Camellia oleifera tea oil concentrates and their uses

Abstract

The present invention relates to a lipid extract of Camellia tea oil enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction, to a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising said lipid extract together with suitable excipients, and to uses thereof.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction, and to a cosmetic, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising said lipid extract together with suitable excipients.

[0002] Another object of the present invention is a method for preparing a lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction. The present invention also relates to such a composition or such an extract for use in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes, or appendages. Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic care method for the skin, appendages, or mucous membranes, aimed at improving their condition or appearance, comprising administering such a composition or such an extract, in particular to improve the physical / physiological and psychological well-being of the user.

[0003] Current Technology The Camellia genus is native to East Asia and includes over 200 evergreen woody species. Some species have high economic value, such as C. sinensis, C. japonica, and C. oleifera. C. sinensis is primarily cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions for its tea, while C. japonica is cultivated in temperate regions for its ornamental qualities. Its oil has traditionally been used in cosmetics in Japan. C. oleifera, also known as the oil-tea camellia, thrives in poor soils without fertilizer, begins bearing fruit six years after planting, and can maintain high productivity for 80 years. This species is primarily cultivated in China for the production of edible oil ("camellia oil" or "tea seed oil") (Yang et al., 2016).

[0004] The amount of oil and fatty acid composition in seeds can vary depending on cultivar, soil, and climate (Hu & Yang, 2018). Wen et al. (2018) estimated that light intensity during fruit development and ripening (July–October) affects fruit yield and quality.

[0005] Regarding varietal diversity, Yang et al. (2016) compared seeds from 10 cultivated varieties and several wild individuals and concluded that the oil content and fatty acid profile of their extracts were not affected by artificial cultivation and variety selection.

[0006] Camellia oleifera oil is used in cooking and is also traditionally used to treat stomach aches and burns. Because it contains similar monounsaturated fatty acids (primarily C18:1) as olive oil, several studies have been conducted to determine whether it offers similar health benefits, particularly in terms of reducing cardiovascular risk. Studies have demonstrated tea oil's ability to reduce cholesterol, triglycerides, and low-density lipoprotein levels, as well as thromboxane B2 and lipid peroxidation products. It also increases the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px). Some of these activities may be due to the presence of saponins.

[0007] The applicant has discovered that a lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil, enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction, possesses cosmetic and dermatological properties that have not been previously described.

[0008] In particular, this is the first time that such a lipid extract has been used as such due to its specific properties. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil thus enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction can be used to stimulate, restore or regulate the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or for the prevention and / or treatment of disorders associated with skin tissue. Summary of the Invention

[0009] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a lipid extract of tea oil, said lipid extract being Camellia oleifera tea oil enriched in its unsaponifiable fraction, containing between 1.5 and 100% by weight, preferably between 1.8 and 80% by weight, and preferentially between 2 and 60% by weight, of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0010] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing said extract, comprising the following series of steps: a) Molecular distillation of crude or refined Camellia oleifera tea oil; b) Extraction of unsaponifiable matter, if applicable; c) recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained after step a) or the unsaponifiable matter obtained after step b), d) Optionally, a step of deodorizing and / or decolorizing the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or unsaponifiable matter. The present invention relates to a method comprising the steps of:

[0011] Advantageously, step b) comprises the following sequence of steps: i. saponification of the concentrated tea oil obtained after step a) to obtain its unsaponifiable fraction; ii. Subsequent extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent such as ethyl acetate and hexane The compound comprises:

[0012] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a composition comprising said lipid extract of tea oil as an active ingredient and suitable excipients, which may be a cosmetic, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition.

[0013] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a composition comprising an extract according to the invention or an extract according to the invention or obtainable by a method according to the invention, for use in a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition.

[0014] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of an extract according to the invention, or a composition comprising an extract according to the invention or an extract obtainable by the method according to the invention, in a functional food composition or as a food supplement.

[0015] According to a sixth aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic care of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, aimed at improving the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, comprising the topical or oral administration of an extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention.

[0016] According to a seventh aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of dry, xerotic, sensitive or rough skin, comprising the topical or oral administration of an extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Detailed Description of the Invention The object of the present invention is a lipid extract of tea oil, said lipid extract being Camellia oleifera tea oil enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction, containing between 1.5 and 100% by weight, preferably between 1.8 and 80% by weight, preferentially between 2 and 60% by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0018] Unsaponifiable matter is the fraction of fatty substances that become insoluble in water after the prolonged action of alkaline bases and can be extracted with organic solvents. Five main groups of substances are present among the most unsaponifiable substances of vegetable oils: saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, aliphatic or terpene alcohols, sterols, tocopherols, tocotrienols, carotenoid pigments and xanthophylls.

[0019] The oil is enriched in its unsaponifiable fraction and in particular comprises more than 1.5% by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract, advantageously more than 2% by weight, preferably more than 2.5% by weight.

[0020] The lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil concentrated in the unsaponifiable fraction advantageously comprises fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more advantageously 16 to 20 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated. This concentrate is advantageously obtained from refined tea oil. This oil can be refined according to methods known to those skilled in the art, such as physical refining (degumming with water, deacidification by steam-stripping deodorization) and chemical refining (degumming with water or acid treatment to remove phospholipids, neutralization of free fatty acids with a basic solution, bleaching, refrigeration, and deodorization), especially deodorization by steam-stripping. An example of the characteristics of refined Camellia oleifera tea oil is shown in the table below.

[0021] [Table 1]

[0022] From this oil, Camellia oleifera tea oil is advantageously concentrated to an unsaponifiable fraction - "concentration" generally by molecular distillation. The oil concentrated to an unsaponifiable fraction advantageously has the following specifications:

[0023] [Table 2]

[0024] Advantageously, the unsaponifiable fraction is:

[0025] [Table 3]

[0026] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the α-tocopherol content is greater than 60% by weight, preferably 80% by weight and preferentially 95% by weight relative to the total weight of tocopherols.

