Agents for improved oxidative lightening of keratin fibres.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a compound comprising: (a) at least one oxidizing agent; (b) a compound of general formula (I): and (c) at least one complexing agent of formula (I) TIFF2023519415000028.tif3887; and (c) at least one free radical scavenger.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to agents for oxidative color change in the cosmetics field, in particular agents suitable for lightening keratin fibers, especially human hair. [Background technology]

[0002] Changing hair shape and color is an important field in modern cosmetics. Blonde hair color is considered attractive and desirable from a fashion point of view, so lightening or bleaching one's hair color in addition to coloring is a particular desire of many consumers. For this purpose, various blonders with different blonde performances are available on the market.

[0003] The oxidizing agents contained in bleaching agents can lighten hair fibers by oxidatively destroying the hair's own pigment, melanin. For moderate bleaching, hydrogen peroxide alone (possibly with the addition of ammonia or other alkaline agents) is sufficient as an oxidizing agent; for stronger bleaching, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate and / or peroxomonosulfate is usually used.

[0004] For initially dark hair, lightening beyond a few shades typically requires longer application times and / or repeated bleaching processes. However, this also results in greater hair damage due to oxidative damage to not only the hair pigment but also other structural components of the hair. Depending on the degree of damage, the hair may become rough and brittle, making it difficult to comb, reducing hair resistance and tensile strength, and causing hair breakage.

[0005] The use of complexing agents in the oxidative discoloration of keratin fibers is well known, among other things, the purpose of which is to prevent the decomposition of hydrogen by metal ions accumulated in the hair fiber.

[0006] For example, European Patent Application Publication No. 1714634 describes a hair treatment kit for coloring human hair, which includes a first compartment containing a complexing agent and a second compartment containing a coloring agent. The use of the complexing agent is intended to prevent undesirable reactions on and with the hair, which would result in undesirable heating. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0007] [Patent Document 1] European Patent Application Publication No. 1714634 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] Many commercially available bleaching products use HEDP (etidronic acid) or its salts or EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetate) or its salts as complexing agents. Both HEDP and EDTA effectively stabilize hydrogen peroxide and complex any metal ions present, almost completely avoiding the unwanted temperature rise that occurs during application. However, the main drawback of HEDP and EDTA is their low biodegradability. Especially in recent years, consumers have become increasingly conscious of the environmental aspects of the cosmetics they use. Therefore, they particularly prefer all cosmetics that are as sustainable as possible and contain biodegradable ingredients.

[0009] Therefore, the object of the present invention was to find a blonde-forming agent containing a biodegradable complexing agent whose blonde-forming performance is at least comparable to, and preferably superior to, blonde-forming or lightening agents known from the prior art. Furthermore, the bleaching agent should have sufficiently high stability and should not be excessively heated even when applied to hair with a high metal or heavy metal content. Furthermore, the use of a complexing agent in a lightening or bleaching product should reduce hair damage. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] Surprisingly, it has been found that this problem can be completely solved by using a lightening or bleaching agent which, in addition to at least one oxidizing agent (a), also comprises at least one special complexing agent (b) of the specific formula (I) and a radical scavenger (c). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] The first object of the present invention is to (a) at least one oxidizing agent; (b) General formula (I): TIFF0007755595000001.tif3887[In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; M1, M2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent, preferably sodium, potassium, 1 / 2 magnesium, 1 / 2 calcium, 1 / 2 zinc, or ammonium ion (NH + ) represents at least one complexing agent (c) at least one radical inhibitor and a color lightening agent for lightening keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising:

[0012] keratin fiber Keratinous fibers, or keratinous fibers, refer to fur, wool, feathers, and especially human hair. The agent is primarily suitable for lightening keratinous fibers, but in principle, this does not prevent its use in other areas as well.

[0013] Keratin fiber lightener The term "lightening of keratin fibers" as used herein includes any form of color change in fibers in which the keratin fibers have a lighter color compared to the color present before application of the agent. This includes, in particular, color changes covered by the terms lightening, blonding, and bleaching. The lighter color of hair is caused by an oxidizing agent contained in the agent. In addition to the oxidizing agent, the agent of the present invention may contain colorant components such as oxidative dye precursors and / or direct dyes for shading purposes. Colorant components can easily change the color appearance of the resulting coloration. However, according to the present invention, these colorant components are present in the agent in small amounts, and yet the color impression of keratin fibers treated with the agent is lighter than its original color. The corresponding coloring technique is called color bleaching or nuance bleaching.

[0014] The agent preferably comprises the essential components (a), (b) and (c) of the present invention in a cosmetic carrier.For example, suitable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic carriers can be used as the cosmetic carrier of the agent.For hair coloring purposes, such carriers are, for example, cream, emulsion, gel, paste, or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoo, foam aerosol, foam preparations or other preparations suitable for application to hair.

[0015] Therefore, a first object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic carrier (a) at least one oxidizing agent; (b) General formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; M1, M2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent, preferably sodium, potassium, 1 / 2 magnesium, 1 / 2 calcium, 1 / 2 zinc or ammonium ion (NH + ) represents at least one complexing agent (c) at least one radical inhibitor and a color lightening agent for lightening keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising:

[0016] The agents according to the invention are ready-to-use agents which can be applied in this form to keratinous fibers for bleaching or lightening purposes.

[0017] Oxidizing agent (a) As a first essential component, the agent according to the present invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent (a). To obtain a moderate lightening effect, hydrogen peroxide is the most suitable oxidizing agent. As a bleaching and lightening agent, the preferred agent is further characterized by comprising hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products to an organic or inorganic compound. However, if a stronger lightening or bleaching effect is desired, hydrogen peroxide is used together with a more powerful oxidizing agent, such as a persulfate (sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, or ammonium persulfate).

