Smooth, stable, non-sticky composition
A composition with a specific combination of oils, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, and gemini surfactants stabilizes and reduces stickiness, providing a smooth and stable application experience.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2020205838
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-26
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-12-11
AI Technical Summary
Compositions containing polyglyceryl fatty acid esters often result in a sticky or greasy feel and are unstable over time and under temperature changes.
A composition comprising a specific combination of at least one oil, C6~C22 first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, C24~C32 second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol, gemini surfactant, and water, with a weighted average HLB value of 8 to 11 and a mass ratio of first to second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester between 15 and 35, forming an O/W emulsion.
The composition provides a non-sticky, non-greasy feel and maintains stability over time and temperature changes, ensuring a smooth application experience.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a non-sticky, smooth and stable composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition. [Background technology]
[0002] Compositions containing polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are known in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology. Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters can function as surfactants and therefore can typically be used to prepare emulsions, such as oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.
[0003] For example, JP 2015-189762, JP 2014-073991, and JP 2017-114781 disclose emulsions formed by using polyglyceryl fatty acid esters as surfactants.
[0004] However, compositions containing polyglyceryl fatty acid esters often result in a sticky or greasy feel and tend to be unstable, especially over time and / or under temperature changes.
[0005] There remains a need for new approaches to reduce the sticky feel of compositions containing polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and to stabilize the compositions. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] Patent Publication No. 2015-189762 [Patent Document 2] Patent Publication No. 2014-073991 [Patent Document 3] Patent Publication No. 2017-114781 [Non-patent literature]
[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-patent document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-patent document 3] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Volume 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55. [Non-patent document 4] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Volume 116, Number 7, pp. 67-70 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] The object of the present invention is to provide a composition that provides a non-sticky or less sticky feel as well as a non-greasy or smooth feel after application, even when the composition contains a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and that is stable, in particular stable over time and / or under temperature changes. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one oil; (b) C6~C22 at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue; (c)C 24 ~C 32 at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; (e) at least one gemini surfactant, and (f) water Including, a weighted average of the HLB values of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is between 8 and 11; The mass ratio of (b) the amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to (c) the amount of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is greater than 15 and less than 35; This can be achieved by an O / W composition.
[0010] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of ester oils, triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0011] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, more preferably 1% to 9% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0012] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have polyglyceryl moieties derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, preferably 2 to 8 glycerins, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerins.
[0013] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl distearate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units.
[0014] The content of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention can be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0015] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have polyglyceryl moieties derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, preferably 2 to 8 glycerins, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerins.
[0016] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.
[0017] The amount of (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention can be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0018] (d) The fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0019] The amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0020] (e) The gemini surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauroyl glutamate lysine, sodium dimyristoyl glutamate lysine, sodium distearoyl glutamate lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0021] The amount of (e) gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0022] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 50% to 90% by mass, preferably 55% to 85% by mass, and more preferably 60% to 80% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0024] As a result of intensive research, the present inventors have discovered a new approach to providing a composition that provides a non-sticky or less sticky feel as well as a non-greasy or smooth feel after application, and is stable, particularly stable over time and / or under temperature changes, by using a specific combination of selected ingredients under certain conditions, even when the composition contains a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
[0025] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is (a) at least one oil; (b) C6~C 22 at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue; (c)C 24 ~C 32 at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; (e) at least one gemini surfactant, and (f) water Including, a weighted average of the HLB values of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is between 8 and 11; The mass ratio of (b) the amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to (c) the amount of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is greater than 15 and less than 35; It is a composition.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention, which contains a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, can provide a non-greasy or smooth feel along with a non-sticky or less sticky feel.
[0027] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent feel during use, in particular an excellent feel on the skin during and after application of the composition.
[0028] The term "stickiness" is used herein to mean the property of producing a sticky feeling on the skin.
[0029] The term "greasy" is used herein to mean the property of producing a slimy feeling on the skin.
[0030] The composition of the present invention is stable immediately after preparation of the composition and even after a long time after preparation of the composition, even under temperature changes from cold to hot. Therefore, the composition of the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period of time, even under temperature changes from winter to summer.
