Emulsified cosmetics

Abstract

To provide an emulsified cosmetic containing niacinamide in a high concentration, which gives an elastic feeling of the skin immediately after application, has excellent spreadability and skin compatibility of the cosmetic, gives fresh sense of use and has excellent stability.SOLUTION: There is provided an emulsified cosmetic which comprises the following (A) to (C): (A) 3 mass% or more of niacinamide, (B) as water-spluble polymer, one or more selected from an acryloyldimethyltaurate-containing copolymer, sclerotium gum, an alcaligenes polysaccharide, sodium carboxymethyldextran and xanthan gum and (C) an ester oil having an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic containing a high content of niacinamide.

Background Art

[0002] Niacinamide is an amide compound of nicotinic acid, also known as nicotinamide / niacin / vitamin B3. Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin and is one of the vitamin B group. Deficiency of niacinamide causes deficiency diseases such as pellagra. Niacinamide is used as a component of topical medications for the treatment of acne vulgaris and is also formulated in cosmetics for cosmetic purposes. In Japan, it is approved as an active ingredient for improving wrinkles (niacin for wrinkles) and whitening effect (nicotinamide) in quasi-drugs cosmetics.

[0003] Niacinamide has often been formulated in skincare cosmetics and the like as an active ingredient for improving wrinkles as described above. A high formulation of about 3 to 7% by mass is required to improve wrinkles and impart firmness and elasticity to the skin. However, it is known that the usability decreases when the content of niacinamide is high, and empirically, a decrease in usability is recognized when the content is 3% by mass or more. In particular, the decrease in usability when making an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic is remarkable, and the unique fresh usability, which is an advantage of making an oil-in-water type, is lost, and furthermore, the elongation and skin compatibility, which are important design qualities of the cosmetic, decrease, often causing problems. Generally, in order to improve the usability such as freshness, elongation, and skin compatibility, components such as oils, thickeners, moisturizers, and surfactants contained in the cosmetic are appropriately combined and adjusted. However, when the content of niacinamide is high, it has been difficult to obtain an emulsified cosmetic with improved usability even by such adjustment.

[0004] Furthermore, generally speaking, for wrinkle-improving cosmetics, it is important not only to provide wrinkle-improving effects with long-term use, but also to give a "feeling of immediate wrinkle improvement." The "feeling of immediate wrinkle improvement" is indicated by the feeling of firmness in the skin that can be felt immediately after application. It is known that this feeling of firmness is more noticeable when cosmetics contain solid oils or film-forming agents. However, if solid oils are used in large quantities, especially in oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics, the fresh feel, spreadability, and skin compatibility can be lost, which is a problem. As mentioned earlier, a high concentration of niacinamide reduces the freshness, spreadability, and skin absorption of emulsified cosmetics. Therefore, adding solid oils in the hope of achieving an immediate firming effect risks significantly compromising the desirable user experience, requiring careful consideration. As a result, a product that is not entirely satisfactory has not yet been achieved. What is needed is a cosmetic product that contains a high amount of niacinamide and excels in all aspects: a fresh feel, good spreadability, good skin absorption, and firming effect (immediate effect). In this context, a technology that incorporates a high concentration of niacinamide has been disclosed.

[0005] For example, Patent Document 1 describes the use of cosmetics containing niacinamide, such as stickiness. To address the poor texture, the cosmetic contains propylene glycol or polypropylene glycol, resulting in a non-greasy, oil-like texture that blends well with the skin and provides a firming effect. It also states that it contains a water-retaining oil.

[0006] Furthermore, Patent Document 2 describes a cosmetic composition containing a high amount of niacinamide, and also containing water-soluble polysaccharides and amphiphilic compounds. Viscosity stability of the composition by niacinamide. Sexual problems have been improved.

