Solid matte composition containing specific non-polar hydrocarbon oils and organophilic clays and method of using same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid matte cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, intended to be applied to the skin and / or lips, comprising: at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C 14 ~C 19 The present invention relates to a solid matte cosmetic composition comprising: a hydrocarbon oil; at least one inorganic or organic filler, including at least one filler of lipophilic clay type containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, said lipophilic clay type filler being present in an amount of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one second oil selected from polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or non-volatile silicone oils, different from the first oil; and at least one silicone elastomer held in at least one oil, which may be the same as or different from the first or second oil. The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, which method consists in applying the composition.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, more particularly the lips, the deposit of which has a matte appearance, comprising at least 5% by weight of a specific non-polar hydrocarbon oil and a lipophilic clay containing at least one quaternary ammonium group as a filler, and to a method of using said composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Compositions intended to be applied to lips and imparting a matte finish after application are well known in the cosmetic field, and are often characterized by a high content of volatile oils and / or fillers. A high content of volatile oils allows the content of solid particles, such as fillers and pigments, to be further increased in the deposit after the composition is applied and dried. Regarding the fillers used in compositions that provide a matte finish, organic particles, particularly polymer particles such as nylon, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyethylene, silicone resins or elastomers, or mineral particles such as kaolin or silica, are often found. These fillers, among other things, allow partial absorption of residual oily compounds, whether they originate from the composition or the carrier (sebum) to which it is applied. Due to the high content of volatile oils and solid particles in compositions with a matte appearance, the content of non-volatile oils is consequently significantly reduced in the deposit after the composition is applied and dried. For this reason, matte compositions are generally considered by users to be less or not at all comfortable once applied, and also cause a dry feeling on the lips. Furthermore, in recent years, a new trend has become prominent among consumers, and consumers are less and less solely focused on the performance quality of cosmetic compositions, although they still pay attention to some extent, even if everything else is aside.In fact, there has been increasing attention to the components used in cosmetic compositions, especially the presence of microplastics.In fact, as previously indicated, achieving a matte effect often relies on the presence of a high content of fillers, more specifically organic fillers, especially polymer fillers.Since such fillers are considered to be microplastics, it is desirable to limit or even avoid their use in compositions with a matte finish.On the other hand, replacing organic fillers with inorganic fillers such as clay or silica is also not a completely acceptable solution, since these fillers further increase the dry feeling of the deposit when applied.They may also impair the ease of application of the composition and may result in application with significantly more resistance. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0003] Therefore, there remains a need for solid compositions with a matte finish that are easy to apply, more comfortable to wear, and have a limited drying effect on the lips. It is also desirable to be able to have available compositions that allow for the elimination of the presence of, or the reduction of, microplastics, without compromising effectiveness, particularly in terms of matte finish. [Means for solving the problem]

[0004] These and other objects can be achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is a cosmetic composition comprising: * at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C 14 ~C 19 hydrocarbon oils, at least one inorganic or organic filler, including at least one filler of organophilic clay type containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, said organophilic clay type filler being present in an amount ranging from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one second non-volatile oil selected from polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or non-volatile silicone oils different from the first oil; At least one silicone elastomer held in at least one oil, which may be the same as or different from the first or second oil.

[0005] A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic and / or care method in which a composition as defined above is applied to human keratinous materials, and in particular to the lips.

[0006] The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable solid composition, more particularly a composition in stick form, which is easily applied to the lips as a precise, uniform, matte, non-transferring deposit.The deposit obtained also has improved comfort, especially in that it causes less drying of the lips.In addition, the deposit shows good color fastness over time (which can range up to 10 hours).

[0007] These and other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from a reading of the following description and examples.

[0008] It should be noted that in the remainder of this specification, unless otherwise specified, the limits given for ranges are included within the ranges.

[0009] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are used interchangeably.

[0010] Additionally, the sum of the amounts of the components of the composition equals 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] Hardness measurement procedure The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following procedure:

[0012] The lipsticks are stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0013] Hardness is measured at 20°C by the "cheese wire" method, which consists in cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical, transversely with a rigid tungsten wire of 0.25 mm diameter by moving the wire across the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The measurement is carried out at a distance of at least 10 mm from the sample holder.

[0014] The hardness of the sample, expressed in grams, is measured, for example, by means of a static brittleness tester (ruptometer—Rematique Electronique Industrielle).

[0015] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The hardness is the average of the three values ​​read by the device described above.

[0016] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness of 80 to 200 g, more particularly 100 to 190 g, preferably 120 to 170 g at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure.

[0017] Gloss measurement procedure The gloss of a composition is measured according to the following procedure:

[0018] After heating to 95-98°C, the lipstick is spread onto a contrast chart (reference byko-chart, unvarnished finish N2C) with a black and white background and a thickness of 500 μm, measuring 194 x 260 mm (7.6 x 10.25 inches) using an automatic spreader (reference byko-drive, model: DOA-P504-BN) whose cylinder has been preheated to 50°C by a heating plate.

[0019] The gloss is measured at 85° using a glossmeter (reference micro-tri-gloss, BYK).

[0020] The gloss value is obtained by averaging three measurements taken at three different points on the contrast chart.

[0021] For purposes of the present invention, a composition is considered to be matte if it has a gloss value of less than 70, preferably less than 30.

[0022] First Oil As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C14 ~C 19 Contains hydrocarbon oils.

[0023] For purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon oil" means a hydrocarbon oil composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0024] Furthermore, for purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" refers to oil that is insoluble in water and has a viscosity of 1.013×10° C. at 20° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 This indicates a compound that is liquid at 1000kJ / cm² (Pa).

[0025] More particularly, the first oil is chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following oils (INCI names): tetradecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, octadecane, C15-19 alkanes, and even more preferably the oil is isohexadecane.

[0026] These oils are available under the tradenames Arlamol HD from Croda; Permethyl 101A from Presperse Corp; Isohexadecane from INEOS; Parafol 14, Parafol 16-97, Parafol 18-97 from Sasol GmbH; Gemseal 40 from Total; Emogreen L15, Emogreen L19 from SEPPIC, among others.

