Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics
The oil-in-water emulsion composition with specific surfactants and lustrous plate-like powder in an aqueous phase addresses the issues of stickiness and matte finish, providing sustained glossiness, freshness, and stability.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- KAO CORP
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics are oily and sticky, and formulations that enhance glossiness using brightening powders result in a matte finish, failing to achieve both good usability and glossiness simultaneously.
An oil-in-water emulsion composition containing nonionic surfactants with specific HLB ranges, higher alcohol, and hydrophobically treated lustrous plate-like powder in a continuous aqueous phase, forming a lamellar structure to provide sustained glossiness, freshness, and adhesion to the skin.
The composition offers excellent gloss retention, a fresh feel, prevents aggregate formation during application, and ensures high storage stability at elevated temperatures.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic.
Background Art
[0002] Generally, base makeup items such as foundation and makeup base contain a high concentration of pigment powders such as titanium oxide in order to hide (cover) pores and spots. Therefore, in the formulation of such base makeup items, it is necessary to contain a large amount of oily components in order to improve solubility and dispersibility, and they take the form of water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics. However, many of these water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics tend to be oily and sticky, and the poor usability has been a problem. In addition, by containing a high concentration of powder (inorganic oxide), the skin correcting power can be improved, but since it results in a matte finish, there has been a problem in the formulation technology that can achieve both a good usability and the expression of glossiness (Patent Document 1).
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0003]
Patent Document 1
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0004] In order to improve the glossiness by the brightening powder, it is necessary to blend a high concentration of silicone oil as described in Patent Document 1. Therefore, although it takes the form of a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic, there is a problem that it becomes an oily feeling. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic that has less stickiness, a fresh usability, and the glossiness based on the brightening powder is sustained.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0005] Therefore, the inventors have found that by containing two nonionic surfactants, each with a predetermined HLB range, a higher alcohol, a hydrophobically treated lustrous plate-like powder, and water, and by having the hydrophobically treated lustrous powder present in a continuous aqueous phase, an oil-in-water emulsion composition having a lamellar structure can be obtained, which provides sustained glossiness based on the lustrous powder, a fresh feel, good adhesion to the skin, an effect of preventing aggregation during application, and excellent storage stability at high temperatures.
[0006] In other words, the present invention comprises the following components (A) to (E): (A) Nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 6.0 or less (B) Nonionic surfactant with HLB greater than 6.0 (C) Higher alcohol (D) Hydrophobized bright plate-shaped powder (E)Water The present invention provides an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing, wherein component (D) is present in a continuous aqueous phase and has a lamellar structure. [Effects of the Invention]
[0007] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in terms of sustained glossiness based on lustrous powders, a fresh feel, adherence to the skin, prevention of aggregate formation during application, and storage stability at high temperatures. [Brief explanation of the drawing]
[0008] [Figure 1] The image shows a photograph taken with a polarizing microscope, revealing the lamellar structure. [Figure 2] The image shows a photograph taken with a polarizing microscope where the lamellar structure could not be confirmed. [Figure 3] This image, taken with a polarizing microscope, shows a lamellar structure, but also confirms the presence of lustrous plate-like powder in the internal phase (oil phase). [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0009] Terms used herein shall be used in the sense commonly used in the art unless otherwise specified.
[0010] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic in which hydrophobic treated lustrous plate-shaped powder is present in a continuous aqueous phase and has a lamellar structure. This structure provides excellent gloss retention based on the lustrous powder, a fresh feel, adherence to the skin, prevention of aggregate formation during application, and high storage stability at high temperatures. One aspect of the present invention is the following components (A) to (E): (A) Nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 6.0 or less (B) Nonionic surfactant with HLB greater than 6.0 (C) Higher alcohol (D) Hydrophobized bright plate-shaped powder (E)Water This is an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing (D), in which component (D) is present in a continuous aqueous phase and has a lamellar structure.
[0011] Component (A) used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 6.0 or less. Component (A) is preferably an ester-type nonionic surfactant, more preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of glycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, and propylene glycol fatty acid esters, even more preferably sorbitan fatty acid esters, even more preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of sorbitan fatty acid monoesters, sorbitan fatty acid diesters, and sorbitan fatty acid triesters, and even more preferably sorbitan fatty acid monoesters. The number of carbon atoms in the fatty acids constituting the nonionic surfactant of component (A) is preferably 8 to 24, more preferably 12 to 22, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsification stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powder, providing a fresh feel and good adhesion to the skin upon application, reducing the likelihood of aggregates upon application, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. Examples of fatty acids that make up the nonionic surfactant of component (A) include saturated fatty acids such as palmitic acid and stearic acid, and unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid and elaidic acid.
