Multi-layer cleansing cosmetics

Abstract

To provide a multilayer cleansing cosmetic that is combined with a glycerol fatty acid ester, a naturally occurring surfactant, to exhibit increased cleansing power and safety and have an appearance appealing to consumers.SOLUTION: As a result of conducting extensive studies, the inventor of the present invention have obtained a multilayer cleansing composition containing the following (a)-(d) as essential components. (a) denotes (poly)glycerol fatty acid esters, classified by HLB under (a1), (a2), and (a3). (a1) is a glycerol fatty acid ester with an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6 and a glycerin polymerization level of 1-10; (a2) is a polyglycerol fatty acid ester with an HLB of 6 or more and less than 12; and (a3) is a polyglycerol fatty acid ester with an HLB of 12 or more and 18 or less. (b) denotes one or more polyols. (c) denotes water. (d) denotes oil.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] This invention relates to a multi-layer cleansing cosmetic. [Background technology]

[0002] In recent years, clean beauty has become a trend in the global personal care market, with a growing preference for natural-concept cosmetics and cleansers containing plant-based ingredients. Generally, "clean" means that products and services should consider the health of people and the environment, and it aligns with the recent trend of SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals). This includes using ingredients that are as environmentally friendly and naturally derived as possible in cosmetics.

[0003] While various surfactants are used in cosmetics, there is a growing tendency to avoid petroleum-derived raw materials, and PEG-based surfactants, which use polyethylene glycol (PEG) as their hydrophilic component, are particularly avoided by consumers. Among consumers, the phrase "PEG-free" is also becoming more widespread, referring to products that do not use PEG-based surfactants.

[0004] Cleansing cosmetics for removing makeup come in various formulations, including oil, cream, gel, and lotion types, and consumers choose and use them according to their preferences. Oil and cream types, which contain oily components, have a certain demand because they blend well with makeup and have high cleansing performance even against highly waterproof mascara, eye makeup, and lipstick. However, their appearance is monotonous and lacks elements that attract consumers. To address this issue, a multi-layer separation type bicontinuous microemulsion cleansing cosmetic with a distinctive appearance has been proposed (Patent Document 1). However, the cleansing cosmetic in Patent Document 1 mainly contains PEG-based surfactants, and there is no mention whatsoever of formulations using naturally derived surfactants such as glycerin fatty acid esters, which are expected in the aforementioned natural concept cosmetics market.

[0005] Furthermore, glycerin-based surfactants are considered safer than PEG-based surfactants because they use glycerin as a starting material in the hydrophilic portion. In fact, glycerin fatty acid esters are used as food additives and are widely known as safe cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, the development of cleansing formulations composed solely of highly safe and naturally derived glycerin fatty acid esters is extremely useful for use around mucous membranes such as the eyes and lips, and increased demand is expected. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0006] [Patent Document 1] International Publication No. 2021 / 075549 [Overview of the Initiative] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0007] The objective of this invention is to provide a multi-layer cleansing cosmetic that has excellent cleansing ability and high safety, as well as an appearance that attracts consumers, by combining glycerin fatty acid esters, which are naturally derived surfactants. [Means for solving the problem]

[0008] As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the inventors of the present invention obtained a multilayer cleansing composition containing the following (a) to (d) as essential components. (a) The groups were divided by HLB value into (a1), (a2), and (a3). (a1) Glycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6, and a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 1 to 10. (a2) Polyglycerol fatty acid esters with an HLB of 6 or more and less than 12 (a3) Polyglycerol fatty acid esters with an HLB of 12 or more and 18 or less (b) One or more polyols (c) water (d) oil [Effects of the Invention]

[0009] According to the present invention, by selecting three specific glycerin fatty acid esters classified by their HLB value and combining them, it is possible to provide an excellent multi-layer cleansing cosmetic that can effectively remove sebum, makeup, and highly waterproof cosmetics from the skin, and furthermore, a multi-layer cleansing cosmetic composed solely of naturally derived ingredients. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0010] The glycerin fatty acid ester of the present invention, having an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6 and a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 1 to 10, is not particularly limited, but it is preferable that the degree of esterification is 1 relative to monoglycerin with a degree of polymerization of 1, the degree of esterification is 1 to 3 relative to diglycerin with a degree of polymerization of 2, the degree of esterification is 3 relative to polyglycerin with a degree of polymerization of 6, and the degree of esterification is 5 relative to polyglycerin with a degree of polymerization of 10.

