Biphasic de-makeup cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a biphasic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the oily phase comprising specific oils, as well as a specific quaternary mixture. The present invention also relates to the use of such compositions, as well as to a makeup removal method using such compositions.

Description

[0001] Biphasic de-makeup cosmetic composition

[0002] The present invention relates to a biphasic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the oily phase comprising specific oils, as well as a specific quaternary mixture. The present invention also relates to the use of such compositions, as well as to a makeup removal method using such compositions.

[0003] Compositions consisting of two separate phases, particularly an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate and are not emulsified in each other at rest, are generally referred to by the term “biphasic composition”. They differ from emulsions by the fact that, at rest, the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these biphasic compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, the latter needing to be of sufficient quality and stability to allow for a homogeneous application of both phases on the skin or the keratin material to which it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate quickly from each other and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being more commonly known by the term “phase separation” or “demixing”.

[0004] Relatively rapid demixing of the two phases after their use is one of the desired qualities of biphasic compositions. Indeed, achieving a rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, particularly because a poor separation of the two phases is perceived as unsightly by users and may cause the product to become “triphasic” as it is used over time.

[0005] Furthermore, marketed biphasic compositions are in particular used for removing makeup from the face, in particular from the eyes, and contain cyclopentasiloxane.

[0006] However, the cosmetics market tends to be focused on compositions that are increasingly natural, comprising more environmentally-friendly compounds and / or originating from biomass. In particular, there is a need for compositions free from cy cl o pe ntas i I oxane.

[0007] Consequently, there remains a need for novel stable biphasic compositions, consisting of two separate, non-mixable phases, free from cyclopentasiloxane, and which have good demixing qualities, while ensuring effective makeup removal. There is also a need for natural compositions. “Natural composition” means a cosmetic composition mainly formulated with natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin. “Natural ingredient” means a compound that is obtained directly from the ground or soil, or from plants or animals, if applicable, by means of one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, or filtration. Ingredients “of natural origin” means natural compounds having undergone one or more chemical treatments or related industrial treatments bringing about modifications not affecting the essential qualities of the compound, and / or a compound mainly comprising natural components which may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.

[0008] Finally, there is also a need for biphasic compositions having a flash point strictly greater than 60°C. Indeed, this makes it possible to avoid the constraints of a production in an explosion risk zone (or ATEX zone), and thus greatly facilitates the preparation and production of such compositions, particularly on an industrial scale.

[0009] The inventors surprisingly discovered that the quaternary association of isododecane, isohexadecane, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate in specific proportions, coupled with an aqueous phase, makes it possible to obtain a biphasic composition which meets these needs. The compositions according to the invention are stable, free from cyclopentasiloxane, and particularly have good demixing qualities and are very effective for makeup removal. Moreover, they have a flash point strictly greater than 60°C, which avoids constraints of production in an ATEX zone.

[0010] More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, characterized in that the oily phase comprises: from 23% to 40% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; and from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase.

[0011] Such a composition according to the invention is a biphasic composition.

[0012] The present invention also relates to a composition consisting of: from 23% to 40% of isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; and from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] This composition is also called a “quaternary mixture” in the present application. The quaternary mixture corresponds to the oily phase of the biphasic composition according to the invention.

[0014] Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise a quantity of isohexadecane strictly greater than the quantity of isododecane, and the quantity of isododecane is strictly greater than the quantity of isopropyl palmitate and / or the quantity of isopropyl myristate.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a method of makeup removal and / or cleansing and / or care of keratin materials comprising the application of a biphasic composition or a quaternary mixture according to the invention on said keratin materials, in particular keratin materials of the eyes, preferably eyelashes.

[0016] The present invention also relates to the use of a biphasic composition or a quaternary mixture according to the invention for makeup removal and / or cleansing and / or care of keratin materials, particularly keratin materials of the eyes, preferably eyelashes.

[0017] “Keratin materials” refers to the skin, mucosa and / or skin appendages. Preferably, the keratin materials are the skin, particularly facial skin, mucosa such as lips, and / or skin appendages such as eyelashes.

[0018] Oily phase

[0019] The oily phase of the biphasic composition according to the invention comprises: from 23% to 40% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; and from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase.