[0031] The compositions according to the invention are described in more detail below.
[0032] [oil] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. A single type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oil may be used in combination.
[0033] As used herein, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). (a) As the oil, any oil commonly used in cosmetics can be used, either alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0034] (a) The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0035] (a) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
[0036] As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made, for example, of linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0037] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0038] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 It is a liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is 10 or more.
[0039] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0040] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0041] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0042] Mention may be made, inter alia, of: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0043] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It should be remembered that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing some alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0044] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0045] Sugar esters of fatty acids are, in particular, those made by esterifying the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids, which, when unsaturated, can have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0046] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0048] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, especially monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.
[0049] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0050] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like. Mention may be made of glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of caprylic / caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0052] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.
[0053] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from polydialkylsiloxane fluids, especially polydimethylsiloxane fluids (PDMS), and polyorganosiloxane fluids containing at least one aryl group.
[0054] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain one or more organic functional groups in their structure that are bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups.
[0055] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0056] If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly chosen from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the following type: dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide:
[0057] [ka]
[0058] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear, volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 1 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in an article published by Todd & Byers in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Appendix C.
[0059] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used, these being more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made primarily of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0060] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as 70 047 V 500 000 oil. - Mirasil® series oils sold by Rhodia - Dow Corning 200 series oil, e.g. 60000mm 2DC200 with a viscosity of 1 / s General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain oils of the General Electric SF series (SF 96, SF 18)
[0061] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0062] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, there are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, 70 641 series - Rhodia Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, an oil manufactured by Dow Corning - Bayer PK series silicones, e.g. product PK20 Certain oils of the General Electric SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265
[0063] The organically modified liquid silicones may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Thus, mention may be made of silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 manufactured by Union Carbide.
[0064] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0065] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, and naphthalene; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0066] In one embodiment, the (a) oil may be selected from triglyceride oils.
[0067] Triglyceride oils contain at least one triglyceride, also called triacylglycerol, in which three fatty acids or two fatty acids and one non-fatty acid are esterified with one glycerol.
[0068] The fatty acids may have, for example, 4 or more, 6 or more, 8 or more, or 10 or more carbon atoms, and 30 or less, 28 or less, 26 or less, or 24 or less carbon atoms. The fatty acids may have different carbon chain lengths, for example, from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The carbon chain may be linear or branched.
[0069] The fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0070] As examples of saturated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid, and octadocosanoic acid.
[0071] As examples of unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead acid, eicosatrienoic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbondo acid, sardine acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, and herring acid.
[0072] Examples of non-fatty acids may be dicarboxylic acids, which may have, for example, 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, or 4 or more carbon atoms, and 12 or less, 10 or less, 8 or less, or 6 or less carbon atoms. The non-fatty acids may have different carbon chain lengths, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 4 to 6 carbon atoms. The carbon chain may be linear or branched.
[0073] The non-fatty acids, preferably dicarboxylic acids, may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0074] As examples of saturated non-fatty acids, preferably saturated dicarboxylic acids, mention may be made, for example, of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, and sebacic acid.
[0075] As examples of unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of maleic acid, fumaric acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, and 2-pentenoic acid.
[0076] Triglyceride oils that may be suitable for the present invention are of vegetable origin, in other words, the triglyceride oils are preferably selected from vegetable oils.
[0077] The vegetable oil may be selected from vegetable extract oils, vegetable extract butters, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Among the plant-extracted oils, the following may be mentioned: jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, palm oil, meadowfoam seed oil; Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, mallow oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea oil, rapeseed oil, and copra oil.
[0079] Among the plant extract butters, the following may be mentioned: shea butter, nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), garam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phuwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ukuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, pineapple butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.
[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the triglyceride oil may be selected from caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The (a) oil is preferably selected from ester oils, triglyceride oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from ester oils, triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] The (a) oil is preferably chosen from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0083] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] On the other hand, the amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 12% by mass or less, more preferably 9% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0085] The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, more preferably 1% to 9% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0086] [First polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) C6 to C 22 The composition includes at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue. A single type of first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.