[0011] The component (a1) of the present invention has an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6, and a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 1 to 10. The fatty acids constituting the glycerin fatty acid ester may be one or more selected from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residues having 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Specifically, examples include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0012] The glycerin fatty acid ester of the present invention, having an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6 and a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 1 to 10, is not particularly limited, but more specifically, includes glyceryl monoundecylenate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-2 monostearate, polyglyceryl-2 monooleate, and polyglyceryl monoisostearate. Polyglyceryl-2, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, etc., of which polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, and polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate are preferred.

[0013] The polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (a2) of the present invention, having an HLB of 6 or more and less than 12, is not particularly limited, but is preferably a glycerin degree of polymerization of 2 to 10. Furthermore, although not particularly limited, is preferably an esterification degree of 1 for polyglycerin with a degree of polymerization of 2 to 6, and an esterification degree of 2 to 4 for polyglycerin with a degree of polymerization of 10. The fatty acids constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester of component (a2) of the present invention may be one or more selected from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residues having 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Specifically, examples include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and isostearic acid.

[0014] The polyglycerin fatty acid esters of component (a2) of the present invention, having an HLB of 6 or more and less than 12, are not particularly limited, but more specifically include polyglyceryl-2 monooleate, polyglyceryl-3 monolaurate, polyglyceryl-4 monostearate, polyglyceryl-4 monooleate, polyglyceryl-6 monomyristate, polyglyceryl-6 monostearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, etc., of which polyglyceryl-4 monooleate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate are more preferred.

[0015] The polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (a3) ​​of the present invention, having an HLB of 12 or more and 18 or less, is not particularly limited, but it is preferably esterified to a degree of 1 with respect to polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 3 to 10. The fatty acids constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester of component (a3) ​​of the present invention may be one or more selected from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residues having 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Specifically, examples include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0016] The polyglycerol fatty acid ester of component (a3) of the present invention having an HLB of 12 or more and 18 or less is not particularly limited, but more specifically, polyglyceryl-3 monocaprylate, polyglyceryl-6 monolaurate, polyglyceryl-6 monomyristate, polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate, polyglyceryl-10 monomyristate, polyglyceryl-10 monostearate, polyglyceryl-10 monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 monooleate, etc. Among these, polyglyceryl-6 monolaurate, polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate, and polyglyceryl-10 monomyristate are preferable.

[0017] The polyol of component (b) of the present invention is not particularly limited, but examples include glycerin, diglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, octanediol, caprylyl glycol, etc. It can be used alone or in combination of two or more. [[ID=​​​​​​​​​​In the multilayer cleansing cosmetic composition of the present invention, the blending ratio of each component is preferably such that the mass ratio of (a) to (c) is {(a1)+(a2)+(a3)} / {(b)+(c)} = 0.1 to 5.0, from the standpoint of dispersibility. More preferably it is 0.2 to 3.0, and even more preferably 0.8 to 2.5.

[0021] In the multilayer cleansing cosmetic composition of the present invention, by including components (a1) to (a3) ​​as essential components, it exhibits excellent cleansing performance (washing ability) and a multilayer separated appearance, and it is preferable that the respective amounts of component (a) in the composition are (a1) 5 to 15% by mass, (a2) 1 to 5% by mass, and (a3) ​​10 to 25% by mass.