[0020] Preferably, the composition does not contain C15-C19 alkanes.

[0021] The quaternary mixture according to the invention consists of: from 23% to 40% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of quaternary mixture; from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of quaternary mixture; from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of quaternary mixture; and from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of quaternary mixture.

[0022] Preferably, the quaternary mixture does not contain C15-C19 alkanes.

[0023] The feature “the composition does not contain C15-C19 alkanes” or “the mixture does not contain C15-C19 alkanes” means that the biphasic composition or the quaternary mixture, respectively, are totally free from C15-C19 alkanes. These excluded C15-C19 alkanes are particularly C15-C19 branched alkanes such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN L19.

[0024] Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention contain no alkane other than isododecane and isohexadecane.

[0025] Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise a quantity of isohexadecane strictly greater than the quantity of isododecane, and the quantity of isododecane is strictly greater than the quantity of isopropyl palmitate and / or the quantity of isopropyl myristate.

[0026] The biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 23% to 40% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 23% to 37% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 23% to 35% by weight.

[0027] The biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 14% to 43% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 14% to 40% by weight.

[0028] The biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 14.5% to 33% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 14.5% to 30% by weight.

[0029] The biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight to with respect to the total weight of oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention comprise from 17% to 35% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 17% to 30% by weight.

[0030] Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention are substantially free from cyclopentasiloxane. “Substantially free from cyclopentasiloxane” means that this composition comprises less than 1% cyclopentasiloxane by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the biphasic composition and the quaternary mixture according to the invention are totally free from cy cl o pe ntas i I oxane.

[0031] Aqueous phase

[0032] The aqueous phase of the biphasic composition comprises water.

[0033] The aqueous phase optionally contains at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water, at 25°C.

[0034] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the invention comprise short-chain linear or branched alkanols for example at C2-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols particularly with 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2-pentadiol, dipropylene glycol, 2- ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols with 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably a content of between 80% and 98% by weight.

[0035] The aqueous phase can further comprise conventional cosmetic additives, such as electrolytes, chelating agents, preservatives and / or surfactants.

[0036] The electrolyte can be chosen from sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, and mixtures thereof. The electrolyte is preferably a mixture of sodium chloride, potassium phosphate and dipotassium phosphate.

[0037] Preferably, the active substance content of electrolyte(s) is between 0.2% and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight, preferably between 1% and 3% by weight.

[0038] In particular, the aqueous phase can comprise at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and non-ionic surfactants. Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, esters of fatty acid comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 5 to 8 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises from 0.015% to 7%, preferably from 0.01 % to 5%, and preferentially from 0.02% to 1 %, surfactant by weight with respect to the total weight of aqueous phase.

[0040] Alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) belong to the alkylpolyglycoside family and generally comply with the following structure: R(O)(G)Xwherein the radical R is a C12-C22 linear or branched alkyl radical, G is a glucose residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

[0041] According to the invention, the term alkylpolyglucoside (APG) also encompasses polyalkyl(poly)glucosides. As alkyl- and polyalkyl- glucosides or polyglucosides, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms are preferably used, and containing a glucoside group comprising preferably from 1 to 5, in particular 1 , 2 to 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides can be selected for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-Cg / Cn- polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the trade name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the trade name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the trade name ORAM IX NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the trade name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by SEPPIC; laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the trade name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the trade name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product marketed under the trade name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the APG is decyl glucoside.

[0042] The fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is formed from at least one fatty acid comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 8 glycerol units.

[0043] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is a mono- or diester, and preferably a mono-ester.

[0044] The term “polyglycerol” designates glyceryl polymers that are linear chains of 5 to 8 glycerol units.

[0045] The esters that are more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and carboxylic acid(s) at C8, such as caprylic acid. The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

[0046] According to one particular embodiment, esters suitable for this invention can be derived from esterification of a polyglycerol by one or several identical or different carboxylic acids. They may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated triester, or a mixture thereof.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester is selected from the esters of fatty acid comprising 8 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 6 glycerol units.

[0048] The ester of fatty acid comprising 8 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 6 glycerol units is formed (i) from at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 carbon atoms (also called C8 fatty acid), and (ii) from 6 glycerol units.

