Stable w / o emulsion composition
A W/O emulsion composition with a cationic polymer, hydrophilic fillers, and organically modified clay forms a three-dimensional network, addressing high viscosity and filler aggregation issues, ensuring stability and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024099711
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing W/O emulsion compositions face issues with high viscosity, stability, and filler aggregation, particularly when using organic UV filters and microplastic fillers, which can lead to environmental pollution.
A W/O emulsion composition comprising a cationic polymer with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 500,000, hydrophilic fillers, and organically modified clay, forming a three-dimensional network structure to reduce viscosity and prevent filler aggregation, while minimizing or eliminating microplastic fillers.
The composition achieves low viscosity and stability without phase separation, suppressing filler aggregation, and promotes environmental sustainability by reducing microplastic content.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion compositions for keratinous materials such as the skin, in particular sun care compositions in the form of stable W / O emulsions. [Background technology]
[0002] Suncare products are widely used to protect keratinous materials, especially skin, from damage caused by UV radiation. Among suncare products, W / O emulsion suncare compositions are generally water-resistant and therefore can be kept on the surface of the skin even after being exposed to water or sweat, and are therefore widely distributed.
[0003] In suncare cosmetics, organic UV filters are widely used to provide UV protection properties to suncare compositions.However, the use of organic UV filters can have adverse effects, such as increasing viscosity and the stability of the composition to maintain its emulsion form over time.
[0004] In recent years, pollution of the marine environment and destruction of marine ecosystems by microplastics have become a major concern, and therefore cosmetics containing only small amounts of microplastic fillers or no microplastic fillers at all have been proposed.
[0005] Therefore, there has been a demand for a W / O emulsion composition that has low viscosity and good stability without causing phase separation over time.
[0006] For example, WO2023 / 277194 discloses a W / O emulsion composition comprising (a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, (b) at least one powder other than a microplastic filler, (c) at least one cationic polymer, and (d) at least one oil, wherein the composition comprises the microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, or the composition is free of a microplastic filler.
[0007] However, the compositions disclosed in WO2023 / 277194 may have the problem that the powder in the composition may cause agglomeration, which may reduce the stability of the composition.
[0008] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally compatible cosmetics, designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, has become a major goal in meeting global challenges, and it is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation methods and ingredients to address these environmental issues.
[0009] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.
[0010] Therefore, there remains a need to provide a new formulation of a low-viscosity W / O emulsion composition that has sufficient stability and reduces the amount of filler aggregation. Furthermore, sun care cosmetic compositions that do not contain microplastic fillers are also desirable as environmentally sustainable products. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0011] [Patent Document 1] WO2023 / 277194 [Patent Document 2] European Patent Application No. 0080976 [Patent Document 3] French Patent No. 2077143 [Patent Document 4] French Patent No. 2393573 [Patent Document 5] French Patent No. 1492597 [Patent Document 6] WO2005 / 000903 [Patent Document 7] U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576 [Patent Document 8] U.S. Patent No. 3,589,578 [Patent Document 9] U.S. Patent No. 4,031,307 [Patent Document 10] French Patent No. 2162025 [Patent Document 11] French Patent No. 2280361 [Patent Document 12] French Patent No. 2252840 [Patent Document 13] French Patent No. 2368508 [Patent Document 14] French Patent No. 1,583,363 [Patent Document 15] U.S. Patent No. 3,227,615 [Patent Document 16] U.S. Patent No. 2,961,347 [Patent Document 17] French Patent No. 2080759 [Patent Document 18] French Patent No. 2190406 [Patent Document 19] French Patent No. 2320330 [Patent Document 20] French Patent No. 2270846 [Patent Document 21] French Patent No. 2316271 [Patent Document 22] French Patent No. 2336434 [Patent Document 23] French Patent No. 2413907 [Patent Document 24] U.S. Patent No. 2,273,780 [Patent Document 25] U.S. Patent No. 2,375,853 [Patent Document 26] U.S. Patent No. 2,388,614 [Patent Document 27] U.S. Patent No. 2,454,547 [Patent Document 28] U.S. Patent No. 3,206,462 [Patent Document 29] U.S. Patent No. 2,261,002 [Patent Document 30] U.S. Patent No. 2,271,378 [Patent Document 31] U.S. Patent No. 3,874,870 [Patent Document 32] U.S. Patent No. 4,001,432 [Patent Document 33] U.S. Patent No. 3,929,990 [Patent Document 34] U.S. Patent No. 3,966,904 [Patent Document 35] U.S. Patent No. 4,005,193 [Patent Document 36] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,617 [Patent Document 37] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,627 [Patent Document 38] U.S. Patent No. 4,025,653 [Patent Document 39] U.S. Patent No. 4,026,945 [Patent Document 40] U.S. Patent No. 4,027,020 [Patent Document 41] European Patent Application No. 0122324 [Non-patent literature]
[0012] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-patent document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0013] An object of the present invention is to provide a W / O emulsion composition that has low viscosity, sufficient stability, a reduced amount of filler aggregation, and is substantially free of microplastic fillers. [Means for solving the problem]
[0014] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000; (b) at least one hydrophilic filler; (c) at least one organically modified clay, and (d) at least one oil-based medium This can be achieved by a W / O emulsion composition comprising the above, wherein the composition contains a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, or the composition does not contain a microplastic filler.
[0015] (a) The cationic polymer may be selected from polyamines.
[0016] (a) The cationic polymer may be selected from chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0017] (b) The hydrophilic filler may be selected from talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, silica silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and natural polymer powders such as polysaccharide powders, e.g., starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0018] The average particle size of the (b) hydrophilic filler may be in the range of 0.2 μm to 50 μm, preferably 0.5 μm to 20 μm, and more preferably 1 μm to 15 μm.
[0019] The (b) hydrophilic filler may include two or more types of (b) hydrophilic filler.
[0020] (b) The hydrophilic filler may comprise a combination of at least one inorganic hydrophilic filler and at least one organic hydrophilic filler.
[0021] The composition may be free of microplastic fillers.
[0022] (c) The organically modified clay may be selected from organically modified hectorite and organically modified bentonite.
[0023] The (a) cationic polymer may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] (b) The hydrophilic filler may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] (c) The organically modified clay may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0026] (d) The oily medium may be present in an amount ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The composition may further comprise at least one lipophilic UV filter.
