Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion

A combination of hydrophilic anionic associative and cellulose-based polymers in cosmetic compositions ensures a yogurt-like texture and viscosity at low pH, addressing the texture and feel issues of existing emulsions, providing a desirable application experience for skin care.

JP7754719B2Active Publication Date: 2025-10-15LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
JP2021562145
Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2019-04-30
Publication Date
2025-10-15
Estimated Expiration
2039-04-30

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions fail to provide a yogurt-like texture at pH levels below 6.0, which is unsuitable for active ingredients like baicalin and symwhite, and result in a greasy feel.

Method used

A unique combination of a hydrophilic anionic associative polymer and a cellulose-based thickening polymer is used in the cosmetic composition, with specific ratios to achieve a yogurt-like texture and desirable viscosity even at pH below 6.0, providing moisturizing and softening properties without greasiness.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves a yogurt-like texture and viscosity suitable for creams, offering a thick-thin-wet feel process upon application, suitable for keratinous materials like human skin, while maintaining a non-greasy feel and supporting active ingredients at lower pH levels.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the cosmetic composition comprising (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount of more than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount of more than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, the cosmetic method comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. [Background technology]

[0002] Skin is a protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (e.g., trauma) and biological injury (e.g., injury caused by bacteria, viruses, or fungi). Human skin comprises the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis is the top layer of the skin, and the superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.

[0003] The development of formulations dedicated to skin and / or lip care and / or makeup is never-ending, and such formulations must exhibit satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as ease of use, and in terms of sensory effects, such as hydrating and / or moisturizing sensation after application.

[0004] For various reasons, particularly related to a better user experience (softness and emollient properties, etc.), current compositions for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, and in particular the skin, are usually in the form of emulsions of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, consisting of an aqueous dispersible continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of the water-in-oil (W / O) type, consisting of an oily dispersed continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.

[0005] Oil-in-water emulsions are the most sought-after emulsions in the cosmetic field because they contain an aqueous phase as the outer phase and, when applied to the skin, feel fresher, less greasy, and lighter than water-in-oil emulsions.

[0006] In skin care routines, creams are an essential step for skin care such as anti-aging, whitening, and hydration. Efforts have also been made to incorporate active ingredients, such as anti-aging agents, hydrating agents, and / or skin whitening ingredients, such as baicalin, symwhite, etc., into oil-in-water emulsions.

[0007] Consumers are searching for creams that have a nourishing feel / benefit but with a light, dewy skin finish. Creams with a yogurt-like texture can meet this demand.

[0008] Currently, the yogurt-like texture of some cosmetics is primarily provided by acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.

[0009] However, in order for acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer to provide a yogurt-like texture, it requires the pH value of the cosmetic to be above 6.0, which is not suitable for many active substances that are effective at lower pH, such as baicalin, which is active at a pH of about 5.5, and symwhite, which is active at a pH below 5.0. When the pH is adjusted to a low pH value (pH<6.0), the yogurt texture cannot be obtained with acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0010] There is therefore a need to formulate cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water emulsions with a yogurt-like texture, even at a pH below 6.0. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The inventors have discovered that this need can be met by a unique combination of two specific polymers.

[0012] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0013] The composition according to the present invention is able to provide a yogurt-like texture even at a pH below 6.0.

[0014] The cosmetic composition according to the invention exhibits a yogurt-like texture and has good cosmetic properties, in particular moisturizing and / or softening keratinous materials without a greasy feel.

[0015] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity in the range of 40 to 70 UD(M3) when measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm, manufactured by ProRheo. A viscosity in the range of 40 to 70 UD(M3) is desirable for creams.

[0016] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also exhibits a thick-thin-wet feel process upon application.

[0017] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous materials a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0018] In the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes, such as lips, nails, etc. Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered by the present invention.

[0019] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from a reading of the following detailed description and examples. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] In the following description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within the range, particularly in expressions such as "between" and "ranging from."

[0021] Furthermore, the phrase "at least one" as used in this description is equivalent to the phrase "one or more."

[0022] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no features are present other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., "consisting of").

[0023] According to one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0024] aqueous phase The cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.

[0025] The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water and, optionally, one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, such as C2-C8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0026] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e., glycerin), and polyethylene glycol.

[0027] The aqueous phase may also include any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additives, as further described below.

[0028] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by mass, preferably from 50% to 90% by mass, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0029] Oil phase The cosmetic compositions of the present invention, as described above, comprise at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0030] The nature of the oil phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is not critical.

[0031] In particular, the oil phase comprises at least one oil.

[0032] The term oil refers to any fatty substance. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0033] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0034] The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More particularly, volatile oils have a concentration of 0.01 to 200 mg / cm, inclusive. 2 / min.

[0035] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean the oil that remains on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More particularly, non-volatile oils are those that are present in an amount of exactly 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min evaporation rate.