[0049] Preferably, the C8 fatty acid is saturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain. Preferably, the C8 fatty acid is caprylic acid.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester of fatty acid comprising 8 carbon atoms and of polyglycerol comprising 6 glycerol units is polyglyceryl monocaprylate comprising 6 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-6 monocaprylate (polyglyceryl-6 caprylate). Biphasic composition

[0051] The biphasic composition according to the invention consists of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate.

[0052] Preferably, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.03 and 5.8, preferably between 1.04 and 5.7.

[0053] These ratio values make it possible to obtain a biphasic composition that is excellent at makeup removal and also has a satisfactory visual appearance.

[0054] The present invention also relates to the use of the biphasic composition as defined above, or of the quaternary mixture as defined above, for makeup removal and / or cleansing of keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or mucosa (such as lips) and / or keratin fibers (such as eyelashes).

[0055] The present invention also relates to a method of makeup removal and / or cleansing of keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or mucosa (such as the lips) and / or keratin fibers (such as eyelashes), comprising the application on the keratin materials of a biphasic composition according to the invention, or of a quaternary mixture according to the invention.

[0056] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “varies from ... to ...” are to be understood to be inclusive of the bounds, unless specified otherwise.

[0057] Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided. In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless stated otherwise.

[0058] Examples

[0059] Example 1 : Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative composition

[0060] - Oily phase formulation

[0061] In a beaker, add the 4 oils (variable contents) and homogenize for 20 minutes cold. The compositions of oily phases A* (comparative) and B to D (invention) are indicated in Table 2 below. In Table 2, the percentages are by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase. Oily phase composition

[0062] [Table 2]

[0063] - Aqueous phase formulation

[0064] Aqueous phase composition [Table 1]

[0065] *a.s. = active substance

[0066] The aqueous phase is prepared as follows:

[0067] In a beaker, add the raw materials of phase A and heat to 65°C. After 20 minutes of dispersion, add the raw materials of B (the water must be cold) and disperse for 10 minutes.

[0068] - Integration in biphasic composition (weight ratio of aqueous phase: oily phase = 70: 30) Measure the density of the two phases.

[0069] To obtain a biphasic composition with a 70% aqueous phase / 30% oily phase weight ratio, perform the following calculation:

[0070] [Math 1]

[0071] [Math 2]

[0072] Calculate mphasefor each phase and pour the corresponding mass into the chosen packaging.

[0073] Each of the following compositions is obtained by mixing the aqueous phase from Table 1 with an oily phase as detailed hereinafter:

[0074] [Table 3]

[0075] Example 2: Evaluation of compositions according to the invention and comparative composition

[0076] 1 / Makeup removal effectiveness

[0077] The makeup removal effectiveness of various biphasic compositions (Reference, Comparative 1 and Invention 2 to 4) is evaluated, on a “washable” (non-water-resistant) foundation, a “washable” mascara and a waterproof (water-resistant) mascara. The reference is the following composition:

[0078] [Table 4]

[0079] “Washable” mascara application: 30 strokes of Voluminous Blackest Black mascara on the top eyelashes.

[0080] “Waterproof’ mascara application: 30 strokes of Maybelline Colossal Big Shot Waterproof Mascara on the top eyelashes.

[0081] Foundation application: 0.1 mL of Maybelline Fit Me Matte Poreless color 220 for each halfface.

[0082] Wait 30 minutes before makeup removal:

[0083] For the foundation: for each half-face, use 5 pieces of cotton wool soaked in 2ml of biphasic composition. Remove makeup from each part of the face. Wait 5 minutes, then apply 2 ml of Lancome Bifacil on a piece of cotton wool, with a maximum of 6 pieces of cotton wool. Count the number of pieces of cotton wool soaked in Bifacil required to remove the residue. For the mascara: for each eye, use 3 pieces of cotton wool soaked in 2ml of biphasic composition. Remove makeup from the eye. Wait 5 minutes, then apply 2 ml of Bifacil on a piece of cotton wool, with a maximum of 6 pieces of cotton wool.

[0084] Count the number of pieces of cotton wool soaked in Bifacil required to remove the residue.