[0027] According to another preferred embodiment, the sterol content of the extract according to the invention is greater than 1.5% by weight, preferably greater than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0028] The lipid extract according to the invention advantageously contains preferably 10 to 50% by weight, preferentially 15 to 40% by weight, more preferentially 15 to 35% by weight, and generally 20 to 35% by weight, of β-amyrin and Δ5-avenasterol, relative to the total weight of sterols, and / or preferably 10 to 50% by weight, preferentially 15 to 40% by weight, more preferentially 15 to 35% by weight, and generally 20 to 35% by weight, of lupeol and Δ7-stigmasterol, relative to the total weight of sterols.

[0029] Advantageously, the lipid extract according to the invention comprises: [Table 4]

[0030] The extract according to the invention is advantageously obtained by the following series of steps: a) Molecular distillation of crude or refined Camellia oleifera tea oil; b) Extraction of unsaponifiable matter, if applicable; c) recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained after step a) or the unsaponifiable matter obtained after step b), and d) Optionally, a step of deodorizing and / or decolorizing the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or unsaponifiable matter. The method is obtained by a method comprising the steps of:

[0031] If an oil enriched in unsaponifiable matter is recovered, step b) is not carried out. If an unsaponifiable fraction is recovered, step b) is carried out.

[0032] This step b) advantageously comprises the following sequence of steps: i. saponification of the concentrated tea oil obtained after step a) to obtain its unsaponifiable fraction; ii. Subsequent extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent such as ethyl acetate and hexane The compound comprises:

[0033] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing an extract according to the invention, comprising the following series of steps: a) Molecular distillation of crude or refined Camellia oleifera tea oil; b) Extraction of unsaponifiable matter, if applicable; c) recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained after step a) or the unsaponifiable matter obtained after step b), and d) Optionally, a step of deodorizing and / or decolorizing the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or unsaponifiable matter. The present invention relates to a method comprising the steps of:

[0034] The molecular distillation step a) is preferably carried out using an apparatus selected from centrifugal molecular stills and scraped film molecular stills.

[0035] Centrifugal molecular stills are known to those skilled in the art. For example, application EP 493 144 describes a molecular still of this type. Typically, the product to be distilled is spread thinly on the heated (hot) surface of a conical rotor that rotates at high speed. The distillation chamber is placed under vacuum. Under these conditions, the oil components, such as unsaponifiable matter, evaporate from the hot surface without boiling, which has the advantage that the oil and its components, especially the unsaponifiable matter (these products are known to be fragile), are not decomposed during evaporation.

[0036] Scraped-film molecular stills are also known to those skilled in the art. Generally, they comprise a distillation chamber equipped with a rotating scraper, allowing continuous diffusion of the distilled product onto the evaporation surface (hot surface). The product vapors are condensed by a cooling finger located in the center of the distillation chamber. The peripheral feed and vacuum system is very similar to that of centrifugal stills (feed pump, vane and oil diffusion vacuum pump, etc.). The residue and distillate are collected by gravity flow into suitable containers.

[0037] At the end of the fractionation step, the unsaponifiable matter-rich distillate fraction advantageously represents 3 to 15% by weight of the starting oil, and the triglyceride-rich distillate fraction advantageously represents 85 to 97% by weight of the starting oil.

[0038] Furthermore, it was confirmed that this method did not result in any chemical modification or change of the unsaponifiable compounds, and the highly unsaturated fraction was preserved. Therefore, the fatty acid distribution of the concentrated tea oil is identical to that of the tea oil before concentration.

[0039] After this molecular distillation step, the resulting product may optionally be deodorized and / or decolorized by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example by steam stripping or molecular distillation, or by treatment with activated carbon.

[0040] The tea oil thus obtained, concentrated in the unsaponifiable fraction, has the above-mentioned characteristics.

[0041] If it is desired to recover oil enriched in unsaponifiables, step b) is not carried out.

[0042] When the unsaponifiable fraction is recovered, step b) is carried out, which advantageously comprises the following sequence of steps: i. saponification of the concentrated tea oil obtained after step a) to obtain its unsaponifiable fraction; ii. Subsequent extraction of the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent such as ethyl acetate and hexane The compound comprises:

[0043] The unsaponifiable matter of tea oil can be obtained by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example, by saponifying tea oil concentrated into an unsaponifiable fraction, followed by extraction of the unsaponifiable matter with a suitable solvent. Typically, the unsaponifiable matter is washed until all soap is removed, followed by evaporation of the solvent. Finally, the unsaponifiable matter is advantageously subjected to deodorization with steam, followed by nitrogen stripping to remove traces of the solvent.

[0044] The unsaponifiable matter of tea oil thus obtained advantageously has the above mentioned characteristics.

[0045] In the remainder of the specification, "extract according to the invention" is taken to mean an extract as defined above or an extract obtainable by the method according to the invention as explained above.

[0046] Another object of the present invention relates to a composition comprising as active ingredient a lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil according to the invention.

[0047] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and even more advantageously from 0.1 to 10% by weight of said lipid extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The lipid extract according to the invention is advantageously used as an active agent in a composition, such as a cosmetic, nutraceutical, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, which may comprise one or more suitable excipients.

[0049] The compositions according to the invention can be formulated in the form of various preparations suitable for topical or oral administration.

[0050] Alternatively, various preparations are suitable for topical administration, including creams, emulsions, milks, ointments, lotions, oils, aqueous or hydroalcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, patches, sprays, shampoos, polishes, or any other formulation for external use.

[0051] For cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological use, the compositions are advantageously formulated in the form of preparations suitable for topical administration.

[0052] For functional food applications, the composition is advantageously formulated in the form of a preparation suitable for oral administration. The extract according to the present invention can be contained in a food supplement or a functional food composition. The food supplement can contain the extract according to the present invention as is, or in the form of a gelatin capsule, vegetable capsule, or soft capsule. The food supplement can contain 10 to 100% by weight of the extract according to the present invention.

