Skin barrier composition
A composition of Vitamin B, saccharide isomerate, and a peptide at low concentrations addresses the limitations of existing skin care products by enhancing skin barrier function, reducing water loss, and improving skin appearance with a more appealing aesthetic.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/068686
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-07-05
- Filing Date
- 2025-07-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-08
AI Technical Summary
Existing skin care products that aim to improve skin barrier function require high concentrations of ingredients that provide an occlusive film, leading to short-term moisture retention but do not repair the skin barrier, are aesthetically unappealing, and may not be suitable for all skin types, particularly acne-prone skin.
A composition comprising Vitamin B or its derivative, saccharide isomerate, and a peptide, specifically benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide), at low concentrations (0.05-0.85% for saccharide isomerate and 0.0001-0.0004% for the peptide) to enhance skin barrier function, reduce transepidermal water loss, and improve skin appearance.
The composition effectively strengthens the skin barrier, reduces transepidermal water loss, and enhances skin radiance and appearance with a more appealing aesthetic, while being cost-effective and suitable for various skin types.
Smart Images

Figure EP2025068686_08012026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] SKIN BARRIER COMPOSITION
[0002] Field of the Invention
[0003] The invention relates to the field of skin care. More particularly, the invention relates to compositions, methods, and uses thereof for improving skin barrier function.
[0004] Background of the Invention
[0005] The skin forms a barrier between the body and the external environment to prevent the invasion of pathogens and the uncontrolled loss of water and solutes in the body. The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin and is the first line of defence against UV radiation and environmental factors.
[0006] A strong skin barrier is a common factor in individuals with a good skin condition and a healthy visual appearance of the skin. An impact on skin barrier function can lead to dryness, affect the epidermal renewal processes, lead to loss of skin radiance and luminosity as well as rougher skin.
[0007] Existing solutions for improving skin barrier function require high levels of ingredients that provide an occlusive film on the surface of the skin to lock in moisture. These products only provide an acute and short term reduction in the water loss that accompanies an impaired skin barrier. They do nothing to repair the skin barrier itself which will remain damaged. Typically, such acute remedies are greasy and oily and therefore aesthetically unappealing to consumers. They also require high concentrations of ingredients that increase cost for the developer and ultimately for the customer on product purchase. Additionally, existing products through their occlusive nature may not be suitable for some skin types, such as for example acne or blemish-prone skin types.
[0008] The present invention uses a surprisingly low concentration of a blend of components to improve the long-term barrier function of the skin whilst additionally having a positive aesthetic impact on skin. Summary of the Invention
[0009] The present invention therefore provides in a first aspect a use of a composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) saccharide isomerate; and (iii) a peptide, for improving skin barrier function wherein the amount of saccharide isomerate in the composition is from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight.
[0010] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic use of a composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight of saccharide isomerate; and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide, for improving skin barrier function.
[0011] According to a third aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier function, the composition comprising Vitamin B or a derivative thereof, saccharide isomerate, and a peptide wherein the amount of saccharide isomerate in the composition is from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight.
[0012] In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a method for improving skin barrier function, the method comprising topically administering the composition according to the present invention to the skin of a subject.
[0013] In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a method of reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from the skin’s surface, the method comprising topically administering the composition according to the present invention to the skin of a subject.
[0014] Detailed Description of the Invention
[0015] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising Vitamin B or a derivative thereof, saccharide isomerate, and a peptide, for improving skin barrier function wherein the amount of saccharide isomerate in the composition is from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight. A cosmetic composition is a product designed for use by a consumer and is preferably a skincare cosmetic composition, more preferably a facial skincare cosmetic composition.
[0016] The present inventors have surprisingly found that compositions comprising low concentrations of a peptide such as benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino- benzylamide) (BSFAB), Vitamin B or a derivative thereof and saccharide isomerate can provide barrier strengthening benefits, with the additional advantages of being less costly to produce and more aesthetically appealing to consumers. In particular, topical application of the composition of the present invention is useful for reducing trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL)) from the skin’s surface. Topical application of the composition of the present invention is also useful for improving the healthy visual appearance and / or radiance of the skin.
[0017] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof (e.g., a vitamin B3 compound, such as niacinamide); (ii) saccharide isomerate; and (iii) a peptide (e.g., BSFAB), for improving skin barrier function wherein the amount of saccharide isomerate in the composition is from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight.
[0018] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) a saccharide isomerate; and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide (e.g., BSFAB), for improving skin barrier function.
[0019] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight of saccharide isomerate; and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide (e.g., BSFAB), for improving skin barrier function.
[0020] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise (i) from 0.1 to 4 % by weight of Vitamin B or a derivative thereof (e.g., a vitamin B3 compound); (ii) from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight of saccharide isomerate; and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide (e.g., BSFAB), for improving skin barrier function. The composition according to the present invention may be used for application to the skin of a subject. The composition of the present invention may be used on any part of the skin, but preferably the composition is used on the face.
[0021] The composition according to the present invention may be used as a non-therapeutic (cosmetic) treatment to improve skin barrier function and / or the condition of the skin and / or reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from the skin’s surface.
[0022] The composition of the present invention may be used on skin for the purpose of any one of moisturizing skin (including hydrating skin), improving the radiance of the skin, improving skin suppleness, reducing skin tightness, improving the healthy visual appearance of the skin, nourishing skin and / or reducing dryness, or any combination thereof.
