Oil based capillary makeup system

Abstract

The invention relates to a makeup system, comprising an anhydrous cosmetic preparation, and a makeup device for applying the cosmetic preparation. The makeup device comprises a capillary system through which, when the makeup system is used as intended, the cosmetic preparation is conveyed. The cosmetic preparation in the capillary system comprises at least one liquid phase and one particle phase distributed in the liquid phase as dispersed phase, wherein the particle phase comprises at least one colorant and / or one filler, and wherein the liquid phase comprises at least one oil-based carrier.

Description

[0001] HOEFER & PARTNER

[0002] SCI251101PCT November 13, 2025 Applicant:

[0003] Schwan Cosmetics International GmbH

[0004] Schwanweg 1

[0005] 90562 Heroldsberg

[0006] Makeup system and uses thereof

[0007] Description

[0008] The invention relates to a makeup system with a cosmetic preparation and a makeup device with a capillary system, and uses of said makeup system.

[0009] Devices with capillary systems for applying ink in the broadest sense have long been known, for example in the form of pens. Exemplary devices with a capillary system are disclosed, for example, in DE 4331031 A1 or DE 10202681 A1. What is problematic about the use of capillary systems that are provided for the storage and / or transport of the inks is that the mass to be stored or transported must be sufficiently fluid to have sufficient flowability to be transported through the capillary reservoir. Only water-based inks are known for this purpose. However, these have various disadvantages.

[0010] Firstly, water-based inks containing water-soluble dyes can cause what is known as "staining," meaning the penetration of dissolved fractions of dye into the skin. Secondly, the water resistance of water-based inks is not always sufficient. To improve water resistance or durability, synthetic film-forming substances are often employed, but these reduce the naturalness of the preparation. Furthermore, water-based inks require a high level of preservation to prevent the formation and growth of germs. Furthermore, the incorporation of conditioning substances is limited to water-soluble substances, making formulations with a high conditioning effect virtually impossible.

[0011] Furthermore, the use of a capillary system presents further problems. Firstly, the cosmetic preparation must have very good stability so that no separations occur, which inevitably lead to clogging the capillary system and consequently, to a poor application result, if any. Secondly, tuning the viscosity of the cosmetic preparation is problematic. If the viscosity is increased in order to prevent settling of particles in the ink, then the transportability of the ink in the capillary system is reduced. If too low a viscosity is chosen, the above-described phenomenon of settling takes place, which can, secondarily, likewise lead to a clogging of the capillary system. Starting from this prior art, it is an object of the present invention to provide a makeup system that comprises a makeup device with a capillary system for applying a cosmetic preparation, wherein the cosmetic preparation is characterized by good stability, high water resistance, and a low staining tendency. Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to specify uses of the makeup system.

[0012] These objects are achieved by the independent claims. The dependent claims contain advantageous refinements and configurations of the invention.

[0013] Accordingly, the object is achieved by a makeup system comprising a cosmetic preparation and a makeup device for applying the cosmetic preparation, wherein the makeup device comprises a capillary system.

[0014] The capillary system is not substantially limited and can serve as storage (comprising so-called capillary reservoir systems with, for example, pad storage), interim storage (comprising so-called Free-lnk systems, in which the capillary system serves as the interim storage of ink to be conveyed from a cartridge or a tank, for example by means of a disk storage) and / or the application (comprising nibs in conventional fountain pens or felt-tip pens with felted application tips, or also flocked tips, sintered tips, brush tips, fiber tips or sponge-like tips) of the cosmetic preparation. It is essential that, when the makeup device is used as intended, the cosmetic preparation is stored, conveyed or fed by the capillary system or moves through it.

[0015] Unless otherwise stated, the raw materials disclosed herein are specified by their INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).

[0016] The makeup device according to the invention may, for example, be designed in the form of a pen, with an applicator and the capillary system for storing and / or transporting and / or applying the cosmetic preparation. Exemplary devices with a capillary system that are usable for the present invention are disclosed, for example, in DE 4331031 A1 or DE 10202681 A1. In principle, however, any device for makeup may be used that comprises a capillary system as specified above.