[0012] The HLB of component (A) forms a lamellar structure, improves emulsification stability, enhances the persistence of gloss based on the lustrous powder, provides a fresh feel and good adhesion to the skin when applied, reduces the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improves storage stability at high temperatures. It is preferably 6.0 or less, more preferably 5.5 or less, more preferably 5.0 or less, and more preferably 3.0 or more, more preferably 3.5 or more, and even more preferably 4.0 or more. Here, the HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) of component (A) is an index representing the ratio of the relative affinity of the surfactant to both liquids in an oil-water system, and can be calculated using the Griffin method (J.Soc.Cosm.Chem.,1954,5:249-256) from the following formula. HLB = 20 × [(Molecular weight of hydrophilic groups in the surfactant) / (Molecular weight of the surfactant)] Examples of hydrophilic groups contained in surfactants include hydroxyl groups and ethyleneoxy groups.
[0013] As component (A), specifically, glyceryl myristate (HLB: 3.5), glyceryl monostearate (HLB: 4.0), glyceryl isostearate (HLB: 4.0), glyceryl oleate (HLB: 2.5), sorbitan monostearate (HLB: 4.7), sorbitan monooleate (HLB: 4.3), sorbitan monoisostearate (HLB: 5.0), sorbitan tristearate (HLB: 2.1), sorbitan trioleate (HLB: 1.7), diglyceryl monostearate (HLB: 5.0), diglyceryl monooleate (HLB: 5.5), diglyceryl isostearate (HLB: 5.5), tetraglyceryl monostearate (HLB: 6.0), hexaglyceryl tristearate (HLB: 2.5), decaglyceryl pentastearate (HLB: 3.5), decaglyceryl pentaisostearate (HLB: 3.5), decaglyceryl pentaoleate (HLB: 3.5), propylene glycol monostearate (HLB: 3.5), etc. can be mentioned. Component (A) can be contained alone or in combination of two or more kinds.
[0014] Among these, component (A) forms a lamellar structure, improves emulsification stability, maintains glossiness based on lustrous powder, provides a fresh feel and adherence to the skin upon application, reduces the likelihood of aggregation upon application, and particularly improves storage stability at high temperatures. From this viewpoint, it is preferably glyceryl myristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl isostearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, and pentaisostearate. It is one or more selected from the group consisting of decaglyceryl benzoate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, and propylene glycol monostearate; more preferably, it is one or more selected from the group consisting of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, and diglyceryl monostearate; even more preferably, it is one or more selected from the group consisting of sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan monoisostearate; and even more preferably, it is sorbitan monostearate. Examples of commercially available products containing ingredient (A) include the Leodor series, such as Leodor SP-O10V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor SP-O30V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor SP-S10V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor SP-S30V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor MO-60 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor AS-10V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor AO-10V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), and Leodor AO-15V (manufactured by Kao Corporation).
[0015] The content of component (A) in the oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention forms a lamellar structure, improves the emulsion stability, maintains the glossiness based on the lustrous powder, provides a fresh feeling during application and a good adhesion to the skin, enhances the absence of aggregates during application, and further improves the storage stability at high temperatures. From this perspective, it is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.7% by mass or more, still more preferably 1% by mass or more, and preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, still more preferably 3% by mass or less. More specifically, it is preferably 0.1 - 6% by mass, more preferably 0.7 - 5% by mass, still more preferably 1 - 3% by mass.
[0016] The oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains a nonionic surfactant with an HLB value exceeding 6.0 as component (B). Component (B) is not particularly limited as long as it is a nonionic surfactant generally used in food and cosmetic raw materials. Examples include polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkanol ether, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, etc. More preferably, it is a sucrose fatty acid ester with an average degree of substitution of fatty acids of 2 or more. The sucrose fatty acid ester with a degree of substitution of 2 or more is an ester in which two or more hydrogen atoms of the hydroxyl groups of sucrose are substituted with fatty acid acyl groups. From the perspective of improving the emulsion stability, providing a fresh feeling during application and a good adhesion to the skin, enhancing the absence of aggregates during application, and further improving the storage stability at high temperatures, it is more preferably a sucrose fatty acid ester with an average degree of substitution of fatty acids of 2 or more and 6 or less.