[0027] The composition according to the invention also contains at least 5% by weight, more particularly at least 10% by weight, of the first oil relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 15 to 20% by weight, of the first oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] Non-volatile second oil The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one second polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil or non-volatile silicone oil different from the first oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to oils that are volatile at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 The term "vapor pressure" refers to compounds that are liquid at 20°C (at 20°C) and whose vapor pressure at 20°C is not zero but is less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured either by the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0030] "Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that is essentially formed from carbon and hydrogen atoms, or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also contains at least one oxygen atom, and optionally a nitrogen atom. Therefore, these oils are different from silicone oils. They may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0031] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0032] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the content of the second non-volatile oil is in the range of 10 to 35% by weight, preferably in the range of 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil For purposes of the present invention, a polar hydrocarbon oil contains, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably contains at least one oxygen atom.

[0034] Among the polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made more particularly of oils chosen from: -C 10 ~C 26 alcohol, preferably monoalcohol; - ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which the radicals R and R' may be identical or different and are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon radicals containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 represents the group); - non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils containing one or more ester functional groups and containing at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms of which preferably is at least 12; - A mixture of them.

[0035] C10-C26 alcohols The alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They contain a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydric alcohols.

[0036] Preferably, the alcohol is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0037] Non-volatile ether or carbonate oil Among the suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which the radicals R and R' may be identical or different and are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon radicals containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably C3-C 16 A group (representing a substituted or unsubstituted group) may be mentioned.

[0038] Preferably, the oil may be chosen from: - Dicaprylyl ether, - Dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and C 14 ~C 15 Dialkyl carbonate.

[0039] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with ester functional groups The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may also more particularly comprise at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon compounds containing one or more ester functional groups and containing at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms being preferably at least 12. In addition, the ester oil may optionally contain one or more ether or hydroxyl functional groups.

[0040] Among suitable ester oils, mention may be made of monoesters and diesters, optionally containing one or two ether groups; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters, optionally containing one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols; esters and polyesters of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids with dimeric diols or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] More specifically, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic monoesters or diesters containing 12 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally containing one or two ether groups. Among these compounds, mention may be made of monoesters or diesters obtained from, on the one hand, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, in particular containing 4 to 28, preferably 4 to 24, carbon atoms, optionally containing at least one free hydroxyl, and, on the other hand, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols or polyols containing 2 to 26, in particular 3 to 24, carbon atoms and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the esters may optionally contain one or two ether groups and, optionally, one or two hydroxyl groups.

[0042] Examples include 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, Isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, capric acid, caprylic acid, and palm-derived alcohol (C 12 ~C 18 hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.

[0043] Mention may also be made of optionally hydroxylated esters of C2-C8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids with C2-C8 alcohols. Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are optionally hydroxylated monoesters of C2-C8 carboxylic acids with C2-C8 alcohols and optionally hydroxylated diesters of C2-C8 dicarboxylic acids with C2-C8 alcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

[0044] Mention may also be made of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic esters of saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, especially monocarboxylic acids containing 4 to 28 carbon atoms, with diols, especially glycols, especially C2 to C5 glycols, glycerol, or polyglycerols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] * Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic triesters containing up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing 1 to 3 ether groups. Suitable for the present invention are optionally hydroxylated linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic C2-C triesters. 40 , preferably C4 to C 40 Monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and C2-C 40 , preferably C3 to C 40 Polyesters are esters obtained from polyols or monoalcohols, optionally containing at least one free hydroxyl.

[0046] For example, triacetin and also saturated or unsaturated C4-C 36 Fatty acids, more specifically saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain C-C 20 Triglycerides of fatty acids, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, can be used; in particular saturated triglycerides, such as glyceryl caprylate / caprate, for example the products sold by Stearinerie Dubois in the DUB MCT range, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C 18~36Mention may be made of triglycerides of acids such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearinerie Dubois, or glyceryl triisostearate.

[0047] Mention may also be made of triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).

[0048] As an example, a C2-C9 acid containing three carboxyl functional groups, which are optionally hydroxylated, and a C2-C 20 Mention may also be made of oils containing three ester functions with monoalcohols, optionally hydroxylated or acetylated. Citric acid esters, such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] *Tetraesters, especially those containing 35 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally containing 1 to 3 ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol with monocarboxylic acids, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, or pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate).

[0050] *Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols, in particular, for example, by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol, such as those described in French patent application No. 0 853 634. In this regard, mention may in particular be made of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols with diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, whose INCI name is Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer.

[0051] * Esters of dimer diols or polyols with monocarboxylic acids and / or dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of dimer diols with fatty acids and esters of dimer diols with dicarboxylic acid dimers, particularly C8-C 34 , especially C 12 ~C 22 , especially C 16 ~C 20 , more specifically C 18 Mention may be made of esters obtainable from dicarboxylic acid dimers resulting from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, such as the ester of dilinoleyl diacid and dimer dilinoleyl diol, which has the INCI name: dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, such as those sold under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and DD-DA7 (registered trademark) by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0052] Also suitable are esters resulting from the esterification of a polyol with at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 7,317,068. The polyol more particularly contains 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid contains 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, or a combination thereof. As for the linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic dicarboxylic acid, it more particularly contains 4 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably adipic acid. Mention may be made, by way of example, of pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate, sold in particular under the name Crodamol L by Croda, and pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate, sold in particular under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO-MB by Inolex.

[0053] *For example, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, prakash oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passion flower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, and marrow oil. vegetable oils such as laurel oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, foxtail millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the oil is selected from castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam seed oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from: - Vegetable oils, especially those listed immediately above; - optionally hydroxylated ester oils containing 1 to 4 ester functional groups, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic and contains at least 12 carbon atoms; - A mixture of them.

[0056] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0057] More particularly, when the composition comprises a polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, its content ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises it in an amount of from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" is intended to mean an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0059] More particularly, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil different from the first oil or oils described above may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as, for example: - liquid paraffin, - Squalane, especially of plant origin, - Isoeicosan, mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly mixtures whose INCI names are, for example: C18-21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, such as the products Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, such as the products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by NOF Corporation; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, such as the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos and Dekanex by IMCD; - and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0061] More specifically, when the composition contains a non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, its content ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, and even more specifically from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Non-volatile silicone oil As regards the non-volatile silicone oil, the latter may be a non-phenylsilicone oil or a phenylsilicone oil, optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0063] The term "phenyl(ized)" defines that the oil contains at least one phenyl group within its structure.