[0053] The compositions of the present invention can be directly incorporated without further modification into functional foods, dietary products, especially those high in protein, or beverages using techniques such as mixing, infusion, infusion, blending, absorbing, kneading, and spraying.

[0054] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain adjuvants conventional in the pharmaceutical, dermatological, cosmetic, or functional food fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, thickeners, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, chelating agents, odor absorbers, chemical or mineral filters, mineral pigments, surfactants, polymers, silicone oils, and coloring substances. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example, 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be incorporated into the fatty phase, the aqueous phase, lipid vesicles, and / or nanoparticles. Those skilled in the art will be able to select the appropriate adjuvants depending on the intended use.

[0055] The oils that can be used in the compositions for carrying out the present invention include mineral oils, oils of plant origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil, plum oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers).Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids and waxes (beeswax) can also be used as fats and oils.

[0056] Emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers that can be used in the present invention include, for example, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, fatty acid and polyol esters, such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.

[0057] Hydrophilic gelling agents include, among others, carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, while lipophilic gelling agents include bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and modified clays such as polyethylene.

[0058] The mode of administration, dosage and optimal galenical form of the composition according to the invention can be determined according to criteria generally considered when establishing a suitable pharmaceutical, dermatological or cosmetic treatment for a patient, such as, for example, the size of the area of ​​skin to be treated, tolerance to the treatment, skin type, etc.

[0059] The present invention also relates to the use of an extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention as a food supplement or in a functional food composition.

[0060] The present invention also relates to an extract according to the invention, or a composition according to the invention, for use as or in a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition.

[0061] The compositions or extracts according to the invention can be used to stimulate, restore or regulate the metabolism of skin and mucous membrane cells and / or in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders associated with skin tissue. Advantageously, the compositions or extracts according to the invention are used for the prevention and / or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages.

[0062] Preferably, the skin and / or mucous membrane and / or appendage disorders or pathologies are selected from disorders related to endogenous or exogenous stress, such as psychological stress, stress related to anxiety states, stress related to radical attacks with or without chemical or air pollution, and / or stress related to UV or IR exposure, barrier or homeostasis disorders, photosensitive skin, mechanical and / or thermal attacks, or as healing agents. The skin and / or mucous membrane and / or appendage disorders or pathologies can also be selected from those caused by an imbalance in the microbiota, advantageously selected from atopic dermatitis, eczema, the development of axillary odor, weakened skin barrier, acne, psoriasis, hidradenitis suppurativa, folliculitis, cradle cap, dandruff, itching, especially scalp itching, irritation, candidiasis, and bacterial vaginosis.

[0063] Advantageously, the inflammatory, irritant reaction, disorder, or pathology or disorder of the skin barrier or homeostasis is acne, rosacea or erythema, vascular disorders, in particular redness and cupellosis, diaper dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, eczema, contact dermatitis, irritant dermatitis, allergic dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis (cradle cap), sensitive skin, reactive skin, dry skin (xerosis), dehydrated skin, red skin, erythema, aging / photoaging skin, photosensitive skin, pigmented skin (chloasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, etc.), skin with stretch marks, sunburn, irritation by chemical or physical agents (e.g. stress in pregnant women), bacterial, fungal, skin ageing, in particular photoageing, chemical or pollution-related free radical attack, and / or disorders related to UV or IR exposure.

[0064] Particularly advantageously, the disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages are selected from dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin and irritation.

[0065] Advantageously, the present invention also relates to an extract according to the invention or a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin, irritation, chapped lips, cheilitis, atopic dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis, which may be skin disorders associated with endogenous or exogenous stress, such as psychological stress.

[0066] The composition or extract according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to improve the comfort of the skin.

[0067] According to certain embodiments, the extract or composition according to the invention can be used as an anti-aging and / or healing agent, to prevent damage to the skin and / or to maintain the homeostasis of the skin or mucous membranes, or as an antioxidant and / or anti-inflammatory agent. Advantageously, the composition or extract according to the invention can be used to prevent or delay premature skin aging, in particular photoinduced, and advantageously to prevent, reduce and / or treat wrinkles, fine lines or changes in microrelief.

[0068] The compositions or extracts according to the present invention may also be used to promote healing.

[0069] According to particular technical features, the composition or extract according to the invention can also be used in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or conditions selected from the group consisting of superficial scars, chapped lips and cheilitis, stretch marks, skin after bites, skin abrasions, age spots and / or skin scabs, and fragile sensitive skin, advantageously fragile sensitive skin.

[0070] The present invention also relates to the use of the extract according to the invention or the composition according to the invention for the manufacture of a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological composition for the prevention and / or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, preferably disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages selected from disorders associated with endogenous or exogenous stress, such as inflammatory responses, psychological stress, stress associated with anxiety states, stress associated with radical attacks with or without chemical or air pollution, and / or stress associated with exposure to UV or IR, barrier or homeostasis disorders, photosensitive skin, mechanical and / or thermal attacks.

[0071] The present invention further relates to a method for preventing and / or treating disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, comprising the administration, in particular the topical administration, to a subject in need thereof of an effective amount of the extract according to the invention or the composition according to the invention. Preferably, the disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages are as defined above.

[0072] Another object of the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method aimed at the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or its appendages and / or mucous membranes, advantageously aimed at improving their firmness, elasticity or tone, comprising the topical or oral administration of an extract or composition according to the invention.

[0073] The cosmetic care method is preferably carried out with the aim of improving skin comfort in general for healthy skin, healthy appendages or healthy mucous membranes, and particularly advantageously for treating and / or preventing dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin and rough skin.

[0074] The cosmetic uses and cosmetic care methods according to the invention are generally carried out on healthy skin or healthy body parts and are not therapeutic.

