Conditioner composition for assisting in curl styling and respective process for obtaining same

Abstract

The present patent of invention pertains to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations characterized by the composition thereof, and more specifically provides a formulation / composition for a leave-in conditioner for assisting in curl styling. More particularly, it relates to a chemical composition comprising surfactants known as Stepan soleil (dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and sunflower seed oil glycerides), which affords a sustainable formulation free of silicones and other film-forming agents such as PVP and polyquaterniums. For this purpose, an unusual association is made of Stepan soleil surfactants, cetrimonium chloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine with a conditioning agent such as Nigella sativa seed oil, Opuntia ficus-indica seed, Cocos nucifera seed, inter alia.

Description

"Composition of a conditioner to aid in curl shaping and its respective manufacturing process"

[0001] This invention patent belongs to the technical field of cosmetics and / or similar preparations, characterized by its composition. More specifically, it presents a formulation / composition of a leave-in conditioner that aids in curl definition, more specifically a chemical composition with surfactants known as stepan soleil (dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and sunflower seed oil glycerides) that promote a sustainable formulation free of silicones and other film-forming agents such as PVP and polyquaterniums. To achieve this, the unusual combination of surfactants stepan soleil, cetrimonium chloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is made with conditioning agents such as Nigella sativa seed oil, Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil, Cocos nucifera seed oil, among others. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Several patent documents in the state of the art are known to present chemical formulations without the addition of silicones, exhibiting characteristics that help with the moisture and shine of curly and frizzy hair, when used as a rinse-out or leave-in product.

[0003] For example, patent document DE102021213218, despite presenting a conditioner that does not use silicone substances and mineral oils for conditioning, uses in its process the substance commercially sold under the name Stepanquat® soleil to fulfill this function. However, the main function of the product in this document DE102021213218 is limited to describing the improvement of sensory properties, such as softness and elasticity, and resistance against physical damage to the hair.

[0004] In turn, patent document BRPI0113912 develops a conditioning composition for hair or skin. However, it uses silicones for the conditioning function and does not present a specific solution for curly or frizzy hair, as proposed in the present invention. Furthermore, patent document BR112014026541, unlike the solution proposed in... The present invention reveals a product that does not have cosmetic applications and only mentions Stepanquat as an option for a cationic conditioner; therefore, it does not motivate the search for the solution presented here. TECHNICAL PROBLEM

[0005] As is known from the prior art, the composition known as stepan soleil was launched on the market as a substitute for the emulsifiers CTAC and BETAC, widely used in the cosmetic hair care industry for their ability to maintain formulation stability and good sensory characteristics. However, the isolated use of stepan soleil is not capable of maintaining formulation stability, despite its sensory assistance and post-rinse results. Thus, the need remains for sustainable formulations, free of silicones and other film-forming agents such as PVP and polyquaterniums, which at the same time have excellent performance on wavy, curly and frizzy hair, with regard to detangling, hydration, anti-frizz and curl definition attributes. TECHNICAL SOLUTION

[0006] In order to reduce or completely resolve the problems identified in the state of the art, there is a continuous desire to provide compositions and treatment methods that have the advantage of being silicone-free and that, simultaneously, provide an effect of increased definition and anti-frizz action in wavy, curly and frizzy hair, when used as a rinse-out product.

[0007] Since it is not possible to locate in the state of the art a single document that presents the conditioning substance Stepanquat® in place of silicones, where the function is to improve the quality of curls, and in combination with at least all the other specific and essential ingredients necessary to achieve the objectives sought herein, through the solution proposed by the present invention an optimal combination is made available resulting from the unusual association of surfactants stepan soleil, cetrimonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine with a blend of oils as a conditioning agent, among other ingredients, in specific application ranges and production process conditions.

[0008] The distinguishing feature of the present invention is that it is a silicone-free formulation that provides increased definition and anti-frizz action in wavy, curly, and frizzy hair when used as a rinse-out product. This sets it apart from other products on the market, resulting from the synergy between stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cetrimonium chloride, and stepan soleil, among others. This increases the formula's stability and improves the sensory experience in both wet and dry hair, in addition to aiding in detangling, film formation, anti-frizz, and curl definition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0009] The present invention relates to a conditioner formulation in which the synergistic combination is distinguished by being free of synthetic film-forming agents and having a volume-maintenance and curl-defining effect. The synergy of stepan and oil blend provides greater effectiveness in styling curly hair (wavy, curly, and coily, and hair in transition) when used as a rinse-out and finishing product.

[0010] For the evaluation of curl definition and retention (Allergisa tests), parameters of volume reduction, frizz reduction, length, and number of curls were considered. For this, a conditioner containing 2% of each cationic surfactant was applied, comparing Branco, CETAC, BTAC, STEPANQUAT Helia, and STEPANQUAT Soleil. According to the classification of hair based on curl level [Loussourn, 2007], strands of natural hair types III, V, and VI were used for the test, with 3 grams of conditioner applied to each strand, which is 20 cm long. Evaluations were performed at 8, 24, 48, and 72 hours.

