Mattifying cosmetic composition

A silica-free cosmetic composition using Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch in an oil-in-water emulsion addresses the challenge of achieving mattifying and moisturizing effects in oily compositions, providing a synergistic solution with improved sensory properties and environmental sustainability.

WO2025149552A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-07-17PIERRE FABRE DERMO COSMETIQUE SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2025/050394
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-01-11
Filing Date
2025-01-09
Publication Date
2025-07-17

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions with high oily emollient content struggle to achieve significant mattifying effects without using silica, which is environmentally controversial, while maintaining fluidity, sensory properties, and moisturization, especially in compositions like sunscreens.

Method used

A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch, with minimal aqueous emollients and no gelling agents, provides a synergistic mattifying effect, ensuring fluidity and moisturization without silica.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves a high mattifying power quickly and durably, with a dry touch and good moisturization, while avoiding silica's environmental impact and maintaining sensory qualities.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a mattifying cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which is suitable for topical application to the skin and which is devoid of silica. This composition comprises, in water, a Lens esculenta seed extract, a starch, at least one oily emollient and at least one emulsifier. It is particularly suitable for the care and / or hygiene of greasy and / or acne-prone skin, and / or, when it is provided with at least one sunscreen, for protecting the skin against the sun.
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Description

[0001] MATTIFYING COSMETIC COMPOSITION

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended for the care and / or hygiene of the skin, with mattifying properties, as well as the use of such a cosmetic composition for mattifying the skin.

[0003] Shiny skin is generally linked to excessive sebum secretion. This is a problem that often affects adolescents, but can also manifest in adulthood due to excessive androgen production or external factors such as pollution. Shiny skin can also be linked to sweat, resulting from physical activity or specific weather conditions.

[0004] By definition, a mattifying product is a product that prevents the skin from shining and evens out the complexion. Cosmetic compositions for skin care and / or hygiene with mattifying properties give a matte appearance to the skin, this matte appearance resulting from the light diffusion power of the mattifying substances contained in the composition and deposited on the surface of the skin.

[0005] Mattifying cosmetic compositions are generally used by consumers to solve shine problems caused by excess sebum. The reflections caused by excess sebum on the surface of the skin are generally considered unsightly. Obtaining a matte appearance for the skin is therefore highly sought after by consumers with combination or oily skin, and / or acne-prone skin. A mattifying effect is also expected from cosmetic compositions intended for use in hot and humid climates, such as sunscreen compositions. The need for mattifying properties in such compositions is all the greater since many of them contain oily ingredients necessary for the solubilization of sunscreens, so they tend in themselves to make the skin shine.

[0006] Mattifying compositions can also be used to hide skin imperfections, such as fine lines, pores, microreliefs or color variations, or to improve the hold of makeup on the skin. Shiny skin generally leads to poorer hold of makeup, which tends to deteriorate over the course of the day.

[0007] For a long time, mattifying cosmetic compositions have been formulated using mineral fillers such as silica. Silica is a mineral element used in cosmetics in toothpastes, as an abrasive agent, but also in compositions for topical application to the skin, for its mattifying and smoothing properties. Silica is found very abundantly in nature, in different forms. The silicas used in cosmetic formulations are almost all of synthetic origin, and consist of high-purity silicon dioxide. These silicas come in the form of very fine white powders whose properties depend on the manufacturing method. However, in addition to the fact that its particles have the disadvantage of sedimenting, silica is relatively controversial for application in the cosmetic field, particularly due to the negative environmental impact linked to its production.

[0008] There is currently a need for new cosmetic compositions having good mattifying properties even when devoid of silica. Such a need is particularly difficult to satisfy in the context of cosmetic compositions comprising oily ingredients, such as sunscreen compositions, because these oily ingredients in themselves cause additional shine to the skin. It is in such a context that the present invention falls, and more precisely in that of cosmetic compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high content of oily emollient(s).

[0009] Obtaining good mattifying properties for such cosmetic compositions, without resorting to silica, represents a challenge that is all the more important since these mattifying properties must not be obtained at the expense of:

[0010] - nor the desired fluidity of the compositions, which must have a sufficiently fluid texture to be compatible with application by the users' fingers, and therefore to be easy to spread,

[0011] - nor their sensory properties.

[0012] Document FR 2945209 describes a cosmetic composition based on an extract of Lens esculenta, with a high content of oily emollient(s), and its use for reducing skin shine. To obtain a unifying effect, this document proposes integrating mineral fillers, more particularly silicates, into the composition.

[0013] The present invention aims to provide a fluid cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high content of oily emollient(s), which, while being free of silica, has a significant mattifying effect.

[0014] Additional objectives of the invention are that this cosmetic composition has good sensory properties, in particular a low-stickiness, dry-to-the-touch texture, as well as good moisturizing power.

[0015] Furthermore, an advantage sought by the invention is to minimize the number of ingredients present in this cosmetic composition, and thus to reduce its manufacturing costs.