[0064] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom bears two methyl groups, which group is not located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0065] Preferably, the silicone does not contain C2-C3 alkylene oxide groups or glycerolated groups.

[0066] Among non-volatile non-phenyl silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone), at least one C2-C 24 Mention may be made of alkyl dimethicones containing alkyl groups, such as cetyl dimethicone, and also their mixtures.These oils are sold in particular by Dow Chemical under the name DOWSIL 2502 CosmetiCFluid; by Evonik under the name Abil Wax 9801. Among polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), mention may be made of the Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid range of products sold by Dow Chemical Company; the Belsil DM range of products sold by Wacker; and the Mirasil DM range of products sold by Elkem Silicones.

[0067] Among the non-volatile phenylsilicone oils containing at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of compounds with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Such oils are sold, in particular, under the names Belsil PDM by Wacker, Mirasil P-DPDM by Elkem Silicones, KF-53, KF 54 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Silshine 150 Fluid by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0068] As regards non-volatile phenylsilicone oils free from dimethicone fragments, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of compounds with the following INCI names: phenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane. These products are sold in particular by The Dow Chemical Company under the name DOWSIL 556 CosmetiC Grade Fluid, by Elkem Silicones under the name Mirasil PTM, by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jessil CPTMF, and by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SF 1550 Fluid.

[0069] More specifically, the content of the non-volatile silicone oil is in the range of 1 to 35% by mass, preferably 1 to 30% by mass, and preferably 10 to 25% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0070] Additional volatile oils The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oil or silicone oil described above.

[0071] The term "volatile oil" means an oil that has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and in particular at atmospheric pressure in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular in the range up to 13000 Pa, more in particular in the range up to 1300 Pa.

[0072] Silicone oil An example of a volatile silicone oil is a silicone oil having a viscosity of 5 cSt (specifically, 5 x 10 measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard). -3 mm 2 Particular mention may be made of dimethicone (less than 1 / s), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Volatile hydrocarbon oils Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, which are preferably non-polar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to less than 14 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular: branched alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), for example isododecane or isodecane, and oils sold, for example, under the trade name Isopar by ExxonMobil; - linear alkanes, preferably such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the trade designation Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol under the trade designation Parafol 12-97, undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008 / 155059 filed by Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] More particularly, when the composition comprises a volatile additional oil, its content is at most 25% by weight, preferably at most 10% by weight, even more preferentially at most 5% by weight and even more particularly at most 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Filler As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler comprising at least one organophilic clay containing at least one ammonium group, in an amount of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The filler, different from the organophilic clays mentioned above, is selected from inorganic fillers, organic fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0077] The term "filler" refers to particles of organic or inorganic nature that are colorless or white, solid, of any shape, and insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and that are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

[0078] lipophilic clay The term "oleophilic clay" is understood to mean any clay that is oil-soluble or oil-dispersible in the oily phase.

[0079] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a layered structure.

[0080] The clays may be natural or synthetic and may optionally contain aromatic groups, e.g., C 10 ~C 22 They are made lipophilic by treatment with alkylammonium salts, such as ammonium halides, such as ammonium chloride, and in particular halides such as stearalkonium, benzalkonium or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, e.g., distearyldimethylammonium.

[0081] The clays may be selected from bentonite, hectorite and montmorillonite, beidellite, saponite, nontronite, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite and zeolites. Preferably, the clays are selected from hectorite and bentonite.

[0082] Lipophilic hectorites suitable for implementing the present invention may be selected from modified hectorites with the following INCI names: disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 hectorite, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises disteardimonium hectorite.

[0083] Lipophilic bentonites suitable for carrying out the present invention can be chosen from bentonites with the following INCI names: Quaternium-18 bentonite, Stearalkonium bentonite, Quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite, alone or as a mixture.

[0084] Preferably, the lipophilic clay containing at least one quaternary ammonium group is in the form of powder. More specifically, it is not used in activated form. Therefore, the lipophilic clay containing at least one quaternary ammonium group used to prepare the composition according to the present invention is not in the form of a pre-dispersion, particularly in the form of a gel, in a solvent selected from, for example, C1-C2 alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, etc.; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Among the modified hectorites that can be used in connection with the present invention, mention may be made of: *In Disteardimonium Hectorite: Bentone 38V CG; *In stearalkonium hectorite: Bentone 27V; sold by Elementis Specialties.

[0086] Among the modified bentonites that can be used in connection with the present invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of the following: *Among the Quaternium-18 bentonites: Bentone 34 sold by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP sold by BYK Additives Inc; *Stearalkonium bentonites include Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, and Claytone APA, sold by BYK Additives Inc; *Among the Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonites: Claytone HT sold by BYK Additives Inc.

[0087] According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay-type filler containing at least one quaternary ammonium group is chosen from lipophilic hectorites containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, in particular disteardimonium hectorite.

[0088] As indicated above, the content of the organophilic clay containing at least one quaternary ammonium group ranges from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Fillers different from organophilic clays According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises inorganic and / or organic fillers in a content ranging from 1 to 12% by weight, and preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] inorganic fillers The term "inorganic filler" is understood to mean any compound whose chemical structure does not contain carbon atoms, regardless of the presence of a coating of said filler.

[0091] The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the pigments described below.

[0092] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be particles of lamellar, spherical or spherical form, of fibre form or of any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, i.e. in particular comprise at least a rounded overall part defining at least a spherical part, preferably defining an internal concave surface or depression (sphere, globule, bowl-shaped, U-shaped, etc.), or may be lamellar.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the filler has, more particularly, an average particle size (expressed as volume mean diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 μm, preferably at least 2 μm, advantageously between 2 and 15 μm. The size of the particles can be measured by laser diffraction using commercially available particle size analyzers such as the Mastersizer 3000 from Malvern (see also the ISO 13320 standard).