[0017] The HLB of component (B) forms a lamellar structure, improves emulsification stability, enhances the persistence of gloss based on the lustrous powder, improves freshness and adhesion to the skin when applied, reduces the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improves storage stability at high temperatures. From this viewpoint, it is greater than 6.0, preferably 7.0 or higher, more preferably 12.0 or higher, even more preferably 14.0 or higher, and also preferably 20.0 or lower, more preferably 18.0 or lower, and even more preferably 17.0 or lower. More specifically, it is 7.0 to 20.0, more preferably 12.0 to 18.0, and even more preferably 14.0 to 17.0. Here, the HLB of component (B) can be determined from the above formula by the Griffin method, as described above.
[0018] The number of carbon atoms in the fatty acids constituting component (B), such as polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and sucrose fatty acid ester, is preferably 8 or more, more preferably 10 or more, even more preferably 12 or more, and preferably 20 or less, more preferably 18 or less, and even more preferably 16 or less, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsification stability, maintaining gloss based on lustrous powder, providing a fresh feel and good adhesion to the skin when applied, reducing the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More preferred specific examples of component (B) include sucrose caprylic acid ester, sucrose capric acid ester, sucrose lauric acid ester, sucrose myristic acid ester, sucrose palmitic acid ester, sucrose stearate ester, sucrose oleic acid ester, and the like. Component (B) may be contained as a single component or in combination of two or more components.
[0019] Among these, component (B) preferably contains one or more selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic acid, sucrose palmitate, and sucrose stearate, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsification stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powder, providing a fresh feel and good adhesion to the skin when applied, reducing the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More preferably, it contains one or more selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic acid, and sucrose palmitate, and even more preferably, it contains one or more selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate and sucrose myristic acid. If component (B) contains one or more selected from the group consisting of sucrose laurate ester and sucrose myristic acid ester, the total content of sucrose laurate ester and sucrose myristic acid ester in component (B) is preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 55% by mass or more, and even more preferably 60% by mass or more. Furthermore, component (B) is preferably composed of naturally derived fatty acids such as coconut oil, palm oil, and palm kernel oil, and more preferably coconut oil fatty acid sucrose ester, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsification stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powder, providing a fresh feel and good adhesion to the skin when applied, reducing the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. Commercially available products containing ingredient (B) include Ryoto Sugar Ester L-1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester M-1695, Ryoto Sugar Ester P-1570, Ryoto Sugar Ester P-1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester S-1570, Ryoto Sugar Ester S-1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester O-1570, Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 (all manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation), Leodor SP-L10 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor TW-L120 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor TW-O120V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Leodor TW-S120V (manufactured by Kao Corporation), and Emanon. Examples include CH-60(K) (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emulgen 103 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emulgen 104P (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emulgen 109P (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emulgen 120 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emulgen 220 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emanon 1112 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emanon 2003 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emanon 3101 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Emanon 3130 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), NIKKOL HCO-80 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), NIKKOL HCO-60 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), and others.
[0020] The content of component (B) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and preferably 1.5% by mass or less, more preferably 1% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsion stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powder, providing good freshness and adhesion to the skin upon application, reducing the absence of aggregates upon application, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More specifically, it is preferably 0.01 to 1.5% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 1% by mass, and even more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by mass.
[0021] In the present invention, nonionic surfactants other than components (A) and (B) may be included, but a mixed HLB of nonionic surfactants including components (A) and (B) forms a lamellar structure, improves the persistence of gloss based on lustrous powder, enhances emulsification stability, provides a good freshness and adherence to the skin when applied, reduces the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improves storage stability at high temperatures. From this viewpoint, the HLB is preferably 3.0 or higher, more preferably 4.0 or higher, even more preferably 5.0 or higher, and preferably 12.0 or lower, more preferably 9.0 or lower, and even more preferably 7.0 or lower. Here, the mixed HLB is the weighted average of the HLB of each nonionic surfactant based on their mass ratio, and can be calculated using the following formula. Mixed HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx) / ΣWx (HLBx represents the HLB of nonionic surfactant X. Wx represents the mass (g) of nonionic surfactant X.) Furthermore, ingredients (A) and (B) can be cosmetic raw materials that are mixtures of these, for example, SP Alacel 2121 MBAL-FL-(MV) (a mixture of sorbitan monostearate and coconut oil fatty acid sucrose ester, mass ratio (sorbitan monostearate / coconut oil fatty acid sucrose ester) = 9, manufactured by Croda).