[0016] The invention further aims to ensure that such properties can be obtained without using controversial substances, and by using a maximum number of ingredients from renewable resources.

[0017] It has now been discovered by the present inventors that, surprisingly, compositions meeting particular characteristics, including in particular a combination of a green lentil extract, a starch and oily emollient(s), with little or no aqueous emollient, as well as little or no gelling agent, make it possible to achieve the objectives mentioned above, even though they are devoid of silica.

[0018] Thus, according to a first aspect, there is provided according to the present invention a mattifying cosmetic composition for the care and / or hygiene of the skin, in particular for the hydration of the skin, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin. This cosmetic composition is free of silica, and it comprises, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0019] - 25 to 65% water,

[0020] - at least one extract of Lens esculenta seed,

[0021] - rice starch, - 10 to 30% oily emollient(s),

[0022] - from 0 to 5% aqueous emollient(s), including no aqueous emollient, or 0.01 to 5% in total aqueous emollient(s),

[0023] - from 0 to 1% of gelling agent(s), in particular no gelling agent, or 0.01 to 1% in total of gelling agent(s),

[0024] - and at least one emulsifier.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silica" is used, in a conventional manner in itself, to refer to the natural form of silicon dioxide SiO2, which is a component of many minerals. Silica exists in the free state in various crystalline or amorphous forms, and in the combined state in silicates, the SiO2 groups then being linked to other atoms (aluminum Al, iron Fe, magnesium Mg, calcium Ca, sodium Na, potassium K, etc.). Thus, the expression "free of silica" also includes that the composition is free of silicates.

[0026] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, that is to say that it comprises an oily phase kept homogeneously dispersed in an aqueous phase, this dispersion being ensured by the emulsifier(s) contained in the composition.

[0027] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 25 to 65% of water, preferably from 30 to 60% of water, more preferably from 30 to 55% of water, more preferably from 35 to 55% of water, preferentially from 40 to 55% of water, or even from 35 to 45% of water.

[0028] As indicated above, it has been discovered by the present inventors that the cosmetic composition according to the invention has, despite the absence of silica, and its high content of oily emollient(s), a high mattifying power. This mattifying power is advantageously obtained by the combined action of starch and Lens esculenta seed extract, which act synergistically. The mattifying effect is furthermore obtained very quickly following the application of the cosmetic composition topically to the skin, in particular in less than 5 minutes, and it is exerted in a prolonged manner over time.This effect is advantageously not obtained to the detriment of the other properties of the composition, which also has good fluidity, also linked to the small quantity of gelling agent(s) it contains, and no, or very little, stickiness, also linked to the small quantity of aqueous emollient(s) it contains, but on the contrary a dry touch. Despite the absence or small quantity of aqueous emollients, it also advantageously has good moisturizing power.

[0029] Generally speaking, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has good sensory qualities.

[0030] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also meet one or more of the characteristics described below, implemented in isolation or in each of their technically effective combinations.

[0031] Generally speaking, all of the ingredients used in the composition according to the invention are compatible with use by topical application to the skin of an individual, in particular a mammal and more particularly a human.

[0032] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one extract of Lens esculenta seed, this species being commonly known as green lentil. This extract is preferably obtained by aqueous extraction. It preferably contains, or consists essentially of, an oligosaccharide fraction, in particular composed mainly of oligosaccharides of the trehalose, maltose, maltotriose, stachyose, verbascose type. In particular embodiments of the invention, the extract of Lens esculenta seed contains from 20 to 40% by weight, in particular from 25 to 35% by weight, of said oligosaccharide fraction, relative to the total weight of the extract (in the dry state).

[0033] The Lens esculenta seed extract incorporated into the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention, for the preparation of the latter, is for example in the form of an aqueous solution, which may also contain additional substances, such as preservatives and / or substances intended in particular to better solubilize the components. Such an aqueous solution may for example contain from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 8% by weight, or from 4 to 6% by weight, of the Lens esculenta seed extract, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.

[0034] The Lens esculenta seed extract can also be characterized by its total reducing sugar content; said content being determined by any conventional method known to those skilled in the art; preferably by the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS M et al. (1956), Analytical chemistry, 28, n°3 p. 350-356).

[0035] The content of total sugars from Lens esculenta seed, these total sugars preferably being composed mainly of said oligosaccharide fraction, in particular for 70 to 90% by weight, in particular 75 to 80% by weight, in such an aqueous solution may for example be between 15 and 25 g / l. An example of such a solution based on Lens esculenta seed extract is marketed under the name p-REFINYL® by the company Silab (aqueous solution containing between 4 and 6% by weight of this extract).

[0036] The composition according to the invention may contain a single extract of Lens esculenta seed, or a plurality of such extracts, each then preferably containing a polysaccharide fraction, in particular an oligosaccharide fraction.

