Hair cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition with conditioning properties comprising (a) at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide; and (b) at least one alkylated fatty amide. The present invention is also directed to the use of the hair care composition for manufacturing a product for cleansing, improving the smooth touch, and conditioning the hair. Also, the present invention is related to a method for improving smooth touch of hair.

Description

[0001] HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The present invention is directed to a hair cosmetic composition with conditioning properties comprising (a) at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide; and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide. The present invention is also directed to the use of the hair care composition for manufacturing a product for cleansing, improving the smooth touch, and conditioning the hair. Also, the present invention is related to a method for improving smooth touch of hair.

[0003] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0004] People have been using many cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the look and feel of keratin fibers, such as the hair.

[0005] Particularly regarding cleansing compositions, consumers are therefore still looking for optimized cleansing compositions for hair such as shampoos that provide adequate visual sleekness of the hair; good conditioning and feel of the hair, good hair manageability, detangling properties, and in particular of wet hair; control, or even elimination, of frizziness, and control or reduction of the volume.

[0006] Many attempts of hair cosmetic compositions have been developed to achieve the properties mentioned above.

[0007] An important aspect related to products for cleaning the hair of the state of the art are that they usually comprise ingredients that make the hair dry, with rough touch and frizz. This is even worst for damaged hair due to various reasons, e.g., weather exposure, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g. brushing hair), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc.

[0008] Moreover, viscosity or thickness and consistency can impact consumers’ preferences with respect to ease of application and distribution on hair or skin or product feel.

[0009] In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of materials of natural origin, and more particularly materials of plant origin. In view of the problems described above and the consumer’s need, the inventors of the present invention achieved a hair cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide, that provides several beneficial attributes to the hair including conditioning film, cleaning, good sensory properties such as hair smooth touch, good coating, good detangling (with fingers), good control of the volume, less frizz (providing good sensorial and visual attributes) and properties. Also, the hair cosmetic composition when used in a shampoo presents higher foam abundancy along with more softness to the hair fiber.

[0010] Thus, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is able to achieve the properties above due to the combination of (a) at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide.

[0011] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0012] The inventors of the present invention overcame the problems of the state of the art and achieved a hair cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide, which provides several beneficial attributes to hair including conditioning film, cleaning, good sensory properties such as hair smooth touch, good coating, good detangling (with fingers), good control of the volume, less frizz (providing good sensorial and visual attributes) and good viscosity properties. Also, the hair cosmetic composition presents foam abundancy and high softness.

[0013] The present invention is also related to the use of the hair care composition for manufacturing a product for cleaning, improving the smooth touch, and conditioning the hair.

[0014] Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

[0015] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] The hair care composition of the present invention comprises:

[0017] (a) at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide;

[0018] (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide; and

[0019] (c) optionally at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide is lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide, Lauroyl Methyl Glucamide, Capryloyl Methyl Glucamide, Caproyl Methyl Glucamide, Cocoyl Methyl Glucamide, Nonanoyl Methylglucamide, Oleyl Methyl Glucamide, Sunfloweroyl Methyl 13 Glucamide, Methylglucamide Oleyl Oleate, Methylglucamide Stearyl Stearate, Methylglucamide Tocopheryl Succinate, or mixtures thereof.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the amount at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide of the invention ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, from about 0.3% to about 7.0% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 5.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkoxylated fatty amide is PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, peg-3 cocamide, peg-4 stearamide, peg-50 tallow amide, or mixtures thereof.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkoxylated fatty amide of the invention ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight; from about 0.3% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 5.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges there between, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients such as solvent, anionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant, cationic polymer, anionic polymer, organic acids and salts, silicone, ethylene glycol ester, pH adjuster, among others.

[0025] The hair cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably in the form of a shampoo, rinse-off treatments, conditioners, and leave-on treatments.

[0026] In an embodiment, the pH of the present hair cosmetic composition ranges from about 4.0 to about 7.0, for example from about 5.0 to about 6.5, or from about 5.0 to about 6.0, or from about 5.0 to about 5.6, including ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0027] In a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

[0028] (a) about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight of at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide chosen from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide or mixtures thereof; and (b) about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide chosen from PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide or mixtures thereof; wherein the weights are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] In another preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present inventions comprises:

[0030] (a) from about 0.3% to about 3.0% by weight of at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide chosen from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof; and

[0031] (b) about 0.3% to about 6.0% by weight of at least one alkylated fatty amide chosen from PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof; wherein the weights are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In yet another preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

[0033] (a) from about 0.5% to about 1.0% by weight of at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide chosen from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof; and

[0034] (b) about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide chosen from PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof; wherein the weights are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the hair cosmetic composition for the manufacturing of a product for improving the smooth touch and conditioning of the hair.