[0022] The total content of components (A) and (B) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, even more preferably 1% by mass or more, and preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsion stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powders, providing good freshness and adhesion to the skin upon application, reducing the absence of aggregates upon application, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More specifically, it is preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 3% by mass.
[0023] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a higher alcohol as component (C). The carbon number of the higher alcohol component (C) is preferably 10 to 24, more preferably 12 to 24, even more preferably 14 to 24, and even more preferably 20 to 24, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsification stability, maintaining gloss based on the lustrous powder, providing a fresh feel and good adhesion to the skin when applied, reducing the likelihood of aggregates when applied, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. Component (C) may be either linear or branched, and may be either saturated or unsaturated, but from the same viewpoint as above, it is preferably a linear or branched saturated higher alcohol, and more preferably a linear saturated higher alcohol. Component (C) specifically includes myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, carnabyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, etc. Component (C) may be contained as a single element or in combination of two or more elements. Among these, component (C) is preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure and providing good freshness and adhesion to the skin when applied, more preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, and even more preferably behenyl alcohol. In addition, commercially available products of ingredient (C) include Calcol 200GD (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Calcol 2098 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Calcol 4098 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Calcol 6098 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), Calcol 8098 (manufactured by Kao Corporation), and Behenyl Alcohol 65 (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.).
[0024] The content of component (C) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, even more preferably 1% by mass or more, and preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, and even more preferably 6% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsion stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powder, providing good freshness and adhesion to the skin upon application, reducing the absence of aggregates upon application, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More specifically, it is preferably 0.05 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 6% by mass.
[0025] The mass ratio of the content of component (C) to the total content of components (A) and (B) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention [(C) / [(A)+(B)]] is preferably 0.005 or more, more preferably 0.05 or more, even more preferably 0.2 or more, and preferably 140 or less, more preferably 20 or less, and even more preferably 6 or less. More specifically, it is preferably 0.005 to 140, more preferably 0.05 to 20, and even more preferably 0.2 to 6.
[0026] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains hydrophobized, lustrous plate-like powder as component (D). In this invention, "lustrous plate-like powder" also refers to pearl pigment, and is intended to be particles that exhibit luster without containing colorants or phosphors. Pearl pigments generally take the form of flat plates, such as flakes or scales. As the lustrous plate-shaped powder, plate-shaped powders such as mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, glass, silica, and alumina have their surfaces coated with colorants such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, silicon dioxide, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, tin oxide, chromium hydroxide, gold, silver, carmine, and organic pigments. In addition, film rolls such as polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum vapor-deposited powder, and polyethylene terephthalate / gold vapor-deposited laminated powder can be cut into any shape. Of these, one or more selected from titanium mica, iron oxide-coated titanium mica, carmine-coated titanium mica, carmine / Prussian blue-coated titanium mica, iron oxide / carmine-treated titanium mica, silica-coated mica, and titanium dioxide-coated mica are preferred. The lustrous plate-like powder used in the present invention is preferably hydrophobized, and the hydrophobic treatment can be one or more selected from the group consisting of silicone treatment; alkylalkoxysilane treatment; fatty acid treatment; fluorine-containing compound treatment with perfluoroalkyl phosphate ester, perfluoroalcohol, etc.; amino acid treatment with N-acyl glutamic acid, etc.; lecithin treatment; metal soap treatment; alkyl phosphate ester treatment; and ASI treatment with N-acyl amino acid metal salt (sodium lauroyl aspartate), zinc chloride, and alkoxytitanium alkylate (isopropyl titanium triisostearate). These surface treatments may be applied individually or in combination of two or more types.
[0027] The content of component (D) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, even more preferably 1% by mass or more, and preferably 7% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsion stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powder, providing good freshness and adhesion to the skin upon application, reducing the absence of aggregates upon application, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More specifically, it is preferably 0.1 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 3% by mass.
[0028] Component (E) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is water. Water constitutes the continuous phase in the oil-in-water emulsion form and is also necessary for forming a lamellar structure. The content of component (E) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 45% by mass or more, even more preferably 50% by mass or more, and preferably 80% by mass or less, more preferably 70% by mass or less, and even more preferably 60% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of forming a lamellar structure, improving emulsion stability, maintaining glossiness based on lustrous powders, providing a fresh feel and adherence to the skin upon application, reducing the absence of aggregates upon application, and further improving storage stability at high temperatures. More specifically, it is preferably 40-80% by mass, more preferably 45-70% by mass, and even more preferably 50-60% by mass.