[0037] The total amount of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) in the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.025 and 0.2% by weight, preferably between 0.025 and 0.15% by weight, more preferably between 0.025 and 0.10% by weight, and preferentially between 0.05 and 0.10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The total amount of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) in the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention may for example be between 0.05 and 0.08% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular approximately equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] It has in particular been discovered by the present inventors that such a low concentration of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) makes it possible, in combination with at least one starch, to give the composition very good mattifying power. When the Lens esculenta seed extract(s) are incorporated into the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of aqueous solution(s), in particular containing it at a concentration of between 2 and 8% by weight, for example in the form of the specialty p-REFINYL®, the total quantity of such aqueous solution(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.5 and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 2.5% by weight, more preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 2% by weight, for example between 1 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Even more preferably, the total quantity of such aqueous solution(s) incorporated into the composition according to the invention is approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise rice starch alone or in a mixture with one or a plurality of different additional starches.

[0040] The additional starches that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be derived from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. They may be, for example, corn starch, potato starch, pea starch, oat starch, barley starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, cassaya starch or sorghum starch. Rice starch, and these additional starches, may or may not be modified. A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.

[0041] Preferably, the rice starch of the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention is unmodified. The composition preferably comprises only unmodified starches of plant origin.

[0042] Rice starch (Oryza sativa) is composed of two glucose polymers: amylose and amylopectin. This rice starch is characterized, among other starches, by the smallest starchy granule size, approximately 3 to 8 micrometers, as well as by its greatest whiteness. Furthermore, the safety of rice-based ingredients has been evaluated by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert group, and the conclusions, particularly for rice starch, are that it is safe as a cosmetic ingredient (Int J Toxicol. 2006:25 Suppl 2:91-120.doi: 10.1080 / 10915810600964626).

[0043] Preferably, rice starch is the only starch contained in the composition.

[0044] The total amount of rice starch in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, preferably between 2 and 12% by weight, for example between 2 and 10% by weight, preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, more preferably between 4 and 8% by weight, for example between 4 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] The total amount of starch(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, preferably between 2 and 12% by weight, for example between 2 and 10% by weight, preferably between 3 and 8% by weight, more preferably between 4 and 8% by weight, for example between 4 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Such a total quantity of starch(s) is in particular not detrimental to the desired fluidity of the composition, and does not prevent the obtaining of a composition which is sufficiently fluid for the intended applications.

[0047] An example of a mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention contains, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0048] - 0.025 to 0.10% by weight, for example 0.05 to 0.08% of a Lens esculenta seed extract comprising, or consisting of, an oligosaccharide fraction, for example containing from 20 to 40% by weight, in particular from 25 to 35% by weight, of said oligosaccharide fraction, relative to the total weight of the extract,

[0049] - and 2 to 8%, for example 4 to 6%, of rice starch.

[0050] When the Lens esculenta seed extract(s) are incorporated into the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention in the form of aqueous solution(s), in particular containing it at a concentration of between 2 and 8% by weight, for example in the form of the p-REFINYL® specialty, the weight ratio of “aqueous solution(s) containing the Lens esculenta seed extract(s) / rice starch”, which are incorporated into the composition according to the invention during its preparation, is preferably between 1 / 10 and 10 / 1, more particularly between 1 / 8 and 2 / 1, more particularly still between

[0051] 1 / 6 and 1 / 1, and even more specifically between 1 / 5 and 1 / 2.

[0052] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition does not contain an additional mattifying ingredient compared to the combination of Lens esculenta extract(s) and starch(es).

[0053] In particular, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not contain zinc gluconate.

[0054] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains one or more additional agents, beneficial in helping to combat excess sebum, such as zinc gluconate and / or glyceryl laurate.

[0055] The composition according to the invention may contain a single oily emollient, or a plurality of oily emollients.

[0056] In the present description, the term oily emollient is understood to mean an ingredient present in the oily phase, and providing the composition according to the invention with good sensoriality, and a good capacity for softening the epidermis.

[0057] Each oily emollient present in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from vegetable oils, hydrogenated or not, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty acid esters, and solid fatty substances.

[0058] The expression "solid fatty substances" in the present description includes solid fatty substances which have a melting point less than or equal to 45°C, such as butters, for example shea butter, and solid fatty substances which have a melting point greater than 45°C, such as waxes.

[0059] According to preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain solid fatty substances.

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as oily emollient(s), at least one compound chosen from caprylic / capric triglycerides, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coconut alkanes and coco-caprylate / caprate (INCI Name: Coconut Alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate), and dicaprylyl ether, or any mixture thereof. It preferably does not include any other oily emollients than those listed above.