[0007] Furthermore, Patent Document 3 describes an emulsified composition containing niacinamide, an acyl amino acid derivative, a sterol ester, and a higher alcohol. This emulsified composition provides a feeling of firmness to the skin. However, conventional technologies, as exemplified by Patent Documents 1-3, could achieve one or more of the following: spreadability, skin compatibility, refreshing feel, and firmness. However, they had problems achieving all of these. There is a need for a cosmetic product that contains a high amount of niacinamide and excels in all aspects: refreshing feel, good spreadability, skin compatibility, and firmness. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0008] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2019-131553 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2020-128363 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2016-183152 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0009] The present invention aims to provide an emulsified cosmetic composition containing a high amount of niacinamide that provides a feeling of firmness to the skin immediately after application, has excellent spreadability and skin compatibility, and offers a refreshing feel, while also being highly stable. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] The present invention has the following configuration. (1) An emulsified cosmetic containing (A) to (C). (A) Niacinamide 3% by mass or more (B) Water-soluble polymers: Acryloyldimethyltaurate-containing copolymer, sclerotium gum 、 One or more selected from carboxymethyl dextran sodium and xanthan gum (C) Ester oil with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35 (2)(C)Emulsified cosmetic according to (1), wherein the ester oil with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35 is either or both of dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester and malic acid ester. (3) The emulsified cosmetic composition according to (1) or (2), wherein the emulsifying type is an oil-in-water type. [Effects of the Invention]

[0011] The present invention provides an emulsified cosmetic composition containing a high amount of niacinamide, which gives the skin a firming sensation immediately after application, has excellent spreadability and skin compatibility, provides a refreshing feel, and is highly stable. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0012] The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic composition containing (A) niacinamide in an amount of 3% by mass or more, (B) a specific water-soluble polymer, and (C) an ester oil having an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35. <(A) Ingredient: Niacinamide> The component (A) of this invention, niacinamide, is a nicotinic acid amide compound, also known as nicotinamide (vitamin B3 / niacin), and is a water-soluble vitamin. Niacinamide may be an extract from a natural product or synthesized by a known method. Specifically, those listed in the Japanese Pharmacopoeia can be used. In addition to its wrinkle-improving effect, niacinamide is known to promote blood circulation, improve rough skin, inhibit melanin production, and have a whitening effect.

[0013] In the emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention, the content of component (A) is 3% by mass or more. In order to obtain a skin wrinkle improvement effect at the level of a quasi-drug, the content of component (A) is 3% by mass or more of the total amount of the cosmetic composition, preferably 3 to 10% by mass, more preferably 3 to 7% by mass, and particularly preferably 5 to 7% by mass.

[0014] <(B) component; water-soluble polymer> As the water-soluble polymer of component (B) contained in the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, 、 xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, and a copolymer containing acryloyldimethyltaurine salt. As the copolymer containing acryloyldimethyltaurine salt, a (sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurine) copolymer is preferred. Among these, the copolymer containing acryloyldimethyltaurine salt, sclerotium gum 、 sodium carboxymethyl dextran can be particularly preferably mentioned. In the present invention, one or more of these water-soluble polymers are contained.

[0015] In the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, the content of component (B) can be appropriately set according to the balance with other contained components. Component (B) contributes to the stability, usability, and firmness of the emulsified cosmetic. The content of component (B) is preferably 0.001 to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.003 to 2% by mass, and particularly preferably 0.005 to 1% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0016] <(Component (C); Ester oil with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35)> The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains an ester oil with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35. The IOB value is an abbreviation for Inorganic / Organic Balance (inorganic value / organic value ratio), which represents the ratio of the inorganic value to the organic value and is an index indicating the degree of polarity of an organic compound. Specifically, the IOB value is expressed as IOB value = inorganic value / organic value. Here, for each of the "inorganic value" and "organic value", for example, the "organic value" is 20 for one carbon atom in the molecule, and the "inorganic value" is 100 for one hydroxyl group. The "inorganic value" and "organic value" corresponding to various atoms or functional groups are set, and the IOB value of the organic compound can be calculated by integrating the "inorganic value" and "organic value" of all atoms and functional groups in the organic compound. Examples of ester oils showing an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35 include propylene glycol diisostearate (IOB = 0.15), glycol distearate (IOB = 0.16), tetra(hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid)dipentaerythrityl (IOB: 0.22), isodecyl benzoate (IOB = 0.23), neopentyl glycol dicaprylate (IOB = 0.25), diisostearyl malate (IOB = 0.28), glyceryl diisostearate (IOB = 0.29), hexa(hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid)dipentaerythrityl (IOB = 0.30), trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate (IOB = 0.31), di-2-ethylhexyl succinate (IOB = 0.32), tetra(behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethylhexanoic acid)pentaerythritol (IOB = 0.35), pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (IOB = 0.35), glyceryl (isostearic acid / myristic acid) (IOB = 0.32), etc. One or more of these ester oils can be contained. Among these, compounds classified as pentaerythritol fatty acid esters (pentaerythritol fatty acid esters) and compounds classified as malic acid esters (malic acid esters) are preferable. All of the ester oils listed here are liquid or pasty. The ester oil having an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35, which is the component (C) of the present invention, is preferably liquid or pasty at room temperature.