[0029] In order to improve emulsification stability, freshness upon application, and adherence to the skin, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may utilize water-soluble thickeners, liquid oils, polyhydric alcohols, etc. The water-soluble thickener is preferably a water-soluble polymer and is not limited as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics. Natural polymers, semi-synthetic polymers, and synthetic polymers can all be used, and specifically, carbomers, xanthan gum, and the like can be used. The liquid oil is an oil that has fluidity under 1 atmosphere and 25°C. Preferably, it is one or more selected from the group consisting of ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and higher fatty acids. Examples of ester oils include synthetic ester oils and natural oils and fats. Examples include esters of monocarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohols, esters of monocarboxylic acids and polyhydric alcohols, and esters of polyhydric acids and monohydric alcohols. Specific examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene (liquid isoparaffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin), cycloparaffin, liquid ozoke, lyte, squalene, squalane, pristane, α-olefin oligomer, polybutene, isohexadecane, and the like. Examples of higher fatty acids include oleic acid and isostearic acid, which have 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Liquid oils can contain one type of fatty acid alone or a combination of two or more types. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (average molecular weight less than 650), 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol), 1,3-propanediol (propanediol), dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol (average molecular weight less than 650), isoprene glycol, and 1,3-butylene glycol; and polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, diglycerin, and polyglycerin. Among these, polyhydric alcohols having 2 to 12 carbon atoms are preferred, more preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol), 1,3-propanediol (propanediol), dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and glycerin, and even more preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and glycerin. These alcohols can be used individually or in combination of two or more.
[0030] In addition to the above-mentioned components, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain ultraviolet absorbers, ultraviolet scattering agents, spherical powders, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, bactericidal agents, moisturizers, and the like. These may be used individually or in combination of two or more.
[0031] The (F) ultraviolet absorber used in the present invention may be one or more selected from (F1) liquid ultraviolet absorbers and (F2) solid ultraviolet absorbers. In this invention, "solid state" means a state in which the substance does not exhibit fluidity and maintains a constant shape under an environment of 1 atmosphere and 25°C, that is, a state under temperature conditions below the melting point (or, in the case of amorphous substances that do not have a melting point, a state under temperature conditions below the melting point). On the other hand, "liquid state" means a state in which the substance exhibits fluidity under an environment of 1 atmosphere and 25°C, that is, a state under temperature conditions above the melting point (or, in the case of amorphous substances that do not have a melting point, a state under temperature conditions above the melting point).
[0032] (F1) Liquid UV absorbers are organic UV absorbers that are liquid at 25°C, and examples include cinnamic acid-based UV absorbers such as 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl paramethoxycinnamate, isopropyl paramethoxycinnamate / diisopropyl cinnamic acid ester mixture, and methylbis(trimethylsiloxy)silylisopentyl trimethoxycinnamate; paraaminobenzoic acid-based UV absorbers such as amyl paradimethylaminobenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate; salicylic acid-based UV absorbers such as ethylene glycol salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, butyloctyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, and homomentyl salicylate; octocrylene; dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate; and copolymers in which the ends of a copolymer of adipic acid and neopentyl glycol are sealed with octyldodecanol or cyanodiphenylpropenoic acid. These liquid organic ultraviolet absorbers can be contained individually or in appropriate combinations of two or more types.
[0033] Examples of commercially available liquid organic UV absorbers include "UVINUL MC80" (2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, listed name: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, manufactured by BASF); "PARSOL 340" (list name: octocrylene, manufactured by DSM Nutrition Japan Co., Ltd.); "PARSOL EHS" (2-ethylhexyl salicylate); "PARSOL HMS" (homomenthyl salicylate); "PARSOLSLX" (polysilicone-15 (INCI name: Polysilicone-15) (dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate)) (all manufactured by DSM); and "Polycrylene" (polyester-8 (INCI name: Polyester-8) (a copolymer of adipic acid and neopentyl glycol, with the ends sealed with octyldodecanol or cyanodiphenylpropenoic acid)) (manufactured by Hallstar).
[0034] (F2) Examples of solid ultraviolet absorbers include organic ultraviolet absorbers that are solid at 25°C, such as 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, drometrizole trisiloxane, 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidinepropionate, drometrizole trisiloxane, ferulic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, etc. These UV absorbers can be included individually or in combination of two or more.
