Composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials
A cosmetic composition using non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, waxes, and murumuru butter addresses the need for softness and radiance while minimizing greasiness, offering an environmentally friendly solution.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/CN2024/099998
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions fail to provide satisfactory sensory properties such as softness and natural radiance while minimizing greasiness, and there is a need for environmentally friendly, sustainable ingredients.
A composition comprising non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, waxes with a melting point below 50°C, and murumuru butter, along with optional starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, fatty alcohols, and an aqueous phase, designed to enhance skin softness and radiance.
The composition delivers desired softness, reduced greasiness, and natural radiance, while being environmentally friendly and sustainable.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2024099998-FTAPPB-I100001 
Figure PCTCN2024099998-FTAPPB-I100002 
Figure PCTCN2024099998-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND / OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALSTECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. In addition, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.BACKGROUND ART
[0002] The development of formulations dedicated to caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips, is permanent. Some formulations need to show satisfactory properties in terms of sensory, such as softness feeling and non-greasy sensory after application, and also to deliver an optical cosmetic effect, such as natural radiance.
[0003] Cosmetic products being able to bring the skin softness and / or natural radiance are known.
[0004] However, some products for providing the skin natural radiance and / or softness are still not satisfying. For example, some products are very greasy.
[0005] It is desired that cosmetic compositions do not deliver a strong greasiness.
[0006] Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, especially the skin, which can provide the keratin materials, especially the skin, good sensory, i.e., desired softness, less greasiness, and / or natural radiance.
[0007] In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0008] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.
[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new ingredients and / or active ingredients respectful of the environment, particularly of natural origin, more specifically bio-sourced and / or from sustainable sources not from petrochemicals, and / or biodegradable and / or obtained by extraction processes requiring low energy and water consumption in order to offer compositions that reduce the environmental impact of products.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0010] The inventors have now developed a composition having the desired properties as described above.
[0011] Specifically, the inventors have developed a composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up of keratin materials, which can provide the keratin materials, especially the skin, good sensory, i.e., desired softness, less greasiness, and / or natural radiance.
[0012] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the following components:
[0013] (i) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC (O) OR', and mixture thereof, wherein the R and R' groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group;
[0014] (ii) at least one wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃; and
[0015] (iii) murumuru butter.
[0016] The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can be used to care for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, to provide good sensory, i.e., desired softness, less greasiness and / or natural radiance.
[0017] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
[0018] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be set forth in the description that follows, and in part, will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the present invention.DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0019] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0020] In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .
[0021] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
[0022] Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., “consisting of” ) .
[0023] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
[0024] As used herein, the term “keratin materials” refer to the skin and the lips. By “skin” , we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material is the facial skin.
[0025] All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention comprises the following components:
[0027] (i) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC (O) OR', and mixture thereof, wherein the R and R' groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group;
[0028] (ii) at least one wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃; and
[0029] (iii) murumuru butter.
[0030] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils
[0031] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC (O) OR', and mixture thereof, wherein the R and R' groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group.
[0032] The term “non-volatile oil” is understood to mean an oil, the vapour pressure of which, at 25℃ and atmospheric pressure, is non-zero and lower than 2.66 Pa, more particularly lower than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard) .
[0033] Preferably, in formula ROR', the R and R' groups, may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising 1-16 carbon atoms, preferably 3-16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8-16 carbon atoms.
[0034] More preferably, in formula ROR', the R and R' groups, may be identical or different, represent C3-C16 alkyl, even more preferably C8-C16 alkyl.
[0035] Preferably, in formula ROC (O) OR', the R and R' groups, may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising 3-16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8-16 carbon atoms.
[0036] More preferably, in formula ROC (O) OR', the R and R' groups, may be identical or different, represent C3-C16 alkyl, even more preferably C8-C16 alkyl.
[0037] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0039] Advantageously, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, even more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0040] Waxes
[0041] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃.
[0042] As used herein, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, which is solid at room temperature (25℃) , and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
[0043] Within the meaning of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3: 1999.