[0017] An application device of the makeup device is not specifically limited and is also not absolutely necessary for providing the cosmetic preparation in the makeup device. However, to facilitate the application of the cosmetic preparation, the makeup device may further comprise an applicator which is designed, for example, in the form of a fiber tip, a ball system or, if the applicator is an applicator with a capillary system, for example as a felted application tip or a flocked tip, sintered tip, brush tip, fiber tip or sponge-like tip or the like, and does not have to be a permanent component of the makeup device, but may be selectively arranged thereon.

[0018] In the makeup system according to the invention, the cosmetic preparation, when used as intended, passes through the capillary system and can either be stored there, transported through it or applied from there; in any case, the cosmetic preparation is transported or conveyed through the capillary system and passes through the capillary system.

[0019] The cosmetic preparation comprises a liquid phase and a particulate phase. The particulate phase is present as a dispersed phase distributed in the liquid phase and is formulated to be resistant to settling or redispersible therein, so that at least after redispersion (for example, by shaking the makeup system), the dispersed phase is evenly distributed in the liquid phase. If the cosmetic preparation is present in a capillary reservoir system, large-volume settling is prevented by the compartmentalization of the individual volume elements. If the cosmetic preparation is present in a non-capillary mass storage system and is merely transported, conveyed, and / or applied via a capillary system, the cosmetic preparation in the mass storage system is, if not resistant to settling, at least readily redispersible.

[0020] The liquid phase is anhydrous. This means that no water has been added to the cosmetic preparation. The water content is therefore less than 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, and is preferably 0% by mass.

[0021] The liquid phase comprises at least one oil-based carrier. As used in the present invention, an oil-based carrier is understood to mean any hydrophobic substance that is liquid at 25 °C and an ambient pressure of 1 bar, and immiscible with water. The oil-based carrier is therefore not water-soluble, i.e. , has a water solubility of less than 0.01 g / l in water at 25 °C.

[0022] An oil-based carrier may be employed alone or two or more oil-based carriers may be employed in combination, allowing the application and wear properties of the cosmetic preparation to be finely tuned. Unless otherwise stated, any information provided below regarding the oil-based carrier applies to all oil-based carriers employed according to the invention.

[0023] The liquid phase is a single-phase or multi-phase anhydrous matrix, and, in particular, a singlephase system in which the raw materials, with the exception of the particulate raw materials (colorants and fillers), are homogeneously distributed. In any case, classic W / O emulsions, O / W emulsions, and W / O / W emulsions are excluded from the scope of protection simply because the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is anhydrous. When using, for example, silicone oils in combination with hydrocarbon-based oils, two or more phases may form, which are, however, so well dispersed into one another that no separations or phase separation occur.

[0024] The particulate phase comprises at least one colorant or at least one particulate filler and may also comprise a combination of one or more colorants with one or more fillers. References to colorant and / or filler below refer to all colorants or fillers, unless otherwise stated.

[0025] As used in the present invention, colorants are not specifically limited and comprise all types of pigments, i.e., coloring substances insoluble in the matrix, as well as oil-soluble or water-soluble dyes. By using one or more colorants, a coloring cosmetic preparation can be provided that enables uniform and covering coloring of the application area. Due to the fact that the cosmetic preparation is anhydrous, it is also possible to use water-soluble dyes as colorants, or pigments that are characterized by partial solubility in water. The oil-based carrier prevents the coloring substances from "migrating" onto the skin and penetrating the skin by enclosing these substances. They are thus not released from the cosmetic preparation. This enables a particularly wide variety of colors for the cosmetic preparation without the adverse effect of staining.

[0026] As used in the present invention, fillers are understood to mean all particulate substances that have no inherent color, and are therefore usually applied in the form of white powders. Examples include dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, nylon, silica, talc, alumina, kaolin, mica, polymethyl methacrylate, and others. Fillers may be selected, in particular, based on their haptic properties.