[0036] To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested was introduced into a 7 cm diameter crystallizer, which was then placed in a 0.3 m 3 The liquid is left to evaporate freely without stirring by ventilating with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, ref. 8550N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed directly above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with its blades facing the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rate is calculated as a function of the surface area per unit cm 2 It is expressed as mg of oil evaporated per unit of time (minutes) and per unit of time (minutes).

[0037] Oils suitable for the present invention are not limited to, but can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based, or fluorine-based.

[0038] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0039] The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0040] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0041] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0042] Preferably, the oil phase comprises at least an oil that is solid at room temperature (about 25°C).

[0043] Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbonated oils and silicone oils.

[0044] For example, hydrocarbon volatile oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, especially branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, e.g., C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names, for example, Isopar or Permethyl, C8-C 16 Mention may be made of branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, as well as mixtures thereof. Isododecane or isohexadecane are preferred.

[0045] As non-volatile oils, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for example liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam sold by Nippon Oil & Fats Co., Ltd., squalane of synthetic or vegetable origin; triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol (the fatty acids may have different chain lengths, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated), in particular triglycerides of fatty acids containing in particular 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid triglyceride, octanoic acid triglyceride and capric / caprylic acid triglyceride, or else hydrocarbon oils of plant origin based on hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, carophyllum oil, coconut oil, oils, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal germ oil (corn, wheat, barley, rye), shea butter oil; esters of fatty acids, in particular esters of fatty acids having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular esters of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, or stearic acid, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; - synthetic esters of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, examples of which include purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C benzoate, 12 ~C 15Alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoic acid esters, decanoic acid esters of alcohols or polyalcohols, or ricinoleic acid, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octylmyristate ethyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl triisostearate, or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate; - C8~C 26 Higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; - C8~C 26 Higher fatty alcohols, such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, or octyldodecanol; - synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms; silicone oils, for example linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) that are liquid at room temperature and optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxane, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates (optionally substituted, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, such as alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms and optionally fluorinated or carrying functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups); polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkylmethicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones; and - A mixture of these.

[0046] In some embodiments, the oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are liquid at room temperature, and synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0047] Preferably, the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 60% by mass, preferably from 3% to 40% by mass, and more preferably from 5% to 30% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0048] Hydrophilic Anionic Associative Polymers The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer.

[0049] The hydrophilic anionic associative polymers that can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are water-soluble polymers that are capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.

[0050] Its chemical structure includes a hydrophilic zone and a hydrophobic zone characterized by at least one fatty chain.

[0051] The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer of the present invention is preferably obtained by copolymerization between 1) and 2), 1) contains at least one linear or branched (C1-C 10 ) at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer substituted by an alkyl group; 2) is a compound of formula (I): AO-(Alk-O) z -(CH2) w -R a (I) [In the formula, A optionally contains an additional carboxyl group or a salt thereof, and the additional carboxyl group is linear or branched (C1-C 20 ) represents an ethylenically unsaturated acyclic residue, optionally esterified by an alkyl group, R a is linear or branched (C1-C 30 ) alkyl group, alkylaryl or arylalkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, the alkyl group being linear or branched, preferably R a is (C1~C 20 ) alkyl group, alkylphenyl or phenylalkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched; Alk represents a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, and in particular Alk represents -CH2-CH(R b )-[where R b represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, such as a methyl or ethyl group; z is an integer between 0 and 50, inclusive; w is an integer between 0 and 30, inclusive. at least one associative monomer which is an ester of However, (I) has at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH or C(O)OQ + [In the formula, Q + represents a cation selected from an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium.

[0052] By polymerization of 1) and 2) it is to be understood that copolymerization occurs between at least one monomer 1) and at least one monomer 2).

[0053] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the copolymer is a copolymer of at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomer of formula (a) and a copolymer of formula (I) or formula (b) as previously defined herein:

[0054] [ka]

[0055] [In the formula, R' a and R' b are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, preferably R' a and R' b represents a hydrogen atom, R' c and R" c are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkyl group, a C(O)OX group, or an -alk-C(O)OX group [wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, and -alk- represents a (C1-C6) alkylene group, for example, a methylene group], and preferably, R' c and / or R" c represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or a (C1-C6) alkyl group; R2 is a linear or branched (C6-C 40 ) alkyl group, preferably (C 10~C 30 ) represents an alkyl group, n is an integer between 5 and 100, in particular between 10 and 50, more particularly between 20 and 40, preferably between 20 and 30, for example 25, inclusive. and at least one associative monomer which is an ester of However, (a) or (b) has at least one carboxyl group C(O)OH or C(O)OQ + [In the formula, Q + represents a cation selected from an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium.

[0056] Especially R' a , R' b represents a hydrogen atom, and R' c and R" c represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an alkaline earth metal.