[0044] Preferably, the wax has the melting point of lower than 50 ℃, preferably of from 25℃ to 45℃, more preferably of from 25℃ to 40℃.
[0045] Preferably, the wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃ is selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] More preferably, the wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃ is selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] Advantageously, the wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃ is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, even more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] Murumuru butter
[0049] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises murumuru butter.
[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
[0051] Murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of Astrocaryum murumuru, also called Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter. Astrocaryum murumuru is a palm plant which may, for example, be found in Brazil.
[0052] As an example of commercial products of murumuru butter, mention can be made of that sold under the trade name RAIN FOREST 03710 by BERACA INGR. NATURAIS (CLARIANT) .
[0053] Advantageously, murumuru butter is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 3 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] Preferably, the weight ratio of the wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃ to murumuru butter is from 0.3 to 20, preferably from 0.6 to 15, more preferably from 1 to 10, even more preferably from 2 to 8.
[0055] Starch grafted with an acrylic polymer
[0056] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer.
[0057] The starch in the composition of the present invention refers to a base starch.
[0058] Base starch, as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any of which may be suitable for use herein. Anative starch, as used herein, is one as it is found in nature. Also suitable are starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques including crossbreeding, translocation, inversion, transformation or any other method of gene or chromosome engineering to include variations thereof. In addition, starches derived from a plant grown from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which may be produced by known standard methods of mutation breeding, are also suitable herein.
[0059] Typical sources for the starches are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes, and fruits. The native source can be waxy varieties of corn (maize) , pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava) , arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, as well as low and high amylose varieties thereof.
[0060] As used herein, the term "low amylose" starch is intended to include a starch containing no more than about 10%, particularly no more than 5%, and more particularly no more than 2%of amylose by weight.
[0061] As used herein, the term "high amylose" starch is intended to include a starch containing at least about 50%, particularly at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80%of amylose by weight.
[0062] The acrylic polymer can be homopolymer or copolymer, preferably homopolymer.
[0063] Preferably, the acrylic polymer is sodium polyacrylate.
[0064] More preferably, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used comprises from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %of starch and from 70 wt. %to 99 wt. %of acrylic polymer, preferably from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %of starch and from 80 wt. %to 95 wt. %of acrylic polymer, more preferably from 8 wt. %to 15 wt. %of starch and from 85 wt. %to 92 wt. %of acrylic polymer.
[0065] In some preferable embodiment, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used is constituted of 90 wt. %of sodium polyacrylate and 10 wt. %of starch.
[0066] The starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0067] The number-average molecular weight of the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used is preferably greater than 1000 daltons.
[0068] Mention may be made of starch grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch) .
[0069] Advantageously, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.08 wt. %to 3 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, most preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Alkyl polyglucosides
[0071] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside.
[0072] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from those of formula (I) :
[0073] R-O-Gx’ (I)
[0074] wherein
[0075] R is a C6-22 alkyl group,
[0076] G is glucose unit, and
[0077] x' represents the average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10.
[0078] For a specific alkyl polyglucoside molecule, x' can only assume integral values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglucosides, there will generally be molecules having different values of x'. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which can assume non-integral values. In this disclosure, the values of x' are to be understood to be averaged values.
[0079] The hydrophilic portion of the alkyl polyglucoside is polyglucoside which contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1 to 3 glucoside units on the average.
[0080] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglucoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms on average. Preferably the alkyl group contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably the alkyl group contains from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0081] More preferably, in formula (I) :
[0082] R is a C12-20 alkyl group,
[0083] G is glucose unit,
[0084] x' is from 1 to 3.
[0085] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, and a combination thereof.
[0086] Advantageously, the alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] Fatty alcohols
[0088] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
[0089] The term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH) , and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated.
[0090] The fatty alcohols can be represented by R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0091] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol; myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol) ; cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) ; stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) ; arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) ; behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) ; lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol) ; ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol) ; montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol) ; myricylic alcohol (1-triacontanol) , and mixtures thereof.
