Cosmetic composition comprising fatty amines, quaternary ammonium diesters, starch phosphates and fatty esters; and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, comprising the combination of two different cationic surfactants, chosen from fatty amines and quaternary ammonium diesters, with starch phosphates and fatty esters, preferably solid fatty esters. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, notably cleansing and / or conditioning, of keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising fatty amines, quaternary ammonium diesters, starch phosphates and fatty esters; and cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising the combination of at least two different cationic surfactants, starch phosphate and a particular fatty ester. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair may generally be damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing. Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0003] Thus, in order to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to make use of hair care compositions intended in particular to condition the hair by giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.

[0004] It is also known practice to use compositions of conditioner type, comprising cationic surfactants, solid and liquid fatty substances, and starch phosphates.

[0005] However, these compositions can be further improved, notably as regards the cosmetic properties imparted to the hair; in particular, compositions are sought which provide the hair with a high cosmetic level, notably a smooth feel, good suppleness and improved coating, and also a notable reinforcement of the fibre, in particular advantageous in the case of damaged hair.

[0006] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges. It is thus proving essential to provide more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to tackle these environmental issues. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a good carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] There is thus a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, notably hair compositions, which are capable of giving hair, notably damaged hair, improved cosmetic properties, in particular leading to an improvement in the perceived performance in terms of fibre repair / nutrition.

[0008] The aim of the present invention is to propose a composition and a process for treating keratin materials which provide a high level of cosmetic performance, especially for damaged hair.

[0009] This aim is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is therefore notably a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising:

[0010] - one or more fatty amines,

[0011] - one or more quaternary ammonium diesters,

[0012] - one or more starch phosphates, and

[0013] - one or more, preferably solid, esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol,

[0014] in which:

[0015] the weight ratio (R’) between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of fatty amines is greater than or equal to 1; and / or

[0016] the weight ratio (R’’) between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters is greater than or equal to 1.

[0017] It is noted that the composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to endow the hair, notably damaged hair, with advantageous cosmetic properties, such as suppleness, softness, visual smoothness and smoothness to the touch, and ease of disentangling, especially on the most damaged hair.

[0018] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide a very good level of suppleness to the keratin fibres: the hair is more supple, less stiff; the head of hair has more movement and bounce, and appears more natural. After application of the composition, the hair instantaneously becomes supple and fluid; it appears to be further transformed, treated and nourished.

[0019] Also noted are a smooth feel, and also a homogeneity of the coating and of the texture of the keratin fibres, from the root to the end, which is reflected in particular by a more uniform feel. The hair appears to be more even and has a particularly uniform coating, an absence of roughness to the touch; the irregularities in the damaged scales are no longer perceptible to the touch; the hair thus in fact appears to be repaired and strengthened.

[0020] In addition, the composition has good working qualities, in particular ease of distribution from the root to the ends.

[0021] In the present application, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0022] - the term "keratin materials" denotes keratin fibres (in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails) and also the skin of the body and face, including the scalp;

[0023] - the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and can be replaced therewith; and

[0024] - the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "(of) between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", these expressions being interchangeable.Fatty amines

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines.

[0026] The term “fatty amine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30and preferably C8-C30hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated. Preferably, they are not silicone-based (they do not contain any Si-O units).

[0027] Advantageously, the fatty amines are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0029] An “amidoamine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0030] A “fatty amidoamine” is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain.

[0031] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines which are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0032] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may “quaternize” in situ).

[0033] Among the fatty amidoamines which are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula: RCONHR’’N(R’)2in which:

[0034] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0035] - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0036] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0037] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; preferentially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0039] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty amine(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty amidoamine(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Better still, the composition according to the invention may comprise the amidoamine(s) of formula: RCONHR’’N(R’)2 as defined above in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty amine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Even better still, the composition according to the invention may comprise stearamidopropyl dimethylamine in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Quaternary ammonium diester

[0044] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters corresponding to the formula (A):

[0046] in which:

[0047] - R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40hydrocarbon group,

[0048] - R3and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C4alkyl groups, C1-C4hydroxyalkyl groups, and C1-C4dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0049] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C6divalent alkyl group, and

[0050] - X-represents an anion.

[0051] Preferably, R1and R2are linear.