[0094] The fillers used in the compositions of the present invention may or may not be surface-coated. In particular, they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, especially silanes; fluorinated derivatives, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, and mixtures thereof. N-acylamino acids may contain acyl groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Amino acids may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term "alkyl" in the above-mentioned compounds particularly refers to alkyl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0095] Such fillers are advantageously chosen from: silica, preferably in the form of spherical particles (INCI name: Silica), such as the porous silica microspheres sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the name Silica Beads SB-700; "Sunsphere H51" and "Sunsphere H33" manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. under the names "SA Sunsphere H 33" and "SA Sunsphere H 53"; hollow silica microspheres; perlite, for example that sold under the trade names Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, OpTiMat® 1430 OR or 2550 OR by World Minerals, or that sold under the trade names Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by Imerys; zeolites, such as the products sold by Zeochem under the names ZeoFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-Mol and X-Mol MT; calcium magnesium carbonate particles, such as those sold by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat or by Omya under the name Omyacare 60-AV. Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate and hydroxyapatite are also suitable; - kaolin or talc particles, such as those sold under the Imercare and Imercare Pharma ranges; those sold under LuzenaCPharma by Imerys; those sold under Rose Talc by Nippon Talc Co., Ltd.; natural or synthetic mica, such as the product with the INCI name Synthetic Fluorphlogopite sold by Merck under the name RonaFlair Silk Mica, by Presperse under the name Sericite PHN, by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the name NHS-100 and NHS-150, or by Topy under the name PDM-NSO or FNK-100; boron nitride; composite materials of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.; bismuth oxychloride; - glass or ceramic microcapsules; for example borosilicate particles; - A mixture of them.

[0096] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as inorganic fillers, kaolin, mica and optionally silica and also mixtures thereof.

[0097] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of inorganic filler represents a range of from 1 to 12% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] organic fillers For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic filler" is understood to mean solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon, silicone-based compound, or combinations thereof, regardless of their coating.

[0099] Fillers in particulate form may or may not be surface treated with compounds such as those described above for inorganic fillers.

[0100] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical or spherical form, in the form of fibers, or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. They may be spherical, i.e., comprise at least a rounded overall portion defining at least a spherical portion, preferably defining an internal concave surface or depression (sphere, globule, bowl-shaped, U-shaped, etc.), or lamellar.

[0101] Among suitable fillers, mention may be made of: - natural or synthetic micronized waxes; - metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; natural organic materials, such as polysaccharide powders, in particular starch powders, in particular crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo® by National Starch, or waxy corn starch powders, such as those sold under the name C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, under the name Maize Starch B by Rockete and under the name Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products, cellulose, in particular in the form of spherical particles, such as products of the Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF type sold by Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.; - N-(C8~C 22 (acylated) amino acids; the amino acids may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine; mention may be made, for example, of lauroyl lysine, sold in particular under the name Amihope LL by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. or under the name Corum 5105 by Corum; - particles of acrylic (co)polymers and their derivatives, in particular: *Particles of polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name: methyl methacrylate crosspolymer) sold under the name Covabead LH85 by Sensient, or under the name Sepimat P by SEPPIC, and under the name Microsphere 100® by Matsumoto Yushi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.; *Particles of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (INCI name: Methyl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer) sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber; *Particles of cross-linked acrylate (INCI name: Acrylates Crosspolymer), sold, for example, by Ganz Chemical under the name Ganzpearl GMP-0820; *Polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate particles sold under the name Poly-Pore L200 or Poly-Pore E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; -particles of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: lauryl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer) sold under the name Polytrap 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; *Crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by Sekisui Plastics Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer); * Ethylene / acrylate copolymers, such as those sold under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd. particles of acrylonitrile (co)polymers, in particular expanded hollow particles sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel or microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto Yushi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.; polyurethane particles, such as those manufactured by Toshoku Pigment Co., Ltd. under the names D-400, D-800 (INCI name: HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer (and) silica), CS-400 (INCI name: HDI / PPG / polycaprolactone crosspolymer (and) silica); silicone polymer particles advantageously chosen from: * Silicone resin particles, for example those with the INCI name Polymethylsilsesquioxane, in particular those sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145; *Silicone elastomer particles coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, such as the products sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 (INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer) or KSP-300 (INCI name: diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane crosspolymer); *Silicone elastomer particles, for example the product sold by Dow Corning under the name Dowsil 9506 CosmetiCPowder (INCI name: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer); *For example, methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer particles in the form of pots, in particular those sold by Takemoto Oil & Fat Co., Ltd. under the name TAK-110; - polyamide particles, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12, Nylon 6 / 12; nylon powders such as those sold by Arkema under the names Orgasol 2002 EXS NAT COS, Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse; - Particles of tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®).

[0102] Preferably, when the composition contains an organic filler, it is an N-(C8-C10)-C20-C30-C40-C60-C10 copolymer, such as cellulose particles, lauroyl lysine, etc. 22 The particles may be selected from particles of amino acids (acylated), and also mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially cellulose particles.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of organic filler represents 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition may not contain polymeric organic fillers that are considered to be microplastics. For the purposes of the present invention, it will be recalled that the term "microplastics" refers to stable, solid particles of polymers of synthetic or chemically modified natural origin that are insoluble in water (i.e., less than 2 g / l; OECD Directive 105), have a size of less than 5 mm (less than 15 mm for fibers), and contain carbon atoms in the polymer chain (main chain). The term "stable form" refers to particles that remain solid in the composition and after its use. For example, polymer particles that form a film in the composition or when the composition is used are not considered to be in a stable form. Therefore, preferably, the composition according to the present invention may not contain particles of acrylic polymers or copolymers, acrylonitrile, polyurethane, polyamide, tetrafluoroethylene polymers, or silicone polymers, as described above. However, if the composition does contain any of them, their content will preferably be less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, when the composition comprises them, the content of said organic fillers of microplastic type is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously the composition is free of them.

[0105] Preferably, the composition may contain at least one inorganic filler selected from kaolin, mica, and optionally silica, and mixtures thereof. The composition may contain at least one organic filler, in particular N-(C8-C10)-C20 fillers such as cellulose, lauroyl lysine, etc. 22 The organic filler may also comprise cellulose, acylated (amino acids), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the organic filler is selected from cellulose.

[0106] The total content of fillers (thus taking into account the above-mentioned organophilic clay containing at least one quaternary ammonium group) advantageously represents from 1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 15% by weight and even more particularly from 7 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Silicone elastomer The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silicone elastomer carried in at least one oil which may be the same as or different from the first or second oil.