[0036] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to a method for improving smooth touch of hair, comprising applying an effective amount of the hair cosmetic composition of the invention to the hair. According to the present invention, a smooth / soft touch hair is the attribute related to the cosmetic property of the surface state of the hair (wet or dry) whereby hair feels smooth as fingers easily slip through it without noticeable grip or friction.

[0037] The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention provides several beneficial attributes to the hair, including conditioning film, cleansing, good sensory properties such as hair smooth touch, good coating, good detangling (with fingers), good control of the volume and less frizz (providing good sensorial and visual attributes). Also, the hair cosmetic composition presents foam abundancy and high softness.

[0038] In addition, the hair cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the hair, such as a shampoo for all types of hair.

[0039] Terms

[0040] As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0041] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within + / - 10% of the indicated number.

[0042] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

[0043] The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

[0044] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0045] N-METHYL ALKYL GLUCAMIDE

[0046] According to the present invention, n-methyl glucamides are mild surfactants (nonionic) with good foaming and cleansing properties.

[0047] Such ingredient also provides repairing, cleaning, and conditioning to the hair. Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl-glucamides, particularly those with a hydrocarbon chain containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms (counting the carbon atom of the carbonyl group -C(O)-), preferably 6 to 22, more preferably 6 to 20, and even more preferably 6 to 14.

[0048] More preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those of the following general formula (A): where:

[0049] The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, with N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine,

[0050] Ri represents a C1-C2 alkyl radical, preferably methyl,

[0051] R2 represents a linear or branched C3-C29 alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably C5-C21, more preferably C5-C19, and even more preferably C5-C13, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.

[0052] Even more preferably:

[0053] The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, with N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine,

[0054] R1 represents a methyl group, and

[0055] R2 represents a linear C3-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C5-C21 , more preferably C5-C19, even more preferably C5-C13, and even better C7-C9, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.

[0056] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least two glucamide compounds, more preferably two glucamide compounds.

[0057] In the context of the present invention, the terms "glucamide" and "glucamine" encompass all their respective isomers.

[0058] Among the glucamide compounds used in the invention, mention may be made, alone or in combination, of: myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide, methylglucamide oleate, methylglucamide stearate, methylglucamide tocopheryl succinate.

[0059] Particularly preferred are the glucamide compounds chosen from, alone or in combination, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, and sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide.

[0060] Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide are particularly preferred.

[0061] Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide.

[0062] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) in the composition ranges from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, from about 0.1 % to about 7.0% by weight, 0.3% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 4.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to 1 .0% including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] ALKOXYLATED FATTY AMIDE

[0064] In the present invention, the alkoxylated fatty amides are polyethylene glycol (PEG) of fatty amides. Such ingredients are nonionic surfactants with solubilizing properties. Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty amide according to the present invention is PEG-4 Rapeseedamide.

[0065] The polyethylene glycol (PEG) of fatty amides can be chosen from the general structure above:

[0066] RCONH(CH2CH2O)nH where:

[0067] R represents the fatty acid chain, which can vary in length and saturation. n represents the number of ethylene oxide units added to the amide.

[0068] In the present invention, preferably R = C17H33 and n = 2.5. According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of n-methyl glucamide(s) to the total content of alkoxylated fatty amide(s) is less than or equal to 1.

[0069] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of N-methyl glucamide(s) to the total content of alkoxylated fatty amide(s) is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 , better between 0.01 and 0.09 even better less than or equal to 0.08, or between 0.05 and 0.1 .

[0070] ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDES

[0071] The composition according to the invention comprises optionally at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside. The alkyl(poly)glycosides can be chosen from those of the following general formula:

[0072] RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v where:

[0073] Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0074] R2represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar moiety containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0075] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides formulas are compounds described above in which:

[0076] Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, linear or branched, containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0077] R2represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, G denotes glucose, fructose, or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, i.e. , the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being particularly between 1 and 2.

