Composition comprising a mixture of microcrystalline wax and apolar oil selected from branched alkanes

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes including a fraction of branched chains, of the microcrystalline wax type and at least one apolar oil liquid at room temperature selected from among branched alkanes

Description

[0001] Composition comprising a mixture of microcrystalline wax and apolar oil selected from branched alkanes

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane, of the microcrystalline wax type and at least one apolar oil liquid at room temperature selected from among branched alkanes.

[0003] The skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly.

[0004] The human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

[0005] The epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming the germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedric cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called the stratum granulosum composed of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains and finally, a set of upper layers called corneal layers (or stratum comeum), composed of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.

[0006] Corneocytes are anucleate cells composed principally of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. There is permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.

[0007] However, an imbalance between the production of cells in the base layer and the desquamation rate can lead to the formation of scales on the skin surface. Similarly, for various reasons, a deficit of terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum can lead to the formation of large, thick clumps of cells, visible to the naked eye and called “dander”, or in other situations, to thinning of the stratum corneum. This can cause fragility of the barrier properties of the epidermis, chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum, loss of mechanical elasticity, tightness, and make the skin lose its luster and transparency. Consequently, there is a need for compositions improving the hydration condition of the skin, avoiding tightness and feelings of discomfort during application thereof on the skin, without leaving a tacky film on the skin.

[0008] Compositions based on petroleum jelly (Petrolatum) generally offer good performance, however these compositions are derived from petroleum. However, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. the design and development of which account for environmental concerns, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It has therefore become essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a good wilderness quality index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly those of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0010] The Inventors have now discovered that the combination of at least one specific microcrystalline wax and at least one apolar oil consisting of branched alkane(s) makes it possible to obtain a composition that is easy to apply, without a greasy and heavy sensation on application. Moreover, the combination makes it possible to obtain hydrating compositions that improve the suppleness of the skin.

[0011] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane; b) at least one apolar oil selected from branched alkanes liquid at room temperature; and c) optionally, at least one polar oil liquid at room temperature comprising at least one ester or ether or alcohol function, the content by weight of the apolar oil b) being higher than or equal to the content by weight of the polar oil c), wherein the ratio between the amount of wax a) and the total amount of wax a) and apolar b) and possibly polar c) oils is between 0.05 and 0.3.

[0012] By “between”, it should be understood the entire range of values, limits inclusive.

[0013] The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, skin appendages and / or keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0014] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to hydrate the skin.

[0015] Waxes

[0016] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax a) consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane.

[0017] By “long-chain”, it should be understood a chain having a number of carbons ranging from 20 to 70. Preferably, the wax a) consists of a mixture of linear alkanes and branched alkanes, said linear and branched alkanes having a number of carbons ranging from 20 to 70.

[0018] By “wax”, it should be understood a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure(1.013x105Pa), having a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point higher than or equal to 30°C that can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C. Preferably, the wax a) suitable for the invention has a melting point higher than or equal to 45°C. In particular, the wax(es) suitable for the invention may have a melting point higher than or equal to 45°C and lower than or equal to 120°C, in particular lower than or equal to 90°C.

[0019] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) is the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC), as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:2018.

[0020] The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the trade name “Discovery DSC 2500” by the TA Instruments company with the “TA Trios” software. The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0021] A wax sample of about 5 mg is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, and is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed.

[0022] For the purposes of the invention, the waxes are selected from amon mixtures of linear alkanes (n-alkanes) and branched alkanes (iso-alkanes) having a number of carbons ranging from 20 to 70, such as microcrystalline waxes (INCI name: CERA MICROCRISTALLINA).