[0108] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "held" is understood to mean that the silicone elastomer is introduced into the composition in the form of a pre-dispersed mixture in at least one oil. More specifically, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in said oil, which is stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, the elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least the first oil. In particular, a powder of silicone elastomer suspended in at least such oil is not considered, for the purposes of the present invention, to be an organopolysiloxane elastomer held in at least one oil.

[0109] The terms "silicone elastomer," "silicone elastomer," and "polyorganosiloxane elastomer" are understood to mean flexible, deformable crosslinked organopolysiloxanes having viscoelastic properties, in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. The modulus of elasticity is such that the material resists deformation and has limited stretching and contraction. The material can regain its original shape after being stretched.

[0110] In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles can be spherical or non-spherical.

[0111] The silicone elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

[0112] The term "non-emulsifying" defines a silicone elastomer that does not contain hydrophilic chains, in particular does not contain polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units.

[0113] Thus, silicone elastomers can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst, between a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a diorganopolysiloxane containing silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups or hydrocarbon chains having ethylenically unsaturated groups at both ends; or a dehydration crosslinking condensation reaction, particularly in the presence of an organotin, between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen; or a crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes, particularly in the presence of an organic peroxide catalyst; or crosslinking of organopolysiloxanes by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, or electron beams.

[0114] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms, each bonded to silicon, with (B) a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patent application EP-A-295886.

[0115] In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomers are obtained by the reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane having dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups with a methylhydrogenopolysiloxane having trimethylsiloxy end groups in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0116] Compound (A) is the basic reactant for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomers, and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0117] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane in which in each molecule at least two hydrogen atoms are bonded to different silicon atoms.

[0118] Compound (A) can have any molecular structure, in particular a linear or branched chain structure, or a cyclic structure.

[0119] Compound (A) can have a viscosity in the range of 1 to 50,000 centistokes at 25° C., in particular so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).

[0120] The organic group bonded to the silicon atom of compound (A) may be an alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; a substituted alkyl group such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl; and a substituted monovalent hydrocarbon group such as an epoxy group, a carboxylic acid ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0121] Thus, compound (A) may be selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers or cyclic dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.

[0122] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (e.g., C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl groups may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the terminals of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched, linear, cyclic, or network structure, with a linear structure being preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a rubber-like state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0123] In addition to the alkenyl groups described above, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as epoxy groups, carboxylic acid ester groups, or mercapto groups.

[0124] The organopolysiloxane (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxane, methylvinylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymer, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymer.

[0125] In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane with a trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0126] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylene groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0127] Advantageously, compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molar ratio of the total number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) to the total number of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0128] Compound (C) is a catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a carrier.

[0129] The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by mass, and more preferably 1 to 100 parts by mass, of clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by mass of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0130] Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242219, EP 295886, EP 765656 and JP 61-194009 A.

[0131] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from compounds having the following INCI names: dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone / vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer 3, preferably from dimethicone crosspolymer.

[0132] As mentioned above, the elastomer present in the composition according to the present invention is in a form held in an oil which may be the same as or different from the first and second oils and further additional oils mentioned above, and reference may be made to the description thereof.

[0133] Thus, the oil is chosen from silicone oils and polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0134] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the oil is chosen from linear or cyclic, preferably linear, volatile silicone oils.

[0135] According to a second embodiment, the oil is chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, in particular having the INCI names: dimethicone, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone, preferably linear silicone oils, in particular chosen from those of the dimethicone type, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 5 to 500 cSt at 25°C.

[0136] According to a last particular embodiment of the invention, the oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as isododecane, or polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as esters and vegetable oils, such as triethylhexanoin.

[0137] As non-emulsifying elastomers, more particularly, by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-016F, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-102, USG-103, USG-105, USG-106 and USG-107A; by Dow Chemical Company under the names Dowsil DC9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil DC9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9350 Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9241 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9140 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend Blend; or that sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SFE 839 Gel may be used.

[0138] The content of silicone elastomer, expressed as active substance, ranges from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 4.5% by weight and very advantageously from 3 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] wax The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one wax.

[0140] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point above 30°C, and may even be up to 120°C.

[0141] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments, equipped with TA Universal Analysis software.

[0142] The measurement procedure is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then it is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0143] During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the solid fatty material is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the highest observed endothermic peak of the melting curve and represents the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0144] The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (ΔHf), which corresponds to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained, can also be measured. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0145] The waxes may be silicone waxes and, preferably, hydrocarbon waxes, and may also be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0146] In particular, the wax preferably has a melting point greater than or equal to 35°C, and even better still greater than or equal to 40°C.

[0147] Non-polar wax For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax that is composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and does not contain heteroatoms such as N, O, Si, P, etc.

[0148] Examples of non-polar waxes that are suitable for use in the present invention may include, inter alia, hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or synthetic waxes) and microwaxes, especially polyethylene microwaxes.

[0149] Polar Hydrocarbon Wax The polar wax may in particular be a hydrocarbon wax.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed or even composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and more particularly a wax that contains at least one heteroatom selected from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof, and which may therefore contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0151] Waxes selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes are preferred as polar hydrocarbon waxes.

[0152] According to the present invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax containing at least one ester functional group. The ester wax may also be hydroxylated.

[0153] According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax containing at least one alcohol functional group, ie containing at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0154] In particular, the following may be used as ester waxes, either alone or in mixtures:

[0155] i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 (wherein R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain), the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, and which may contain heteroatoms such as O or N, and whose melting point is more particularly in the range from 30°C to 120°C. In particular, as ester waxes, waxes such as C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (wherein the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), either alone or in mixtures, or C 20 ~C 40 Alkyl stearates may be used. Such waxes are sold, inter alia, by Koster Keunen under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® or Kester Wax K82H. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof may also be used;

[0156] ii) bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate;

[0157] iii) Dicarboxylic acid diester waxes of the following general formula:

[0158] R 3 -(-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 )(wherein, R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and C4 to C 30 represents an alkyl group, and R 4 is a straight or branched chain C4-C olefin which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations 30 It preferably represents an aliphatic group. 30 The aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated;

[0159] iv) especially straight or branched chain C8-C 32 Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing fatty chains, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, e.g., Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those sold by Sophim in the Phytowax Olive range, e.g., Phytowax Olive 18L57. Such waxes are described, inter alia, in patent application FR 2 792 190;

[0160] v) saturated, optionally hydroxylated C 16 ~C 30Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, preferably total esters. The term "total esters" means that all hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), either alone or in mixtures. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, sold by Elementis Specialties.

