Care and / or makeup composition comprising a silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups and a copolymer based on a silicone resin and a silicone of the dimethiconol type
The combination of a silicone elastomer with carboxylic acid functional groups and a copolymer based on a silicone resin and dimethiconol-type silicone addresses abrasion resistance and application issues, resulting in a durable and easy-to-apply makeup composition.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024515478
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-09-15
- Filing Date
- 2022-09-01
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-09-01
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup compositions using silicone elastomers with carboxylic acid functional groups face issues with abrasion resistance and difficulty in application due to their soft and homogeneous consistency, making them hard to spread on the skin.
A composition comprising a silicone elastomer with carboxylic acid functional groups and a copolymer based on a silicone resin and dimethiconol-type silicone, formulated to be anhydrous, providing a fluid and smooth consistency for easy application while enhancing resistance to friction.
The composition achieves improved wear properties with enhanced resistance to friction and ease of application, ensuring a durable and comfortable makeup experience.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention aims to provide novel compositions for the care and / or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functions and at least one copolymer based on a silicone resin and a silicone of the dimethiconol type. [Background technology]
[0002] Cosmetic makeup compositions are commonly used not only to impart attractive color to keratinous materials such as skin, but also to enhance the beauty of uneven skin and reduce the visibility of imperfections in removal such as pores and wrinkles by making it possible to conceal marks and pigmentation disorders.Many formulations have been developed so far.For many years, consumers have been seeking compositions that provide good wear properties of makeup effect over time, so as to avoid the need to reapply the composition too frequently.
[0003] One of the solutions proposed by the prior art to obtain good wear properties is the use of film-forming agents, which allow the composition, when applied, to form a more tacky, adhesive and durable film on the substrate after drying.However, the use of film-forming agents is not entirely satisfactory, since one of the problems encountered with such agents is the fact that they cause discomfort when used, especially due to the difficulty in spreading the composition.
[0004] Makeup compositions based on silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups have already been proposed in the published literature (Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, Patent Document 3, Patent Document 4, Patent Document 5, Non-Patent Document 1, Non-Patent Document 2), and these compositions have good performance in terms of wear properties and durability. However, these polymers are not completely satisfactory in terms of resistance to abrasion. Furthermore, silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups generally have a texture that is difficult to pick up and apply, and tend to give makeup compositions with a soft and homogeneous consistency that is poorly fluid, making it difficult to pick up the product and spread it easily on the skin. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0005] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2015066161 (US Patent Application Publication No. 20160200876) [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2015066165 Brochure [Patent Document 3] International Publication No. 2015066199 Brochure [Patent Document 4] International Publication No. 2015167963 Brochure [Patent Document 5] International Publication No. 20180165434 (U.S. Patent No. 10918587B2) [Non-patent literature]
[0006] [Non-Patent Document 1] IPCOM000250448D [Non-patent document 2] IPCOM000250657D Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0007] One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, which comprises at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups in order to obtain a formulation with a deposit that is substantially more resistant to friction.
[0008] Another object of the present invention is to produce a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups, which composition has a sufficiently fluid, smooth, flexible and homogeneous consistency to be picked up and easily spread on the skin. [Means for solving the problem]
[0009] During its research, the Applicant discovered a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, and in particular the skin, which comprises, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functionality; b) at least one copolymer based on a silicone resin and a silicone of the dimethiconol type; It has been surprisingly discovered that these objectives can be achieved with a composition comprising:
[0010] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which comprises, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functionality; b) at least one copolymer based on a silicone resin and a silicone of the dimethiconol type; The present invention relates to a composition comprising:
[0012] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is anhydrous.
[0013] The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application of an emulsion as defined above to the keratinous materials.
[0014] The invention more particularly relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a composition as defined above.
[0015] definition In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" means the skin and more particularly areas such as the face, cheeks, hands, trunk, legs and thighs, the area around the eyes and the eyelids.
[0016] The term "physiologically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, has a pleasant color, odor and feel, and does not cause unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tightness or redness) that would tend to dissuade consumers from using the composition.
[0017] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains a water content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, and more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even does not contain water. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be introduced, inter alia, by raw materials of the composition which may contain residual amounts of water.
[0018] Silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups The composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials comprises at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functions.
[0019] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" refers to a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties, particularly the consistency of a sponge or soft sphere. Its elastic modulus is such that the material resists deformation and has limited stretch and contraction. The material can regain its original shape after stretching. Generally, it is partially or fully crosslinked and is not cyclic.
[0020] The term "silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups" means an organopolysiloxane elastomer that contains in its structure at least two carboxylic acid groups with at least one -COOH functional group.
[0021] The composition according to the invention advantageously has a content of active substance of silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functions ranging from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0022] Silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can be selected from those described in the published documents WO2015066161 (US20160200876), WO2015066165, WO2015066199, WO2015167963, WO20180165434 (US10918587B2), IPCOM000250448D, IPCOM000250657D.
[0023] According to one particular embodiment, the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups has the following formula (I): [Chemical formula 1] [ka] (In the formula, The group X is represented by the following formula (i): [Chemical formula 2] [ka] or the following formula (i'): [Chemical formula 3] [ka] Corresponding to the formula: W and W* independently represent an oxygen atom (O) or an NR group, and each R group independently represents a hydrogen atom (H) or an R group; Y is a divalent group; R 1 , R 11 , R 4 , R 14 , R 5 and R 15 independently represent a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyl group; R 3 and R 13 independently represent a divalent group; w and ww are independently integers ranging from 0 to 1000; x and xx are independently integers ranging from 1 to 100; y and yy are independently integers ranging from 0 to 1000; Preferably, w and y are not simultaneously equal to 0, and ww and yy are not simultaneously equal to 0. is selected from those corresponding to
[0024] The term "substituted" means that one or more hydrogen atoms of the hydrocarbyl group have been replaced by an atom other than hydrogen (i.e., a halogen), or alternatively, one or more carbon atoms have been replaced by an atom other than a carbon atom, such as a heteroatom, for example, oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen.
[0025] In formula (I), the lower and upper groups are the same or different siloxanes. According to certain specific embodiments, each siloxane chain comprises a siloxane bond (Si-O-Si) in its respective backbone. Each siloxane chain may comprise siloxane bonds separated by one or more divalent groups, such as a -CH- linking group. Other examples of divalent groups include polyether groups, such as -CHCHO- (i.e., ethylene oxide group), -CH(CH)CHO- (i.e., propylene oxide) and other linking groups. A combination of different divalent groups may be present in its respective backbone. Each divalent group may be single or repeated, i.e., 2 times, 5 times, 10 times, or even more than 10 times. According to certain embodiments, the siloxane does not contain any polyether groups.
