Composition comprising an organic UV-screening agent, a specific hydrophilic gelling polymer and a fatty acid ester of a sugar
A composition combining hydrophilic copolymers and fatty acid esters with specific UV-screening agents addresses the challenges of high UV protection and sensory discomfort, providing stable, non-greasy, and lint-free photoprotection.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/060043
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-04-11
- Filing Date
- 2025-04-11
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing photoprotective compositions face challenges in achieving high UV protection levels while maintaining a pleasant sensory aspect, stability, and avoiding greasy, tacky, and lint-forming issues, which are exacerbated by high contents of UV-screening agents.
A composition comprising a combination of hydrophilic copolymers with acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers and fatty acid esters of sugars, along with specific ratios of hydrophilic and lipophilic UV-screening agents, to stabilize and enhance sensory properties.
The composition achieves high UV protection, stability, and a pleasant, non-greasy, non-tacky finish without linting, ensuring uniform application and long-lasting photoprotection.
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Abstract
Description
Composition comprising an organic UV-screening agent, a specific hydrophilic gelling polymer and a fatty acid ester of a sugar
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, and at least one fatty acid ester of a sugar.
[0002] A wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV-screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and / or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
[0003] It is also known that high contents of screening agents are required to achieve high levels of screening efficiency.
[0004] However, high contents of UV-screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
[0005] Thus, formulations with high screening power can have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations. In particular, the difficulty that comes with photoprotective formulations that have a high protection factor is often that of limiting or even avoiding a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.
[0006] Furthermore, the introduction of a high content of UV-screening agents can cause destabilization problems. This instability may even occasionally cause phase separation of the emulsion and / or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.
[0007] To overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous presentation forms have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents can have the drawback of being tacky and thus uncomfortable, but also very fluid.
[0008] It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing screening agents using polymers. However, this solution is not satisfactory since the structuring polymers generally selected are not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of tack.
[0009] In order to overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, it has already been considered to use aqueous compositions containing UV-screening agents in combination with other specific compounds.
[0010] Thus, the combined use of mineral thickeners of clay type has been proposed for stabilizing the compositions and optionally reducing the tacky nature of photoprotective compositions. However, clays can whiten the compositions, which then lose their transparency properties.
[0011] Moreover, the use of a higher weight ratio of hydrophilic UV-screening agents relative to lipophilic UV-screening agents enables the greasy sensation to be reduced.
[0012] However, sensory discomfort associated with the use of a larger amount of hydrophilic UV-screening agents, and in particular water-soluble UV-screening agents, is sometimes observed, such as “linting”, i.e. the formation of lint when the product is applied and / or after drying and / or penetration of the product into the skin.
[0013] This defect is prohibitive for the user, since the application is neither uniform nor pleasant given this linty effect on application or during removal of the product. It also makes the skin feel “dirty”. This may greatly affect the photoprotective properties of suncare compositions.
[0014] It is consequently difficult to reconcile in the same photoprotective composition opposing technical performance qualities, such as a high level of UV protection, which usually entails a greasy and tacky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory aspect manifested in particular by a feeling of freshness on application, and an absence of linting.
[0015] There is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.
[0016] In particular, there is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which has pleasant sensory properties, does not form lint during and after application, is advantageously refreshing and is preferably transparent on the skin.
[0017] This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the greater since the daily photoprotection market is growing rapidly. Increasing numbers of hybrid products providing skincare and SPF 15-20 protection are being launched, but the challenge remains of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensory aspect for daily application.
[0018] It is therefore sought to have a product with a high SPF while at the same time keeping the sensory codes of skin care: appearance, texture, consistency, sensory aspect.
[0019] In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory aspect, notably with a fondant sensory aspect and a non-greasy, non-tacky finish, with less or even no appearance of lint during and after application, while at the same time allowing a high level of daily photoprotection.
[0020] In particular, the aim of the invention is to develop a product which affords good homogeneity of the composition and good quality of deposition of the composition on the skin so as notably to obtain an advantageous sensory aspect such as reduced or even no appearance of lint during and after application, while at the same time affording a high level of daily photoprotection.
[0021] There is also a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which is perfectly stable, i.e. not subject to demixing.
[0022] The present invention is precisely directed toward meeting these needs.Disclosure of the invention
[0023] One subject of the present invention is thus a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, and at least one fatty acid ester of a sugar.
[0024] In particular, a subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
[0025] a) at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents;
[0026] b) at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; and
[0027] c) at least one C6-C24 fatty acid ester of a sugar;
[0028] the amount of hydrophilic organic screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0029] the amount of water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] Contrary to all expectation, the inventors have found that the use of one or more hydrophilic copolymers including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer in combination with one or more fatty acid esters of a sugar, in a photoprotective composition comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, affords access to a galenical formulation which has high photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, notably with a non-greasy, non-tacky and non-glossy finish, and which is nevertheless stabilized over time.
[0031] The inventors have notably found that the use of one or more hydrophilic copolymers including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer in combination with one or more fatty acid esters of a sugar, in a photoprotective composition comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent, affords access to a formulation which does not form lint during and after application, even when the composition comprises a large amount of hydrophilic screening agents, and in particular of water-soluble screening agents.
[0032] The composition in accordance with the invention also has, surprisingly, persistence of the photoprotection, in particular of the photoprotection in the UVA range, after exposure to ultraviolet radiation between 290 and 400 nm, the exposure time of which is calculated in accordance with the standard ISO 24443:2012 (Fr).