[0078] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar moieties are generally of the 1- 6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1 -4 type. Advantageously, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are alkyl(poly)glucosides, such as (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides. (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glucosides, especially coco- glucosides, decylglucosides, and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are particularly preferred.

[0079] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / ll, 1200, and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200, and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

[0080] More preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are chosen from (Ce- C3o)alkyl(poly)glycosides; even more preferably, from (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycosides; even better, from (C8-Ci8)alkyl(poly)glycosides such as coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and their mixtures.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one alkyl(poly)glucoside chosen from (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides; even more preferably, from (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glucosides; even better, from (Cs- Ci8)alkyl(poly)glucosides such as coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and their mixtures.

[0082] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Preferably, the total content of (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol is less than or equal to 1.

[0087] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and especially preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0088] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (Ce- C3o)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of monoester(s) of fatty acid in C6-C40 (preferably in Cs-Cso) and (poly)glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and especially preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0089] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (Cs- C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of monoester(s) of fatty acid in C6-C40 and glycerol is less than 1 .0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and especially preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0090] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (Ce- C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) to the total content of monoester(s) of fatty acid in C6-C40 (preferably in Cs-Cso) and glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and especially preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0091] ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0092] In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise additional ingredients as described below.

[0093] Anionic Surfactant(s)

[0094] An anionic surfactant, as used in this description, refers to a surfactant, preferably non-silicone, that contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0095] In this description, an entity is referred to as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (e.g., medium, pH) and does not contain cationic charge.

[0096] Non limiting examples of anionic surfactants that may be used include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D- galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

[0097] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfo succinates.

[0098] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen especially from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

[0099] Examples of anionic surfactants include fatty acid soaps such as soap base, sodium laurate or sodium palmitate, alkyl sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium lauryl sulfate or potassium lauryl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate ester salts such as polyoxyethylene (POE)-triethanolamine lauryl sulfate or POE-sodium lauryl sulfate, N-acyl sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, fatty acid amide sulfonates having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium N-myristyl-N- methyl taurate, sodium methyl coconut oil fatty acid taurate (also referred to as sodium methyl cocoyl taurate) or sodium methyl lauryl taurate, phosphate ester salts such as POE-sodium oleyl ether phosphate or POE-stearyl ether phosphate, sulfosuccinates such as sodium di(2-ethylhexyl)sulfosuccinate, sodium monolauroyl monoethanolamide polyoxyethylene sulfosuccinate or sodium lauryl polypropylene glycol sulfosuccinate, alkyl benzene sulfonates such as sodium linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate, triethanolamine linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate or linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate, N-acyl glutamates such as monosodium N-lauroyl glutamate, disodium N- stearoyl glutamate or monosodium N-myristyl-L-glutamate, N-acyl glycinates such as potassium N-cocoyl glycinate or sodium N-stearoyl glycinate, fatty acid ester sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium hydrogenated coconut oil fatty acid glyceryl sulfate, sulfonated oils such as turkey red oil, POE-alkyl ether carboxylates, POE-alkyl allyl ether carboxylates, .alpha.-olefin sulfonates, fatty acid ester sulfonates having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, secondary alcohol sulfate ester salts, fatty acid alkyloyl amide sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, sodium lauroyl ethanolamide succinate, ditriethanolamine N-palmitoyl aspartate and sodium casein.

[0100] In particular, the anionic surfactants are selected from sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (sodium laureth sulfate), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ammonium laureth sulfate), sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate or mixtures thereof. Preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 1 or 2), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO, (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3) or mixtures thereof.

[0101] In an embodiment, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarconisate, sodium oleylsuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzol sulfonate and / or triethanolamine dodecylbenzol sulfonate or mixtures thereof, in particular the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.1 to about 25.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 20.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 15.0% by weight, and ideally from about 5 to about 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Nonionic Surfactant(s)

[0104] Non-limiting examples of additional nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and particularly from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C40 alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains; condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1 .5 to 4 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester), preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units; fatty acid esters of sucrose; polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters having from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils; amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0105] The nonionic surfactants may range from about 0.1 to about 20.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 10.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.3 to about 1 .0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Amphoteric Surfactants

[0107] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful for the invention may include, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention can be derived from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These amine derivatives contain at least one anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group.

[0108] Specific examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci- Ce)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and their mixtures.