[0026] In various embodiments, one or both siloxanes contain at least one [SiR 1 R 2 -O-] unit ("D" or R*SiO 2 / 2 units). Typically, each siloxane has repeating D units, which generally make up the linear portion of the siloxane. Siloxanes typically have terminal R*SiO 1 / 2 It also has units ("M" units).
[0027] In certain specific embodiments, one or both of the two siloxanes may optionally include a resin portion that is branched, partially branched, and / or has a three-dimensional network structure. In such cases, the corresponding siloxane may be represented by the formula R*SiO 3 / 2 units ("T" units) and / or SiO 4 / 2 The siloxane may additionally contain T and / or Q units. The branched or resinous nature of the siloxane may be due to the presence of one or more D units. According to certain embodiments, one or both of the siloxanes may lack T and / or Q units. The two siloxanes may be the same or different; i.e., one may be linear and the other branched, or both siloxanes may be linear.
[0028] According to certain particular embodiments, R 1 The groups independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkenyl, alkaryl, or aralkyl groups. More specifically, R 1 The group preferably represents an alkyl group having 1 to 20, 1 to 15, 1 to 10, 1 to 6, 1 to 4 or 1 or 2 carbon atoms, such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, etc. More particularly, R 1 All of the groups represent methyl groups (i.e., -CH3).
[0029] Preferably, R 3 The group is a hydrocarbylene, heterohydrocarbylene or organoheterylene group. In particular, R 3 is (CH2) n is a group, wherein n is an integer in the range of 1 to 30, 1 to 25, 1 to 20, 1 to 15, 1 to 10, 1 to 5 or 1 to 3, and more particularly is equal to 3.
[0030] According to various specific embodiments, R 4 and R 5 Each of the groups may independently be, inter alia, R 1 It may represent a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyl group selected from those defined above for the radical.
[0031] According to certain embodiments, each R 4 The groups are independently alkyl, aryl (i.e., phenyl) groups or (R 6 O) m R represents a group. 4 (R 6 O) m When R is a group, 6 is preferably an alkyl or aryl (i.e., phenyl) group, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, 1 to 25, 1 to 10, or 1 to 5, or 1. (R 6 O) m The group may be a polyether group (i.e., of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units). According to a particular embodiment, R 4 The group can be a divalent group on the silicone side chain of the siloxane.
[0032] According to a particular embodiment, R 4 is expressed as equation (1) [Chemical formula 4] [ka] (In the formula, R 3 has the same definition as previously given) Preferably, R 4 The group represents an alkyl group or a polyether group.
[0033] Preferably, each R 5 The group is R 1 For example, each R 5 and R 1 The group is an alkyl group, namely methyl.
[0034] Preferably, R 11 is R 1 is the same as or different from R 14 is R 4 is the same as or different from R 15 is R 5 Preferentially, R 5 The group is R 1 and / or R 15 The group is R 11 Represents.
[0035] Preferably, w is an integer in the range 0-1000, 0-950, 0-750, 0-500, 0-400, 1-350, 1-300, 25-250, 50-200, 50-150, 75-125, 90-110, 90-100, 90-95, and more particularly equal to 93.
[0036] Preferably, x is an integer between 1 and 100, between 1 and 75, between 1 and 50, between 1 and 25, between 1 and 20, between 1 and 10 or between 1 and 5, and more particularly is equal to 3.
[0037] Preferably, y is an integer in the range of 0 to 1000, 0 to 950, 0 to 750, 0 to 500, 0 to 400, 1 to 350, 1 to 300, 1 to 250, 1 to 200, 1 to 150, 1 to 100, 1 to 75, 1 to 50, 1 to 25, 1 to 20, 1 to 15, 1 to 10 or 1 to 5.
[0038] According to various embodiments, w and y are not simultaneously equal to 0. According to certain embodiments, the sum w+xz+y varies from 25 to 1500, from 25 to 1000, from 25 to 900, from 25 to 800, from 25 to 700, from 25 to 600, from 25 to 500, from 25 to 400, from 25 to 300, from 50 to 200, from 75 to 150, from 85 to 125, or from 90 to 110.
[0039] In certain embodiments, x is at least equal to 1, at least equal to 10, at least equal to 25, at least equal to 50, at least equal to 75, or at least equal to 5.
[0040] According to particular embodiments, ww may be identical to or different from w, xx may be identical to or different from x, and yy may be identical to or different from y. The units of formula (I), in particular those represented between the brackets of the subscripts w, ww, x, xx, y or yy, may be present in any order, randomly or in block form.
[0041] According to certain particular embodiments, R may be the same or different. 11 The group may be linear, branched or cyclic C1-C, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, etc. groups. 20 , C1~C 15 , C1~C 10 , C1-C6, C1-C4 or C1-C2 alkyl group. 11 The group is a methyl group.
[0042] According to certain particular embodiments, R may be the same or different. 14 The group may be an alkyl or aryl (i.e., phenyl) group or (R 16 O) mm Represents R14 (R 16 O) mm When R is a group, 16 represents an alkyl or aryl (i.e., phenyl) group, and mm is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, 1 to 25, 1 to 10, or 1 to 5, or 1. (R 16 O) mm The groups may be polyether groups (ie of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units).
[0043] According to a particular embodiment, R 14 The groups independently represent alkyl groups having 2 to 20, 2 to 15, 2 to 10, 2 to 5, or 2 carbon atoms.
[0044] According to another particular embodiment, R 14 can be a divalent linking group on the silicone side chain of the siloxane.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment, R 14 is expressed as equation (1) [ka] (In the formula, R 3 has the same definition as previously given) may represent an acid anhydride group of the formula:
[0046] Preferably, R 14 The group represents an alkyl group or a polyether group.
[0047] Preferably, ww is an integer in the range of 0 to 1000, 0 to 950, 0 to 750, 0 to 500, 0 to 400, 1 to 350, 1 to 300, 25 to 250, 50 to 200, 50 to 150, 75 to 125, 90 to 110, 90 to 100, 90 to 95, and more particularly 93.
[0048] Preferably, xx is an integer in the range of 1 to 100, 1 to 75, 1 to 50, 1 to 25, 1 to 20, 1 to 10 or 1 to 5, more particularly 3.
[0049] Preferably, yy is an integer in the range of 0 to 1000, 0 to 950, 0 to 750, 0 to 500, 0 to 400, 1 to 350, 1 to 300, 1 to 250, 1 to 200, 1 to 150, 1 to 100, 1 to 75, 1 to 50, 1 to 25, 1 to 20, 1 to 15, 1 to 10 or 1 to 5.