[0033] Advantageously, the use of this composition affords a presentation form which is stabilized, has a pleasant sensory aspect for everyday use and high UV protective power.
[0034] Thus, this photoprotective composition advantageously allows properties which are generally antagonistic to be combined.
[0035] According to another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin.
[0036] According to yet another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and / or facial skin, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.
[0037] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
[0038] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
[0039] The composition in accordance with the invention shows good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically, after storage for one week, one month, or two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C. A stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its sensorial signature on application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively for example by the absence of any phase-separation phenomenon or appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through the monitoring of the change in parameters such as the viscosity or the pH.
[0040] For the purposes of the present invention, “linting” consists of the appearance of solid, persistent particles on the surface of the skin during spreading. These particles are visible and perceptible under the fingers.
[0041] In the context of the invention, the screening efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of SPF and UVAPF.
[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “SPF” means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time it takes to obtain a sunburn with an antisun composition to the time it takes without a product. More specifically, the term “SPF” is defined in the articleA new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).
[0043] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) may be evaluatedin vitrousing the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the antisun composition is applied. Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) sheets have proven to be ideal for this protocol. A particular protocol, presented as an example, is currently being approved by ISO under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.
[0044] The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of compositions may also be evaluatedin vivoaccording to the protocol ISO / EN 24444: 2019 “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods -in vivodetermination of the sun protection factor (SPF)’.
[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “UVAPF” means the index characterizing the protection against UVA rays. In particular, this index can be measuredin vivoaccording to the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, protocol ISO-24442:2022, and measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA rays. The protection against UVA rays can also be evaluatedin vitrousing the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the antisun composition is applied. Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) sheets have proven to be ideal for this protocol. The ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such anin vitromethod.
[0046] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.
[0047] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
[0048] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (of the body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids or lips, preferably of the body, face and lips).
[0049] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0050] Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”, respectively.
[0051] According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.
[0052] The term “organic UVA-screening agent” refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule may also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
[0053] The term “organic UVB-screening agent” refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
[0054] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.
[0055] The term “emulsion” means any kinetically stable macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases, one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically generally stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.
[0056] A distinction is made between “direct” emulsions of the oil-in-water type, consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase, and “inverse” emulsions of the water-in-oil type, consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.Detailed description of the inventionUV-screening agents
[0057] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one organic UV-screening agent.
[0058] The organic UV-screening agent(s) present in the composition in accordance with the invention may be chosen from lipophilic organic UV-screening agents and hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents.
[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent.Lipophilic organic UV-screening agents
[0060] The term “lipophilic organic screening agent” means any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
[0061] The lipophilic organic screening agents are notably chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, notably those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described notably in patent application WO 93 / 04665; dimeric α-alkylstyrene derivatives, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
[0063] As examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name and / or their chemical name:Cinnamic compounds:
[0064] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate notably sold under the trade name Parsol® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
[0065] Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by the company Symrise,Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
[0066] Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane notably sold under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,Salicylic compounds:
[0067] Homosalate sold under the name Parsol® HMS by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
[0068] Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by the company Symrise,β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds:
[0069] Octocrylene, notably sold under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by the company BASF,Benzophenone compounds:
[0070] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by the company BASF,
[0071] Hexyl (diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by the company BASF,Benzylidenecamphor compounds:
[0072] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by the company Merck,Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:
[0073] Drometrizole trisiloxane manufactured under the name Mexoryl® XL by the company Noveal,
[0074] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:
[0075] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol notably in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100® by the company Fairmount Chemical,Triazine compounds:
[0076] - 3,3’-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), having the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl Triazine,
[0077] - bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by the company BASF,
[0078] - Ethylhexyl triazone, notably sold under the trade name Uvinul® T150 by the company BASF,
[0079] - Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by the company 3V Sigma,
[0080] - the symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups, described in patent US 6 225 467, patent application WO 2004 / 085 412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004),Anthranilic compounds:
[0081] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by the company Symrise,Benzalmalonate compounds:
[0082] Polyorganosiloxane bearing benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by the company Hoffmann-LaRoche.Hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents
[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent” means a water-soluble organic UV-screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV-screening agent.
[0084] The term “water-soluble organic screening agent” means any organic screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0085] The term “water-dispersible organic screening agent” means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume-mean size of less than 100 microns. The volume-mean size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.
[0086] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, notably described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may notably be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is manufactured under the name Mexoryl® SX by the company Noveal.
[0087] These screening agents correspond to the general formula (I) below:
[0088]
[0089] in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R1)3+in which the radicals R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn+, Mn+denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+and Zr4+. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bonds and that all the isomers fall within the context of the present invention.
[0090] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds including at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.
[0091] They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and also in patent application EP-A-0669323.
[0092] The compounds including at least two benzazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the general formula (II) below:
[0093] (II)
[0094] in which:
[0095] - Z represents an organic residue of valency (l + n) including one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a fully conjugated assembly;
[0096] - X’ denotes S, O or NR6;
[0097] - R1denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1to C18alkyl, a C1to C4alkoxy, a C5to C15aryl, a C2to C18acyloxy, or a group SO3Y or COOY;
[0098] - the radicals R2, R3, R4and R5, which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1;
[0099] - R6denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1to C4alkyl or a C1to C4hydroxyalkyl;
[0100] - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, 1 / 2Ca, 1 / 2Mg, 1 / 3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organonitrogen base;
[0101] - m is 0 or 1;
[0102] - n is a number from 2 to 6;
[0103] - l is a number from 1 to 4;
[0104] - with the proviso that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.