[0052] Preferably, R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a preferably linear C7-C29, better still C9-C21, even better still C11-C19hydrocarbon group.

[0053] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a divalent C1-C4, better still C1-C2, even better still C2alkyl group, in particular an ethyl (-CH2-CH2-) group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.

[0054] Preferably, R3represents a C1-C4, better still C1-C2, alkyl group, even better still a methyl group.

[0055] Preferably, R4is chosen from C1-C4, better still C1-C2, alkyl groups, even better still a methyl group; or C1-C4, better still C2-C3, hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the -CH2CH2OH group.

[0056] The anion X-preferably represents a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide; a (C1-C4)alkylsulfate; a (C1-C4)alkylsulfonate; a (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonate; a phosphate; a nitrate; a tosylate; an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function.

[0057] Preferentially, the anion X-represents a halide or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfate. Even better still, the anion X-represents a chloride or a methosulfate group.

[0058] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0059] - R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a preferably linear, C7-C29, better still C9-C21, even better still C11-C19hydrocarbon group;

[0060] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a divalent C1-C4, better still C1-C2, even better still C2alkyl group; preferably A and A’ being identical;

[0061] - R3represents a C1-C4, better still C1-C2alkyl group, even better still a methyl group;

[0062] - R4represents a C1-C4, better still C1-C2 alkyl group, even better still a methyl group; or a C1-C4, better still C2-C3hydroxyalkyl group, even better still the -CH2CH2OH group;

[0063] - X-represents a halide or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfate.

[0064] Preferentially, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0065] - R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21, better still C11-C19 hydrocarbon group;

[0066] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2divalent alkyl group; preferably A and A’ being identical; and

[0067] - R3and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2alkyl groups and C2-C3hydroxyalkyl groups,

[0068] - X-represents a halide or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfate.

[0069] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) may be chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, distearoylethyl dimonium, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium and dioleoylethyl dimonium, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the salts may be halides, in particular chloride, or methosulfates.

[0070] Mention may more particularly be made, alone or as a mixture, of dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate; better still of dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better still of dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the quaternary ammonium diester(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) as defined above, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the quaternary ammonium diester(s) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of cationic surfactants, comprising the fatty amines above, the quaternary ammonium diesters above and any additional cationic surfactants, ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight, notably from 0.4% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Starch phosphate

[0076] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more starch phosphates.

[0077] The starches may originate from any plant source of starch, notably cereals and tubers; more particularly, they may be starches from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca.

[0078] The starches may be chemically or physically modified, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0079] More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the following manner:

[0080] - pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);

[0081] - oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);

[0082] - crosslinking with functional agents that are able to react with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);

[0083] - esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, notably C1to C6acyl (acetyl), C1to C6hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic.

[0084] The starch phosphates according to the invention can in particular be obtained by crosslinking starch with phosphorus compounds. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

[0085] The starch phosphates according to the invention can thus be chosen from monostarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)-O-St) or tristarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(O-St)2); with St meaning starch and X notably denoting H or the associated salt (alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt, ammonia salt, amine salt such as salts of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, and ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline).

[0086] Mention may notably be made of distarch phosphates such as the products provided under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0087] As starch phosphate which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of starch phosphates containing hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl groups, in particular starch phosphates containing hydroxypropyl groups and starch phosphates containing hydroxyethyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably, the starch phosphates may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from distarch phosphates, in particular compounds with the INCI name: DISTARCH PHOSPHATE; and starch phosphates containing hydroxypropyl groups, in particular compounds with the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE.

[0089] Even better still, the starch phosphates may be chosen from distarch phosphates, in particular compounds with the INCI name: DISTARCH PHOSPHATE.

[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the starch phosphate(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the starch phosphate(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from distarch phosphates and starch phosphates containing hydroxypropyl groups, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the starch phosphate(s) chosen from distarch phosphates, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol

[0093] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol; preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol. This compound will subsequently be referred to as a fatty ester or solid fatty ester.

[0094] The term “fatty” is understood to mean that the acid, or alcohol, comprises in total at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0095] The term "solid" is understood to mean that the compound has a melting point of strictly greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

[0096] The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one ester (or fatty ester) derived from an alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0097] Preferably, the alcohol from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is a saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 28 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0098] Preferably, the carboxylic acid from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is saturated, linear or branched, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably saturated monocarboxylic acids.