[0023] The present invention further relates to a use of the composition of the present invention for the topical application to the skin.
[0024] The invention also encompasses a use of a composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) saccharide isomerate; and (iii) a peptide (e.g., BSFAB), for improving skin barrier function.
[0025] The use of a composition for improving skin barrier function according to the present invention comprises from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight of saccharide isomerate, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0026] The use of a composition for improving skin barrier function according to the present invention, may comprise from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide (e.g., BSFAB), based on the total weight of the composition.
[0027] The use of a composition for improving skin barrier function according to the present invention, may comprise from 0.1 to 4% by weight of Vitamin B or a derivative thereof (e.g., a vitamin B3 compound), based on the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The compositions of the present invention may be employed for purely cosmetic purposes. So the present invention also provides a cosmetic use of the composition as described in the present invention. Thus, the invention also provides a cosmetic use of a composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof, (ii) saccharide isomerate and (iii) a peptide, for improving skin barrier function.
[0029] In the cosmetic use of a composition for improving skin barrier function according to the present invention, the composition may comprise (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof, (ii) saccharide isomerate and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide (e.g., BSFAB).
[0030] The cosmetic use of a composition for improving skin barrier function according to the present invention may comprise (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof, (ii) from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight of saccharide isomerate and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide. The amount of Vitamin B or a derivative thereof (e.g., a vitamin B3 compound) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 4% by weight.
[0031] The uses according to the present invention may improve skin barrier function when applied on a person’s skin.
[0032] The uses of a composition according to the present invention may reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) from the skin’s surface by the topical application of the composition of the present invention.
[0033] The uses according to the present invention may improve the condition of the skin and / or reduce dryness of the skin and / or improve the radiance of the skin and / or improve skin suppleness and / or reduce skin tightness and / or improve the healthy visual appearance of the skin.
[0034] The uses, compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise Vitamin B or a derivative thereof, saccharide isomerate and / or a peptide, as further defined herein.
[0035] Vitamin B or Vitamin B thereof
[0036] The composition of the present invention comprises vitamin B (e.g., vitamin B l to vitamin B 12) or a vitamin B derivative (e.g., a derivative of vitamin B l to B12, such as a vitamin B3). The composition of the present invention may comprise a vitamin B3 compound, such as niacinamide.
[0037] Vitamin B3 and niacin, are the common names for nicotinic acid. The physiologically active form of niacin is niacinamide. Niacin and niacinamide (nicotinamide or nicotinic acid amide) function in the body as a component of two coenzymes: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD / NAD+) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP).
[0038] The compositions used in the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a (natural or synthetic) vitamin B3 compound. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing. Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
[0039] Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters of C 1-C22, preferably C l- C 16, more preferably C 1-C6 alcohols. The alcohol may be straight-chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. Preferred esters are those which do not yield a visible flushing response after application to the skin. Alternatively, a nicotinic acid material which does produce a flushing response can be used, if used at a lower dose to reduce the flushing effect. Non-flushing esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate. Tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.
[0040] Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are derivatives of niacinamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogens. Non-limiting examples of derivatives of niacinamide useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., C 1-C 18). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid.
[0041] Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like. Other suitable vitamin B3 compounds are selected from the group consisting of 2- chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl- nicotinamide, n,n- diethylnicotinamide, n-(hydroxymethyl)-nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, l-(3 -pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, niaprazine and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).
[0043] The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise one or more vitamin B3 compounds. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.
[0044] Salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein. Non-limiting examples of salts of the vitamin B3 compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts (including mono-, di- and tri- C 1-C18 carboxylic acid salts, e.g., acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably monocarboxylic acid salts such as acetate).
[0045] The vitamin B3 compound may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources. The vitamin B3 compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure. The Vitamin B or vitamin B derivative (e.g. vitamin B3 compound, such as niacinamide) may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of at least 0.01%, at least 0.05%, at least 0.1%, at least 0.5%, at least 1%, at least 2%, at least 3%, at least 4%; and / or the vitamin B or vitamin B derivative (e.g., vitamin B3 compound such as niacinamide) may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of 4% or less, 3% or less, 2% or less, 1% or less, 0.5% or less, 0.1% or less, or 0.05% or less. Where more than one vitamin B / vitamin B derivative is present, the values apply to the total amount of vitamin B or vitamin B derivative.
[0046] In particular, the vitamin B or vitamin B derivative (e.g., vitamin B3 compound such as niacinamide) may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of from 0.1 to 4%, or from 0.1 to 3.5%, or from 0.1 to 3%, or from 0.1 to 2.5%, or from 0.1 to 2%, or form 0.5 to 4%, or from 0.5 to 3.5%, or from 0.5 to 3%, or from 0.5 to 2.5%, or from 1 to 4%, or from 1 to 3.5%, or from 1 to 3%, or from 1 to 2.5%, or form 1.5 to 4%, or from 1.5 to 3.5%, or from 1.5 to 3%, or from 1.5 to 2.5%, or from 1.5 to 2%.
[0047] Saccharide isomerate
[0048] The composition comprises saccharide isomerate. Saccharide isomerate consists mainly of glucose, fructose mannose and galactose.
[0049] Saccharide isomerate mimics NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) found in human skin and is derived from plant based glucose. Saccharide isomerate is commercially available under the trademark name PENTAVITIN® from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.