[0105] Among these compounds, preference will most particularly be given to 1,4-bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3’,5,5’-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or a salt thereof, having the following structure, notably sold under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by the company Symrise:
[0106]
[0107] Preferably, the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) or a salt thereof (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Noveal.
[0108] The water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] As examples of water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents, mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) notably sold under the trade name Eusolex 232®by Merck.
[0110] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.
[0111] When the water-soluble UV-screening agent is of sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.
[0112] The term “alkanolamine” means a C2-C10compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function. As suitable alkanolamines, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.
[0113] Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, mention may be made of the following screening agents.Benzophenone compounds:
[0114] 1,1’-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), such as described in patent application WO 2007 / 071 584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (volume-mean size of 0.02 to 2 µm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and notably in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
[0115] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:
[0116] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol,
[0117] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-mean particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, notably the product sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by the company BASF, or
[0118] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C8-C20)alkyl polyglycerol ester having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent application WO 2009 / 063392, notably the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,Triazine compounds:
[0119] - Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyl triazine in its water-dispersible form, having the INCI name Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyl triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua by the company BASF,
[0120] - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which may be obtained, for example, via the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and notably in aqueous dispersion form, notably 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by the company BASF and included in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985,Benzoxazole compounds:
[0121] 2-[4-(1,3-Benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, having the CAS No. 904-39-2.
[0122] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents in the composition in accordance with the invention is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents is between 5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0124] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents.
[0126] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free of water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents” means an amount of water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV-screening agents (mass amount of hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents divided by the mass amount of lipophilic organic UV-screening agents) is greater than 0.3.
[0128] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV-screening agents is between 0.35 and 1.Inorganic UV-screening agents
[0129] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.
[0130] The inorganic UV screening agents that may be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles with a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in appendix VI, updated on 22 / 09 / 2021, of the European regulation on cosmetic products number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to that list.
[0131] They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
[0132] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.
[0133] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0134] The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0135] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
[0136] - with hydrated silica, such as the product MT-100WP from the company Tayca,
[0137] - with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from the company Ikeda,
[0138] - with silica and alumina, such as the products MT 500 SA® and MT 100 SA® from the company Tayca, and Tioveil™ AQ-N from the company Croda,
[0139] - with alumina, such as the product TTO-55 (A)® from the company Ishihara,
[0140] - with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the products MT 100 TV®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from the company Tayca, the product Solaveil CT100 from the company Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from the company Merck,
[0141] - with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from the company Tayca,
[0142] - with alumina and aluminum laurate,
[0143] - with iron oxide and iron stearate,
[0144] - with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
[0145] - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100 SAS® from the company Tayca,
[0146] - with silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,
[0147] - with silica and treated with a silicone,
[0148] - with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from the company Ishihara,
[0149] - with triethanolamine,
[0150] - with stearic acid, such as the product TTO-55 (C)® from the company Ishihara,
[0151] - with sodium hexametaphosphate,
[0152] - TiO2treated with octyl trimethyl silane,
[0153] - TiO2treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,
[0154] - anatase / rutile TiO2treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,
[0155] - TiO2coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate and alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil™ CT-200 by Croda,
[0156] - TiO2coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil™ CT-12W by Croda,
[0157] - TiO2coated with lauroyl lysine,
[0158] - TiO2coated with C9-C15 fluoro alcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.
[0159] Mention may also be made of TiO2pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, or the product sold under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1 by the company Croda.
[0160] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names MT-500B and MT-600B®, or by the company Evonik under the trade name Degussa P 25.
[0161] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0162] - those sold under the name Z-Cote® by the company BASF;
[0163] - those sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0164] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0165] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane;
[0166] - Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
[0167] - those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersant);
[0168] - those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).
[0169] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by the company Solvay.
[0170] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, notably of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.
[0171] When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV-screening agents, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
[0172] According to the invention, the composition is free of inorganic screening agents.
[0173] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “free of inorganic UV-screening agents” is understood to mean an amount of inorganic UV-screening agents of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight and preferably between 18% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “total amount of UV-screening agents” means the sum of the concentrations of each of the UV-screening agents present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.Hydrophilic AMPS copolymers
[0177] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer.
[0178] For the purposes of the invention, the term “copolymer” means a polymer comprising at least two distinct monomer units.
[0179] For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible” means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
[0180] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer including at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
[0181] They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
[0182] The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0183] The term “crosslinked polymer” denotes a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.
[0184] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
[0185] Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diallyl urea, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0186] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
[0187] According to the invention, the monomers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) preferably correspond to the general formula below:
[0188]
[0189] in which X+denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R1denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6alkyl radical such as methyl, and R1preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
[0190] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.
[0191] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.
[0192] The AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above. When said copolymers include hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may or may not include fatty chains.
[0193] According to a first particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not include a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
[0194] According to a second particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers include at least one fatty chain.
[0195] For the purpose of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 8 carbon atoms.
[0196] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
[0197] The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble comonomers are nonionic.