[0087] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a type of nonionic surfactant.
[0088] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 2 to 6 glycerols.
[0089] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 6.0 to 15.0, preferably 6.5 to 14.5, and more preferably 7.0 to 14.0.
[0090] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from mono-, di-, and triesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids. (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably a polyglyceryl fatty acid monoester.
[0091] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a C6-C 22 Contains fatty acid residues. C6-C 22 The fatty acid residue may be derived from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably saturated fatty acids, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
[0092] (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyrstate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, isostearate PG2, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristic acid, PG3 sesquimyristic acid, PG3 dimyristic acid, PG3 tri PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, sesqui PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristic acid, PG4 sesquimyristic acid, PG4 dimyristic acid, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 sesquistearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 sesquiisostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylic acid, PG5 sesquicaprylic acid, PG5 dicaprylic acid,PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristic acid, PG5 sesquimyristic acid, PG5 dimyristic acid, PG5 trimyristic acid, PG5 tetramyristic acid, PG5 stearate, PG5 sesquistearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate , PG5 Isostearate, PG5 Sesquiisostearate, PG5 Diisostearate, PG5 Triisostearate, PG5 Tetraisostearate, PG5 Oleate, PG5 Sesquioleate, PG5 Dioleate, PG5 Trioleate, PG5 Tetraoleate, PG6 Caprylate, PG6 Sesquicaprylate, PG6 Dicaprylate, PG6 Tricaprylate, PG6 Tetracaprylate, PG6 Pentacaprylate, PG6 Caprate, PG6 Sesquicaprate, PG6 Dicaprate, PG6 Tricaprate, PG6 Tetracaprate, Pentacaprylate PG6 phosphate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristic acid, PG6 sesquimyristic acid, PG6 dimyristic acid, PG6 trimyristic acid, PG6 tetramyristic acid, PG6 pentamyristic acid, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, diisostearyl PG6 oleate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 sesquicaprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 tetracaprylate, PG10 pentacaprylate, PG10 hexacaprylate, PG10 caprate, PG10 sesquicaprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate,PG10 Tetracaprate, PG10 Pentacaprate, PG10 Hexacaprate, PG10 Laurate, PG10 Sesquilaurate, PG10 Dilaurate, PG10 Trilaurate, PG10 Tetralaurate, PG10 Pentalaurate, PG10 Hexalaurate, PG10 Myristic Acid, PG10 Sesquimyristic Acid, PG10 Dimyristic Acid, PG10 Trimyristic Acid, PG10 Tetramyristic Acid, PG10 Pentamyristic Acid, PG10 Hexamyristic Acid, PG10 Stearic Acid, PG10 Sesquistearate, PG10 Distearate, Tristearate The oleic acid may be selected from the group consisting of PG10 oleate, PG10 tetrastearate, PG10 pentastearate, PG10 hexastearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 sesquiisostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 tetraisostearate, PG10 pentaisostearate, PG10 hexaisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 sesquioleate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 trioleate, PG10 tetraoleate, PG10 pentaoleate, and PG10 hexaoleate.
[0093] (b) The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the following: - polyglyceryl monolaurate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, - Polyglyceryl monocaprate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units - polyglyceryl monooleate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units, and - Polyglyceryl distearate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units
[0094] (b) Examples of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester include Sunsoft (registered trademark) Q-17D(G) manufactured by Taiyo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sunsoft (registered trademark) A-121E-C manufactured by Taiyo Chemical Co., Ltd., and Tegosoft (registered trademark) PC 41 manufactured by Evonik Co., Ltd.
[0095] The amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] On the other hand, the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0097] The amount of (b) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention can be in the range of 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0098] [Second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) C 24 ~C 32 The composition includes at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue. A single type of second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.
[0099] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a type of nonionic surfactant.
[0100] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester preferably has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 8 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably 2 to 4 glycerols.
[0101] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 4.0 to 6.0.
[0102] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from mono-, di-, and triesters of polyglyceryl fatty acids. (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably a polyglyceryl fatty acid diester.