[0050] The saccharide isomerate may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of at least 0.05%, at least 0.1%, at least 0.2% or at least 0.3%; and / or the saccharide isomerate may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of 0.85% or less, or 0.8% or less, or 0.75% or less, 0.7% or less, 0.6% or less, 0.5% or less, or 0.4% or less.
[0051] The saccharide isomerate may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of from 0.05% to 0.85%, such as from 0.05% to 0.80%, from 0.05% to 0.75%, from 0.05% to 0.7%, or from 0.05% to 0.65%, or from 0.05% to 0.6%, or from 0.05% to 0.55%, or from 0.05% to 0.5%, or from 0.1% to 0.85%, from 0.1% to 0.80%, or from 0.1% to 0.75%, or from 0.1% to 0.7%, or from 0.1% to 0.65%, or from 0.1% to 0.6%, or from 0. 1% to 0.55%, or from 0. 1% to 0.5%, or from 0.2% to 0.85%, from 0.2% to 0.80%, or from 0.2% to 0.75%, or from 0.2% to 0.7%, or from 0.2% to 0.65%, or from 0.2% to 0.6%, or from 0.2% to 0.55%, or from 0.2% to 0.5%, or from 0.4% to 0.85%, from 0.4% to 0.80%, or from 0.4% to 0.75%, or from 0.4% to 0.7%, or from 0.4% to 0.65%, or from 0.4% to 0.6%, or from 0.4% to 0.55%, or from 0.4% to 0.5%.
[0052] Peptides
[0053] The composition of the present invention comprises a peptide. Peptides are defined as compounds comprising an uninterrupted sequence of amino acids. Preferred peptides are selected from the group consisting of dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Preferably the peptide is a protease inhibitor.
[0055] More preferably the peptide may comprise synthetic peptide that inhibits the enzymes plasmin and urokinase.
[0056] Yet more preferably the peptide is a dipeptide.
[0057] The peptide may comprise an amidino benzylamine derivative. The peptide may be selected from benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe- (4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB), benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-lys-(4-amidino-benzylamide), benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-Gly-4- amidino-benzylamide and benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-Ala-4- amidino-benzylamide.
[0058] The peptide may comprise or consist of benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino- benzylamide) (BSFAB). Benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB) is commercially available under trade name SYN-UP® from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.
[0059] The peptide (e.g., BSFAB) may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of at least 0.0001%, at least 0.00015%, at least 0.0002%, at least 0.00025%; and / or the peptide may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of 0.0004% or less, 0.00035% or less, 0.0003% or less, 0.00025% or less.
[0060] The peptide (e.g., BSFAB) may be present in the composition in an amount by weight of from 0.0001 to 0.0004% (e.g., from Ippm to 4ppm), such as from 0.00015 to 0.0004%, or from 0.0002 to 0.0004%, or from 0.00025 to 0.0004%, or from 0.0001 to 0.00035%, or from 0.00015 to 0.00035%, or from 0.0002 to 0.00035%, or from 0.00025 to 0.00035%, or from 0.0001 to 0.0003%, or from 0.00015 to 0.0003%, or from 0.0002 to 0.0003%, or from 0.00025 to 0.0003%, or from 0.0001 to 0.00025%, or from 0.00015 to 0.00025%, or from 0.0002 to 0.00025%.
[0061] Other components
[0062] The composition for improving skin barrier function and cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be aqueous or non-aqueous and comprise of a single-phase system or multiple phase system. The (cosmetic) composition may include but is not limited to liquids, gels, balms, oils or solids. Single or multiple phase compositions are envisaged. Multiple phase systems include but are not limited to microemulsions, emulsions, and products with discrete separate phases. Emulsions include water-in-oil, oil-in-water emulsions and multiple emulsions (water in oil in water or oil in water in oil for example). Products with discrete separate phases include bi or triphasic systems where the individual water or oil phases can be visibly seen.
[0063] Where the (cosmetic) composition is aqueous, it preferably comprises from 20% to 95% by weight water. In a preferred embodiment, aqueous compositions comprise from 40% to 90 % by weight water. In a preferred embodiment, aqueous compositions comprise from 60% to 85% by weight water. Where the composition is non-aqueous it preferably comprises 0% to up to 10% water, more particularly from 0.1 to 8%, most preferably from 0.5 to 5% water.
[0064] Where the cosmetic composition is an emulsion, it comprises an oil and a water phase. The oil phase of an emulsion can be provided by any suitable oily component. Suitable oils for the oil phase may comprise for example: a) hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin or mineral oils; b) waxes, such as beeswax or paraffin wax; c) natural oils, such as sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, shea butter or jojoba oil; d) silicone oils, such as dimethicone, silicone elastomer, cyclomethicone or cetylidimethicone; e) fatty acid esters and ethers, such as isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate and polypropylene glycol- 15 stearyl ether; f) fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol; or g) mixtures thereof, for example, the blend of waxes available commercially under the trade name Cutina (BASF).
[0065] The emulsion may comprise 0.1% to 55% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase. In one embodiment, the emulsion may comprise 3% to 25% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase. In an alternative embodiment, the emulsion may comprise 10% to 50% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase, more preferably from 25-50% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase.
[0066] The compositions of the invention may comprise an emulsifier. Suitable emulsifiers include all those suitable for the purpose and known by those skilled in the art for use in skin care products. Preferably these emulsifiers have an HLB value of or less than 14, more preferably from 2 to 14, and still more preferably from 4 to 14.
