Composition comprising glucomannan
A glucomannan and oil-based composition effectively removes makeup and exfoliates the skin by forming noodle-like aggregates, addressing the need for sustainable and effective cleansing products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2025/080079
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-08-05
- Filing Date
- 2025-06-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing cleansing products struggle to effectively remove makeup while being environmentally friendly and providing a unique user experience, particularly due to the accumulation of greasy residues and waterproof makeup in skin pores, and there is a need for sustainable compositions using renewable raw materials.
A composition comprising glucomannan and oil, with glucomannan ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and oil from 1% to 40% by weight, which forms aggregates resembling noodles during use, acting as scrub particles for effective makeup removal and exfoliation, while being environmentally friendly.
The composition provides good makeup removability, a unique user experience, and exfoliation, while being environmentally friendly by using renewable glucomannan and oils, offering a fun and comfortable cleansing experience.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION
[0003] COMPOSITION COMPRISING GLUCOMANNAN
[0004] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0005] The present invention relates to a composition for treating a keratin material such as skin.
[0006] BACKGROUND ART
[0007] Cleansing the skin is very important for caring for the face. It must be as effective as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, tend to accumulate in the skin folds such as wrinkles and block the pores of the skin which may result in the appearance of spots.
[0008] Thus, in the field of cosmetics, cleansing products have been widely used for cleansing a keratin material such as skin, in particular for removing makeup on the keratin material.
[0009] Some of the cleansing products include small particles called “scrubs”. The “scrubs” can contribute to physically removing dirt or makeup on a keratin material such as skin.
[0010] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0011] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as new cleansing compositions, with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.
[0013] There is always a need to develop new cleansing composition that can provide good make-up removability.
[0014] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0015] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide good makeup removability as well as a unique feeling in use.
[0016] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising:
[0017] (a) at least one glucomannan; and
[0018] (b) at least one oil, wherein the amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The (a) glucomannan may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
[0020] The (a) glucomannan may be derived from konjac.
[0021] The amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The (b) oil may be selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkylethers, linear or branched alkanes with carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.
[0023] The amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) water, preferably with an amount of from 50% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one emulsifier.
[0026] The (d) emulsifier may be selected from (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, (d2) gemini surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0027] The (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters, preferably from polyglyceryl caprate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl oleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl caprylate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyglyceryl caprylate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units.
[0028] The (d2) gemini surfactant be selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (A): wherein
[0029] Y’ independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, j1 , k1 , j2 and k2 denote integers such that (j1 , k1 , j2, k2) = any of (2, 0,2,0), (2, 0,0, 2), (0,2, 2,0) and (0, 2, 0, 2), and
[0030] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12, preferably from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.
[0031] The amount of the (d) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin material.
[0033] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of massaging the keratin material.
[0034] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may be for cleansing the keratin material, preferably for removing makeup from a keratin material, and more preferably for removing makeup from skin or eyelashes.
[0035] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0036] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which can provide good makeup removability as well as a unique feeling in use.
[0037] Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising:
[0038] (a) at least one glucomannan; and
[0039] (b) at least one oil, wherein the amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0040] The composition according to the present invention can provide good makeup removability. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for cleansing a keratin material such as skin.
[0041] Moreover, the composition according to the present invention can provide a unique feeling in use, because it can generate aggregates which may be in the form of noodles, during the use of the composition. For example, by massaging with fingers a keratin material such as skin on which the composition according to the present invention exists, the composition according to the present invention can generate the aggregates derived from the (a) glucomannan which may be in the form of noodles. A user of the composition according to the present invention can have a fun experience during use.
[0042] The aggregates which may be in the form of noodles generated by the composition according to the present invention can be soft, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention can also provide a comfortable feeling in use.
[0043] In addition, the aggregates which may be in the form of noodles generated by the composition according to the present invention can function as “scrub” particles. Thus, they can contribute to exfoliating the superficial layer of a keratin material such as the surface of the homy layer of skin. Accordingly, the aggregates which may be in the form of noodles can contribute to effectively removing dirt or makeup on a keratin material such as skin. In addition, the aggregates which may be in the form of noodles can contribute to the acceleration of the turnover of the superficial layer of a keratin material such as the surface of the homy layer of skin. Therefore, the aggregates which may be in the form of noodles can also provide a fresh feeling.