[0027] It has surprisingly been found that anhydrous oil-based cosmetic preparations which contain colorants and / or fillers are sufficiently stable perse, even without the addition of wetting agents or stabilizers, such as, for example, surfactants or emulsifiers, to be stored, conveyed or transported in a capillary system without decomposition. The person skilled in the art can easily tune suitable viscosities of the cosmetic preparation depending on the capillary system to be used, for example by adjusting the quantity of oil-based carrier and / or the quantity of colorant or filler Waxes (vegetable, animal or synthetic, as well as (petroleum-based) hydrocarbons) with a melting range of 35 °C to 95 °C may also be employed to tune the viscosity.

[0028] Due to the fact that the cosmetic preparation is anhydrous and contains at least one oil-based carrier, it is generally not necessary to add a preservative, so that the cosmetic preparation is characterized by a high skin and mucous membrane compatibility due to a lower irritation potential compared to preparations containing preservatives. Because the cosmetic preparation contains no water and is therefore oil-based, it also offers natural water resistance even without the use of film-forming agents. Water dripping onto the cosmetic preparation simply beads off its surface without washing away any of the cosmetic preparation.

[0029] The makeup system according to the invention is therefore ideally suited for the permanent makeup of skin, mucous membranes, semi-mucous membranes or keratinous fibers without penetrating any skin areas and permanently coloring them, wherein high water resistance and thus also a very good permanent application is achieved in a natural way.

[0030] To increase the color density and thus improve the color intensity of the cosmetic preparation, or to improve the sensory and / or haptic properties of the cosmetic preparation, the quantity of colorant and / or filler, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is preferably 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 8 to 35% by mass, and in particular 9 to 30% by mass. If two or more colorants and / or two or more fillers are employed, the above quantities refer to the total mass of all colorants and fillers employed in the cosmetic preparation.

[0031] Quantities of colorants below 5% by mass produce a translucent color appearance, which may be used, for example, for cheek makeup (blush). Even smaller quantities of colorants may be effectively combined with fillers to achieve a total mass of at least 5% by mass, wherein the combined use with one or more fillers enables the establishment of a very good sensory application experience.

[0032] However, the makeup system is also suitable for applying lines of varying widths that have a well-covering color layer. For this purpose, it is advantageous if a quantity of colorant is at least 5% by mass, and in particular at least 8 or 9% by mass.

[0033] Quantities of colorant or filler exceeding 40% by mass may negatively impact the viscosity and thus the flow properties of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system and are therefore less preferred. In light of good and evenly covering color payoff or very good haptic and application properties, quantities of colorant and / or filler of 8 to 35% by mass, and in particular of 9 to 30% by mass, are particularly preferred. The colorants and fillers employed are not substantially limited, but should be employable under the applicable legal provisions in which the cosmetics are intended to be used.

[0034] As already described above, the oil-based carrier is substantially not limited. Particularly advantageous in light of high water resistance and reduced staining effect are volatile hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, petroleum-based oils, and silicone oils as oil-based carriers, which may be employed individually or in any combination. Volatile hydrocarbons comprise, for example, short-chain linear and branched hydrocarbons, isododecane, isoparaffin, and C9-12 alkanes. As used in the present invention, “volatile” refers to substances that vaporize or evaporate at 25 °C and an air pressure of 1 bar. Vegetable oils comprise all types of vegetable oils, such as, for example, walnut oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, jojoba oil (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), and the like. These vegetable oils include, for example, inter alia, ester oils such as, for example, myristyl myristate and isopropyl myristate, which may also be semi-synthetic. Petroleum-based oils comprise paraffin oils or polymeric oils, such as, for example, long-chain linear hydrocarbons, (hydrogenated) polybutenes, and (hydrogenated) polyisobutenes, which are non-volatile and therefore remain on the application area. Silicone oils comprise all types of silicone oils, that is to say cyclic, linear, and branched silicone oils. These silicon oils may be volatile, such as, for example, disiloxanes, trisiloxanes, cyclotetrasiloxanes, cyclopentasiloxanes, and cyclohexasiloxanes, or non-volatile, such as, for example, dimethicone.

