Long-lasting skin-perfecting makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerols and fatty acid esters, which may optionally be (poly)hydroxylated, and (iii) pigments and fillers, wherein the total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is at least 12% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetics field, and in particular to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (especially for making up the skin) with a perfecting, long-lasting and transfer-free effect. [Background technology]

[0002] Compositions for the skin and / or lips using film-forming polymers that provide a long-lasting effect of makeup on the skin and / or lips are known from the prior art.

[0003] "Lasting" means that the makeup remains satisfactory at the end of the day. For example, good staying power refers to a foundation that does not require reapplication during the day. Furthermore, there is a need for makeup compositions that have "transfer-free" staying power, i.e. compositions that do not transfer, in particular color, to fabrics that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g., handkerchiefs, masks, clothing, etc.).

[0004] Currently, there is a demand for compositions containing more naturally derived ingredients without compromising the feel and durability of the makeup.

[0005] "Naturally derived ingredients" means ingredients that are naturally occurring but that have been physically transformed or chemically extracted or processed.

[0006] There is also a need for a composition that allows the deposition of a thin film with good matte, perfecting, and long-lasting effects. However, the presence of solid particles (pigments and fillers), especially at high concentrations, can affect the stability of the emulsion. Therefore, there is a need to develop a fluid foundation composition that has improved stability, excellent matte effect, and long-lasting effects.

[0007] Applicant has demonstrated that the use of (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes, each containing 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, and (ii) distinct C12 to C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, results in complexion (or complexion correcting) products that, among other things, have excellent matting and transfer-free long-lasting effects, as well as good sensory properties and perfecting effects upon application. In particular, the compositions according to the present invention are water-in-oil emulsions that exhibit good slip properties upon application, deposit a thin, second-skin-like film, and impart a matte, perfecting (or flawless) finish that is comfortable and very soft. Summary of the Invention

[0008] To this end, according to a first aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is provided, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct straight-chain alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms; (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two separate polyglycerols and fatty acid esters, which may optionally be (poly)hydroxylated; and (iii) Pigments and fillers and the total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, which comprises applying (or applying) to said keratinous materials at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.

[0010] In particular, it is a make-up product for the skin of the face and / or neck, in particular a fluid foundation. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] A first object of the present invention is therefore a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, which comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct straight-chain alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms; (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two separate polyglycerols and fatty acid esters, which may optionally be (poly)hydroxylated; and (iii) Pigments and fillers The total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The water-in-oil emulsions according to the present invention are generally liquid or fluid compositions.

[0013] By "liquid or fluid" is meant a composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), as opposed to compositions that are referred to as solid or semi-solid compositions.

[0014] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of non-volatile oils in the compositions of the invention is less than or equal to 10% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight, and even less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Although non-volatile oils can certainly impart softness and smoothness to the application of the film, they tend to reduce the staying power and non-transfer properties sought here, and therefore, if present in the emulsions of the invention, they are present in small amounts.

[0015] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise less than 5% by total weight of fatty substances, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and pasty compounds, or are free of waxes and pasty compounds.

[0016] By "fatty substances" according to the invention is meant solid compounds or those which contain a solid part (or solid fraction) at 25° C. Mention may in particular be made of butters, waxes, pasty compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0017] A pasty compound is an amorphous fatty compound which at a temperature of 25°C comprises a liquid portion and a solid portion.

[0018] C9-C14 straight chain alkanes The compositions of the present invention comprise at least two separate straight chain alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms.

[0019] The presence of these two separate straight-chain alkanes, each containing 9-14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, adjusts and optimizes the volatility of the composition, ensuring good placement of the composition after the makeup film is applied to the skin, and controls the evaporation of the C9-C14 straight-chain alkane, resulting in the desired long-lasting effect.

[0020] According to certain embodiments, the composition comprises at least two separate straight chain alkanes, each containing 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, selected from the group consisting of nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and tetradecane, mixtures of C9-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C11-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0021] In particular, the following C9 to C14 alkanes and alkane mixtures may be mentioned: C11-C13, for example a mixture of undecane and tridecane, sold under the trade name Cetiol® Ultimate by BASF Care Creations, C9-C12, C10-C12, C12-C14, for example, products sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the trade names VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 alkane) and VEGELIGHT® 1214LC. n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), in particular those sold by Sasol under the trade names PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, respectively; and mixtures thereof.

[0022] According to certain preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes.

[0023] The total content of C9 to C14 alkanes is usually in the range of 15 to 25% by weight, preferably 16 to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] In particular, the content of C9-C12 alkanes ranges from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the content of C11-C13 alkanes ranges from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a total content of C9 to C12 linear alkanes that is greater than the total content of C11 to C13 linear alkanes, and in particular a total content of C9 to C12 linear alkanes in the range of 1 to 3 times the total weight content of C11 to C13 linear alkanes relative to the total weight of C9 to C14 linear alkanes.