[0050] In various embodiments, ww and yy are not simultaneously equal to 0. According to certain particular embodiments, the sum ww+xx+yy varies from 25 to 1500, from 25 to 1000, from 25 to 900, from 25 to 800, from 25 to 700, from 25 to 600, from 25 to 500, from 25 to 400, from 25 to 300, from 50 to 200, from 75 to 150, from 85 to 125, or from 90 to 110.
[0051] According to certain particular embodiments, xx is at least equal to 1, at least equal to 10, at least equal to 25, at least equal to 50, at least equal to 75, or at least equal to 85.
[0052] The middle moiety X of formula (I) has the following general formula (i): [ka] or the following formula (i'): [ka] Corresponding to the formula: - each W and W* group independently represents an oxygen atom (O) or an NR group, where R represents a hydrogen atom (H) or an R group; preferably, R is H; -R 13 is a divalent radical, preferably hydrocarbylene, heterohydrocarbylene or organoheterylene; in particular, R is (CH) nn group (wherein nn is an integer of 1 to 30, 1 to 20, 1 to 15, 1 to 10, 1 to 5, 1 to 3, more particularly 3); R 13 may be the same or different from R3; each Y radical is a divalent radical and in particular represents a hydrocarbylene, heterohydrocarbylene or organoheterylene; in particular, Y is a hydrocarbylene radical having 1 to 50, 1 to 40, 1 to 20, 1 to 10, 1 to 5, 1 or 2 carbon atoms or a group of formula (ii) [Chemical formula 5] [ka] (In the formula, - Each R 8 , R 9 represent independently, inter alia, a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyl group selected from an alkyl group (i.e., methyl), an aryl group (i.e., phenyl), a polyether group (i.e., of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units); - Each R 10 The groups are independently R 1 and R 4 represents a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyl group such as those defined above for 10 may be an alkyl group or polyether group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or a divalent linking group on the side chain of a siloxane; - each Z group independently contains at least one hydrocarbylene, heterohydrocarbylene, or organoheterylene group, in particular a hydrocarbylene group having 1 to 20, 1 to 10, 1 to 5, or 1 carbon atoms; in particular, Z may contain one or more divalent groups, such as siloxane bonds separated by -CH- linking groups; other examples of divalent groups include polyether groups, such as -CHCHO- (i.e., ethylene oxide group), -CH(CH)CHO- (i.e., propylene oxide) linking groups; - a is an integer in the range of 0 to 1000, 0 to 950, 0 to 750, 0 to 500, 0 to 400, 0 to 300, 0 to 200, 0 to 100, 0 to 75, 0 to 50, 0 to 25, 0 to 20; or - b is an integer in the range of 1 to 1000, 1 to 950, 1 to 750, 1 to 500, 1 to 400, 1 to 300 or 1 to 200; - c is an integer in the range of 0-1000, 0-950, 0-750, 0-500, 0-400, 0-300, 0-200, 0-100; - each d is equal to 0 or 1. In particular, at least one of the d is equal to 1 or both are equal to 1; The units of formula (ii) depicted between brackets with subscripts a, b or c are present in any order, randomly or in block form. may represent a group of
[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the siloxane of formula (ii) is of formula R* s SiO (4-s) / 2 Preferably, the silicone resin has T and / or Q units along its chain, along with M units and optionally D units. The R* groups can be independently selected from substituted hydrocarbonyl groups (i.e., hydroxyl, amine functional groups) or unsubstituted hydrocarbonyl groups, with s varying from 0 to 3. The R* groups that can be used are R 8 , R 9 and R 10 The groups may be those previously described. Various combinations of such groups may be present. According to these specific cases, the silicone resin contains a combination of M, D, T, and / or Q units. It may be, inter alia, an MDT resin, an MT resin, an MDQ resin, an MQ resin, or an MDTQ resin. Each of the M, D, and T units may contain a different R* group. The resin may have various molecular weights, such as a number average molecular weight ranging from 800 to 500,000.
[0054] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups has a carboxyl equivalent weight in the range of 100-50,000, 500-10,000, or 500-5,000.
[0055] The silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functions of formula (I) can be obtained according to one of the synthesis methods described in document WO 2015066161 (US 20160200876).
[0056] According to a first variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, 2) a second siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, and 3) an organic polyol. According to a particular embodiment, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more siloxanes different from the first two.
[0057] According to a second variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, 2) a second siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, and 3) an organic polyamine. According to a particular embodiment, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more additional siloxanes different from the first two.
[0058] According to a third variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, 2) a second siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, and 3) a third siloxane having at least two hydroxyl groups. According to a particular embodiment, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more additional siloxanes different from the first two.
[0059] According to a fourth variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, 2) a second siloxane having pendant acid anhydride groups, and 3) a third siloxane having pendant amine groups and / or terminal amine groups. According to certain embodiments, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more additional siloxanes different from the first two.
[0060] According to a fifth variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first siloxane having pendant hydroxyl groups, 2) a second siloxane having pendant hydroxyl groups, and 3) a third siloxane having at least two terminal acid anhydride groups. According to certain embodiments, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more additional siloxanes different from the first two.
[0061] According to a sixth variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first siloxane having pendant amine groups, 2) a second siloxane having pendant amine groups, and 3) a third siloxane having at least two terminal acid anhydride groups. According to certain embodiments, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more additional siloxanes different from the first two.
[0062] According to a seventh variant of the synthesis method, certain silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups can be obtained by reacting 1) a first organic alcohol, 2) a second organic alcohol, and 3) a siloxane having terminal acid anhydride groups. According to a particular embodiment, the three precursor reactants can be reacted with one or more additional organic alcohols different from the first two.
[0063] Among the silicone elastomers containing a carboxylic acid function of formula (I), mention may be made of the following compounds 1 to 12, as described in application WO 2015066161 in examples 4, 5 and 7 to 16, respectively: [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka] [ka]
[0064] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention contains at least compound 11 as previously defined.
[0065] Among the silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functions that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may also be made of the silicone elastomer with the INCI name: (Hexyl / Dimethicone Succinate) Crosspolymer.
[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups are in solid form. They may be chosen, in particular, from compounds 2 and 3 as defined above.
[0067] According to another particular form, the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups is in dispersion in at least one oil and in the form of a gel.
[0068] The term "oil" refers to oil at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 10 5is understood to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (Pa).
[0069] The oil may be chosen from volatile and / or non-volatile oils.
[0070] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to oils that remain on keratin materials for at least several hours at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and in particular oils that remain on keratin materials for at least several hours at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). -3 It is understood to mean oils having a vapor pressure of less than mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0071] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that, on contact with the skin, is capable of evaporating in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are, in particular, volatile cosmetic products that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a vapor pressure of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, more in particular 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.
[0072] The oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group, more in particular an organopolysiloxane.
[0074] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups.