[0035] Appropriately combining two or more oil-based carriers allows fine-tuning the application and wear properties of the cosmetic preparation, as well as its stability. Non-volatile oil-based carriers have proven particularly advantageous for lip makeup, as they achieve a lasting refatting effect that is very pleasant on the lips. For eye makeup, oil-based carriers containing a high proportion of volatile substances have proven particularly advantageous, as this can improve the lasting retention at the application site and make the cosmetic preparation less likely to slip or run, for example, into the eyelid crease.

[0036] To improve the flow properties of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system, the quantity of oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the preparation, is preferably 20 to 80% by mass, in particular 25 to 75% by mass, and in particular 30 to 70% by mass. The appropriate quantity can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art through routine testing. This quantity depends on the quantity of colorant and / or filler employed. Quantities of oil-based carrier of 25 to 75% by mass or even 30 to 70% by mass are very suitable for quantities of colorant and / or filler of 8 to 35% by mass and even 9 to 30% by mass.

[0037] As already set forth above by way of example for applications to the eye, the oil-based carrier comprises at least one volatile oil-based carrier to improve the stability of the cosmetic preparation at the application site. An oil-based volatile carrier is understood to mean any water-insoluble or water-immiscible substance (meaning substances that have a solubility in water of < 0.1 g / l at 25 °C, such as, for example, disiloxane, which has a solubility in water of < 0.001 g / l at 25 °C, or isododecane, which has a solubility in water of < 0.0001 g / l at 25 °C) that evaporates or vaporizes at 25 °C and an air pressure of 1 bar. After a drying time of about 5 minutes, at least 80% by mass of the volatile oil-based carrier should have evaporated and thus no longer be present in significant proportions in the remaining cosmetic preparation. This is sufficient to achieve a long-lasting application, which is particularly important for cosmetic preparations with a high colorant content.

[0038] In light of a long-lasting application without the cosmetic preparation slipping, smearing, or migrating from the application site, the quantity of volatile oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the oil-based carrier, is preferably at least 30% by mass, in particular at least 40% by mass, and in particular at least 50% by mass. The higher the proportion of volatile oil-based carrier, the better the cosmetic preparation adheres to the application site, but the less refatting it is. Quantities of a maximum of 90% by mass of volatile oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the oil-based carrier, are therefore a very good compromise between good adhesive properties and good wear properties of the cosmetic preparation.

[0039] In order to improve the stability of the cosmetic preparation prior to application, i.e. in particular during storage or in the capillary reservoir, in order to further prevent settling of the particulate phase in the oil-based carrier, to avoid such settling altogether, or at least to enable easy redispersion, the cosmetic preparation advantageously contains at least one emulsifier.

[0040] As used in the present invention, an emulsifier is a substance that has a polar portion and a non-polar portion. The emulsifier is soluble in the oil-soluble carrier at 25 °C and an air pressure of 1 bar and is preferably also liquid under these conditions. Preferably, an emulsifier may be used alone or two or more emulsifiers may be used in combination. The non-polar portion is not substantially limited and may, for example, be a silicone moiety (dimethicone polydimethylsiloxane, substituted or unsubstituted in each case), a fatty acid moiety, a fatty alcohol moiety, or a linear or branched hydrocarbon moiety. The polar portion preferably comprises, in particular, a polyethylene oxide moiety and / or a polypropylene oxide moiety and / or a glyceryl moiety and / or a sorbitan moiety. Several of these moieties and also combinations of substances with these moieties may be employed. The polar moieties may also be substituted with polar groups, such as, for example, hydroxide groups, carboxyl groups, amino groups, or carbonyl groups. It is essential that the combination of polar portion and nonpolar portion in the emulsifier forms a substance that is soluble in the oil-based carrier used at 25 °C and an air pressure of 1 bar, i.e., does not form a separate phase. The non-polar portion ensures that the emulsifier is very well and homogeneously distributed and "anchored" in the cosmetic preparation. The polar component allows the particle phase to be stabilized very well, so that colorants and fillers are prevented from settling in the cosmetic preparation or can be redispersed readily. This not only improves the transport and storage properties of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system, but also allows for more uniform application of the cosmetic preparation, which, particularly when colorants are used, leads to uniform color payoff and coloring at the application site. Due to its excellent properties in stabilizing the cosmetic preparation, the emulsifier is preferably selected from the group consisting of: polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG- 10 dimethicone, aminomethicone glycerocarbamate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, PEG / PPG-20 / 15 dimethicone + diisopropyl adipate, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] The quantity of emulsifier is not substantially limited. To most effectively avoid irritation at the application site, the proportion of emulsifier in the cosmetic preparation is preferably as low as possible. A very good compromise between stabilizing properties and the lowest possible irritation potential is achieved when the quantity of emulsifier, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 1 to 15% by mass, in particular 2 to 12% by mass, and in particular 2.5 to 10% by mass. A proportion of 1 to 15% by mass of emulsifier is perfectly sufficient for a colorant and / or filler content of 5 to 40% by mass.