[0075] Another object of the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of dry, xerotic, sensitive and rough skin, comprising the administration by topical or oral route of an extract or composition according to the invention.

[0076] Dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin and rough skin lead to a feeling of tightness and a lack of skin comfort and suppleness. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0077] [Figure 1] Figure 1: Results for active ingredient and placebo for each of the 10 parameters of the "Sensitivity Scale" (left: active ingredient, right: placebo). Significance for D0 and D28: * = significant (α < 0.05), ° = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). Significance for active ingredient and placebo: solid line = significant (α < 0.05), dashed line = = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). [Figure 2] Figure 2: Total scores for active ingredient and placebo on the "Sensitivity Scale" (left: active ingredient, right: placebo). Significance for D0 and D28: * = significant (α < 0.05), ° = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). Significance for active ingredient and placebo: solid line = significant (α < 0.05), dashed line = = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). [Figure 3] Figure 3: Vocal stress evolution (left: active ingredient, right: placebo). Significance between D0 and D28: * = significant (α<0.05), ° = borderline significant (0.05<α<0.1). Significance between active ingredient and placebo: solid line = significant (α<0.05), dashed line = = borderline significant (0.05<α<0.1). [Figure 4] Figure 4: Cardiac coherence evolution (left: active ingredient, right: placebo). Significance for D0 and D28: * = significant (α < 0.05), ° = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). Significance for active ingredient vs. placebo: solid line = significant (α < 0.05), dashed line = = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). [Figure 5]Figure 5: Evolution of electrodermal response (left: active ingredient, right: placebo). Significance between D0 and D28: * = significant (α<0.05), ° = borderline significant (0.05<α<0.1). Significance between active ingredient and placebo: solid line = significant (α<0.05), dashed line = = borderline significant (0.05<α<0.1). [Figure 6] Figure 6: Corneometry assessment (left: active ingredient, right: placebo) and hydration assessment (left: active ingredient, right: placebo). Significance for D0 and D28: * = significant (α < 0.05), ° = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). Significance for active ingredient vs. placebo: solid line = significant (α < 0.05), dashed line = = borderline significant (0.05 < α < 0.1). [Example]

[0078] Example 1: Concentrate according to the invention An example of a concentrate according to the present invention is the refined oil of Camellia oleifera concentrated in the unsaponifiable fraction. The extract is prepared by molecular distillation.

[0079] Vacuum condition: 10 -2 ~10 -3 millibar Distillation temperature: 250-280℃ The mass distribution is shown in the table below.

[0080] [Table 5]

[0081] The mass distribution of tocopherols is shown in the table below.

[0082] [Table 6]

[0083] The mass distribution of sterols is shown in the table below.

[0084] [Table 7]

[0085] Example 2: In vitro biological activity test of the extract according to the invention The extract tested was the concentrate from Example 1, which is referred to in this study as "Tea Oil Concentrate." Unless otherwise specified, percentages are expressed as the weight of the concentrate relative to the total weight of the composition tested.

[0086] anti-inflammatory activity The anti-inflammatory activity of tea oil concentrate (THE) was investigated by assaying interleukin-1α (IL-1α) produced by keratinocytes in response to pro-inflammatory stress induced by PMA (phorbol-myristate-acetate) in a normal human keratinocyte model, a PMA-stressed reconstructed epidermis model, and an SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate)-stressed reconstructed epidermis model.

[0087] Effect on normal human keratinocyte model material and method Normal human keratinocytes were preincubated for 24 hours in the presence of 0.001%, 0.005%, or 0.01% tea oil concentrate or 0.1 μM dexamethasone, an anti-inflammatory reference. Cells were then stimulated overnight with 10 μg / mL PMA (phorbol-myristate-acetate).

[0088] At the end of the treatment, the produced IL-1α was quantified in the culture supernatant by ELISA assay.

[0089] The results were statistically analyzed by one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) followed by Tukey's post hoc test.

[0090] result Tea oil concentrate has anti-inflammatory potential as it significantly inhibited PMA-induced IL-1α production in keratinocytes.

[0091] [Table 8]

[0092] Effects in a PMA-stressed reconstructed epidermis model material and method The reconstructed epidermis was treated topically with a cream containing 1% tea oil concentrate or its placebo, or treated globally with 1 μM dexamethasone, an anti-inflammatory reference. After 24 hours of preincubation, the epidermis was stimulated with 0.5 μg / mL PMA and incubated again for 24 hours.

[0093] The culture supernatant was collected and then subjected to IL-1α assay.

[0094] The results were statistically analyzed using ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test.

[0095] result Tea oil concentrate formulated at 1% significantly inhibited PMA-induced IL-1α release in reconstructed epidermis, an effect that was significantly different from placebo.

[0096] [Table 9]

[0097] Effects in a reconstructed epidermal model subjected to SDS stress material and method The reconstructed epidermis was topically treated with a preparation (cream) containing 1% tea oil concentrate or its placebo. After 24 hours of pre-incubation, the epidermis was stimulated with 0.1% SDS for 30 minutes, then treated with the product again for 24 hours and incubated again for 24 hours.

[0098] After collecting the culture supernatant, IL-1α and IL-8 were measured by ELISA assay.

[0099] The results were statistically analyzed using ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test.

[0100] result Tea oil concentrate formulated at 1% inhibited SDS-induced release of IL-1α and IL-8.

[0101] [Table 10]

[0102] These various results demonstrate the anti-inflammatory potential of tea oil concentrate.

[0103] anti-aging activity Skin aging is characterized by changes in the dermal matrix, including a decrease in the quality and quantity of matrix fibers.

[0104] The anti-aging activity of tea oil concentrate was assessed by its ability to stimulate the expression and production of dermal matrix markers under standard conditions and under inflammatory stress conditions that model "inflammatory aging."

[0105] Stimulation of gene expression of dermal matrix markers in normal human fibroblasts The effect of tea oil concentrate on the expression of dermal matrix markers was evaluated in cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts.