[0028] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as the skin, which comprises the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0029] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have surprisingly found that a W / O emulsion composition comprising a combination of at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000, at least one hydrophilic filler, and at least one organically modified clay can exhibit low viscosity, good stability, and a reduced amount of filler aggregation by forming a three-dimensional (3D) network structure in the composition, and have thus completed the present invention.
[0030] Therefore, the present invention provides (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000; (b) at least one hydrophilic filler; (c) at least one organically modified clay, and (d) at least one oil-based medium wherein the composition contains a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, or the composition is free of a microplastic filler.
[0031] The W / O emulsion composition and cosmetic method according to the present invention will be described in more detail below.
[0032] [Composition] The composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000; (b) at least one hydrophilic filler; (c) at least one organically modified clay; and (d) at least one oily medium.
[0033] The compositions according to the invention are in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, i.e. W / O emulsions comprising a plurality of discontinuous dispersed aqueous phases in a continuous oily phase, and therefore comprise a plurality of discontinuous dispersed aqueous phases and a continuous oily phase.
[0034] The composition according to the present invention exhibits low viscosity. For example, the composition according to the present invention may have a viscosity of less than 10 Pa·s, preferably less than 8 Pa·s, and more preferably less than 6 Pa·s at room temperature (25°C). Although the lower limit of the viscosity is not limited, the composition generally has a viscosity of more than 1 mPa·s at room temperature. In the context of this specification, the viscosity of the composition can be measured at room temperature using a Brookfield viscometer.
[0035] The W / O emulsion composition according to the present invention can exhibit good stability without causing phase separation over time, even when it is substantially free of microplastic fillers. In addition, the composition according to the present invention can suppress filler aggregation. Generally, compositions with low viscosity exhibit low stability and tend to cause filler aggregation. However, the composition according to the present invention has low viscosity, but exhibits low filler aggregation and satisfies good stability, and these properties are surprising.
[0036] Without wishing to be bound by theory, the present inventors have surprisingly discovered that the combination of (a) a cationic polymer, (b) a hydrophilic filler, and (c) an organically modified clay can form a three-dimensional (3D) network in the composition, generating structural bulk. In particular, it is believed that the (a) cationic polymer and (b) a hydrophilic filler in the discontinuous dispersed aqueous phase can interact with the (c) an organically modified clay in the continuous oily phase through ionic forces, thereby creating a 3D network in the composition.
[0037] The level of 3D structure in the composition can be measured by the dielectric constant. An appropriate level of dielectric constant indicates that more 3D structure is produced. Preferably, the dielectric constant of the present invention is in the range of 1 to 2. The dielectric constant can be measured, for example, under ambient conditions using a multi-parameter meter such as the Orion™ Versa Star sold by Thermo Fisher Scientific.
[0038] The ingredients in the composition are described in detail below.
[0039] (cationic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000. Two or more types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.
[0040] The cationic polymer has a positive charge density, which may be 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq / g.
[0041] The cationic polymer may be hydrophilic or water-soluble. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, the (a) cationic polymer is present in the aqueous phase of the W / O emulsion composition according to the present invention.
[0042] (a) The molecular weight of the cationic polymer is in the range of 20,000 to 500,000. The molecular weight of the cationic polymer may be in the range of 25,000 to 400,000.
[0043] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means number average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography according to ASTM D5296-19.
[0044] (a) The cationic polymer may have at least one positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary, or tertiary amino groups, quaternary ammonium groups, guanidine groups, biguanide groups, imidazole groups, imino groups, and pyridyl groups. The term "(primary) amino group" herein refers to an -NH group.
[0045] (a) The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and copolymers obtained from more than two types of monomers, for example terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.
[0046] (a) The cationic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are:
[0047] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from esters and amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one unit selected from units of the following formula:
[0048] [ka]
[0049] (In the formula, R1 and R2 may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl and ethyl groups; R3 may be the same or different and is selected from hydrogen and CH3; the symbols A may be the same or different and are selected from linear or branched alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and hydroxyalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5 and R6 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X − is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate, and a halide ion, such as chloride and bromide.
[0050] The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one unit derived from a comonomer, which may be chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamides and methacrylamides whose nitrogen atoms are substituted with (C1-C4) lower alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid and their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0051] Examples of family (1) copolymers include, but are not limited to: Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halide; Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0080976; Copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as those described in French Patents Nos. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573; Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam / vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymer, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymer, and Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salt polymers, for example, polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, for example methylenebisacrylamide.
[0052] Preferably, the Family (1) copolymers have units derived from vinylpyrrolidone. More preferably, the Family (1) copolymers have at least one pendant ring structure derived from vinylpyrrolidone. Meanwhile, it is preferred that the Family (1) copolymers do not contain a ring structure in the polymer backbone.
[0053] The copolymers of family (1) containing vinylpyrrolidone units can be chosen from: (i) Copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone units and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate units, such as vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) sold under the trade name Copolymer 845 by the company ISP, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, such as those sold under the trade names Gafquat 734, 755, 755S and 755L by the company ISP; vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / hydrophilic polyurethane copolymers, such as those sold under the trade name Pecogel GC-310 by the company UCIB or under the trade names Aquamere C1031 and C1511 by the company Blagden Chemicals; - Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / C8-C 16 Olefin copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / C8-C6 sold under the trade names Ganex ACP1050-1057, 1062-1069, and 1079-1086 by ISP; 16 olefin copolymers, and vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam copolymer sold under the trade name Gaffix VC713 by the company ISP; (ii) Copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone units and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium (MAPTAC) units, such as vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium copolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone / MAPTAC copolymers sold under the trade names Gafquat ACP1011 and Gafquat HS100 by the company ISP; and vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers, such as those sold under the trade names Polymer ACP 1059, 1060 and 1156 by the company ISP, and (iii) Copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone units and methylvinylimidazolium units, such as vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymers, for example those sold under the trade names Luviquat FC370, FC550, FC905 and HM552 by BASF; vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylimidazole copolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylimidazole copolymer sold under the trade name Luviquat 8155 by BASF; and Vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate copolymers, for example the vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate copolymer sold under the trade name Luviquat MS370 by BASF.