[0018] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises: (a) comprises at least one oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate. It is characterized by:

[0019] Ammonium peroxodisulfate (which may also be called ammonium persulfate) is understood to mean the persulfate salt having the empirical formula (NH4)2S2O8.

[0020] Potassium peroxodisulfate (also known as potassium persulfate) is a persulfate salt with the molecular formula K2S2O8.

[0021] Sodium peroxodisulfate (also known as sodium persulfate) is a persulfate salt with the molecular formula Na2S2O8.

[0022] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises: (a1) hydrogen peroxide and (a2) at least one persulfate selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate The present invention is characterized by comprising:

[0023] Therefore, the first object of the present invention is to (a1) hydrogen peroxide and (a2) at least one persulfate selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate, and (b) General formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; M1, M2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent, preferably sodium, potassium, 1 / 2 magnesium, 1 / 2 calcium, 1 / 2 zinc or ammonium ion (NH + ) represents and at least one complexing agent of (c) at least one radical inhibitor and a color lightening agent for lightening keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising:

[0024] In a preferred embodiment, hydrogen peroxide itself is used as an aqueous solution. The concentration of the hydrogen peroxide solution in the agent according to the invention is determined on the one hand by legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably, a 3 to 12% by weight solution in water is used. The agent according to the first subject of the invention, which is preferred according to the invention, is characterized in that it contains (a) 0.1 to 12.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.5% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 8.5% by weight, even more preferably 1.5 to 7.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.5 to 6.0% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0025] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains (a) 0.1 to 12.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.5% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 8.5% by weight, even more preferably 1.5 to 7.0% by weight, and more particularly preferably 1.5 to 6.0% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, based on the weight of the agent.

[0026] Persulfates are also preferably used in the agent of the present invention in amounts within a specific range. It has been found to be preferable for the agent to contain (a) one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 2.0 to 40.0 wt %, preferably 4.0 to 30.0 wt %, more preferably 6.0 to 20.0 wt %, and most preferably 8.0 to 15.0 wt %, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0027] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the medicament according to the invention comprises: The composition is characterized in that it contains (a) one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 2.0 to 40.0 wt %, preferably 4.0 to 30.0 wt %, more preferably 6.0 to 20.0 wt %, and most preferably 8.0 to 15.0 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0028] Therefore, in the context of further embodiments, particularly preferred are (a1) 0.1 to 12.0 wt. %, preferably 0.5 to 10.5 wt. %, more preferably 1.0 to 8.5 wt. %, even more preferably 1.5 to 7.0 wt. %, and most preferably 1.5 to 6.0 wt. % of hydrogen peroxide, and (a2) a total amount of 2.0 to 40% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 30.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 20.0% by weight, and most preferably 8.0 to 15.0% by weight of one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate; and (b) General formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; M1, M2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent, preferably sodium, potassium, 1 / 2 magnesium, 1 / 2 calcium, 1 / 2 zinc or ammonium ion (NH + ) represents and at least one complexing agent of (c) at least one radical inhibitor and a color lightening agent for lightening keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising:

[0029] Complexing agent (b) As a second component essential to the present invention, the agent according to the present invention comprises a compound of the general formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; M1, M2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent, preferably sodium, potassium, 1 / 2 magnesium, 1 / 2 calcium, 1 / 2 zinc or ammonium ion (NH + ) represents The complexing agent (b) comprises at least one of the following:

[0030] The complexing agents of formula (I) are described as biodegradable and therefore represent environmentally beneficial alternatives to HEDP and EDTA. Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of these special complexing agents (b) in the agents of the present invention also significantly improves bleaching performance.

[0031] Examples of the substituents R1, R2 and R3 mentioned in formula (I) are given below: Examples of C1-C6 alkyl groups include -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, -(CH2)4CH3, -(CH2)5CH3. Particularly preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl. Examples of C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups include -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH(OH)CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH2OH, with -CH2CH2OH being preferred. Examples of carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl groups are HOOC-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-, HOOC-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-, the group HOOC-CH2- being preferred.

[0032] In the complexing agent of general formula (I), the group R1 is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6-alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6-alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt of a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group.

[0033] Physiologically acceptable salts are salts that can be used in cosmetics under physiological conditions without adverse effects. Examples of physiologically acceptable salts of carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl groups include sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts of carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl groups.

[0034] A particularly strong improvement in bleaching performance has been observed with agents comprising at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I), in which R1 is a hydrogen atom, a carboxy-C1-C6-alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, preferably a hydrogen atom, a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof.

[0035] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises: It is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I), in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, preferably a hydrogen atom, a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof.

[0036] In the complexing agent of general formula (I), R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C2-C6 alkyl group, a carboxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof.

[0037] Furthermore, particularly good results were obtained in the blonding test when at least one complexing agent (b) of formula (I) in which the groups R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof was used in the agent according to the invention.

[0038] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises: The composition is characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I) in which R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a carboxymethyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof.

[0039] For best bleaching results, R1 is a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 represents a methyl group; R3 represents a hydrogen atom; obtained with the complexing agent (b) of formula (I).

[0040] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises: R1 is a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 represents a methyl group; R3 represents a hydrogen atom; They are characterized by comprising at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I).

[0041] An obvious and very particularly preferred complexing agent (b) of this embodiment is N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine (which may alternatively be called 2-methyl-2',2'',2'''-nitrilotriacetic acid), abbreviated as the substance MGDA. MGDA has the CAS No. 29578-05-0 and can be purchased commercially from various suppliers, such as ABC Laboratory Scientific Co. Ltd, Chemieliva Pharmaceutical Co. Ltd, SIA "Chemspace" or Hong Kong Chemhere Co. Ltd, and has the formula (Ia). Physiologically compatible salts of MGDA are also according to the invention. [ka]

[0042] moreover, R1 represents a hydrogen atom; R2 and R3 are independently a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. Very good bleaching results were obtained with the complexing agent (b) of formula (I).

