Stable compositions containing specific combinations of ingredients
A composition with cinnamic acid derivatives, lipophilic antioxidants, and encapsulation in oil and polysaccharides at pH 4.5 or less addresses instability issues, ensuring stability and preventing discoloration and malodor in cosmetic products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2019226592
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2019-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-14
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-12-16
AI Technical Summary
Cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ferulic acid, are unstable under certain conditions, leading to discoloration, crystallization, and malodor in cosmetic compositions due to pH and temperature variations, with existing techniques insufficient to address these issues effectively.
A composition comprising a cinnamic acid derivative, a lipophilic antioxidant, and water, with a pH of 4.5 or less, stabilized by a combination of oil and polysaccharide encapsulation, ensuring stability at various temperatures.
The composition maintains stability over time, preventing discoloration, crystallization, and malodor, providing a stable cosmetic effect.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to compositions, preferably cosmetic or dermatological compositions, comprising a particular combination of ingredients. [Background technology]
[0002] Cinnamic acid and its derivatives, such as ferulic acid, are known to be useful, for example, in the cosmetic field, because they can function as UV filters, antioxidants, etc. However, they tend to be unstable under some conditions. For example, ferulic acid is soluble in water under alkaline conditions, but aqueous solutions of ferulic acid can rapidly discolor (yellowing) and emit a foul odor.
[0003] Cinnamic acid and its derivatives also have the problem that they tend to discolor, crystallize, and emit bad odor in cosmetic compositions, which is caused not only by pH but also by temperature (storage) conditions.However, there has been insufficient research on the technology that effectively prevents discoloration, crystallization, and bad odor of compositions containing cinnamic acid and its derivatives. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0004] [Patent Document 1] French Patent No. 2608150 [Patent Document 2] French Patent No. 2699818 [Patent Document 3] French Patent No. 2706478 [Patent Document 4] French Patent No. 2907339 [Patent Document 5] French Patent No. 2814943 [Patent Document 6] French Patent No. 2873026 [Patent Document 7] U.S. Patent No. 4,698,360 [Patent Document 8] U.S. Patent No. 6,372,266 [Patent Document 9] U.S. Patent No. 5,720,956 [Patent Document 10] French Patent No. 2908769 [Patent Document 11] French Patent No. 2704754 [Patent Document 12] French Patent No. 2877004 [Patent Document 13] French Patent No. 2854160 [Patent Document 14] EP0511118 [Patent Document 15] WO94 / 11338 [Patent Document 16] French Patent No. 2698095 [Patent Document 17] French Patent No. 2737205 [Patent Document 18] EP0755925 [Patent Document 19] French Patent No. 2825920 [Patent Document 20] French Patent No. 0853634 [Patent Document 21] EP-A-0955039 [Patent Document 22] U.S. Patent No. 2004 175338 [Non-patent literature]
[0005] [Non-Patent Document 1] CM Hansen, paper "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol, vol. 39, p. 105 (1967) [Non-Patent Document 2] Meylan and Howard, paper, Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm.Sci., 84: pp. 83-92, 1995. [Non-Patent Document 3] Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995) Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0006] It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition that is stable under various temperature conditions, even when the composition contains a cinnamic acid derivative, such as ferulic acid, and water. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] The above object of the present invention is to (a) Chemical formula (I):
[0008] [ka]
[0009] [In the formula, A is, OR 3 group (in the formula, R 3 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 an alkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion; and NHR 4 group (in the formula, R 4 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 alkyl groups) Selected from R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, C 1 ~C 6 Alkoxy group, linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 selected from alkyl groups, R 2 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and C 1 ~C 6 alkoxy groups] At least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant; (c) at least one oil, and (d) water Including, This can be achieved by the composition having a pH of 4.5 or less.
[0010] The (a) cinnamic acid derivative may be ferulic acid.
[0011] The amount of (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 8% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 4% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0012] (b) The lipophilic antioxidant may be selected from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
[0013] The amount of the (b) lipophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0014] It is preferred that the (a) cinnamic acid derivative is soluble in the (c) oil.