[0054] It is preferred that the copolymers of family (1) are selected from copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone units and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate units, more preferably from vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, and even more preferably from polyquaternium-11.
[0055] (2) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as those described in French Patent No. 1492597, for example, the polymers sold by Union Carbide Corporation under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M). These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium hydroxyethyl celluloses reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups.
[0056] The cationic cellulose derivative is preferably a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group containing at least one fatty chain, for example, an alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof. The alkyl group carried by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl group.
[0057] More preferably, the cationic cellulose derivative comprises at least one C8-C 30 It may contain at least one quaternary ammonium group containing a hydrocarbon group.
[0058] C8 to C that can be mentioned 30Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by Amerchol, or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL-60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, SoftCat SK-L, Softcat SK-M, and Softcat SK-H, and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by Croda.
[0059] Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof, with Polyquaternium-67 being most preferred.
[0060] From another perspective, the cationic cellulose derivative can also be selected from cationic cellulose ethers containing 4000 to 10000 anhydroglucose units, wherein the anhydroglucose units are substituted with at least: (i) one substituent of the formula: [R4R5R6R9N + ](X2 - ) [In the formula, R4 and R5 each independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group; R6 is a linear or branched C8-C 24 Alkyl group or linear or branched alkyl group is C8-C 24 represents an aralkyl group represented by the formula: R9 allows for attachment to an anhydroglucose group, -(B) qrepresents a divalent group selected from -CH2-CHOH-CH2- and -CH2CH2-; q represents 0 or 1; B is the divalent group -(CH2CH2O) n' - indicates n' is an integer ranging from 1 to 100; X2 - represents an anion], and (ii) one substituent of the formula: [R1R2R3R8N + ](X1 - ) [In the formula, R1, R2 and R3 each independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group; R8 allows for attachment to an anhydroglucose group, -(A) p represents a divalent group selected from -CH2-CHOH-CH2- and -CH2CH2-; p represents 0 or 1; A is the divalent group -(CH2CH2O) n - indicates n is an integer ranging from 1 to 100; X1 - represents an anion].
[0061] Preferably, the formula [R4R5R6R9N + ](X2 - The substituent (i) is present in an average amount of 0.0003 to 0.08 mol per mole of anhydroglucose unit.
[0062] The cationic cellulose ether that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose.The cationic cellulose ether that can be used in the composition according to the present invention preferably comprises more than 4500, advantageously more than 5000, more preferably more than 6000 anhydroglucose units.
[0063] Preferably, the cationic cellulose ethers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention contain up to 9000, more preferably up to 8000, anhydroglucose units.
[0064] These cationic cellulose ethers and methods for their preparation are described in patent application WO2005 / 000903.
[0065] According to a preferred variant, the cationic cellulose ethers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention contain at least one unit (IV) and the following units (I), (II) and (III):
[0066] [ka]
[0067] formed from at least one of: The total number of units (I)+(II)+(III)+(IV) is between 4,000 and 10,000, The ratio [(III) + (IV)] / [(I) + (II) + (III) + (IV)] is in the range of 0.0003 to 0.8, The ratio [(II) + (IV)] / [(I) + (II) + (III) + (IV)] is in the range of 0.02 to 0.9; the integers n and n' are, independently of one another, in the range of 0 to 5; R1, R2, R3, R4 and R5 each independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group; R6 is a linear or branched C8-C 24 , preferably C 10 ~C 24 , more preferably C 12 ~C 24 , and even better C 12 ~C 15 or a linear or branched alkyl moiety having C8 to C 24 represents an aralkyl group represented by the formula: X1 - and X2 -are, independently of each other, phosphate ions, nitrate ions, sulfate ions and halide ions (Cl - , Br - , F - , I - ) represents an anion preferably selected from
[0068] According to a particular variant, the cationic cellulose ether that can be used in the composition according to the invention is formed from at least one unit (IV) and at least one of units (I), (II) or (III) described above, wherein R6 is a linear dodecyl group.
[0069] Among the cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of polymers of the Softcat SL-5, SL-30, SL-60 and SL-100 type (INCI: Polyquaternium-67) sold by the company Amerchol. Particularly preferred cationic cellulose ethers are polymers of the SL-60 and SL-100 type.
[0070] (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with quaternary ammonium water-soluble monomers, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, for example, hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted with salts selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium salts, methacrylamidepropyltrimethylammonium salts, and dimethyldiallylammonium salts.
[0071] Commercially available products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, those sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by National Starch.
[0072] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gum containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. Salt-modified guar gum, such as guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), can also be used.
[0073] Such products are sold, for example, by the company MEYHALL under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162.
[0074] (5) Polymers containing piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains optionally interrupted by at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocycles, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.
[0075] (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, for example, prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines, which may be crosslinked with an entity selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, bisunsaturated derivatives, bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkyl halides, and oligomers obtained by reacting bifunctional compounds reactive with entities selected from bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides, and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent is used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may optionally be alkylated, or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function, they may be quaternized. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.
[0076] (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives obtained by condensing polyalkylenepolyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents, such as adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers, in which the alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and the alkylene groups, such as ethylene groups, contain 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives can be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.
[0077] (8) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid may be in the range of 0.8:1 to 1.4:1, and the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine groups of the polyaminoamide in the range of 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
[0078] (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and dialkyldiallyl-ammonium, for example homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main chain building block, at least one unit selected from units of formulae (Ia) and (Ib):
[0079] [ka]
[0080] [In the formula, k and t may be identical or different and are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t is equal to 1; R 12 is selected from hydrogen and a methyl group; R 10 and R 11 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups where the alkyl group contains, for example, 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl groups, or R 10 and R 11 may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, form a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; Y' is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 080 759 and its supplement, French Patent No. 2 190 406.
[0081] In one embodiment, R 10 and R 11 may be the same or different and are selected from alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0082] Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chlorides, such as the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its lower weight average molecular weight homologues), and the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550."