[0044] The aggregates which may be in the form of noodles generated by the composition according to the present invention can be formed by the (a) glucomannan which can be derived from natural resources. Thus, the composition according to the present invention are environmentally friendly.
[0045] The above effects and advantages provided by the composition according to the present invention can also apply to the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention.
[0046] Hereafter, the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.
[0047] [Composition]
[0048] One aspect of the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising:
[0049] (a) at least one glucomannan; and
[0050] (b) at least one oil, wherein the amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Glucomannan)
[0051] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glucomannan. A single type of glucomannan may be used, or two or more different types of glucomannans may be used in combination.
[0052] The (a) glucomannan may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the (a) glucomannan is a mixture of water- soluble glucomannan and water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0053] The “water-soluble” here means that (a) glucomannan can have a water-solubility at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a water (pH=7) of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more.
[0054] The “water-insoluble” here means that (a) glucomannan can have a water-solubility at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a water (pH=7) of less than 0.1% by weight.
[0055] Glucomannan is a polysaccharide with a high molecular weight (typically 500,000 < Mwglucomannan< 2,000,000), composed of D-glucose and D-mannose units, wherein D-glucose and D-mannose are bonded in a ratio of about 2:3 (1 : 1.6) via β-1,4-glycosidic bonds.
[0056] Glucomannan is substantially linear polysaccharide, but may have a branch approximately every 50 or 60 units. A part of the hydroxyl groups of the polysaccharide are acetylated.
[0057] Glucomannan can be found in wood, but it is also the main constituent of konjac gum. Thus, glucomannan may be derived from konjac (Amorphophallus konjac). Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.
[0058] Glucomannan is originally water-soluble. The glucomannan originally obtained from konjac can be used as a water-soluble glucomannan.
[0059] The water-soluble glucomannan may function as a thickener for the composition according to the present invention.
[0060] On the other hand, glucomannan can be treated to be water-insoluble. For example, JP-A- 2000-344801 and JP-A-2006-169300 disclose a method for producing water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0061] For example, the water-insoluble glucomannan may be prepared by the steps of:
[0062] (1) dissolving a glucomannan-rich flour in water to make a solution;
[0063] (2) mixing the solution with ethanol to precipitate glucomannan;
[0064] (3) adding an alkali to the resulting mixture to transform the precipitated glucomannan particles into water-insoluble, irreversible hydrogel particles;
[0065] (4) separating the glucomannan hydrogel particles from the liquid;
[0066] (5) drying the separated hydrogel particles; and
[0067] (6) milling and sieving the dried gel particles to a desired particle size.
[0068] The term “glucomannan-rich flour” as used herein collectively refers to refined konjac flour, purified glucomannan flour and rapidly dissolvable konjac flour.
[0069] In step (1), the starting glucomannan-rich flour can be dissolved in water to make an aqueous solution. Since the glucomannan solution may be very viscous, its concentration may be less than 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.
[0070] In step (2), the glucomannan solution can be mixed with ethanol, preferably by adding the solution gradually to ethanol with stirring whereupon glucomannan precipitates as fibrous particles.
[0071] Since glucomannan is not soluble in ethanol or an aqueous ethanolic mixture containing more than 30% by weight of ethanol, the weight ratio of ethanol to the glucomannan solution may be at least 3:7.
[0072] In step (3), the precipitated glucomannan particles can be reacted with an alkali to produce a water-insoluble, thermally irreversible hydrogel. The reaction may be carried out by adding an alkali solution to the water-ethanol mixture containing the precipitated glucomannan. Any alkali such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate may be used. A saturated lime water is preferable as is common practice in the production of edible konjac. Different from edible konjac, glucomannan gels while retaining a fibrous particulate form. This makes the separation of gel from the liquid easier.
[0073] In step (4), the gel particles can be separated from the liquid in a centrifuge, for example, and washed with an aqueous ethanol at least once. If necessary, the washing solution may contain a non-toxic organic acid such as acetic or citric acid to neutralize the excess of alkali.
[0074] In step (5), the gel particles thus separated can be thoroughly dried to remove the majority of water in a conventional apparatus, preferably in a hot air dryer at about 105 °C or more.
[0075] In step (6), the dried gel particles can be milled and sieved to obtain a final product having a desired size.