[0015] (c) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, bisethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0016] The amount of the (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 30% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0017] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 50% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 85% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0018] The composition according to the invention may further comprise (e) at least one polysaccharide, preferably selected from polysaccharides of plant origin, more preferably selected from an algae extract.
[0019] (e) The polysaccharide may be selected from agar, alginate, carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.
[0020] The (e) polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.01% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0021] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of O / W, preferably an O / W emulsion or an O / W dispersion, more preferably an O / W gel emulsion or an O / W gel dispersion.
[0022] The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin materials, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0024] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition that is stable under various temperature conditions, even when the composition contains a cinnamic acid derivative such as ferulic acid and water.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 4.5 or less, at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to formula (I) above, at least one lipophilic antioxidant; At least one oil, and water It can be characterized by a combination of:
[0026] Therefore, one aspect of the present invention is (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to formula (I) above; (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant, and (c) at least one oil; (d) water and having a pH of 4.5 or less.
[0027] The composition according to the present invention is stable under various temperature conditions, so the term "stable" as used herein reflects temperature stability and means that the appearance of the composition does not change over time at various constant temperatures such as 4°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 45°C.
[0028] The compositions according to the invention are stable and therefore are unlikely to cause any or very little discoloration, e.g. yellowing, crystallization and unpleasant odors over extended periods of time.
[0029] The composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time since it is not likely to cause any or only slight changes such as yellowing, crystallization and unpleasant odor.
[0030] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a cosmetic effect that is stable over time based on the cinnamic acid derivative in the composition.
[0031] Hereinafter, the compositions according to the invention will be described in more detail.
[0032] [Cinnamic acid derivatives] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cinnamic acid derivative (a) having a specific chemical structure. Two or more cinnamic acid derivatives (a) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cinnamic acid derivative or a combination of different types of cinnamic acid derivatives may be used.
[0033] (a) Cinnamic acid derivatives have the chemical formula (I):
[0034] [ka]
[0035] [In the formula, A is, OR 3 group (in the formula, R 3 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, a linear or branched C 1 ~C 18Alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 an alkyl group, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, and an ammonium ion; and NHR 4 group (in the formula, R 4 is a hydrogen atom, a phytyl group, a benzyl group, and a linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 alkyl groups) Selected from R 1 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, C 1 ~C 6 Alkoxy group, linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 Alkyl group, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl groups, C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 selected from alkyl groups, R 2 is a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group and C 1 ~C 6 alkoxy groups] It is expressed by:
[0036] Linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 The alkyl group is preferably C 1 ~C 12 As the alkyl group, C is more preferable. 1 ~C 6Examples of the alkyl group include a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an i-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an i-butyl group, a sec-butyl group, a tert-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an i-pentyl group, a 1-ethylpropyl group, a hexyl group, an isohexyl group, and a 1-ethylbutyl group.
[0037] C 3 ~C 8 Examples of the cycloalkyl group include a cyclopropyl group, a cyclobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group, and a cyclohexyl group.
[0038] C 3 ~C 8 Cycloalkyl-C 1 ~C 5 Examples of the alkyl group include a cyclopropylmethyl group, a cyclobutylmethyl group, a cyclopentylmethyl group, and a cyclohexylmethyl group.
[0039] C 1 ~C 6 Examples of alkoxy groups include methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, i-propoxy, n-butoxy, i-butoxy, sec-butoxy, tert-butoxy, n-pentyloxy, i-pentyloxy, 1-ethylpropoxy, hexyloxy, isohexyloxy, and 1-ethylbutoxy groups. Methoxy groups are preferred.
[0040] R 1 is a hydroxyl group, and R 2 However, hydroxyl groups and C 1 ~C 6 In some cases it may be preferred to select from alkoxy groups, more preferably from methoxy groups.
[0041] (a) Examples of cinnamic acid derivatives include 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methoxycinnamate, caffeic acid, and ferulic acid. Caffeic acid and ferulic acid may be preferred, and ferulic acid may be more preferred.