[0083] (10) A quaternary diammonium polymer comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II):
[0084] [ka]
[0085] {In the formula, R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups; or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16may together with or separately from the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a heterocycle optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and may be a nitrile group, an ester group, an acyl group, an amide group, -CO-OR 17 -E group and -CO-NH-R 17 -E group (in the formula, R 17 is an alkylene group, and E is a quaternary ammonium group), A1 and B1 may be identical or different and are selected from polymethylene groups containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups; X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, A1, R 13 and R 15 may be taken together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached to form a piperazine ring; When A1 is selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene groups or hydroxyalkylene groups, B1 can be selected from the following: -(CH2) n --CO-E'-OC-(CH2) n - [In the formula, E' is a) a glycol residue of the formula -OZO-, where Z is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the formula: -(CH2-CH2-O) x -CH2-CH2- -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O] y -CH2-CH(CH3)- wherein x and y may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 1 to 4 representing a defined unique degree of polymerization and numbers ranging from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) bis-primary diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals and the divalent radical -CH-CH-SS-CH-CH-, and d) a ureylene group of the formula -NH-CO-NH- Select from can be selected from}.
[0086] In at least one embodiment, X - is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
[0087] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French Patents Nos. 2320330, 2270846, 2316271, 2336434 and 2413907, and in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,0 02, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945, and 4,027,020.
[0088] Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those that contain at least one repeat unit of formula (III):
[0089] [ka]
[0090] (In the formula, R 13 , R14 , R 15 and R 16 are the same or different and are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; n and p are the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 20; X - is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid).
[0091] (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV):
[0092] [ka]
[0093] [In the formula, R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) p OH group (wherein p is selected from an integer ranging from 0 to 6), provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 and hydrogen at the same time, r and s may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 1 to 6; q is selected from an integer ranging from 0 to 34; X - is an anion, for example a halide ion, A is selected from dihalides and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2- groups.
[0094] Such compounds are described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0122324.
[0095] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines such as polyethyleneimine, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine units and vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines with epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, and chitin derivatives.
[0096] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as the product sold under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, such as the homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550 and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.
[0097] (13) Polyamines It is also possible to use (co)polyamines as cationic polymers, which may be homopolymers or copolymers containing multiple amino groups. The amino groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino groups. The amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone of the (co)polyamine or, if present, in pendant groups.
[0098] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polyallylamine, (co)polyvinylamine, (co)polyaniline, (co)polyvinylimidazole, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylate, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridine, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimine, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridine), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropylbiguanide, (co)polylysine, (co)polyornithine, (co)polyarginine, (co)polyhistidine, aminodextran, aminocellulose, amino(co)polyvinyl acetal, and salts thereof.
[0099] Chitosan is preferably used as the (co)polyamine. Chitosan is well known. Chitosan can be a linear polysaccharide composed of randomly distributed β-(1→4)-linked D-glucosamine (deacetylated unit) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated unit). The acetylation degree of chitosan can be 1.0% to 10.0%, preferably 2.0% to 8.0%, and more preferably 3.0% to 6.0%. Chitosan can be prepared, for example, by treating chitin shells of shrimp and other crustaceans with an alkaline substance such as sodium hydroxide. Therefore, the cationic polymer can be a polyamine of a polysaccharide, preferably a linear polysaccharide.
[0100] As the (co)polyamine, it is preferable to use (co)polylysine. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be ε-poly-L-lysine, which is typically used as a natural preservative in foods. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents, such as water. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.
[0101] (14) Cationic polyamino acids As the cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers having multiple amino and carboxyl groups. The amino groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino groups. The amino groups may be present in the polymer backbone of the cationic polyamino acid or, if present, in pendant groups. The carboxyl groups may be present in pendant groups of the cationic polyamino acid, if present.
[0102] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein.
[0103] It may be preferred that the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and cyclopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines, such as (co)polylysine, cationic (co)polyamino acids, such as cationized collagen, and salts thereof.
[0104] The cationic polymer may be a polyquaternium polymer or a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt.
[0105] Polymerizable quaternary ammonium salts are cationic polymers containing at least one quaternized nitrogen atom. As polymerizable quaternary ammonium salts, polyquaternium products (CTFA name) can be mentioned in particular, which mainly contribute to the quality of foam and the skin feel after use, especially the skin feel after use. These polymers can be preferably selected from the following polymers: Polyquaternium-5, such as the product Merquat 5 sold by the company Nalco; Polyquaternium-6, such as the product Salcare SC 30 sold by BASF and the product Merquat 100 sold by Nalco; Polyquaternium-7, such as the products Merquat S, Merquat 2200, Merquat 7SPR and Merquat 550 sold by the company Nalco, and the product Salcare SC 10 sold by the company BASF; Polyquaternium-10, for example the product Polymer JR400 sold by the company Amerchol; Polyquaternium-11, such as the products Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N and Gafquat 734 sold by the company ISP; Polyquaternium-15, for example the product Rohagit KF 720 F sold by the company Rohm; Polyquaternium-16, such as the products Luviquat FC905, Luviquat FC370, Luviquat HM552 and Luviquat FC550 sold by BASF; Polyquaternium-28, for example the product Styleze CC10 sold by the company ISP; Polyquaternium-44, for example the product Luviquat Care sold by the company BASF; Polyquaternium-46, for example the product Luviquat Hold sold by the company BASF; Polyquaternium-47, for example the product Merquat 2001 sold by Nalco; and Polyquaternium-67, for example the product Softcat sold by the company Amerchol.
[0106] (a) The cationic polymer is preferably selected from polyamines, more preferably chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, especially chitosan.
[0107] The amount of (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and / or 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] The amount of (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0109] (hydrophilic filler) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one hydrophilic filler. Two or more hydrophilic fillers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic filler or a combination of different types of hydrophilic fillers may be used.
[0110] The term "filler" is to be understood herein to mean colorless or white mineral or natural particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is prepared.
[0111] The term "hydrophilic" as used herein may mean that the material is readily dispersible in water under ambient conditions, such as 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.
[0112] Therefore, the term "hydrophilic filler" as used herein should be understood to mean a filler that is easily dispersible in water. In the present invention, (b) the hydrophilic filler may be present in the oil phase, but the (b) hydrophilic filler may be maintained in a well-dispersed state and the formation of aggregates may be suppressed.
[0113] (b) The hydrophilic fillers may be of any shape, regardless of crystalline form (for example, lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), and may be platelet-shaped, spherical, or oblong.