[0161] vi) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin may also be mentioned, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esculenta wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, wood wax, hazel wax, montan wax, orange wax, bay laurel wax or sunflower wax, especially refined sunflower wax;

[0162] vii) Mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes of animal or vegetable origin; the number of (C2-C4)oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100 and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. Examples that may be mentioned include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin wax, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glycerides; polyglycerolized beeswax, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, acacia decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax / polyglyceryl-3 ester mixtures, polyglycerolized vegetable waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof (acacia decurrens / jojoba / sunflower seed wax polyglyceryl-3 ester).

[0163] silicone wax The term "silicone wax" is understood to mean a wax containing at least one silicon atom, in particular a wax containing Si-O groups.

[0164] Examples of silicone waxes that may be mentioned include mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 alkyldimethylsilylpolypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by Dow Corning. Also included may be mixtures containing compounds of the C30-45 alkylmethicone (INCI name) type, such as the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Siliconized beeswax may also be mentioned.

[0165] Preferably, when the composition contains a wax, the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes.More particularly, it is selected from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; and also mixtures thereof; preferably selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and polar hydrocarbon waxes, in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0166] Preferably, the wax content ranges advantageously from 6 to 18% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Pasty hydrocarbon compounds The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound.

[0168] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change and that comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 20° C. A pasty compound may therefore have an onset melting point below 20° C.

[0169] The melting point of a pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as detailed above for waxes. However, in the case of pasty compounds, the measurement procedure is as follows:

[0170] A 5 mg sample of the pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase in the range from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / min, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase in the range from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / min.

[0171] The melting point of a pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the highest peak on the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0172] It should be noted that the liquid fraction (by mass) of a pasty fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of this pasty fatty substance.

[0173] The enthalpy of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance to go from the solid state to the liquid state. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0174] The enthalpy of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0175] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from: - vegetable butters, such as mango butter, for example the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product with the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii butter, for example the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn, cupuaçu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter, for example the product sold under the reference Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen; fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, for example, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, for example, the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil produced or sold under the reference Iso-Jojoba-50® by Desert Whale, partially hydrogenated olive oils, such as, for example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance; - Hydrogenated Castor Oil and C 16 ~C 22 esters with fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid, such as SALACOS HCIS(VL) sold by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.; - preferably saturated, linear or branched C-C 10 Dicarboxylic acids, diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C-C 20 Esters obtained by condensation of esters of monocarboxylic acids, in particular adipic acid, diglycerol and C-C 20 diesters obtained by condensation with mixtures of esters of fatty acids, such as mixtures of stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular those sold under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2); - optionally hydrogenated (fully or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 ~C 18 for example, saturated C triglycerides of fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo. 12 ~C 18 Glycerides of fatty acids (INCI name: Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides); Esters of diol dimers or of polyols and diacid dimers, such as: *Esters of dimeric dilinoleyl alcohol and dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterol, behenyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol, such as the ester sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name Plandool G (INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis(Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl) Dimer Dilinoleate); *Esters of dilinoleic acid with a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, such as the esters sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleic Acid (Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl)); *Esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dimer dilinoleic acid, such as those sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd. under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0176] Preferably, when the composition comprises a pasty compound, the pasty compound is selected from the group consisting of vegetable butter, partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, linear or branched C6-C 10 Dicarboxylic acids, diglycerol and optionally hydroxylated straight or branched chain C-C 20 Esters resulting from the condensation of esters with monocarboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 ~C 18 triglycerides with fatty acids, and also mixtures thereof.

[0177] Even more preferably, when the composition comprises a pasty compound, the pasty compound is selected from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds having the INCI names: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and hydrogenated cocoglycerides, bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] When the composition contains them, their content ranges from 6 to 20% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] pigment According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one dye, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0180] The colorants may be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] pigment The term "pigment" means white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and that are intended to color the resulting composition and / or deposit.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0183] The term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments of Ullmann's encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, in addition to zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, mention may be made of zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide, and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, or metal powders such as aluminum or copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0184] The size of pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may be less than or equal to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferentially in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm, possibly less than or equal to 10 μm, preferably in the range of 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferentially in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm. This size is measured by light scattering using a commercially available Mastersizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range that may range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for particle size distributions in the submicron to several micron range; this allows the measurement of the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] denotes the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0185] In the context of the present invention, inorganic pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as sold under the trademark NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.

[0186] Inorganic pigments that may be used in the present invention may also include pearlescent agents.

[0187] The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean colored particles of any shape, which may be iridescent or not, produced in particular by certain mollusks in their shells or synthesized, and which exhibit color effects by light interference.

[0188] The pearlescent agent may be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with iron oxide, titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with organic dyes, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.

[0189] Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned are titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or natural mica coated with bismuth oxychloride.

[0190] The pearlescent agent may more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper color or shade.

[0191] Among the pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention, mention may also be made of those that have a simple conventional coloring effect, i.e., an optical effect that differs from the uniform and stabilized effect produced by conventional dyes, e.g., monochromatic pigments.

[0192] For purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means free from the effects of color variability with angle of observation or in response to temperature changes.

[0193] For example, this material may be chosen from particles with metallic shades, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to show two effects simultaneously, or even new effects according to the invention.

[0194] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0195] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.This type of pigment is particularly advantageous.As long as it is treated with a hydrophobic compound, it exhibits excellent affinity to the oily phase, and in this case, the oily phase can retain the pigment.The coating can also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0196] For the purposes of the present invention, a "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally refers to a total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent that is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0197] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.

[0198] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted to the pigment surface by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reaction and the formation of covalent bonds. According to one variant, the surface treatment comprises coating the pigment. The coating can represent 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the pigment to be coated.

[0199] The coating can be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the solid particles with the liquid surface agent under stirring, optionally with heating, prior to incorporation of the particles into other ingredients of the cosmetic or care composition.

[0200] The coating can be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particle and the formation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particle, a process which is described inter alia in U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,266.