[0042] The (a) cinnamic acid derivative may be an active ingredient or active compound in cosmetic or dermatological products. The term "active" compound as used herein means a compound having cosmetic or dermatological active properties, such as antioxidant activity, whitening activity and UV blocking activity. Preferably, the (a) cinnamic acid derivative used in the present invention may be a UV blocking agent, so that the composition according to the present invention can be used as a UV protection product or as a cosmetic composition for protecting keratinous materials such as skin from UV rays.
[0043] The amount of the (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the composition according to the present invention is 0.2% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0044] On the other hand, the amount of (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the composition according to the present invention may be 8% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.It may be even more preferable that the amount of (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0045] The amount of the cinnamic acid derivative (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 8% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 4% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the cinnamic acid derivative (a) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.2% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0046] [Lipophilic antioxidant] The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant. A single type of lipophilic antioxidant may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic antioxidants may also be used in combination.
[0047] According to the present invention, antioxidants are compounds or substances capable of scavenging the various radical forms that may be present in the skin, preferably they simultaneously scavenge all the various radical forms present.
[0048] (b) The lipophilic antioxidant is different from (a) the cinnamic acid derivative according to formula (I) above.
[0049] The antioxidant may include phenolic antioxidants having a hindered phenol structure or a semi-hindered phenol structure in the molecule. Specific examples of such compounds include the following: 3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid (INCI name is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate), 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(α-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2'-methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, tris[N-(3,5-di-tert-butyl butylidene-1,1 bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate]methane, triethylene glycol bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-1,1-dimethylethyl}-2,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro[5.5]undecane, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylene bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylene bis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], 1,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)- 6-(4-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butylanilino)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-tert-butyl-6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl acrylate, 2-[1-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4,6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate and 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate].
[0050] Antioxidants that may be mentioned include: BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxyl toluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienols) and derivatives thereof, such as the phosphate derivatives, e.g. TPNA® sold by Showa Denko KK, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids, such as lutein, astaxanthin, β-carotene, polyphenols, phenolic acids and derivatives (e.g. chlorogenic acid), and flavonoids, which represent a major subgroup of polyphenols.
[0051] Among flavonoids, particular mention may be made of chalcones, hydroxylated chalcones and their reduced derivatives (especially those described in French Patent No. 2608150), such as phloretin, neohesperidin, phloridzin, aspalathin, etc., flavanones, such as hesperetin and naringin, flavonols, such as quercetin, rutin, flavanols, such as catechin, EGCG, flavones, such as apigenidin, and finally anthocyans.Furthermore, particular mention may be made of tannins.Furthermore, reference may be made to the compounds described in French Patent No. 2699818, French Patent No. 2706478, French Patent No. 2907339, French Patent No. 2814943 and French Patent No. 2873026.
[0052] The polyphenolic compounds may in particular be derived from plant extracts selected from green tea, apple, hops, guava, cocoa, or extracts of trees such as chestnut, oak, horse chestnut or hazel. It is also possible to use an extract of maritime pine bark, obtained for example according to the methods described in US Patent No. 4,698,360, US Patent No. 6,372,266 and US Patent No. 5,720,956. As an example of such an extract, one may cite the compound referred to under the INCI name Pinus pinaster (bark extract) and the CTFA name Pinus pinaster bark extract. It may in particular be the extract of maritime pine bark marketed under the reference PYCNOGENOL® by the BIOLANDES AROMES firm and / or HORPHAG Research. There may also be mentioned pine bark extract (Maritime) from LAYN Natural Ingredients, Pine Bark from Blue California and also Oligopin® from DRT (Les Derives Resiniques et Terpeniques).
[0053] In the context of the present invention, the term "polyphenolic compounds" thus also encompasses the plant extracts themselves which are rich in these polyphenolic compounds.
[0054] Antioxidants which may furthermore be mentioned include dithiolanes, such as asparagusic acid or its derivatives, such as siliceous dithiolane derivatives, in particular those described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 908 769.