[0076] The water-insoluble glucomannan may be in the form of gel particles. The particle size of the water- insoluble glucomannan may be from 10 to 500 microns, preferably from 50 to 500 microns, and more preferably from 100 to 500 microns. The particle size may be a volumebased particle size.
[0077] The water-insoluble glucomannan may be de-acetylated, because the action of the alkali used during the process for preparing the water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0078] The de-acetylated water-insoluble glucomannan can easily aggregate due to hydrogen bonds between the hydroxyl groups of the glucomannan molecules to form a gel.
[0079] If an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, such as Ca(OH)2, or a salt thereof, is used as the alkali, the water-insoluble glucomannan may be crosslinked, by the divalent alkaline earth metal ion such as Ca2+.
[0080] As the (a) glucomannan, a commercially available product, such as konjac flour series sold by BLG (Shanghai Brilliant Gum Co., Ltd.) in China and Propol® ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical in Japan, may be used.
[0081] The amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] The amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0083] The amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] (Oil)
[0085] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil. A single type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0086] The (b) oil can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0087] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid), preferably a liquid, at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.
[0088] The (b) oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0089] The (b) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0090] The (b) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
[0091] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0093] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0094] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1- C26aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1- C26aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0095] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0096] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0097] Esters of C4-C22dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0098] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0099] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. Note that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0100] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0101] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30and preferably C12-C22fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0102] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0104] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
[0105] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0106] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2- ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] As ether oils, mention may be made of dialkylethers such as those represented by the following formula:
[0108] R1-O-R2wherein each of R1and R2independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-24alkyl group, preferably C6-18alkyl group, and more preferably C8-12alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1and R2are the same.
[0109] As the linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.
[0110] As the branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2- methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5- methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5- methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5- methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2- hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1, 1,3,3- tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyyl group, and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0111] As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0112] It may be preferable that the ether oil be selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] It may be more preferable that the ether oil be selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate). As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Preferably, silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0116] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0117] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0118] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0119] (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
[0120] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0121] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x 10-6m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
[0122] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0123] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione®oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil®series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and the Viscasil®oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF
[0124] 18) from General Electric.
[0125] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0126] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0127] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which
[0128] R1to R10, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is not 0.
[0129] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1to R10are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.
[0130] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
[0131] The term “hydrocarbon” here means a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not comprise any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.
[0132] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.
[0133] The hydrocarbon oil may be from plant, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably from plant origin.
[0134] The hydrocarbon oil is preferably an apolar oil. The term “apolar oil” used herein means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, 5a, is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0135] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.
[0136] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be volatile. In other words, it is preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0137] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile” oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a liquid at room temperature especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
[0138] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point of greater than 65 °C, and better still greater than 80 °C.
[0139] The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from branched C8-C22hydrocarbons, preferably branched C9-C21hydrocarbons, and more preferably branched C10-C20alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated famesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane, and a mixture thereof.
[0140] On the other hand, the hydrocarbon oil may also be chosen from linear C8-C22hydrocarbons, preferably linear C9-C21hydrocarbons, and more preferably linear C10-C20alkanes. It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of n- decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n- hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane, and a mixture thereof.
[0141] As the hydrocarbon oil, one or more commercial products may be used. For example, as the hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made of C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, and a mixture thereof.
[0142] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from mineral oil, liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, squalane or squalene, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as Indopol H-l 00 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H- 300 (MW = 1,340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2,160 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6,000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1,000 g / mol), or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol
[0143] L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9,200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical), and mixtures thereof.
[0144] In one embodiment, the (b) oil may be selected from non-silicone oils.
[0145] It may be preferable that the (b) oil be selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] It may be more preferable that the (b) oil be selected from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, symmetric ether oils, linear or branched alkanes with carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] It may be even more preferable that the (b) oil be selected form the group consisting of C15- 19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0148] The amount of (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably from 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The amount of (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, more preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] The amount of (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] (Water)
[0152] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) water.
[0153] The (c) water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0154] The amount of the (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0155] On the other hand, the amount of the (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 93% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0156] The amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0157] (Emulsifier)
[0158] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one emulsifier. A single type of the emulsifier may be used, or two or more different types of the emulsifiers may be used in combination.
[0159] The (d) emulsifier is capable of making the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an emulsion.
[0160] It is preferable that the (d) emulsifier be biodegradable.