[0075] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in oil-based dispersions of silicone elastomers containing carboxylic acid functional groups include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly petroleum-derived C8-C10. 16Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and isohexadecane, for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C 16 Mention may be made of esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold by Shell under the name Shell Solt; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE 10 2008 012 457 by Cognis, can also be used. More particularly, isododecane will be used.
[0076] Among the volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition are, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8×10 -6 m 2 / s) and in particular those having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0077] Volatile linear silicone oils that can be used in the present invention can include octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that can be used in the present invention can include cyclomethicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Examples of non-volatile linear silicone oils may include polydimethylsiloxanes (also known as dimethicones); alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones and polydimethylsiloxanes modified with aliphatic groups and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol, carboxylic acid and / or amine groups.
[0080] Examples of non-volatile linear hydrocarbon oils include: synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the R1 and R2 chains is 10 or more; esters are in particular esters of fatty acids with alcohols, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate or tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, polypropylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate and mixtures thereof, C 12 ~C 15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; more particularly isodecyl neopentanoate; dialkyl carbonates, in which the two alkyl chains are optionally identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; - Synthetic ethers with 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether may be mentioned.
[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily dispersion of silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups comprises from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 35% by weight, of silicone elastomer active substance relative to the total weight of the oily dispersion.
[0082] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups in dispersion in isododecane and in gel form, in particular said silicone elastomer being chosen from compounds 1 and 4 to 11 as defined above.
[0083] According to one particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention comprises compound 11 in a dispersion in isodecane and in gel form, more particularly with a content of active substance equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
[0084] According to another particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention comprises a silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functions in a dispersion in isodecane and in gel form of an INCI name: Isododecane (and) (Hexyl / Dimethicone Succinate) Crosspolymer, with a content of active substance equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion, such as the commercial product DOWSIL EL-7314 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND® sold by Dow Corning, which contains more particularly 30% by weight of said silicone active substance.
[0085] Silicone resins and copolymers based on dimethiconol-type silicones The composition comprises a silicone resin and at least one copolymer based on silicone of the dimethiconol type.
[0086] Such copolymers are described, for example, in "Silicone Pressure Sensitive Adhesives," Sobieski and Tangney, Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology (D. Satas Ed.), Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York.
[0087] In the copolymer, the silicone resin is present in a content of 45% to 75% (relative to the total mass of silicones) and the dimethiconol type silicone is present in a content of 25% to 55%, with the sum of the percentages of the silicone resin and the dimethiconol type silicone being equal to 100. Preferably, the silicone resin is present in a content of 55% to 65% (relative to the total mass of silicones) and the dimethiconol type silicone is present in a content of 35% to 45%, with the sum of the percentages of the silicone resin and the dimethiconol type silicone being equal to 100.
[0088] Preferably, the silicone resin according to the present invention comprises SiO groups and R(SiO) 1 / 2 (triorganosilyl) groups, wherein each R group is independently selected from a methyl, ethyl, propyl, or vinyl group, and wherein the SiO2 functionality of the silicone resin and the R3(SiO) 1 / 2 The ratio between the functional groups is in the range of 0.6 to 0.9.
[0089] The triorganosilyl groups that can be used to form the silicone resin can be trimethylsilyl, triethylsilyl, methylmethylpropylsilyl or dimethylvinylsilyl units and mixtures thereof. The trimethylsilyl group is the preferred group in the context of the present invention.
[0090] Preferably, the dimethiconol-type silicone according to the present invention has a viscosity of 100 to 100,000 cSt at 25°C, and is a diorganopolysiloxane having terminal OH functional groups, wherein the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, and vinyl groups. The diorganopolysiloxane is preferably a linear polymer. Examples of diorganopolysiloxanes include, but are not limited to, polydimethylsiloxane, ethylmethylpolysiloxane, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and methylvinylsiloxane, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers having OH terminal groups. A preferred diorganopolysiloxane is polydimethylsiloxane.
[0091] Examples of the synthesis of such copolymers are described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,162,410 or Canadian Patent No. 711,756.
[0092] The copolymer according to the invention is therefore a mixture of: - SiO2 and R3(SiO) 1 / 2 units, wherein each R group is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, and vinyl groups, and wherein the SiO2 functional group of the silicone resin and the R3(SiO) 1 / 2 45% to 75% by weight of a silicone resin having a ratio between functional groups in the range of 0.6 to 0.9; - 25% to 55% by weight of a diorganopolysiloxane having terminal OH functional groups, having a viscosity of 100 to 100,000 cSt at 25°C, wherein the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl groups; - 0.001% to 5% of a suitable catalyst, which is preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound, preferably selected from primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, carboxylate salts of the above amines and quaternary ammonium salts. It can be prepared by heating
[0093] The mixture is heated at a temperature of 80°C to 160°C until the adhesive properties of the resulting silicone copolymer are obtained.
[0094] Preferred copolymers according to the invention are those having the INCI name (trimethylsiloxysilicate / dimethiconol) crosspolymer, such as the products sold by Dow Corning under the references DOWSIL FC 5002 ID RESIN GUM®, DOWSIL FC-5001 CM RESIN GUM®, DOWSIL FC 5004 RESIN GUM®, DOWSIL FC 5002 ID RESIN GUM® (Dow Corning Chemical Company); more particularly DOWSIL FC 5002 ID RESIN GUM® / DOW CORNING.
[0095] The composition according to the invention advantageously has a content of silicone resin and copolymer based on dimethiconol type silicone ranging from 0.2% to 60% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] More particularly, the silicone resin and the copolymer based on silicone of dimethiconol type may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of more than 1.0% and up to 40% by weight, preferably in the range from 1.5% to 20% by weight and preferentially in the range from 1.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] Monoalcohol According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one linear or branched monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0098] The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more monoalcohols.
[0099] The monoalcohol can be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, where Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0100] Monoalcohols may include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, or butanol.
[0101] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises isopropanol, ethanol and mixtures thereof.
[0102] According to an advantageous embodiment, the amount of monoalcohol varies from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] pigment According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pigment.
[0104] The term "pigments" means white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.
[0105] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of pigment, more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight of pigment, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.
[0107] The term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments of Ullmann's encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
[0108] The size of the pigments useful in connection with the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably between 200 nm and 5 μm, and more preferentially between 300 nm and 1 μm.
[0109] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by D
[50] greater than 100 nm, possibly up to 10 μm, preferably ranging from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 μm.
[0110] The size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which allows the measurement of the entire particle size distribution over a wide range that can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for particle size distributions in the submicron to several micron range; it allows the "effective" particle size to be measured. This theory is explained, inter alia, in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0111] D
[50] represents the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles.
[0112] In the context of the present invention, inorganic pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.