[0043] In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises: R1 represents a hydrogen atom; R2 and R3 are independently a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. They are characterized by comprising at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I).

[0044] An obviously very particularly preferred complexing agent (b) of this embodiment is aspartic acid-N-(2,3-dicarboxyethyl)tetrantrium salt (alternatively, it may be called tetrasodium iminodisuccinate), CAS No. 144538-83-0. This complexing agent is commercially available from Lanxess under the trade name Baypure CX 100. Aspartic acid-N-(2,3-dicarboxyethyl)tetrantrium salt has the structural formula (Ib): [ka]

[0045] In the compounds of formula (Ib), the groups M1 and M2 both represent sodium cations. Both other salts, such as the tetrasodium and tetrapotassium salts, as well as the tetracarboxylic acid itself, are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0046] Another suitable complexing agent of formula (I) is nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA). In the case of nitrilotriacetic acid, the group R1 is R1 is a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 and R3 both represent hydrogen atoms.

[0047] In order to optimize the bleaching or lightening effect, the complexing agent (b) is preferably used in the agent according to the invention in a specific range of amounts.

[0048] Tests using the prior art complexing agent HEDP (etidronic acid, CAS No. 2809-21-4) showed that increasing the amount of HEDP used did not necessarily translate into improved blonde performance. Thus, with HEDP, increasing the dosage does not exactly improve blonde performance.

[0049] In the background of the known results for HEDP, it was not expected that there would be other amount-activity ratios for the complexing agent (b) according to the invention. However, it was surprisingly found that the complexing agent (b) according to the invention further improves the blonding effect when a larger application amount is used in the agent. It is therefore particularly preferred if the agent comprises one or more complexing agents (b) of formula (I) in a total amount of 0.05 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, most preferably 1.1 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0050] In the context of a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises one or more complexing agents (b) corresponding to formula (I) in a total amount of 0.05 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 1.1 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0051] Radical Inhibitors (c) The complexing agent (b) according to the present invention can replace the complexing agents HEDP or EDTA commonly used in many commercial products without losing blonding performance. However, experiments leading to the present invention have shown that using complexing agent (b) alone can cause greater hair damage and negatively affect the temperature profile of the bleaching agent. Thus, strand tests have shown that bleaching agents containing only complexing agent (b) become much hotter than corresponding bleaching agents containing HEDP or EDTA when applied to metal-contaminated hair. Therefore, bleaching agents containing only complexing agent (b) can significantly overheat when applied to the scalp.

[0052] In further experiments, it was found that the addition of at least one radical inhibitor (c) minimizes hair damage and significantly reduces the temperature generated when the agent comes into contact with metal-containing hair. For this reason, the agent according to the present invention comprises at least one radical inhibitor (c) as a third component essential to the present invention.

[0053] The lightening or bleaching process that occurs in keratin fibers occurs primarily via radical reactions, with hydroxyl radicals, formed from hydrogen peroxide and / or persulfates, playing a central role. Radicals are atoms or molecules with at least one unpaired valence electron. As a rule, radicals are characterized by very high reactivity.

[0054] For purposes of this invention, radical inhibitors refer to substances that react with reactive radicals, such as hydroxyl radicals, and convert them through a series of rapid reactions to less reactive species, thereby interrupting the radical chain reaction.

[0055] Radical inhibitors suitable for use in cosmetics can be assigned to specific groups: the use of one or more radical inhibitors from the group of antioxidants, thiols, quinones and unsaturated organic compounds has proven particularly suitable for use in the lightening or bleaching compositions of the present invention.

[0056] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of unsaturated organic compounds, antioxidants, quinones and thiols.

[0057] To achieve the object of the present invention, it has proven particularly advantageous to use in the agent of the present invention at least one radical inhibitor (c) from the group of unsaturated organic compounds.Unsaturated organic compounds are understood to be organic compounds having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0058] At least one mono- or polyunsaturated C8-C 30 Fatty acids and / or mono- or polyunsaturated C8-C 30 The use of derivatives of fatty acids has proven particularly advantageous.

[0059] According to the present invention, unsaturated fatty acids are mono- or polyunsaturated, unbranched or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C8-C 30 It is a carboxylic acid. Unsaturated fatty acids can be mono- or polyunsaturated. In the case of unsaturated fatty acids, the C—C double bond can have a cis or trans configuration.

[0060] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is an unsaturated C8-C 30 The composition is characterized by containing at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of fatty acids and derivatives thereof.

[0061] C8-C 30Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, Linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid] are particularly preferred. 30 The fatty acids are linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid].

[0062] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention comprises petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z, The present invention is characterized in that it contains at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of (12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid]. 30 The fatty acids are linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid].

[0063] Particularly suitable unsaturated C8-C 30 Examples of fatty acids are linoleic and linolenic acids, which are essential fatty acids and are also known in the literature as vitamin F.

[0064] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of linoleic acid and linolenic acid.

[0065] C8-C 30 Particularly suitable derivatives of fatty acids are their esters.

[0066] C8-C 30 Esters of unsaturated fatty acids are characterized by the presence of an ester function obtained by esterification of the acid function of the fatty acid with an alcohol, which may be a monohydric or polyhydric alcohol, optionally bearing further functional groups or substituents.

[0067] Examples of monohydric alcohols include methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, n-pentanol, n-hexanol, n-heptanol, n-octanol, n-nonanol, n-decanol, n-undecanol, n-dodecanol, n-tetradecanol, n-hexadecanol, and n-octadecanol.

[0068] Examples of polyhydric alcohols are 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and glycerol, with glycerol being particularly preferred.