[0022] In the multilayer cleansing cosmetic composition of the present invention, the amount of component (d) oil in the composition is preferably 10 to 70% by mass from the viewpoint of appearance and usability.

[0023] The multilayer cleansing cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain water-soluble and / or oil-soluble active ingredients such as thickeners, moisturizing ingredients, whitening ingredients, anti-aging agents, and anti-inflammatory agents, as well as pH adjusters, fragrances, preservatives, and colorants, which are commonly used in cosmetics, as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention. For example, examples of thickeners include xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxide ether, guar gum, carbomer, and (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer, and examples of water-soluble and / or oil-soluble active ingredients include plant extracts, vitamin C derivatives and their salts, retinol derivatives, tocopherol derivatives, and salicylic acid derivatives.

[0024] The multilayer cleansing cosmetic of the present invention has an appearance separated into two or more layers, and when the container is shaken before use, it becomes a transparent to semi-transparent liquid. When left to stand, it returns to an appearance separated into two or more layers. The multi-layer cleansing cosmetic of the present invention can be used by shaking the container, taking an appropriate amount in your hand, and spreading it over the area to be cleansed of skin oils, makeup, etc. Alternatively, it can be used by impregnating a cloth, cotton, paper, etc. with the cosmetic to cleanse skin oils and makeup.

[0025] The present invention will be further described in detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following examples, unless otherwise specified, the amount of the blending refers to mass %. [Examples]

[0026] Example 1 1. Sample preparation The inventive products and comparative products shown in Table 1 were prepared, and each was evaluated. Phase A was heated and melted, then stirred and mixed, after which Phase B was added and mixed until homogeneous to obtain the present invention product and the comparative product.

[0027] The following components were used: (a1) Polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate (product name: NIKKOL Decaglyn 5-ISV), (a2) Polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate (product name: NIKKOL Decaglyn 2-ISV), and (a3) ​​Polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate (product name: NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-L). Component (b) used was 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerin. Purified water was used as component (c). The ingredients used as component (d) were tri(caprylic / capric acid) glyceryl (product name: NIKKOL Triester F-810), methylheptyl laurate (product name: NIKKOL GS-MHL), squalane (product name: NIKKOL Sugar Squalane), and macadamia seed oil (product name: NIKKOL Macadamia Nut Oil). Furthermore, for comparison of component (a), ceteth-15 (product name: NIKKOL BC-15) was used as comparative product 5.

[0028] 2. Assessment of variance Using the sample prepared in step 1 above, the container was shaken and the dispersion state from the upper layer to the lower layer was evaluated. ◎ indicates that the solution dispersed easily and uniformly and was completely transparent; ○ indicates that it dispersed easily and uniformly and was semi-transparent; and × indicates that it required excessive stirring force for practical use or became cloudy and two-phase. These ratings are shown in Table 1.

[0029] 3. Evaluation of separation status The separation state and transparency were evaluated using the samples prepared in step 1 above. The separation state was evaluated by visually observing the appearance of the solution the day after immersion; a complete separation into two layers was marked with ○, and non-uniform separation or no separation at all was marked with ×. For transparency, a completely transparent solution was marked with ○, and a solution that was not completely transparent was marked with ×. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0030] 4.Results Table 1 shows that for (a) to (d), the mass ratio of (b) + (c) to (a1) + (a2) + (a3) ​​is {(a1) + (a2) + (a3)} / {(b) + (c)} = 0.1 to 5.0. When the amount of (d) oil in the composition is 10 to 70% by mass, and the respective amounts of component (a) in the composition are in the ranges of (a1) 5 to 15% by mass, (a2) 1 to 5% by mass, and (a3) ​​10 to 25% by mass, excellent results were observed in terms of dispersibility, separation state, and transparency of the separation layer. Table 2 shows that when glycerin fatty acid esters with an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6, and a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 1 to 10, were substituted with glycerin fatty acid esters with an HLB of less than 3, heterogeneous separation occurred. Furthermore, when components (a) to (d) were deleted or substituted, poor dispersibility and separation were observed, indicating that the inclusion of components (a) to (d) was essential.