[0113] Inorganic pigments that may be used in the present invention may also include mother of pearl.
[0114] The term "mother of pearl" should be understood to mean any form of colored particles, which may or may not be iridescent, produced especially by certain mollusks in their exoskeleton or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect due to light interference.
[0115] The nacre can be selected from titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with iron oxide, titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium dioxide-coated mica coated with organic dyes, and also pearlescent pigments such as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, which can also be mica particles having at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants superimposed on the surface of the mica particle.
[0116] Examples of nacre that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.
[0117] Among the mother-of-pearl available on the market, mention may be made of the Timica®, Flamenco® and Duochrome® (mica-based) mother-of-pearl sold by Engelhard, Timiron® mother-of-pearl sold by Merck, Prestige® mica-based mother-of-pearl sold by Eckart and Sunshine® synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearl sold by Sun Chemical.
[0118] The nacre may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or sheen.
[0119] Illustrative examples of mother-of-pearl that may be used in connection with the present invention include gold-colored mother-of-pearl sold inter alia by Engelhard under the names Brilliant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze-colored mother-of-pearl sold inter alia by Merck under the names Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) by Engelhard and under the names Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte orange-coloured nacre sold inter alia by the Merck Company under the name Orange (17449)® (Microna); brown-coloured nacre sold inter alia by the Engelhard Company under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); nacre with copper luster sold inter alia by the Engelhard Company under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); nacre with red luster sold inter alia by the Merck Company under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona®); nacre with yellow luster sold inter alia by the Engelhard Company under the name Yellow (4502)® (Chromalite); red-coloured nacre with golden luster sold inter alia by the Engelhard Company under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); Pink mother of pearl sold inter alia by Engelhard under the trademark G005® (Gemtone);Mention may be made of black nacre with a golden sheen sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue nacre sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white nacre with a silver sheen sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver® and golden-greenish-pink-orange nacre sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona), as well as mixtures thereof;
[0120] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those that have optical effects that differ from the simple conventional coloring effects, i.e. the unified and stabilized effects that are produced by conventional colorants, such as monochromatic pigments, etc. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stabilized" means that there is no effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to temperature changes.
[0121] For example, the material can be selected from particles with metallic luster, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners and also fibers, in particular interference fibers. Naturally, these various materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous display of two effects, indeed even the novel effect according to the invention.
[0122] The particles with metallic luster that can be used in the present invention are in particular: - particles of at least one metal and / or of at least one metal derivative, - particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic or inorganic substrate at least partially covered with at least one layer having a metallic luster comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - a mixture of said particles is selected from.
[0123] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, as well as mixtures or alloys thereof, with Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze and brass) being preferred metals.
[0124] The term "metal derivatives" refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
[0125] As examples of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles such as those sold under the name Starbrite 1200EAC® by Silberline and under Metalure® by Eckart.
[0126] Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures, such as the reference 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metal pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the name Rotosafe 700® by the company Eckart, silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver® by the company Eckart, and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) powder sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by the company Eckart.
[0127] They may also be particles containing a glass substrate, such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co. under the name Microglass Metashine®.
[0128] Goniochromatic colorants may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.
[0129] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in the compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al (pigments with this structure are sold by DuPont de Nemours); Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr (pigments with this structure are sold under the name Chromaflai® by Flex); MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 (pigments with these structures are sold under the name Sicopearl® by BASF); M SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO (pigments with these structures are sold under the name Xirona® by Merck (Darmstadt)). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigment with silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic® by Merck, the pigment with silica / brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer® by Merck, and the pigment with silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue® by Merck. Mention may also be made of Infinite Colors pigments from Shiseido. Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and nature of the various layers. Thus, with an Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from green-gold to reddish-gray for SiO2 layers of 320-350 nm; from red to gold for SiO2 layers of 380-400 nm; from purple to green for SiO2 layers of 410-420 nm; and from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430-440 nm.
[0130] As examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, mention may be made of those sold by 3M under the name Color Glitter®.
[0131] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, for example, those sold by Chenix and those sold under the name Helicone® HC by Wacker can be used.
[0132] Hydrophobic coated pigments According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment, in particular as described in more detail below, coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0133] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered in large quantities together with large quantities of water, and, in addition, insofar as they are treated with hydrophobic compounds, they exhibit a marked affinity for the oily phase, so that they can be transported.
[0134] Of course, the composition according to the invention may also contain uncoated pigments.
[0135] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0136] For the purposes of the present invention, a "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally refers to a total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent that is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0137] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.
[0138] The surface agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and the formation of a covalent bond.
[0139] According to one alternative, the surface treatment consists of a coating of pigments.
[0140] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0141] The coating can be brought about, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the solid particles with the liquid surface agent under stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
[0142] The coating can be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of the surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particle and the formation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particle, a process described, inter alia, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,266.
[0143] Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting a surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigment.
[0144] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agents According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated in accordance with the present invention with at least one compound selected from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0145] Silicone Surface Agent According to a particular embodiment, the pigment may be fully or partially surface treated with a compound of silicone nature.
[0146] The silicone surface agent may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins and mixtures thereof.
[0147] The term "organopolysiloxane compound" is understood to mean a compound having a structure containing alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and containing organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms.
[0148] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane In particular, non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes may include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.
[0149] An alkoxy group can be represented by an RO- group, where R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl group, an aryl group such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or a substituted aryl group such as phenylethyl.
[0150] One method for treating pigments with polymethylhydrosiloxane involves dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding a silicone compound. Heating the mixture creates a covalent bond between the silicone compound and the pigment surface.
[0151] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0152] Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes Silanes with alkoxy functionality are described in particular by Witucki in A Silane Primer, Chemistry and Applications of Alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.
[0153] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used to coat the pigment.
[0154] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes with reactive end groups such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino is described in JP 07-196946. They are also suitable for treating pigments.
[0155] Silicone-Acrylate Polymer Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone may be used, such as those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,725,882, 5,209,924, 4,972,037, 4,981,903, 4,981,902, 5,468,477, as well as in U.S. Pat. No. 5,219,560 and EP 0,388,582.
[0156] Other silicone-acrylate polymers have in their structure the following formula (II): [Chemical formula 4] [ka] wherein the same or different G1 groups are hydrogen or C1-C 10 the same or different G2 groups are C1-C10 represents an alkylene group; G3 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which may be from 10 to 350, and c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0. The silicone polymer may comprise units of:
[0157] Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has the following characteristics: - the G1 group represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group; - n is non-zero and the G2 group represents a divalent C1-C3 group, preferably a propylene group; G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 is (C1~C 10 ) denotes a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate type; It indicates at least one of, and more preferentially also all of.
