Process for preparing w / o type cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of: (1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing, (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase; (2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing, (b-1) water, and (b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase; (3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase; and (4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts. The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is soft even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of wax, and can provide a comfortable feeling during use.

Description

DESCRIPTIONTITLE OF INVENTIONPROCESS FOR PREPARING W / O TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONTECHNICAL FIELDThe present invention relates to a process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion.BACKGROUND ARTIn general, when a makeup product, especially a lip product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, is used on a keratin substance such as the lips, it is preferable for the makeup product to provide, during and after use, a comfortable feeling and good makeup effects on the keratin substance.WO 2018 / 115328 discloses a lipstick in the form of a W / O type solid emulsion which includes a continuous fatty phase and dispersed aqueous phases. This lipstick can provide a fresh sensation upon use, and hydrate the lips.DISCLOSURE OF INVENTIONIn general, a lipstick includes a wax to maintain a solid stick form. If the amount of wax in the lipstick is increased, the hardness of the lipstick may also be increased. However, the increase in hardness of a lipstick may provide poor applicability, which may result in uncomfortable feeling during use.An objective of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing a cosmetic composition which is soft, even if the cosmetic composition can include a relatively large amount of wax, and is comfortable during use.The above objective can be achieved by a process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and(a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and(4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, whereinthe mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.In the process according to the present invention, the temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts may be below 90°C, preferably below 85 °C, and more preferably below 80°C.In the process according to the present invention, the mixture obtained by the step (3) may be subjected to a shear stress during the step (4) after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.In the process according to the present invention, the mixture obtained by the step (3) may also be subjected to a shear stress during the step (4) before the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.In the process according to the present invention, the shear stress may be applied to the mixture obtained by the step (3) with at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder, and a static mixer.In the process according to the present invention, the shear stress may be applied to the mixture obtained by the step (3) with at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high pressure homogeniser and an ultrasonicator.The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step (5) of further mixing at least one additional ingredient with the mixture obtained by the step (3), after the step (3) and before the step (4).The W / O type cosmetic composition may have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, and more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.The amount of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% to 45% by weight, preferably 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by weight or more, preferably 13% by weight or more, and more preferably 14% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% to 30% by weight, preferably 13% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The W / O type cosmetic composition may satisfy the following conditions: the (a-2) crystallisable wax comprises (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of 80°C or more, (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of less than 80°C, and (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax; and the amount of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of 80°C or more is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisablewax(es) having a melting point of 80°C or more, and the (a-2- 1-2) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of less than 80°C, and the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax(es).The amount of the (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The present invention also relates to a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition, and more preferably a lipstick composition, prepared by the process according to the present invention.The present invention also relates to a process for controlling wax crystallization in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the process comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and(a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and(4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to form the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGSFigure 1 shows a longitudinal sectional view an example of a device for applying mild shear stress.Figure 2 shows a cross sectional view an example of a device for applying mild shear stress.Figure 3 shows a microscopic photograph of the composition according to Example 1 which was subjected to X-ray CT scanning.Figure 4 shows a microscopic photograph of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which was subjected to X-ray CT scanning.BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTIONAfter diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition which is soft, even if the cosmetic composition can include a relatively large amount of wax, and is comfortable during use.Thus, the present invention relates to a process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and(a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and(4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.The process according to the present invention can prepare a W / O type cosmetic composition which is soft even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of wax. In other words, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is soft even if the composition incudes a relatively large amount of wax.The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide a comfortable feeling during use. For example, it can provide smooth gliding, a deposit of the composition in an appropriate amount, a soft touch feeling, and a melting feeling. Therefore, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention has excellent usability.Furthermore, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide good makeup effects after use.For example, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide long-lasting makeup effects against, for example, sebum or water, provided by, for example, sweat or rain, as well as less color transfer to a subject which contacts a keratin substance to which the composition has been applied.The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is suitable for lipsticks.Hereafter, the process according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner. First, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention will be described, followed by the steps in the process according to the present invention.[Composition]In the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention, a plurality of the (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in the (a) fatty phase. The (b) aqueous phases arediscontinuous phases, while the (a) fatty phase is a continuous phase. Here, this form is referred to as “W / O type”.The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention comprises:(a) a continuous or outer fatty phase comprising(a-1) at least one oil, and(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax; and(b) a plurality of dispersed, discontinuous or inner aqueous phases comprising (b-1) water.The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 27% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a) fatty phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 27% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b) aqueous phases in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Oil)The W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-1) at least one oil. If two or more (a-1) oils are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-1) oil can be present in the (a) fatty phase.Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.The (a-1) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.The (a-1) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen, especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters, and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, coco-caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2- ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.If they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethyl cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula:Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l ’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 1 O’6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:in whichRi to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is not 0.Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenatedpolyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.The term “fatty” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce- C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the W / O type cosmetic composition is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.It is also preferable that the (a- 1) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g / mol.Preferably, the (a-1) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g / mol, chosen amongester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylylether.It is preferable that the (a-1) oil be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.In one embodiment, the (a) fatty phase may comprise:(a- 1-1) at least one volatile oil, preferably volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as isododecane and isohexadecane; and(a- 1-2) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably non-volatile non-polar oil, and more preferably non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.It may be preferable that the (a) fatty phase comprises a limited amount of silicone oil such as less than 10% by weight or less, less than 5% by weight or less, and less than 1% by weight or less. It may be more preferable that the (a) fatty phase comprises no silicone oil.According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition is devoid of silicone oil.The amount of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 15% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Wax)The W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-2) at least one crystallisable wax. If two or more (a-2) crystallisable waxes are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-2) crystallisable wax can be present in the (a) fatty phase.The term "wax" is understood, within the meaning of the present invention, to mean a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change in state, and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C.The melting point of wax here means a temperature at which the entire wax is melted.The (a-2) crystallisable wax may be selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and mixturesthereof, preferably selected from polar ester waxes, non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.The amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by weight or more, preferably 13% by weight or more, and more preferably 14% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition maybe from 12% to 30% by weight, preferably from 13% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Non-Polar Wax:Preferably, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-2-1) at least one non-polar crystallisable wax. If two or more (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable waxes are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax can be present in the (a) fatty phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax may have a melting point of 35°C to 130°C, preferably 40°C to 125°C, and more preferably 45°C to 120°C.The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, crystallization of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax starts at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "non-polar” wax means a wax for which the solubility parameter δaat 25°C as defined below is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1 / ?.The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).According to this Hansen space: δD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts; δPcharacterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; δh characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonds, etc.); and δais determined by the equation: δa= (8P2+ 8h2)' / 2.The parameters δP, δh, δDand δaare expressed in (J / cm3)1 / -.The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax may be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax may be, in particular, selected from hydrocarbon waxes composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and devoid of heteroatoms, such as N, 0, Si and P.As examples of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax, mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic wax, paraffin waxes, and ozokerite.According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises at least one polyethylene wax. Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell, and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.The polyethylene wax may be in the form of a powder. As examples of such a powdery wax, mention may be made polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.According to another preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises at least one microcrystalline wax. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn, and Micro wax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax may be obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process. Thus, the synthetic wax may be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. As example of synthetic wax, mention may be made of CireWax 90 by the company DKSH Japan.According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises at least one paraffin wax. Typically, the paraffin wax is composed of C16-C40 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C16-C40 hydrocarbons, and more preferably linear C20-C40 hydrocarbons.The molecular weight of paraffin wax may be from 300 to 550.As ozokerite, mention may be made of that sold under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P.It is preferable that the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises(a-2-1 -1) at least one non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of 80°C or more, and(a-2-1 -2) at least one non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of less than 80°C.The (a-2-1 -1) non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of 80°C or more may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, and a mixture thereof.The (a-2-1 -2) non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of less than 80°C may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes, and more preferably paraffin wax, ozokerite, and a mixture thereof.The amount of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 6% by weight or more, preferably 8% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 17% by weight or less, preferably 16% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 6% to 17% by weight, preferably from 8% to 16% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2-1 -1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of 80°C or more may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of 80°C or more, the (a-2-1 -2) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of less than 80°C, and the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax(es) described below.Polar Wax:Preferably, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-2-2) at least one polar crystallisable wax. If two or more (a-2-2) polar crystallisable waxes are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax can be present in the (a) fatty phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.In particular, the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax may have a melting point of 60°C to 120°C, preferably 70°C to 110°C, and more preferably 80°C to 100°C.The (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, crystallization of the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax starts at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.The (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax may be of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.It is preferable that the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax have a chemical structure formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax for which the solubility parameter δaat 25°C is anything other than 0 (J / cm3)^.The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).According to this Hansen space:8D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;8Pcharacterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;5h characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonds, etc.); and δais determined by the equation: δa= ( δa2+The parameters δP, δh, δDand δaare expressed in (J / cm3)^.The (a-2-2) polar crystallisable waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluoro or silicone waxes. The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. The term "fluoro wax" means a wax comprising at least one fluorine atom, especially comprising at least one perfluoro groups. The term "silicone wax" means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, especially comprising Si-0 groups.According to a preferred embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax is a hydrocarbon wax.As a polar hydrocarbon wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is in particular preferred.The expression "ester wax" is understood according to the present invention to mean a wax comprising at least one ester functional group.According to the present invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e., comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.The following may especially be used as ester wax:- ester waxes such as those chosen from: i) Waxes of the formula R1COOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and the melting point of which varies from 25°C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as an ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® or Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: Glycol Montanate) sold by the company Clariant. ii) Bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T- 4S® by the company Heterene.iii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3and R5are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. iv) Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190. Mention may be made, as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, of those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57. v) Mention may also be made of beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises a polar crystallisable wax derived from plants, such as jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and acacia decurrens flower wax.According to another embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax may be an alcohol wax.Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include, for example, the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.The (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax may be a silicone wax, for instance siliconized beeswax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition is devoid of any silicone wax.In particular, the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax may be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, and more preferably jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax, acacia decurrens flower wax, and a mixture thereof.The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be less than 7% by weight or less, preferably less than 6% by weight or less, and more preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 0.01% to less than 7% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to less than 6% byweight, and more preferably from 0.1% to less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.{Optional Ingredient for Fatty Phase}The (a) fatty phase may comprise (a-3) at least one optional ingredient. If two or more (a-3) optional ingredients for the (a) fatty phase are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-3) optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase may be selected from indene resins, filmforming polymers, and mixtures thereof.(Indene Resin)The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (a-3-1) at least one indene resin. If two or more (a-3-1) indene resins are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-3-1) indene resin can be present in the (a) fatty phase.The (a-3-1) indene resin can function as a lipophilic thickener.According to the present invention, the "lipophilic thickener" may increase the viscosity of the (a) fatty phase into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s'1(the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resin has a number- average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, especially ranging from 250 to 5000 g / mol, and better still, less than or equal to 2000 g / mol and especially ranging from 250 to 2000 g / mol.The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).The (a-3-1) indene resin means resins derived from, at least, indene. The (a-3-1) indene resin may be a homopolymer of indene, or a copolymer of indene and any other optional comonomer. It is preferable that the comonomer is selected from polymerizable hydrocarbons, preferably hydrocarbons having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymer” means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these units(s) are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.The (a-3-1) indene resin may be selected from indene hydrocarbon-based resins.The indene hydrocarbon-based resins may be derived from the polymerization in major proportion of an indene monomer and in minor proportion of a hydrocarbon-based monomer which may be chosen from styrene, methylindene and methylstyrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins may have a molecular weightranging from 290 to 1150 g / mol. Examples of indene resins that may be mentioned include those sold under the names Escorez 7105 by the company Exxon Chem., Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by the company Neville Chem., Norsolene SI 05 by the company Sartomer, Picco 6100 by the company Hercules and Resinall by the company Resinall Corp., or the hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers sold under the name "Regalite" by the company Eastman Chemical, in particular Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1 125 Hydrocarbon Resin;According to one preferred embodiment, the resin is chosen from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, i.e., hydrogenated copolymers of styrene, methylstyrene and indene.In particular, use may be made of hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, such as those sold under the name Regalite by the company Eastman Chemical, such as Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin.The amount of the (a-3-1) indene resin(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-3-1) indene resin(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-3-1) indene resin(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Film-Forming Polymer)The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (a-3-2) at least one film-forming polymer. If two or more (a-3-2) film-forming polymers are used, they may be the same or different.The (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is different from the (a-3-1) indene resin.The (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be lipophilic and may be present in the (a) fatty phase.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymer” means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds known as monomers). This or these units(s) are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film- forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to a support, especially to keratin materials, preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that the said film may be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example, when the said film is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface, for instance, a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from the group comprising: film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium; film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone-based or hydrocarbon-based oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous dispersions of polymer comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often referred to as “NADs”; and film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in water, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into the water, the polymer particles possibly being stabilized at their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often referred to as “lattices”; in this case, the composition must comprise an aqueous phase.Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone block polymers, block ethylenic polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carboxiloxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsilixane groups, silicone resins, lipodispersible polymers in the form of a nonaqueous dispersion of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and olefin copolymers with controlled and moderate crystallization, hydrocarbonbased resins having a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / ml, and a mixture thereof, more preferably from silicone resins.The (a-3-2) film- forming polymer may be any silicone resin which has film-forming properties.According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from silsesquioxane, siloxysilicate and a resin obtained by hydroxysilylation.The nomenclature of the silicone resin is known in the art under the name of “MDTQ” nomenclature, by which a silicone resin is described according to the various repeating siloxane monomer moieties which constitute the polymer. Each letter of “MDTQ” corresponds to a different type of moiety.The symbol “M” corresponds to the monofunctional moiety (CELOsSiOm. This moiety is regarded as monofunctional because the silicon atom shares only one oxygen for the formation of the chain. The “M” moiety can be represented by the following structure:At least one of the methyl groups can be replaced so as to, for example, produce a moiety with the following formula: [R(CH3)2] SiO1 / 2, such as that represented by the following structure:in which R is other than a methyl group.The symbol “D” corresponds to the difunctional moiety (CH3)SiC>2 / 2 in which two of the available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The “D” moiety, which is the essential component element of the dimethicone oils, can be represented by the following formula:The symbol “T” corresponds to the trifunctional moiety (CH3)SiO3 / 2, in which three of the available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The “T” moiety can be represented by the following structure:As in the “M” moiety, any one of the methyl groups can be replaced in “D” or “T” by an R group which is other than methyl.Finally, the symbol “Q” corresponds to a quadrifunctional moiety SiO4 / 2, in which all four available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The “Q” moiety can be represented by the following structure:As described above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film- forming polymer may be selected from the siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane and a resin obtained byhydroxysililation. Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane or resin obtained by hydroxysilylation, which acts as a film-forming polymer, can be used in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer, such as a silicone resin, is crosslinked.According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from substituted siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane and resin obtained by hydroxysilylation. A substituted siloxysilicate or a substituted silsesquioxane may be, for example, a siloxysilicate or a silsesquioxane in which a methyl group has been replaced by a longer carbon chain, such as an ethane, propane or butane chain. The carbon chain may be saturated or nonsaturated.According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from siloxysilicate, such as MQ resins represented by the following formula: [(CH3)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ moieties) in which x and y may have values ranging from 20 to 100, preferably 50 to 80.According to another embodiment of the present invention, a siloxysilicate may be selected from all the combinations of M and of Q moieties such as, for example, [(R)3Si]x(SiO4 / 2)y, in which R is selected from a methyl group and a longer carbon chain.According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be selected from silsesquioxane represented by the following formula:(CH3SiO3 / 2)x(T moieties), in which x has a value which can range up to several thousands and the CH3 can be replaced by an R, such as described hereinabove for the T moieties.Most preferably, the (a-3-2) film- forming polymer is trimethylsiloxysilicate, for example, sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials under the name SR 1000 MQ Resin.The amount of the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Water)The W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (b-1) water.The (b-1) water can be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.The amount of the (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.