[0099] Preferably, the fatty esters according to the invention are chosen from esters of a saturated carboxylic acid, preferably monocarboxylic acid, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and of a saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0100] Better still, the fatty esters according to the invention are chosen preferably from solid esters, of a saturated carboxylic acid, preferably monocarboxylic acid, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and of a saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0101] Among the fatty esters which can be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0102] - C8-C32, in particular C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl palmitates such as octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate;

[0103] - C8-C32, in particular C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate;

[0104] - C8-C32, in particular C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl stearates such as octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate.

[0105] Particularly preferably, the composition comprises one or more fatty esters chosen from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate; myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof. Mention may very particularly be made of the product having the INCI name: CETYL ESTERS.

[0106] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises said solid fatty ester(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty ester(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from C8-C32alkyl palmitates, C8-C32alkyl myristates, C8-C32alkyl stearates, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty ester(s) chosen from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Ratio

[0110] The composition according to the invention is characterized by the fact that it satisfies at least one of the following conditions; preferably it satisfies both (cumulative) conditions.

[0111] According to one condition, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines and one or more esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in contents such that the weight ratio (R’) between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of fatty amines is greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, this weight ratio R’ may be between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being included).

[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines and one or more solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in contents such that the weight ratio between firstly the total content of solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of fatty amines is greater than or equal to 1; preferably, between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being included).

[0113] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamines and one or more solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in contents such that the weight ratio between firstly the total content of solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of fatty amidoamines is greater than or equal to 1; preferably, between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being included).

[0114] According to another condition, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters and one or more esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in contents such that the weight ratio (R’’) between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters is greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, this weight ratio R’’ may be between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being included).

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters and one or more solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in contents such that the weight ratio between firstly the total content of solid esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters is greater than or equal to 1; preferably, between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being included).Additional fatty substances

[0116] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional fatty substances, chosen in particular from liquid fatty substances and solid fatty substances other than the fatty esters and cationic surfactants described above, and mixtures thereof. This or these fatty substance(s) are not silicone-based (they do not contain any Si-O bonds).

[0117] The liquid fatty substances may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, liquid fatty esters, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] The liquid hydrocarbons may be C6-C18liquid hydrocarbons and be linear, branched or optionally cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16, notably C10-C14, alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] The non-(poly)oxyalkylenated liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The liquid fatty esters are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated. They are advantageously esters of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example by one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups (OH); and of a C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted; at least one of the alcohol or the acid preferably being branched.

[0123] Among the liquid fatty esters that can be used, mention may be made in particular of the esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26monoacids or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

[0124] Mention may more particularly be made, alone or as a mixture, of ethyl or isopropyl palmitates; isopropyl or ethyl myristates; isoamyl laurate; isobutyl stearate; isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate and oleyl lactate.

[0125] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin.

[0126] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional liquid fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] The additional solid fatty substances, other than the fatty esters described above, may advantageously be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0129] The term "fatty acids" is understood to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.

[0130] The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0132] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0133] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0134] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); or myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0135] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0136] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof. Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof. Mention may also be made of C2to C60microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene. Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8to C32fatty chains. Among these oils, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Use may also be made, as wax, of a C20to C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0137] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification. Mention may be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0138] Preferably, the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

[0139] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional solid fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional solid fatty substance(s) chosen from solid fatty alcohols in a total amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional liquid fatty substance, in particular chosen from triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, and at least one additional solid fatty substance, in particular chosen from solid fatty alcohols.Silicone

[0142] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more silicones, which may be chosen in particular from unmodified silicones and aminosilicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] The silicones that may be used may be volatile or non-volatile; they may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention and may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0144] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from:

[0145] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

[0146] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0147] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0148] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0149] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

[0150] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, or else (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols;

[0151] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4aminoalkyl groups;

[0152] - thiol groups;

[0153] - alkoxylated groups,

[0154] - hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

[0155] - acyloxyalkyl groups;

[0156] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, of the alkylcarboxylic type, or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type;

[0157] - hydroxyacylamino groups.

[0158] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may principally be made of trimethylsilyl-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes and dimethylsilanol-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes known under the INCI name of dimethiconol.