[0158] An example of a silicone polymer corresponding to formula (I) is in particular polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to which mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic acid type and polymethyl(meth)acrylate type are grafted via thiopropylene type connecting links.
[0159] Another example of a silicone polymer corresponding to formula (I) is in particular polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to which polymer units of polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type are grafted via thiopropylene type connecting links.
[0160] Silicone resin The silicone surface agent may be selected from silicone resins.
[0161] The term "resin" is understood to mean a three-dimensional structure.
[0162] Silicone resins may be soluble or swellable in silicone oil. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
[0163] Silicone resin nomenclature is known by the designation "MDTQ," and resins are described according to the various siloxane monomer units they contain, with each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing one type of unit.
[0164] The letter M represents the compound of the formula (CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 represents a monofunctional unit of the formula: where the silicon atom is linked to only one oxygen atom in the polymer containing this unit.
[0165] The letter D represents the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO, in which a silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms. 2 / 2 means.
[0166] The letter T represents the formula (CH3)SiO 3 / 2 represents a trifunctional unit of
[0167] In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups can be replaced by an R group other than a methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon (especially alkyl) group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, or alternatively a hydroxyl group.
[0168] Finally, the letter Q represents the tetrafunctional unit SiO 4 / 2 where the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0169] A variety of resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, and the properties of these polymers vary depending on the type of monomer (or unit), the type and number of groups substituted, the chain length of the polymer, the degree of branching, and the size of the pendant chains.
[0170] Examples of these silicone resins include: - Formula [(CH3)3SiO 1 / 2 ]x(SiO 4 / 2 )y (MQ units), where x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80; - Formula (CH3SiO 3 / 2 )x(T units), where x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl groups can be replaced by an R group as defined above; - polymethylsilsesquioxane, which is a polysilsesquioxane in which none of the methyl groups has been replaced by another group may be mentioned.
[0171] Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in document US Pat. No. 5,246,694.
[0172] Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include: - Reference Resin MK®, e.g. Belsil PMS MK®: maximum 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO 2 / 2 CH3SiO2, which may also contain units (D units) and has an average molecular weight of about 10,000. 3 / 2 Polymers containing repeating units (T units), such as those sold by Wacker; - (formula CH3SiO 3 / 2and having Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-220L®, containing 98% T units and 2% dimethyl D units and having Si-OH end groups, under the reference KR-242A®, or else containing 88% T units and 12% dimethyl D units and having Si-OH end groups, sold by Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-251® may be mentioned.
[0173] Siloxysilicate resins may include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, optionally in powder form, sold by General Electric under the references SR1000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230® or by Wacker Silicone Corporation under the references TMS 803®, Wacker 803® and 804®.
[0174] Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in solvents such as cyclomethicone, sold under the names KF-7312J® by Shin-Etsu and DC 749® and DC 593® by Dow Corning.
[0175] Examples of commercial reference symbols for pigments treated with silicone compounds include: - Red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10 (registered trademark) by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd.; and a pigment obtained by treating DC Red 7 with a silicone compound (which is a mixture of D5 and polysilicone-11), sold by Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM® may be mentioned.
[0176] Fluorinated Surface Agents The pigments can be fully or partially surface treated with fluorinated compounds.
[0177] The fluorinated surface agent may be selected from perfluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide or polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl groups or perfluoropolyethers.
[0178] The term "perfluoroalkyl group" is understood to mean an alkyl group in which all of the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.
[0179] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135 and are sold under the trade name Fomblin® by Montefluos.
[0180] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in JP-B 05-86984. It is possible to use the perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530®.
[0181] Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organoperfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom.
[0182] Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.
[0183] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin; perfluoro(methyldecalin) or perfluoro((C3-C5)alkylcyclohexanes), such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane), sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP® by Rhodia.
[0184] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.
[0185] Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene, such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoro-1-methylnaphthalene.
[0186] Examples of commercial reference symbols for pigments treated with fluorinated compounds include: - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by Daito Kasei; - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by Daito Kasei; - black iron oxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL100® by Daito Kasei Co.; - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO 2 CR 50® by Daito Kasei; - Iron Oxide Yellow / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki; DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether, sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by Warner-Jenkinson may be mentioned.
[0187] Fluorosilicone Surface Agent The pigments can be fully or partially surface treated with a compound of fluorosilicone nature.
[0188] The fluorosilicone compound may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxy silanes.
[0189] As perfluoroalkylsilanes, mention may be made of the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones.
[0190] Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones have the following formula: [Chemical formula 5] [ka] (In the formula, R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms; m is selected from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100; - n is selected from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100 It can be expressed as:
[0191] As an example of a commercial reference for a pigment treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of the titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA®.
[0192] More particularly, examples of trade designations for pigments treated with perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilane compounds, such as perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane and perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane, include the following coated iron oxide pigments and coated titanium dioxide pigments: - Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane / CI77891 (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane (FHS-3 TiO2CR-50 (registered trademark), Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.); - Iron oxide (and) perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane / CI77492 (and) perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane (FHS-5 Sunpuro Yellow C33-9001 (registered trademark), Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.); - Iron oxide (and) perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane / CI77491 (and) perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane (FHS-5 Sunpuro Red C33-8001 (registered trademark), Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.); - Iron oxide (and) perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane / CI77499 (and) perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane (FHS-5 Sunpuro Black C33-7001 (registered trademark), Daito Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) may be mentioned.
[0193] Other lipophilic surface agents The hydrophobic treatment agent is i) Metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid. You can also choose from.
[0194] In particular, metal soaps may include metal soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0195] The metal of the metal soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium.
[0196] As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof can be used.
[0197] The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid or palmitic acid.
[0198] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group.
[0199] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
[0200] The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
[0201] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acyl amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, more in particular stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminium stearoyl glutamate.
[0202] The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.
[0203] The hydrophobic treatment can also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.
[0204] As examples of isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (ITT) treated pigments, mention may be made of those sold by the company Kobo under the trade references BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate).
[0205] The hydrophobic treatment can also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.
[0206] The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from viii) fatty esters, especially jojoba esters.
[0207] The hydrophobic treating agent may also be selected from ix) phospholipids.
[0208] The waxes mentioned in the above cited compounds may be those commonly used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.
[0209] They may in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0210] The term "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax containing a compound containing at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite or Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not included among the polar waxes.
[0211] In particular, polar waxes have a viscosity of δa>0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 , and even better, δa>1 (J / cm 3 )1 / 2 The average Hansen solubility parameter δa at 25°C is:
number
[0212] Hansen's definition of solvents in three-dimensional solubility space is given in C. M. Hansen, The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967): - δh characterizes the strength of a particular interaction (hydrogen bond, acid / base or donor / acceptor, etc.). - δp characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles.