[0023] Among the microcrystalline waxes, mention may be made of the commercial product PARACERA HW (melting point of about 83°C) or the commercial product MICROWAX HW (melting point of about 87°C) from the supplier Paramelt, the commercial product WHITEMICROCRYSTALLINE WAX SP-18 (melting point of about 48.8°C) or MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX SP-96 (melting point of about 66.7°C) from the supplier Strahl & Pitsch, the commercial product CEREWAX M 85 / C (melting point of about 83.3°C) or CEREWAX N°3 (melting point of about 90°C) from the supplier Baerlocher, the commercial product MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX DNW-1705 (melting point of about 79°C) from the supplier Dong Nam Petrochemical or the commercial product MULTIWAX 180 M (melting point of about 56.1°C) from the supplier Sonneborn.

[0024] Preferably, the microcrystalline wax(es) is(are) present in an amount ranging from 4% to 45% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, or even more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] According to the invention, the ratio between the amount of wax a) and the total amount of wax a) and apolar oil(s) b) and possibly polar oil(s) c) is between 0.05 and 0.3. As demonstrated in the examples, this microcrystalline waxes I (microcrystalline waxes + oils) weight ratio ranging from 0.05 to 0.3 is the only one making it possible to obtain the desired texture. In other words, the content of wax a) is higher than or equal to 5% and lower than or equal to 30% of the total weight of wax a), apolar oil(s) b) and possibly polar oil(s) c) (i.e. total weight of wax a) + apolar oil(s) b) + possibly polar oil(s) c)). This content ranging from 5% to 30% is the only one making it possible to obtain the desired texture.

[0026] Preferably, the ratio between the amount of wax a) and the total amount of wax a) and apolar oil(s) b) and possibly polar oil(s) c) is between 0.1 and 0.25.

[0027] Preferably, the content by weight of the wax a) is strictly lower than the content by weight of the apolar oil b).

[0028] Apolar oils

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar oil b) selected from among branched alkanes liquid at room temperature. For the purposes of the present invention, by “Apolar oil”, it should be understood an oil selected from among saturated hydrocarbons, i.e. from among compounds liquid at room temperature (25 °C) comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and comprising only single bonds.

[0030] Preferably, the liquid apolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from among branched alkanes comprising between 10 and 60 carbon atoms, preferably between 15 and 31 carbon atoms.

[0031] Preferably, the liquid apolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from among branched alkanes having a molar mass lower than or equal to 1 ,000 g / mol.

[0032] Typically, the liquid apolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from among biodegradable branched alkanes.

[0033] Preferably, according to the invention, the liquid apolar hydrocarbon oil is selected from among branched alkanes comprising between 10 and 30 carbon atoms.

[0034] More particularly, according to the invention, the liquid apolar hydrocarbon oil may be selected from among branched alkanes of plant or synthetic origin, preferably from among squalane, hemisqualane, and mixtures thereof. The liquid apolar hydrocarbon oil may also be selected from among C13-15 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ L15, C15-19 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ L19, EMOGREEN™ L15 or EMOGREEN™ L19, C18-21 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ V21 and C21-28 alkanes such as the product EMOSMART™ C28.

[0035] Squalane (C30H62, chemical name 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms of the following formula:

[0036] It is obtained by hydrogenating squalene (C3oH5o). Squalane, given its saturated chemical structure, is much more stable than squalene which is very readily peroxidized.

[0037] The squalane used in the invention is preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the squalane is sourced from plant oils, preferably derived from cane sugar or olive oil, wheat germ oil, bran oil, rice oil. Preferably, in the present invention, the squalane is obtained by green chemistry processes, from cane sugar.

[0038] For example, the product marketed under the name Neossance® Squalane by Amyris will be used.

[0039] Hemisqualane (C15H32, chemical name 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 15 saturated carbon atoms of the following formula:

[0040] [Chem 2]

[0041] The hemisqualane used in the invention is for example the product marketed under the name Neossance Hemisqualane CN by Amyris.

[0042] Preferably, the apolar oil(s) (b) is(are) present in a content between 20% and 96% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90% by weight, preferably between 35% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Preferably, when a polar oil is present, the weight ratio between the apolar oil(s) b) and the sum of the apolar and polar oil(s) (b+c) is higher than or equal to 0.5.