[0069] C8-C 30 Other examples of esters of unsaturated fatty acids include the corresponding fatty acid monoglycerides, fatty acid diglycerides and fatty acid triglycerides.

[0070] C8-C 30 Fatty acid monoglycerides are composed of the trihydric alcohol glycerol and one equivalent of unsaturated C8-C30 It is a monoester with a fatty acid. Either the middle hydroxy group of glycerol or the terminal hydroxy group of glycerol may be esterified with a fatty acid.

[0071] C, in which the hydroxy group of glycerol is esterified with a fatty acid 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglycerides, the fatty acids of which are petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-enoic acid], dienoic acid, linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].

[0072] C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides are those in which at least one fatty acid is unsaturated C8-C 30 2 equivalents of C8-C fatty acid 30 It is understood to be a diester of a fatty acid with the trihydric alcohol glycerol. Either the middle and one terminal hydroxyl group of glycerol are esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or both terminal hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified with one fatty acid each. Glycerol is a diester in which at least one fatty acid is an unsaturated C8-C 30 Provided that the fatty acid is esterified, it can be esterified with two fatty acids of the same structure or with two different fatty acids.

[0073] At least one of the ester groups is selected from the group consisting of petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,1 Particularly suitable are fatty acid diglycerides formed from fatty acids selected from (5Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid] and glycerol.

[0074] C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides are those in which at least one fatty acid is unsaturated C8-C 30 Must be a fatty acid, 3 equivalents of C8-C 30 It is understood to be a triester of fatty acids and the trihydric alcohol glycerol, in which at least one fatty acid is unsaturated C8-C 30 Provided that they are fatty acids, they can be esterified with three fatty acids of the same structure or with different fatty acids.

[0075] At least one of the ester groups is selected from the group consisting of petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,1 Particularly suitable are fatty acid triglycerides formed from fatty acids selected from (5Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid] and glycerol.

[0076] Apparently, radical inhibitors (c) from the group of phosphoglycerides have proven particularly suitable for solving the problem of the present invention. Phosphoglycerides are those having a C8-C 30 It is classified as a group of fatty acid esters.

[0077] In this context, phosphoglycerides according to the invention are understood to be substances which may alternatively be called glycerophospholipids / phosphoglycerolipids.

[0078] Phosphoglycerides in the sense of the present invention are phosphoglycerides in which at least one fatty acid is unsaturated C8-C 30 Two C8-C hydroxyl groups (OH groups) of glycerol, provided that it is a fatty acid. 30 It is constructed from glycerol esterified with a fatty acid. A phosphate group is attached to one of the third terminal OH groups. This phosphate group is in turn esterified with various alcohols to form phosphate diesters.

[0079] Obviously, radical inhibitors (c) derived from lecithin are particularly preferred.

[0080] More specifically, in the context of particularly preferred embodiments, the agents according to the invention have the general formula (II): [ka] [In the formula, R4 and R5 are independently saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 29 represents an alkyl group (provided that at least one of R4 and R5 is an unsaturated C 11 -C 29 represents an alkyl group)] The composition is characterized by comprising at least one radical inhibitor (c) of the above formula:

[0081] Preferably, the R4 and / or R5 groups may represent the following groups: Together with the carbonyl group adjacent to the R4 or R5 group, this group forms the esterified form of the fatty acid shown in the table.

[0082] [Table 1]

[0083] Preferably, at least one of the groups R4 and / or R5 is at least monounsaturated C 16 -C 20 - represents an alkyl group, particularly preferably an at least diunsaturated C 16 -C 20 - represents an alkyl group, and most preferably at least three unsaturated C 16 -C 20 represents an alkyl group.

[0084] In another, obviously very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is selected from the group R4 and / or R5, in which at least one of the groups R4 and / or R5 is an at least monounsaturated C 15 -C 21 - alkyl groups, particularly preferably at least diunsaturated C 15 -C 21 - alkyl groups, obviously very particularly preferably at least three unsaturated C 15 -C 21-alkyl group.

[0085] [Table 2]

[0086] More specifically, in the context of a very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is one in which at least one of R4 and / or R5 is a double unsaturated C 17 Alkyl group or triple unsaturated C 17 The composition is characterized by comprising at least one radical inhibitor (c) of general formula (II), which is an alkyl group.

[0087] One of the remaining R4 or R5 is saturated C 11 -C 29 If it is an alkyl group, this group is preferably a saturated C 11 Alkyl group, saturated C 13 Alkyl group, saturated C 15 Alkyl group, saturated C 17 Alkyl group, saturated C 19 Alkyl group or saturated C 21 It may be an alkyl group.

[0088] A particularly suitable lecithin of formula (II) is soybean lecithin, which is commercially available from Lipoid GmbH under the trade name Lipoid P20. This raw material has a phosphatidylcholine (=lecithin) content of at least 20% by weight and a fatty acid content of at least 61% by weight of linoleic or linolenic acid, based on the total content of fatty acids obtained after hydrolysis of the lecithin.

[0089] As radical inhibitors (c) from the group of antioxidants, vitamin F, vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin B and vitamin H have proven particularly suitable.

[0090] Vitamin F: The term vitamin F, as noted above, usually refers to essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic and linolenic acids.

[0091] Vitamin E: Vitamin E is a general term for a group of fat-soluble substances that primarily have antioxidant properties. The most abundant forms of vitamin E are called tocopherols and tocotrienols. A particularly suitable form of vitamin E is alpha-tocopherol. Alpha-tocopherol is also known as (2R)-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-[(4R,8R)-4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl]-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-6-ol or E 307 and has the CAS No. 10191-41-0.

[0092] The group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-Carotene is a provitamin of retinol. According to the present invention, possible vitamin A components are, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and its esters, such as palmitate and acetate.