[0213] The parameters δp and δh are (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:
[0214] Polar waxes consist, inter alia, of molecules that contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, heteroatoms (such as O, N and P) in their chemical structure.
[0215] In particular, non-limiting examples of these polar waxes may include natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and privet wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax or montan wax.
[0216] According to certain embodiments, the pigment may be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.
[0217] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with N-acylated amino acids and / or salts thereof, in particular glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, especially stearoyl glutamates, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. More particularly, examples of coated pigments according to the invention can include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, as sold, for example, by Miyoshi Kasei under the reference NAI®.
[0218] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments are coated with perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes, such as perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane and perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane. More particularly, as examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with perfluorohexylethyltriethoxysilane or perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane, as sold, for example, by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. under the reference FHS-5 Sunpuro®.
[0219] Pigments not coated with hydrophobic compounds As mentioned above, the composition may additionally contain pigments that are not coated with an oleophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0220] These other pigments may or may not be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
[0221] These pigments may in particular be inorganic pigments as defined above.
[0222] These pigments can also be organic pigments.
[0223] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia. The organic pigment may be selected from, inter alia, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.
[0224] Organic pigments are, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments which are classified in the Color Index with the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments which are classified in the Color Index with the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments which are classified in the Color Index with the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments which are classified in the Color Index with the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments which are classified in the Color Index with the references CI The red pigments may be selected from those classified under the designations 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives, as described in French Patent No. 2 679 771.
[0225] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, such as those described in EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may consist, inter alia, of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.
[0226] A pigment may also be a lake, the term "lake" meaning an insolubilized dye adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the resulting mass remaining insoluble during use.
[0227] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
[0228] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. The following names: D&C Red 21(CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5(CI 45 370), D&C Red 27(CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10(CI 45 425), D&C Red 3(CI 45 430), D&C Red 4(CI 15 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI 42) 090) may also be mentioned.
[0229] As an example of a lake, mention may be made of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0230] additives The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as UV sunscreens; moisturizing agents, for example polyols such as glycerol, propanediol or pentylene glycol; fillers; liposoluble colorants; thickeners or gelling agents; preservatives; fragrances; and mixtures thereof.
[0231] Filler The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, organic or inorganic, which makes it possible in particular to endow them with the additional properties of improved stability, abrasion resistance, coverage and / or mattness.
[0232] The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition and dispersed therein. These particles, inorganic or organic, give stiffness or hardness to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.
[0233] The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
[0234] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, in particular they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersibility and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
[0235] Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass or hydrophobic silica aerogels.
[0236] Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powder (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powder, acrylic acid copolymer powder (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres, such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g. Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (e.g. Tospearl® from Toshiba), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore L 200® (Chemdal Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, especially silsesquioxane resins, such as those sold by Daito in their Cellulobeads range, may also be mentioned.
[0237] Additional colorants The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] For obvious reasons, this amount is subject to great variation depending on the strength of the desired color effect and the color intensity imparted by the colorant under consideration, adjustment of which is clearly within the capabilities of one skilled in the art.
[0239] Additional colorants suitable for the present invention may be fat-soluble.
[0240] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liposoluble colorant" is intended to mean any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent, is miscible with fatty substances, and is capable of imparting color.
[0241] In particular, examples of fat-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention include synthetic or natural fat-soluble color dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto or curcumin.
[0242] Cosmetic Composition The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0243] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying the composition according to the invention to the skin.
[0244] The physiologically acceptable medium will generally also be adapted to the nature of the substrate onto which the composition is applied and the form in which the composition is packaged.
[0245] Applicable According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the trunk or of the face, in particular the facial skin.
[0246] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratinous materials, in particular of the trunk or of the face, in particular the skin of the face.
[0247] Thus, according to a submode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.
[0248] The composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a foundation.
[0249] According to another subtype of this embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face: it may thus be an eye shadow or a face powder.
[0250] Such compositions are prepared inter alia according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.
[0251] Throughout this description, including the claims, the term "comprises" should be understood as synonymous with "comprises at least one" unless otherwise specified.
[0252] The expressions "to" and "ranging from" should be understood to mean that the limits are inclusive unless otherwise specified.
[0253] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise stated, amounts expressed are expressed as mass percentages. [Example]
[0254] Example A (invention) and Example B (non-invention) The following compositions were prepared:
[0255] [Table 1]
[0256] procedure The components of Phase A were weighed into a main beaker and placed in a VMI Turbotest EVO® homogenizer equipped with a deflocculating impeller at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes. The components of Phase B were weighed in and mixed until completely solubilized. The components of Phase C were weighed in and mixed until completely dispersed. Phases B and then C were then introduced into Phase A. The mixture was allowed to stir at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes.
[0257] The evaluations performed for Examples A and B were carried out at least 24 hours after preparation of the formulations.
[0258] Example 1: Tribology Sample preparation A 50 μm thick deposit was produced using a spreader on a support consisting of Lycra® fabric coated with a biocompatible 11 Shore silicone gel (SkinAbs, Prevent Transformation®) bonded to a 25 μm breathable polyurethane film. The deposit was stored at 25°C for 24 h to allow complete drying.
[0259] A sphere of dry deposit with a radius of 40 mm was cut to perform tribometer measurements.
[0260] Friction and Wear Dimensions The purpose of this in vitro dynamic friction test is to quantify the wear characteristics of a foundation.
[0261] To do so, deposits of foundation brought onto a normalized "Skinabs®" support, either dry or impregnated with an aggressor, were subjected to a friction test. The properties of "Skinabs®" are explained below.
[0262] The equipment used was in two parts: - a static top on which the normalizing "Skinabs®" support is placed, - by making circular movements, the lower part on which the normalizing "Skinabs®" containing the deposit of foundation, dry or impregnated with an attacking agent, is attached The tribometer was a CSM® pin-on-disk tribometer consisting of a tribometer that allows for the application of force normal to a plane and velocity of motion.
[0263] The friction that occurs during the rotational movement can cause wear phenomena depending on the resistance of the deposits. These result in a greater or lesser loss of material on the underlying Skinabs®.
[0264] The abrasion properties are quantified by observing the loss of material on the "Skinabs®" made up foundation before and after rubbing.
[0265] Deposits are prepared on "Skinabs®", a Lycra® fabric bonded to a 25 μm breathable polyurethane coating and coated with a biocompatible 11 Shore 00 silicone gel that promotes adhesion to the metal parts of the tribometer.
[0266] This "BioSkin" has two advantages: - It allows standardized application using a spreader. The homogeneity of the deposit obtained is entirely satisfactory for foundations. - 54mN.m -1 It has been estimated to be 43mN.m, similar to that of the skin. -1 surface tension.