[0161] The amount of the (d) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0162] On the other hand, the amount of the (d) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] Thus, the amount of the (d) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0164] The (d) emulsifier may be selected from (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, (d2) gemini surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0165] Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters The (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
[0166] It may be preferable that the (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 6 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it may be preferable that the (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise from 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units, more preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.
[0167] The (d1) poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 sesquistearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 sesquiisostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 sesquistearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 sesquiisostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 tetraisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] The (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 4.0 to 16.0, preferably from 4.5 tol5.5, and more preferably from 5.0 to 15.0. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. The (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters, preferably from polyglyceryl caprate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl oleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl caprylate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyglyceryl caprylate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units.
[0169] The amount of the (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] On the other hand, the amount of the (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] Accordingly, the amount of the (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] Gemini Surfactants
[0173] The (d2) gemini surfactants or dimeric surfactants are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:
[0174] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; and
[0175] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, No. 7, pp. 67-70.
[0176] The (d2) gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereafter, it may be referred to as “amide compound”). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A):
[0177] wherein
[0178] Y’ independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, j1 , k1 , j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j1 , k1 , j2, k2) = any of (2, 0,2,0), (2, 0,0, 2), (0,2, 2,0) and (0,2, 0,2), and
[0179] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, and more preferably 10 to 12.
[0180] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1 = k2 = 2.
[0181] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y’ is -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2; and L = 10.
[0182] The amide compound can be prepared by, for example, reacting a long chain N-acyl acidic amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5°C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C, and more preferably 0°C to 60°C.
[0183] As the amide compound, mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.
[0184] Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is in particular preferable. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is marketed as Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or as Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of sodium dilauramidoglutamide ly sine and of butyleneglycol.
[0185] In another embodiment, the (d2) gemini surfactants can also comply with the following formula (I): wherein:
[0186] R1and R3represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical, comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms;
[0187] R2represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0188] X and Y represent, independently of each other, a -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ group, wherein:
[0189] Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, wherein M represent H or an alkali metal or alkali earth metal ion or an ammonium or alkanolammonium ion; a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and n varies from 1 to 10.
[0190] The (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each one of the R1-CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a residue of coconut fatty acid (comprising mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0191] In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each one of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has an average value that varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the — SO3Mgroup, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.
[0192] The spacer R2consists advantageously of a C1-C3linear alkylene chain and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0193] A surfactant of this type is in particular the one identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: with the understanding that PEG represents the CH2CH2O group and that “cocoyl” represents the coconut fatty acid residue.
[0194] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.
[0195] Preferably, the (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) may be used in a mixture with other surfactants, and in particular in a mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22fatty acid (preferably C14-C20such as stearate) and of glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22fatty acid (preferably C14- C20such as stearate) and of citric acid and glycerol (in particular a C6-C22fatty acid ester and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C10-C30fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
[0196] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 sulfate, of glyceryl stearate, of glyceryl stearate monocitrate and of behenyl alcohol.
[0197] For example, the (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:
[0198] Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),
[0199] Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and
[0200] Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI name).
[0201] The (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may comprise, as the (d2) gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material with INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution® H by Sasol.
[0202] The amount of the (d2) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0203] On the other hand, the amount of the (d2) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0204] Thus, the amount of the (d2) gemini surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0205] (Other Ingredients)
[0206] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
[0207] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants other than the (d) emulsifier; lipophilic or hydrophilic thickeners other than the above ingredient (a), fragrances; preservatives, copreservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
[0208] The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0209] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free from silicone. The term “substantially free from silicone” means that the composition according to the present invention comprises no silicone, or comprises at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0210] In another embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may be substantially free from fatty alcohols. The term “substantially free from fatty alcohols” means that the composition according to the present invention comprises no fatty alcohol, or comprises at least one fatty alcohol in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] The fatty alcohol is a monovalent alcohol. The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
[0212] (Embodiments)
[0213] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; and from 1% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil.
[0214] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 1% to 10% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; and from 3% to 35% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0215] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; and from 5% to 30% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkylethers, linear or branched alkanes with carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof.
[0216] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 1% to 3% by weight of (a) at least one glucomannan; and from 5% to 30% by weight of (c) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0217] [Preparation]
[0218] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0219] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0220] [Form]
[0221] The composition according to the present invention may be in various forms.