[0159] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10-5to 5×10-2 m² / s at 25°C.

[0160] The silicones that may be used may be aminosilicones. The term “aminosilicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0161] The weight-average molecular masses of these aminosilicones can be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is by refractometry and UV spectrometry.

[0162] Preferably, the aminosilicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

[0163] a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

[0164] in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately;

[0165] b) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):

[0166] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'ain which:

[0167] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, C1-C8alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8alkoxy, for example methoxy;

[0168] - a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,

[0169] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0170] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0171] - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups: -N(R'')2; -N+(R'')3A-; -NR''-Q-N(R'')2and -NR''-Q-N+(R'')3A-, in which R'', which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A-represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0172] Preferably, the aminosilicones of formula (B) are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to formulae (C) to (G) below:

[0173] (i) the "trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (C):

[0174] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.

[0175] (ii) the silicones of formula (D) below:

[0176] in which:

[0177] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0178] - R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1to R3denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0179] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0180] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0181] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

[0182] (iii) the silicones of formula (E) below:

[0183] in which:

[0184] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0185] - R1and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1or R2denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0186] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0187] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0188] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.

[0189] (iv) the silicones of formula (F) below:

[0190] in which:

[0191] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;

[0192] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0193] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

[0194] (v) the silicones of formula (G) below:

[0195] in which:

[0196] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0197] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0198] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.

[0199] c) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):

[0200] in which:

[0201] - R5represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl or C2-C18alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0202] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0203] - Q-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0204] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0205] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

[0206] d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):

[0207] in which:

[0208] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0209] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0210] - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;

[0211] - X-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0212] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0213] e) the aminosilicones of formula (J):

[0214] in which:

[0215] - R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0216] - R5denotes a C1-C4alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0217] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0218] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0219] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.

[0220] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene aminosilicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group.

[0221] Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0222] in which:

[0223] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0224] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0225] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0226] - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0227] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical;

[0228] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0229] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0230] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0231] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.

[0232] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0233] g) the α,ω-bis(amino)silicones corresponding to formula (K) below:

[0234] in which:

[0235] - the radicals R represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4alkyl group,

[0236] - the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6alkyl group or a C1-C6aminoalkyl group;

[0237] - x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

[0238] - n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the aminosilicone is between 5000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0239] Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH3(methyl).

[0240] Preferably, R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4, better still C2-C4, alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, especially ethyl; or a C2-C4aminoalkyl group, especially of structure –(CaH2a)-NH2with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

[0241] Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x = 3.

[0242] Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y = 3.

[0243] Preferably, x = y.

[0244] Preferably, n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10 000 and 150 000 g / mol, or even between 15 000 and 100 000 g / mol.

[0245] More preferentially, the aminosilicone corresponds to formula (K) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

[0246] Preferably, the silicone(s) are chosen from aminosilicones, and in particular those of formula (A), (D), (E), (F), (G) or (K), and mixtures thereof.

[0247] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the aminosilicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0249] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight and even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] The composition may also comprise a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, especially monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0251] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and preferentially from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0252] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, they correspond to formula (I) below:

[0253] in which:

[0254] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better still n = 0 or 1, preferably n = 0;

[0255] - A is a monovalent (when n = 0) or multivalent (when n is other than 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.

[0256] Mention may in particular be made, alone or as a mixture, of lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

[0257] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said carboxylic acid(s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one or more standard cosmetic ingredients chosen in particular from thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; anti-hair loss agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-straightening agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; and basifying or acidifying agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0259] The cosmetic composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, especially for cleansing and / or conditioning, most particularly conditioning, the hair.

[0260] The hair compositions according to the invention are preferably conditioners or hair masks; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a conditioner, especially a conditioning conditioner, that can be rinsed off.

[0261] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the keratin materials, notably to the hair. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time. It is preferably rinsed off, after an optional leave-on time.

[0262] A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, especially cleansing and / or conditioning, most particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, especially keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

[0263] A step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is preferably carried out after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0264] A step of drying the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, especially using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0265] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair.

[0266] The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples.Example 1

[0267] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention A and B and comparative cosmetic compositions A’ and B’ are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material (% g AM).