[0067] In some embodiments, the composition may further comprise one or more antioxidant agents selected from a) ascorbic acid its salts, esters, glucosides and glucosamines, particularly sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate and ethyl ascorbic acid b) vitamin E (tocopherol) and its esters, particularly tocopheryl acetate, as well as Dimethyl methoxy chromanol which is a synthetic analogue of gamma tocopherol, available from Lipotec S.A. polygon Industrial Camri Rai, under the tradename Lipochroman-6 c) herbal extracts (not including Annona, ginseng and Trifolium extracts), particularly gingko biloba, such as that available under the trade name "Gingko Biloba Leaf Powder" from Univar PLC, morus alba, such as that available under the trade name "Mulberry Concentrate" from Solabia, origanum vulgare, such as that available under the trade name "Pronalen Origanum HSC" from S Black Ltd, birch extract such as those available from Cosmetochem (U. K.) Ltd under the trade names "Super Herbasol Extract Birch" and "HP Herbasol Betula" and those available from Blagden Chemicals under the tradenames "Phytelene of Birch" and "Aqueous Spray Dried Birch", camellia sinensis, such as that available under the trade name "Herbal Extract Green Tea 75% Solids" from Nichimen Europe, rosmarinus officinalis, such as that available under the trade name "Pronalen Rosemary" from S. Black, Acerola cherry powder, such as that available as Acerola PE from Gee Lawson, Emblica extract sold under the tradename Emblica™ by Merck Speciality chemicals, and Grape Seed oil, such as that available from Chesham Chemicals Limited.
[0068] The composition may comprise one or more antioxidant agents selected from green tea extract (e.g. Camellia sinensis leaf extract), Quercus petraea fruit extract (such as that sold under the trade name of Phytessence French Oak™ from Croda) and ferulic acid (also known as hydroxy cinnamic acid).
[0069] The composition may further comprise one or more antioxidant agents selected from flavonoid species, including flavones, flavonols, flavanones, flavanols, anthrocyanidins and isoflavonoids; phenoic acid species; stilbenes; lignans or combinations thereof, which provides an antioxidant benefit. The antioxidant agent may also be a plant extract or derivative thereof. Plants provide a rich and cheap source of antioxidant agents and are therefore an efficient source of said agents. Similar actives can be also prepared synthetically and as such are analogues. The term “antioxidant agent” is also intended to cover said analogues. The plant extract may be selected from the group consisting of essential oils, extracts from leaves, extracts from stems, extracts from petals, extracts from seeds, extracts from roots, extracts from pollen, and combinations thereof.
[0070] The antioxidant agent(s) may be selected from the group consisting of dimethylmethoxy chromanol (such as that sold under the trade name of LIPOCHROM AN® Molecule from Lipotec), Myrtus communis leaf extract (such as that sold under the trade name of DEXOSINE BIO® from Silab), Camellia japonica extract (e.g., a Camellia japonica flower extract such as that sold under the trade name of RedSnow® from Clariant. The extract may be obtained from the leaves of Camellia japonica. The extract may be obtained from the roots of Camellia japonica. Camellia japonica flowers may be collected on Jeju island and may contain Protocatechuic acid (200ppm)), emblica extract (e.g. Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract (also known as Emblica officinalis (Gooseberry) fruit extract)), ginkgo extract (e.g. Ginkgo biloba leaf extract), Argania spinosa leaf extract (such as that sold under the trade name of Arganyl™ from BASF), Pinus pinaster bark extract (such as that sold under the trade name of Pycnogenol), Resveratrol (such as that sold under the trade name of REGU®-FADE), and combinations thereof.
[0071] The amounts of the antioxidant agents used in the cosmetic compositions are expressed as dry weights, as understood by a man skilled in the art. The total amount of antioxidant agents optionally present in the cosmetic compositions may range from 0.005% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5%, most preferably 0.05% to 1.0% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0072] The compositions of the invention may further comprise one or more ceramides. Ceramides are a family of waxy lipid molecules. A ceramide is composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid.
[0073] The composition comprises at least one ceramide. The at least one ceramide may comprise ceramide 1 (ceramide EOP), ceramide 2 (ceramide NG), ceramide 3 (ceramide NP) and / or ceramide 6 (ceramide AP). The composition preferably comprises ceramide 3 (ceramide NP), also known as N-oloeoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine. The composition preferably comprises ceramide 6 (ceramide AP).
[0074] The composition may comprise at least two ceramides, such as ceramide 3 and ceramide 6. The composition may comprise at least 3 ceramides, such as ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6.
[0075] The compositions of the invention may optionally comprise a skin conditioning agent. Said skin conditioning agents may preferably be selected from the group consisting of humectants, emollients, moisturisers, or mixtures thereof. Where present, they are preferably present at a level of from 0.01% to 20%, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, most preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0076] Preferred skin conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of guanidine, urea, glycolic acid and glycolate salts, salicylic acid, lactic acid and lactate salts, aloe vera, shea butter, polyhydroxy alcohols, such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, glycerol, hexanetriol, butanitriol, (di) propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sugars (e.g. fructose, glucose, xylose, honey, mannose, xylose), gluconodeltalactone, and starches and their derivatives, pyrrolidone, carboxylic acid, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide monoethanolamine, panthenol, allantoin and mixtures thereof. The composition may comprise a humectant that is a diol or a triol. The composition may comprise a diol selected from the group consisting of pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, di-propylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerine, propanediol, hexenediol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, glucitol, mannitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol. The composition may comprise a triol selected from the group consisting of hexanetriol, glycerine, ethoxylated glycerin, propoxylated glycerin and mixtures thereof.