[0042] To improve the water resistance as well as the adhesive properties of the cosmetic preparation at the application site, the cosmetic preparation preferably contains at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance. As used in the present invention, an oil-soluble or oil-dispersible substance is understood to mean a substance that is soluble in the oil-soluble carrier at 25 °C and an air pressure of 1 bar, or at least dispersible to the extent that two separate phases do not form, but rather the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance is evenly distributed in the oil-based carrier. The oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance is preferably soluble in the oil-based carrier under the specified conditions. Regarding film-forming properties, the person skilled in the art can inquire about suitable substances via the reported function (reported function - film-forming agent) at the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) or the Personal Care Products Council. Suitable film-forming substances employed according to the invention include both waxes and polymeric substances.

[0043] Due to their excellent film-forming properties, the following oil-soluble or oil-dispersible filmforming substances are selected preferably: Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) Seed Wax, trimethylsiloxysilicate, and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, and any mixtures thereof. The aforementioned substances not only improve water resistance but also the adhesion properties of the cosmetic preparation at the application site.

[0044] In order to further improve the film-forming properties of the cosmetic preparation, the quantity of oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is preferably 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 7 to 35% by mass and in particular 9 to 30% by mass. Even small quantities of 5% by mass can be sufficient to produce a smooth but durable film without a tendency to crack. This applies in particular to film-forming agents that form hard films, such as, for example, trimethylsiloxysilicates. High quantities of at least 7% by mass or even at least 9% by mass are particularly suitable for applications around the eyes, or when the cosmetic preparation is to be applied only as a line, as with eyeliner or lip liner, and not over an entire surface, as with eyeshadow or lipstick. In this case, quantities of up to 40% by mass may also be employed very effectively.

[0045] The cosmetic preparation used for the makeup system according to the invention is particularly suitable for cosmetic care preparations due to the proportion of oil-based carrier. Therefore, the cosmetic preparation preferably further comprises at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible care substance, such as emollients, active ingredients, and vitamins.

[0046] To fine-tune the flow properties of the cosmetic preparation, the cosmetic preparation preferably contains at least one thickener. Particularly suitable thickeners are, for example, phyllosilicates such as hectorite or bentonite.

[0047] Another advantage of the cosmetic preparation is that it is free of preservatives. Preservatives are understood to mean substances listed at the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) or the Personal Care Products Council with "preservative" as their reported function. Since the cosmetic preparation is free from water, it may preferably be formulated without preservatives without being subject to significant germ formation or germ proliferation. In addition to the components essential to the invention, the cosmetic preparation may comprise further cosmetic raw materials as additives, provided that these do not negatively impact the advantageous effects achieved with the makeup system according to the invention. As already described above, the specific composition of the cosmetic preparation is not limited, provided the cosmetic preparation is anhydrous. For stability reasons, and in particular to prevent clogging of the capillary reservoir, the liquid phase of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system is preferably present in the form of a single-phase liquid phase. This singlephase liquid phase is oil-based, and the particulate phase is present in dispersed form in this liquid phase. The cosmetic preparation thus comprises exclusively a homogeneous, anhydrous liquid phase, and dispersed therein is a dispersed phase comprising at least one colorant and / or one filler.