[0268] A(inv)A’(comp)B(inv)B’(comp)Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (i)11.251.51.5Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (ii)1.51.51.0051.251Cetyl esters1.2511.251.25Distarch phosphate1.51.51.51.5Cetearyl alcohol5.75.74.54.5Sunflower oil0.90.90.90.9Tartaric acid0.40.40.40.4Preservatives, fragranceqsqsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100qs 100qs 100Cetyl ester / (i) ratio1.250.800.830.83Cetyl ester / (ii) ratio0.830.671.2440.999

[0269] Compositions are obtained which can be used for the care and conditioning of the hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.

[0270] The cosmetic performance provided by compositions A and B according to the invention is evaluated in comparison with that provided respectively by the comparative compositions A’ and B’.

[0271] Protocol:

[0272] Locks of Caucasian hair sensitized beforehand by a bleaching treatment (AS20) are cleansed by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile), in a proportion of 0.3 g per gram of lock. The locks are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h – temperature 35°C). The composition to be tested is applied to the locks of still-wet hair, in a proportion of 0.45 g per gram of lock. After a waiting time of 5 minutes, the lock is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h – temperature 35°C). After wringing out, the locks are dried using a hair dryer and then evaluated.

[0273] The cosmetic performance of compositions A and A’ is evaluated on the criterion of smooth feel. The cosmetic performance of compositions B and B’ is evaluated on the criterion of homogeneity of the coating.

[0274] Performance is evaluated blind by 5 trained evaluators, who award a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0275] Evaluation of the smooth feel: the evaluator takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it through the fingers over the entire length of the lock as far as the ends. The more the hair is uniform, homogeneous from the root to the end, the fewer bumps it exhibits, the less it catches on the fingers, the better the smooth feel.

[0276] Evaluation of the coating: the evaluator takes the lock of hair in the hand, starts from the root and slides as far as the ends. The more a uniform deposit is felt along the fibre, the better the homogeneity of the coating.

[0277] The following results are obtained:

[0278] Composition AComposition A’Smooth feelScores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4Mean: 4Standard deviation: 0Scores: 3 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3Mean: 2.8Standard deviation: 0.4

[0279] Composition BComposition B’CoatingScores: 4 / 3 / 3 / 4 / 3Mean: 3.4Standard deviation: 0.5Scores: 2 / 1 / 2 / 3 / 2Mean: 2.0Standard deviation: 0.7

[0280] It is found that the compositions according to the invention provide better cosmetic properties on dry hair: the hair appears smoother and more uniform (sign of a better level of treatment); the coating is of better quality, a coated and uniform fibre, from the root to the ends, is perceived.Example 2

[0281] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material (% g AM).

[0282] Example 2Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (i)0.95Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (ii)1Cetyl esters1.2Distarch phosphate1.5Cetearyl alcohol4.6Sunflower oil0.9Amodimethicone0.2Tartaric acid0.4Preservatives, fragranceqsWaterqs 100Cetyl ester / (i) ratio1.26Cetyl ester / (ii) ratio1.2

[0283] A composition is obtained which can be used for the care and conditioning of the hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.Example 3

[0284] The cosmetic composition according to the invention A and comparative cosmetic composition A’’ are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material (% g AM).

[0285] A(inv)A’’(comp)Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (i)11Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (ii)1.51.5Cetyl esters1.251.25Distarch phosphate1.5-Cetearyl alcohol5.75.7Sunflower oil0.90.9Tartaric acid0.40.4Preservatives, fragranceqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100

[0286] Compositions are obtained which can be used for the care and conditioning of the hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.

[0287] The cosmetic performance provided by composition A according to the invention is evaluated in comparison with that provided respectively by the comparative composition A’’.

[0288] Protocol:

[0289] Locks of Caucasian hair sensitized beforehand by a bleaching treatment (AS20) are cleansed by applying a standard shampoo. The locks are then rinsed with water and the composition to be tested is applied to the locks of still-wet hair, in a proportion of 5.4 g per gram of lock. Then, the locks are rinsed with water.

[0290] The cosmetic performance of compositions A and A’’ is evaluated on the criterion of ease of the distribution and of smooth feel.

[0291] Performance is evaluated blind by 5 trained evaluators, who award a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (high performance), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0292] Evaluation of the ease of the distribution: Each composition was distributed along the lock by passing fingers 6 times along the lock: 5 experts then evaluated the ease of distribution on a score ranging from 0 (very difficult, distribution not at all homogeneous) to 5 (very easy, very homogeneous distribution).