[0114] The average particle size of the (b) hydrophilic filler is not limited, but is generally 50 μm or less, preferably 20 μm or less, and more preferably 15 μm or less. The average particle size of the (b) powder is 0.2 μm or more, preferably 0.5 μm or more, and more preferably 1 μm or more. Therefore, the average particle size of the (b) hydrophilic filler may be in the range of 0.2 μm to 50 μm, preferably 0.5 μm to 20 μm, and more preferably 1 μm to 15 μm.
[0115] The term "average particle size" as used herein refers to the number-average size mean diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution for half of the population, and is referred to as D50. For example, the number-average particle size can be measured with a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
[0116] (b) The hydrophilic filler may be an inorganic or organic filler, which may or may not be surface coated.
[0117] Inorganic fillers can include talc, mica, silica silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metallic soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally treated to be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
[0118] Organic fillers can include natural polymer powders, such as polysaccharide powders and their derivatives, such as starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] In a preferred embodiment, (b) the hydrophilic filler is selected from silica, starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] It is important to note that the (b) hydrophilic filler of the present invention is different from so-called "inorganic UV filters", such as titanium oxide. The (b) hydrophilic filler does not have a substantial active UV filtering effect, but on the other hand, the composition according to the present invention can contribute to the formation of a uniform and fine film on keratinous materials such as skin. Therefore, the (b) hydrophilic filler of the present invention is not an inorganic UV filter such as titanium oxide. Typically, inorganic UV filters are characterized by their fine particle size, and generally have an average particle size of less than 200 nm.
[0121] The (b) hydrophilic filler may be surface-coated or uncoated. The coating may be an inorganic and / or organic substance. In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) hydrophilic filler is uncoated.
[0122] The inorganic coating may be selected from metal oxides such as silica, aluminum oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, and iron oxide, and metal hydroxides such as aluminum hydroxide.
[0123] The organic coating may be selected from fatty acids or their salts (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, and (per)fluoro compounds.
[0124] In one embodiment of the present invention, (b) the hydrophilic filler does not contain synthetic coatings that may pose environmental issues in the same manner as microplastic fillers.
[0125] (b) The hydrophilic filler can be selected from hydrophilic fillers that exhibit a negative zeta potential in the medium or hydrophilic fillers whose surfaces have a negative charge in the medium.
[0126] (b) The hydrophilic filler may be selected from fillers other than microplastic fillers.
[0127] The term "microplastic filler" as used herein means a synthetic polymer filler having an average particle size of 5 mm or less. The term "microplastic filler" is also understood herein to mean water-insoluble polymer solid particles having a size (all dimensions) of less than 5 mm and that are stable throughout their life cycle.
[0128] Examples of microplastic fillers include, but are not limited to, acrylic polymer powder, silicone powder, wax powder, polyamide powder, urethane polymer powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder, polyacrylonitrile powder, poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder, lauroyl lysine, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder.
[0129] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) hydrophilic filler comprises two or more types of hydrophilic fillers. In a specific embodiment, the (b) hydrophilic filler comprises a combination of at least one inorganic hydrophilic filler and at least one organic hydrophilic filler.
[0130] The amount of (b) hydrophilic filler in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, even more preferably 8% by weight or more, in particular 10% by weight or more, and / or 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or less, even more preferably 18% by weight or less, in particular 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] The amount of (b) hydrophilic filler in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 25% by mass, more preferably 5% by mass to 20% by mass, even more preferably 8% by mass to 18% by mass, and particularly 10% by mass to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0132] (organically modified clay) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one organically modified clay. Two or more types of organically modified clay may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organically modified clay or a combination of different types of organically modified clay may be used.
[0133] "Organo-modified clay" is intended to mean any clay that has been modified with an organic compound, thereby exhibiting liposolubility or lipodispersibility in the oily phase of the composition. As such, (c) organically modified clays may be present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention and can be distinguished from (b) hydrophilic fillers, which are readily dispersible in water.
[0134] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure. Clays used in (c) organically modified clays can include, for example, smectites, such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite, and saponite, as well as stevensites and chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0135] The clay may preferably be selected from bentonite and hectorite.
[0136] The clay may be modified with a compound selected from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay is modified with Quaternium-18, or C 10 ~C 22 It may be modified with ammonium chloride of a fatty acid and / or aryldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride.
[0137] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, in particular C 10 ~C 22Organically modified clays selected from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, modified with quaternary ammonium chlorides, are used, such as: bentonites modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the names Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250, Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR by BYK Additives Inc. or the commercial products sold under the names Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by Bentec SPA, bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as Dub Velvet Gum® from Stearineries Dubois Fils, Myglyol GEL T® manufactured by Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 commercially available products manufactured by BYK Additives Inc., hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone® 38V by the company Elementis Specialities, Hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the products sold under the names Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V, Bentone® Gel PTM V, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V, Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities, the commercial products sold under the names Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop, the commercial products sold under the names NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS®, NS MGel 1152®.
[0138] (c) The organically modified clay is preferably selected from organically modified hectorite, bentonite and mixtures thereof, in particular hectorite, bentonite and mixtures thereof, which have been treated with alkylammonium salts.
[0139] The amount of (c) organically modified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.2% by mass or more, and / or 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0140] The amount of (c) organically modified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.05% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.2% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0141] (oily medium) The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oily medium. When two or more (d) oily mediums are used, they may be the same or different.
[0142] (d) The oily medium may constitute the fatty or oily phase, which may be the continuous phase, in the composition according to the invention.
[0143] (d) The oily medium may comprise an oil and an oleophilic solvent.
[0144] As used herein, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid, a paste (non-solid), or a solid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the oil is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C).
[0145] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester or ether oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0146] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
[0147] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0148] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.
[0149] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0150] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 It is a liquid ester of an aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is 10 or more.
[0151] Preferably, in esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0152] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0153] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0154] Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0155] Ester oils include C6 to C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms and containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0156] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, e.g. methylglucose.
[0157] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are formed by the abovementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixed esters with fatty acids. When they are unsaturated, these compounds can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0158] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0160] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0161] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0162] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like. Examples of the glycerin-based glycerin include glyceryl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0163] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylic / caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0164] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.
[0165] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.
[0166] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain one or more organic functional groups in their structure that are bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups.