[0055] Further antioxidants that may be mentioned are: Glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and / or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (such as those described in French Patents No. 2704754 and No. 2908769); Cysteine and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. Reference may also be made to the cysteine derivatives described in French patents FR 2 877 004 and FR 2 854 160, Specific enzymes to protect against oxidative stress, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductase; benzylcyclanones, substituted naphthalenones, pidolates (in particular those described in patent application EP 0511118), caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma-oryzanol, melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing same (except watercress), diisopropyl esters with N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, as described in particular in patent applications WO 94 / 11338, in French patent FR 2 698 095, in French patent FR 2 737 205 or in EP 0 755 925; Deferoxamine (or Desferal), described in French Patent No. 2825920.
[0056] The antioxidants preferably used are chalcones, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, the ester of diisopropyl with N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, or an extract of maritime pine bark, such as PYCNOGENOL®.
[0057] (b) Lipophilic antioxidant means that the antioxidant has a partition coefficient between n-butanol and water of >1, more preferably >10, and even more preferably >100.
[0058] (b) Examples of lipophilic antioxidants include pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, ascorbyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] (b) The lipophilic antioxidant is preferably selected from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] The amount of the lipophilic antioxidant (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferred that the amount of the lipophilic antioxidant (b) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.02% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0061] On the other hand, the amount of (b) lipophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferred that the amount of (b) lipophilic antioxidant in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0062] The amount of the lipophilic antioxidant (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.01% by mass to 2% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the lipophilic antioxidant (b) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.02% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0063] [oil] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil (c). Two or more oils (c) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0064] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil, any oil commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0065] It is preferred that the (a) cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) is soluble in the (c) oil, in other words, it is preferred to use the (c) oil in which the (a) cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) is soluble.
[0066] The solubility of the (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the (c) oil is preferably 0.5% or more, more preferably 0.7% or more, and even more preferably 0.9% or more at room temperature (20 to 25°C, preferably 25°C). The solubility of the (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the (c) oil may be preferably 25% or less, more preferably 20% or less, and even more preferably 15% or less at room temperature (20 to 25°C, preferably 25°C). Therefore, the solubility of the (a) cinnamic acid derivative in the (c) oil may be 0.5% to 25%, preferably 0.7% to 20%, and more preferably 0.9% to 15%. In this specification, the solubility means the amount (g) of the (a) cinnamic acid derivative soluble in 100 g of the (c) oil.
[0067] It is preferred that the (c) oil is selected from polar oils.
[0068] The term "polar oil" as used herein refers to a polar oil having a solubility parameter δ d is greater than 16, and the solubility parameter δ p The solubility parameter δ is strictly greater than 0. d and δ p is defined according to the Hansen classification.
[0069] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).
[0070] According to this Hansen space, δ D characterizes the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles, δ h characterizes a particular interaction force (e.g., hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) δ a is the equation δ a =(δ p 2 +δ h 1 ) 1 / 2 It is determined by the parameter δ p , δ h , δ d and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:
[0071] It may be preferred that the polar oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable or animal oils, such as triglycerides, ester oils, ether oils, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of ester oils, ether oils, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from ester oils.