[0048] Furthermore, the invention also describes the use of the above-described makeup system for applying makeup to hair and / or skin and / or mucous membranes and / or semi-mucous membranes. This allows these application areas to be made up particularly evenly, as a result of which both very good color coverage and pleasant sensory properties can be achieved. The makeup device allows here, in particular, for smooth application without thinning of the drawn line, which is attributable to the stability and, in particular, the settling and separation stability of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system.

[0049] The invention also discloses the use of the above-described makeup system as an eyeliner, brow liner, or lip liner. Application in the form of an eyeliner or brow liner has proven particularly advantageous in combination with a makeup device with a capillary system, as this allows particularly evenly strong and color-covering lines to be applied without the need to separately wet an applicator with cosmetic preparation. The cosmetic preparation automatically flows from the capillary system and can effectively wet an applicator for applying the cosmetic preparation to the desired area.

[0050] Examples

[0051] The following invention will be described in detail by way of examples, without being limited thereto.

[0052] The examples are further explained using the drawing. In the drawing:

[0053] Fig. 1 shows a makeup system according to an embodiment of the invention.

[0054] Fig. 1 shows, byway of example, a schematic makeup system 100 according to an embodiment of the invention. Makeup system 100 comprises a makeup device 10 comprising a sleeve 1 in which a capillary system 6 and a fiber tip 5 are arranged. A seal 4 in a protective cap 3 protects a cosmetic preparation 7 in the makeup device from drying out, which cosmetic preparation 7 is stored in capillary system 6 and from there transported via fiber tip 5 for application. An end cap 2 provides protection against drying out via the rear region of makeup device 10.

[0055] The corresponding examples (cosmetic preparations) were prepared from the raw materials listed in the table below by stirring and subsequent homogenization at room temperature by means of an Ultraturrax (rotor-stator homogenizer).

[0056] The cosmetic preparations were evaluated after production according to the following test procedure.

[0057] To evaluate the cosmetic preparations, the cosmetic preparations were applied to a test person's forearm, which had been thoroughly cleaned with soap and water and then dried, in the form of a square area with a side length of 3 cm in each case, and left to dry for 30 minutes at room temperature (25 °C).

[0058] Water resistance To determine water resistance, the individual dried preparation squares were rinsed with running water at a temperature of 30 °C ± 1 °C. The diameter of the nozzle of the water pipe from which the water was drawn was 6 mm, and a water flow rate of 3.2 l / min was maintained. The distance between the nozzle and the preparation squares was 10 cm. The water rinse lasted 5 minutes. The preparation squares were then blotted dry with white cellulose paper. A visual evaluation was carried out:

[0059] 1 = waterproof (no thinning / washing off of the preparation can be detected)

[0060] 2 = moderately waterproof (minimal thinning / washing off of the preparation can be detected) 3 = not waterproof (significant thinning / washing off of the preparation can be detected)

[0061] T ransfer resistance

[0062] To determine the transfer resistance, a white cellulose paper was printed on the individual dried preparation squares for 10 seconds after conducting the water resistance test.

[0063] A visual evaluation was carried out:

[0064] 1 = transfer-resistant (no residue of the preparation on the cellulose paper)

[0065] 2 = moderately transfer-resistant (minimal residues of the preparation on the cellulose paper) 3 = not transfer-resistant (significant residues of the preparation on the cellulose paper)

[0066] Smudge resistance

[0067] To determine the smudge resistance, a dry finger was rubbed once over the individual dried preparation squares after the transfer resistance determination was carried out.

[0068] A visual evaluation was carried out:

[0069] 1 = smudge-resistant (no visible smudges)

[0070] 2 = moderately smudge-resistant (minimal smudges visible)

[0071] 3 = not smudge-resistant (significant smudges visible)

[0072] Ink flow

[0073] The cosmetic preparation was filled into a final pen and stored vertically at room temperature (25 °C) for 24 hours with the applicator facing down.

[0074] A line about 3 cm long was then applied to paper and skin.

[0075] A visual evaluation was carried out:

[0076] 1 = good (even and homogeneous delivery)

[0077] 2 = satisfactory (less even and / or homogeneous delivery

[0078] 3 = poor (uneven and inhomogeneous delivery)

[0079]

[0080]

[0081] All cosmetic preparations of the examples according to the invention exhibited very good settling stability and redispersibility, respectively. They could be readily filled into a makeup device, as shown in Fig. 1 , for example, and showed no separation after storage for 40 weeks at room temperature.