[0198] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
[0199] - styrenesulfonic acid,
[0200] - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
[0201] - vinylphosphonic acid,
[0202] - maleic acid,
[0203] - itaconic acid,
[0204] - crotonic acid,
[0205] - water-soluble vinyl monomers having the formula below:
[0206]
[0207] in which:
[0208] - R1is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5and -C3H7;
[0209] - X1is chosen from:
[0210] - alkyl oxides of type -OR2where R2is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonate (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO42-) group.
[0211] Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may notably be made of:
[0212] - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
[0213] - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
[0214] - maleic anhydride,
[0215] - vinylamine,
[0216] - N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
[0217] - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
[0218] - water-soluble vinyl monomers having the formula below:
[0219]
[0220] in which:
[0221] - R3is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5and -C3H7;
[0222] - X2is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR4where R4is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
[0223] Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.
[0224] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, mention may be made, for example, of:
[0225] - styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
[0226] - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;
[0227] - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0228] - acrylonitrile;
[0229] - caprolactone;
[0230] - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;
[0231] - silicone derivatives, giving, after polymerization, silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
[0232] - hydrophobic vinyl monomers having the formula below:
[0233]
[0234] in which:
[0235] - R4is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5and -C3H7;
[0236] - X3is chosen from:
[0237] - alkyl oxides of the type –OR5where R5is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0238] Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
[0239] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g / mol to 100 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 80 000 g / mol to 100 000 000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g / mol to 70 000 000 g / mol.
[0240] As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
[0241] - copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
[0242] - copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methylpropanesulfonate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer).
[0243] As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0244] Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers that may be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups.
[0245] Preferably, when the water-soluble water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, and saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based fatty acid chain including from 6 to 50 carbon atoms.
[0246] The copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.
[0247] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS copolymer(s) are crosslinked.
[0248] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferentially they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
[0249] The AMPS® copolymer(s) may also comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer including at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0250] The monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides having the formula below:
[0251]
[0252] in which R1denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R2denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.
[0253] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y denotes an oxygen atom.
[0254] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the R1group represents a methyl.
[0255] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
[0256] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the group R2represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0257] According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R1represents a methyl, the group R2represents an alkyl radical including from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 8 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula 8 in which the group Y denotes O, the group R2represents an alkyl radical including 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.
[0259] Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
[0260] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the group R1representing a methyl, and the group R2representing an alkyl radical including from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0261] In this embodiment, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.
[0262] According to a particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R1representing a methyl, and the group R2representing an alkyl radical including from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula 8 in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R1represents a methyl, the group R2represents an alkyl radical including from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
[0263] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers with a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
[0264] The AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
[0265]
[0266] in which R1denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4alkyl radical, R1preferably denotes a hydrogen atom, R2denotes a linear or branched C1-C4alkyl radical and R3denotes a linear or branched C1-C4alkyl radical and R2and R3preferably denote a methyl.
[0267] The ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N-(C1-C4)alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(C1-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[0268] Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
[0269] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, for instance the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by the company SEPPIC, and having the INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6.
[0270] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one copolymer of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methylpropanesulfonate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer).
[0271] The AMPS® copolymers(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Fatty acid esters of sugars
[0272] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester of a sugar.
[0273] The fatty acid ester(s) of sugars may be monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids and of sugars or of (C1-C4)alkyl sugars.
[0274] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid ester(s) of sugars are diesters.
[0275] They may be oxyalkylenated, for example oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated.
[0276] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, they are polyglycerolated. The length of the polyglycerol chain then comprises between 2 and 15 glycerol units, preferably between 2 and 10 and even more preferentially between 2 and 5; it is notably a polyglyceryl-3 chain.
[0277] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) forming the fatty unit of the esters that may be used according to the invention include a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters may notably be chosen from stearates, behenates, cocoates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, oleates and mixtures thereof, preferably stearates and oleates.
[0278] According to a particular embodiment, the C6-C24, preferably C12-C22 and even more preferentially C16-C20 fatty acid(s) are fatty acids whose fatty chain includes from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and is linear and saturated. It is preferably stearic acid.
[0279] The sugar(s) are chosen from sucrose (saccharose), maltose, glucose, fructose, xylose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, lactose, trehalose and methylglucose. Glucose is particularly preferred. These sugars may be substituted with a C1-C6 and preferably C1-C4 alkyl radical, and even more preferentially methyl. Sucrose, glucose and methylglucose, and even more preferentially methylglucose, are preferably used.
[0280] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid ester(s) of sugars are chosen from the glycerol, glucose or alkylglucose (poly)esters of a fatty acid bearing at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0281] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester(s) of sugars are chosen from esters or mixtures of esters of linear, saturated C6-C24, preferably C12-C22 and even more preferentially C16-C20 fatty acids and of (C1-C4 alkyl) glucose such as methyl glucose, and mixtures thereof. They are preferably polyglycerolated.
[0282] Preferably, the fatty acid ester(s) of sugars are chosen from polyglycerolated diesters of linear, saturated C16-C20 fatty acids and of methyl glucose.
[0283] Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate is most particularly preferred.
[0284] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the product sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Tego Care 450.
[0285] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid ester(s) of sugars are chosen from the glycerol, glucose or alkylglucose (poly)ester(s) of a fatty acid bearing at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain are in particular glycerol or alkylglucose (poly)esters of a fatty acid bearing at least one linear and saturated C6-C24, preferably C12-C22, even more preferably C16-20 and even better still C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0286] Preferably, the C6-C24, preferably C12-C20, even more preferentially C14-C20 and better still C16-C18 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters that may be used according to the invention include a linear and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, including from 6 to 24, preferably 12 to 22 and even more preferentially 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0287] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester(s) of sugars result from the reaction of a fatty acid, the fatty unit of which includes a linear, unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain including from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and of a (C1-C4 alkyl) sugar.