{Optional Ingredient for Aqueous Phase}The (b) aqueous phase may comprise (b-2) at least one optional ingredient. If two or more (b- 2) optional ingredients for the (b) aqueous phase are used, they may be the same or different.The (b-2) optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase may be selected from hydrophilic thickeners, polyols, and mixtures thereof.(Hydrophilic Thickener)The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (b-2- 1) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be the same or different.The (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener is present in the (b) aqueous phase.According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" may increase the viscosity of the (b) aqueous phase into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s'1(the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).The (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) are preferentially chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.The examples of the non-associative thickening polymer include hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, such as sodium hyaluronate.Non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units that may especially be mentioned include native gums such as: a) tree or shrub exudates, including:- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); b) gums resulting from algae, including:- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums resulting from seeds or tubers, including:- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including:- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts, including:- cellulose (glucose polymer);- starch (glucose polymer); and- inulin.These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of the temperature.Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may especially be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the present invention may be modified with Ci-C6(poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.Among the Ci-Ce (poly)hydroxy alkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.The starches may be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the products sold under the names Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized com distarch phosphate).According to the present invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolyzates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via P-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.Thus, the cellulose polymers that may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e. those which are "non- associative", mention may be made of (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical);(poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aquaion); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci- C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aquaion) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200® and Celquat H 100® by the company National Starch.Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, alone or mixtures thereof.A first family of non-associative thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance, the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold underthe names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.The non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.Furthermore, as the (b-2) hydrophilic thickener, mention may be made of:Crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers, preferably crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylate, and more preferably crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, such as, for example, those sold under the names Octacare XI 00, XI 10 and RM100 by Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1100 by BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer) by Grain Processing, or Aqua Keep 10 SH NF provided by Sumitomo Seika, or Aqupec MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) provided by Sumitomo Seika.The non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document regarding these polymers.The composition may similarly comprise, as non-associative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide.Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst. Reference may be made especially to FR 2 416 723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692 regarding the description and preparation of such compounds.Use may also be made of cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type.Among the hydrophilic-thickening polymers, mention may also be made of associative polymers that are well known to those skilled in the art, and especially of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferablyfrom 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.Among the associative polymers of anionic type that may be mentioned are:(a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid, and most particularly an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof. Among these anionic associative polymers, the ones that are particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide. Among the latter polymers, the ones most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), especially those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).(b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid type. (C10-C30) Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the present invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents US 3,915,921 and US 4,509,949. Among the anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those constituted of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above. Among said polymers above, the ones most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TRI®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®. Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP;(c) maleic anhydride / C3o-C38 a-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride / C3o-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.(d) acrylic terpolymers comprising: i) about 20% to 70% by weight of an a,p-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii) about 20% to 80% by weight of an a,P-monoethylenically unsaturated non- surfactant monomer other than [A], iii) about 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the product of reaction of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109, and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion;(e) copolymers comprising among their monomers an a.p-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. Preferentially, these compounds also comprise, as a monomer, an ester of an a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.An example of a compound of this type that may be mentioned is Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by the company Rohm & Haas.(f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are especially chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22) alkyl sulfonic acids, N-(Ci-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.(Meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance, acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n- butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2- methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more preferentially be used.2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more particularly be used.The polymers of this family may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, p-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomersnot comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, P-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.These copolymers are described especially in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, patent US 5,089,578, and in the following publications from Yotaro Morishima:Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, 3694- 3704;Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000 Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.Among these polymers, mention may be made of: crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (Cg-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (Cg-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5,089,578.Mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n- dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:(a) cationic associative polyurethanes;(b) the compound sold by the company Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate- 1 Crosspolymer. Polyacrylate- 1 Crosspolymer is the product of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units), a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, a hydroxy / Ci-Cfi alkyl) methacrylate, and an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.