[0109] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, as defined above, compounds with the following structures (III) and (IV) can also be mentioned:

[0110] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X’ (III) where:

[0111] Rarepresents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed copra oil, with Ra preferably representing a heptyl, nonyl, or undecyl group;

[0112] Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;

[0113] Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0114] M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

[0115] X’ represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4) or alkyl(Ci- C4)aryl-sulfonates, especially methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M+and X’ are absent.

[0116] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) where: B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0117] B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0118] X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0119] Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H, or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z';

[0120] Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0121] Ra’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from Ra’- COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed copra oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, with Ra’ preferably being an alkyl group, particularly C17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 alkyl group.

[0122] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5thedition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0123] As an example, the commercially available cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate can be mentioned.

[0124] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (V) where:

[0125] Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H, or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0126] Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0127] Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0128] Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from Ra”-COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed copra oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and n and n', independently of each other, are integers ranging from 1 to 3.

[0129] Among the compounds of formula (V), the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary as sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB can be mentioned.

[0130] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0131] Among the aforementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphodiacetates, and their mixtures are advantageously used.

[0132] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and their mixtures. Even more preferably, they are chosen from cocobetaine, cocam idopropylbetaine, and their mixtures.

[0133] Even better, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, particularly cocam idopropylbetaine.

[0134] Preferably, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from about 0.1 to about 15.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 10.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 1 to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Polymer(s)

[0136] Non-limiting examples of polymer(s) according to the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric polymers, preferably anionic polymer(s) and cationic polymers.

[0137] The anionic thickening agent can be selected from polyacrylate-3, commercially known under the trade name of Viscophobe DB-100 and sold by The Dow Chemical Company, carbomers, commercially known under the trade name of Carbopol polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, acrylates / Cw-so alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, commercially known the trade names of Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, Acrylates / Cw-so Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer such as Carbopol® llltrez 20 Polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc., AMP-acrylates / allyl methacrylate copolymer, commercially known under the trade name of Fixate G-100 polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc., Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as SepimaxTM Zen sold by the company Seppic, and a crosslinked methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer, also known as an acrylates copolymer in aqueous dispersion, such as the slightly cross-linked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer known by the INCI name acrylates copolymer and sold by Lubrizol, under the tradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF- 1 as an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30 percent by weight of total solids or active material.

[0138] In various embodiments, the thickening agents may be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, for example cellulose polymers and gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold under the tradename Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as those sold under the tradenames Reten® by Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the tradename Hydagen F® by the company Henkel, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance poly(2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) such as those sold under the tradename Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by the company Clariant, crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, e.g. in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those sold under the tradename Sepigel™ 305 (CTFA name: 10 Polyacrylamide / Ci3-14 lsoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the tradename Simugel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / lsohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PemulenTM type, associative polymers, for instance PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer such those as sold under the tradename ACULYN™ 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, steareth-100 / PEG136 / HDI copolymer such as those sold under the tradename Rheolate® FX 1100 by the company Elementis, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Non-limiting examples of cationic conditioning polymers useful in the invention include, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as for example polyquaternium-10; cationic gum derivatives such as for example gum derivatives, including particularly guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; polymer derivatives of diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride (“poly-DADMAs”) and of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (“poly-MAPTACs”), and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of poly-DADMAs and poly- poly-MAPTACs include polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises cationic polymers known under the INCI names polyquaternium-7, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] The cationic polymer is in an amount ranging from about 0.01 % to about 4.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Organic Acids and Salts

[0143] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise a combination of organic acids and / or salts, preferably salicylic acid and sodium benzoate.

[0144] Nonlimiting examples of organic acids include salicylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, and glycolic acid.

[0145] Nonlimiting examples of salts include sodium benzoate, sodium chloride, sodium sorbate, potassium chloride sodium lactate, potassium lactate, sodium salicylate, sodium carbonate, magnesium sulfate, and trisodium phosphate.

[0146] The organic acids and / or salts are included in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 2.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Silicone(s)

[0148] Nonlimiting examples of silicones include, but are not limited to, polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include dimethicone, cyclomethicone (cyclopentasiloxane), amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane or mixtures thereof.

[0149] In some instances, the compositions include one or more silicones selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), non-ionic dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, or mixtures thereof.

[0150] The hair cosmetic compositions may include one or more silicone oils, for example one or more non-phenyl silicone oils and / or one or more phenyl silicone oils. The silicone oil is preferably apolar. An “apolar silicone oil” is intended to denote a silicon oil that does not comprise any ionic or ionisable group(s), and preferably does not comprise any oxyalkylenated(C2-C4) unit(s) (preferably oxyethylene, oxypropylene), or glycerol unit(s).