[0026] Polyglycerol and fatty acid esters The composition of the present invention further comprises at least two separate polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, which may optionally be (poly)hydroxylated.

[0027] "Fatty acids" in the expressions polyglycerols and fatty acid esters means in particular C6 to C30 fatty acids, in particular C10 to C20 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C20 fatty acids.

[0028] In particular, citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0029] The esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids used in the present invention include, in particular, the following compounds: polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-4 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 decalinolate, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decacasterate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, dicoconut oil. Polyglyceryl-3 fatty acids, polyglyceryl-10 didecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-2 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, distearate Polyglyceryl-2, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate,Polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentolinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-4 pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-10 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-2 tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate, polyglyceryl tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tri ... 10, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol and at least two separate esters (optionally (poly)hydroxylated) of C10 to C20 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Commercially available products that can be used in accordance with the invention include, inter alia, products marketed under the following names: Grant Industries' GRANSURF (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate), BASF DEHYMULS® (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), Stearinerie Dubois DUB ISO (manufactured by), Hostacerin TGI, Dermol TGDIS, Dapracare PG3DI MB, LAMEFORM TGI, IMWITOR PG3 DIS or PGLIS 203KC (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate) Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, Cithrol™ PG3PR, Akoline PGPR™, dermofeel® PGPR, or VERCAREM P3P (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate), MAKIBASE SEB (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate), Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.'s SY-GLYSTER, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S Face CR-1001, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, or SUNSOFT No. 818SK-C (MB) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate), Sakamoto Pharmaceutical's S-FACE, COSMOL 41V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21, PGLIS 102KC, Cithrol™ PG21IS, or Risorex PGIS22 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate), Aroma Zone's OLIVEM (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate), NIKKOMULESE (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate) from NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C (MB) or PGLOL 210KCn (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate), S-Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, or Protachem™ 100 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 oleate), · and mixtures thereof.

[0032] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester of polyglycerol and of a (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid and one ester of polyglycerol and of a non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid.

[0033] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises two separate polyglycerols and fatty acid esters selected from the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (a combination of the two), Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (a combination of these two), Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (a combination of these two), Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and mixtures thereof, Preferred are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate.

[0034] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises esters of polyglycerols with (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids and esters of polyglycerols with non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids, preferably polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate.

[0035] The total content of polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, in the composition of the invention is in particular in the range of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] In particular, the total content of (poly)hydroxylated polyglycerol fatty acid esters is usually in the range of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The total content of polyglycerol esters and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids is usually in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises: (i) a mixture of C9 to C14 linear alkanes, including at least one mixture of C11 to C13 linear alkanes and one mixture of C9 to C12 linear alkanes, the total content of which is 12% by weight or more, preferably in the range of 15% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (ii) an emulsifying system, present in a content of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: · Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, and polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; and · Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; Preferably polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and (iii) Pigments and fillers The total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises: (i) a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes; (ii) Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and (iii) Pigments and fillers The total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; Preferably, the C9 to C12 alkane content is greater than the C11 to C13 alkane content, and the polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate content is greater than the polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate content.

[0040] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises: (i) a mixture of C9-C12 linear alkanes, in particular in a content of 10-20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a mixture of C11-C13 linear alkanes, in particular in a content of 5-10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content of 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, in particular in a content of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iii) Pigments and fillers The total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; Preferably, the C9 to C12 alkane content is greater than the C11 to C13 alkane content, and the polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate content is greater than the polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate content.

[0041] Pigments and Fillers The composition of the present invention further comprises a pigment and a filler.

[0042] Pigments and fillers may or may not be surface treated to facilitate dissolution in the water or oil phase of the emulsion. In particular, pigments are dispersed in the oil phase of the present invention.

[0043] "Pigment" means a white or colored, mineral or organic, particle insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit or application.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), nacres or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] "Mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), which may optionally be surface treated; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide, and ferric blue.

[0046] Examples of "organic pigments" include D&C Red No. 19, D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 13, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 3, D&C Blue No. 1, carbon black, and cochineal carmine lake.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least iron oxide.

[0048] Advantageously, the pigment is surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treating agent to improve dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treating agent is selected in particular from the group consisting of metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, diisostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof.

[0049] In particular, the pigments are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 12% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Filler The compositions of the present invention further comprise one or more fillers to impart a mattifying and perfecting (or flawless) effect to the foundation.

[0051] "Filler" means colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a mattifying effect. Fillers can be mineral or organic and of any shape, such as plate-like, spherical, or rectangular.

[0052] Thus, the fillers according to the invention are in particular chosen from: Cellulose powder, Lauroyl lysine, Boron nitride powder, Silica powder, Starch powder, calcium carbonate, ·clay, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the filler according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of silica powder, cellulose powder and mixtures thereof, in particular silica powder.