[0288] In particular, the sugar fatty acid ester is chosen from methyl glucose dioleate.
[0289] As an example of methyl glucose dioleate, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO Emulsifier by the company Lubrizol.
[0290] The fatty acid ester(s) of sugars may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more particularly in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Fillers
[0291] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid.
[0292] The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colorless or white and mineral or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced.
[0293] The fillers used in the present invention may be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), their non-tapped density and / or their oil-absorbing capacity.
[0294] The specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described inThe Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0295] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: SV= SMx ρ; where ρ is the tapped density, expressed in g / cm3, and SMis the specific surface area per unit mass, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0296] In the context of the present invention, this density may be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:
[0297] 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3and m in g).
[0298] The oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0299] It is measured according to the “wet point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in the standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:
[0300] An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. From this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
[0301] The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0302] The sizes of the fillers may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0303] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers that may be used in the present invention have an oil-absorbing capacity of from 0.25 g / g to 3.5 g / g, preferably from 0.93 g / g to 2.5 g / g, or even from 1.25 g / g to 2.5 g / g.
[0304] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers that may be used in the present invention have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.1 µm to 40 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm and even more preferentially from 1 µm to 16 µm.
[0305] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have a non-tapped density ranging from 0.2 g / cm3to 2.2 g / cm3.
[0306] According to a particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 m2 / g to 1000 m2 / g and more particularly from 150 m2 / g to 800 m2 / g.
[0307] In the present patent application, the term “spherical particles” means particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).
[0308] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical porous silica particles are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.5 to 30 µm, more particularly from 1 to 20 µm and preferentially from 1 to 16 µm.
[0309] Use may be made, as examples of porous silica microbeads, of the following commercial products: Silica 35 Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferentially SB 300 from the company Myoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from the company Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from the company Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from the company Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13 and Satinier M16 silicas, MSS-500 silicas from the company Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N, and Silica Shells from the company Kobo.
[0310] According to a specific embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles that may be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.1 to 35 µm, preferably from 1 to 20 µm and more particularly from 4 to 15 µm.
[0311] As examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, mention may notably be made of the solid cellulose beads sold under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.
[0312] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.
[0313] According to a particular embodiment, the N-acylamino acid(s) comprise(s) an acyl group containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is a lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylamino acid powder may be a lauroyllysine powder such as the product sold under the name Amihope LL by the company Ajinomoto or the product sold under the name Corum 5105 S by the company Corum.
[0314] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid have a heterogeneous particle size, i.e. a large size distribution for a given size expressed as the volume-mean diameter.
[0315] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least three fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid.
[0316] According to another particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least three fillers that are different from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical porous silica particles, in particular spherical porous silica microparticles, the second is chosen from spherical cellulose particles, and the third is chosen from powders of an N-acylamino acid.
[0317] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and powders of N-acylamino acid is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably, between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to another preferred embodiment, the mass ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + powders of N-acylamino acid) / (spherical particles of porous silica) is between 0.25 and 1.
[0318] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler other than the spherical porous silica particles, the spherical cellulose particles and the powders of an N-acylamino acid.Fatty phase
[0319] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
[0320] The fatty phase may be constituted of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. It may notably comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent(s) present in the composition.
[0321] The term “oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0322] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0323] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapor pressure of less than 10-3mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0324] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly including carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
[0325] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-O group.
[0326] As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of:
[0327] (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
[0328] (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0329] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;
[0330] (iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR’ in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R’ ≥ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;
[0331] (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
[0332] (vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
[0333] (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis;
[0334] and mixtures thereof.
[0335] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and notably to caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and notably diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, notably octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
[0336] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and notably branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0337] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059 (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155 059 from the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
[0338] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company Shell, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0339] The non-volatile silicone oils may be notably chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0340] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, notably those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8×10-6m2 / s) and notably containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0341] Mention may also be made of linear volatile alkyltrisiloxanes such as:
[0342] 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
[0343] 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and
[0344] 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.
[0345] Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
[0346] The fatty phase according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
[0347] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
[0348] - a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, different from the fatty-chain amino acids as defined previously, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
[0349] - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);
[0350] - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;
[0351] - and mixtures thereof.
[0352] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition which are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including lipophilic screening agents, represents from 20% to 70% by weight and preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Aqueous phase
[0353] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
[0354] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
[0355] An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
[0356] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvent(s) that are suitable for use in the invention include short-chain alcohols, and in particular monoalcohols including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0357] According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cosmetic active ingredients
[0358] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
[0359] Examples of cosmetic active agents that may be mentioned include moisturizers; natural extracts; vitamins and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tautening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
[0360] A person skilled in the art can readily adjust the amount of cosmetic active principle according to the intended use of the composition according to the present invention.Additional adjuvants or additives
[0361] The composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents, preserving agents and bactericides, additional thickeners, pH regulators, additional fillers, and mixtures thereof.
[0362] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the present invention.Presentation forms
[0363] According to a particular embodiment, the viscosity of the compositions in accordance with the invention, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa.s.
[0364] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa.s.