[0077] The composition may comprise propylene glycol, also known as propanediol (e.g., 0.3 to 2 wt% propylene glycol); butylene glycol (e.g., 0.1 to 0.5 butylene glycol); glycerin (e.g. 3 to 10% glycerin); panthenol (e.g., 0.1 to 0.9 wt% panthenol); and / or caprylyl glycol (e.g. 0.1 to 0.9%);
[0078] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more vitamins, in addition to the Vitamin B / Vitamin B derivative. The compositions may comprise ascorbates, for example vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0079] In some embodiments the cosmetic compositions may comprise vitamin K, vitamin K derivatives, vitamin H, vitamin D, vitamin D derivatives and mixtures thereof. In an alternative embodiment of the present the cosmetic compositions comprise vitamin E, vitamin E derivatives such as tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, and provitamins thereof, such as panthenol and mixtures thereof.
[0080] In a further embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise retinoid compounds, including retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinol and derivatives thereof. In one embodiment the cosmetic compositions comprise retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl retinoate, retinyl proprionate, retinyl ascorbate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl retinoate, retinyl sunflowerseedate and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The vitamin compounds may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural (e.g. plant) sources. In one embodiment, when vitamin compounds are present in the cosmetic compositions of the instant invention, the cosmetic compositions comprise from about 0.0001% to 50%, more preferably from 0.001% to 10%, still more preferably from 0.01% to 8%, and still more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, by weight of the cosmetic composition, of the vitamin compound.
[0082] The compositions of the invention may optionally comprise a sunscreen component. The sunscreen may comprise organic or inorganic sun filters or a combination of the two. Suitable inorganic sun filters include those selected from the group consisting of microfine titanium dioxide, microfine zinc oxide, boron nitride and mixtures thereof. Suitable organic sunscreens include those selected from the group consisting of: a) p- aminobenzoic acids, their esters and derivatives (for example, 2ethylhexyl p- dimethylaminobenzoate), b) methoxycinnamate esters (for example, 2-ethylhexyl p- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate or a, p-di- (p- methoxycinnamoyl)-a'- (2ethylhexanoyl)-glycerin, c) benzophenones (for example oxybenzone), d) dibenzoylmethanes such as 4-(tert-butyl)-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane, e) 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its salts, f) alkyl-ss, ss-diphenylacrylates for example alkyl a-cyano-ss, ss-diphenylacrylates such as octocrylene, g) triazines such as 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2-ethyl-hexyl-l-oxi)-l, 3,5-triazine, h) camphor derivatives such as methylbenzylidene camphor and i) mixtures thereof. Other preferred sunscreen ingredients include those selected from the group consisting of homosalate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Diethylhexylbutamido triazone, Bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Methylene bis-benzotriazoyl tetramethylbutylphenol, Polysilicone-15 and mixtures thereof. A sunscreen agent is optionally present in an amount from 0.1 to 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0083] The compositions of the invention may also optionally comprise one or more of the following optional ingredients. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may comprise preservatives such as 2-bromo2-nitropropane-l,3-diol (bronopol, which is available commercially under the trade name Myacide RTM), benzyl alcohol, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, phenoxy ethanol, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, sodium methyl paraben, sodium dehydroacetate, polyhexamethylenebiguanide hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, chlorhexidine digluconate, isothiazolone and sodium propyl paraben, suitably in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0084] The compositions of the invention may comprise thickeners, viscosity modifying agents and / or gelling agents, such as acrylic acid polymers e.g., available commercially under the trade name Carbopol, Ultrez or Novethix (Lubrizol) or Sepigel, Sepiplus and Simulgel (Seppic). Modified celluloses may also be added, for example hydroxyethylcellulose available commercially under the trade name Natrosol (Hercules) or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, amine oxides, block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide (for example, those available from BASF Wyandotte under the trade name "Pluronic"RTM), PVM, MA, or a decadiene crosspolymer (available under the trade name Stabilez 60), ethoxylated fatty alcohols, salt (magnesium chloride, sodium chloride), Aristoflex AVC (Clariant), phthalic acid amide, xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohols, fatty alcohols and alkyl galactomannans available under the trade name N-Hance from Hercules, suitably in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0085] Sequestering agents may be added to the cosmetic compositions, such as ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid and salts thereof, suitably in an amount of from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0086] The compositions may also include waxes such as cocoa butter or shea butter suitably in an amount of from 1% to 99% (e.g., 3 to 10%) by weight of the cosmetic composition
[0087] The cosmetic compositions may also comprise suitable, cosmetically acceptable diluents, carriers and / or propellants such as dimethyl ether.
[0088] The compositions may also include pearlising agents such as stearic monoethanolamide and / or mica, suitably in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0089] The compositions may include perfumes. In some embodiments the perfumes are present in an amount of from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the cosmetic compositions, as may water soluble dyes such as tartrazine, suitably in an amount of from a trace amount (such as 1 x 10-5 %) to 0.1 % by weight of the cosmetic composition. The compositions may also include pH adjusting agents such as sodium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine, suitably in an amount of from 0.01 % to 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic compositions may be buffered by means well known in the art, for example by use of buffer systems comprising succinic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and acceptable salts thereof, phosphoric acid, mono-or disodium phosphate and sodium carbonate. Suitably, the cosmetic composition may have a pH between 3 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, more preferably from 4.5 to 6.