[0061] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, in total, from 10 to 30% by weight of oily emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, in total, from 15 to 30% by weight of oily emollient(s), preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of oily emollient(s), and more preferably from 20 to 25% by weight of oily emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain aqueous emollient(s), or contains at most 5% by weight, for example between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably at most 4% by weight, for example between 0.01 and 4% by weight, in total of aqueous emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] For the purposes of this description, the term “aqueous emollient” means a polyol. A “polyol” (otherwise known as a polyalcohol) is defined here, in a conventional manner in itself, as a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0065] The polyol(s) that may be contained in the composition according to the invention may be natural or synthetic. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0066] In the particular embodiments in which the composition according to the invention contains at least one aqueous emollient, the latter may be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. At least one aqueous emollient, preferably each of the aqueous emollients, contained in the composition according to the invention, is preferably chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, and polyglycitol.

[0067] Preferably, the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 3% by weight in total of aqueous emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention contains in total less than 2% by weight of aqueous emollient(s), more preferably less than 1% by weight of aqueous emollient(s), and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of aqueous emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Even with such low concentrations of aqueous emollients, or when it does not contain any aqueous emollient, the composition according to the invention still advantageously exhibits a moisturizing action.

[0069] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain a gelling agent, or contains a maximum of 1% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in total of gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] At least one gelling agent, preferably each of the gelling agents, contained in the composition according to the invention, is preferably chosen from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, and Caesalpinia spinosa gum, or any of their mixtures.

[0071] Preferably, the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.8% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, in total, of gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more emulsifiers, advantageously chosen from emulsifying agents capable of forming oil-in-water emulsions.The emulsifying agent(s) may, for example, be chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, the products marketed under the names Montanov® 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) and Montanov® 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside), potassium cetyl phosphate, glucoside waxes, glyceryl stearate citrate, lauryl glucoside and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® VL 75, lecithins, in particular hydrogenated soy lecithin, glycerol monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium stearoyl glutamate, in particular the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® SG, sodium stearoyl, sucrose stearate, etc.

[0072] In particular embodiments of the invention, the emulsifier(s) are present in the composition in a total content of 2 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, preferentially 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 6 to 8% by weight, or 2 to 6% by weight, in particular 2 to 5% by weight, for example 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such contents advantageously make it possible to obtain good stability of the emulsion and good sensoriality.

[0073] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more consistency factors.

[0074] This or these consistency factors are then preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, hydrogenated vegetable oils and other waxy bodies.

[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains only one consistency factor.

[0076] The total content of consistency factor(s) in the composition is preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example less than or equal to 4% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetically active agents for the care and / or hygiene of the skin.

[0077] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition comprises at least one sunscreen.

[0078] A sunscreen is any substance capable of filtering solar radiation, particularly the sun's ultraviolet (UV) radiation, to protect the skin from the harmful effects of this radiation. Such a substance can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0079] A sunscreen, or each of the sunscreens, contained in the composition according to the invention, may be chosen from those conventionally known, including:

[0080] - organic sunscreens such as triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, merocyanine derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, |3,|3'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, and benzylmalonate derivatives; and

[0081] - inorganic sunscreens such as coated or uncoated metal oxides, such as titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium oxides.

[0082] A sunscreen can be "lipo-soluble" or "water-soluble", depending on whether it dissolves more easily in lipids or in water, or "insoluble". A non-soluble sunscreen is typically in particulate form, and can nevertheless be incorporated into a sunscreen composition, in particular in a dispersed form, in particular water-dispersed when it is dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0083] In particular advantageous embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition does not, however, comprise ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4. Octocrylene, like ethylhexyl salicylate, are suspected of being potential endocrine disruptors. Other sunscreens present in many commercial products are also subject to controversy, due to their potentially harmful effects for the user or for the environment.Examples include cinnamate derivatives (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate), homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA), camphor (3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor) or benzophenone (benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4). The use of such compounds is therefore not desirable. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises at least one sunscreen, excluding ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

[0084] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition comprises at least one sunscreen, in particular a liposoluble UV filter, in particular chosen from:

[0085] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (CAS No.: 302776-68-7), also known as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or DHHB, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul® A Plus, a liposoluble UVA filter with a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 354 nm;

[0086] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No. 187393-00-6), also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or BEMT, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® S®, a liposoluble broadband filter, having two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm;

[0087] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone, or DBT (chemical name: 4,4'-[[6-[[4-[[(1,1-dimethylethyl)amino]carbonyl]phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]diimino]bis-, bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate; CAS No.: 154702-15-5), in particular as marketed by 3V Sigma under the name Uvasorb® HE, a fat-soluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 310 nm; ethylhexyl triazone or EHT (chemical name: 4-[[4,6-bis[[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester; CAS No.: 88122-99-00), in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul® T 150, a fat-soluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 314 nm; and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, or 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical name: 1,4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione;CAS No.: 70356-09-1), also known as avobenzone or BMDBM, in particular as marketed by DSM under the name Parsol® 1789, a fat-soluble UVA filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax equal to 357 nm; or it contains a mixture of such fat-soluble sunscreens.;

[0088] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition comprises at least one liposoluble UV filter chosen from:

[0089] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate;

[0090] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine;

[0091] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone;

[0092] - and ethylhexyl triazone; or it contains one of their mixtures.