[0365] The viscosity can be measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180® rheometer from the company Maple Instruments, at a rotation speed of 200 rpm with a TV No. 2 spindle, after 10 minutes. The value of the viscosity is obtained in Pa.S.
[0366] The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W), such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.
[0367] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may notably be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0368] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that may be used are of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.
[0369] In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low content of polymer (oil / polymer ratio > 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in concentrated phase and then to dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.
[0370] It is also possible, via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that may be as low as 100 nm.
[0371] The emulsions may generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W emulsion).
[0372] Examples of W / O nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE O9® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers, which may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters, may also be added thereto.
[0373] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, notably alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
[0374] Polyol alkyl esters that may notably be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.
[0375] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
[0376] For the O / W emulsions, examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, such as the polyethylene glycol stearic acid ester having the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, notably alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68® by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90® by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by the company Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by the company SEPPIC. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in WO-A-92 / 06778.
[0377] As anionic surfactants allowing O / W emulsions to be produced, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, notably sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).
[0378] Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and notably under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even under the name Eumulgin SG by the company Cognis.
[0379] As anionic surfactants allowing O / W emulsions to be produced, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, notably inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate groups, and more particularly laurylcarbamate groups.
[0380] Examples of these compounds that may notably be mentioned include the product sold under the name Inutec SL1 by the company Creachem.
[0381] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
[0382] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, notably cosmetic treatments, for the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, notably for protecting and / or caring for the skin, the lips and / or the hair, and / or for making up the skin and / or the lips.
[0383] Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and / or the scalp, notably care products, antisun products and makeup products.
[0384] Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of at least one sugar fatty acid ester as described previously for reducing the linting of compositions comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent and at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer.EXAMPLES
[0385] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
[0386] In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as weight percentages of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.Sensory evaluation of lint formation
[0387] Beforehand, the testers wash their hands with soap and water, then rinse and dry them thoroughly.
[0388] 75 µL of the product are then applied to the back of the testers' hand using a pipette.
[0389] The product is spread over half the hand with two fingers, making 15 turns.
[0390] The testers then allow the product to dry for 5 minutes, and then wash the fingers used for its application.
[0391] The testers then make a first evaluation of the level of linting, i.e. at the end of spreading.
[0392] After the 5 minutes of drying, still using two fingers and exerting a light pressure, the testers make five turns. They then note whether there is any lint. If not, they continue until lint is produced, counting the number of turns they have to perform before lint appears. A map is used to evaluate the level of linting, with scores ranging from 0 (no lint) to 6 (a lot of lint). In this corridor test, the panel is constituted of 10 testers.
[0393] Protocol for evaluating thein vitroscreening efficacy
[0394] The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined using the “in vitro” method described by M. Pissaviniet al.in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), based on the initial absorbance.
[0395] Thein vitroUVA protection factor (UVAPF) of an antisun product for protecting against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically byin vitrospectral modeling according to the protocol ISO 24443:2012 (Fr).
[0396] Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a uniform, even deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm2. Each composition is spread using an automated robot which makes regular and uniform movements on three “HD6” plates (molded granular plates) and three “SB6” plates (sanded granular plates). The plates are weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates have been spread, they are left to stand in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. Measurements are taken using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. Nine measurements per plate are taken, and then analyzed using an Excel spreadsheet providing the SPF and UVAPF values for the composition measured.Protocol for the in vivo SPF evaluation
[0397] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions is performedin vivoaccording to the method ISO / EN 24444 “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods -in-vivodetermination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2019)”.
[0398] The application of an antisun product is an important step, as it has a significant impact on the SPF result. It must therefore be standardized and performed under the most favorable conditions possible.
[0399] This application is performed on the backs of three to ten volunteers.
[0400] Areas of 30 cm² on the back will be selected between the shoulder blades and the lower back for application of the products.
[0401] These areas must be free of spots, hairs, fuzz, moles or scars and must have a uniform color.
[0402] When positioning the volunteer, the back must be perfectly flat.
[0403] There must be a minimum gap of 1 cm between each area. These areas, each measuring 30 cm², should be drawn between the shoulder blades and the lower back. Before taking up any sample, and unless otherwise indicated, it is important to shake the product well so as to obtain good homogenization of the emulsion.
[0404] Saturation of the sampling instrument (pipette or syringe) must be performed for taring. Double weighing is necessary so as to ensure that the correct amount of product is applied. The application pre-tests allowed the amount of product to be taken up to be evaluated, so as to ensure that 2 mg / cm² ± 2.5% are indeed applied.
[0405] It is possible to apply the product with or without a finger stall. In the case of application with a finger stall, this must be tautly stretched over the pad of the finger so as to avoid excessive loss of product and to perform the application under optimum conditions.
[0406] It is possible to perform the application with or without a finger stall for the product, but the water will always be applied with the finger stall. Throughout the application, it is recommended to use light pressure, not to retrace the movement or to remove the finger, and to adhere to an application time of between 20 and 50 seconds.
[0407] The drops of product to be applied must be deposited evenly over the entire area and be of a uniform size. Care should be taken to ensure that the drops are not too close to the edges of the area to avoid excessive over-running during application.