[0085] Results:

[0086] The reference is placed at 0 pieces of cotton wool for makeup removal for the foundation and 1 piece of cotton wool for each mascara.

[0087] Comparative 1 is placed at 1 piece of cotton wool for the waterproof mascara. Biphasic composition 2 according to the invention is at 0.5 pieces of cotton wool for the foundation, 1.5 pieces of cotton for the washable mascara and 0.5 pieces of cotton wool for the waterproof mascara.

[0088] Biphasic composition 3 according to the invention is at 0 pieces of cotton wool for the foundation, 1 piece of cotton wool for the washable mascara and 0 pieces of cotton wool for the waterproof mascara.

[0089] Biphasic composition 4 according to the invention is at 0 pieces of cotton wool for the foundation, 1.5 pieces of cotton wool for the washable mascara and 0 pieces of cotton wool for the waterproof mascara.

[0090] The removal of the washable mascara shows that all biphasic compositions 2 to 4 are effective.

[0091] The removal of the foundation shows that all biphasic compositions 2 to 4 are effective, and biphasic compositions 3 and 4 perform well.

[0092] The removal of the waterproof mascara shows that all biphasic compositions 2 to 4 are effective, and biphasic composition 4 performs well.

[0093] 2 / Flash point

[0094] The flash point of each formula was determined as follows:

[0095] The flash point (FP) is the lowest temperature of a test sample of a product, brought to a barometric pressure of 101.3 kPa, at which introducing an ignition source causes the vapors of the sample to ignite after a short interval, the flame propagating on the surface of the liquid, operating under the prescribed test conditions. If the heat source is removed, the ignition stops.

[0096] This test method observes the international standard ISO 3679: 2015 (Procedure A - flash no-flash test, at equilibrium in closed cup).

[0097] The principle for determining the flash point according to ISO 3679:2015 is as follows:

[0098] A test sample of a product, of a stipulated quantity, is introduced into a closed cup, of standardized dimensions, previously set and maintained at the fixed setpoint test temperature. After a given time at thermostatically controlled equilibrium in the closed cup, the cup opens and an ignition source (incandescent filament) is introduced to the vapors. If a flame appears and spreads instantaneously on the product surface, the flash point is detected by the equipment: “Flash”.

[0099] This “Flash” flash point result is confirmed by obtaining “No flash” at the flash point temperature less 1°C. A measuring apparatus of the “Setaflash Series 8 Active Cool Flash Point Tester” type can be used.

[0100] The results are as follows: [Table 5]

[0101] Only Comparative 1 requires production in an ATEX zone.

[0102] On the other hand, biphasic compositions 2 to 4 according to the invention do not require production in an ATEX zone (flash point strictly greater than 60°C).

Claims

CLAIMS1. Cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, characterized in that the oily phase comprises: from 23% to 40% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase; and from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase.

2. Composition consisting of: from 23% to 40% of isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; from 14% to 45% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; from 14% to 35% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; and from 17% to 36% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises a quantity of isohexadecane strictly greater than the quantity of isododecane, and the quantity of isododecane is strictly greater than the quantity of isopropyl palmitate and / or the quantity of isopropyl myristate.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which does not contain C15-C19 alkanes.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 23% to 37% isododecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 23% to 35% by weight.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 14% to 43% isohexadecane by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 14% to 40% by weight.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 14.5% to 33% isopropyl palmitate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 14.5% to 30% by weight.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises from 17% to 35% isopropyl myristate by weight with respect to the total weight of oily phase, preferably from 17% to 30% by weight.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free from cyclopentasiloxane, preferably which is totally free from cy cl o pe ntas i I oxane.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 3 to 9, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of aqueous phase, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably a content of between 80% and 98% by weight.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 3 to 10, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one adjuvant chosen from electrolytes, chelating agents, preservatives, and surfactants.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 3 to 11 , wherein the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.03 and 5.8, preferably between 1.04 and 5.7.

13. Use of a composition according to one of the preceding claims, for makeup removal and / or cleansing of keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or mucosa such as the lips, and / or keratin fibers such as eyelashes.

14. Method of makeup removal and / or cleansing of keratin materials, preferably the skin and / or mucosa such as the lips, and / or keratin fibers such as eyelashes, comprising the application on the keratin materials of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12.

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