[0093] A number of sunscreens are not sufficiently photostable, that is to say they tend to degrade during prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and therefore no longer sufficiently protect the user. It is particularly well known that the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane molecule, a UVA filter widely used in commercial sunscreen products, cleaves into different chemical constituents devoid of absorbent capacity when it is subjected to UV irradiation, if it is not combined with other compounds making it possible to improve its photostability. Consequently, preferably, the mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0094] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition further comprises at least one sunscreen, in particular a UV filter, of particulate organic type, in particular chosen from the following filters:

[0095] - 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)-bis[1,2,4]triazine (CAS No.: 55514-22-2), also called phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine;

[0096] - methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (chemical name: 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol; CAS No. 103597-45-1), also known as MBBT, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® M;

[0097] - and 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No. 31274-51-8), also known as trisbiphenyl triazine or TBPT, in particular as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B; or it contains one of their mixtures.

[0098] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition comprises: a / at least one liposoluble UV filter chosen from:

[0099] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate;

[0100] - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine;

[0101] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone;

[0102] - ethylhexyl triazone;

[0103] - butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane;

[0104] - or any of their mixtures, b / and at least one particulate organic UV filter chosen from:

[0105] - 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)-bis[1,2,4]triazine;

[0106] - methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol;

[0107] - and 2, 4, 6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine;

[0108] - or any of their mixtures.

[0109] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition does not comprise any water-soluble sunscreen. Alternatively, it may contain at least one water-soluble sunscreen, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0110] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of volatile silicones (also called volatile silicone oils). Volatile silicones are short-chain cyclic polymers of general formula [Si-(CH3)2-O]n with n=3-7. Generally called cyclomethicone, regardless of the number of units, the most common are cyclotetrasiloxane (n=4) and cyclopentasiloxane (n=5), but cyclotrisiloxane (n=3), cyclohexasiloxane (n=6) and cycloheptasiloxane (n=7) may also be mentioned. Volatile silicones are substances known to be accumulative for the environment and non-biodegradable due to their high stability. Studies have shown that cyclopentasiloxane, for example, has a potential for bioaccumulation in aquatic environments (Gobas et al., 2015, Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry, 34, 12:2703-2714).

[0111] More generally, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatile ingredients. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile ingredients" means non-alcoholic organic or inorganic compounds such as esters, silicones or alkanes, characterized by a flash point below 60°C.

[0112] By "flash point" (noted PE), we mean, in a classical way in itself, the minimum temperature at which a combustible substance emits vapors in sufficient concentration to form with the ambient air a gaseous mixture which ignites on contact with a flame or a hot point, but insufficient for combustion to propagate by itself in the absence of the so-called pilot flame. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272 / 2008 on the classification, labeling and packaging of substances and mixtures, a substance with a PE such as 23°C < PE < 60°C belongs to category 3 "low flammability".

[0113] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is in particular preferentially free of volatile esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and / or volatile alkanes, such as isohexadecane.

[0114] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more monoalcohols. However, it is preferably free of monoalcohols.

[0115] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is furthermore free of essential oils. Indeed, most essential oils contain allergens, a source of irritation and skin intolerance. Dyes with the same characteristics are preferably also avoided for similar reasons.

[0116] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0117] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition is free of microplastics.

[0118] The term "microplastic" within the meaning of the present invention designates microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the draft amendment to Annex XVII of REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006, D083921 / 01 of September 5, 2022 ("COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) ... / ... of XXX amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) as regards synthetic polymer microparticles" accessible in particular at the url address: https: / / ec.europa.eu / transparency / comitology-register / screen / documents / 083921 / 1 / consult?lang=en).According to this document, microplastics, or synthetic polymer microparticles, are defined as polymers that are solid and either are contained in particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of those particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, where at least 1% by weight of those particles meet one of the following conditions: (a) all particle dimensions are less than or equal to 5 mm; (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length to diameter ratio is greater than 3. The following polymers are excluded from this designation:.

[0119] (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances;

[0120] (b) polymers which are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex [X] of the document;

[0121] (c) polymers which have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex [Y] of the document (solubility test in water at pH 7 with stirring for 24 h at 20 °C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 ml_, according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the

[0122] OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals);

[0123] (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure.

[0124] Microparticles of synthetic polymers covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0125] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles with all dimensions less than 5 mm, formed or coated with synthetic solid organic polymer(s) that are insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0126] Thus, in particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free of microplastic polyquaterniums, ingredients used in many cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art.

[0127] It is also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0128] On the other hand, in particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular chosen from the group consisting of (INCI names):

[0129] - Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,

[0130] - Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer,

[0131] - Sodium Polyacrylate,

[0132] - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer,

[0133] - Acrylates Copolymer,

[0134] - Polyacrylate-13,

[0135] - Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer,

[0136] - Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer,

[0137] - Polyacrylamide,

[0138] - VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, utilisés seuls ou dans l’un quelconque de leurs mélanges.