[0031] [Table 1]

[0032] [Table 2]

[0033] Example 2 Table 1, Invention 4, was used to compare the developed product with commercially available products using PEG-based surfactants.

[0034] 1. Calculation of the naturally derived index The natural origin index (including water) was calculated based on the "Index labeling for natural and organic cosmetics based on ISO 16128" established by the International Organization for Standardization. This is one of the international standards established against the backdrop of the recent global growth of the natural and organic cosmetics market, and it defines the natural index and organic index of cosmetics, and shows how to calculate the ratio of natural and organic ingredients in cosmetics. In order to calculate the natural origin index in cosmetics, the natural origin index of the raw materials used is also calculated based on their origin and processing method. A natural origin raw material as defined in ISO 16128 is "a raw material produced by a chemical reaction between a 'natural origin portion' obtained from plants, animals, etc., and a 'non-natural origin portion' obtained from petroleum, etc., in which 50% or more of the molecular structure is made up of the natural origin portion." Raw materials in which the non-natural origin portion accounts for 50% or more of the molecular structure have a natural origin index of 0. The calculation results of the natural origin index of the blended surfactants are shown in Table 3.

[0035] 2. Cleansing performance evaluation The cleansing performance of the developed product and commercially available bicontinuous microemulsion cosmetics (PEG-based commercial products) using PEG-based surfactants was compared and evaluated. Cleansing performance was evaluated using commercially available waterproof mascara, liquid foundation, and lipstick.

[0036] A tape with uneven surface (product name: Transpore Surgical Tape, manufactured by 3M) was attached to a slide glass, and 0.02 g of makeup cosmetics was evenly applied to a 2.0 cm square and dried for 1 hour. Then, 0.05 g of the developed product or PEG-based commercially available cosmetics was dropped, and after being kneaded 20 times with a finger, it was tapped 10 times with cotton to adsorb the makeup cosmetics floating on the sample to the cotton. The obtained cotton was photographed together with a color chart for image correction. The color chart for image correction is used when correcting the color tone and size of a photograph. By photographing this together with the subject, the color tone and size can be corrected based on a certain standard. This makes it less likely for color difference errors to occur. Using the image corrected for color tone and size with the color chart, the respective lightness L * (white to black), chroma a * (green to red), chroma b * (blue to yellow) can be calculated. Furthermore, from the obtained L * a * b * it is possible to calculate the color difference (ΔE * ) from the comparative product. The larger the value of ΔE * , the greater the color difference compared to the initial state, and it can be said that more makeup cosmetics are adsorbed to the cotton. The measurement results of the color difference (ΔE * ) are shown in Table 3.

[0037] 3. Evaluation of usability Using the developed product 4 and PEG-based commercially available products, their usability was comparatively evaluated. The evaluation items were elongation during use, ease of rinsing, eye irritation, cleansing power, and moisturizing feeling after rinsing, and a sensory evaluation was conducted by 5 subjects. As the evaluation method, it was evaluated in 5 grades from 1 to 5, and the usability of the developed product 4 was relatively evaluated based on the PEG-based commercially available product, and the average value of 5 people is shown in Table 3.

[0038] <Evaluation criteria: Elongation during use> 1: Does not elongate more than the commercially available product 2: Elongates slightly less than the commercially available product 3: Elongates equally to the commercially available product 4: Elongates slightly more than the commercially available product 5: It stretches more than commercially available products.