[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms include C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
[0094] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.6 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] Aqueous phase
[0096] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0097] The aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 96 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 90 wt. %, even more preferably 50 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature 25℃, such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.
[0099] More preferably the organic solvent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] Preferably the aqueous phase comprises water, preferably in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 80 wt. %, even more preferably from 50 wt. %to 75 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] In some preferred embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises water and a polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably selected from glycerin, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
[0102] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises 50 wt. %to 75 wt. %of water and 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %of a combination of glycerin and pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] Additional adjuvants or additives
[0104] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance preserving agents and bactericides, thickeners different from starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, surfactants, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
[0105] The skilled person in the art can adjust the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0106] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0107] (i) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof;
[0108] (ii) from 1 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one wax selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof; and
[0109] (iii) from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %of murumuru butter.
[0110] Method and use
[0111] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.
[0112] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
[0113] The keratin material can be the skin, scalp. Preferably the keratin material is the facial skin.
[0114] EXAMPLES
[0115] The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0116] Main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in Table 1.
[0117] Table 1
[0118] Invention Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4
[0119] Compositions of invention examples (IE. ) 1-3 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of each ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein AM stands for active material.
[0120] Table 2
[0121] Compositions of invention examples 1-3 represent compositions according to the present invention.
[0122] Composition of comparative example 1 comprises isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate instead of component (i) .
[0123] Composition of comparative example 2 comprises hydrogenated vegetable oil instead of component (ii) .
[0124] Composition of comparative example 3 comprises copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax instead of component (ii) .
[0125] Composition of comparative example 4 comprises butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter instead of component (iii) .
[0126] Preparation process:
[0127] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
[0128] 1. phase A: introducing glycerin, pentylene glycol into water at 85℃ with stirring at 200 rpm to obtain a clean liquid, then introducing hydroxypropyl starch phosphate with stirring at 400 rpm until a homogenous phase A is obtained;
[0129] 2. phase B: mixing dicaprylyl ether (if presents) , dicaprylyl carbonate (if presents) , isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (if presents) , astrocaryum murumuru seed butter (if presents) , butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (if presents) , stearyl heptanoate (if presents) , hydrogenated coco-glycerides (if presents) , hydrogenated vegetable oil (if presents) , copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax (if presents) , C14-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside with stirring at 80℃ to obtain a clear oil phase B;
[0130] 3. introducing phase B to phase A at 70℃ with stirring at 900 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a mixture;
[0131] 4. introducing sodium polyacrylate starch into the mixture obtained in step 3 with stirring till uniform, then cooling down to room temperature (25℃) .
[0132] Evaluation of compositions
[0133] Softness level, greasiness level, and radiance delivered by compositions of invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 were evaluated.
[0134] Softness level
[0135] Softness level delivered by each of compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind test.
[0136] In order to assess the softness level, the experts applied 0.3g of each test composition on the skin. After 2 minutes, the degree of softness feeling delivered by each test composition was scored with a score of "1-5" according to the following standard and then the scores were averaged for each composition.
[0137] 1: means a very less soft feeling,
[0138] 2: means a slight soft feeling,
[0139] 3: means a moderate soft feeling,
[0140] 4: means a moderate to strong soft feeling,
[0141] 5: means a strong soft feeling.
[0142] During the test, glycerin was used as a standard sample and the softness delivered thereby was scored as 5.
[0143] For the purpose of the present invention, the higher score of the softness shows better softness level of the composition; preferably the score of the softness is 4 or above.
[0144] Greasiness level
[0145] Greasiness level delivered by each of compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind test.
[0146] In order to assess the greasiness level, the experts applied 0.3g of each test composition on the skin. Next, the greasiness level delivered by each test composition was scored with a score of "1-5" according to the following standard and then the scores were averaged for each composition.
[0147] 1: means a very less greasiness,
[0148] 2: means a slight greasiness,
[0149] 3: means a moderate greasiness,
[0150] 4: means a moderate to strong greasiness,
[0151] 5: means a strong greasiness.
[0152] During the test, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter named of FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER provided by OLVEA was used as a standard sample and the greasiness level delivered thereby was scored as 5.