[0139] The mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention may further contain any cosmetically compatible additive or excipient which is conventional in itself, such as a maintenance agent, a preservative, a perfume, a coloring agent, etc. The composition according to the invention may be in any form which is conventional in itself, this form being suitable for topical application to the skin and mucous membranes. It may in particular, but not limited to, be in the form of a fluid emulsion, a rich emulsion, a cream, a milk, a lotion.

[0140] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the mattifying cosmetic composition has a dynamic viscosity at 25°C + / - 2°C of less than 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 700 and 5000 mPa.s, and for example between 1500 and 4000 mPa.s. This viscosity can for example be measured using a Brookfield viscometer by applying the following parameters: spindle 5, speed 100 rpm, for 1 minute.

[0141] The composition according to the invention may be intended to be applied to the skin of the face and / or body. It may, for example, be in the form of a protective, treatment or care cream or balm for the face, hands and / or body, or a protective, treatment or care body lotion.

[0142] For example, it can be sprayable, particularly to make a sunscreen or lotion.

[0143] Another subject of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care and / or hygiene of the skin, and in particular for mattifying the skin. This use comprises the application of the cosmetic composition topically to the skin and / or mucous membranes of an individual, in particular a mammal and preferably a human.

[0144] Mattifying, in a classic way in itself, means totally or partially reducing the shiny appearance of the skin, that is to say giving it a more matte appearance, and / or unifying the complexion.

[0145] The skin to which the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied is preferably healthy skin. It may in particular be so-called combination or oily skin. Thanks to its action on the dullness of the skin, the composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for oily skin. The application can also be carried out on acne-prone skin. It can also be carried out on normal or dry skin.

[0146] The application can be repeated as often as necessary, including once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, for a period of several days to several months.

[0147] The composition is preferably used to mattify the skin immediately after application of the composition. By immediately, we mean that the mattifying effect is achieved in less than 5 minutes after application.

[0148] The invention is also expressed in terms of a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for the skin of an individual, more particularly for mattifying said skin, this method comprising the application of a mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention topically to the skin.

[0149] This method may meet one or more of the characteristics stated above with reference to the cosmetic use of a mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0150] Another subject of the invention is the therapeutic use of a mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising at least one sunscreen, for the sun protection of the skin and / or mucous membranes of an individual, this use comprising the application of the composition topically to the skin and / or mucous membranes. The individual may be a mammal, in particular a human.Preferably, the composition does not comprise ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4. The composition according to the invention can, for example, be applied topically to the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips, or of the body, in an effective amount, as often as necessary before or during exposure to solar radiation.

[0151] This use may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention. The invention also relates to a therapeutic method for sun protection of an area of ​​skin of an individual, in particular a human, this method comprising the topical application, to this area of ​​skin, of an effective amount of a mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention containing at least one sunscreen, said cosmetic composition preferably not comprising ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

[0152] This method may meet one or more of the characteristics stated above with reference to the therapeutic use of a mattifying cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0153] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the implementation examples below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention.

[0154] 1 / Example 1 - Study of the mattifying effect of the combination of rice starch / Lens esculenta seed extract

[0155] The aim of this study is to measure the mattifying effect of the combination of rice starch and Lens esculenta seed extract using a glossy meter (GL 200 glossy meter probe connected to the MDD4 Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH base).

[0156] The Glossy Meter assesses the skin's surface luster or shine by measuring reflected light. When the probe is placed on the skin, light is projected by the probe and reflected at a 60° angle by a set of mirrors. Both directly reflected light (i.e., luster) and diffuse light are then measured. The device also provides a correction index to reduce the influence of diffuse reflection, which is affected by skin color. This device is therefore particularly suitable for assessing the mattifying effect of a product.

[0157] In this experiment, skin brightness is measured on the forearm: a 6 cm area of ​​skin 2(2 x 3 cm) is delimited on the inner side of the forearm, 0.67 pl of jojoba oil is applied and the skin is massaged for approximately 30 seconds until completely absorbed. A first measurement with the glossy meter is taken (T0, before application of the product). Then 2 pl / cm 2 of product is applied, followed by a one-minute massage (30 seconds of vertical spreading and 30 seconds of horizontal spreading). Then 2 glossy meter measurements are taken, 15 minutes and 2 hours after applying the product. Applying jojoba oil beforehand helps to imitate oily, shiny skin.

[0158] For each product tested, the % change in skin shine following application of the product is calculated according to the equation (a negative % change being representative of a mattifying effect): % change = ((Tfinal - TO) / TO) x 100.

[0159] Two series of experiments are conducted.