[0039] <Evaluation criterion: Ease of rinsing> 1: More difficult to rinse off than commercially available products. 2: Slightly harder to rinse off than commercially available products. 3: Ease of rinsing comparable to commercially available products. 4: Slightly easier to rinse off than commercially available products. 5: Easier to rinse off than commercially available products

[0040] <Evaluation Criteria: Eye Stimulation> 1: More stimulating than commercially available products 2: Slightly more stimulating than commercially available products. 3: Similar level of irritation to commercially available products 4: Slightly less irritating than commercially available products. 5: Less irritating than commercially available products

[0041] <Evaluation Criteria: Cleansing Power> 1: Lower cleansing power than commercially available products 2: Slightly less cleansing power than commercially available products. 3: Cleansing power equivalent to commercially available products 4: Slightly stronger cleansing power than commercially available products 5: It has better cleansing power than commercially available products.

[0042] <Evaluation criteria: Moisture feeling after use> 1: Less moisturizing than commercially available products. 2: Slightly less moisturizing than commercially available products. 3: Moisture level compared to commercially available products 4: It is slightly more moisturizing than commercially available products. 5: It provides more moisture than commercially available products.

[0043] 4. Evaluation of moisturizing effect The moisturizing effect of the developed product 4 and a commercially available PEG-based product was compared and evaluated by measuring skin surface moisture content. The method involved acclimatizing subjects in a constant temperature and humidity chamber for approximately 15 minutes. Then, 0.1 g of the sample was applied to a 2.0 cm square area, and the sample application site was rubbed 10 times with a finger. After rinsing the sample with running water, the skin surface moisture was lightly wiped without rubbing. Using a SKICON200 skin surface moisture analyzer (IBS Co. Ltd.), five measurements were taken for five subjects at the initial value, immediately after wiping, 5 minutes after wiping, and 15 minutes after wiping. The average of three stable measurements was used as the skin surface moisture content for that area. The rate of increase (decrease) of the average skin moisture content at each time point compared to the initial average value was calculated and is shown in Table 3.

[0044] 5.Results As shown in Table 3, the natural origin index for all polyglycerin fatty acid ester-based surfactants used was 1.0, indicating that it was possible to increase the overall natural origin index of the cleansing cosmetic. Regarding cleansing performance, the product showed superior results compared to commercially available PEG-based products in removing waterproof mascara and liquid foundation. Furthermore, its cleansing performance against lipstick was comparable to that of commercially available PEG-based products.

[0045] Regarding the evaluation of usability, when the performance of commercially available PEG-based products was set at a baseline of 3.00, products demonstrating superior performance as cleansing cosmetics in each category showed values ​​higher than 3.00. Development product 4 showed performance equivalent to or superior to commercially available PEG-based products, with values ​​ranging from 3.00 to 3.33 in five categories. In particular, because development product 4 uses highly safe polyglycerin fatty acid esters, it showed a high value of 3.33 for eye irritation when using the cleansing cosmetic, confirming its higher stability. Regarding the evaluation of moisturizing effect, when the initial skin surface moisture content before sample application was set to 1, Invention 4 showed superior results compared to commercially available PEG-based products at both 5 minutes and 15 minutes after washing. In particular, even 15 minutes after wiping, Invention 4 showed a higher skin surface moisture content value than the initial state, demonstrating a superior moisturizing effect compared to commercially available PEG-based products.

[0046] [Table 3] [Industrial applicability]

[0047] According to the present invention, by separating and combining the HLB of polyglycerin fatty acid esters, which are naturally derived surfactants, it is possible to provide a multi-layer cleansing cosmetic that has excellent cleansing ability, high safety, and an appearance that attracts consumers.

Claims

1. A multilayer cleansing composition containing the following (a) to (d) as essential components, with a mass ratio of {(a1) + (a2) + (a3)} / {(b) + (c)} = 0.1 to 5.

0. (a1) 5 to 15% by mass of a glycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of 3 or more and less than 6, and a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 1 to 10. (a2) 1 to 5% by mass of polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of 6 or more and less than 12 (a3) 10 to 25% by mass of polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an HLB of 12 or more and 18 or less (b) One or more polyols (c) water (d) Oil

2. The multilayer cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of component (d) oil in the composition is 10 to 70% by mass.

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