[0222] If the composition according to the present invention includes (c) water, in one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be, for example, in the form of a fluid such as an aqueous solution or dispersion. The aspect of the composition according to the present invention in this case may be a gel, because the (a) glucomannan may function as a thickener, if the glucomannan is water-soluble.
[0223] If the composition according to the present invention includes (c) water and (d) emulsifier, in another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0224] The composition according to the present invention in the form of an O / W emulsion can comprise dispersed fatty phases such as oil phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases can be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O / W gel emulsion.
[0225] The O / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention with the O / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant feeling during use because of the feeling of immediate freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0226] On the other hand, the composition according to the present invention may have two visually distinct phases. One of the two phases is a fatty phase, and the other is an aqueous phase. The two phases can be in the form of two layers. The two layers can be laminated or stacked. Typically, the fatty phase or the fatty layer is present on the aqueous phase or the aqueous layer, because the ingredient(s) in the fatty phase has (have) a relatively smaller density than water .
[0227] The composition according to the present invention with two visually distinct phases may be referred to as a “two-phase” or “bi-phase” composition.
[0228] If the specific gravity of the fatty phase is smaller than that of the aqueous phase, the fatty phase is present on the aqueous phase, in the composition according to the present invention. Typically, the fatty phase is present on the aqueous phase, at rest, because the specific gravity of oil tends to be smaller than that of water.
[0229] The bi-phase composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single phase composition when being mixed. The composition according to the present invention after mixing can be of the O / W type or W / O type, preferably in the form of an O / W or W / O liquid composition, and more preferably in the form of an O / W or W / O emulsion.
[0230] The bi-phase composition according to the present invention has two visually distinct phases when not being mixed. However, the bi-phase composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single phase composition by mixing when being used. The single phase composition, such as an emulsion, can provide good cosmetic effects such as good make-up removability, without discomfort such as stickiness. The single phase composition can return to a bi-phase composition when not being used.
[0231] The fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophobic ingredient in addition to the (b) oil.
[0232] For example, the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble cosmetic active ingredient. A single type of such cosmetic active ingredient, or two or more different types of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0233] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0234] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0235] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] The aqueous phase, if present, in the composition according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophilic ingredient in addition to the (c) water.
[0237] For example, the aqueous phase, if present, of the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. A single type of such cosmetic active ingredient, or two or more different types of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0238] In addition, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent such as diol and polyol.
[0239] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0240] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0242] The weight ratio of the fatty phase / the aqueous phase may be from 50 / 50 to 1 / 99, preferably from 50 / 50 to 5 / 95, and more preferably from 50 / 50 to 10 / 90. [Application]
[0243] The composition according to the present invention may be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably as a cosmetic composition for cleansing, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing a keratin material.
[0244] The keratin material may be skin, nails, mucosae such as lips, or keratin fibers such as eyebrow and eyelashes. The skin here encompasses facial skin, neck skin, and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention may also be used for mucosae such as lips.
[0245] The composition according to the present invention may be categorized as so-called “gommage” products which may be similar to scrubbing products including “scrub” particles which are useful for physical exfoliation (removing the surface of the horny layer of skin).
[0246] If the composition according to the present invention is the bi-phase composition as explained above, it may be mixed by, for example, shaking with the hands (hand-shaking). After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form a single phase composition. The single phase composition can be applied onto a keratin material to perform target cosmetic effects.
[0247] The composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects such as make-up removal.
[0248] The composition according to the present invention can be used as it is (as a topical product), or can be used by being impregnated into a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric and a wipe, preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton.
[0249] [Process]
[0250] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin material.
[0251] If the composition according to the present invention is the bi-phase composition as explained above, the cosmetic process for a keratin material according to the present invention may comprise, at least, the steps of mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a single phase composition; and applying the single phase composition onto the keratin material.
[0252] The single phase composition does not have two visually distinct phases. Instead, the single phase composition has a single phase which is typically an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it may be translucent or opaque.
[0253] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of massaging the keratin material.
[0254] By massaging the keratin material, the composition according to the present invention can easily form particles in the form of noodles. The particles in the form of noodles may function as “scrub” particles.
[0255] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may be for cleansing the keratin material, preferably for removing makeup from a keratin material, and more preferably for removing makeup from skin or eyelashes.