[0093] Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its esters, especially ascorbyl palmitate, are also suitable according to the invention.

[0094] B vitamins or vitamin B complex include, among others: Vitamin B1 (thiamine) Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) The vitamin B3 compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often mentioned under this name, of which nicotinamide in particular is preferred according to the invention. Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol) Within this group, panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, esters and ethers of panthenol, cationically derivatized panthenol and pantolactone. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine, as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal)

[0095] Vitamin H The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valerate is known as vitamin H, but the common name biotin has since been established.

[0096] In the context of a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of vitamin F, vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin B and vitamin H.

[0097] In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one radical inhibitor (c) from the group consisting of vitamin F, vitamin E, vitamin C and vitamin A.

[0098] As the radical inhibitor (c), compounds from the quinone group are preferred. Quinones are organic compounds having a quinoid system. Suitable representatives from the quinone group are 1,4-benzoquinone, 1,4-naphthoquinone, and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone. Also preferred are 1,4-benzoquinones and 1,4-naphthoquinones having at least one substituent, such as a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a nitro group, a carboxylic acid group, a C1-C6 alkyl group, or a C1-C6 alkoxy group.

[0099] Examples of suitable radical inhibitors (c) from the group of the thiols are thiolactic acid, ammonium thioglycolate and ammonium thiolactate.

[0100] Thiolactic acid is understood to mean D-thioolactic acid, L-thioolactic acid and / or mixtures thereof. Cysteine ​​is understood to mean D-cysteine, L-cysteine ​​and / or mixtures thereof.

[0101] Ammonium thioglycolate is the ammonium salt of thiglycolic acid (i.e., the ammonium salt of sulfanylacetic acid) (formula Thiol-I). [ka]

[0102] Ammonium thiolactate is the ammonium salt of thiolactic acid (i.e., the ammonium salt of 2-sulfanylpropionic acid) (formula Thiol-II). [ka]

[0103] The definition of ammonium thiolactate includes both the ammonium salt of D-thiolactic acid and the salt of L-thiolactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] To optimize the desired effect, the radical inhibitor (c) is also preferably used in a certain range of amounts in the agent of the present invention. It has been found to be particularly advantageous when the agent contains one or more radical inhibitors (c) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.25 to 7.0 wt %, more preferably 0.25 to 6.0 wt %, and most preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0105] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises one or more radical inhibitors (c) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 7.0% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 6.0% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0106] Alkalizing agents As mentioned above, the first agent of the present invention is a ready-to-apply agent for lightening or bleaching keratin fibers. To achieve a sufficient bleaching effect, such agents are usually strongly alkaline, preferably with a pH value between 9 and 10.5. Such a high pH is necessary to ensure that the outer cuticle layer is opened, allowing the active species (hydrogen peroxide and persulfate) to penetrate the hair.

[0107] For this reason, it has been found to be particularly preferred if the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one alkalizing agent.

[0108] In the context of a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one alkalizing agent.

[0109] Preferred alkalizing agents are inorganic alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkanolamines, basic amino acids, and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal phosphates, and alkaline earth metal hydrogen phosphates. Preferred metal ions are lithium, sodium, and / or potassium. Preferred alkalizing agents are alkaline earth metal metasilicates and alkaline earth metal silicates.

[0110] Suitable inorganic alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, magnesium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate, with sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide being particularly preferred.

[0111] Alkanolamines as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent group bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed by 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, methylglucamine, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and triisopropanolamine. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and triethanolamine.

[0112] The basic amino acid as alkalizing agent is preferably selected from the group formed by L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, L-ornithine, D-ornithine, D / L-ornithine, L-histidine, D-histidine and / or D / L-histidine, with L-arginine, D-arginine and / or D / L-arginine being particularly preferred as alkalizing agents.

[0113] Abandonment of HEDP or EDTA The aim of the present application is in particular to dispense with the non-biodegradable complexing agents HEDP and EDTA. For this reason, the agent according to the present invention preferably contains these two complexing agents in particularly small amounts. Very preferably, the agent does not contain these two substances. Most preferably, the agent is also substantially free of salts of HEDP and EDTA.

[0114] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that the total content of etidronic acid and salts of etidronic acid contained in the agent is less than 0.2% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, and very particularly preferably less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0115] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that the total content of EDTA and salts of EDTA contained in the agent is less than 0.2% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.05% by weight, and very particularly preferably less than 0.001% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

[0116] Etidronic acid is also known as hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid and has the CAS number 2809-21-4.

[0117] EDTA is also known as ethylenediaminetetraacetate and has CAS numbers 6381-92-6 and 139-33-3 (anhydrous).

[0118] Other ingredients In addition to the essential components (a), (b) and (c) of the present invention and the optional alkalizing agent, the agent according to the present invention may contain other active ingredients and auxiliaries as non-essential ingredients, which are described below.

[0119] The agent is a solvent, C8-C 30 Fatty alcohols, C8-C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides, C8-C 30 Fatty acid monoglycerides, C8-C 30Fatty components such as fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons; nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, polymers; structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, e.g. lecithin and kephaline; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fibre structure improvers, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for colouring the agent; antidandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omazine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as their fatty acid condensation products or derivatives optionally modified with anions or cations; vegetable oils; light stability active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acid and its salts, and bisabolol; polyphenols, especially hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarin, hydroxybenzoic acid, plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax, and kerosene; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidine, urea, and primary, secondary, and tertiary phosphates; opacifying agents such as latex, styrene / PVP, and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlizing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; and blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, and air.

[0120] The selection of these other substances is made by a specialist according to the desired properties of the formulation. Regarding other optional ingredients and the amounts of these ingredients to be used, explicit reference should be made to the relevant manuals known to the specialist. The additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances are preferably used in the formulations according to the present invention in an amount of 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of each formulation.