[0151] Representative examples of non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a poly(dimethylsiloxane) (chemical name), which is particularly preferred in some instances.

[0152] The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from nonvolatile dimethicone oils. In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following nonvolatile oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs);

[0153] PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0154] PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; and polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, or mixtures thereof.

[0155] Preferably, non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyl dimethicones, and also PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C2-C24 alkyl groups, and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol, and / or amine groups.

[0156] The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of the following formula:

[0157] (XVIII) wherein:

[0158] Ri, R2, RS, and Re, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0159] Rs and R4, which may be identical or different, are independently chosen from alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical, or a hydroxyl radical,

[0160] X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, or an amine radical, and n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25 °C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) and 800 000 (cSt).

[0161] As non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which: the substituents R1 to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt; the substituents R1 to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt; the substituents R1 to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350 cSt; the substituents R1 to Re represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt.

[0162] The silicones and / or silicone oils are included in an amount ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Ethylene Glycol Ester

[0164] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one ethylene glycol ester, preferably a diester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid, an ester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid, an ester of ethylene glycol and palmitic acid, an ester of ethylene glycol and lauric acid.

[0165] The usual structure of Ethylene Glycol Esters can be represented as follows: R-CO-O-CH2CH2-O-CO-R' where:

[0166] R represents the organic acid moiety, which can vary depending on the specific ester formed.

[0167] CO represents the carbonyl group of the ester.

[0168] 0 represents the oxygen atom linking the ethylene glycol molecule. CH2CH2 represents the ethylene glycol unit.

[0169] The ethylene glycol esters are included in an amount ranging from about 0.3% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Solvents

[0171] Cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent. As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. The organic solvents for use in the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0172] The total amount of solvent may range from about 0.1 % to about 95.0%, such as from about 0.5% to about 30.0% or such as from about 1 .0% to about 20.0% by weight, or from about 50.0% to 80.0% or such as from about 60.0% to 90.0% relative to total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0173] Other Additional Ingredients

[0174] Further the additional ingredients mentioned above, other additional ingredients may be presented in the hair composition of the present invention such as any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient or carrier, which may be chosen especially from perfume / fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, active agents such as anti-dandruff agents, vitamins, fillers, and mixtures thereof. The amount of additional ingredients and other additional ingredients may range from about 0.1 % to about 40.0%, such as from about 0.5% to about 30.0% or such as from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0175] Viscosity

[0176] The viscosity of the composition according to the invention was measured in centipoise (cP) at 25 degrees centigrade using a using Brookfield viscometer. A person skilled in the art will be able to select the model and conditions appropriate for the sample being measured. The composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity from about 1.755 to 26.640, and more preferably, from about 15.000 to 17.000 cP at 25 degrees centigrade using spindle TE at 12 rpm

[0177] The compositions of the present invention may be transparent, semitransparent, or opaque, and their viscosities may vary but may be similar to or greater than that of conventional cleansing shampooing.

[0178] PROCESSES OF MANUFACTURING THE HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION EXAMPLES Example A

[0179] Suitable compositions of the present invention are according to Examples A1 to A7, and composition C1 is a comparative example, as follows in Table 1 :

[0180] Table 1 In the compositions A1 to A7, the additional components contain fragrance, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, sodium chloride, and citric acid, and the Surfactants contain cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and sodium lauryl sulfate. The compositions A1 to A7 of Table 1 were made at room temperature by dispersing the anionic polymer in the water (q.s.) with stirring up to hydration. The anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate), alkylpolyglucoside (coco glucoside) and N-methyl alkyl glucamide (lauryl / lauroyl methyl glucamide) were then added to the solution and stirred up to 10 minutes. The cationic polymer was dispersed on a side kettle with 20% water and added to the main kettle. The amphoteric surfactant (cocoamidopropyl betaine) and the alkylated fatty amide were then added to the solution along with other optional ingredients. C1 made in similar way but without glucamide and rapeseedamide.

[0181] Example B

[0182] The following compositions having the formulas set forth in Examples B1 to B4, as follows in Table 2 were made:

[0183] Table 2: In compositions B1 to B4, the surfactants contain cocam idopropyl betaine, sodium lauryl sulfate, coco-betaine, and glyceryl oleate, and the Additional Ingredients may contain one or more of the following: sodium benzoate, citric acid, sodium chloride, and salicylic acid.