[0106] material and method Normal human dermal fibroblasts were incubated for 48 hours in the presence of 0.001% and 0.005% tea oil concentrate or 5 ng / mL TGFβ1 as a positive reference for this study.

[0107] Collagen III and fibrillin 1 gene expression was assessed by quantitative real-time PCR.

[0108] The results were statistically analyzed by one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) followed by Dunnett's post-hoc test.

[0109] a. result Tea oil concentrate significantly stimulated gene expression of collagen III and fibrillin 1.

[0110] These results indicate a densification of the dermal matrix for skin anti-aging effects.

[0111] [Table 11]

[0112] Effects in the "Inframaging" model As we age, low-grade, subclinical, chronic inflammation can occur in skin tissues. This is the result of exposure to external stress accumulated over a lifetime. This inflammation leads to the release of inflammatory cytokines (IL1, IL6, TNF, CRP, etc.), which can cause tissue damage and the production of reactive oxygen species, thereby accelerating the skin aging process. Skin aging phenomena associated with this inflammatory process are called "inflammage."

[0113] The tea oil concentrate was evaluated in an in vitro model that mimics the process of "inflammaging," in which inflammation, represented by the stimulation of IL-1α production, is induced in the reconstructed epidermis. Conditioned medium from these reconstructed epidermis is then applied to fibroblasts, and the expression of dermal markers, altered by IL-1α production by the epidermis, is evaluated.

[0114] material and method The reconstructed epidermis was treated topically with a cream containing 1% tea oil concentrate or its placebo, or globally with 1 μM dexamethasone, an anti-inflammatory reference. After 24 hours of preincubation, the epidermis was stimulated with 0.5 μg / mL PMA and incubated again for 24 hours.

[0115] The culture supernatants were collected and, on the one hand, an IL-1α assay was performed, and, on the other hand, these supernatants (cell-conditioned medium) were plated onto cultures of normal human dermal fibroblasts.

[0116] After 24 hours of incubation of fibroblasts in the presence of cell-conditioned medium, expression of markers of interest was assessed by real-time quantitative PCR.

[0117] The results were statistically analyzed using ANOVA followed by Tukey's test.

[0118] result Tea oil concentrate formulated at 1% significantly inhibited PMA-induced IL-1α release in reconstructed epidermis, an effect that was significantly different from placebo.

[0119] Application of cell-conditioned medium to PMA-stimulated fibroblast cultures as reconstructed epidermis induced changes in gene expression of inflammatory markers, oxidative stress, and dermal matrix synthesis and degradation. These results validate the "inflammaging" model.

[0120] Under these conditions, tea oil concentrate modulated the overexpression of cytokines and chemokines (CXCL1, IL8, IL6, CCL2), matrix-degrading enzymes (MMP1, MMP3), and increased the gene expression level of HAS2.

[0121] These results indicate that tea oil concentrate modulates the process of "inflammaging."

[0122] [Table 12]

[0123] [Table 13]

[0124] Activity screening in reconstructed skin material and method A cream containing 1% tea oil concentrate or a placebo was applied to the surface of reconstructed human skin. After 24 hours of incubation, gene expression of markers of interest for dermal benefit was assessed by quantitative real-time PCR.

[0125] The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test.

[0126] result Tea oil concentrate formulated at 1% significantly increased gene expression levels of the markers MKI67 and PSMD1. These effects were significantly different from placebo.

[0127] These two genes are involved in two cellular functions: proliferation for the marker MKI67 and proteasome for the marker PSMD1.

[0128] Senescence is associated with a decrease in cell proliferation. Decreased expression of the marker MKI67 has been observed in senescent cells. Therefore, by increasing the level of MKI67 gene expression, tea oil concentrate can promote cell proliferation, thus exhibiting anti-aging properties.

[0129] PSMD1 is a subunit of the proteasome that plays an important structural role by serving as a docking site for ubiquitinated substrates to await removal. A decrease in this marker has been observed in senescent fibroblasts. A decline in the cell's ability to remove damaged proteins is a marker of aging. By increasing the gene expression level of PSMD1, tea oil concentrate may promote the removal of damaged proteins and exhibit anti-aging potential.

[0130] [Table 14]

[0131] Pro-barrier function material and method A cream containing 1% tea oil concentrate or a placebo was applied to the surface of the reconstructed epidermis. After 24 hours of incubation, gene expression of markers of interest for epidermal benefit was assessed by quantitative real-time PCR.

[0132] The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test.

[0133] result Tea oil concentrate formulated at 1% significantly increased gene expression levels of barrier markers (TJP1, DSC1, LOR, ZNF750, CERS3). These effects were significantly different from placebo, demonstrating the pro-barrier potential of tea oil concentrate.

[0134] [Table 15]

[0135] Within the epidermis, there are different types of cell junctions that ensure connections between keratinocytes: tight junctions, desmosomes, and gap junctions. These different junctions contribute to the skin's barrier function.

[0136] Tight junctions are intercellular junctions that seal keratinocytes together. The TJP1 protein is a marker for tight junctions. TJP1 is involved in regulating the paracellular diffusion of ions and solutes.

[0137] Desmosomes are junctions located between keratinocytes in the basal, spinous, and granular layers. Desmosomes consist of three parts: an intracellular portion, a transmembrane portion, and an extracellular portion. Desmocollin-1 is a component of desmosomes. It is a transmembrane glycoprotein belonging to the cadherin family.

[0138] The loricrin, ZNF50, and CERS3 markers are involved in the formation of the cornified envelope. During keratinization, the plasma membrane of differentiating keratinocytes is replaced by a cornified envelope consisting of covalently linked, insoluble extracellular structural proteins and lipid remodeling, which prevents excessive fluid loss and also provides an effective barrier against pathogens.

[0139] Approximately 80% of the cornified envelope is composed of loricrin.