[0090] Methods and processes
[0091] The methods of the present invention may comprise applying on a person’s skin the compositions described herein.
[0092] The present invention also relates to a method comprising applying the compositions according to the present invention to the skin of a subject.
[0093] The invention further concerns a cosmetic method for improving the skin barrier function, the method comprising topically administering the compositions according to the present invention to the skin of a subject.
[0094] The invention further relates to a method of reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) from the skin’s surface, the method comprising the topical application of the composition of the present invention to the skin of a subject.
[0095] The invention further relates to a method of improving the radiance of the skin and / or improving the healthy visual appearance of the skin, the method comprising the topical application of the composition according to the present invention to the skin of a subject.
[0096] Definitions
[0097] Unless otherwise indicated, a reference to the composition of the invention is a reference to the compositions of all aspects and embodiments of the invention. All percentages provided herein are percentages by weight of the composition unless otherwise specified.
[0098] Description of the Drawings
[0099] A number of embodiments of the invention will now be further described, by means of example only, with reference to the figures, in which:
[0100] Figure 1 shows the median difference in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) across 29 measured sites on the face after 28 days compared to baseline in g / m2 / hr (*p<0.05 Kruskal-Wallis test with Dunn posthoc analysis and adjusted p-values)
[0101] Figure 2 shows the results of a self-assessment questionnaire specifically the % of respondents who “agreed” or “strongly agreed” that their skin was more healthy after 28 days of product usage (* p<0.05 by Mann-Whitney U test.)
[0102] Figure 3 shows the results of a self-assessment questionnaire specifically the % of respondents who “agreed” or “strongly agreed” that their skin was more radiant after 28 days of product usage (* p<0.05 by Mann-Whitney U test.)
[0103] Figure 4 shows the mean Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) concentration of each individual NMF species at a baseline and following four weeks of twice daily usage of a Placebo composition (C).
[0104] Figure 5 shows the mean NMF concentration of each individual NMF species at a baseline and following four weeks of twice daily usage of a Low Level composition (A).
[0105] Examples
[0106] The present invention is further described by the following examples. Study Methodology
[0107] Summary:
[0108] Test Formulations:
[0109] Low Level composition (A) and High Level composition (B) were prepared comprising 0.00025wt.% benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB) and 0.0005wt.% BSFAB respectively. The peptide BSFAB may be provided in the SYN-
[0110] UP® composition, which comprises glycerin, 0.1 wt.% BSFAB, water, citric acid and sodium hydroxide.
[0111] Low Level composition (A) and High Level composition (B) were prepared comprising 0.5 wt.% saccharide isomerate and 1 wt.% saccharide isomerate respectively.
[0112] Saccharide isomerate may be provided in the PENTA VITIN® composition, which comprises citric acid, approximately 50 wt.% saccharide isomerate, water and sodium citrate .
[0113] Testing:
[0114] 1. Transepidermcil water loss (TEWL):
[0115] Transepidermal water loss was determined at each time point on the face, by means of the Vapometer® (Delfin Technologies). VapoMeter® is a humidity sensor mounted in a measurement chamber. The chamber is closed by the skin or other measurement surface during the measurement period and is unaffected by ambient airflows. The sensor monitors the increase of relative humidity (RH) inside the chamber during the measurement phase and the evaporation rate value (g / m2 / h) is automatically calculated from the RH increase.
[0116] On left half-face, moisturisation measurements were performed on 29 sites; 5 repetitions were collected there at each time point. Data were analysed by calculation of medians and by performing a Kruskal-Wallis test with Dunn posthoc tests.
[0117] Self-assessment questionnaire
[0118] A questionnaire was administered after 28 days of product usage to evaluate each test product.
[0119] Volunteers answered the questionnaires by picking among 4 agreement possibilities: totally agree, agree, disagree or totally disagree. The analysis was made by subdividing the answers in two groups: either agree or disagree. The average answer results agree versus disagree were collected and analysed by converting categorical to continuous data and then a Mann-Whitney U test applied for statistical significance
[0120] Results and discussion:
[0121] We discovered the surprising effect that the Low level composition (A) (i.e. 0.5% saccharide isomerate, 3% niacinamide and 0.00025% BSFAB) was more effective at improving barrier function (reducing TEWL) than the High Level composition (B) (i.e. 1% saccharide isomerate, 5% niacinamide and 0.0005% BSFAB) after 28 days (T2) of twice daily use.
[0122] As it can be seen in Figure 1, the Low Level composition (A) according to the present invention, but not High Level composition (B), induced a significant reduction in TEWL and hence improved the barrier function compared with a Placebo formulation. (For Placebo composition (C) vs. Low level composition (A) p = 0.02; Placebo composition (C) vs. High level composition (B) p = 0.079.
[0123] While TEWL is an industry accepted instrumental measure for barrier integrity and health, it is not consumer relevant. A strong, intact skin barrier that functions well reduces the dryness of the skin, making it look and feel smoother and contributes to reduced redness by keeping out agents that cause inflammation, helping the skin to look and feel healthy. An optimal skin barrier is also a major component of skin radiance. To deduce the effectiveness of the test formulations against the consumer relevant endpoints of skin health and skin radiance a self-assessment questionnaire was administered.