(c) quatemized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above quatemized celluloses or hydroxyethyl celluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quatemized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B®(C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (Cis alkyl) sold by the company Croda and the product Softest SL 100® sold by the company Aquaion;(d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-OO / 68282.As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl- amidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers are used in particular.The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one noncyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty-chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.Amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention, the ones that are preferred are acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.The associative polymers of nonionic type that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from:(a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, of which, examples that may be mentioned include: the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer), sold by the company ISP, the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer), sold by the company ISP,(b) copolymers of Ci-Cg alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®;(c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;(d) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;(e) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie;(f) celluloses or derivatives thereof, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof wherein the alkyl groups are of Cs, and in particular:* nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS andPolysurf 67 (Ci6 alkyl) sold by the company Aquaion;* nonionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol;* nonionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel;(g) associative guar derivatives, for instance hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: a triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, a multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.The nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxy ethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.By extension, also included among the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the present invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® bearing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® bearing a Cis alkyl chain, from Akzo.The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas bearing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the present invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4- cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].The amount of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Polyol)The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (b-2-2) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b-2-2) polyols may be used in combination.The term “polyol” here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at ambient temperature such as 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.The polyol may be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, C6-C24 polyethyleneglycol, 1,3 -propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1,5 -pentanediol,and a mixture thereof.It is preferable that the (b-2-2) polyol be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and a mixture thereof.The amount of the (b-2-2) polyol(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably from 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b-2-2) polyol(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 20% by weight or less, preferably from 15% by weight or less, and more preferably from 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (b-2-2) polyol(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Coloring Agent)The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (c) at least one coloring agent. If two or more (c) coloring agents are used, they may be the same or different.The (c) coloring agent may be present in the (a) fatty phase or the (b) aqueous phase, depending on the nature of the (c) coloring agent. Thus, the (c) coloring agent may be the optional ingredient (a-3) for the (a) fatty phase or the optional ingredient (b-2) for the (b) aqueous phase, depending on the nature of the (c) coloring agent.In one embodiment, the (c) coloring agent may be selected from dyes, pigments and mixtures thereof.In the present invention, the (c) coloring agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible, or oil-soluble or oil-dispersible or with limited solubility in water.In one embodiment, the (c) coloring agent may be selected from coloring pigments.The term "coloring pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic or organic particles of any shape which are insoluble and are intended to color or dye the skin or the lips.The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.Among the inorganic pigments that may be used, non-limiting mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, zirconium or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, (black, yellow or red) iron or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders, such as aluminum powder or copper powder. The pigments can also be chosen from nanopigments formed of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof. The term "nanopigments" is understood to mean pigments having a mean particle size ranging from 1 nm to 500 nm, such as particle sizes ranging from 10 nm to 100 nm.Among the organic pigments that may be used, non-limiting mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes, such as lakes based on cochineal carmine and on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum. For example, Red 33 (Disodium 5-amino-4- hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonate) and Red 202 (Calcium bis[2-(3-carboxy- 2-hydroxynephthylazo)-5-methylbenzenesulfonate) may be used as the pigment of D&C type.The organic pigment may also be a diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) such as the ones described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A- 96 / 08537.The organic pigment may be selected from bio-pigments such as BioChromaDerm® or BioChromaEyes® provided by Biotic Phocea in France.Preferably, the coloring pigment may be chosen from metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and chromium oxide; manganese violet; Prussian blue; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; ferric blue; aluminum powder; copper powder; carbon black; pigments of D&C type; lakes; pearlescent pigments; and mixtures thereof.The term "pearlescent pigments" should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, such as particles produced by certain shellfish in their shells or otherwise synthesized.The pearlescent agents can be chosen from white pearlescent agents, such as mica covered with titanium dioxide or with bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent agents, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with ferric blue or chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type; and pearlescent agents based on bismuth oxychloride.It is preferable that the (c) coloring agent be selected from hydrophobic pigments.It is preferable that the hydrophobic pigment be selected from hydrophobic-coated pigments. The term "hydrophobic-coated pigment" means any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" means any compound that is soluble or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" means any compound that is insoluble in water.According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, pigments to be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are chosen from inorganic and organic pigments.The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating can be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.For the purpose of the present invention, the "coating" of a pigment generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface-treatment agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. Thus, the hydrophobic pigment may be surface- treated pigments.The surface-treated pigments may be prepared with surface treatment techniques of chemical,electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used as the surface-treated pigments.The surface-treatment agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.According to one variant, the surface treatment is constituted of a coating of the pigments.The hydrophobic pigment may also have at least one coating comprising at least one non- lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, e.g., at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound may be selected from metal hydroxide such as aluminum hydroxide and metal chlorides such as magnesium chloride.This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating can be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.The coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface-treatment agent onto the surface of solid pigment particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface-treatment agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the composition to be used for the present invention.The coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface-treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface-treatment agent and the particles. This method is especially described in US-B- 4,578,266.The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface-treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface-treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, pigments may be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound chosen from silicon-based surface-treatment agents; fluoro surface-treatment agents; fluorosilicone surface-treatment agents; metal soaps; fatty acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; monoalkyl triacyl titanate such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.It is more preferable that the (c) coloring agent be selected from mono-alkyl tri-acyl titanate- treated pigments. In a preferred embodiment, pigments suitable for use in the present invention are treated, e.g., coated or surrounded, with monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Monoalkyl triacyl titanate, also referred to as monoalkyl titanate, may be represented by the formula RO- Ti-(OR’)3, wherein R is alkyl and R’ is a acyl group which can be the same or different.In certain embodiments of the monoalkyl triacyl titanate, said alkyl is C1-5 -alkyl, in particular is Ci -4 -alkyl group and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or from an acrylic acid derivative, e.g., methacrylic acid, or from a fatty acid. Acyl groups in particular are derived from a C6-30 fatty, more in particular from a C 12-24 fatty acid, even more particularly from a C16-20 fatty acid. Such fatty acids may be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic,hydroxyl stearic, and oleic acid. The acyl groups in these triacyl titanates can be the same or different. A preferred embodiment is mono-isopropyl triacyl titanate, see U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 20050019284 (specifically paragraphs