[0103] (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is C 24 ~C 32 Contains fatty acid residues. 24 ~C 32 The fatty acid residues may be derived from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably saturated fatty acids, containing 24 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 26 to 28 carbon atoms, such as lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, cerotic acid, and montanic acid.
[0104] (c)C 24 ~C 32 The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue has the following formula (B): R 3 -C(O)-(O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2) n -OC(O)-R 4 (B) [In the formula, R 3 and R 4 are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 24 ~C 32 represents a fatty chain, n represents 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 8, and more preferably 2 to 6. Preferably, the polyglyceryl diester is represented by
[0105] According to an embodiment, in formula (B), R 3 The -C(O)- group is C 24 ~C 32 Corresponding to the carbon chain of a fatty acid, the acid is usually linear and saturated, preferably linear saturated C 24 ~C 30It corresponds to a fatty acid. Therefore, examples of such acids include tetracosanoic (i.e., lignoceric) acid (C24) and hexacosanoic (i.e., cerotic) acid (C26). 4 The group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, which is usually saturated and linear, and 24 ~C 32 chain, preferably C 24 ~C 30 It has a chain.
[0106] According to the invention, the polyglyceryl diesters are obtainable by esterification of solid waxes in the presence of at least one polyol.
[0107] Depending on the wax source, the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters, such as hydroxypalmitic acid or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. Preferably, the alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol, or tetracosanol. Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricle wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes. Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.
[0108] Suitable solid waxes for obtaining polyglyceryl diesters may have a melting point between 50° C. and 90° C. These may be of the formula R 1 -C(O)-OR 2 [In the formula, R 1The -C(O)- group corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid, and the acid is usually linear and saturated, and has at least 24, especially 26, preferably up to 32, and preferably 30 carbon atoms. This therefore includes hexacosane (i.e., cerotic) acid (C26). Depending on the wax source, the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters, such as hydroxypalmitic acid or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. 2 The group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, which is usually saturated and linear and has at least 18, in particular 20, preferably at most 44, preferably 34 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol, or tetracosanol. Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricle wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.
[0109] Preferably, the solid wax suitable for the esterification reaction is beeswax.
[0110] Preferably, the polyol used in the esterification is selected from the group comprising ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methylpropanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylolpropane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol, and polyglycerols (i.e., polymers of glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol having an average degree of polymerization between 2 and 6, preferably 3. Preferably, the polyol is polyglycerol-3.
[0111] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises the acid portion of a solid wax. The wax has a complex composition, which shares the common feature of containing a mixture of acid monoesters and very long chain fatty alcohols.
[0112] Preferably, (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a wax derivative obtained by reacting at least one solid wax together in the presence of at least one polyol and, optionally, at least one catalyst, whereby a transesterification reaction occurs between the various chemical entities to obtain the wax derivative.
[0113] Preferred catalysts are hydroxides or alkali or alkaline earth alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium carbonate or sodium carbonate, or tin- or titanium-based catalysts.
[0114] Preferably, the solid wax is advantageously chosen from the group comprising carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, ouricle wax, beeswax and shellac wax.
[0115] In a preferred embodiment, the wax derivative is obtained by reacting beeswax with a polyglycerol, such as polyglycerol-3.
[0116] In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C.
[0117] (c) The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is preferably polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.
[0118] (c) A second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used in combination with other ingredients.
[0119] For example, (c) a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used in combination with jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.
[0120] (c) As the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, EMULIUM® MELLIFERA (Gattefosse) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol) may be used, which contains a mixture of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax. This mixture contains 5 to 30% by weight of jojoba wax, 3 to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol, at least 50% by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and 3 to 15% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, based on the total weight of the mixture.
[0121] The amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] On the other hand, the amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0123] The amount of (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention can be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0124] [Combination of first and second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters] According to the present invention, the weighted average of the HLB values of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 11, and more preferably between 9.5 and 10.5.
[0125] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester / the amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is greater than 15 and less than 35, preferably greater than 17 and less than 30, more preferably greater than 19 and less than 25.