[0256] [Use]
[0257] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above for removing makeup from a keratin material, and more preferably for removing makeup from skin or eyelashes.
[0258] Moreover, the present invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above as a gommage product for the keratin material.
[0259] The present invention may also relate to a use of:
[0260] (a) at least one glucomannan in a composition comprising (b) at least one oil, wherein the amount of the (a) glycomannan in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to generate aggregates derived from the (a) glucomannan.
[0261] The above composition may further comprise any one, two or all of the ingredients (c) and (d) as described above.
[0262] The above aggregates which may be in the form of noodles may function as “scrub” particles.
[0263] The composition in the use according to the present invention may be for cleansing a keratin material, preferably for removing makeup from the keratin material, and more preferably for removing makeup from skin.
[0264] EXAMPLES
[0265] The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0266] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3
[0267] [Preparation]
[0268] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of tiie ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. Table 1
[0269] [Evaluation]
[0270] (Makeup Removability)
[0271] First, fake eyelashes were provided. The original weight of the fake eyelashes was measured.
[0272] Second, a water-proof mascara was applied on fake eyelashes. After drying the water-proof mascara, the weight of the fake eyelashes coated with the water-proof mascara was measured.
[0273] Then, the amount (A) of the water-proof mascara on the eyelashes was determined by subtracting the original weight of the fake eyelashes from the weight of the fake eyelashes coated with the water-proof mascara.
[0274] Third, the fake eyelashes were wiped 40 times with a wipe including the same amount of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. After wiping, the fake eyelashes were washed with water, and dried. Then, the weight of the fake eyelashes after wiping was measured.
[0275] The amount (B) of the water-proof mascara remaining on the eyelashes was determined by subtracting the original weight of the fake eyelashes from the weight of the fake eyelashes after wiping.
[0276] The makeup removability (%) was determined by (A-B) / A.
[0277] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0278] The higher value (%) in “Makeup Removability” in Table 1 indicates a higher makeup removability, meaning that more amount of the water-proof mascara was removed.
[0279] (Noodle Generation)
[0280] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was applied on a hand, and massaged with fingers. The generation of aggregates in the form of noodles was observed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0281] Yes: Noodles were generated.
[0282] No: Noodles were not generated.
[0283] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0284] (Summary)
[0285] Table 1 shows that the compositions according to Examples 1-3 can provide higher makeup removability than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3 which did not include any glucomannan, any oil, or a sufficient amount of glucomannan, respectively.
[0286] Table 1 also shows that the compositions according to Examples 1-3 can generate noodles while the compositions according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include any glucomannan could not generate noodles and could not provide good makeup removability. The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which included glucomannans generated noodles, but could not provide good makeup removability because it did not include any oil.
[0287] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which included glucomannans in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, could not generate noodles, and could not provide good makeup removability.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for cleansing, comprising:(a) at least one glucomannan; and(b) at least one oil, wherein the amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) glucomannan is selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) glucomannan is derived from konjac.
4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the (a) glucomannan(s) in the composition is from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) oil is selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkylethers, linear or branched alkanes with carbon chain length of C11 to C20, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, further comprising (c) water, preferably with an amount of from 50% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, further comprising (d) at least one emulsifier.
9. The composition according to Claim 8, wherein the (d) emulsifier is selected from (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, (d2) gemini surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to Claim 9, wherein the (d1) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters, preferably from polyglyceryl caprate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl oleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl caprylate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyglyceryl caprylate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units.
11. The composition according to Claim 9, wherein the (d2) gemini surfactant be selected from the compounds represented by the following formula (A):whereinY’ independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, j1 , k1 J2 and k2 denote integers such that ( j1 , k1 , j2, k2) = any of (2, 0,2,0), (2, 0,0, 2), (0,2, 2,0) and (0,2, 0,2), and1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12, preferably from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine, and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine, and a mixture thereof.
12. The composition according to any one of Claims 8 to 11, wherein the amount of the (d) emulsifier(s) in the composition is from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. A cosmetic process for a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12 onto the keratin material.
14. The cosmetic process according to Claim 13, further comprising the step of massaging the keratin material.
15. The cosmetic process according to Claim 13 or 14, for cleansing the keratin material, preferably for removing makeup from a keratin material, and more preferably for removing makeup from skin or eyelashes.
Citation Information
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