[0072] The polar oil may in particular be chosen from the following oils: - polar oils of the hydrocarbon type, such as phytostearyl esters, for example phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and phytostearyl lauroyl / octyldodecyl / glutamate (Ajinomoto Co., Eldew PS203), triglycerides of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular fatty acids of the C 4 ~C 36 , especially C 18 ~C 36 These oils may have chain lengths in the range of 0.1 to 100% by weight, optionally linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, mallow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui nut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as Stearineries. those sold by the company Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - hydrocarbon esters of the formula RCOOR', where RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, stearic acid or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoic acid esters, especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoic, decanoic or ricinoleic acid alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoic acid and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate and mixtures thereof, benzoic acid C 12 ~C 15 alcohol, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate and myristyl myristate; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in French Patent No. 0 853 634, in particular polyesters obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid with 1,4-butanediol, for example. As regards these polymers, mention may in particular be made of the polymer sold under the name Viscoplast 14436H by the company Biosynthis (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols with dimerized diacids and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, e.g. dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; - fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol; - C 12 ~C 22 Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; - fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid; dialkyl carbonates, in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis, - non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example between 400 and 10 000 g / mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g / mol, such as, for example: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 (MW=7300 g / mol) sold or manufactured by ISP Japan Co., Ltd.; ii) Esters, for example a) Linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697.05 g / mol); b) Hydroxylated esters, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW=965.58 g / mol); c) Aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757.19 g / mol), C 12 ~C 15 Alcohol benzoates, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyloctyl salicylate, d) C 24 ~C 28Esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0955039, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697.05 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW=891.51 g / mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232.04 g / mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1538.66 g / mol), e) esters and polyesters of dimer diols with mono- or dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of dimer diols with fatty acids and esters of dimer diols with dimer dicarboxylic acids, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by Nippon Fine Chemicals Co., Ltd. and described in US Pat. No. 2004 175338, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference; - and mixtures thereof.
[0073] The term "hydrocarbon-based polar oil" as used herein means a polar oil essentially formed or composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0074] It is preferred that the (c) oil has a logP value of 7.0 or less, more preferably 6.5 or less, and even more preferably 6.0 or less. It may be preferred that the (c) oil has a logP value of 1.0 or more, more preferably 1.5 or more, and even more preferably 2.0 or more. Therefore, it may be preferred that the (c) oil has a logP value of 1.0 to 7.0, more preferably 1.5 to 6.5, and even more preferably 2.0 to 6.0.
[0075] The logP value is the logarithm to the base 10 of the apparent partition coefficient of octan-1-ol / water. The logP value is known and determined by standard tests to determine the concentration of (c) oil in octan-1-ol and water. The logP can be calculated according to the method described in Meylan and Howard, Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm.Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may be calculated using many commercially available software packages that determine logP as a function of molecular structure. An example is the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Protection Agency.
[0076] This value may be calculated, in particular, using ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris software V4.67, and this value can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also an internet site that provides estimated values (address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).
[0077] (c) The oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of amide bonds, ester bonds, and mixtures thereof. An amide bond, as used herein, is defined as -CONR-, where R is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 ~C 18 An amide bond is herein defined as an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group, and an ester bond is herein defined as -COO-. In other words, the (c) oil may have two or more amide bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one amide bond and at least one ester bond.
[0078] (c) oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of ether bonds, ester bonds, and mixtures thereof. An ether bond, as used herein, means -O-, and an ester bond, as used herein, means -COO-. In other words, (c) oil may have two or more ether bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one ether bond and at least one ester bond.
[0079] It is preferred that the (c) oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, bisethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] The amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferred that the amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention is 3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0081] On the other hand, the amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention is 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0082] The amount of the (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (c) oil in the composition according to the present invention is 3% by mass to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0083] In the composition according to the present invention, the mass ratio of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by the above formula (I) / (c) at least one oil may be preferably less than 0.1, more preferably less than 0.09, more preferably less than 0.85. If this mass ratio is 0.1 or more, the stability of the composition may be deteriorated, because crystallization may occur at a relatively low temperature.
[0084] (c) The oil may form the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0085] When the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W type, the oil (c) in the composition according to the present invention can form a fatty phase dispersed in the O / W type composition.
[0086] [water] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0087] (d) Water may form the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0088] When the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W type, (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can form a continuous aqueous phase in the O / W type composition.
[0089] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, and more preferably 70% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0090] On the other hand, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by mass or less, preferably 85% by mass or less, and more preferably 80% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0091] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 50% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 85% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0092] [Polysaccharide] The composition according to the invention may comprise (e) at least one polysaccharide. A single type of polysaccharide may be used, but two or more different types of polysaccharides may also be used in combination.