[0082] The color application from the makeup device was even, color-intensive and without streaks, which also indicated a homogeneous cosmetic preparation.

[0083] The water resistance of the cosmetic preparations was determined. None of the preparations showed any color thinning, running, or smearing on the back of the hand. Visual evaluation of water resistance showed that all preparations were waterproof.

[0084] In addition, attempts were subsequently made to wash off the applied preparations with soap to remove the cosmetic preparations. No color residues were found on the forearm, thus no staining occurred.

[0085] The following additional comparative examples were prepared:

[0086] Comparative Example 1 :

[0087]

[0088]

[0089] Comparative Example 2:

[0090]

[0091] Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were prepared by bringing the solvents and surfactants together to about 60 °C and stirring them. The colorants were then added, and the mixtures were homogenized for 1 minute using an Ultraturrax. The mixtures were then cooled to about 40 °C, the film-forming agents and preservatives, as well as any preservative boosters, were added, and stirred again until homogeneous. The finished preparations were then cooled to room temperature.

[0092] Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are commercially available water-based “waterproof” eyeliners containing film forming agents. To determine water resistance, the preparations of Examples 4, 5, and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were applied to a forearm as described above and then rinsed with water according to the test protocol. A smudge resistance test was also conducted.

[0093] Result: Examples 4 and 5 according to the invention remained almost unchanged on the forearm, while Comparative Examples 1 and 2 showed significant abrasion and thus loss of the cosmetic preparation at the application area.

[0094] To evaluate staining, Comparative Example 3 was prepared as an additional example:

[0095]

[0096] Comparative Example 3 is a commercially available “waterproof” eyeliner containing film forming agent containing an organic dye.

[0097] Here again, a water resistance test and a smudge resistance test were conducted. Result: In Comparative Example 3, the dye was partially washed off and caused a staining effect on the skin, respectively. The color differed significantly (change from blue to pink) from the original color application. The color impression of Inventive Example 5 remained unchanged.

[0098] In addition, the following series of tests were conducted:

[0099] A. Test series with film forming agents

[0100]

[0101]

[0102]

[0103]

[0104]

[0105]

[0106]

[0107]

[0108]

[0109]

[0110] The cosmetic preparations of Examples 1A, 1B, 1C and 1 E, 2A to 2E, 3A to 3E, 4A to 4E, and 5A to 5E were prepared analogously to Examples 1 to 3. Cosmetic preparation 1D corresponded to the cosmetic preparation from Example 4. The results of the tests conducted can be found in the tables above.

[0111] All tests in test series 1-5 demonstrated excellent water resistance even without the use of filmforming agents (Tests 1A = 2A = 3A = 4A = 5A). This demonstrates the advantageous effect of an anhydrous cosmetic preparation using an oil-based carrier.

[0112] Test 2E demonstrates that too much film forming agent may have a negative effect on water resistance, as the applied film becomes too thick and inflexible and may therefore be partially removed by the water jet.

[0113] Transfer resistance was also satisfactory even without film forming agent, but could be further improved by using small quantities of film forming agent.

[0114] Here, too, the use of too much film forming agent had a partially negative effect, as the drying time was insufficient due to the increased layer thickness (see Tests 3D, 3E, 4D, and 4E). This negative effect did not occur with the particularly preferred film forming agents trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer (silicone acrylate).

[0115] The use of Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) Seed Wax also had a positive effect on the transfer resistance (see Test 5A < 5B < 5C = 5D = 5E).

[0116] Wipe resistance could also be significantly increased by selecting a suitable film forming agent. For TMS and silicone acrylate, as little as 5% by mass and 8% by mass, respectively, were sufficient (see Tests 1B and 2C).

[0117] With sunflower wax, the improvement in smudge resistance was not as significant, but quite satisfactory.