[0044] Polar oils

[0045] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar oil c) liquid at room temperature comprising at least one ester or ether or alcohol function. When the composition comprises at least one polar oil c), then the content by weight of the apolar oil b) is higher than or equal to the content by weight of the polar oil c).

[0046] For the purposes of the invention, by “polar oil”, it should be understood liquid compounds at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013x105Pa), comprising, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

[0047] As polar oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made for example of:

[0048] - liquid triglycerides of fatty acids including from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1C00R2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; plant oils composed of esters, particularly jojoba oil; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

[0049] - ethers, such as those of formula R1OR2 wherein R1 and R2 are alkyl chains of length having from 3 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example ethers such as dicaprylyl ether (or di-n-octyl ether) marketed by Cognis under the name Cetiol OE, or by Ecogreen under the name Rofetan OE; or

[0050] - mixtures thereof.

[0051] Preferably, polar oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention are selected from:

[0052] - liquid triglycerides of fatty acids including from 4 to 22 carbon atoms chosen from capryl ic / capric acids, corn oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oils and shea butter oil;

[0053] - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

[0054] - ethers of formula R1OR2 wherein R1 and R2 are alkyl chains of length having from

[0055] 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably dicaprylyl ether; and - mixtures thereof. Preferably, polar oil c) is selected from among triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] According to the invention, the content by weight of the apolar oil b) is higher than or equal to the content by weight of the polar oil c).

[0057] Preferably, the polar oil(s) c) is(are) present in a content between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 45% by weight, preferably between 20% and 43% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] The composition according to the invention is preferably introduced into an emulsion. The emulsion may be direct (oil-in-water) or invert (water-in-oil).

[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not solid, i.e. is not in the form of a stick. Preferably, it has a complex modulus G* at 32°C measured according to the protocol of the examples, between 200 and 2x105Pa, preferably between 300 and 2x105Pa. Preferably, it has a phase angle delta at 32°C measured according to the protocol of the examples of at least 15°, preferably between 15° and 30°

[0060] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as in particular fillers, preservatives, UV filters, dyes and / or active ingredients.

[0061] As a UV filter, mention may be made of organic or mineral UV filters, well known to those skilled in the art.

[0062] As dyes, mention may be made of the dyes selected from among water-soluble colorants, powdery dyes such as pigments, nacres and glitters well known to those skilled in the art.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of synthetic wax, such as ceresin. By “substantially free”, it should be understood that the composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1 % by weight relative to the total composition weight of synthetic wax, such as ceresin. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of synthetic wax, such as ceresin.

[0064] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. By “substantially free”, it should be understood that the composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1 % by weight relative to the total composition weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of silicone. By “silicone”, it should be understood any silicone compound, i.e. comprising an SiO unit.

[0065] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil. By “substantially free”, it should be understood that the composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total composition weight of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil.

[0066] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.

[0067] It also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to hydrate the skin.

[0068] Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.

[0069] In the examples, the temperature is room temperature (25°C) expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure(1 .013x105Pa), unless mentioned otherwise.

[0070] In the examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are given as a % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%w / w).

[0071] EXAMPLES

[0072] The following ingredients are used in the examples:

[0073] [Table 1]

[0074] Example 1 : Preparation of the compositions

[0075] Preparation protocol

[0076] All of the compositions of the examples are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table above, according to the following protocol:

[0077] The ingredients of the composition according to the invention (CX) or of the comparative composition (CCX) are introduced into a 250 ml double-jacketed stainless steel beaker with oil circulation. The total mass of the mixture introduced into the beaker is 100 g-

[0078] The mixture is mixed by a Rayneri mixer with a deflocculating spindle, under heating. The heating temperature is controlled by an oil bath.

[0079] A heating plate is also used to heat the bottom of the beaker.

[0080] The mixing conditions are:

[0081] The stirring speed of the deflocculating spindle: 200 rpm;

[0082] The temperature of the hot plate: 180°C; and

[0083] The temperature of the oil bath: 110°C.

[0084] Once the mixture is molten and homogenized, it is hot-poured into a 200 ml glass jar, followed by cooling to room temperature without stirring.