[0153] For the purpose of the present invention, the lower score of the greasiness shows better greasiness level of the composition; preferably the score of the greasiness level is 2 or less.
[0154] Radiance level
[0155] Radiance level delivered by each of compositions of inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind test.
[0156] In order to assess the radiance level, the experts applied 0.3g of each test composition on the skin. After 2 minutes, the degree of skin radiance delivered by each test composition was scored with a score of "1-5" according to the following standard and then the scores were averaged for each composition.
[0157] 1: means a very less radiance,
[0158] 2: means a slight radiance,
[0159] 3: means a moderate radiance,
[0160] 4: means a moderate to strong radiance,
[0161] 5: means a strong radiance.
[0162] During the test, caprylic / capric triglyceride was used as a standard sample and the radiance level delivered thereby was scored as 5.
[0163] For the purpose of the present invention, the score of the radiance level of larger than 1 and less than 3 is preferred.
[0164] The results of each of softness level, greasiness level and radiance level delivered by compositions of invention examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 were summarized in Table 3.
[0165] Table 3
[0166] The composition of invention examples 1-3 can deliver desired softness, less greasiness, and natural radiance.
Claims
1.A composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising the following components:(i) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula ROC (O) OR', and mixture thereof, wherein the R and R' groups, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group;(ii) at least one wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃; and(iii) murumuru butter.2.Composition according to claim 1, wherein in formula ROR' and / or formula ROC (O) OR', the R and R' groups, may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising 1-16 carbon atoms, preferably 3-16 carbon atoms, more preferably 8-16 carbon atoms, even more preferably, the R and R' groups, may be identical or different, represent C8-C16 alkyl.3.Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.4.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %, even more preferably from 1 wt. %to 4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.5.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the wax has the melting point of lower than 50 ℃, preferably of from 25℃ to 45℃, more preferably of from 25℃ to 40℃; preferably the wax is selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof.6.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃ is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 8 wt. %, even more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.7.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein murumuru butter is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 3 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.8.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight ratio of the wax with the melting point of not higher than 50℃ to murumuru butter is from 0.3 to 20, preferably from 0.6 to 15, more preferably from 1 to 10, even more preferably from 2 to 8.9.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a starch grafted with an acrylic polymer.10.Composition according to the claim 9, wherein the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer comprises from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %of starch and from 70 wt. %to 99 wt. %of acrylic polymer, preferably from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %of starch and from 80 wt. %to 95 wt. %of acrylic polymer, more preferably from 8 wt. %to 15 wt. %of starch and from 85 wt. %to 92 wt. %of acrylic polymer, preferably the acrylic polymer for the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is sodium polyacrylate.11.Composition according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer is in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.08 wt. %to 3 wt. %, even more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, most preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.12.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, further comprising an aqueous phase, preferably in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 96 wt. %, more preferably from 30 wt. %to 90 wt. %, even more preferably 50 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.13.Composition according to claim 12, wherein the aqueous phase comprising at least one organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature 25℃ selected from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, polyols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, glycol ethers having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, preferably the organic solvent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.14.Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:(i) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof;(ii) from 1 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one wax selected from hydrogenated coco-glyceride, stearyl heptanoate, and mixtures thereof; and(iii) from 0.2 wt. %to 1 wt. %of murumuru butter.15.A non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Plant lipid composition for modulating functions of keratinous materials, method for modulating said functions and use of said plant lipids
CN105007894A
hair treatment preparations containing murumuru butter
DE102015220547A1
OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A FATTY ACID AND POLYOL ESTER, A FATTY ALCOHOL, A POLAR OIL AND AN ORGANIC ACID
FR3063224A1
Cosmetic composition in compact solid form comprising a wax of vegetable origin, a particular liquid compound, and a solid or semi-solid compound based on triglycerides of vegetable origin.
FR3135894A1
Aqueous cosmetic composition with fatty alcohol, saccharide ether, vegetable wax, non-siliconized oil, amylose and / or amylopectin or starch.
FR3137564A1