[0035] Among these, solid UV absorbers are preferably 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane One or more selected from the group consisting of san, ferulic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, more preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)hexyl benzoate, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, and 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, and drometrizole trisiloxane.
[0036] Commercially available solid UV absorbers include "PARSOL 1789" (4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane) (manufactured by DSM); "UVINUL A PLUS" (2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)hexyl benzoate); "UVINUL T-150" (2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, display name: ethylhexyltriazone); "UVINUL M40" (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone); "TINOSORB S" (2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine) (all manufactured by BASF); "Mosacare A440" (drometrizole trisiloxane) (UFC) Examples include: "Soft Shade DH" (2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate) (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.), "EUSOLEX 232" (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) (manufactured by Merck), and "Solfilter TDSA" (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid) (manufactured by Chirochem).
[0037] The content of (F) ultraviolet absorber in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less, more preferably 2% by mass or more and 20% by mass or less, and even more preferably 10% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of obtaining an ultraviolet protection effect.
[0038] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention forms a lamellar structure, and because the hydrophobic treated lustrous plate-shaped powder is stably contained in a continuous aqueous phase rather than an oil phase, it provides excellent gloss retention based on the lustrous powder, a fresh feel upon application, and good adhesion to the skin, while also reducing the likelihood of aggregates forming upon application. The presence or absence of a lamellar structure can be confirmed by polarized light observation using a polarizing microscope, "ECLIPSE LV100 POL" (manufactured by Nikon Corporation). Figure 1 shows a polarized light microscope image in which a lamellar structure was confirmed. Figure 2 shows a polarized light microscope image in which a lamellar structure was not confirmed. Furthermore, Figure 3 shows a polarized light microscope image in which a lamellar structure was found and the presence of lustrous plate-like powder in the internal phase (oil phase) was confirmed.
[0039] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention having such a lamellar structure and emulsion form preferably includes, for example, a step of emulsifying a preparation of an aqueous phase component containing at least component (A) and component (B) and a preparation of an oil phase component containing at least component (C) with a low shear force, and then further including a step of applying a shear force to disperse component (D) in the outer phase (aqueous phase). There are no particular restrictions on the stirring means used for emulsification, as long as it can provide a low shear force. Examples include "Homomixer," "Disper" (trade name, manufactured by Primix Co., Ltd.), "Creamix" (trade name, manufactured by M-Technique Co., Ltd.), and "Cavitron" (trade name, manufactured by Taiheiyo Kiko Co., Ltd.). Among these, the homomixer is preferred from the viewpoint of being able to emulsify with a low shear force. When using a homomixer, the rotation speed of the homomixer is preferably 3,000 rpm or more, and preferably 8,000 rpm or less. In the manufacturing method of the present invention, from the viewpoint of emulsifying with a low shear force, it is preferable to adjust the viscosity of the mixture of the aqueous phase component preparation and the oil phase component preparation by adjusting the blending order of each component of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. Furthermore, in the present invention, when component (D) is dispersed in the outer phase (aqueous phase), it is preferable to add it after emulsification of the aqueous phase component preparation and the oil phase component preparation. When using a homomixer, from the viewpoint of not disrupting the lamellar structure of the emulsion particles, a method of applying a low shear force is preferable, and the rotation speed of the homomixer is preferably 3,000 rpm or more, and preferably 8,000 rpm or less. Furthermore, if the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic further contains a water-soluble thickener as another component, it is preferable to add it after emulsifying the aqueous phase component preparation and the oil phase component preparation. The dispersion medium for component (D) is not particularly limited as long as it is a solvent that lowers surface tension, but ethanol and polyhydric alcohols are preferred, and ethanol is more preferred.
[0040] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention provides a long-lasting glossiness based on lustrous plate-like powders, excellent freshness upon application, and good adhesion to the skin. Since it does not form aggregates upon application, it can be used as a serum, cream, makeup base, sunscreen, and the like.