[0160] In the first series (Series 1), 2 products are tested (n= 5, for each product):

[0161] - Lens esculenta seed extract (provided by the commercial material p-REFINYL®) alone, at 0.05% by weight in an aqueous composition,

[0162] - combination of the same Lens esculenta seed extract, at 0.05% by weight, and rice starch (INCI name: Oriza sativa starch), at 4% by weight, in the same aqueous composition.

[0163] For each measurement time, the results obtained in terms of % change in brightness for Lens esculenta seed extract alone are normalized to 1, and the % decrease from this value, obtained for the combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch, is determined. In the second series (Series 2), 2 products are tested (n= 5):

[0164] - rice starch (INCI name: Oriza sativa starch) alone, at 4% by weight in the aqueous composition,

[0165] - combination of the same Lens esculenta seed extract, at 0.05% by weight, and the same rice starch, at 4% by weight, in the same aqueous composition.

[0166] For each measurement time, the results obtained in terms of % change in brightness for rice starch alone are normalized to 1, and the % decrease from this value, obtained for the combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch, is determined.

[0167] The results obtained are summarized in Table 1 below.

[0168] Table 1 - Evaluation of skin shine by glossymeter

[0169] As early as 15 minutes after application of the tested products, a much more marked reduction in skin shine was observed with the combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch recommended by the invention, than for the extract alone and rice starch alone. This effect was doubled 2 hours after application.

[0170] In addition, 2 hours after application, the following evolutionary % are determined:

[0171] - Series 1: Lens esculenta seed extract alone -11%, combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch in accordance with the invention -23%;

[0172] - Series 2: rice starch alone -4%, combination of Lens esculenta seed extract and rice starch according to the invention -17%.

[0173] These results demonstrate that Lens esculenta seed extract (0.05%) alone, like rice starch (4%) alone, have no, or very little, mattifying effect even 2 hours after application. On the other hand, the combination of these two substances in accordance with the invention has a significant mattifying effect, much greater than the sum of the effects of the individual substances, which clearly demonstrates a synergy of action of these two substances.

[0174] 2 / Example 2 - Cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention and moisturizing power

[0175] A composition in accordance with the invention, called C1, corresponds to the composition indicated in table 2 below.

[0176]

[0177] Table 2 - Composition C1 in accordance with the invention

[0178] This composition is notably devoid of aqueous emollient.

[0179] The skin hydration capacity of this composition was determined. To do this, a study measuring a hydration index was carried out on 20 subjects. Skin capacitance was measured by corneometry. The corneometer is a simple device which, when applied to the skin, measures its dielectric capacity using a capacitor. This is directly linked to its hydration state. These measurements are carried out at different times (1 h, 2 h and 4 h) after application of composition C1 to the skin of the test subjects, and compared to that obtained for a group of untreated subjects. The results obtained, in terms of % increase in the skin hydration index for subjects treated with composition C1, compared to untreated subjects, are summarized in Table 3 below.

[0180] Table 3 - Hydration capacity of composition C1 - *P<0.05 versus untreated group and versus TO (before application); **P<0.001 versus untreated group and versus TO

[0181] It therefore appears that composition C1 according to the invention is moisturizing, for at least 4 hours, despite in particular the absence of aqueous emollient such as glycerin in its composition.

[0182] 3 / Example 3 - Clinical effect of a composition in accordance with the invention

[0183] A study is carried out on 22 subjects in order to study the evolution of the shine of an area treated with composition C1 in accordance with the invention at the forehead, by a single topical application of 0.1 ml of the composition on the skin.

[0184] Skin gloss measurements are taken using a glossy meter before application (Tini), then immediately after (T0), then 1 h (T1 h), 3 h (T3h) and 6 h (T6h) after application.

[0185] To participate in the study, subjects must have shiny skin on their foreheads.

[0186] The mattifying effect due to the application of composition C1 is calculated in relation to an untreated area, always at the forehead, using the equation above (% variation in shine level = ((Tmeasured - Tcontrol area) / Tcontrol area) x 100). The statistics are carried out in relation to the untreated area, and versus Tini.

[0187] The results are summarized in Table 4 below.

[0188] Table 4 - Effect of composition C1 on skin shine - **: p<0.001 versus untreated and Tini

[0189] These results highlight a mattifying effect immediately after application of the composition according to the invention. This mattifying effect is very important because it continues over time significantly at least

[0190] 6 hours after a single application of the composition on the skin.

[0191] 4 / Example 4 - Sensory test

[0192] The purpose of this test is to compare the sensory characteristics of the composition according to the invention C1 with those of a comparative composition (C2). The evaluation is carried out monadic by 15 volunteers trained in the sensory technique for topical products. Three evaluation phases are carried out: upon application of 0.15 ml of composition on each cheek, and 5 min after and 15 min after application.

[0193] The tests are carried out in a room where the lighting, temperature and humidity are monitored.