[0118] The use of sunflower wax, even at the lowest quantities employed of 0.5% by mass, showed a significantly reduced running into fine lines (see Test 5A vs. Test 5B). In other words, the use of sunflower wax improved contour firmness. B. Test series with emulsifiers

[0119]

[0120]

[0121]

[0122]

[0123] The cosmetic preparations of Examples 6A (corresponded to Example 3), 6B, 1A and 7A were prepared analogously to Examples 1 to 5.

[0124] To evaluate ink flow, the cosmetic preparations were filled into the following makeup devices as indicated in the tables:

[0125] In the case of the present examples, where an example was designated "fiber tip / fiber reservoir," a makeup device was used in which the fiber reservoir consisted of PET fibers with a density of 0.1 g / cm3and a fiber tip made of nylon fibers having a porosity of approximately 71 %. Both the fiber tip and the fiber reservoir were capillary systems within the meaning of the present invention.

[0126] The examples showed that ink flow can be positively impacted by the use of a suitable emulsifier system (see a comparison of Test 1A vs. Test 7A and Test 6A vs. Test 6B, respectively). Test 7A, with an emulsifier in the fiber tip / fiber reservoir system, even exceeded the ink flow of a Free-lnk system, which is fundamentally more suitable for flow (ink is stored in the makeup device in a non-capillary volume that serves as a reservoir; the fiber tip used was a capillary system and was comparable to that of the "fiber tip / fiber reservoir" makeup device).

[0127] However, the tests also showed that if a suitable film forming agent is employed, the emulsifier can be dispensed with (see a comparison of Test 1A vs. Test 1B).

[0128] In addition to the above written description of the invention, reference is hereby explicitly made to the graphic representation of the invention in the figure for its supplementary disclosure.

Claims

1. Claims1. A makeup system, comprising:3.- an anhydrous cosmetic preparation, and4.- a makeup device for applying the cosmetic preparation,5.wherein the makeup device comprises a capillary system through which, when the makeup system is used as intended, the cosmetic preparation is conveyed,6.wherein the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system comprises at least one liquid phase and a particle phase as dispersed phase is distributed in the liquid phase,7.wherein the particle phase comprises at least one colorant and / or one filler, and wherein the liquid phase comprises at least one oil-based carrier.

2. The makeup system according to claim 1 , wherein the quantity of colorant and / or filler, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 8 to 35% by mass, and in particular 9 to 30% by mass.

3. The makeup system according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil-based carrier is at least one oil-based carrier selected from volatile hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, petroleum-based oils and silicone oils.

4. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the quantity of oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the preparation, is 20 to 80% by mass, in particular 25 to 75% by mass, and in particular 30 to 70% by mass.

5. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oilbased carrier comprises at least one volatile oil-based carrier.

6. The makeup system according to claim 5, wherein the quantity of volatile oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the oil-based carrier, is at least 30% by mass, in particular at least 40% by mass, and in particular at least 50% by mass.

7. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, further containing at least one emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier has a polar portion and a non-polar portion, and the polar portion comprises in particular a polyethylene oxide moiety and / or a polypropylene oxide moiety and / or a glyceryl moiety and / or a sorbitan moiety.

8. The makeup system according to claim 7, wherein the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of: polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG-10 dimethicone, aminomethocone glycerocarbamate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, PEG / PPG-20 / 15 dimethicone + diisopropyl adipate, and mixtures thereof.

9. The makeup system according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the quantity of emulsifier, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 1 to 15% by mass, in particular 2 to 12% by mass, and in particular 2.5 to 10% by mass.

10. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, further containing at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance.

11. The makeup system according to claim 10, wherein the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance is selected from Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) Seed Wax, trimethylsiloxysilicate and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

12. The makeup system according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the quantity of oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 7 to 35% by mass, and in particular 9 to 30% by mass.

13. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, further containing at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible conditioning substance.

14. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, further containing at least one thickener.

15. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation is free from preservatives.

16. The makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid phase of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system is present in the form of a singlephase liquid phase.

17. Use of the makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims for making up skin and / or mucous membranes and / or semi-mucous membranes.

18. The use of the makeup system according to any one of claims 1 to 16 as eyeliner, brow liner, lip liner or lipstick.

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