[0038] -

[0052] ).According to a preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate, isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate.Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), which may also be referred to as isopropyl titanium triisostearate.The mono-alkyl tri-acyl titanate-treated pigment may be an isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment.The mono-alkyl tri-acyl titanate-treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate. The mono-alkyl tri-acyl titanate-treated pigment may be treated only with monoalkyl triacyl titanate, or treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate and at least one additional surface-treating agent such as a fluorinated surface-treating agent or a silicone- based surface-treating agent such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl poly dimethyl siloxy ethyl dimethicone.For example, the isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). The isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment may be treated only with isopropyl triiso stearoyl titanate (ITT), or treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface-treating agent, such as a fluorinated surface-treating agent or a silicone-based surface-treating agent such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.Mentions may be made of isopropyl triisostearyol titanate treated pigments sold by, for example, KOBO under the tradename BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triiso stearate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWBO- 12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and / or TiOz CR-50 12 (Titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with Alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).The amount of the (c) coloring agent(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (c) coloring agent(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (c) coloring agent(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Additional Optional Ingredients)The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, fillers, cationic,anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, UV filters, preservatives, or the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.[Preparation Process]The W / O type cosmetic composition described above can be prepared by mixing the abovedescribed essential and optional ingredients in a specific manner.According to the present invention, the W / O type cosmetic composition can be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and(a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and(4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.In the step (1), a (a) fatty phase is prepared by mixing, at least, (a-1) at least one oil(s) and (a- 2) at least one crystallisable wax which has already been melted. If necessary, (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase may also be mixed to form the (a) fatty phase. As examples of the (a-3) optional ingredient, mention may be made of (a-3- 1) indene resins, (a-3 -2) film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof, as explained above.The (a) fatty phase prepared by the step (1) is in the form of a fluid, such as a liquid.The step (1) may be performed at any temperature as long as the (a) fatty phase is fluid.In one embodiment, the step (1) can be performed at a temperature above the melting point of the (a-2) crystallisable wax. For example, the step (1) may be performed at 80°C or more, preferably 85°C or more, and more preferably 90°C or more. If two or more crystallisable waxes are used, the step (1) should be performed at a temperature above the highest melting point among the melting points of the crystallisable waxes.In the step (2), an (b) aqueous phase is prepared by mixing, at least, (b-1) water. If necessary, (b-2) at least one optional ingredient(s) for the (b) aqueous phase may also be mixed to form the (b) aqueous phase. As examples of the (b-2) optional ingredient, mention may be made of (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickeners, (b-2-2) polyols, and mixtures thereof.The (b) aqueous phase prepared by the step (2) is in the form of a fluid, such as a liquid.The step (2) may also be performed at any temperature as long as the (b) aqueous phase is fluid. It is preferable that the step (2) be performed at an elevated temperature. It may be preferable that the step (2) be performed at 60° C or more, preferably 70°C or more, and more preferably 80°C or more.In the step (3), the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase are mixed at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase.In one embodiment, the step (3) can be performed at a temperature above the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallisable wax.The (a-2) crystallisable wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.It may be preferable that the step (3) be performed at 60°C or more, preferably 70°C or more, and more preferably 80°C or more. In the mixture, the (a) fatty phase may constitute a continuous phase and the (b) aqueous phase may constitute dispersed phases.In the step (4), the above mixture thus obtained by the step (3) is cooled to obtain the W / O type cosmetic composition.During the step (4), the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress, at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts. Thus, shear stress can be applied to the above mixture, at least, at the crystallization temperature of the (a- 2) wax.The temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts may be below 90°C, preferably below 85°C, and more preferably below 80°C.It may be preferable that, in the step (4), the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by the step (3) be subjected to a shear stress after the crystallization of the (a- 2) crystallisable wax starts.It may also be preferable that, in the step (4), the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by the step (3) be subjected to a shear stress also before the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.Thus, it may be preferable to apply shear stress before and / or after the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts. In one embodiment, shear stress can be applied to the above mixture below and / or above the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallisable wax, such as in a range of the crystallization temperature of ±15°C, preferably the crystallization temperature of ±10°C, and more preferably the crystallization temperature of ±5 °C. For example, if the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallisable wax is 75 °C, shear stress can be applied, at least, at75 °C, and can be applied at 75°C±15°C, preferably at 75°C±10°C, and more preferably at 75°C±5°C.The method of applying shear stress is not limited. Any conventional device to cause shear stress can be used.For example, in the step (4), the shear stress may be applied to the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by the step (3) with: at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder, and a static mixer; and / or at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high pressure homogeniser and an ultrasonicator.It is preferable to use a device for applying mild shear stress. One example of such a device is explained below.Figs. 1 and 2 show a longitudinal sectional view and a cross sectional view, respectively, of such a device 1.The device 1 shown in Figs. 1 and 2 comprises a cylinder 11 which includes a cylindrical space 12. In the space 12, a rotor 13 in the form of a rod is present along the longitudinal direction of the cylinder 11 such that the rotor 13 is rotatable along the central axis of the cylindrical space 12 by the driving force provided by a motor or the like which is not shown in Figs. 1 and 2.In the embodiment shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the rotor 13 is equipped with two blades 14,14, each of which is fixed to the rotor 13 with a blade fixation 15, and extends along the rotor 13. The blades 14,14 can rotate in the cylindrical space 12 as shown in Fig. 2. The number of the blades is not limited. In the device 1 shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the number of the blades is two.The edge of each of the blades 14,14 is close to the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12, such that shear stress can form and apply between the edge of the blade 14 and the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12.The device 1 shown in Figs. 1 and 2 is not of the batch type but of the continuous type. Thus, the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase can be introduced into the cylindrical space 12 via the inlet 16, and discharged from the outlet 17.In the cylindrical space 12, the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase can pass the gap between the edge of the blade 14 and the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12, and shear stress can apply to the mixture when passing the gap.It is preferable that the cylinder 11 have at least one external jacket including a heating or cooling medium such that the temperature in the cylindrical space 12 can be controlled well. Thus, it is preferable that the device 1 have at least one sensor to detect the temperature in the cylindrical space 12, and at least one control means to control the temperature in the cylindrical space 12.Thus, a W / O type cosmetic composition can be obtained by applying shear stress, duringcooling, to the above mixture, at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts. In other words, shear stress may have been applied to the W / O cosmetic composition, at least, at a crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallisable wax.Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the application of shear stress when the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts or at a crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallisable wax can control the formation of seed crystals of the (a-2) crystallisable wax, which can form a uniform distribution of wax crystals with a new network structure that can contribute to softness.Thus, a W / O type cosmetic composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and dispersed aqueous phases can be obtained.The process according to the present invention may further comprise a step (5) of further mixing at least one additional ingredient with the mixture of the (a) fatty phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by the step (3), after the step (3) and before the step (4). As the additional ingredient(s), mention may be made of (c) coloring agent, as explained above.