[0167] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in detail by Walter Noll, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0168] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly chosen from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 and by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the following type, such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane of the following formula, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide:
[0169] [ka]
[0170] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having a viscosity of less than 1 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article published by Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Appendix C.
[0171] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used.These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mainly mentioned.Preferably, polydialkylsiloxanes are selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS, dimethicone).
[0172] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as 70 047 V 500 000 oil, oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g., 60,000mm viscosity 2 DC 200 / s, and Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).
[0173] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0174] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oils.
[0175] The phenylsilicone oil may be chosen from phenylsilicones of the following formula:
[0176] [ka]
[0177] (In the formula, R1~R 10 are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably C1-C 12 a hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1 to C6 hydrocarbon group, specifically a methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl group; m, n, p, and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900, preferably 0 to 500, more preferably 0 to 100, inclusive; However, the sum n+m+q is not 0.
[0178] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names: Silbione® oils from Rhodia, 70 641 series; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil, manufactured by Dow Corning; - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0179] Phenyl silicone oils include phenyl trimethicone (wherein R to R 10 is methyl, p, q and n=0, and m=1).
[0180] The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, and examples thereof include silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils manufactured by Union Carbide.
[0181] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0182] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0183] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols refers to a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0184] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R—OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl groups and C 12 ~C 20 R may be selected from alkenyl groups, which may be substituted or unsubstituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0185] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0186] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0187] Therefore, fatty alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 The alcohol may be selected from:
[0188] Here, the term "saturated fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Preferably, the alcohol is selected from linear or branched, saturated C6-C aliphatic alcohols. 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols are preferably used. More preferably, any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols can be used. Even more preferably, branched C 16 ~C 20 Aliphatic alcohols can be used.
[0189] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.
[0190] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] Fatty acids that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure may be saturated or unsaturated and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, 9 to 30 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, the fatty acids may be selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid.
[0192] (d) It may be preferred that the oily medium may include synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0193] (d) It may be further preferred that the oily medium may include synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0194] The amount of (d) oily medium in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass or more, preferably 10% by mass or more, more preferably 15% by mass or more, even more preferably 20% by mass or more, and / or 70% by mass or less, preferably 60% by mass or less, more preferably 50% by mass or less, even more preferably 40% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0195] The amount of (d) oily medium in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 5% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 60% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 50% by mass, and even more preferably 20% by mass to 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0196] (Other ingredients) Lipophilic organic UV screening agent The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one lipophilic organic UV filter. Two or more types of lipophilic organic UV filters may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of lipophilic organic UV filter or a combination of different types of lipophilic organic UV filters may be used.
[0197] The term "UV" as used herein includes the UV-B region (wavelengths of 260 to 320 nm), the UV-A region (wavelengths of 320 to 400 nm), and the high-energy visible light region (wavelengths of 400 to 450 nm). Therefore, a UV filter means any material that has a filtering effect at ultraviolet wavelengths, specifically at wavelengths in the UV-A region, UV-B region, and high-energy visible light region.
[0198] The UV filters used in the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region, preferably in each of the UV-A and UV-B regions, either alone or in combination. Thus, UV filters used in the present invention include UV-A filters capable of absorbing UV radiation in the range of 320 to 400 nm, UV-B filters capable of absorbing UV radiation in the range of 280 to 320 nm, and UV-A and UV-B filters capable of absorbing UV radiation in the range of 280 to 400 nm.
[0199] The term "lipophilic UV filter" as used herein refers to a lipophilic UV filter at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 By "UV filters" is meant UV filters that are soluble in oil at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, e.g., at least 5% by weight or at least 10% by weight (in Pa) relative to the total weight of the oil.
[0200] The lipophilic organic UV filter may be a solid or a liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" refer to the liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 This refers to solids and liquids at 100 Pa.
[0201] Lipophilic organic UV-A screening agents for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, aminobenzophenone compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, anthranilic acid compounds, and 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds.
[0202] The aminobenzophenone compound may be n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, an alternative name of which is diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate (DHHB) sold by BASF under the trade name "Uvinul A+."
[0203] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane sold by Merck under the name "Eusolex 8020," 1-(4-methoxy-1-benzofuran-5-yl)-3-phenylpropane-1,3-dione and 1-(4-(tert-butyl)phenyl)-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione sold by Quest under the name "Pongamol," and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold by Hoffmann-La Roche under the trade name "Parsol 1789."
[0204] Mention may be made as an anthranilic acid compound of menthyl anthranilate sold under the name "NEO HELIPAN MA" by Symrise.
[0205] 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds include 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and diphenylbutadiene malonate and malononitrile.
[0206] Lipophilic organic UV-B screening agents for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, salicylic acid compounds, cinnamate compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, benzalmalonate compounds, and merocyanine compounds.
[0207] Examples of triazine compounds include ethylhexyl triazone sold by BASF under the name "UVINUL T-150," diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold by SIGMA 2V under the name "UVASORB HEB," 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, and 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine.
[0208] Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives include para-aminobenzoates (PABA), such as ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, commercially available from ISP under the name "ESCALOL 5972."
[0209] Salicylic acid compounds include homosalate, sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by Symrise.
[0210] Examples of cinnamate compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and isopropyl ethoxycinnamate, which are sold under the name "PARSOL CX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, cinoxate, and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate, which are sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by Symrise.
[0211] Mention may be made, as β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, of octocrylene, sold under the name "UVINUL N539" by the company BASF, and etocrylene, sold under the name "UVINUL N35" by the company BASF.
[0212] Examples of benzylidene camphor compounds include 3-benzylidene camphor commercially available from CHIMEX under the name "MEXORYL SD," methylbenzylidene camphor commercially available from MERCK under the name "EUSOLEX 6300," polyacrylamide methylbenzylidene camphor commercially available from CHIMEX under the name "MEXORYL SW," and terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid commercially available from Chimex under the name "Mexoryl SX."
[0213] Among the phenylbenzimidazole compounds that may be mentioned are phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid sold under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0214] An example of an imidazoline compound that may be mentioned is dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline ethylhexyl propionate.