[0184] The compositions B1 to B4 were made according to the following process: first the anionic was dispersed in the water (q.s.) with stirring up to hydration. The anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate), and N-methyl alkyl glucamide (lauryl / lauroyl methyl glucamide) were then added to the solution and stirred up to complete homogenization. The cationic polymer was dispersed on a side kettle with 20% water and added to the main kettle. On another side kettle, the Glyceryl Oleate was previously melted in oven 45-50 °C and added mixed along with amphoteric surfactant (cocoam idopropyl betaine) and the alkylpolyglucoside (coco glucoside). The side kettle was added to the main kettle and along with other optional ingredients.

[0185] In order to evaluate the cosmetic properties of the surface condition of a strand of damp and dry hair, before applying the shampoos to be evaluated on swatches, the swatches were washed with a standard deep cleansing solution without conditioning agents according to the procedure: 0.4 g / g of hair, without leave-in time. The application of the shampoos to be evaluated on swatches was carried out according to the operating procedure: 0.4 g / g of hair, with 1 minute leave-in time and then rinsed. The type of swatches used are bleached Caucasian hair. For each shampoo, 6 swatches were evaluated.

[0186] Each strand was attached to a force sensor connected to the upper movable crossmember of a Lloyd Instrument LS1 Digital Material Tester from Ametek with Nexygen Plus software traction-compression device. Each strand was then placed between 2 cylindrical neoprene rollers (for WET evaluation) or foam wipers (for DRY evaluation). A dead mass (200 g) (hanging in a vacuum) allowed pressure to be maintained constant between the 2 rollers or wipers. The vertical movement of the device’s bit upwards was controlled by the movable crosspiece, and the force of friction between the wick and the 2 wipers was measured as a function of the movement by the sensor.

[0187] The higher the friction force measured, the “rougher” the surface condition of the hair (i.e. the less smooth it feels). The reference was a commercial shampoo comprising one silicone and one cationic polymer having the following ingredients on its label: SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3, GLYCOL DISTEARATE, COCO-BETAINE, FRAGRANCE, COCAMIDE MEA, HEXYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM CHLORIDE, SODIUM BENZOATE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, CARBOMER, SALICYLIC ACID, GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, CITRIC ACID.

[0188] The results are shown in Table C:

[0189] This Example shows that the compositions of the present invention presented lower friction force, both on dry and wet hair, relative to that presented by a commercial benchmark shampoo, which indicates a better surface quality of the hair (i.e. superior smooth touch).

[0190] Example C

[0191] The objective of this method was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of the surface condition of a strand of damp and dry hair.

[0192] The swatches were washing according to same procedure in Example B with the difference that the swatches used were Natural Caucasian hair and each shampoo was applied on 3 swatches.

[0193] Each strand was attached to a force sensor connected to the upper movable crossmember of the traction-compression device. It was then placed between 2 cylindrical neoprene (for WET evaluation) or foam wipers (for DRY evaluation). A dead mass (hanging in a vacuum) allowed pressure to be maintained constant between the 2 wipers. The vertical movement of the bit upwards was controlled by the movable crosspiece and the force of friction between the wick and the 2 wipers was measured as a function of the movement by the sensor. The higher the friction force measured, the “rougher” the surface condition of the hair (the less smooth it feels).

[0194] The formulas were prepared according to Example A, but with a varying amount of glucamide and PEG-4 Rapeseedamine as set forth in Table D. The reference formula C1 , which is the commercial benchmark used in Example A. The method of Example B was repeated on hair swatches containing each of the Formulas listed in Table D.

[0195] All formulas with Glucamide and / or Peg-4 Rapeseedamide led to an increase in smooth touch compared to the reference without these ingredients. The formulas containing Glucamide 0,38% + Peg-4 4,6% and Glucamide 0,38% + Peg-4 2,8% showed superior smooth touch with statistical difference compared to reference and formulas containing the PEG-4 Rapeseedamide and Glucamide, respectively, alone.

[0196] NOTE: the formulations below contain the same ingredients as in Example A, but with a varying amount of PEG-4 rapeseedamide and glucamide. The method of making these compositions is same as in Example A with the addition of PEG-4 Rapeseedamide and Glucamide on C1 composition.

