet of the diode array detector, the eluent was injected into the mass spectrometer. The analysis was carried out in negative or positive mode. All data were then collected and processed by Hystar® software, version 3.0.

[0069] result It was observed that, unlike the stillage extract used according to the invention, said hydrosol does not contain quercetagetin O-hexoside or quercetin O-hexoside-O-rhamsoside.

[0070] c) Characterization of essential oils The test described under 1.2b) was repeated on the essential oil obtained under 1.1a). For this, 2 ml of the essential oil was dissolved in 1 ml of hexane and then this oily solution was extracted 3 times with 2 ml of a methanol / water (60 / 40) mixture. The aqueous / alcoholic phases were combined.

[0071] Again, it was observed that immortelle essential oil does not contain quercetagetin O-hexoside or quercetin O-hexoside-O-rhamsoside. More generally, immortelle essential oil has been demonstrated to be devoid of polyphenols and to contain terpenoids, in particular neryl acetate (greater than 30% by weight), eudesmol and curcumin.

[0072] Example 2 Effect of the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention on the visibility of pores 2.1 Apparatus and method A clinical trial was carried out on a population of 33 healthy adult women, aged between 37 and 63 years, with dilated pores on the cheeks, who were asked to apply the test product twice a day (morning and evening) at home on one half of the face. A control product was applied with the same frequency on the other half of the face. A specific randomization was used to define the side on which the two different formulations were applied.

[0073] The test products consist of cosmetic compositions containing a combination of extracts of immortel according to the invention (0.5% of immortel distillation residue extract and 0.03% of immortel essential oil). The control product corresponds to the same composition but lacks these two extracts. The formulation base common to these products is the following composition: Hydrophilic gelling agent 1.00% Sodium gluconate 0.20% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.20% Oil 3.00% Preservatives qs Water qs for 100%

[0074] Photographs were taken at different time intervals in an ISO 9001 certified survey center using a VISIA-CR image acquisition device (provided by Canfield).

[0075] Specifically, the following images were captured: -0 days, before first application of the product, -28 days, 28 days after application (± 2 days) -56 days, after 56 days of use (± 2 days) For this, the volunteers first underwent a 20-minute acclimatization period in a room with controlled temperature (22°C ± 2°C) and controlled humidity (45% ± 10%) in the research center. Afterwards, photographs of their entire face (with eyes closed) were taken in standard, cross-polarized and parallel polarized illumination modes. The photographs taken were then analyzed, focusing on the pores located on both cheeks near the nasolabial fold. The pore volumes were analyzed at each visit of the volunteers. The product of the surface area of ​​the pore by the depth of the pore was defined, where the surface area of ​​the pore corresponds to the number of pixels in the area under study and the depth of the pore corresponds to the difference in intensity between the area under study and the surrounding area.

[0076] Statistical analysis of the results was performed using the Wilcoxon rank sum test.

[0077] 2.2 Results The difference in pore volume after 28 days was compared between the hemiface treated with the composition according to the invention and the hemiface treated with the control composition.The difference in the amount measured was significant (p=0.041) and observable by the sponsor of the study with the naked eye.In addition, the composition according to the invention was well tolerated and no undesirable effects were reported by the volunteers.

[0078] Example 3 Cosmetic Composition

[0079] The following compositions were prepared in a manner conventional to those skilled in the art by mixing the ingredients (indicated by their INCI names in capital letters) in the weight ratios set forth below:

[0080] Face cream O / W emulsifier 6.00% Fatty substances 15.00% Hydrophilic gelling agent 3.00% Polyols 3.50% Anti-aging active agent 5.50% Antiseborrheic Active Agent 3.00% Sodium hydroxide 1.00% Immortelle essential oil 0.03% Immortelle Distillate Extract 0.50% fragrance qs Preservatives qs Antioxidant qs Water qs for 100.00%

[0081] Serum O / W emulsifier 1.00% Fatty substances 8.00% Hydrophilic gelling agent 3.00% Polyol 6.00% Anti-aging Active Agent 5.00% Antiseborrheic Active Agent 4.00% Immortelle essential oil 0.04% Immortel distillate extract 1.00% fragrance qs Preservatives qs Antioxidant qs Water qs for 100.00%

[0082] Sebum secretion regulating mask Glycerin 10.0% Zinc Gluconate 0.2% Cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside 3.0% Myristyl alcohol and myristyl glucoside 2.0% Octyldodecanol 3.0% Pentylene glycol 1.0% Sodium polyacrylate 0.5% Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.3% Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer 0.2% Xanthan gum 0.1% Disodium EDTA 0.1% Immortelle essential oil 0.02% Immortelle distillation residue extract 0.4% fragrance qs Moisture qs for 100%

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for reducing the visibility of pores and / or tightening pores, comprising a combination of immortelle essential oil of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of the immortelle distillation residue of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by extracting the distillation residue with subcritical water.

2. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillation residue contains flavonol heterosides in which the B ring is dihydroxylated.

3. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillation residue further contains chlorogenic acid and leontopodic acid B in a mass ratio of flavonol heterosides with dihydroxylated B rings to chlorogenic acid of 0.05:1 to 1:1, preferably 0.1:1 to 0.5:1, and a mass ratio of flavonol heterosides with dihydroxylated B rings to leontopodic acid B of 0.05:1 to 1:1, preferably 0.1:1 to 0.5:

1.

4. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the flavonol heteroside comprises at least one quercetagenin heteroside, in particular an O-hexoside, at least one quercetin heteroside, in particular quercetin O-hexoside-O-ramsoside, or a mixture thereof.

5. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillation residue contains at least 30 μg / mL of flavonol heterosides in which the B ring is dihydroxylated.

6. 2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the volatile compounds present in the extract of immortelle distillation residue contain more than 30% ketones, generally more than 35% ketones, in particular more than 25% diketones, generally more than 30% diketones, and less than 2%, generally less than 1%, of nerol.

7. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the immortelle essential oil and / or the extract of immortelle distillation residue originates from immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum of Corsican origin.

8. The cosmetic composition described in claim 1, characterized in that the immortelle essential oil contains neryl acetate as its main component, which accounts for at least 30% by weight of the total components of the essential oil as measured by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

9. A cosmetic method for reducing the visibility of pores and / or tightening pores, comprising topically applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. 10. The cosmetic method according to claim 9, wherein the cosmetic composition contains, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, (a) 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, of an extract of immortelle distillation residue, and (b) 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, of immortelle essential oil.

11. 10. Method according to claim 9, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin of the face, in particular to the forehead, nose, chin and / or cheeks.