[0054] Like the pigments described above, the fillers may or may not be treated to facilitate dispersion in the aqueous or oil phase of the composition.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is dispersed in the oil phase of the composition and is advantageously treated with a lipophilic agent such as those mentioned above for the pigments.

[0056] The total content of fillers according to the invention is in particular in the range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0058] The water content is usually in the range of 25 to 45% by weight, particularly 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (more than 50% by weight miscibility in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, the following can be mentioned: lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol; C2 to C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3 to C5 glycols; C2-C32 polyols, such as glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Also included may be hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent selected from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols, preferably C3-C5, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of which is preferably in the range of 5-25% by weight, in particular 8-20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention advantageously comprise at least a polyol and / or glycol in a total content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect that promotes obtaining a radiant, non-greasy complexion.

[0063] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one or more C3-C5 glycols, the total content of which is preferably in the range of 3-8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Oil phase The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one continuous oil phase.

[0065] By "oil phase" is meant an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.

[0066] "Oil" means a fatty substance that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0067] The oil phase according to the present invention comprises the above-mentioned C9 to C14 straight chain alkane and optionally one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0068] These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0069] According to the present invention, "volatile oil" means an oil that loses at least 20% of its mass in 60 minutes according to the following procedure: The high proportion of volatile phase, especially volatile oil, allows for a light composition that is easy to apply to the skin. The volatile oil is responsible for the formation of a film on the skin during application, and after evaporation, the film adheres to the skin, leaving a bare-skin feel without any substance or masking effect on the skin.

[0070] Method: 20 mg of the oil under study is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and precision balance. The material is spread over the entire plate with a finger. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 33°C and 50% humidity. For each material, the test is performed in triplicate. The mass loss during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

number

[0071] In the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that does not meet the definition of a volatile oil.

[0072] Preferably, the total content of non-volatile oils in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0073] In fact, a low content of non-volatile oil may help maintain the non-transfer benefits achieved by the compositions of the present invention.

[0074] According to another particular embodiment, the oily phase comprises less than 5% by total weight of fatty substances, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and pasty compounds, or is free of waxes and pasty compounds.

[0075] Galenic preparations (GALENIC) The composition is preferably intended to be applied (wiped) to the skin, in particular to the skin of the face and / or neck, and is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0076] In certain embodiments, the composition is in the form of a facial liquid (or lotion), a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher, or a concealer. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

[0077] In particular, the composition may be a mattifying fluid foundation (also known as "matt") that provides high coverage but with a natural makeup effect and perfecting and long-lasting effect.

[0078] "Perfecting effect" means that the complexion is evened out and the natural glow is restored. Imperfections are corrected.

[0079] "Long-lasting effect" means that the makeup is still there and satisfactory at the end of the day, and typically does not require reapplication during the day.

[0080] By "long-lasting, transfer-free effect" is meant that the composition, especially the color, does not transfer to fabrics (e.g., handkerchiefs, masks, clothing, etc.) that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin.

[0081] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises: (i) at least two different linear alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of C9-C12 linear alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 linear alkanes, preferably in a total content ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) an emulsifying system, in particular polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, preferably in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (iii) mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides (preferably surface-treated with an oleophilic agent), in particular in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular silica particles, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The fluid foundation contains a C9 to C14 linear alkane in an amount of 12% by weight or more, and preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The compositions of the present invention may also include any additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, antioxidants, gelling agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, fragrances, cosmetic active agents (e.g., emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, whitening agents, etc.), and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0084] The lipophilic gelling agents include in particular mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably quaternary hectorites, etc. Preferably, the bentones are dispersed in C9 to C14 linear alkanes, in particular C9 to C12.

[0085] Makeup method The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising applying (or spreading) on ​​the skin at least one layer of the cosmetic composition as defined above in the present invention.

[0086] In particular, the cosmetic method according to the invention makes it possible to deposit on the skin a thin, second-skin-like film with a good mattifying and complexion-perfecting effect, which is comfortable and very soft, has good staying power and is transfer-free.

[0087] The embodiments of the composition according to the present invention that can be used in the cosmetic method according to the present invention are as described above.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the composition applied comprises: (i) at least two different linear alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of C9-C12 linear alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 linear alkanes, preferably in a total content ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) an emulsifying system, in particular polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, preferably in a total content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (iii) mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides (preferably surface-treated with an oleophilic agent), in particular in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular silica particles, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. [Example]

[0090] Example 1: Effect of polyglycerol and fatty acid esters on emulsion stability The Applicant encountered stability problems when formulating emulsions according to the invention which contain at least two separate linear alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in an amount of at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and which contain pigments and fillers (solid particles), especially in high contents (15 to 25% of the total weight of the composition).

[0091] Emulsion stability problems have been observed in: High temperature oven cure and room temperature cure (rheo-fluidifying texture) foamy texture, and / or · Poor adhesion to the wall (especially at high temperatures).