[0041] With regard to the embodiments described above, the present invention further discloses the following cosmetic composition. <1> The following components (A) to (E): (A) Nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 6.0 or less (B) Nonionic surfactant with HLB greater than 6.0 (C) Higher alcohol (D) Hydrophobized bright plate-shaped powder (E)Water An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing, wherein component (D) is present in a continuous aqueous phase and has a lamellar structure. <2> Component (A) is one or more nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of glycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, and propylene glycol fatty acid esters, with an HLB of 6.0 or less. <1> The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic described above. <3> The content of component (A) is 0.1 to 6% by mass, preferably 0.7 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 3% by mass. <1> or <2> The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic described above. <4> Component (B) is one or more selected from polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkanol ether, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and sucrose fatty acid ester. <1> ~ <3> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <5> Component (B) is a sucrose fatty acid ester, which is a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of greater than 6.0. <1> ~ <4> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <6> The content of component (B) is 0.01 to 1.5% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 1% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by mass. <1> ~ <5> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <7> The total content of component (A) and component (B) is 0.1 to 6% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 3% by mass. <1> ~ <6> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <8> The content of component (C) is 0.05 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 6% by mass. <1> ~ <7> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <9> The mass ratio of the content of component (C) to the total content of component (A) and component (B) [(C) / [(A)+(B)]] is 0.005 to 140, preferably 0.05 to 20, and more preferably 0.2 to 6. <1> ~ <8> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <10> Component (D) is one or more selected from hydrophobized titanium mica, iron oxide coated titanium mica, carmine coated titanium mica, carmine-ultramarine coated titanium mica, iron oxide-carmine treated titanium mica, silica coated mica, and titanium oxide coated mica. <1> ~ <9> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <11> The content of component (D) is 0.1 to 7% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 3% by mass. <1> ~ <10> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <12> Furthermore, it contains one or more selected from water-soluble thickeners, liquid oils (other than component (C)), and polyhydric alcohols. <1> ~ <11> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic as described in any of the following. <13> Furthermore, (F) contains an ultraviolet absorber, <1> ~ <12> An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic product as described in any of the following. [Examples]
[0042] The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited in any way to these examples.
[0043] Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-6 Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics containing the ingredients listed in Tables 1-3 were manufactured, and the presence or absence of lamellar structure, the state of component (D), finish and feel (sustained shine, fresh feel, adherence to skin), usability (absence of aggregates), and storage stability were evaluated. The results are shown in Tables 1-3. In Tables 1-3, sorbitan monostearate*1 and coconut oil fatty acid sucrose ester*1 are mixtures of these ingredients, and are indicated as "SP Alacel 2121 MBAL-FL-(MV) (mixture of sorbitan monostearate and coconut oil fatty acid sucrose ester, mass ratio (sorbitan monostearate / coconut oil fatty acid sucrose ester) = 9, manufactured by Croda)."
[0044] Examples 1-3 (Manufacturing method) (Process 1) Component (A), component (B), and other water-soluble components are heated with a portion of component (E) at 80°C for 20 minutes to dissolve them and obtain preparation (i). (Process 2) Component (C) and other oil-soluble components are heated at 80°C for 20 minutes to dissolve them and obtain preparation (ii). (Step 3) Product (iii) is obtained by dispersing component (D) with ethanol. (Step 4) The preparation (i) obtained in step 1 and the preparation (ii) obtained in step 2 are mixed to obtain preparation (iv). (Step 5) The preparation (iv) obtained in step 4 is emulsified using a homomixer (product name, manufactured by Primix Co., Ltd., 4,500 rpm, 2 minutes) while maintaining the temperature at 70°C or higher to obtain preparation (v). (Step 6) After cooling the preparation (v) obtained in step 5 to 35°C, the preparation (iii) obtained in step 3 and a water-soluble thickener, carbomer, were added and dispersed using a homomixer (4,500 rpm, 3 minutes) to obtain each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.
[0045] Comparative Example 1 (Manufacturing method) An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3, except that step 3 of Examples 1 to 3 was omitted.
[0046] Comparative Example 2 (Manufacturing method) In step 5 of Examples 1 to 3, an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3, except for the step of emulsifying the preparation (iv) obtained in step 4 with a homomixer (product name, manufactured by Primix Co., Ltd., 12,000 rpm, 10 minutes) while maintaining the temperature at 70°C or higher to obtain preparation (v').
[0047] Comparative Example 3 (Manufacturing method) An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3, except that in step 2, component (C), component (D), and other oil-soluble components were heated at 80°C for 20 minutes to dissolve them and obtain preparation (ii').
[0048] Comparative Example 4 (Manufacturing method) Except for step 1 of Examples 1 to 3, in which component (B) and other water-soluble components are heated with a portion of component (E) at 80°C for 20 minutes to dissolve and obtain preparation (i'), an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3.
[0049] Comparative Example 5 (Manufacturing method) Except for step 1 of Examples 1 to 3, in which component (A) and other water-soluble components are heated with a portion of component (E) at 80°C for 20 minutes to dissolve and obtain preparation (i''), an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3.