[0017] In the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, the content of the component (C) can be appropriately set according to the balance with other contained components. The component (C) contributes to the stability, usability, and firmness of the emulsified cosmetic. The content of the component (C) is preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

[0018] (Optional component) The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may further contain at least one base selected from the group consisting of polyol compounds, surfactants, higher alcohols, thickeners, chelating agents, preservatives, and silicones, in addition to the components (A), (B), and (C). The emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain oils other than component (C) and thickeners other than component (B), to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the present invention. It may also contain pH adjusters, UV absorbers, UV scattering agents, other functional ingredients (bioactive ingredients), fragrances, pigments, solvents, and extracts of natural products.

[0019] (Polyol compounds) Examples of polyol compounds include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol (BG), polyethylene glycol, butylethylpropanediol, polypropylene glycol copolymer, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, and ethylhexylglycerin. In particular, it is preferable that the polyol compound be at least one selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, and sorbitol.

[0020] (Surfactants) Examples of surfactants include anionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan oleate, higher fatty acid soap, alkyl sulfate salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphate salts, N-acyl amino acid salts, and acyl N-methyl taurate salts; cationic surfactants such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride and dialkyldimethylammonium chloride; amphoteric surfactants such as cocamidopropyl betaine, alkyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, alkylamidedimethylaminoacetic acid betaine, and 2-alkyl-N-carboxy-N-hydroxyimidazolinium betaine; and nonionic surfactants such as glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, lecithin derivatives (e.g., lysolecithin), polyoxyethylene type (e.g., polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, etc.), polyhydric alcohol ester type, and ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer. In particular, at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, lecithin derivatives, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, and polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters is preferred.

[0021] (High-grade alcohol) Examples of higher alcohols include cetanol, behenyl alcohol, and isohexadecyl alcohol. Of these, behenyl alcohol is preferred.

[0022] (Chelating agent) Examples of chelating agents include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (derivatives) such as etidronic acid and trisodium edetate. Among these, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid is preferred.

[0023] (Preservative) Examples of preservatives include parabens and phenoxyethanol. Examples include methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.

[0024] (silicone) Examples of silicones include methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polyoxyethylene-methylpolysiloxane copolymer, silicone fluid, silicone rubber, and silicone oil.

[0025] The emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention can be a lotion, cream, toner, sunscreen cream, or beauty gel. In particular, a cosmetic composition containing 80-99% by mass of water, such as a toner, is preferred because the excellent feel (freshness) of the present invention can be fully experienced. The emulsion type of the emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably an oil-in-water type. [Examples]

[0026] The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples and comparative examples. <Tests using oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics with compositions from Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-3> 1. Test Method Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics with the compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared. Table 1 is expressed in mass percentage, with the total amount of the cosmetic being 100% by mass.

[0027] [Table 1]

[0028] The compositions of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 all contain 5% by mass of niacinamide as component (A) and 0.005% by mass of xanthan gum as a water-soluble polymer component (B). Example 1 contains tetra(hydroxystearic acid / isostearate)dipentaerythrityl, a liquid ester oil with an IOB value of 0.22, as component (C). Examples 2 and 3 contain hexa(hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid)dipentaerythrityl, a liquid ester oil with an IOB value of 0.30, as component (C). Example 4 contains diisostearyl malate, a liquid ester oil with an IOB value of 0.28, as component (C). Comparative Example 1, on the other hand, does not contain the ester oil specified in the present invention, and instead contains petrolatum, a hydrocarbon oil, as its composition. Comparative Example 2 also does not contain the ester oil specified in the present invention, and instead contains stearyl alcohol (IOB value 0.29, solid form), a higher alcohol, as its composition. Comparative Example 3 contains 5% by mass of niacinamide as component (A) and tetra(hydroxystearic acid / isostearate)dipentaerythrityl, a liquid ester oil with an IOB value of 0.22, as component (C), but does not contain the water-soluble polymer as component (B).