[0126] The total amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition according to the present invention is preferably within the range of 2% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 3% by mass to 9% by mass, and more preferably 4% by mass to 8% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0127] [Fatty alcohols] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0128] The term "fatty" as used herein means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0129] (d) The fatty alcohol can have the structure R—OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, e.g., from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 24 Alkyl groups and C 12 ~C24 R is selected from alkenyl groups, which may be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group or may be unsubstituted.
[0130] Non-limiting examples of (d) fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] Fatty alcohol may also refer to a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in a commercial product.
[0133] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0134] The amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] On the other hand, the amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0136] The amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0137] [Gemini surfactants] The composition according to the present invention includes (e) at least one gemini surfactant. A single type of gemini surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of gemini surfactants may be used in combination.
[0138] The (e) gemini surfactants, i.e. dimeric surfactants, used in the present invention are well known. For detailed descriptions of their various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications: Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Volume 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55, and Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Volume 116, Number 7, pp. 67-70.
[0139] (e) Gemini surfactants can be selected from compounds having two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter, these may be referred to as "amide compounds"). The amide compounds are represented by the following formula (A):
[0140] [ka]
[0141] [In the formula, Y' independently represents a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group, for example, a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group; j1, k1, j2, and k2 represent integers such that (j1, k1, j2, k2)=(2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0), or (0,2,0,2); l represents an integer of 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, and more preferably 10 to 12. It can be expressed as:
[0142] Preferably, in formula (A), l represents an integer of 8 to 12, j1=j2=0, and k1=k2=2.
[0143] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j1=j2=0, k1=k2=2, and l=10.
[0144] The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain N-acyl acidic amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and an organic solvent, or in an inert organic solvent, such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, or acetone, or in the absence of any solvent, at a temperature of −5° C. to 200° C., preferably 5° C. to 100° C., and more preferably 0° C. to 60° C.
[0145] As amide compounds, mention may be made of dilauroyl glutamic acid lysine sodium (dilauramidoglutamido lysine sodium), dimyristoyl glutamic acid lysine sodium (dimyristoyl glutamido lysine sodium), and distearoyl glutamic acid lysine sodium (distearoyl glutamido lysine sodium).
[0146] Particularly preferred is sodium dilauroyl glutamate lysine, which is sold by Asahi Kasei Finechem Co., Ltd. as Pellicer L-10 and L-30 as an aqueous solution with a concentration of 29% by weight based on the total weight of the aqueous solution, or as a mixture of sodium dilauroyl glutamate lysine and butylene glycol as Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Finechem Co., Ltd.
[0147] In another embodiment, (e) the gemini surfactant may also be represented by the following formula (I):
[0148] [ka]
[0149] [In the formula, R1 and R3 each independently represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y are each independently -(C2H4O) a -(C3H6O) b represents a Z group, where: Z represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH group, where M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion, or an ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25. n varies from 1 to 10] You can also follow the
[0150] The gemini surfactants of formula (I) are preferably those in which the R1-CO- and R3-CO- groups each contain 8 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably represent the residue of a coconut fatty acid (mainly including lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0151] In addition, the surfactant is preferably one in which the sum of a and b, for each of the X and Y groups, has an average value varying from 10 to 20, and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion, for example a sodium ion.
[0152] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a C1-C3 linear alkylene chain, preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0153] This type of surfactant is in particular identified by the INCI name: Dicocoyl Ethylenediamine PEG-15 Sodium Sulfate and has the following structure:
[0154] [ka]
[0155] where it is understood that PEG represents a CH2CH2O group and "cocoyl" represents a coconut fatty acid residue.
[0156] This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.
[0157] Preferably, the gemini surfactants according to the present invention are used in mixtures with other surfactants, in particular (a) C6 to C 22 Fatty acids (preferably C 14 ~C 20 (b) C6-C8 esters of glyceryl esters of stearic acid 22 Fatty acids (preferably C 14 ~C 20 , for example stearic acid) and diesters of citric acid with glycerol (especially C6-C 22 fatty acid esters and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) C 10 ~C 30 It is used in a mixture with a fatty alcohol, preferably behenyl alcohol.