[0293] Evaluation of the smooth feel: The 5 experts then blindly evaluated the performance in terms of smooth feel on a score ranging from 0 (not smooth) to 5 (very smooth). To evaluate the smooth feel, the expert grasped the hair lock between their thumb and index finger and slid their fingers along the lock from the top section to the tips. They assessed whether the hair was soft, free of roughness, did not catch on the fingers, and had a homogeneous feel.

[0294] The following results are obtained:

[0295] Composition AComposition A’’Ease of distributionScores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4Mean: 4Standard deviation: 0Scores: 2.5 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 4Mean: 3.1Standard deviation: 0.55

[0296] Composition AComposition A’’Smooth feelScores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4Mean: 4Standard deviation: 0Scores: 3 / 2.5 / 2.5 / 3 / 3Mean: 2.8Standard deviation: 0.27

[0297] It is found that the composition A according to the invention provides significantly superior ease of distribution compared to comparative composition A’’. Further, ccomposition A, according to the invention, was judged superior to composition A’’ in terms of smooth feel.

Claims

Cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:- one or more fatty amines,- one or more quaternary ammonium diesters,- one or more starch phosphates, and- one or more esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol,in which:the weight ratio (R’) between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of fatty amines is greater than or equal to 1; and / orthe weight ratio (R’’) between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters is greater than or equal to 1.Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the fatty amines are chosen from fatty amidoamines, in particular the amidoamines of formula: RCONHR’’N(R’)2in which:- R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical;in particular from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.Composition according to either of the preceding claims, comprising the fatty amine(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more quaternary ammonium diesters corresponding to the formula (A):in which:- R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40hydrocarbon group,- R3and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C4alkyl groups, C1-C4hydroxyalkyl groups, and C1-C4dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C6divalent alkyl group, and- X-represents an anion;preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) being such that:- R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a preferably linear, C7-C29, better still C9-C21, even better still C11-C19hydrocarbon group;- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a divalent C1-C4, better still C1-C2, even better still C2alkyl group; preferably A and A’ being identical;- R3represents a C1-C4, better still C1-C2alkyl group, even better still a methyl group;- R4represents a C1-C4, better still C1-C2alkyl group, even better still a methyl group; or a C1-C4, better still C2-C3hydroxyalkyl group, even better still the -CH2CH2OH group;- X-represents a halide or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfate;preferentially, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) being such that:- R1and R2represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21, better still C11-C19hydrocarbon group;- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2divalent alkyl group; preferably A and A’ being identical; and- R3and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2alkyl groups and C2-C3hydroxyalkyl groups,- X-represents a halide or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfate;better still, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) being chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, distearoylethyl dimonium, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium and dioleoylethyl dimonium, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium salts, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the quaternary ammonium diester(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of cationic surfactants ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight, notably from 0.4% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the starch phosphate(s) are chosen from monostarch phosphates, distarch phosphates and tristarch phosphates; starch phosphates containing hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl groups, in particular starch phosphates containing hydroxypropyl groups and starch phosphates containing hydroxyethyl groups, and mixtures thereof; better still from, alone or as a mixture, distarch phosphates, in particular compounds with the INCI name: DISTARCH PHOSPHATE; and starch phosphates containing hydroxypropyl groups, in particular compounds with the INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the starch phosphate(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more esters, preferably solid esters, of a saturated carboxylic acid, preferably monocarboxylic acid, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and of a saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms;notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- C8-C32, in particular C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl palmitates such as octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate;- C8-C32, in particular C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate;- C8-C32, in particular C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl stearates such as octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the ester(s) of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of fatty amines is between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between firstly the total content of esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol and secondly the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters is between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better still between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional fatty substances, notably chosen from:- liquid fatty substances, in particular chosen from triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin; and / or- solid fatty substances, in particular chosen from solid fatty alcohols.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones, in particular one or more aminosilicones.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65% and 98% by weight, preferably between 70% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 75% and 92% by weight, even better still between 80% and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular cleansing and / or conditioning, very particularly conditioning, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition as defined in one of the preceding claims to said keratin materials.

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