[0085] Example 2: Evaluation of the effect of the wax type

[0086] In order to evaluate the effect of the type of wax on the composition, the compositions C1 , C2, C3 according to the invention and the comparative composition CC1 were prepared according to the protocol of Example 1.

[0087] Each of the compositions C1 , C2 and C3 according to the invention contains 20% by weight of microcrystalline wax, whereas thez comparative composition CC1 contains 20% by weight of polyethylene wax.

[0088] The appearance of the compositions and their rheological characteristics are evaluated after preparation thereof.

[0089] Composition texture evaluation protocol:

[0090] The textures of the compositions of the invention and of the comparative compositions are evaluated using oscillatory rheological measurements. The rheometer used is the TA Instruments DHR2 model equipped with a plane-cone measuring geometry of diameter 40 mm and angle 2°, the geometry is made of stainless steel and the surface is sandblasted.

[0091] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0092] Step 1: conditioning of the sample between the cone and the plane for 1 minute at 32°C;

[0093] Step 2: oscillatory stress sweep from 0.01 Pa to 2,000 Pa at the frequency of 1 Hz and at the temperature of 32°C (measurement acquisition, 5 measurements per decade).

[0094] The results are as follows:

[0095] [Table 2]

[0096] It was observed that:

[0097] - The comparative composition CC1 with polyethylene wax has the appearance of a solid white paste, with a modulus G* about 500 times higher than the compositions according to the invention and a phase angle delta lower than 15°, resulting in an overly thick texture; and

[0098] - The compositions C1 , C2 and C3 according to the invention make it possible to obtain translucent gels with controlled rheological characteristics, which ensure a suitable texture for application.

[0099] Example 3: Evaluation of the effect of the oil The compositions C1 , C4 and C5 according to the invention and the comparative compositions CC2, CC3 and CC4, were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0100] The compositions C1 , C4 and C5 according to the invention comprise a branched alkane oil, and the content of branched alkane oil is higher than or equal to that of polar oil.

[0101] The comparative compositions CC2, CC3, and CC4 do not include branched alkane oil, but comprise a polar oil.

[0102] The appearance of the compositions, their rheological characteristics, as well as their occlusivity performance are evaluated after preparation thereof.

[0103] In vitro occlusivity evaluation protocol:

[0104] IWL (Insensible Water Loss) measurements are defined by the flow of water vapor through the skin surface. They characterize the barrier function of the stratum corneum and allow evaluating the influence of physical and chemical factors on the barrier integrity. The occlusive treatments have the effect of reducing IWL and hence of maintaining or even increasing skin hydration.

[0105] IWL measurements are carried out on isolated stratum corneum placed above a water container, under controlled temperature and humidity conditions (glove box T=30°C and RH=30%).

[0106] The surface of the stratum corneum is cleaned with isooctane and placed in the sample holder. The system is placed in the glove box for 10h to reach equilibrium. A first IWL measurement is made (tO). Afterwards, the stratum corneum is treated with 10 pl of product. A second IWL measurement is carried out 10h after the sample is at equilibrium again.

[0107] The measurements are repeated 6 times on 2 different stratum corneum batches and are expressed as a % variation of IWL:

[0108] [Math 1]

[0109] The median value is selected to compare the data together.

[0110] To evaluate the occlusivity performance of the prepared compositions, a petroleum jelly composition (petrolatum, White Protopet 1S Petrolatum (Sonneborn), 100% by weight) is selected as the reference composition, which has a 75% IWL variation according to the measurements. The results are as follows:

[0111] [Table 3] The results obtained here indicate that: in the absence of a branched alkane oil, comparative compositions CC2, CC3 and

[0112] CC4 form white pastes. Their textures are overly thick and / or rigid, as demonstrated by their rheological properties: very high G* and low 5;

[0113] - the compositions C1 , 04 and 05 according to the invention comprising at least one branched alkane oil whose content is higher than or equal to that of the polar oil, make it possible to obtain translucent gels with a good texture;

[0114] - the comparative composition 002 has an in vitro IWL value equal to 5%, which is much lower compared to that of the reference composition (petroleum jelly); and only the compositions according to the invention (in particular 01 and 04) exhibit good barrier function performances, with an in vitro IWL value comparable to that of the reference composition (petroleum jelly). Example 4: Evaluation of the effect of microcrystalline wax concentration

[0115] The compositions C1 and C6 to C8 according to the invention and the comparative compositions CC5 to CC7, were prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0116] The compositions C1 and C6 to C8 according to the invention have a weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes (or MCW) I (microcrystalline waxes + oils) between 0.05 and 0.3.