[0050] Comparative Example 6 (Manufacturing method) Except for step 2 of Examples 1 to 3, in which an oil-soluble component without component (C) is heated at 80°C for 20 minutes to dissolve it and obtain preparation (ii''), an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3.
[0051] (1) Confirmation of lamellar structure The lamellar structure was confirmed by polarized light observation using a polarizing microscope, "ECLIPSE LV100 POL" (manufactured by Nikon Corporation). Samples in which a lamellar structure was confirmed were marked "Present," and those in which it was not marked "Absent." Polarized light microscope images of Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 are shown in Figures 1 and 2, respectively. In Example 2, as shown in Figure 1, a Maltese cross pattern indicating the formation of a lamellar structure was observed. However, in Comparative Example 2, as shown in Figure 2, a Maltese cross pattern could not be observed.
[0052] (2) Finish and feel (long-lasting shine, fresh feel, adherence to skin) Each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was subjected to a usage test by three cosmetic expert panelists. Each panelist used each cosmetic and evaluated "shine retention after 6 hours," "fresh feel," and "adhesion to the skin" on a 5-point scale based on the evaluation criteria below. The average score for each cosmetic was calculated from the sum of the scores from the three panelists. [Evaluation Criteria] 5: Good, 4: Fair, 3: Average, 2: Slightly Poor, 1: Poor The average values for each evaluation are shown in Tables 1 and 2. A higher average value indicates a better effect. If the average value is 4.0 or higher, it is considered very good (A). If the average value is between 3.5 and less than 4.0, it is considered good (B). If the average value is between 3.0 and less than 3.5, it is considered normal (C). If the average value is between 2.0 and less than 3.0, it is considered slightly poor (D). If the average value is less than 2.0, it is considered poor (E). (C) or higher is a passing grade.
[0053] (3) Usability (absence of aggregates) Each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was subjected to usage tests by three cosmetic expert panelists. Each panelist used each cosmetic and evaluated the "absence of aggregates" on a 5-point scale based on the evaluation criteria below, assigning a score. The average score for each cosmetic was calculated from the sum of the scores from the three panelists. [Evaluation Criteria] 5: Good, 4: Fair, 3: Average, 2: Slightly Poor, 1: Poor Table 1 shows the average values for each evaluation. A higher average value indicates a better effect. If the average value is 4.0 or higher, it is considered very good (A). If the average value is between 3.5 and less than 4.0, it is considered good (B). If the average value is less than 3.5 or 3.0 or greater, it is considered normal (C). If the average value is less than 3.0 or greater than or equal to 2.0, it is considered slightly poor (D). If the average value is less than 2.0, it is considered poor (E). (C) or higher is a passing grade.
[0054] (4) Storage stability Each oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was left to stand at 50°C for one month, and the emulsion state was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. [Evaluation Criteria] (A): Even upon close inspection, there is absolutely no change in appearance. (B): Even upon close inspection, there is almost no change in appearance. (C): Upon close inspection, slight changes in appearance can be observed, but at first glance, there is no apparent change. (D): Cohesion of emulsified droplets occurs, resulting in a rough appearance. (E): The oil phase and the aqueous phase separate, resulting in an uneven appearance. (C) or higher is a passing grade.
[0055] [Table 1]
[0056] [Table 2]
[0057] [Table 3]
[0058] We manufactured the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (cream) shown in Table 4.
[0059] [Table 4]
[0060] We manufactured the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (sunscreen) shown in Table 5.
[0061] [Table 5]
Claims
1. The following components (A) to (E): (A) Nonionic surfactants with an HLB of 6.0 or less (B) Nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 6.0 or higher (C) Higher alcohol (D) Hydrophobically treated glossy plate-shaped powder (E) Water An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing, wherein component (D) is present in a continuous aqueous phase and has a lamellar structure.
2. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (A) is one or more selected from the group consisting of glycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, and propylene glycol fatty acid esters, and is a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 6.0 or less.
3. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (A) is 0.1 to 6% by mass.
4. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (B) is one or more selected from polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkanol ether, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and sucrose fatty acid ester.
5. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (B) is a sucrose fatty acid ester and a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of greater than 6.
0.
6. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 1.5% by mass.
7. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (C) is 0.05 to 15% by mass.
8. The oil-in-water type according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (D) is 0.1 to 7% by mass. Emulsified cosmetic.
9. Furthermore, (F) an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising an ultraviolet absorber.