[0121] Keratin Fiber Lightening Process As mentioned above, the agents of the first subject of the present invention represent ready-to-use lightening or bleaching agents which, in addition to the oxidizing agent (a), also contain a complexing agent (b), a radical inhibitor (c) and, optionally, an alkalizing agent.

[0122] Oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide and persulfates are highly reactive compounds with limited stability, especially in alkaline environments. For this reason, ready-to-use blonders are usually prepared by mixing two or more separately packaged preparations immediately before use.

[0123] Typically, the oxidizing agent (a) and the alkalizing agent are prepared separately. Various types of packaging are possible for the complexing agent (b) and the radical inhibitor (c).

[0124] For example, the complexing agent (b) and the radical inhibitor (c) can be formulated together with one or more persulfates and separately from the hydrogen peroxide. This embodiment is particularly preferred when only two different preparations are mixed together to prepare the ready-to-use agent.

[0125] A further object of the present invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers, characterized in that at least two separately packaged preparations (A) and (B) are mixed to form an application mixture, which is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after the exposure time, The preparation (A) comprises hydrogen peroxide (a1), Preparation (B) at least one persulfate (a2) selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate, and contains at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I), containing at least one radical inhibitor (c), (said complexing agent (b) and said radical inhibitor (c) have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the present invention).

[0126] Preparations (A) and (B) may be mixed with each other alone or with other separately packaged preparations immediately before use to form an application mixture.

[0127] When three different preparations are mixed together to prepare a ready-to-use agent, it may be preferable to provide a first preparation (A) separately with the first oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide, a second preparation (B) separately with the second oxidizing agent persulfate, and a third preparation (C) containing a complexing agent (b) and a radical inhibitor (c).

[0128] A further object of the present invention is a method for lightening keratin fibers, characterized in that at least three separately packaged preparations (A), (B) and (C) are mixed to form an application mixture, which is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after the exposure time, The preparation (A) comprises hydrogen peroxide (a1), the preparation (B) comprises at least one persulfate (a2) selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate, the preparation (C) comprises at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I) and at least one radical inhibitor (c), (said complexing agent (b) and said radical inhibitor (c) have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the present invention).

[0129] The preparation (B) containing persulfate is preferably in powder form.The powder of solid components with different particle sizes can be used.However, it is usually preferred that the powder has as uniform particle size as possible, especially in order to promote the uniform dispersion or dissolution of the powder in the preparation (B).

[0130] Furthermore, the preparation (B) may contain persulfates in a solid cosmetic carrier. The solid cosmetic carrier may contain silicates, in particular silicates and metasilicates, salts of ammonium, alkali metals and alkaline earth metals. In particular, persulfates of the formula (SiO2) n (M2O) m (where M represents a semi-stoichiometric equivalent of ammonium ion, alkali metal, or alkaline earth metal; and the anion [SiO3] 2- It is preferable to use metasilicates characterized by the ratio of n to m being ≦1, which can be understood as a chain-like polymer structure of the formula [Na2SiO3]. ∞ Particularly preferred is sodium metasilicate of the formula (SiO2) n (Na2O) m (K2O) p wherein n is a positive rational number, and m and p are independently positive rational numbers or 0, provided that at least one of the parameters m or p is other than 0 and the ratio of n to the sum of m and p is between 2:1 and 4:1.

[0131] Furthermore, the solid preparation (B) may contain so-called anti-caking agents in order to prevent aggregation or caking of the powder components. Preferably, water-insoluble, hydrophobic or hygroscopic powders such as diatomaceous earth, pyrogenic silica, calcium phosphate, calcium silicate, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, zinc oxide, stearates, fatty amines, etc. are suitable as such anti-caking agents.

[0132] Finally, the preparation (B) may further contain a dust suppressant to prevent the powdery components from forming dust. For this purpose, inert oils can be used in particular. Preferably, the solid cosmetic carrier contains a hydrocarbon oil, such as an ester oil or mineral oil, preferably liquid kerosene, as the dust suppressant.

[0133] Ready-to-use agents are prepared by mixing two preparations (A) and (B) or three preparations (A), (B) and (C) immediately before application to the hair. In the case of ready-to-use agents that are mixed from two or more preparations to form the final application mixture, it may not be important whether two preparations are mixed together first and then a third preparation is added and mixed, or whether all preparations are combined and mixed together. Mixing can be done by stirring in a bowl or cup or by shaking in a sealable container.

[0134] The term "immediately" is to be understood as a period of from a few seconds to an hour, preferably up to 30 minutes, in particular up to 15 minutes.

[0135] Preparations (A), (B) and optionally (C) are used in a method for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the agent is applied to the keratin fibers and left on the fibers for a period of 10 to 60 minutes, after which it is again rinsed off with water or washed off with shampoo.

[0136] Preferably, the exposure time for the ready-to-use lightening agent is 10 to 60 minutes, particularly 15 to 50 minutes, and particularly preferably 20 to 45 minutes. During the time the agent is exposed to the fibers, it may be advantageous to apply a small amount of heat to support the lightening process. Heat can be provided by an external heat source, such as a hot air blower, or by the subject's body heat, especially when lightening hair on a living subject. In the latter option, the area to be lightened is usually covered with a hat. A room temperature exposure step is preferred.

[0137] After the exposure time is over, the remaining lightening agent is washed from the hair with water or a cleanser. In particular, a commercial shampoo can be used as the cleanser, although if the lightening agent contains a carrier with a high surfactant content, the cleanser can be omitted and the rinsing process can be carried out with tap water.