[0215] Benzalmalonate compounds include polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate moieties, such as polysilicone-15 sold under the name "Parsol SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0216] The lipophilic organic UV filter of the present invention may include lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filter covering the UV-A and UV-B regions. The following are non-limiting examples of lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filter: benzophenone compounds, such as benzophenone-1 sold under the name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the name "UVINUL 500" by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the name "UVINUL M40" by BASF, benzophenone-6 sold under the name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-10, benzophenone-11 and benzophenone-12 sold under the name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, benzotriazole compounds, such as drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by the company Rhodia Chimie, bumetrizole sold under the name "TINOGUARTD AS" by the company CIBA-GEIGY, and phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: branched and linear 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylphenone, bis-resorcinyltriazine compounds, such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the name "TINOSORB S" by the company CIBA-GEIGY, and benzoxazole compounds, such as 2,4-bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name "Uvasorb K2A" by the company Sigma 3V.
[0217] Preferably, the lipophilic organic UV filter may be selected from aminobenzophenone compounds such as diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate (DHHB), dibenzoylmethane compounds such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, triazine compounds such as ethylhexyl triazone, salicylic acid compounds such as homosalate, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds such as octocrylene, and benzotriazole compounds such as drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0218] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the lipophilic organic UV filter of the present invention comprises a combination of at least one lipophilic organic UV-A filter and at least one lipophilic organic UV-B filter.
[0219] Therefore, in another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the lipophilic organic UV filter comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV-A filter selected from aminobenzophenone compounds and dibenzoylmethane compounds, and at least one lipophilic organic UV-B filter selected from triazine compounds, salicylic acid compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, and benzotriazole compounds.
[0220] The amount of lipophilic organic UV screening agent in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] In one particular embodiment of the present invention, the amount of lipophilic organic UV-A screening agent in the composition may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] In another particular embodiment of the present invention, the amount of lipophilic organic UV-B screening agent in the composition may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0223] In yet another particular embodiment of the present invention, the amount of lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B screening agent in the composition may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] -Hydrophilic organic solvents acceptable for use in cosmetics The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. Examples of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvents include substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, sorbitol, the monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, such as the monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as the monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6, and PEG-8, and derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof.
[0225] The amount of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 1 to 20% by mass, preferably 2 to 15% by mass, more preferably 3 to 12% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0226] ·water The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.
[0227] Water can form an aqueous phase, specifically a plurality of discontinuous dispersed aqueous phases in the form of droplets of the W / O emulsion composition according to the present invention.
[0228] The amount of water in the composition may be 2% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and 60% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 40% by weight or less, even more preferably 35% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0229] The amount of water in the composition may be in the range of 2% to 60% by mass, preferably 5% to 50% by mass, more preferably 10% to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 15% to 35% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0230] Surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0231] Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the invention include polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (INCI names: laureth-9 to laureth-50), in particular laureth-9; esters of polyols with fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. those containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glycerol with C8 to C6 fatty acids. 24 Esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearates (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearates), such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate; 24 Esters with fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, e.g., C8-C 24Polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of fatty acids, in particular polysorbate 80, such as the product sold under the name "TWEEN 80" by Croda; sugars and C8-C 24 Ethers with fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamides; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups, e.g., PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone, and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, especially those containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms. and those having an alkyl group having 2 to 50 oxyethylene groups and 2 to 50 oxypropylene groups, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone) and lauryl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone); and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.
[0232] Additionally, the nonionic surfactant may include alkyl polyglycosides represented by the following general formula (1): RO-(G) x (1) (wherein R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl group containing 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, x has a value ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 4, and G represents, in particular, glucose, fructose, or galactose). Alkyl polyglycosides of this type include alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)), in particular compounds of formula (I) in which R is more particularly an oleyl group (an unsaturated C18 group) or isostearyl (saturated C 18 Examples of suitable alkyl polyglucosides include those in which G is a 2-hydroxybenzoate group, G is glucose, and x is a value between 1 and 2, in particular isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. These alkyl polyglucosides can be used in mixtures with coemulsifiers, more particularly with fatty alcohols, in particular with fatty alcohols having the same fatty chain as the alkyl polyglucoside, i.e., 14 to 24 carbon atoms and a branched and / or unsaturated chain (e.g., isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside, or oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside). For example, a mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol sold by Seppic under the name Montanov WO 18, and also a mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold by Seppic under the name Fludanov 20X, can be used.
[0233] The amount of surfactant in the composition may be 0.1 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, more preferably 1 to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0234] The present invention may be characterized in that a stable composition containing dispersed hydrophilic fillers can be achieved with a small amount of surfactant. A small amount of surfactant can contribute to improved substantivity and a light texture of the composition. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, the amount of surfactant in the composition may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and particularly 3% by weight or less.
[0235] In another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises anionic and / or cationic surfactants in an amount of at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 3% by weight, more preferably at most 1% by weight, even more preferably at most 0.5% by weight, and in particular at most 0.1% by weight. In yet another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain anionic and / or cationic surfactants.
[0236] Inorganic UV screening agents The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one inorganic UV filter. Two or more inorganic UV filters can be combined.
[0237] The inorganic UV filter used in the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents commonly used in cosmetics, such as water and ethanol.
[0238] The inorganic UV filter used in the present invention is different from the powder (b) of the present invention.
[0239] The inorganic UV filter is preferably in the form of fine particles having an average (primary) particle diameter of 1 nm to 150 nm, preferably 5 nm to 100 nm, more preferably 10 nm to 50 nm. In this specification, the average (primary) particle size or average (primary) particle diameter refers to the arithmetic mean diameter.
[0240] The inorganic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of metal oxides, which may be coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.
[0241] Preferably, the inorganic UV filter can be selected from pigments formed from metal oxides (average primary particle size: generally 5 to 50 nm, preferably 10 to 50 nm), such as pigments formed from titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, all of which are UV photoprotective agents known per se. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter can be selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, more preferably titanium oxide.
[0242] The inorganic UV filter may be coated or uncoated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicone, silane, fatty acid or its salt (e.g., sodium salt, potassium salt, zinc salt, iron salt, or aluminum salt), fatty alcohol, lecithin, amino acid, polysaccharide, protein, alkanolamine, wax (e.g., beeswax), (meth)acrylic polymer, organic UV filter, and (per)fluoro compound.