[0057] According to another variant, R' a , R' b , and R' c represents a hydrogen atom, and R" c represents an -alk-C(O)OX group, e.g., -CH2-C(O)OX, where X is as previously defined herein.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer comprises (A) and / or (B) units:

[0059] [ka]

[0060] [In the formula, R' a , R' b , R' c , R" c is as previously defined herein; x represents an integer, preferably greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10,000; y represents an integer, preferably greater than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10,000; x+y represent an integer, preferably greater than 200, more preferably between 200 and 20,000. Contains:

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic associative polymers of the invention have a molecular weight greater than 100,000, preferably between 200,000 and 8,000,000.

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, in formulas (A) and (B), R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an alkaline earth metal.

[0063] Examples of copolymers (a) / (b) as defined hereinbefore that can be used in the present invention include acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Synthalen® W2000 by 3V, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Acylun™ 28 by Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical), acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Aculyn™ 22 polymer by Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical), acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Structure 2001 by AkzoNobel, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymers, such as the product sold under the trade name Structure 2001 by AkzoNobel, Mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name 3001, acrylates / ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylic acid / palmeth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, for example the product sold under the trade name Polygel W 40 by the company Sigma-3V, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Among the hydrophilic anionic associative polymers mentioned above, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers are preferred, such as the product sold under the trade name Acylun™ 28 by Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical).

[0065] Preferably, the at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 6% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0066] Cellulose-based thickening polymer The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cellulosic thickening polymer.

[0067] Preferably, the cellulosic thickening polymers useful in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are selected from hydroxy(C1-C6) alkyl celluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), carboxy(C1-C6) alkyl celluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] More preferably, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, methylethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkyl celluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0069] In some embodiments, the cellulosic thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy(C1-C6) alkyl celluloses.

[0070] In one embodiment, the cellulosic thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0071] Preferably, the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0072] emulsifying surfactant Cosmetic compositions according to the invention generally comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant (or emulsifier), preferably chosen from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.

[0073] Anionic emulsifying surfactants include stearic acid, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates, and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, and C 10 ~C 30 , especially C 12 ~C 20 Mention may be made of the metal salts of fatty acids, in particular the metal stearates, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0074] As regards the nonionic emulsifying surfactants, esters of polyols with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, for example having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenation and / or oxypropylenation, for example C8-C 24 Glyceryl esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; C8-C 24 Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; C8-C 24 Sorbitol esters of fatty acids and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; Ethers of fatty alcohols; C8-C 24 C8-C sugar ethers of fatty alcohols 24 Mention may be made of sugar esters of fatty acids, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0075] Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include in particular glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and / or triglyceryl esters of stearic acid) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] As esters of polyethylene glycol with fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of polyethylene glycol stearates (mono-, di-, and / or tristearate esters of polyethylene glyceryl), especially polyethylene glycol 40 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), polyethylene glycol 50 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100), and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Mixtures of such surfactants can also be used, such as the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold under the name SIMULSOL 165® by SEPPIC.

[0078] As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol with fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), and ethers having 1 to 200, preferably 2 to 100, oxyethylene groups, such as ethers with the CTFA names Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Examples of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers are methyl glucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS® by Degussa Goldschmidt or sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50® by Croda and sucrose stearate marketed under the name RYOTO sugar ester S 1570® by Mitsubishi Chemical Foods; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APG), such as those marketed under the names Plantaren 2000® and 1200® Plantaren by Henkel, respectively; decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, such as those marketed under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt, and Emulgade by Henkel. Mention may be made of cetostearyl glucoside mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, under the name KE3302®, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl, sold under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic.

[0080] In some preferred embodiments, cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from stearic acid, polyethylene glycol stearate, and glyceryl stearate.

[0081] Preferably, the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by mass, preferably from 1.5% to 8% by mass, and more preferably from 2% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0082] active ingredient The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics field for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials.

[0083] As active ingredients, mention may be made of sunscreens, vitamins, emollients, hydrating agents, whitening agents, peeling agents, and the like.

[0084] In one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter as an emollient.

[0085] The amounts of active ingredients may be those conventional in the cosmetic field.

[0086] additives In known manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology.

[0087] Examples of additives that may be mentioned include preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, flavorings, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0088] In some preferred embodiments, cosmetic compositions according to the present invention include one or more preservatives.

[0089] Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin-containing compounds (e.g., glycerin, and / or ethylhexylglycerin, and / or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and / or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM ​​hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (various), lactic acid, and vitamin E (tocopherol).

[0090] In some preferred embodiments, cosmetic compositions according to the present invention include one or more fillers.