[0011] According to the results obtained, the conditioner sample containing STEPANQUAT Soleil proved to be more effective than the others (STEPANQUAT Hleia, CETAC, BTAC, White), as it showed improvement in three of the parameters analyzed for hair types III, V, and VII, reducing frizz, volume, and hair length from 8 to 72 hours after product application. Even so, For hair types V and VII, it was noted that STEPANQUAT Soleil was also the product that performed best in terms of curl count.

[0012] For an evaluation of capillary hydrophobicity by contact angle, the assessment was performed using a hair conditioner formula containing 2% of each cationic active ingredient, comparing BTAC, CETAC, and STEPANQUAT® Soleil. Conditioners containing 3% and 4% of STEPANQUAT® Soleil active ingredients were also used in the test. To evaluate capillary hydrophobicity, six types of conditioners were applied to bleached Caucasian hair strands after applying a mixture of bleaching powder and 30-volume hydrogen peroxide in a 1:2 ratio, leaving it on for 40 minutes at 45°C. This evaluation was performed using a KRUSS Drop Shape Analyzer, dripping 2 pL of water onto the bleached hair strand using a 0.5 mm diameter needle, thus evaluating the absorption time of the drop on the surface.

[0013] Based on the data obtained through the analyses, STEPANQUAT® Soleil contributes to capillary hydrophobicity at concentrations of 2.0% and 3.0%, showing superior results to placebo, BTAC, and CTAC with 2.0% active ingredient. It was observed that, with 4.0% STEPANQUAT® Soleil, unexpected results were obtained, showing a lower outcome than the other applications.

[0014] To assess the saturation concentration of STEPANQUAT® soleil in the formula, an evaluation was performed using a hair conditioner formula containing 2, 3, and 4% of the active ingredient STEPANQUAT® Soleil. This was applied to strands of natural hair types 3A and 3B, according to the 'Andre Walkers' scale, verifying at what percentage of active ingredients the conditioner provided alignment and definition of curls, without compromising hair volume and shine in the hair fiber.

[0015] Based on the hair strand test performed, we can say that the saturation percentage for this application is 3% STEPANQUAT® Soleil.

[0016] To verify the effectiveness of the synergy between the emulsifiers, instrumental definition and volume tests were performed, in which, for each study group, the products were applied in a standardized manner, followed The curl patterns of the hair strands were then placed in a climate chamber for 72 hours at 23.1 ± 0.5°C and 76 ± 2% relative humidity. The strands were photographed in their initial condition immediately after product application (TO) and after 24 (T24), 48 (T48), and 72 hours (T72) in a chamber with standardized lighting. The original images were processed with contrast effects using ImagePro software. Frizz was determined as the difference between the expanded area and the area occupied by the strands, while the parameters used for definition were volume and length. The units of measurement used were pixels, and comparisons were always made in relation to the same experimental time.

[0017] Finally, to assess the scope of the technical effect, a perceived efficacy test was conducted with 100 participants, in a mixed group of wavy, curly, and kinky hair types, where the product was tested in two usage modes: conditioner and finishing product.

[0018] As shown in Table 1, where the "Acceptance" index represents "strongly agree and partially agree," the "Neutral" index represents "neither agree nor disagree," and the "Rejection" index represents "strongly disagree and partially disagree," the test demonstrated that more than 91% of participants observed frizz control and reduction, increased hydration, softness, smoothness, and shine in their hair, in addition to helping define curl patterns and style their hair.

[0019] In an essential embodiment of the present invention, the essential ingredients for formulating a leave-in conditioner that aids in curl definition, represented by their respective international nomenclatures (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients - INCI) and ranges of use, are presented in Table 2.

[0020] In one embodiment of the present invention, other formulation ingredients may be added to the composition of a curl-defining conditioner, such as those presented in Table 3.

[0021] It is noteworthy that the attributes obtained and proven by the present invention are surprising for a conditioner formulation designed to aid in curl shaping, where the specific combination of the listed ingredients in the exact concentrations used in this product, besides being unknown in the prior art, would not make it obvious how many benefits of detangling, hydration, anti-frizz, volume maintenance, and curl definition attributes could be obtained when used as a rinse-out product.

[0022] The processing of the formulation according to the present invention corroborates the achievement of the benefits in order to provide a cosmetic method and composition for a conditioner to aid in curl shaping, more specifically, resulting in the physicochemical characteristics of the composition with an appearance of opaque white cream, density of 0.97 to 1.02, shelf life viscosity of 5500 to 17500 cP (#5, 20 rpm, 20s), and pH of 3.5 to 4.5.

[0023] Thus, the present invention also includes a process for obtaining a conditioner composition to aid in curl shaping, comprising specific preparation steps for its production. The steps described below comprise phases and their respective ingredients and mass percentages indicated in the tables above, with the conditions presented being fundamental to guaranteeing the stability and characteristics of the product.