[0267] The foundation was applied using a mechanical spreader at a standardized thickness of 50 μm by performing one pass. After drying in the open air for 24 h, when the deposit was judged to be completely dry, a 5 cm diameter disk of pre-made Skinabs® was cut out using a punch, taking care to avoid damage caused by cutting out the fixed formulation. This piece was then attached to the bottom of the tribometer.
[0268] Similarly, a piece of Skinabs® on top of the tribometer was cut into a 1.8 cm diameter disk, which was bonded onto a metal support of the same diameter in the form of a pressed cup.
[0269] The friction radius was set to 8 mm and the rotation speed to 36 rpm, which is equivalent to a linear velocity of 3 cm / s. The stopping criterion was one turn repeatable five times. The imposed load rating of 1 N allowed for differentiation of the area of the foundation being tested while still having a low contact pressure representative of that in vivo.
[0270] Image acquisition is carried out by photography after each friction turn, and observation is carried out visually by comparing the state of the deposit before and after friction.
[0271] The sediment was evaluated after each pass and the degree of degradation (detachment, thinning, discoloration) was assessed throughout the analysis.
[0272] Observations and Results The behavior of formulations of DOWSIL FC 5002 IDD RESIN GUM®, Dow Corning, at different concentrations (0%, 10% active material) was analyzed.
[0273] [Table 2]
[0274] Composition A according to the invention was more resistant to abrasion than composition B outside the invention, which did not contain the silicone resin and the dimethiconol-type silicone-based copolymer.
[0275] Example 2: Rheological analysis Rheological measurements were performed with a forced stress rheometer (RheoStress 600®, Haake). Shear stress and velocity gradient measurements were performed using a cone sensor (C35 / 2° Ti L; 222-1871; 35 mm diameter, 2° angle) with a 0.105 mm gap and a measuring plate (MPC 35; 222-1549; 35 mm diameter, sandblasted). The temperature of the gap is controlled using an Eheim Pro 3600 / 2075020® hydraulic circulation pump and a Haake Universal Temperature Controller System® (UTC) 6001 temperature control system.
[0276] An anti-evaporation bell was placed above the plane of the cone and of the plate during the measurement.
[0277] The temperature of the gap was set at 25±0.5°C. A 120 s isotherm at this temperature was applied before each measurement. An upward oscillation curve with amplitude sweep was performed for 10 seconds at a frequency set at 1 Hz with 50 steps. -3 ~10 3 A stress ramp in the Pa range was imposed.
[0278] Observations and Results The rheological behavior of formulations A and B was analyzed. Measurement of the storage modulus G' and the loss or dissipation modulus G'' allowed the determination of the complex modulus G* and also the phase shift δ between stress and strain. These data were analyzed as a function of shear stress.
[0279] The behavior of the rheological curves indicates that they are materials that will simply flow if a high enough stress is applied to them.
[0280] The value of the complex modulus G* in the plateau preceding the break in the curve gives an idea of the consistency of the product at rest.
[0281] The rheological data for the three formulations are listed in the table below.
[0282] [Table 3]
[0283] A lower complex modulus G* across the measurement range indicates a formulation that is more fluid, softer, and more homogeneous, regardless of the applied force. A more rapid change from the elastic to the viscous state during application means easier spreading on the skin.
[0284] Composition A according to the invention was more fluid, softer and more homogeneous than composition B outside the invention, which did not contain the silicone resin and the dimethiconol-type silicone-based copolymer.
Claims
1. A composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising: a) at least one silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups in a content ranging from 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one copolymer based on a silicone resin and on dimethiconol-type silicone, in a content ranging from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; A composition comprising:
2. 2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is anhydrous.
3. The silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups has the following formula (I): 【Chemical 1】 (In the formula, The group X has the following formula (i): 【Chemistry 2】 or the following formula (i'): 【Chemistry 3】 Corresponding to the formula: W and W* independently represent an oxygen atom (O) or an N—R group, and each R group independently represents a hydrogen atom (H) or an R 1 represents a group; Y is a divalent group; R 1 , R 11 , R 4 , R 14 , R 5 and R 15 independently represent a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyl group; R 3 and R 13 independently represent a divalent group; w and ww are independently integers ranging from 0 to 1000; x and xx are independently integers ranging from 1 to 100; y and yy are independently integers ranging from 0 to 1000; Preferably, w and y are not simultaneously equal to 0, and ww and yy are not simultaneously equal to 0.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, selected from those corresponding to:
4. The silicone elastomer of formula (1) may comprise the following compounds 1 to 12: 【Chemistry 4】 【Chemistry 5】 【Chemistry 6】 【Chemistry 7】 【Chemistry 8】 【Chemistry 9】 【Chemistry 10】 【Chemistry 11】 【Chemistry 12】 【Chemistry 13】 【Chemistry 14】 【Chemistry 15】 The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, selected from:
5. 5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functionality is compound 11.
6. 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups has the INCI name: (Hexyl / Dimethicone Succinate) Crosspolymer.
7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups is in dispersion in at least one oil and in gel form; preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
8. 8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the dispersion in oil of silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups comprises from 10% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 35% by weight, of silicone elastomer active material relative to the total weight of the dispersion in oil.
9. 9. The composition of claim 7 or 8, wherein the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups is in dispersion in isododecane and in gel form.
10. 10. A composition according to claim 9, wherein the silicone elastomer containing carboxylic acid functional groups is selected from compounds 1, 4 and 11 according to claim 4, preferably compound 11, and more particularly compound 11 is present in the dispersion based on isododecane, with an active substance content of 30% by weight.
11. 9. A composition according to claim 8, comprising at least one silicone elastomer in gel form in a dispersion in isododecane with INCI name: Isododecane (and) (Hexyl / Dimethicone Succinate) Crosspolymer, more particularly with a content of active substance of 30% by weight in said isododecane-based dispersion.
12. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein said copolymer based on a silicone resin and on a silicone of dimethiconol type is chosen from those having the INCI name: (Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol) Crosspolymer.
13. A C 2 -C 6 monoalcohol, in particular at least one C 2 -C 6 monoalcohol selected from isopropanol, ethanol and mixtures thereof. 2 ~C 6 The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, additionally comprising a monoalcohol.
14. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the amount of monoalcohol varies from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, additionally comprising at least one pigment, preferably selected from iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
16. 16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the pigment is coated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic compound, in particular chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from fluorosilicone surface agents, and even more particularly chosen from perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes.
17. 17. The composition according to claim 15 or 16, comprising at least 5% by weight of pigment, more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight of pigment, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight, more in particular from 10% to 20% by weight of pigment relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. A method for coating, making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, characterized in that it comprises applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17.
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