[0124] Figure 2 shows that surprisingly, significantly more of those volunteers using Low Level composition (A), but not the High Level composition (B) ‘agreed’ or ‘strongly agreed’ that after using the product for 28 days their skin was healthier looking compared with those using a Placebo formulation.
[0125] As it can be seen in Figure 3, surprisingly more of those volunteers using the Low Level composition (A), but not the High Level composition (B) ‘agreed’ or ‘strongly agreed’ that after using the product for 28 days their skin looked more radiant compared with those using a Placebo composition (C).
[0126] 2. Natural moisturizing factors
[0127] Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), composed of 23 different components, primarily free amino acids and derivatives like pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and urocanic acid (UCA), are essential for retaining water in the stratum corneum and maintaining healthy skin. An investigation was carried out to determine the impact of the Low Level composition (A) on the level of each of the skin Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) components in the stratum corneum.
[0128] Methodology Used
[0129] The volunteers tested in relation to the Low Level composition (A) and the Placebo composition (C) for the TEWL study were also party to the NMF study.
[0130] Skin samples were collected by applying D-Squame DI 00 Stripping Disc tapes from the cheek using a pressure device to ensure consistent pressure application to the tape and peeling them off with gloved hands. Four consecutive tapes were applied to and then removed from the cheek of volunteers at baseline and following four weeks of twice daily usage of the Low Level composition (A) (treatment) or of the Placebo composition (C). The tapes were curled inward by handling the non-adhesive sides and stored in 1.5ml Eppendorf tubes at -80°C until processing.
[0131] For extraction, tapes were submerged in 1 ml of a buffer (water + 0.1% formic acid + internal standards) with heavy-labeled internal standards (e.g., 13C6-L-Arginine) at 1 pg / ml. The samples underwent 15 minutes of water bath sonication at 4°C, followed by brief vortex and centrifugation at 8000 rpm for 2 minutes. The supernatant was then collected, divided into aliquots, and either dried using a Speedvac concentrator or directly used for microBCA assay used to determine the total protein concentration within each sample.
[0132] Samples were transferred into Liquid Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (LCMS) vials, injected in a randomized order and analyzed in technical duplicates. All samples were analyzed on a VanquishTM Duo UHPLC coupled to TSQ QuantisTM Triple Quadrupole Mass Spectrometer, using Waters Acquity T3 column at a dimension of 1.7 pm, 2.1 mm x 100 mm.
[0133] NMF species were identified and quantified from spectral traces. Concentrations obtained for each species were normalised against the total protein concentration in each of the samples. Multivariate analysis (Principle Component Analysis) of NMF concentrations was performed using SIMCA Software to explore the underlying patterns in the dataset and assess the differences between the Placebo and treatment groups. Multivariate analysis highlighted several outliers that lied outside the 95% confidence interval for Hotelling’s T2 and these were removed from the dataset.
[0134] Results and Discussion
[0135] The mean concentration of each NMF species at baseline was plotted and connected to the mean concentration of each NMF species following four weeks of twice daily use of either the Low Level cosmetic composition (A) (treatment) or the Placebo composition (C).
[0136] Figure X: Mean NMF concentration of each individual NMF species at baseline and following four weeks of twice daily usage of either the Placebo composition (C) or the Low Level composition (A). Mean NMF levels were no different after 4 weeks of application of a Placebo composition (C). Mean NMF levels were higher following 4 weeks of application of the Low Level composition (A). ***p<0.001 in a two-way ANOVA; NS = no significant difference
[0137] There was no difference in NMF concentration following the use of the Placebo composition (C) for four weeks. In contrast, the overall concentration of NMF was higher after four weeks of use of the Low Level composition (A) (treatment) compared to the baseline. Some species increase more than others and those increasing the most included arginine, aspartic acid and serine.
[0138] The statistically significant increase in NMF species, most especially evident for arginine, aspartic acid and serine, suggests a mechanism by which the treatment enhances skin hydration and barrier function.
[0139] Representative formulations
[0140] Example 1 - Water in oil emulsion (Serum)
[0141] Method of manufacture
[0142] 1. In the main vessel add dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, PEG / PPG- 18 / 18 dimethicone & polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate and cetyl
[0143] PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone to make the oil phase.
[0144] 2. Weigh out water, magnesium sulphate, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, niacinamide, saccaride isomerate and amidinobenzyl benzylsulfonyl D-seryl homophenylalaninamide acetate, glycerin, water, citric acid and sodium hydroxide stir until solids are dissolved to make the water phase.
[0145] 3. Add the water phase to the oil phase slowly with constant stirring at high speed (creating a vortex). Continue stirring for 5 minutes. 4. Homogenise the product for 5 minutes at 3500 rpm using a Silverson mixer or equivalent.
[0146] Example 2 - Oil in water emulsion (Night Cream)
[0147] Method of manufacture
[0148] 1. To water add glycerin, saccharide isomerate and dissolve tetrasodium EDTA. 2. Using homogenisation sprinkle in xanthan gum and continue to homogenise for
[0149] 5 minutes or until hydrated. 3. Heat water phase to 70-75°C.