[0024] To begin the process of obtaining the cosmetic composition of a curl-defining conditioner, add water, glycerol, sodium gluconate, and lactic acid, then heat to 75°C to 80°C and stir at 300 rpm.

[0025] Once the temperature is between 75°C and 80°C, increase the stirring to 600 rpm and add the stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. Then... It is necessary to wait for the mixture to become transparent before sequentially adding cetostearyl alcohol, soy methyl ester, caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylyl glycol, tocopherol acetate, and Cocos nucifera seed butter, hydrogenated Adansonia digitata seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, and Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil, maintaining a temperature of 75°C to 80°C and stirring at 600 rpm.

[0026] Once the raw materials are melted, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, sunflower seed oil glycerides, and cetrimonium chloride are added sequentially.

[0027] Next, the emulsification process begins for 5 minutes at 1300 to 1500 rpm, and after the emulsion has formed, cooling begins.

[0028] Once the temperature drops below 40°C, tocopherol acetate and phenoxyethanol are added sequentially.

Claims

CLAIMS 1.) “CONDITIONER COMPOSITION TO AID IN STYLING "CURLY HAIR", characterized by essentially comprising the following percentage of mass: 1.912% to 8.9%, preferably 2.499% of conditions, of which the following are preferably: 1.00% to 3.00%, preferably 1.30%, of dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate; 0.50% to 1.50%, preferably 0.70%, of sunflower seed oil glycerides; 0.40 to 1.40%, preferably 0.478%, of coconut butter; 0.002 to 0.500%, preferably 0.0035%, of hydrogenated Adansonia digitata seed oil; 0.002 to 0.500%, preferably 0.0035%, of Butyrospermum parkii butter; 0.002 to 0.500%, preferably 0.0035%, of Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, 0.002 to 0.500%, preferably 0.0035%, of Moringa oleifera seed oil 0.002 to 0.500%, preferably 0.0035%, of Nigella sativa seed oil; 0.002 to 0.500%, preferably 0.0035%, of Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil; 0.50 to 1.50% pH corrector; 4.00% to 7.00% viscosity regulator; 2.00% to 4.00% humectant; 0.30% to 1.30% preservative; 0.25% to 1.25% emollient; 0.15% chelating agent; 15% chelating agent; 1.00% to 3.00% emulsifier; 0.10% to 1.10% antioxidant; 5.00% to 11.00% for other conditions; and vehicle QSP (Quality Standard Operating Permit). 2.) “CONDITIONER COMPOSITION TO AID IN CURL DEFINITION”, as defined in claim 1, characterized by comprising the following percentages by mass: 0.50% to 1.50%, preferably 0.51%, of pH corrector, preferably lactic acid; 4.00% to 7.00%, preferably 6.50%, of viscosity regulator, preferably cetostearyl alcohol; 2.00% to 4.00%, preferably 2.00005%, of humectant, preferably glycerin; 0.30% to 1.30%, preferably 0.400001%, of preservative, preferably phenoxyethanol; 0.25% to 1.25%, preferably 0.300001%, of emollient, preferably caprylyl glycol; 0.15% to 1.15%, preferably 0.20%, of chelating agent, preferably sodium gluconate; 1.00% to 3.00%, preferably 1.00%, of emulsifier, preferably cetrimonium chloride; 0.10% to 1.10%, preferably 0.10%, of antioxidant, preferably tocopheryl acetate; 4.50% to 10.00%, preferably 5%, of other conditions, preferably: 1.50% to 3.00%, preferably 1.50%, of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; 2.00% to 4.00%, preferably 2.50%, of soy methyl ester; and 1.00% to 3.00%, preferably 1.00%, of caprylic / capric triglyceride; and 75.00% to 85.00%, water as a vehicle. 3.) “PROCESS FOR OBTAINING CONDITIONER COMPOSITION "AID IN CURL DESIGN", as defined in claim 2, characterized by comprising the following steps: starting the process by adding water, glycerol, sodium gluconate, and lactic acid, and starting the heating to 75°C to 80°C and stirring at 300 rpm; once the temperature is between 75°C and 80°C, increase the stirring to 600 rpm and add stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; wait for the composition to become transparent, to sequentially start adding cetostearyl alcohol, soy methyl ester, caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylyl glycol, tocopherol acetate and Cocos nucifera seed butter, hydrogenated Adansonia digitata seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, seed oil of Opuntia ficus-indica, maintaining a temperature of 75°C to 80°C and agitation at 600 rpm;With the raw materials melted, sequentially add dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, sunflower seed oil glycerides, and cetrimonium chloride; start the emulsification process for 5 minutes at 1300 to 1500 rpm and, after the emulsion forms, start cooling; and when the temperature is below 40°C, sequentially add tocopherol acetate and phenoxyethanol.

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