[0140] Keratinocyte differentiation is stimulated by a number of transcription factors, including several genes encoding components of the cornified envelope and ZNF50, a transcription factor known to regulate terminal differentiation of keratinocytes.

[0141] Ceramides are the main lipids in skin, accounting for approximately 50% by mass of intercellular lipids. Ceramides are involved in the skin's barrier function and moisture retention. Ceramide synthases (CERS) 3 and 4 are predominant in skin.

[0142] Therefore, tea oil concentrate contributes to the pro-barrier effect by significantly increasing the gene expression levels of these different markers.

[0143] Activity in in-vitro models related to skin comfort and well-being Psychological stress has multiple physiological and clinical effects on the skin, leading to a variety of physiological effects (inflammation, impaired barrier function, impaired healing, immunosuppression) and clinical effects (dry / sensitive skin phenotype, redness, irritation, itching, blotches, acne, eczema, etc.).

[0144] There are two major stress response axes: the sympathetic nervous system, which induces the release of neuropeptides (e.g., substance P) and catecholamines, and the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis (HPA axis), which induces the release of cortisol.

[0145] Acute psychological stress can alter the permeability of the skin barrier as well as the integrity of the stratum corneum.

[0146] To evaluate the effects of tea oil concentrate on the biological axis of comfort and well-being, various in vitro stress models related to cortisol and substance P were performed.

[0147] Effect of tea oil concentrate on cortisol release in a skin explant model material and method Skin explants were treated topically with a formulation (cream) containing 1% tea oil concentrate or its placebo, or with 0.001% tea oil concentrate and 1 mM metyrapone (positive control) (in the culture medium). After 24 hours of incubation, the explants were stressed with 0.6 μM ACTH (adrenocorticotropic hormone), a hormone that induces cortisol production. This stress, combined with culturing the explants in a 42°C incubator, promoted increased cortisol production. The explants were again treated with the topical product or with the active ingredient and positive control (in the culture medium). After 24 hours of incubation, the culture medium was collected and subjected to an ELISA assay for cortisol.

[0148] The results were statistically analyzed by Student's t-test.

[0149] result All tea oil concentrates tested in the culture medium reduced cortisol in the explant culture supernatant, and cortisol was induced by ACTH treatment in combination with explant culture in a 42°C incubator.

[0150] Compared to placebo, tea oil concentrate formulated at 1% inhibited cortisol, while placebo increased cortisol release.

[0151] [Table 16]

[0152] [Table 17]

[0153] Effects of tea oil concentrate in an extrinsic / intrinsic stress model related to skin barrier protection Tea oil concentrate was evaluated in a keratinocyte (HaCaT) model stressed with cortisone followed by UVA. UVA stress promotes the conversion of cortisone (an inactive molecule) to cortisol (an active molecule). Cortisol has been shown to alter the skin barrier.

[0154] material and method HaCaT keratinocytes were treated with 0.0005% and 0.001% tea oil concentrate in parallel with 100 nM cortisone treatment. After 24 hours of incubation, cells were exposed to 3 J / cm 2 Cell lysates were collected immediately after irradiation for analysis of carbonylated proteins by immunostaining or 6 h after irradiation for analysis of barrier and inflammatory markers by RT-qPCR.

[0155] The results were statistically analyzed by ANOVA followed by Dunnett's test.

[0156] result Cortisone stress combined with UVA radiation increased the gene expression levels of IL-1α, reflecting the activation of inflammation. This stress also increased the amount of carbonylated proteins. This stress also inhibited the gene expression levels of barrier markers (loricrin, filaggrin, and keratin 10), indicating the adverse effects of cortisol on the skin barrier.

[0157] Tea oil concentrate demonstrated pro-barrier protective effects by increasing filaggrin, loricrin, and keratin 10, markers inhibited by cortisol / UVA stress. Tea oil concentrate also demonstrated anti-inflammatory effects on IL1a (gene expression) and reduced the amount of stress-induced protein carbonyls (damaged proteins).

[0158] This latter result can be correlated with the results observed in the activity screening on reconstructed skin, where the tea oil concentrate significantly increased the gene expression levels of the PSMD1 marker (26S proteasome non-ATPase regulatory subunit 1), a proteasome marker involved in the degradation of damaged proteins.

[0159] [Table 18]

[0160] [Table 19]

[0161] Effects of tea oil concentrate on a cortisol stress model affecting the skin barrier This was tested in a skin explant model in which the barrier was weakened by tape stripping and then stressed with cortisol, which damages the skin barrier and delays its repair.

[0162] material and method The stratum corneum of skin explants was altered by tape stripping followed by 0.001% cortisol stress. After 6 hours of incubation, the surface of the explants was treated with a preparation (cream) containing 1% tea oil concentrate or its placebo. 24 hours after the first application (D1), the explants were again treated with cortisol, and then 6 hours later with the product. These treatments (cortisol + 6 hours of product) were repeated a total of 5 times (D0-D4). 24 hours after the last treatment (D5), the explants were collected and marked differently: Hematoxylin / eosin marking for analysis of stratum corneum thickness, Safranin-O-Red marking for the analysis of the number of layers of the stratum corneum, Lucifer Yellow marking for analysis of skin barrier integrity.

[0163] Results were statistically analyzed using ANOVA followed by Tukey's or Dunnett's test.

[0164] result Alterations to the stratum corneum by tape stripping followed by repeated treatment with cortisol over several days significantly reduced stratum corneum thickness and skin barrier integrity.

[0165] The tea oil concentrate tested at 1% against placebo showed significant efficacy on stratum corneum thickness and number of stratum corneum layers (histological markings), which were greater in the active-treated condition, as well as on skin barrier integrity (Lucifer Yellow marker penetration).

[0166] Thus, the tea oil concentrate promotes skin barrier repair and protects against psychological stress that alters skin barrier repair.

[0167] [Table 20]

[0168] [Table 21]

[0169] [Table 22]

[0170] These different results show that tea oil concentrate is of great interest in the comfort of dry and sensitive skin, which can be caused and amplified by psychological stress.