[0029] The cosmetics of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were evaluated according to the following criteria for the following items. The evaluation was determined by a discussion among five experienced sensory evaluators regarding the feel of the product after application.

[0030] 1. Evaluation of spread during application The ease of spreading the cosmetic product was evaluated by applying an appropriate amount to the skin and spreading it in a circular motion with the fingers. ○; It stretches well. There is no resistance. ×; Poor stretchability. There is strong resistance when stretching.

[0031] 2. Evaluation of familiarity An appropriate amount of cosmetic product was applied to the skin and spread over it in a circular motion with the fingers for one minute. The degree to which the product blended into the skin surface was then evaluated sensorily. ○; It has settled in well. ×; It doesn't feel natural. There's still a feeling of foreignness, slipperiness, and sliminess.

[0032] 3. Evaluation of firmness After allowing the cosmetic product to fully absorb into the skin, it was left for 5 minutes, and then the firmness was evaluated by gently pressing the applied area with a finger. The formulation of Comparative Example 1 was used as the standard, and the evaluation was based on whether the firmness felt greater than that of Comparative Example 1. ○; I felt a greater firmness compared to the standard product (Comparative Example 1). ×; The firmness is equivalent to or less than that of the standard product (Comparative Example 1).

[0033] 4. Evaluation of freshness during application The freshness of the cosmetic product was evaluated by sensory assessment when an appropriate amount was applied to the skin and spread in a circular motion with the fingers. ○; Fresh and juicy. ×; Not fresh.

[0034] 5. Stability check The prepared emulsified cosmetic was filled into clear glass bottles, sealed tightly, and stored in a constant temperature bath at 50°C. After 30 days, the bottles were removed, and the emulsification state of each sample solution was visually evaluated. The evaluation criteria were the following two-stage evaluation. ○; No separation or precipitation. ×; Separation or precipitation occurs.

[0035] 2. Test Results The evaluation results are shown in the lower section of Table 1. The compositions in Table 1 (Examples 1-4, Comparative Examples 1-3) are all emulsified cosmetics containing a high concentration of niacinamide at 5% by mass. The emulsified cosmetics of Examples 1-4, which adopt the composition of the present invention, all provided a firming sensation to the skin immediately after application compared to the conventional product (Comparative Example 1) (rated ○). Furthermore, the spreadability and skin absorption during application also received ○ ratings, and were judged to be at a sufficient level of quality. In other words, the problem of niacinamide in the conventional technology was resolved. It was found that the poor spreadability during application and poor skin absorption caused by the high concentration of amide could be resolved by adopting the composition of the present invention (A+B+C). The cosmetics of Examples 1 to 4 all had no stability issues and provided a refreshing feel. On the one hand, in Comparative Example 1, there were no problems with elongation during application and skin affinity (〇 evaluation), but it lacked firmness (× evaluation). Also, in Comparative Example 2, although it had firmness (〇 evaluation), elongation and skin affinity were poor (× evaluation). The cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 had no problems with stability, but Comparative Example 2 lacked freshness. The cosmetic of Comparative Example 3 had × evaluations for firmness and stability. From the evaluation results of the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, in an emulsified cosmetic highly containing 3% by mass or more of niacinamide, in order to achieve firmness of the skin (immediate effect), good elongation during application, good skin affinity, fresh feeling in use, and excellent stability, it was found that it was necessary to contain an ester oil with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35 and a water-soluble polymer (B).

[0036] <Test with different water-soluble polymers as Component B> 1. Test method An emulsified cosmetic with the composition shown in Table 2 (Example 5~7 ) was prepared by a conventional method and evaluated in the same manner as above. The composition in Table 2 was expressed in mass% with the total amount of the cosmetic being 100 mass%. Regarding the evaluation of firmness, a "Formulation A" was prepared with the same composition as that of Example 6 except that the water-soluble polymer (sclerotium gum) in the composition was replaced with 0.05 mass% of xanthan gum, and this was evaluated as a standard product (reference). 2. Evaluation of firmness After allowing the cosmetic to fully adapt to the skin, it was left for 5 minutes, and the sensory evaluation of firmness was carried out by gently pressing the applied area with a finger. Based on Formulation A as the standard product, it was evaluated whether it felt firmer than that. ○: Felt firmer than the standard product (Formulation A). ×: Had the same or lower firmness than the standard product (Formulation A). The results are shown in Table 2.