[0158] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.
[0159] For example, the gemini surfactants can be used in mixtures with other surfactants in the form of products sold under the trade name Ceralution® by the company Sasol, such as, inter alia, the following products: Ceralution® H: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate (INCI name), Ceralution® F: Sodium lauroyl lactylate and dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate (INCI name), and Ceralution® C: Water, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Dicocoyl Ethylenediamine PEG-15 Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI Name).
[0160] The gemini surfactant represents 3% to 50% by weight of the mixture. Preferably, the composition contains as gemini surfactant a compound sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol, having the INCI names: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulfate.
[0161] The amount of (e) gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0162] On the other hand, the amount of (e) gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by mass or less, preferably 3% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0163] The amount of (e) gemini surfactant in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 3% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0164] [water] The composition according to the present invention comprises (f) water.
[0165] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or more, preferably 55% by mass or more, and more preferably 60% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0166] On the other hand, the amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by mass or less, preferably 85% by mass or less, and more preferably 80% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0167] The amount of (f) water in the composition according to the present invention can be within the range of 50% to 90% by mass, preferably 55% to 85% by mass, and more preferably 60% to 80% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0168] [Polyol] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.
[0169] The term "polyol" as used herein refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include sugars or their derivatives, which include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a sugar, and sugars or sugar alcohols in which the hydrogen atom in one or more hydroxy groups has been replaced with at least one substituent, such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0170] The polyol is a C2-C6 hydroxyl group containing at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups. 12 It may be a polyol, preferably a C2 to C9 polyol.
[0171] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.
[0172] The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, glycols and their derivatives, etc. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.
[0173] The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, for example from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] [Other optional ingredients] The compositions according to the invention may also contain effective amounts of other optional ingredients previously known elsewhere in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as various common adjuvants, hydrophilic and hydrophobic thickeners, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, for example panthenol, fragrances, plant extracts, and cationic polymers.
[0175] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent, which is preferably water-miscible. Examples of organic solvents include C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; similar products; and mixtures thereof.
[0176] The organic water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount in the range of less than 10% by weight, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 1% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0177] [Preparation and properties] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients according to conventional methods, including mixing using a homogenizer, such as a turbine mixer.
[0178] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0179] [Method and Use] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0180] The compositions according to the invention can be used in non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods for treating keratinous materials such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp by applying them to the keratinous materials.
[0181] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.
[0182] The present invention may also relate to the use of the compositions according to the invention as or in cosmetics, such as care products, cleaning products, make-up products, make-up removal products, etc. for the skin of the body and / or face, and / or mucous membranes, and / or the scalp, and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the eyelashes, and / or the eyebrows.
[0183] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic product as it is. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as one component of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other component to form a cosmetic product.
[0184] The care product can be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sunscreen, etc. The cleansing product can be a shampoo, a face wash, a hand wash, etc. The makeup product can be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blush, an eye shadow, a nail polish, etc. The makeup removal product can be a makeup cleanser, etc. [Example]
[0185] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0186] (Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8) The following compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows. (1) mixing the ingredients in column A of Table 1 at 70-75°C to form a homogeneous mixture of phase A; (2) adding the ingredients in column B of Table 1 to the mixture of phase A at 75-80°C, followed by homogenization to obtain a homogenous mixture (phases A and B) at 70-75°C; (3) mixing the ingredients in column C of Table 1 at 70-75°C to form a phase C mixture; (4) adding the mixture of phase C to the mixture of phases A and B at 70-75°C, followed by homogenization to obtain a homogenous mixture (phases A, B, and C) at 70-75°C, and cooling the resulting mixture to about 30°C; (5) Adding the ingredients in columns D and E of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B, and C at about 30°C, followed by homogenizing them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D, and E) at about 30°C, and cooling the resulting mixture to room temperature.
[0187] All component amounts shown in Table 1 are based on "mass %" of the active ingredient.