[0171] Effect of tea oil concentrate in a reinnervated epidermis model material and method Human iPS cells (induced pluripotent stem cells) were differentiated into sensory neurons in culture inserts. A collagen gel was then applied to the sensory neurons. After 3 weeks of culture, explanted epidermis, dissociated from the dermis by dispase treatment, was placed on top of the collagen gel. This model was cultured for 5 days, allowing time for reinnervation of the epidermis by sensory neurons. The epidermis was then topically treated with 0.5% and 1% tea oil concentrate in paraffin. After 24 hours of incubation, the epidermis was topically treated with 10% lactic acid for 15 minutes. The culture medium was then collected and subjected to an ELISA assay for substance P.

[0172] The results were statistically analyzed using the Mann-Whitney U test.

[0173] b. result Tea oil concentrate tested at 0.5% and 1% significantly inhibits the release of substance P, a neuropeptide involved in lactic acid-induced pain perception, in a reinnervated epidermis model.

[0174] Tea oil concentrates are therefore of interest for their comfort for sensitive skin.

[0175] [Table 23]

[0176] By reducing the release of cortisol and substance P and protecting the skin from the harmful effects of cortisol, tea oil concentrate provides a feeling of comfort and well-being to dry and sensitive skin.

[0177] Example 3: In vivo biological activity test of the extract according to the present invention Concept and Protocol concept People with dry and / or sensitive skin experience skin symptoms (e.g., stinging, tightness), which negatively impact skin comfort and well-being, leading to psychological conditions such as stress or a negative emotional state, which can also reduce quality of life. This creates a vicious cycle, where psychological stress itself can become a cause of skin problems (Farage, 2022).

[0178] The interest of cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in this regard lies in their ability to act on the symptoms associated with dry and / or sensitive skin, reduce the negative impact that skin discomfort and quality of life have on people's psychological state, and improve their emotional state and sense of well-being.

[0179] Protocol the purpose The aim of this study is to evaluate the efficacy and emotional benefits of an extract according to the invention compared to placebo in people expressing psychological discomfort / stress / moodiness due to dry and / or sensitive skin.

[0180] product The extract tested is the concentrate obtained from Example 1. The active ingredient is formulated with a 1% tea oil concentrate. Details of the composition are given in the table below.

[0181] [Table 24]

[0182] c. parameter Apply to face and body twice daily (morning and evening) for 28 days (assessed on face). A double-blind, randomized controlled trial comparing active ingredient (n=22, dry skin 18 / sensitive skin 19, 51.3±14.7 years old [19-70]) and placebo (n=22, dry skin 19 / sensitive skin 20, 45.3±13.8 years old [23-68]). Healthy female subjects aged 18 years or older (without skin or other unstable lesions that may interfere with the study and asymptomatic during exploratory evaluation) - Phototype I-IV (Caucasian). Subjects with dry and / or sensitive skin types (with functional and / or clinical signs) on the face (even distribution of dry and sensitive skin). Subjects expressing psychological discomfort / stress / irritability due to dry and / or sensitive skin. ·Assessed using a combination of clinical assessment, subjective questionnaire assessment, and objective physiological measures.

[0183] result Skin sensitivity ("sensitivity scale") The "sensitivity scale" described in the literature allows for the assessment of the overall degree of skin irritation and the severity of the skin condition (Misery et al., 2014). This scale consists of 10 items corresponding to felt (8 items) or obvious (2 items) symptoms associated with skin discomfort: tingling, burning, warmth, tightness, itching, pain, general discomfort, flushing, redness, and scaling.

[0184] Subjects can rate the intensity of each parameter from 0 to 10.

[0185] For each of the 10 parameters, the improvement is significant between T0 and T28 for the active ingredient, but only for 6 parameters for the placebo (see Figure 1).

[0186] The active ingredient shows significantly improved results compared to placebo. Indeed, the following three parameters: tingling, burning and itching are at the threshold of p<0.05. Furthermore, the following three parameters: warmth, tightness and general discomfort as well as the total score are at the threshold of p<0.1 (see Figure 2).

[0187] Prosody and cardiac coherence Prosody corresponds to the emotional content of the voice and can be assessed by examining the vocal spectrum, revealing changes in several parameters. Vocal stress load was quantified using algorithmic processing.

[0188] The active ingredient significantly reduced vocal stress after 28 days, with progress significantly better than that of placebo (see Figure 3).

[0189] Heart rate variability (HRV) is a heart rate index of the interaction between the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems of the autonomic nervous system (ANS). Small fluctuations in HRV are one of the most stable parameters of a subject's emotional tension, and therefore it is often used in psychosocial studies of stress. Stress and negative emotions are well known to disrupt cardiac coherence and induce irregularities in the HRV signal. Therefore, a positive mood increases the HRV index value.

[0190] The active ingredient significantly increased HRV cardiac coherence after 28 days, significantly improving the difference from placebo (see Figure 4).

[0191] Galvanic skin response The electrodermal response (EDR) corresponds to the change in skin resistance when an electric current is applied. This response occurs after sensory or emotional arousal. This change in skin resistance is the result of physiological changes that are involuntary or imperceptible to the naked eye. These autonomic nervous system changes are the result of activation of the sympathetic nervous system. Indeed, after psychological (i.e., emotional) arousal, increased sweat gland activity results in increased skin conductance and a very rapid EDR. This response occurs primarily in the sole and palmar areas. Sweat glands are controlled by the sympathetic nervous system via fibers in the cholinergic ganglia. Thus, the electrodermal response can be used as a physiological sign of emotional arousal.

[0192] In this study, a technician blindfolded the subject after connecting electrodes for electrodermal response (EDR) to the subject's fingers. A thermal stimulus-inducing patch was then placed on the subject's cheek, and heating was initiated. After a two-minute rest period to allow parameters to stabilize, the technician heated the patch for 30 seconds, delivering the thermal stimulus and recording the electrodermal response (EDR). Finally, the technician removed the patch from the subject's cheek (the subject could not see the patch).