[0093] (e) at least one polysaccharide can form capsules that can encapsulate (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I), preferably together with (c) at least one oil, more preferably together with (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant and (c) at least one oil. The encapsulation of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) can further reduce the yellowing or bad odor of the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, the capsules can further enhance the stability of the composition according to the present invention.
[0094] The capsule of (e) at least one polysaccharide containing (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) can be prepared by surrounding or coating (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) with at least one layer or film of (e) at least one polysaccharide. It is preferred that the mixture of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) and (c) at least one oil is surrounded or coated by (e) at least one polysaccharide. It is more preferred that the mixture of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I), (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant, and (c) at least one oil is surrounded or coated by (e) at least one polysaccharide. It is even more preferred that (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to formula (I) above is dissolved in (c) at least one oil, and then (c) at least one oil is surrounded or coated by (e) at least one polysaccharide. (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant may also be dissolved in (c) at least one oil.
[0095] The surrounding step can be carried out by any conventional method. For example, (i) a mixture of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative according to the above formula (I) and (c) at least one oil can be co-extruded with (ii)(e) polysaccharide. In this case, the co-extruded (i) mixture can form the core, while (ii)(e) polysaccharide can form the shell. The co-extruded core / shell structure can be transformed into core / shell particles corresponding to capsules. The above (i) mixture can also include (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant.
[0096] The shape of the capsule is not limited. For example, the capsule may be in the shape of a sphere.
[0097] The size of the capsule is not limited. The size or diameter of the capsule can be 0.1 to 10 mm, preferably 0.5 to 5 mm, and more preferably 1 to 3 mm.
[0098] Capsules may be dispersed and suspended in compositions according to the present invention. Capsules may impart a unique appearance to compositions according to the present invention.
[0099] It is preferred that the (e) polysaccharide is selected from plant-derived polysaccharides, in other words, it is preferred that the (e) polysaccharide is of plant origin.
[0100] On the other hand, it is also preferred that the (e) polysaccharide is not selected from cellulose and its derivatives.
[0101] According to the invention, the term "polysaccharides of plant origin" specifically refers to polysaccharides obtained from the Plant Kingdom (plants or algae), as opposed to polysaccharides obtained via biotechnology, such as xanthan gum produced by bacterial fermentation, in particular Xanthomonas campestris.
[0102] Examples of polysaccharides of plant origin that may be used according to the invention include in particular: a) algae extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned are Satiaguum UTC 30® and UTC 10® from the company Degussa, and an alginate that may be mentioned is sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, gum ghatti, gum karaya or locust bean gum, examples which may be mentioned are the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia, the mannan sold by the company GfN and the Konjac gum® (1% glucomannan); c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained from cereals, such as wheat, corn or rice, those obtained from legumes, such as blonde pea, those obtained from tubers, such as potato or cassava, and tapioca starch, dextrins, such as corn dextrin, examples which may be mentioned in particular are the rice starch Remy DR I® sold by the company Remy, corn starch B® from the company Roquette, potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch, and the indigenous tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch, d) dextrins, such as dextrins extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch, and A mixture of these.
[0103] Preferably, (e) the polysaccharide is selected from an algae extract.
[0104] The algae extract may be selected from alginate, carrageenan and agar, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginate or agar, or mixtures thereof, may be used.
[0105] The amount of the polysaccharide (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferred that the amount of the polysaccharide (e) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.03% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0106] On the other hand, the amount of polysaccharide (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferred that the amount of polysaccharide (e) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0107] The amount of the polysaccharide (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.001% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.005% by mass to 2% by mass, more preferably 0.01% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the polysaccharide (e) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.03% by mass to 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0108] [pH] The pH of the composition according to the present invention is 4.5 or less, preferably 4.4 or less, more preferably 4.3 or less. The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3.0 to 4.5, preferably 3.5 to 4.5, more preferably 4.0 to 4.5.
[0109] At a pH below 4.5, the compositions according to the invention are stable.