[0243] As is known, the silicones in the coating may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers, including linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structures of various molecular weights, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes, and consisting essentially of main repeating units in which silicon atoms are bonded to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bonds) and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups are bonded directly to said silicon atoms via carbon atoms.
[0244] The silicone used in the coating can be preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. Even more preferably, the silicone is selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxane, and polymethylhydrosiloxane.
[0245] Of course, inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may be treated with other surfacing agents, in particular cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof, before their treatment with silicone.
[0246] The amount of inorganic UV screening agent in the composition may range from 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0247] Adjuvants The compositions according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for sun care products, which may be chosen from physiologically acceptable vehicles, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, neutralizing agents, alkaline agents such as sodium hydroxide, sequestering agents such as trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, disodium EDTA, and phytic acid, buffers such as tromethamine, fragrances, emollients, dispersants, dyes and / or pigments, film-forming agents such as film-forming silicone resins, for example trimethylsiloxysilicate, thickeners, ceramides, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, co-preservatives, and opacifiers.
[0248] The adjuvant may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] The composition according to the invention comprises microplastic fillers in an amount of at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 3% by weight, more preferably at most 1% by weight, even more preferably at most 0.05% by weight, in particular at most 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] More preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain microplastic fillers.
[0251] The composition according to the present invention may be intended for use as a topical cosmetic composition. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be intended for application to keratinous materials. In this specification, keratinous materials refer to materials containing keratin as a main component, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, etc. In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be a skin suncare cosmetic composition for protecting skin from ultraviolet rays.
[0252] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components (a) to (d) and the optional components described above.
[0253] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyamines and having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000; (b) 1% to 30% by weight of at least one hydrophilic filler selected from talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, silica silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and natural polymer powders such as polysaccharide powders, e.g., starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof; (c) 0.05% to 5% by weight of at least one organically modified clay selected from organically modified bentonite and organically modified hectorite; and (d) an oily medium comprising 5% to 70% by mass of an ester oil, a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, a fatty acid, or a mixture thereof;
[0254] According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: (a) 0.1% to 1% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof, having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000; (b) 10% to 15% by weight of at least one hydrophilic filler selected from silica, starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof; (c) 0.2% by mass to 1% by mass of C 10 ~C 22(c) at least one organically modified clay selected from hectorite and bentonite modified with quaternary ammonium chloride; and (d) an oily medium containing 20% to 40% by mass of an ester oil, a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or a mixture thereof;
[0255] [Beauty method] The present invention also provides The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials such as the skin, which comprises the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.
[0256] The composition according to the present invention can be preferably used as a cosmetic composition, which may be a sun care composition for protecting keratin materials, such as skin, from ultraviolet rays.
[0257] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the surface of keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0258] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic method for protecting keratinous materials from UV radiation, which comprises at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous materials, such as the skin. [Example]
[0259] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0260] [Composition] Each of the W / O emulsion compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 (Comp. Ex. 1 to Comp. Ex. 4) was prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1 below. Specifically, the "oil phase" components and the "aqueous phase" components were first mixed, followed by adding the "filler" component and ethanol to the mixture, which was then mixed until homogeneous. The numbers in parentheses for the powder components indicate the average particle size of the powder components. "Oil medium" in the table refers to the (d) oil medium components other than "dimethicone." All values relating to the amount of components are based on the "mass %" of the active ingredients.
[0261] [evaluation] (viscosity) The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was measured at room temperature (25°C) at 6 rpm using a Brookfield viscometer with rotor number 4. The measurement was carried out for 1 minute.
[0262] (stability) Each of the resulting emulsion compositions in the beaker was kept at 25°C for 5 days after preparation. The appearance of each sample was then observed with the naked eye. The stability characteristics of each composition were evaluated according to the following criteria: 1: No phase separation observed; 2: Some phase separation was observed, but the product was still stable enough. 3: Phase separation was clearly observed.
[0263] (Filler agglomeration) The state of filler aggregation in the bulk of each emulsion composition was observed under a microscope, and the state of filler aggregation for each composition was evaluated according to the following criteria: 1: No filler aggregation was observed; 2: Some filler aggregation is not observed, 3: Filler aggregation was clearly observed.
[0264] (Dielectric constant) The bulk dielectric constant of each of the emulsion compositions was measured under ambient conditions using a multi-parameter meter (Orion™ Versa Star, Thermo Fisher Scientific).
[0265] The results are shown in Table 2 below.
[0266] [Table 1]
[0267] [Table 2]
[0268] As can be seen from the evaluation results in Table 2, the W / O emulsion compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which contained a combination of (a) a cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000, (b) a hydrophilic filler, and (c) an organically modified clay, exhibited low viscosity, good stability, and did not exhibit filler aggregation even without the inclusion of a microplastic filler.
[0269] On the other hand, in the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which do not contain the cationic polymer (a) of the present invention, aggregation of the filler was observed.
[0270] Therefore, it can be concluded that the W / O emulsion composition according to the present invention is highly preferable as a suncare cosmetic composition.
Claims
1. (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 20,000 to 500,000; (b) at least one hydrophilic filler; (c) at least one organically modified clay, and (d) at least one oil-based medium A W / O emulsion composition comprising the above, wherein the composition comprises a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, or the composition is free of a microplastic filler.
2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polyamines.
3. 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, polylysine, and mixtures thereof.
4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic filler is selected from talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, silica silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metal soaps, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and natural polymer powders such as polysaccharide powders, e.g., starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the average particle size of the (b) hydrophilic filler is in the range of 0.2 μm to 50 μm, preferably 0.5 μm to 20 μm, more preferably 1 μm to 15 μm.
6. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the (b) hydrophilic filler comprises two or more types of (b) hydrophilic filler.
7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (b) the hydrophilic filler comprises a combination of at least one inorganic hydrophilic filler and at least one organic hydrophilic filler.
8. 8. The composition of claim 1, which is free of microplastic fillers.
9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) organically modified clay is selected from organically modified hectorite and organically modified bentonite.
10. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein (b) the hydrophilic filler is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein (c) the organically modified clay is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein (d) the oily medium is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. 14. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one lipophilic UV filter.
15. A cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as skin, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous materials.
Citation Information
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