[0201] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0202] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated in accordance with the present invention with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents; fluorine-based surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone-based surface treatment agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty acid esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0203] According to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated with a hydrophobic compound.

[0204] According to one particular embodiment, the pigment is a synthetic, natural or naturally occurring organic pigment.

[0205] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia. The organic pigment may be selected from, inter alia, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0206] Organic pigments are, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments which are codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, The red pigments may be selected from those designated as 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives, as described in French Patent No. 2 679 771.

[0207] The pigment may also be in the form of a composite pigment as described in EP 1 184 426. This composite pigment may in particular consist of particles comprising an organic pigment and a core of inorganic material at least partially coated with at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0208] The pigment may also be a lake.

[0209] The term "lake" is understood to mean dyes insolubilized by adsorption onto insoluble particles, the mass thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0210] Inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0211] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15). 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green 5(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI) 42 090).

[0212] An example of a lake is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0213] fat soluble dye For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liposoluble dye" is understood to mean any natural or synthetic compound, generally an organic compound, that is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent miscible with the oily phase and is capable of imparting color.

[0214] Lipid-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention include, in particular, liposoluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red or Sudan Brown.

[0215] Examples of natural fat-soluble dyes include, in particular, carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinazin Green SS), and chlorophyll.

[0216] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition may contain 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular 1% to 15% by weight, and even more particularly 3% to 15% by weight of a pigment relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may be pigment-free.

[0217] water The composition according to the invention may optionally contain water. Advantageously, the water content is not more than 5% by weight, preferably not more than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, when the composition contains water, the water content is not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly not more than 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] Optional adjuvants In the context of the present invention, the composition may also comprise at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetics field, and in particular in makeup and / or care compositions for the skin and lips.

[0219] Examples include lipophilic inorganic thickeners, organic thickeners such as dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active agents; fragrances; and the like.

[0220] Among the lipophilic inorganic thickeners which are different from the inorganic fillers mentioned above and in particular different from the lipophilic clays, mention may be made of compounds chosen from those having the following INCI names: silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the properties desired for the compositions of the present invention.

[0222] These optional adjuvants may be present in a content that may range up to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0223] The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to conventional methods in the art, preferably using an organophilic clay-type filler containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, in powder form, not in gel form, but in pre-dispersed form, in particular in a solvent selected, for example, from C1-C2 alcohols, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] The following examples make it possible to understand the invention in more detail, but are not of a limiting nature.

[0225] Starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI names.

[0226] When amounts are given, they are weight percentages of starting material unless otherwise specified. [Example]

[0227] Example 1 The following compositions were prepared, the ingredient list and their contents being listed in the table below:

[0228] [Table 1]

[0229] [Table 2]

[0230] Preparation method: 1. Oil (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl isostearate, tritridecyl trimellitate, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) and paste-like compound (bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.

[0231] 2. Once a homogeneous mixture is obtained, add the pigment while stirring and heat the mixture to 45°C.

[0232] 3. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the isohexadecane or isododecane with stirring.

[0233] 4. After the mixture is homogenized, the fillers (kaolin, silica, disteardimonium hectorite, mica) are added with stirring.

[0234] 5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) are introduced with stirring, followed by the silicone elastomer.

[0235] 6. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool, after which it is removed from the molds and the resulting lipstick sticks are packaged.

[0236] Composition evaluation:

[0237] [Table 3]

[0238] Example 2 The following compositions were prepared, the ingredient list and their contents being listed in the table below:

[0239] [Table 4]

[0240] Preparation method: 1. Oil (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl isostearate, tritridecyl trimellitate, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) and paste-like compound (bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.

[0241] 2. Once a homogeneous mixture is obtained, add the pigment while stirring and heat the mixture to 45°C.

[0242] 3. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the isohexadecane with stirring.

[0243] 4. After the mixture is homogenized, the fillers (kaolin, cellulose, disteardimonium hectorite, mica) are added with stirring.

[0244] 5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) are introduced with stirring, followed by the silicone elastomer.

[0245] 6. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool, after which it is removed from the molds and the resulting lipstick sticks are packaged.

[0246] Composition evaluation:

[0247] [Table 5]

[0248] Example 3 The following compositions were prepared, the ingredient list and their contents being listed in the table below:

[0249] [Table 6]

[0250] [Table 7]

[0251] Preparation method: 1. Oil (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl isostearate, tritridecyl trimellitate, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) and paste-like compound (bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.

[0252] 2. Once a homogeneous mixture is obtained, add the pigment while stirring and heat the mixture to 45°C.

[0253] 3. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the isohexadecane with stirring.

[0254] 4. After the mixture is homogenized, the fillers (kaolin, disteardimonium hectorite, KSP-100, mica) are added with stirring.

[0255] 5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) are introduced with stirring, followed by the silicone elastomer.

[0256] 6. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool, after which it is removed from the molds and the resulting lipstick sticks are packaged.

[0257] Composition evaluation:

[0258] [Table 8]

[0259] Example 4 The following compositions were prepared, the ingredient list and their contents being listed in the table below:

[0260] [Table 9]

[0261] Preparation method: 1. Oil (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl isostearate, tritridecyl trimellitate, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) and paste-like compound (bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.

[0262] 2. Once a homogeneous mixture is obtained, add the pigment while stirring and heat the mixture to 45°C.

[0263] 3. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the isohexadecane with stirring.

[0264] 4. After the mixture is homogenized, the fillers (kaolin, disteardimonium hectorite, KSP-100, mica) are added with stirring.

[0265] 5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) are introduced with stirring, followed by the silicone elastomer.

[0266] 6. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool, after which it is removed from the molds and the resulting lipstick sticks are packaged.

[0267] Composition evaluation:

[0268] [Table 10]

[0269] Example 5 The following comparative compositions were prepared, and the list of ingredients and amounts of said compositions are listed in the table below:

[0270] [Table 11]

[0271] [Table 12]

[0272] Preparation method: 1. The oils (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl isostearate, tritridecyl trimellitate, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) and the pasty compound (bis-diglyceryl polyadipate-2) are mixed with activated hectorite (BENTONE GEL ISD V) while stirring.

[0273] 2. Once a homogeneous mixture is obtained, add the pigment while stirring and heat the mixture to 45°C.

[0274] 3. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the isohexadecane with stirring.