[0117] The comparative compositions CC5 to CC7 have a weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes I (microcrystalline waxes + oils) lower than 0.05 or higher than 0.3.

[0118] The results are as follows:

[0119] [Table 4]

[0120] In summary, the results demonstrate that: if the weight ratio of microcrystalline waxes I (microcrystalline waxes + oils) is lower than 0.05, as is the case of the comparative compositions CC5 and CC6, products with an overly liquid and unstable texture are obtained; if the microcrystalline waxes I (microcrystalline waxes + oils) weight ratio is higher than 0.3, as is the case of the comparative composition CC7, the product takes the form of a tacky hard white gel. The texture is overly thick and difficult to spread; only the compositions according to the invention, which have a microcrystalline waxes I (microcrystalline waxes + oils) weight ratio ranging from 0.05 to 0.3, make it possible to obtain products in the form of translucent gels with good textures for application; and

[0121] - the composition C1 according to the invention exhibits a better occlusivity performance compared to the comparative composition CC5 which does not comprise microcrystalline wax.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one wax consisting of a mixture of long-chain saturated alkanes and comprising at least one long-chain branched saturated alkane; b) at least one apolar oil selected from among branched alkanes liquid at room temperature; and c) optionally, at least one polar oil liquid at room temperature comprising at least one ester or ether or alcohol function, the content by weight of the apolar oil b) being higher than or equal to the content by weight of the polar oil c); wherein the ratio between the amount of wax a) and the total amount of wax a) and apolar oil(s) b) and possibly polar oil(s) c) is between 0.05 and 0.3.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the wax a) has a melting point higher than 45 °C and lower than or equal to 120 °C, in particular lower than or equal to 90 °C; the wax a) consists of a mixture of linear alkanes and branched alkanes, said linear and branched alkanes having a number of carbons ranging from 20 to 70.

3. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax a) is present in an amount ranging from 4% to 45%, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, or even more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the content by weight of the wax a) is strictly lower than the content by weight of the apolar oil b).

5. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio between the amount of wax a) and the total amount of wax a) and apolar oil(s) b) and possibly polar oil(s) c) is between 0.1 and 0.25.

6. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the apolar oil b) is selected from among branched alkanes comprising between 10 and 60 carbon atoms, preferably between 15 and 31 carbon atoms; preferably the apolar oil b) is selected from among squalane, hemisqualane, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the apolar oil b) is present in a content between 20% and 96% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90% by weight, preferably between 35% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar oil c) is selected from among:- liquid triglycerides of fatty acids including from 4 to 22 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or caprylic / capric acids, or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, shea butter oil;- synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; plant oils composed of esters, particularly jojoba oil; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;- ethers, such as those of formula R1OR2 wherein R1 and R2 are alkyl chains of length having from 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably dicaprylyl ether; and- mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar oil c) is selected from among triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar oil c) is present in a content between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 45% by weight, preferably between 20% and 43% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the apolar oils (b) and the sum of th apolar and polar oils (b+c) is higher than or equal to 0.

5.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is substantially free of synthetic wax such as ceresin, preferably completely free of synthetic wax such as ceresin; and / or is substantially free of silicone, preferably completely free of silicone; and / or is substantially free of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil, preferably completely free of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil.

13. A cosmetic method for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or skin appendages and / or keratin fibers, comprising the application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims on the skin and / or skin appendages and / or keratin fibers.

14. A cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12 to hydrate the skin.

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