[Form]The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is of the W / O type.The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion.It is preferable that the composition prepared by the process according the present invention be a water-in- wax / oil type composition, more preferably a water-in- wax / oil type emulsion.The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention may be a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, in particular if the composition includes at least one emulsifier such as a surfactant.It is preferable for the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is in the form of a solid. The term “solid” here means a state which is not flowable under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa) and at room temperature (25°C).The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention may have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, and more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.The hardness here of a composition can be assessed using the "cheese wire" method. This method involves cutting the composition in the form of a 9 mm diameter stick with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20°C and measuring its hardness, using a force measurement machine such as Chatillon™ from Ametek. The hardness from this method can be expressed in grams per mm as the maximum shear force required to cut the stick under the above conditions.[Cosmetic Use and Process]The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition, and more preferably a lipstick.The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments, preferably makeup, of a keratin substance such as the skin and the surface of a mucous membrane, e.g., the lips.Thus, the present invention may relate to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin and lips, comprising: applying onto the keratin substance the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention.For example, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for making up a keratin substance such as the skin and the surface of a mucous membrane, comprising the step of applying, onto the keratin substance, the composition.The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide cosmetic, in particular makeup, effects such as coloring the keratin substance. Furthermore, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can exert long- lasting makeup effects and / or anti-color transfer effects.The present invention may also relate to a use of shear stress in the manufacture of a W / O type cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) a continuous fatty phase comprising(a-1) at least one oil, and(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax; and(b) dispersed aqueous phases comprising(b-1) water, at a crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallisable wax, in order for the composition have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, and more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.The present invention also relates to a process for controlling wax crystallization in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the process comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and(a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and(4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to form the W / O type cosmetic composition, whereinthe mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.EXAMPLESThe present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.Example 1 and Comparative Example 1[Preparations]The compositions according to Example (Ex.) 1 and Comparative Example (Comp. Ex.) 1 in the form of a lipstick were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows.(Example 1)For Example 1, shear stress was applied during cooling from 90°C to 70°C. The detailed procedure is as follows.All the ingredients for an oil phase other than the pigments and volatile oils (isododecane and isohexadecane) in Table 1 were filled into a vessel and heated up to 90°C to ensure complete melting, followed by mixing and then cooling down to 85°C to obtain a premix for an oil phase.On the other hand, a premix for an aqueous phase was prepared by mixing all the ingredients for the aqueous phase (those shown in Table 1).The premix for the aqueous phase (85°C) was added to the premix for an oil phase, followed by mixing such that emulsification was carried out for 10 minutes. Then, pigments and volatile oils were added to the vessel and mixed together for 5 minutes in order to obtain a mixture of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.Then, the above mixture thus obtained was moved from the above vessel to the device shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and cooled down to 70°C under shearing stress using the device at 1,500 rpm, and then discharged from the device at 70°C into a cylinder mold which had been preheated to 60°C.The cylinder mold was cooled to room temperature (25°C), and the composition according to Example 1 in the form of a lipstick was discharged from the mold.(Comparative Example 1)For Comparative Example 1, shear stress was not applied during cooling from 90°C to 70°C. The detailed procedure is as follows.All the ingredients for an oil phase other than the pigments and volatile oils (isododecane and isohexadecane) in Table 1 were filled into a vessel and heated up to 90°C to ensure completemelting, followed by mixing and then cooling down to 85°C to obtain a premix for an oil phase.On the other hand, a premix for an aqueous phase was prepared by mixing all the ingredients for the aqueous phase (those shown in Table 1).The premix for the aqueous phase (85°C) was added to the premix for an oil phase, followed by mixing such that emulsification was carried out for 10 minutes. Then, pigments and volatile oils were added to the vessel and mixed together for 5 minutes in order to obtain a mixture of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.Then, the mixture thus obtained was cooled down to 70°C without any shearing stress, and then discharged from the vessel at 70°C into a cylinder mold which had been pre-heated to 60°C.The cylinder mold was cooled to room temperature (25 °C), and the composition according to Example 1 in the form of a lipstick was discharged from the mold.Table 1Table 2[Evaluations](Hardness)The hardness of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was measured at 20°C using a tester (Chatillon™ DFGHS2 by Ametek) wherein the composition was in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 9 mm which was maintained at 20° C for more than 1 day before being cut. The hardness was determined as the maximum shear force (g) per mm when vertically cutting the composition at 1 cm from the edge of the cylinder with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16-0.19 cm / s at 20°C.The results are shown in the “Hardness” row in Table 2.(Static and Dynamic Friction Coefficients / Application Amount)The static and dynamic friction coefficients of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were measured at 20°C by using a tester (HEIDON TRIBOGEAR TYPE 14FW) wherein the composition cut for the above test regarding hardness was used.The cut composition was fixed on the tester such that the cross section revealed by cutting faced a black synthetic leather sheet, and the composition was applied onto the synthetic leather sheet with a vertical load of 50 g and stroked for 8 cm.The amount of the composition applied onto the synthetic leather sheet was also measured.The results are shown in the “Static Friction Coefficient”, “Dynamic Friction Coefficient” and “Application Amount” rows in Table 2.(Sensory Tests)Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto the lips of 4 panelists. The degrees of gliding, deposit, soft touch and melting feeling were evaluated by scoring with 1 to 5. The score was averaged and categorized in accordance with the following criteria:Very Good: from 4 to 5Good: from 3 to less than 4Poor: from 2 to less than 3Very Poor: from 1 to less than 2The results are shown in the “Gliding”, “Deposit”, “Soft Touch” and “Melting Feeling” rows in Table 2.(Microscopic Analysis)The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were subjected to X- ray CT scanning. The microscopic photographs of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are shown in Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, respectively.In the binary images shown in Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, the white areas correspond to those in which wax crystals are present, while the black areas correspond to those in which no wax is present.Fig. 3 shows that the composition according to Example 1 includes a dense but homogeneous distribution of wax crystal particles.On the other hand, Fig. 4 shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 1 includes less homogeneous or uneven distribution of wax crystal particles.(Summary)The composition according to Example 1, which corresponds to the W / O cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention, showed superior softness although it included a relatively large amount of waxes.Further, the composition according to Example 1 had lower friction coefficients and provided a higher application amount of the composition when being applied, which could contribute to smooth application and a sufficient amount of deposit by application.Furthermore, the composition according to Example 1 also showed superior usability in terms of smooth gliding, depositing of the composition in an appropriate amount, a soft touch feeling, and a melting feeling.The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not correspond to the W / O cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to present invention, showed inferior softness, higher friction coefficients, a lower application amount of the composition when being applied, and inferior usability.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and(a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and(4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.

2. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts is below 90°C, preferably below 85°C, and more preferably below 80°C.

3. The process according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4) after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.

4. The process according to Claim 3, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is also subjected to a shear stress during the step (4) before the crystallization of the (a- 2) crystallisable wax starts.

5. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the shear stress is applied to the mixture obtained by the step (3) with at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder, and a static mixer.

6. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the shear stress is applied to the mixture obtained by the step (3) with at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high pressure homogeniser and an ultrasonicator.

7. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the process further comprises a step (5) of further mixing at least one additional ingredient with the mixture obtained by the step (3), after the step (3) and before the step (4).

8. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the W / O type cosmetic composition has a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm, and more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.

9. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 15% to 45% by weight, preferably 20% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 12% by weight or more, preferably 13% by weight or more, and more preferably 14% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.11 . The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (a-2) crystallisable wax(es) in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 12% to 30% by weight, preferably 13% to 25% by weight, and more preferably 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the (a-2) crystallisable wax comprises (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of 80°C or more, (a-2- 1-2) non-polar crystallisable wax having a melting point of less than 80°C, and (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax; and the amount of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of 80°C or more is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of 80°C or more, the (a-2-1- 2) non-polar crystallisable wax(es) having a melting point of less than 80°C, and the (a-2-2) polar crystallisable wax(es).

13. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition is from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup cosmetic composition, and more preferably a lipstick, prepared by the process according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.

15. A process for controlling wax crystallization in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous fatty phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the process comprising the steps of:(1) preparing a fluid (a) fatty phase by mixing,(a-1) at least one oil,(a-2) at least one crystallisable wax which has been melted, and (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fatty phase;(2) preparing a fluid (b) aqueous phase by mixing,(b-1) water, and(b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the fluid (a) fatty phase with the fluid (b) aqueous phase at a temperature where the (a-2) crystallisable wax is not crystalized to obtain a mixture of the fluid (a) fatty phase and the fluid (b) aqueous phase; and (4) cooling the mixture obtained by the step (3) to form the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture obtained by the step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during the step (4), at least, at a temperature where the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallisable wax starts.

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