[0275] 4. After the mixture is homogenized, the fillers (kaolin, silica, mica) are added with stirring.

[0276] 5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) are introduced with stirring, followed by the silicone elastomer.

[0277] 6. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool, after which it is removed from the molds and the resulting lipstick sticks are packaged.

[0278] Composition evaluation:

[0279] [Table 13]

[0280] Example 6 The following compositions were prepared, the ingredient list and their contents being listed in the table below:

[0281] [Table 14]

[0282] Preparation method: 1. Oil (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl isostearate, tritridecyl trimellitate, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) and paste-like compound (bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.

[0283] 2. Once a homogeneous mixture is obtained, add the pigment while stirring and heat the mixture to 45°C.

[0284] 3. Once the mixture is homogeneous, add the isohexadecane with stirring.

[0285] 4. After the mixture is homogenized, the fillers (kaolin, disteardimonium hectorite, KSP-100, mica) are added with stirring.

[0286] 5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) are introduced with stirring, followed by the silicone elastomer.

[0287] 6. After a homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool, after which it is removed from the molds and the resulting lipstick sticks are packaged.

[0288] Composition evaluation:

[0289] [Table 15]

Claims

1. A solid matte cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, intended to be applied to the skin and / or lips, comprising: * at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, of at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C, relative to the total weight of the composition １４ ~C １９ A hydrocarbon oil; at least one inorganic or organic filler, including at least one filler of organophilic clay type containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, said organophilic clay type filler being present in an amount of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; At least one second oil selected from polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils or non-volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, which are different from the first oil; At least one silicone elastomer held in at least one oil that is the same as or different from the first or second oil; A solid matte cosmetic composition comprising:

2. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the first oil is chosen, alone or in mixture, from the following oils (INCI names): tetradecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, octadecane, C15-19 alkanes, preferably isohexadecane.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the first oil is between 10 and 25% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipophilic clay-type filler is chosen from hectorites containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, bentonites containing at least one quaternary ammonium group or mixtures thereof, preferably from disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 hectorite and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from disteardimonium hectorite.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the organophilic clay-type filler is used in powder form.

6. The organophilic clay type filler is, in particular, e.g. １ ~C ２ 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is used in pre-dispersed form in a solvent chosen from alcohol, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate and mixtures thereof, in particular not in the form of a gel.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it may comprise: particles of silica (INCI name: Silica), preferably in the form of spherical particles; kaolin; mica; talc; perlite; boron nitride, calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate; hydroxyapatite, and mixtures thereof; at least one inorganic filler preferably chosen from kaolin, mica and optionally silica, and mixtures thereof; *Particles of polyethylene, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose; particles of polyamide, polyurethane, acrylonitrile (co)polymer, polytetrafluoroethylene, acrylic acid (co)polymer; particles of silicone resin, silicone elastomer optionally coated with silicone resin, methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer; synthetic or natural micronized wax; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms; glass or ceramic microcapsules; or mixtures thereof; preferably cellulose, N-(C ８ ~C ２２ at least one organic filler selected from the group consisting of (acylated) amino acids, and mixtures thereof; *Mixtures of these.

8. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the content of inorganic and / or organic fillers ranges from 1 to 12% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the total content of fillers represents from 1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 15% by weight, and even more particularly from 7 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The second oil is C １０ ~C ２６ 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is chosen from polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as alcohols; ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which the R and R' groups, which may be identical or different, represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon radicals containing up to 16 carbon atoms; oils containing one or more ester functional groups and containing at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radical, the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12; ester oils which may optionally contain one or more ether or hydroxyl functional groups, and also mixtures thereof; preferably vegetable oils; optionally hydroxylated ester oils containing 1 to 4 ester functional groups, at least one of which is saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, linear or branched, and containing at least 12 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

11. 11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The second oil is selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, squalane, especially of plant origin, isoeicosane, saturated linear hydrocarbons, more especially C ２１ ~C ２８ 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is chosen from non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons; optionally hydrogenated polybutenes; optionally hydrogenated polyisobutenes; optionally hydrogenated polydecenes, and also mixtures thereof.

13. 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the content of non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The second oil is dimethicone, alkyl group is C ２ ~C ２４ 14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of phenylsilicones selected from alkyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones; trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane; trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone; diphenyl dimethicone; tetramethyltetraphenyl trisiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

15. 15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the content of non-volatile silicone oil ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. 16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the content of the non-volatile second oil ranges from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is in the form of a gel.

18. 18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is chosen from dimethicone crosspolymer; vinyl dimethicone / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer; dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer; dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsoloxysilicate crosspolymer, and also mixtures thereof, preferably dimethicone crosspolymer.

19. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of silicone elastomer, expressed as active substance, ranges from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 4.5% by weight and very advantageously from 3 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one additional volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to less than 14 carbon atoms; linear or cyclic silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and when said composition comprises an additional volatile oil, its content is more particularly equal to or less than 25%, preferably equal to or less than 10% and even more preferentially equal to or less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. 21. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is carried out in at least one oil chosen from linear or cyclic, preferably linear, volatile silicone oils; from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils; from volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as isododecane, or polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as triethylhexanoin and vegetable oils; preferably from linear volatile silicone oils; and from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, in particular those having the INCI names: dimethicone, methyltrimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone and phenyltrimethicone.

22. 22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises water in a content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight and advantageously less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dye, chosen in particular from pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

24. 24. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or synthetic waxes), polyethylene waxes, mixtures thereof; from polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as alcohol waxes, ester waxes, in particular of vegetable origin, mixtures thereof; silicone waxes; and mixtures thereof, preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic waxes, and polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil.

25. 25. Composition according to claim 24, characterized in that the wax content ranges from 6 to 18% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. Vegetable butter, partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, linear or branched C ６ ~C １０ Dicarboxylic acids, diglycerol, and optionally hydroxylated linear or branched C ６ ~C ２０ Esters obtained from the condensation of esters with monocarboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C １２ ~C １８ 26. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that it comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids, and also mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds having the INCI name bis-diglyceryl polyadipate-2 and hydrogenated cocoglycerides, bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, and also mixtures thereof.

27. 27. The composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the content of pasty compound ranges from 6 to 20% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, which method consists in applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 27.

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