Glyceryl stearate emulsifiers in cosmetic emulsions

By using glyceryl stearate emulsifiers in cosmetic emulsions, the warming effect is mitigated, achieving a cooling sensation on the skin, addressing the challenge of high temperatures without relying on high ethanol content.

WO2026104140A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-05-21BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
BEIERSDORF AG
Filing Date
2025-10-15
Publication Date
2026-05-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetic emulsions typically have a warming/insulating effect due to their lipophilic components, which is undesirable, especially in high temperatures, and adding high amounts of ethanol is limited, making it difficult to achieve a cooling effect.

Method used

Incorporating glyceryl stearate emulsifiers, such as glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, and glyceryl stearate, into cosmetic emulsions to enhance the cooling effect on the skin.

Benefits of technology

The combination of these emulsifiers effectively increases the cooling sensation upon application, providing a refreshing experience without the need for excessive ethanol.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of glyceryl stearate emulsifiers in cosmetic emulsions for increasing the cooling effect of the cosmetic preparation on the skin.
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Description

[0001] Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft

[0002] Hamburg

[0003] Description

[0004] Cooling cosmetic emulsion

[0005] The present invention relates to the use of glyceryl stearate emulsifiers in cosmetic emulsions to increase the cooling effect of the cosmetic preparation on the skin.

[0006] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is rooted in human nature. Even though the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0007] For the skin to fully perform its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Cleansing the skin removes dirt, sweat, and dead skin cells, which provide an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products primarily moisturize and replenish the skin's natural oils. They often contain active ingredients that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent or reduce premature aging (such as the formation of fine lines and wrinkles) or protect against the negative effects of UV radiation. Skin care products are typically offered in the form of emulsions, in which an outer water phase contains stably dispersed oil droplets (oil-in-water emulsion), or in which stably dispersed water droplets are present in a continuous oil phase (water-in-oil emulsion).

[0008] When applied to the skin, cosmetic emulsions often have a warming / insulating effect because their lipophilic components reduce the evaporation of perspiration. This is particularly undesirable in sunscreens, which are typically used in summer when temperatures are high, an environment where consumers generally prefer cooling. One way to achieve cooling effects is to add high amounts of ethanol to the preparations. However, the amount of ethanol that can be added to an emulsion is limited. Therefore, the object of the present invention was to find ways to impart an effective cooling effect to cosmetic emulsions after application to the skin.

[0009] The problem is surprisingly solved by using glyceryl stearate emulsifiers in cosmetic emulsions to increase the cooling effect of the cosmetic preparation on the skin.

[0010] According to the invention, it is preferred if glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) and / or glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) are used as glyceryl stearate emulsifiers.

[0011] Particularly preferred uses according to the invention are characterized in that a combination of glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) and glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) is used as glyceryl stearate emulsifiers.

[0012] According to the invention, a cosmetic preparation containing an emulsifier combination of glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) and glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) is also included.

[0013] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion contains glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) in a concentration of 0.1 to 0.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0014] In this disclosure, “inventive”, “inventive preparation”, etc. always refer to both the preparations according to the invention and the uses according to the invention.

[0015] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the emulsion contains polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate (INCI:

[0016] Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) in a concentration of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0017] For glyceryl stearate, it is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the emulsion contains glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) in a concentration of 0.1 to 0.3 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0018] Since a cooling effect is particularly important when using sunscreens, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains one or more UV filters. In such a case, the uses preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a UV filter system made of hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), 4-(tert-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).

[0019] The advantageous uses according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) in a concentration of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0020] According to the invention, it is advantageous for 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane if the emulsion contains 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane in a concentration of 4 to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0021] For 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), the advantageous concentration according to the invention is 1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0022] According to the invention, for 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, it is advantageous if the emulsion contains 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine) in a concentration of 3 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0023] Furthermore, for the use according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation is free from polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomere), 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters (so-called PEG derivatives), parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin.

[0024] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains ethanol.

[0025] In such a case, it is advantageous within the meaning of the present invention if the preparation contains ethanol in a concentration of 3 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Comparative experiment / execution example

[0026] The following recipes were prepared and examined (all weight specifications refer to weight % of the preparation):

[0027] s

[0028]

[0029] These preparations were applied to the skin of a test subject, and the skin temperature was measured after 30 seconds using a thermal imaging camera (FLIR Thermal Studio). For this purpose, 0.5 pl of the preparation was applied to clean skin, evenly distributed over an area of ​​3.14 cm² using an index finger. 2 distributed and the temperature determined using a thermal camera (emission power 0.95, distance: 1.00m, ambient temperature: 20.0 °C, relative humidity: 50%).

Claims

Patent claims 1. Use of glyceryl stearate emulsifiers in cosmetic emulsions to enhance the cooling effect of the cosmetic preparation on the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate), polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) and / or glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) are used as glyceryl stearate emulsifiers.

3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glyceryl stearate emulsifiers are a combination of glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate), polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) and Glyceryl Stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) is used.

4. Cosmetic preparation containing an emulsifier combination of glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) and glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate).

5. Use according to any of the preceding claims or preparation according to claim 4, characterized in that the emulsion contains glyceryl stearate citrate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) in a concentration of 0.1 to 0.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) in a concentration of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) in a concentration of 0.1 to 0.3 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains one or more UV filters.

9. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a UV filter system consisting of hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate), 4-(tert-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyl-oxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) and 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).

10. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) in a concentration of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

11. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains 4-(tert-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane in a concentration of 4 to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

12. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]- 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone) in a concentration of 1 to 2 wt% based on the total weight of the preparation.

13. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}- 6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine) in a concentration of 3 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

14. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free of polyacrylates (INCI: Carbomere), 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Homosalate), 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol stems (so-called PEG derivatives), parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin.

15. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains ethanol.

16. Use or preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains ethanol in a concentration of 3 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.