[0193] Both the active ingredient and placebo significantly reduced the electrodermal response after 28 days of heat stimulation, with the progress with the active ingredient being significantly better than that of the placebo (see Figure 5).

[0194] Example 4: In vivo biological activity test of the extract according to the present invention Concept and Protocol 2) concept The aim of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness and benefit of active ingredients for skin conditions compared to placebo in people with dry and / or sensitive skin conditions.

[0195] The skin barrier plays a role in regulating the skin's moisture balance. When the skin barrier is damaged, the regulation of moisture exchange is disrupted. This allows moisture to easily move into the external environment, resulting in an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). On the other hand, if the condition of the skin barrier is improved, moisture exchange is properly regulated, and moisture loss decreases.

[0196] Protocol the purpose The aim of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness and benefit of active ingredients for skin conditions compared to placebo in people with dry and / or sensitive skin.

[0197] product The extract tested is the concentrate obtained from Example 1. The active ingredient is formulated with a 1% tea oil concentrate. Details of the composition are given in the table below.

[0198] [Table 25]

[0199] parameter Apply to face and body twice daily (morning and evening) for 28 days (assessed on face). A double-blind, randomized controlled trial comparing active ingredient (n=24, 19 visibly dry skin / 23 sensitive skin, 50.0±16.7 years old [24-71]) and placebo (n=24, 22 visibly dry skin / 22 sensitive skin, 54.2±16.8 years old [24-74]). Healthy female subjects aged 18 years or older (without skin or other unstable lesions that may interfere with the study and asymptomatic during exploratory evaluation) - Phototype I-IV (Caucasian). At least 50% of subjects had visible dry skin on the face and at least 50% had sensitive skin with at least two stresses, one clinical sign and one subjective sign (assessed according to the questionnaire in the literature: Boyer et al., 2021). Subjects experiencing tingling and / or warmth, burning and / or itching. Subjects reporting skin discomfort of 4 or more out of 10. Evaluation: Transepidermal water loss measurements were performed using a Tewameter™ 300®. A stream of water vapor is passed through a probe consisting of two sensors. The partial pressure difference between the two sensors is measured. This value corresponds to the evaporation rate of the volatile substance (in this case, water).

[0200] Water content and barrier function results Water content is significantly improved with both the active ingredient and the placebo. The skin barrier, as assessed by TEWL, is significantly improved with the active ingredient versus placebo (see Figure 6). The difference between the active ingredient and placebo is significant in favor of the active ingredient (Δ% (Δactive ingredient / Δplacebo) = -34.8%, p < 0.05 (Mann-Whitney test). References

[0201] JPEG2026505499000026.jpg128167

Claims

1. 1. A lipid extract of tea oil, characterized in that it is Camellia oleifera tea oil enriched in the unsaponifiable fraction, containing 1.5 to 100% by weight, preferably 1.8 to 80% by weight, preferentially 2 to 60% by weight of unsaponifiable matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

2. 2. The extract according to claim 1, wherein the lipid extract has a sterol content higher than 1.5% by weight, preferably higher than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the extract.

3. 3. The extract according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the lipid extract comprises preferably 10 to 50% by weight, preferentially 15 to 40% by weight, more preferentially 15 to 35% by weight of β-amyrin and Δ5-avenasterol relative to the total weight of sterols and / or lupeol, and preferably 10 to 50% by weight, preferentially 15 to 40% by weight, more preferentially 15 to 35% by weight of Δ7-stigmasterol relative to the total weight of sterols.

4. A method for preparing the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising the following series of steps: a) Molecular distillation of crude or refined oil of Camellia oleifera tea; b) extraction of unsaponifiable matter, if applicable; c) recovery of the concentrated unsaponifiable oil obtained after step a) or the unsaponifiable matter obtained after step b), and d) Optionally, a deodorizing and / or decolorizing step for the concentrated unsaponifiable oil or unsaponifiable matter. The method comprising:

5. Step b) comprises the following series of steps: i. saponifying the concentrated tea oil obtained after step a) into its unsaponifiable fraction; ii. Thereafter, extracting the unsaponifiable matter using a suitable solvent such as ethyl acetate and hexane.

5. The method of claim 4, comprising:

6. A composition comprising as an active ingredient a lipid extract of Camellia oleifera tea oil according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and suitable excipients.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 6, comprising from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight of said lipid extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to claim 6 or 7, or an extract obtainable by the method according to claim 4 or 5, or an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for use in a dermatological composition, a pharmaceutical composition, a functional food composition or as a food supplement.

9. 9. A composition or extract as claimed in claim 8 for use in the prevention and / or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or appendages, advantageously disorders associated with endogenous or exogenous stress, such as inflammatory reactions, psychological stress, stress associated with anxiety states, stress associated with radical attacks whether or not related to chemical or air pollution, and / or stress associated with exposure to UV or IR, barrier or homeostasis disorders, photosensitive skin, mechanical and / or thermal attacks, or for use as a healing agent.

10. 10. The composition or extract according to claim 9 for use in the prevention and / or treatment of dry skin, xerosis, sensitive skin and irritation.

11. 10. The composition or extract according to claim 9 for use in the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or conditions selected from the group consisting of superficial scars, chapped lips and cheilitis, stretch marks, skin after bites, skin abrasions, age spots and / or skin scabs, and fragile sensitive skin, advantageously fragile sensitive skin.

12. Cosmetic use of an extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, or an extract obtainable by the method according to claim 4 or 5, or a composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7, in a form suitable for topical or oral administration, for the purpose of improving the condition and / or appearance of healthy skin and / or healthy appendages and / or healthy mucous membranes, advantageously for the purpose of improving the firmness, elasticity or tone of healthy skin, and / or for the purpose of improving skin comfort.

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