[0110] The pH of the composition means the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention. In particular, the pH of the composition means the pH of the (d) water in the composition according to the present invention.
[0111] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted by adding at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basifying agent (alkaline agent).
[0112] The acidifying agent may be, for example, a mineral or organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, a carboxylic acid, such as tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, or a sulfonic acid.
[0113] The acidifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] The basifying agent, i.e. the alkaline agent, may be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agent commonly used in cosmetics, such as ammonia; alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; metal hydroxides, such as alkali metal hydroxides (e.g. sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide); urea, guanidine, and derivatives thereof; and amines having the structure:
[0115] [ka]
[0116] (In the formula, R is optionally hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 R represents an alkylene such as propylene substituted with an alkyl group. 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or C 1 ~C 4 (In some cases, an alkali metal hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide is preferred.) The diamine may be a diamine such as those described in
[0117] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-miscible solvent, such as a lower monoalcohol containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, C 3 ~C 4 Ketone or C 3 ~C 4 It may contain an aldehyde. A water-miscible solvent that can be preferably used is ethanol. The content of water-miscible solvent can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] It is routine for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amounts of the abovementioned optional additives which may be present in the composition according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties are not affected thereby.
[0119] [Polyol] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may also be used in combination.
[0120] The term "polyol" as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxyl groups, and does not include sugars or their derivatives. Derivatives of sugars include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which one or more hydrogen atoms in one or more hydroxyl groups are replaced with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0121] The polyol contains at least two hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 5 hydroxy groups, 2 ~C 12 Polyol, preferably C 2 ~C 9 It may be a polyol.
[0122] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0123] The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.
[0124] The amount of polyol in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] On the other hand, the amount of polyol in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] Thus, the polyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, for example from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] [Other ingredients] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more monoalcohols that are in liquid form at room temperature (25° C.), such as, for example, linear or branched monoalcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol and hexanol.
[0128] The amount of monoalcohol in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] On the other hand, the amount of monoalcohol in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight and more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] Therefore, the amount of monoalcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0131] The compositions according to the invention may also contain, apart from the ingredients explained above, various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, hydrophilic antioxidants, colorants, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersants, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] [Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.
[0133] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0134] [form] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), an aqueous gel, or an aqueous solution.
[0135] It is preferred that the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W type. More preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion or an O / W dispersion, which comprises a fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phase can be oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is even more preferred that the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W gel emulsion or an O / W gel dispersion.
[0136] An O / W construct or structure composed of a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase has an external aqueous phase, therefore, when a composition according to the present invention has an O / W construct or structure, the composition can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can immediately impart.
[0137] [Method and Use] It is preferred that the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0138] The compositions according to the invention can be used for non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods, for treating keratinous materials, such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by application to the keratinous materials.
[0139] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.
[0140] The composition according to the invention can be used as an antioxidant, a whitening product or a UV protection product for keratinous materials such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used as a skin whitening cosmetic.
[0141] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for producing a (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant; (c) at least one oil of, The present invention relates to a use for producing a stable composition having a pH of 4.5 or less, comprising (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by the above chemical formula (I) and (d) water.
[0142] Another aspect of the present invention is also (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by the above formula (I), and (d) water A method for preparing a stable composition comprising: (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant, and (c) at least one oil to a composition having a pH of 4.5 or less.
[0143] In the above embodiment, (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by the above chemical formula (I) is preferably encapsulated by (e) at least one polysaccharide.
[0144] It is more preferred that the mixture of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by the above chemical formula (I) and (c) at least one oil is encapsulated by (e) at least one polysaccharide.
[0145] It is even more preferred that the mixture of (a) at least one cinnamic acid derivative represented by the above chemical formula (I), (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant, and (c) at least one oil is encapsulated by (e) at least one polysaccharide.
[0146] The above explanations of components (a) to (e) and optional components of the composition according to the invention can be applied to the explanations of the uses and methods according to the invention. The explanations of the preparation and forms of the composition according to the invention can also be applied to the preparation and forms of the composition described in the above uses and methods. EXAMPLES
[0147] The present invention will now be described in more detail by examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0148] (Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6) The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1.