[0138] The preferred embodiments of the agent described above apply to the method mutatis mutandis. [Example]

[0139] 1. Preparation of a ready-to-use lightener by mixing the three preparations (A), (B) and (C) The following formulations were prepared (all data in % by weight unless otherwise stated):

[0140] [Table 3]

[0141] [Table 4]

[0142] [Table 5]

[0143] MGDA: N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-alanine, CAS No. 29578-05-0 Vitamin F: Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid (Polichimica), CAS No. 1106-87-4 Lipoid P20: Soy lecithin, CAS No. 8030-76-0, Lipoid GmbH Ludwigshafen

[0144] [Table 6]

[0145] 2. Dyeing Hair strands (Kerling, Euronaturhaar 4-0) were measured colorimetrically (Datacolor Spectraflash SF 450) and were previously shampooed and dried.

[0146] To prepare the ready-to-use lightening or bleaching agents, in each case 60 g of preparation (A) was mixed with 20 g of preparation (B) and 60 g of preparation (C). The resulting application mixture was applied to hair strands, left for 45 minutes, and then rinsed again with water. The hair strands were then again subjected to colorimetry.

[0147] The higher the ΔL value, the lighter the strands will be compared to untreated hair.

[0148] The higher the ΔE value, the greater the color shift of the strand compared to untreated hair.

[0149] [Table 7]

[0150] 3. Measurement of temperature curve during lightening High metal content strands were used to measure the temperature generated during bleaching. To prepare these hair strands, they were treated as follows: Hair strands (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white, 6-0) were pre-shampooed and then pre-blonded once with a commercial bleaching agent. Pre-blonding was performed to enhance copper absorption into the hair. The pre-blonded strands were doped with copper. For this purpose, 1 g of strand at a time was immersed in 40 g of copper solution (50 ppm copper in water, 16.8 °dH) and left there for 1 minute. The strand was then removed from the solution, gently squeezed, and stored at room temperature. This immersion process was repeated three times for each strand.

[0151] The copper content of each hair strand was then analytically determined. Measurements were performed using atomic emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES) after mineralization of the samples (one strand at a time) in a microwave digestion system using HNO3 / HCl. The average value was calculated from 12 measurements. The average copper content of each hair strand was 3900 mg / kg.

[0152] The application mixture described in point 2 was applied to the hair thus treated. The strands were fitted with Pt100 probes and wrapped in aluminium foil. The reaction temperature was measured and recorded every 5 minutes.

[0153] [Table 8]

[0154] [Table 9]

[0155] The application mixture according to the invention heated up less during application and therefore exhibited a more favourable temperature profile.

[0156] After 45 minutes, the applied mixture was rinsed from each hair strand with water, and the hair strands were then dried.

[0157] 4. Measurement of cysteic acid content Hair damage was measured using the lightened hair strands at point 3. Hair damage for the lightened hair strands was determined by quantitative NIR spectroscopy.

[0158] The spectra were recorded on an MPA® FT-NIR Spetkrometer from Bruker Optik GmbH. The infrared region was measured at 12500 cm -1 From 4000cm -1 The wavelength range is characteristic of overtones and bond vibrations such as CH, OH, and NH groups.

[0159] The sample measurements were performed using an integrating sphere module at six different sample positions for diffuse reflectance. Analysis of the measured NIR spectra revealed that the peak at 7300 cm -1 From 4020cm -1 Wavenumbers in the range of

[0160] The NIR spectrum of cysteine ​​is in the wavenumber range 6200 cm -1 From 5500cm -1 When hair is altered by more severe damage (i.e., when the cysteic acid content of the hair increases), the NIR spectrum shows a characteristic absorption band at 5020 cm -1 From 4020cm -1 The quantitative evaluation of the NIR spectra was computer-assisted.

[0161] [Table 10]

[0162] A reduction in hair damage was measured with the application mixture according to the invention.

[0163] 5. Further Preparation Examples Preparation of a ready-to-use lightener by mixing the two preparations (A) and (B).

[0164] [Table 11]

[0165] [Table 12]

[0166] [Table 13]

[0167] Ready-to-use bleaching agents were prepared by mixing formulation (A) with each one of formulations (B1) to (B8).

[0168] [Table 14]

[0169] Ready-to-use bleaching agents were prepared by mixing formulation (A) with each one of formulations (B9) to (B12). Preferred aspects of the present invention include the following. [1] (a) at least one oxidizing agent (b) General formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R1 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 6 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 Alkyl group, carboxy-C 1 -C 6 represents an alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, R2 and R3 are independently a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 6 Alkyl group, hydroxy-C 2 -C 6 Alkyl group, carboxy-C 1 -C 6 represents an alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, M1, M2 are each independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent, preferably sodium, potassium, half magnesium, half calcium, half zinc, or ammonium ion (NH 4 + ) represents at least one complexing agent (c) at least one radical inhibitor 1. A lightening agent for keratin fibers, particularly human hair, comprising: [2] (a) is at least one oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate. The agent according to [1], characterized in that it contains [3] (a1) hydrogen peroxide and (a2) at least one persulfate selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate The agent according to [1] or [2], characterized in that it contains: [4] The agent according to any one of [1] to [3], characterized in that it contains (a) 0.1 to 12.0 wt %, preferably 0.5 to 10.5 wt %, more preferably 1.0 to 8.5 wt %, even more preferably 1.5 to 7.0 wt %, and most preferably 1.5 to 6.0 wt % of hydrogen peroxide based on the weight of the agent. [5] The agent according to any one of [1] to [4], characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the agent, (a) one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 2.0 to 40.0 wt %, preferably 4.0 to 30.0 wt %, more preferably 6.0 to 20.0 wt %, and most preferably 8.0 to 15.0 wt %. [6] R1 is a hydrogen atom, carboxy-C 1 -C 6 The agent according to any one of [1] to [5], characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (I) which represents an alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, preferably a hydrogen atom, a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. [7] The agent according to any one of [1] to [6], characterized in that it contains at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (I), in which R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a carboxymethyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof. [8] R1 is a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 represents a methyl group; R3 represents a hydrogen atom; The agent according to any one of [1] to [7], characterized by containing at least one complexing agent (b) represented by the general formula (I). [9] R1 represents a hydrogen atom; R2 and R3 are independently a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; The agent according to any one of [1] to [8], characterized by containing at least one complexing agent (b) represented by the general formula (I).