[0150] 4. In a separate vessel weigh out oil phase and heat to 70-75°C. (Dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate) When at temperature stir in the sodium polyacrylate. 5. With both phases at 70-75°C add the oil phase to the water phase and homogenise for 2 minutes.
[0151] 6. Add dimethicone crosspolymer & dimethicone and homogenise for 2 minutes.
[0152] 7. Cool to room temperature.
[0153] 8. Stir in phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, amidinobenzyl benzylsulfonyl D-seryl homophenylalaninamide acetate, glycerin, water, citric acid and sodium hydroxide.
[0154] 9. Dissolve niacinamide in a small amount of water and stir into the bulk.
[0155] 10. Make to weight with water and stir smooth. Example 3 - Oil in water emulsion containing sunscreens (SPF Day Cream)
[0156] Method of manufacture
[0157] 1. To water add glycerine, Saccharide isomerate and dissolve tetrasodium EDTA.
[0158] 2. Using homogenisation sprinkle in carbomer and continue to homogenise for 5 minutes or until hydrated.
[0159] 3. Heat water phase to 70-75°C.
[0160] 4. In a separate vessel weigh out oil phase and heat to 70-75°C. (Dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, Cl 2- 15 alkyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, PEG-20 stearate)
[0161] 5. With both phases at 70-75°C add the oil phase to the water phase and homogenise for 2 minutes.
[0162] 6. Add Potassium hydroxide and homogenise for 2 minutes.
[0163] 7. Cool to room temperature.
[0164] 8. Stir in phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, amidinobenzyl benzylsulfonyl D-seryl homophenylalaninamide acetate, glycerin, water, citric acid and sodium hydroxide.
[0165] 9. Dissolve niacinamide in a small amount of water and stir into the bulk.
[0166] 10. Make to weight with water and stir smooth.
[0167] Example 4 - Gel
[0168] Method of manufacture
[0169] 1. To water add glycerine, saccharide isomerate and propanediol and dissolve tetrasodium EDTA.
[0170] 2. Using homogenisation sprinkle in acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and continue to homogenise for 5 minutes or until hydrated.
[0171] 3. Stir in potassium hydroxide to form gel.
[0172] 4. Stir in phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, amidinobenzyl benzylsulfonyl D-seryl homophenylalaninamide acetate, glycerin, water, citric acid and sodium hydroxide.
[0173] 5. Dissolve niacinamide in a small amount of water and stir into the bulk.
[0174] 6. Make to weight with water and stir smooth.
Claims
Claims1. Use of a composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) saccharide isomerate; and (iii) a peptide, for improving skin barrier function wherein the amount of saccharide isomerate in the composition is from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight.
2. Use of a composition according to claim 1 wherein the peptide is a protease inhibitor3. Use of a composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the peptide is a plasmin and urokinase inhibitor.
4. Use of a composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the amount of peptide present in the composition is from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight.
5. Cosmetic use of a composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight of saccharide isomerate; and (iii) from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight of a peptide, for improving skin barrier function.
6. Cosmetic use of a composition as claimed in claim 5 wherein the peptide is a protease inhibitor.
7. Cosmetic use of a composition as claimed in claim 5 or claim 6 wherein the peptide is a plasmin and urokinase inhibitor.
8. The use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the Vitamin B or a derivative thereof is a vitamin B3 compound, wherein optionally the Vitamin B or a derivative comprises niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate or a combination thereof.
9. The use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of Vitamin B or a derivative thereof in the composition is from 0.1 to 4% by weight.
10. The use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the improved skin barrier function is determined by measuring transepidermal water loss from the skin.1 1. The use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the peptide comprises benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe- (4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB), benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-lys-(4-amidino-benzylamide), benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser- Gly-4-amidino-benzylamide, benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-Ala-4- amidino-benzylamide or acombination thereof.
12. The use of a composition according to claim 1 1, wherein the peptide is benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe- (4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB).
13. The use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, for the topical cosmetic application to the skin of a subject.
14. The use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 as a non- therapeutic cosmetic treatment for improving the skin barrier function or for reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from the skin’s surface.
15. A cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier function, the composition comprising (i) Vitamin B or a derivative thereof; (ii) saccharide isomerate; and (iii) a peptide wherein the amount of saccharide isomerate in the composition is from 0.05 to 0.85% by weight.
16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the amount of peptide present in the composition is from 0.0001 to 0.0004% by weight.
17. The composition according to claim 13 or claim 14, wherein any one or more of the following applies: a) the amount of Vitamin B or a derivative thereof in the composition is from 0.1 to 4% by weight; b) the Vitamin B or a derivative thereof is a vitamin B3 compound; c) the Vitamin B or a derivative thereof comprises niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate and a combination thereof;d) the Vitamin B or a derivative thereof is niacinamide; e) the peptide is a protease inhibitor; f) the peptide is a plasmin and urokinase inhibitor; e) the peptide comprises benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe- (4-amidino- benzylamide) (BSFAB), benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-lys-(4-amidino-benzylamide), benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-Gly-4-amidino-benzylamide, benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-Ala-4- amidino-benzylamide and a combination thereof; and f) the peptide is benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe- (4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB).
18. A method for improving skin barrier function, the method comprising topically administering the composition according to any one of claims 15 to 17, to the skin of a subject.
19. A method of reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from the skin’s surface, the method comprising topically administering the composition according to any one of claims 15 to 18 to the skin of a subject.
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