[0149] The preparation of O / W emulsions (Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4) was carried out as follows: (1) Mix the components in phase A and phase B at 75-80°C using a homogenizer. (2) The mixture obtained in step (1) above is cooled to room temperature.
[0150] The preparation of encapsulated O / W gel-type dispersions (Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6) was carried out as follows: (1) Mix the ingredients of Phase A at 75-80°C to form a homogeneous mixture of Phase A. (2) Mix the ingredients of Phase B at 75-80°C to form a homogeneous mixture of Phase B. (3) Mix the ingredients of Phase C at 80-90°C to form a homogeneous mixture of Phase C. (4) Co-extrusion of a homogeneous mixture of phase A with a homogeneous mixture of phase C, which encapsulates the former with the latter, to prepare capsules, in which the homogeneous mixture of phase A is coated and encapsulated with the homogeneous mixture of phase C. (5) adding the capsules to the homogenous mixture of Phase B; and (6) The mixture obtained in the above step (5) is cooled to room temperature.
[0151] All component amounts shown in Table 1 are based on "weight percent" of active ingredient.
[0152] [Table 1A]
[0153] [Table 1B]
[0154] [evaluation]
[0155] (stability) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was filled into four glass bottles, and each of the glass bottles was kept under temperature conditions of 4° C., 25° C., 40° C., and 45° C., respectively, for two months.
[0156] Each glass bottle was then examined for the degree of change (in terms of color, crystallization and odor) and rated according to the following criteria: Very Good: Almost as good as when it was produced. Good: Slight changes in color, odor or appearance were observed. Poor: No change in color, odor or appearance was clearly observed. Yellowing, crystallization or bad odor was clearly observed. Very poor: Any change in color, odor or appearance was noticeable. Yellowing, crystallization or bad odor was noticeable.
[0157] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0158] It should be noted that Examples 1 and 2 should be compared with Comparative Examples 1-4, and Examples 3 and 4 should be compared with Comparative Examples 5 and 6.
[0159] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were in the form of O / W emulsions.
[0160] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 containing all the components (a)-(d) described above were stable.
[0161] Compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which had a pH above 4.5 (5.0 and 5.5, respectively), were not stable.
[0162] (c) Compositions according to Comparative Examples 3 and 4, lacking a lipophilic antioxidant, were not stable.
[0163] The compositions according to Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6 are in the form of an encapsulated oil-in-water gel-type dispersion, where (a) the oil is encapsulated in capsules formed by (e) a polysaccharide. Multiple capsules are present in the compositions according to Examples 3 and 4 and Comparative Examples 5 and 6.
[0164] The compositions according to Examples 5 and 6, containing all the components (a)-(e) described above, were stable.
[0165] The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which had a pH above 4.5 (5.0), was not stable.
[0166] (c) The composition according to Comparative Example 6, lacking a lipophilic antioxidant, was not stable.
Claims
1. (a) ferulic acid, (b) at least one lipophilic antioxidant; (c) isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and (d) water Including, the lipophilic antioxidant is selected from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof; The amount of the (a) ferulic acid in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by mass to 8% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition; the amount of the (b) lipophilic antioxidant in the composition is in the range of 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition; The amount of the (c) isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by mass to 50% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition; The composition has a pH of 4.5 or less.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) ferulic acid in the composition is in the range of 0.05% by weight to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (b) lipophilic antioxidant in the composition is in the range of 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of (c) isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate in the composition is in the range of 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of (d) water in the composition is in the range of 50% by mass to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
6. 6. The composition of claim 1, further comprising: (e) at least one polysaccharide.
7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the (e) polysaccharide is selected from agar, alginate, carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the amount of the (e) polysaccharide in the composition is in the range of 0.001% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. 9. The composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of O / W.
10. 10. The composition according to claim 1, which is a cosmetic composition.
11. A cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.
Citation Information
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