[0194] La composition comparative C2 est une formule disponible sur le marché, qui contient de la silice, et contient les ingrédients suivants (noms INCI) : Aqua (Water), Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dimethicone, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Silica, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lauryl PEG / PPG- 18 / 18 Methicone, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrated Silica, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Parfum (Fragrance), Sclerotium Gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid.

[0195] Different criteria are evaluated and are detailed in Table 5 (for phase (1): upon application) and Table 6 (for phases (2) and (3): respectively 5 min and 15 min after application below).

[0196] Table 5 - Phase (1) evaluation criteria

[0197] Table 6 - Evaluation criteria for phases (2) and (3)

[0198] A computer questionnaire presents unstructured analog measurement scales from 0 to 100, for each of the descriptive criteria of the different phases on the computer screen.

[0199] The results are summarized in Table 7 below.

[0200] Table 7 - Sensory evaluation of a composition according to the invention C1 and a comparative composition C2

[0201] It should be noted that the sensory analysis results of these two compositions are very similar. One of the main criteria identified in this study is mattness or the absence of shine. The inventors clearly demonstrate that the composition according to the invention C1 meets this objective, since the shine criterion analyzed 5 or 15 minutes after application is lower than the score of 15. The comparative composition with silica C2 does not allow for a lower shine.

[0202] Furthermore, these results demonstrate that the composition according to the invention C1 without silica has very good sensory characteristics, such as good ease of spreading, very little sticky feeling, no or very few white marks on the skin, with a very low oily appearance. It also does not generate a feeling of tightness (the scores obtained for the “Tension” criterion being notably much lower than those obtained for the comparative composition C2), but, on the contrary, a very good feeling of elasticity of the skin (“Suppleness”). This suppleness of the skin felt 5 and 15 minutes after application supports good hydration of the skin due to the composition according to the invention.

[0203] 5 / Example 5 - Consumer test

[0204] 68 consumers accustomed to using cosmetic products tested the composition C1 according to the invention for 14 days. The evaluation was carried out in the form of rating scales from 0 (“I don’t like it at all”) to 10 (“I like it a lot”) or from 0 (“totally disagree”) to 10 (“totally agree”).

[0205] In accordance with ISO 20252, Directives of Commission Regulation (EU) No 655 / 2013 and ASTM E1958 - 16a, the results of such a study provide evidence to support claims about the self-perceived effectiveness of the product and to support claims related to its cosmetic and sensory characteristics. The interpretation thresholds used for this study are shown in Table 8 below (the threshold for a statistically significant value with n=68 is 62%).

[0206] Table 8 - Interpretation thresholds for assessment results

[0207] The results for texture scores at D14 (14 days after application) are as follows:

[0208] - fluid texture: 8.1,

[0209] - light texture: 8.3,

[0210] - non-greasy texture: 8.1,

[0211] - texture with a non-sticky finish: 8.1,

[0212] - texture with a matte finish: 7.0.

[0213] The results relating to the notes concerning the following allegations at D14 are as follows:

[0214] - has an invisible rendering: 8.2,

[0215] - smooths skin texture: 7.7,

[0216] - hydrates my skin: 8.1.

[0217] The results for the scores on the following negative characteristics at D14 are as follows:

[0218] - greasy effect: 2.8,

[0219] - sticky effect: 1.9,

[0220] - irritated skin: 1.5.

[0221] This study highlights the advantages of the texture of the composition according to the invention, with in particular a balance achieved between the matt finish obtained and the fluidity of the composition. It is worth noting very favorable results concerning, among other things, the light and non-greasy texture. Good hydration is also found in the positive characteristics. No negative characteristic obtains a high score. In particular, the composition does not present any greasy or sticky effect.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Mattifying cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, characterized in that it comprises, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - 25 to 65% water, - at least one extract of Lens esculenta seed, - rice starch, - 10 to 30% oily emollient(s), - from 0 to 5% of aqueous emollient(s), - from 0 to 1% of gelling agent(s), - and at least one emulsifier, and in that it is free of silica.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said rice starch is not modified.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, not containing zinc gluconate.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 3, wherein the total amount of Lens esculenta seed extract(s) is between 0.025 and 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 4, in which the total quantity of starch(s) is between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 5, wherein the amount of rice starch is between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5. 6, comprising, as oily emollient(s), at least one compound selected from caprylic / capric triglycerides, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, coconut alkanes and coco-caprylate / caprate (INCI Name: Coconut Alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate), and dicaprylyl ether, or any mixture thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the content of emulsifier(s) is between 2 and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is free from volatile silicones and microplastic acrylates.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising at least one sunscreen, said cosmetic composition not comprising ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene-camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for mattifying the skin, comprising the application of said cosmetic composition topically to the skin.

12. Use according to claim 11, for mattifying the skin immediately after said application.

13. Use according to claim 11 or 12, wherein said skin is acne-prone.

14. A method of non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin of an individual, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 topically to said skin.

15. Composition according to claim 10 for its use for the sun protection of the skin of an individual, comprising the application of said composition topically to said skin.

Citation Information

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