[10] The agent according to any one of [1] to [9], characterized in that it contains one or more complexing agents (b) of formula (I) in a total amount of 0.05 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.2 to 7.5 wt %, more preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt %, and most preferably 1.1 to 4.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the agent.

[11] The agent according to any one of [1] to

[10] , characterized in that it contains at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of unsaturated organic compounds, antioxidants, quinones, and thiols.

[12] Unsaturated C 8 -C 30 The agent according to any one of [1] to

[11] , characterized in that it contains at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of fatty acids and derivatives thereof.

[13] Petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docos-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid, linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid, eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9, 11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-icosa-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid], most preferably linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid and linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid].

[14] General formula (II):

change

[13] , characterized in that it contains at least one radical inhibitor (c) of the above.

[15] At least one of the groups R4 and / or R5 is at least monounsaturated C 15 -C 21 - alkyl groups, particularly preferably at least diunsaturated C 15 -C 21 - alkyl groups, very particularly preferably at least triunsaturated C 15 -C 21 The agent according to

[14] , characterized in that it contains at least one radical inhibitor (c) of the general formula (II) which is an -alkyl group.

[16] The agent according to any one of [1] to

[15] , characterized in that it contains at least one radical inhibitor (c) selected from the group consisting of vitamin F, vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin B, and vitamin H.

[17] The agent according to any one of [1] to

[16] , characterized in that it contains one or more radical inhibitors (c) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.25 to 7.0 wt %, more preferably 0.25 to 6.0 wt %, and most preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the agent.

[18] The agent according to any one of [1] to

[17] , characterized by containing at least one alkalizing agent.

[19] A process for lightening keratin fibers, characterized in that at least two separately packaged preparations (A) and (B) are mixed to form an application mixture, which is applied to the fibers and washed off again after a contact time, said preparation (A) containing hydrogen peroxide (a1) said preparation (B) at least one persulfate (a2) selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate, and at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I) according to items [1] to

[17] , and - at least one radical inhibitor (c) according to any one of [1] to

[17] The process includes:

[20] A process for lightening keratin fibers, characterized in that at least three separately packaged preparations (A), (B) and (C) are mixed to form an application mixture, which is applied to the fibers and washed off again after an exposure time, said preparation (A) containing hydrogen peroxide (a1) the preparation (B) comprises at least one persulfate (a2) selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate, said preparation (C) comprising at least one complexing agent (b) of said general formula (I) according to [1] to

[17] , and At least one radical inhibitor (c) according to [1] to

[17] The process includes:

Claims

1. (a) at least one oxidizing agent (b) General formula (I): 【Chemical 1】 [In the formula, R1 is a hydrogen atom, C １ -C ６ Alkyl group, hydroxy-C ２ -C ６ Alkyl group, carboxy-C １ -C ６ represents an alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, R2 and R3 are independently a hydrogen atom, C １ -C ６ Alkyl group, hydroxy-C ２ -C ６ Alkyl group, carboxy-C １ -C ６ represents an alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, M1 and M2 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or metal ion equivalent. at least one complexing agent of (c) at least one radical inhibitor selected from the group consisting of linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid] and linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid]; A keratin fiber lightening agent comprising:

2. (a) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate; The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises:

3. (a1) hydrogen peroxide and (a2) at least one persulfate selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate; The agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises:

4. 4. The agent according to claim 1, comprising (a) 0.1 to 12.0% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, based on the weight of the agent.

5. 5. The agent according to claim 1, comprising (a) one or more persulfates selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, and sodium peroxodisulfate in a total amount of 2.0 to 40.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

6. R1 is a hydrogen atom, carboxy-C １ -C ６ 6. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least one complexing agent (b) of said general formula (I), which represents an alkyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof.

7. 7. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises at least one complexing agent (b) of the general formula (I), in which R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a carboxymethyl group, or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof.

8. R1 is a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; R2 represents a methyl group; R3 represents a hydrogen atom; 8. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises at least one complexing agent (b) of said general formula (I).

9. R1 represents a hydrogen atom; R2 and R3 are independently a carboxymethyl group or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof; 9. Agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one complexing agent (b) of said general formula (I).

10. 10. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains one or more complexing agents (b) of formula (I) in a total amount of 0.05 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

11. 11. The agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains one or more radical inhibitors (c) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

12. 12. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one alkalizing agent.

13. 1. A process for lightening keratin fibers, characterized in that at least two separately packaged preparations (A) and (B) are mixed to form an application mixture, which is applied to the fibers and washed off again after a contact time, said preparation (A) contains hydrogen peroxide (a1) said preparation (B) at least one persulfate (a2) selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate, and at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I) according to claims 1 to 11, and at least one radical inhibitor (c) according to claims 1 to 11; The process includes:

14. 1. A process for lightening keratin fibers, characterized in that at least three separately packaged preparations (A), (B) and (C) are mixed to form an application mixture, which is applied to the fibers and washed off again after an exposure time, said preparation (A) contains hydrogen peroxide (a1) the preparation (B) comprises at least one persulfate (a2) selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate, - the preparation (C) comprises at least one complexing agent (b) of general formula (I) according to claims 1 to 11, and At least one radical inhibitor (c) according to claims 1 to 11 The process includes:

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