[0091] Suitable fillers include, but are not limited to, mineral or organic in nature, natural or synthetic, to provide oil absorption or optical effects. Oil-absorbing fillers can impart a matte effect and a non-greasy feel to the skin. Optical effect fillers can impart a soft focus / haze / blurring effect to the skin, provide a more uniform appearance to the skin, reduce the appearance of skin imperfections or uneven skin tone, or reduce the visibility of pores.

[0092] As examples of oil-absorbing fillers, mention may be made of mica, corn (maize) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, ptfe, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, silicic acid, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxymethyl starch.

[0093] As examples of optical effect fillers, mention may be made of bismuth oxide chloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxide, sodium potassium aluminum silicate.

[0094] As examples of fillers that provide both an oil-absorbing effect and an optical effect, mention may be made of silica, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) methicone, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene / acrylates copolymer.

[0095] These additives are used in proportions customary in the cosmetic field, for example from 0.01% to 30% of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and, depending on their nature, are introduced into the aqueous or oily phase of the composition.

[0096] These additives and their concentrations should not alter the properties desired for the compositions of the present invention.

[0097] According to a preferred aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylic acid / palmeth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer selected from hydroxy(C1-C6) alkyl celluloses in an amount ranging from 0.25% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0098] Methods and Uses The cosmetic composition according to the invention may constitute a composition intended for topical application and in particular intended to care for and / or make up keratinous materials, and in particular human skin.

[0099] Therefore, in another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0100] Cosmetic compositions according to the present invention generally have a viscosity falling in the range of 40-70 UD, which is desirable for a cream.

[0101] Viscosity is measured at 25°C using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm, manufactured by ProRheo.

[0102] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a yogurt-like texture.

[0103] Yogurt rheological properties are determined by visually observing whether the cosmetic composition being tested is flat and shiny while held in a container and whether, when scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition has a texture similar to that of thick yogurt. A cosmetic composition being tested is considered to have a yogurt-like texture if it is flat and shiny while held in a container and, when scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition has a texture similar to that of thick yogurt.

[0104] Cosmetic compositions according to the formulations of the present invention also exhibit a thick-thin-wet feel process upon application.

[0105] The invention is explained in more detail by the examples given below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration.

[0106] The percentages are by weight of the active ingredient or active substance.

[0107] In the following examples, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. [Example]

[0108] Example 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions using formulations of the present invention and comparative examples Cosmetic compositions were prepared according to inventive formulations (inv.) 1 to 3 and comparative formulations (comp.) 1 to 2, as listed in the table below.

[0109] [Table 1A]

[0110] [Table 1B]

[0111] Preparation method The cosmetic compositions listed above are prepared as follows.

[0112] 1. Phase A (aqueous phase) is solubilized using a homogenizer and heated to 60°C. 2. Heat Phase B (oil phase) to 60°C. 3. Phase B is introduced into phase A and homogenization is continued for 10 minutes at 60°C to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion. 4. Add Phase D (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) to the emulsion and homogenize for 10 minutes. 5. Change the homogenizer to a disperser and cool the emulsion to room temperature while continuing to stir. 6. Premix Phase E (Silicone) and introduce Phase E under stirring at room temperature. 7. Adjust the pH value of the formulation to 5.5 with Phase H.

[0113] Example 2: Evaluation of cosmetic compositions containing formulations of the present invention and comparative examples The viscosity of the cosmetic compositions according to the formulation of the present invention and the comparative formulation prepared in Example 1 was measured at 25°C using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm, manufactured by ProRheo.

[0114] Twenty-four hours after blending, the yogurt rheological properties are determined by visually observing whether the cosmetic composition being tested is flat and shiny while held in the container and whether, when scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition has a texture similar to that of thick yogurt. A cosmetic composition being tested is considered to have a yogurt-like texture if it is flat and shiny while held in the container and, when scooped out with a spoon, the cosmetic composition has a texture similar to that of thick yogurt.

[0115] The viscosity and yogurt-like texture characteristics of the cosmetic compositions according to the inventive and comparative formulations are summarized below.

[0116] [Table 2]

[0117] It can be seen that the cosmetic composition according to the comparative example formulation does not have a yogurt-like texture and has too low a viscosity, which is not desirable for a cream.

[0118] On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to the formulation of the present invention has a yogurt-like texture and a desirable viscosity.

[0119] According to a consumer test involving 20 women aged 20-40, the cosmetic composition according to the formulation of the present invention exhibits a thick-thin-soft feel process upon application.

Claims

1. 1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount greater than 0.75% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount greater than 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; Including, the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is selected from acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof; the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and mixtures of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, and / or hydroxybutyl methylcellulose and cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; Cosmetic composition.

2. 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

3. 3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose.

4. 4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

5. 5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7. 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one active ingredient for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

10. 1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose in an amount ranging from 0.25% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; Including, Cosmetic composition.

11. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising the step of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to said keratinous materials.

Citation Information

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