[0408] During application, a certain number of factors need to be taken into account: the pressure applied must be light, and circular movements are essential. Ideally, it is necessary to start with small circles and widen them within the area, always in the same direction, moving gradually toward the other end of the area. To avoid excessive concentration of product in the centre, care must be taken to ensure that the product is drawn right up to the edge. Linear movements, for the finishing step, must be straight. It is recommended to perform this step quickly so as not to impair the homogeneity of the deposit.Protocol for the UVAPF persistence evaluation
[0409] The UVAPF persistence is calculated on the basis of measurements from the protocol for evaluatingin vitroUVA screening efficacy: ISO 24443: 2012 (Fr). For each PMMA plate to which the composition is applied, the percentage ofin vitroUVAPF persistence is calculated using the following mathematical formula:
[0410]
[0411] The average of the values obtained for each composition, for each of which four plates were made, is then determined.
[0412] In the absence of standards for classifying spectral photostability levels, the test product will be considered as photostable if the percentage persistence after exposure to UV is greater than 80%; moderately photostable if the percentage persistence after exposure to UV is between 60% and 80%; and sparingly photostable if the percentage persistence after exposure to UV is less than 60%.
[0413] Examples 1 to 4 - Influence of the presence of a fatty acid ester of a sugar in the composition on linting
[0414] The following compositions are prepared.
[0415] PhaseComposition1(invention)2(comparative)A1Water / aqua3030A1Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid(Eusolex 232 from Merck)77A1Sodium hydroxide1.021.02A1Propanediol33A1Complexing agent(s)0.30.3A1PEG-200.20.2A2Sodium stearoyl glutamate(Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)0.30.3A2Inulin Lauryl Carbamate(Inutec SL1 from Creachem)0.30.3B1Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate(Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt)1.4-B1Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside(Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)-1.4B1Butyl MethoxydibenzoylMethane(Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)33B1Bis-EthylhexylOxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine(Tinosorb S from BASF)33B1Ethylhexyl triazone(Tinosorb T150 from BASF)2.52.5B1Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate(Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)22B1Dicaprylyl carbonate1515B1Caprylyl glycol0.30.3B2Tocopherol0.10.1B2Dimethicone3.43.4B3Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer(Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)1.21.2B3Xanthan gum0.10.1CWater / aquaqs 100qs 100DDenat. alcohol55DSilica(Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)22DLauroyl lysine(Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)0.750.75DCellulose(Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)0.250.25EMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate(Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)4(2 active material)4(2 active material)
[0416] PhaseComposition3(comparative)4(comparative)A1Water / aqua38.0238.02A1Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid(Eusolex 232 from Merck)--A1Sodium hydroxide--A1Propanediol33A1Complexing agent(s)0.30.3A1PEG-200.20.2A2Sodium stearoyl glutamate(Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)0.30.3A2Inulin Lauryl Carbamate(Inutec SL1 from Creachem)0.30.3B1Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate(Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt)1.4-B1Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside(Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)-1.4B1Butyl MethoxydibenzoylMethane(Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)33B1Bis-EthylhexylOxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine(Tinosorb S from BASF)33B1Ethylhexyl triazone(Tinosorb T150 from BASF)2.52.5B1Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate(Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)22B1Dicaprylyl carbonate1515B1Caprylyl glycol0.30.3B2Tocopherol0.10.1B2Dimethicone3.43.4B3Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer(Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)1.21.2B3Xanthan gum0.10.1CWater / aquaqs 100qs 100DDenat. alcohol55DSilica(Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)22DLauroyl lysine(Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)0.750.75DCellulose(Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)0.250.25EMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate(Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)4(2 active material)4(2 active material)Composition preparation method
[0417] Phase A is prepared in the following manner:
[0418] Introduction of the starting materials of phases A1 and A2 and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
[0419] Introduction of the starting materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while allowing the temperature to fall to 65°C.
[0420] Phase B is prepared as follows:
[0421] Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained. Transfer into the main tank.
[0422] Maintenance of heating at 65°C and addition, with stirring, of the starting materials of phases B2 and B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
[0423] At 65°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.
[0424] Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.
[0425] Stoppage of heating.
[0426] Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.
[0427] Dispersion with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while commencing cooling.
[0428] Continued cooling with scraper blade stirring only.
[0429] At a temperature < 30°C, addition of phases D and E
[0430] Dispersion with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
[0431] Introduction of phase F, dispersion with scraper blade stirring only, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.Sensory results obtained
[0432] The sensory results associated with linting are as follows:
[0433] Composition1(invention)2(comparative)Sensory aspectLinting04.5
[0434] Composition3(comparative)4(comparative)Sensory aspectLinting01.2Conclusion:
[0435] When the composition comprises a high concentration of hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents, and in particular of water-soluble organic UV-screening agents (9% by weight of hydrophilic screening agents, including 7% by weight of water-soluble screening agents for compositions 1 and 2), the composition comprising a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) and a fatty acid ester of a sugar (Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt) displays significantly reduced linting compared with the comparative composition comprising a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) and an alkyl glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC).
[0436] When the composition comprises a concentration of less than 5% by weight of hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents, notably when it does not comprise any water-soluble screening agents (2% by weight of water-dispersible screening agents for compositions 3 and 4), the composition comprising a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) and a fatty acid ester of a sugar (Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt) and the composition comprising a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) and an alkyl glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) form very little lint.Photoprotection results
[0437] The photoprotection results are as follows:
[0438] Composition1(invention)2(comparative)in vitroSPF77 ± 1057 ± 6in vitroUVAPF37.5 ± 0.523.9 ± 1.7in vitroUVAPF persistence (%)77 ± 158 ± 5
[0439] These results show that the composition in accordance with the invention, which comprises a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) and a fatty acid ester of a sugar (Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt), leads to improved UVA and UVB photoprotection, with a significantly higher UVAPF persistence following UV exposure, compared with the comparative composition comprising a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) and an alkyl glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC).