[0188] [Table 1A]
[0189] [Table 1B]
[0190] [Table 1C]
[0191] [evaluation] (Non-sticky feel) Five expert panelists evaluated the "non-sticky feel" after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8. Each panelist took each composition in their hand, then applied it to their face, evaluated the non-sticky feel after application, and scored it from 1 (very poor) to 5 (very good), and then classified the results into the following four categories based on the average of the scores: Very good: 5.0~4.0 Good: 3.9~3.0 Bad: 2.9~2.0 Very poor: 1.9~1.0
[0192] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0193] (Smooth feel) Five expert panelists evaluated the "smooth feel (non-greasy feel)" during application of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8. Each panelist took each composition in their hand, then applied it to their face, evaluated the smooth feel (non-greasy feel), and scored it from 1 (very poor) to 5 (very good), and then classified it into the following four categories based on the average score: Very good: 5.0~4.0 Good: 3.9~3.0 Bad: 2.9~2.0 Very poor: 1.9~1.0
[0194] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0195] (temperature stability) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 was filled into a glass bottle and stored for two months under varying temperature conditions of 4°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 45°C. Each sample was then inspected for the degree of change (color, odor, and pH) and evaluated according to the following criteria: Very Good: Almost as good as when manufactured. Good: Some changes in color, odor, and pH were observed, but no separation or creaming or crystallization was observed. Poor: Changes in color, odor, and pH were clearly observed. Separation or creaming or crystallization was clearly observed. Very poor: noticeable changes in color, odor, and pH. Signs of separation or creaming or crystallization were noticeable.
[0196] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0197] As is clear from Table 1, the compositions in the form of O / W emulsions according to the present invention (Examples 1 and 2) can provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky feel, smooth feel, and stability under temperature changes for two months, which can be attributed to the combination of components (b) and (c) under certain conditions. Therefore, the compositions according to the present invention can provide, in particular, excellent feel and long-term stability under temperature changes.
[0198] On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 did not satisfy the condition that the mass ratio of the amount of component (b) / the amount of component (c) was more than 15 and less than 35, and showed poor temperature stability.
[0199] Comparative Example 2 did not satisfy the conditions (i) that the weighted average of the HLB values of components (b) and (c) is between 8 and 11, and (ii) that the mass ratio of the amount of component (b) to the amount of component (c) is greater than 15 and less than 35, and exhibited poor temperature stability. In particular, crystallization was observed in Comparative Example 2 during stability evaluation.
[0200] Comparative Examples 3 and 4 did not satisfy the condition that the weighted average of the HLB values of components (b) and (c) be between 8 and 11, and showed poor temperature stability.
[0201] Comparative Example 5, which did not use component (c), showed a poorer non-sticky feel or a poorer smooth feel.
[0202] Comparative Example 6, which did not use component (a), showed very poor cosmetic effects in terms of any one of non-sticky feel, smooth feel, and temperature stability.
[0203] Comparative Example 7, which did not use component (d), showed a poorer non-sticky feel or a poorer smooth feel.
[0204] Comparative Example 8, which did not use component (e), showed poor non-sticky feel and poor temperature stability.
Claims
1. (a) at least one oil; (b)C 6 ~C 22 at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue; (c)C 24 ~C 32 at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; (e) at least one gemini surfactant, and (f) water Including, a weighted average of the HLB values of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is between 8 and 11; The mass ratio of (b) the amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to (c) the amount of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is greater than 15 and less than 35; O / W emulsion type composition.
2. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) oil is selected from the group consisting of ester oils, triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.
3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) oil in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. 4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has from 2 to 10 polyglyceryl moieties derived from glycerin.
5. 5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl distearate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of (b) the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. 7. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerins.
8. 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.
9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of (c) the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in the composition is in the range of 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (d) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition is within the range of 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. 12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant (e) is selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauroyl glutamate lysine, sodium dimyristoyl glutamate lysine, sodium distearoyl glutamate lysine, and mixtures thereof.
13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of (e) gemini surfactant in the composition is within the range of 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the amount of (f) water in the composition is within the range of 50% by weight to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
15. A cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratinous materials.
Citation Information
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