[0197] Table D: This Example shows that all formulas containing different ranges of glucamide and PEG-4 Rapeseedamine had better smooth touch than the comparative formulations that did not include either of these ingredients.

[0198] Example D

[0199] The objective of the test was to investigate the performance of inventive compositions A1 through A7 in Example 1 on sensorial attributes against a comparative benchmark composition having these ingredients listed on the label: aqua (water), sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, glycol distearate, sodium hydroxide, sodium benzoate, citric acid, cocamide MEA, dimethicone, carbomer, coco-betaine, salicylic acid, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hexylene glycol, amodimethicone, trideceth-10, benzyl salicylate, hexyl cinnamal, benzyl alcohol, limonene, PEG-100 stearate, coumarin, alpha-isomethyl ionone, Argania spinosa kernel oil, phenoxyethanol, citronellol, steareth-6, trideceth-3, fumaric acid, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, acetic acid, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed com protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, parfum (fragrance).

[0200] The performance of several attributes was evaluated with specific gesture on wet hair by trained experts in a blind test, on a rating scale ranging from parity, slight difference (< or >), medium difference (« or ») and high difference («< or »>). For this evaluation, the experts apply the products on half head simultaneous with prototype and bench on each side. The results on Table E represent the mean of the comparative tests for each formula vs commercial benchmark in which 6 volunteers’ hair were tested for each formula. The attributes of Detangling, Smooth touch, Coating and Softness were evaluated on damp hair after shampoos were applied and rinsed. Experts evaluated the hair by its visual and tactile properties, relative to the properties of the hair treated with the benchmark.

[0201] The median score for each formula was calculated as presented on Table E:

[0202] Table E:

[0203] The results indicated: improved detangling for formulas A1 , A2, A3, A4 and A7; improved smooth touch for formulas A1 , A2, A3, A4 and A6; improved coating for formulas A1 , A2, A3, A5, A6 and A7; improved softness for formulas A2, A3, A4 and A5.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS1 . A hair cosmetic composition comprising:(a) from 0.1 wt.% to 10.0 wt.% of at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide; and(b) from 0.1 wt.% to 10.0 wt.% of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide, relative to the total weight of the composition(c) optionally from 0.01 % to 10.0% of at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

2. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide is lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof.

3. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one alkylated fatty amide is PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof.

4. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of the at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide ranges from 0.3 wt. % to 7.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.4 wt. % to 5.0 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.5 wt. % to 3.0 wt. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of at least one alkylated fatty amide ranges from 0.3 wt. % to 6.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. % to 5.0 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.5 wt. % to 3.0 wt. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the weight ratio of the total content of N-methyl glucamide(s) to the total content of alkoxylated fatty amide(s) is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 , better between 0.01 and 0.09 even better less than or equal to 0.08, or between 0.05 and 0.1 .

7. The composition, according to claim 1 , further comprising from 0.1 wt. % to 40 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, of an anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition, according to claim 1 , comprising:(a) from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% of lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide; and(b) from 0.5 wt.% to 5.0 wt.% of PEG-4 rapeseedamide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition, according to claim 1 , further comprising at least one additional ingredient selected from solvent, a cationic polymer, an anionic polymer, an organic acid and salts thereof, a silicone, an alkylene glycol ester, or a pH adjuster.

10. Use of a hair cosmetic composition, comprising, based upon the total weight of the composition:(a) from 0.1 wt. % to 10.0 wt. % of at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide; and(b) from 0.1 wt. % to 10.0 wt. % of at least one alkylated fatty amide; wherein it is for the manufacture of a product for improving the smooth touch and conditioning of the hair.11 . Use, according to claim 10, wherein the product for improving the smooth touch and conditioning of the hair is a shampoo.

12. Use, according to claim 10, wherein the composition comprises:(a) from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% of lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide; and(b) from 0.5 wt.% to 5.0 wt.% of PEG-4 rapeseedamide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Method for improving the smooth touch of hair comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of a hair cosmetic composition, said hair composition comprising, based upon the total weight of the composition:(a) from 0.1 wt. % to 10.0 wt. % of at least one N-methyl alkyl glucamide; and(b) from 0.1 wt. % to 10.0 wt. % of at least one alkylated fatty amide.

14. Method, according to claim 13, wherein the composition comprises:(a) from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% of lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide; and(b) from 0.5 wt.% to 3.0 wt.% of PEG-4 rapeseedamide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

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