[0440] Examples 5 and 6 - Influence of the presence of a fatty acid ester of a sugar in the composition on linting
[0441] The following compositions are prepared.
[0442] PhaseComposition5(invention)6(comparative)A1Water / aqua3030A1Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid(Eusolex 232 from Merck)77A1Sodium hydroxide1.021.02A1Propanediol33A1Complexing agent(s)0.30.3A1PEG-200.20.2A2Sodium stearoyl glutamate(Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)0.30.3A2Inulin Lauryl Carbamate(Inutec SL1 from Creachem)0.30.3B1Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate(Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt)1.4-B1Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside(Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)-1.4B1Butyl MethoxydibenzoylMethane(Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)33B1Bis-EthylhexylOxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine(Tinosorb S from BASF)33B1Ethylhexyl triazone(Tinosorb T150 from BASF)2.52.5B1Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate(Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)22B1Dicaprylyl carbonate1515B1Caprylyl glycol0.30.3B2Tocopherol0.10.1B2Dimethicone3.43.4B3Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6(Sepimax Zen from SEPPIC)0.150.15B3Xanthan gum0.10.1CWater / aquaqs 100qs 100DDenat. alcohol55DSilica(Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)22DLauroyl lysine(Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)0.750.75DCellulose(Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)0.250.25EMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate(Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)4(2 active material)4(2 active material)Composition preparation method
[0443] Phase A is prepared in the following manner:
[0444] Introduction of the starting materials of phases A1 and A2 and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
[0445] Introduction of the starting materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while allowing the temperature to fall to 65°C.
[0446] Phase B is prepared as follows:
[0447] Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained. Transfer into the main tank.
[0448] Maintenance of heating at 65°C and addition, with stirring, of the starting materials of phases B2 and B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
[0449] At 65°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.
[0450] Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.
[0451] Stoppage of heating.
[0452] Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.
[0453] Dispersion with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while commencing cooling.
[0454] Continued cooling with scraper blade stirring only.
[0455] At a temperature < 30°C, addition of phases D and E
[0456] Dispersion with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
[0457] Introduction of phase F, dispersion with scraper blade stirring only, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.Sensory results obtained
[0458] The sensory results associated with linting are as follows:
[0459] Composition5(invention)6(comparative)Sensory aspectLinting0.64.8
[0460] These results show that the composition in accordance with the invention which comprises at least 5% by weight of water-soluble organic UV-screening agents (Eusolex 232 at 7% by weight), a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepimax Zen™ from SEPPIC) and a fatty acid ester of a sugar (Tego Care 450 MB from Evonik Goldschmidt) shows reduced linting compared with the comparative composition comprising a hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (Sepimax Zen™ from SEPPIC) and an alkyl glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC).
Claims
A composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:a) at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents;b) at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; andc) at least one C6-C24 fatty acid ester of a sugar;the amount of hydrophilic organic screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; andthe amount of water-dispersible organic UV-screening agents being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the lipophilic organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenyl)benzotriazole compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in either of claims 1 and 2, in which the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the water-soluble organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid); benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); and salts thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the water-dispersible organic UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetra-methylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6; methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C8-C20)alkyl polyglycerol ester with a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5; bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyl triazine in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine (and) acrylates / C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer; symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form, the mean particle size of which is from 0.02 to 3 µm, notably in aqueous dispersion form, notably 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the total amount of UV-screening agents is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV-screening agents is greater than 0.3, preferably between 0.35 and 1.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the AMPS copolymer(s) b) are chosen from copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.The composition as claimed in claim 8, in which the hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) are nonionic.The composition as claimed in either of claims 8 and 9, in which the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) include a fatty chain.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11, in which the composition comprises at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is preferably totally salified, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate, which is preferably crosslinked.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 12, in which the fatty acid ester(s) of a sugar c) are monoesters or polyesters of fatty acid and of sugar or of a (C1-C4)alkyl sugar, preferably diesters.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the fatty acid ester(s) of a sugar c) are oxyalkylenated, for example oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated, preferably polyglycerolated.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 14, in which the C6-C24, preferably C12-C22 and even more preferentially C16-C20 fatty acid(s) forming the fatty unit of the fatty acid esters of sugars c) include a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, hydrocarbon-based chain including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from stearates, behenates, cocoates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, oleates, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially stearate.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 15, in which the sugar(s) of the fatty acid ester(s) of a sugar c) are chosen from sucrose (saccharose), maltose, glucose, fructose, xylose, mannose and galactose, arabinose, lactose, trehalose and methylglucose, preferably glucose, and they may or may not be substituted with a C1-C6 and preferably C1-C4 alkyl radical, even more preferentially methyl, preferably methylglucose.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 16, in which the fatty acid ester(s) of a sugar c) are chosen from the glycerol, glucose or alkylglucose (poly)esters of a fatty acid containing at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C6-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably polyglyceryl 3-methylglucose distearate.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 17, in which the fatty acid ester(s) of a sugar c) are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more particularly in a content ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 18, in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 19, in which the amount of fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The use of at least one fatty acid ester of a sugar c) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 13 to 17, for reducing the linting of compositions comprising at least one organic UV-screening agent and at least one hydrophilic copolymer including at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer as defined in any one of claims 1 and 8 to 12.
Citation Information
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