[0092] To improve the emulsion stability, various approaches were investigated, including in particular acting on the emulsification method (rotation speed 800-1200 rpm), changing the nature and content of the dispersant, or changing the nature and content of the emulsifier. Emulsifiers with similar HLB were used, which gave the product better sensory properties.

[0093] The dispersant approach showed no improvement, and as for the emulsification method, although rotation at 1000 rpm helps with emulsion stability, it is the emulsifier approach that showed the greatest improvement in stability, as shown below.

[0094] Several tests have been carried out and in the examples below the effect of combining two separate polyglycerols and fatty acid esters is compared to the effect of the same content of a single polyglycerol and fatty acid ester.

[0095] [Table 1]

[0096] The composition is prepared according to the following procedure. 1) Mix the pigment, a portion of the oil, and the pigment dispersant and pass through a three-roll mill at room temperature to obtain a pigment paste. 2) Prepare the aqueous phase (water, glycol) and homogenize it under a Rayneri or agitator. 3) Prepare the oil phase and homogenize under high shear, then add the pigment paste from step 1 to the remaining oil phase and finally homogenize everything under high shear. 4) Add the powder (filler), then the silicone resin pre-dispersed in a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, under a Raineri pressure, to the mixture of oil and pigment phases from step 3, and homogenize everything. 5) The water phase is then added under Raineri. 6) The aqueous phase is then gradually poured into the oily phase under a Raineri, the stirring gradually increased to emulsify the two phases at room temperature, and the mixture is kept under stirring for about 15 minutes.

[0097] The stability of the compositions is evaluated according to the following criteria: · 1 week alternating (-10°C and +40°C in 12-hour cycles) and 50°C, and · 2 weeks alternating (-10°C and +40°C in 12 hour cycles) and 50°C.

[0098] A composition is said to be "stable" if it is stable under the above conditions.

[0099] The results show that the composition of the present invention containing 2% polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and 1% polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate has suitable stability under the test conditions, while the comparative composition containing only 3% polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate has poor stability after one week (uneven and incompatible appearance, poor adhesion to the wall, etc.) These results demonstrate that the emulsion according to the present invention can be stabilized by combining two separate polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, in particular an ester of polyglycerol and a (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid with an ester of polyglycerol and a non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acid.

[0100] Example 2: Evaluation of the cosmetic properties of emulsions The following fluid foundation was prepared according to the procedure described in Example 1.

[0101] [Table 2]

[0102] When applied to facial skin, the fluid foundation forms a thin film with an excellent matte finish and excellent matte hold for up to 24 hours. Advantageously, the fluid foundation provides good hydration to the skin (better hydration than skin without the composition), imparts luminosity and luster to the skin, and is resistant to pressure and friction, and does not transfer makeup.

[0103] After applying this perfecting, transfer-free, fluid foundation, skin appears smoother and more hydrated, the complexion more even and brighter, and the skin is overall beautifully flattered.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, liquid or fluid, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two separate straight-chain alkanes, each containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms; (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two separate polyglycerols and fatty acid esters, which may optionally be (poly)hydroxylated; and (iii) Pigments and Fillers and the total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the C9 to C14 linear alkane is selected from nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, mixtures of C9 to C13 alkanes, mixtures of C9 to C12 alkanes, mixtures of C10 to C12 alkanes, mixtures of C11 to C13 alkanes, mixtures of C12 to C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

3. 3. The composition of claim 2, comprising a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes ranges from 15 to 25% by weight, preferably from 16 to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of C9 to C12 linear alkanes is greater than the total content of C11 to C13 linear alkanes, and in particular, the total content of C9 to C12 linear alkanes is in the range of 1 to 3 times the total weight content of C11 to C13 linear alkanes relative to the total weight of C9 to C14 linear alkanes.

6. Polyglycerols and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, include polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and mixtures thereof are selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a (poly)hydroxylated ester of polyglycerol and of a fatty acid and a non-(poly)hydroxylated ester of polyglycerol and of a fatty acid.

8. Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and mixtures thereof, Preferably polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising two separate polyglycerol and fatty acid esters selected from the group consisting of:

9. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerol and fatty acid ester, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, is in the range of 1 to 8% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. (i) a mixture of C9 to C12 linear alkanes, in particular in a content of 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a mixture of C11 to C13 linear alkanes, in particular in a content of 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content of 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, in particular in a content of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iii) Pigments and Fillers Including, The total content of C9 to C14 linear alkanes is 12% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition; 10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the C9-C12 alkane content is greater than the C11-C13 alkane content and the polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate content is greater than the polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate content.

11. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the total content of pigments and fillers is in the range of 12 to 30% by weight, in particular 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, a finisher or a concealer.

13. A cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising applying to said keratinous materials at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

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