[0037]

Table 2

[0038] Example 5~7The composition of each contains 5% by mass of niacinamide as component (A) and tetra(hydroxystearic acid / isostearate)dipentaerythrityl, an ester oil with an IOB value of 0.22, as component (C). Example 5 contains a sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer as component (B), and Example 6 contains sclerotium gum as component (B). Example 7 is Each component (B) contains carboxymethyl dextran sodium.

[0039] The evaluation results are shown in the lower section of Table 2. That is, the example. 5~7 All of the emulsified cosmetics had good spreadability, blended well with the skin, provided a refreshing feel, and exhibited excellent stability. In terms of firmness, they felt firmer than the standard cosmetic containing xanthan gum (Formulation A), and were evaluated as providing a more desirable firmness. In other words, in an emulsified cosmetic containing 3% by mass or more of niacinamide, in order to obtain a cosmetic that achieves good spreadability, good skin compatibility, immediate firming effect, a refreshing feel, and excellent stability, it is necessary to include (C) an ester oil with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35 and (B) a water-soluble polymer. In particular, in order to obtain a desirable immediate firming effect, (B) the water-soluble polymer should be an acryloyldimethyltaurate-containing copolymer or sclerotium gum. 、 It was found that including one or more of the following carboxymethyl dextran sodiums resulted in better performance.

[0040] <Formulation Example 1: Oil-in-Water Sunscreen Cream> Blend amount (mass%) Niacinamide 5 Titanium dioxide 7 Hydroxide Al 0.9 Dimethicone 2 Cyclopentasiloxane 15 Squalane 5 Isohexadecane 1 Stearic acid 0.7 Tetra(hydroxystearic acid / isostearate)dipentaerythrityl 0.5 (Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate) Copolymer 0.75 Polysorbate 80 0.05 Sorbitan oleate 0.01 Dilauramidoglutamidolynsin Na 1 Pentylene glycol 1 BG 8 Purified water residual The resulting sunscreen cream provided good skin firmness after application. It also received positive evaluations for spreadability, skin absorption, refreshing feel, and emulsification stability.

[0041] <Example prescription> 2 Emulsion> Blend amount (mass%) Niacinamide 5 Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl 2 Diisostearyl malate 1 Behenyl alcohol 0.5 Hydrogenated Polydecene 5 Triethylhexanoin 5 Diphenylsiloxy Phenylen Trimethicone 2 Glyceryl stearylate 0.5 Sorbitan oleate 0.35 Polysorbate 60 0.5 Polyquaternium-51 0.05 Sclerotium gum 0.05 Carbomer K 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.2 BG 5 Glyceryl glucoside 2 Glycerin 10 Fragrance 0.1 Purified water residual The resulting emulsion provided good skin firmness after application. It also received positive evaluations for its spreadability, absorption into the skin, refreshing feel, and emulsification stability.

[0042] <Example prescription> 3 All-in-one gel cosmetic Blend amount (mass%) Niacinamide 5 Glycerin 5 BG 5 Pentylene glycol 2 Rosemary leaf extract 0.1 (Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate) Copolymer 0.75 Polysorbate 60 0.3 Polysorbate 80 0.05 Sorbitan oleate 0.01 Isohexadecane 1 (Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone) Crosspolymer 0.5 Dimethicone 2 Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 3 Squalane 2 Cyanocobalamin 0.01 Rosehip oil 0.03 Purified water residual The resulting all-in-one gel cosmetic received favorable evaluations in all aspects, including skin firmness after application, spreadability during application, skin absorption, refreshing feel, and emulsification stability.

Claims

[Claim 1] An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing (A) to (C). (A) Niacinamide in an amount of 3 to 7% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic product (B) One or more water-soluble polymers selected from (sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate) copolymer, sclerotium gum, and sodium carboxymethyl dextran in an amount of 0.05 to 1% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition. (C) One or more ester oils with an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35 selected from tetra(hydroxystearate / isostearate)dipentaerythrityl (IOB: 0.22), diisostearyl malate (IOB: 0.28), and hexa(hydroxystearate / stearate / rosinate)dipentaerythrityl (IOB: 0.30), in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by mass of the total amount of cosmetic.

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