Hair treatment compositions

The hair conditioner with glutamate salt and cationic surfactant increases the denaturation temperature of damaged hair proteins, effectively repairing structural integrity by forming a lamellar phase.

WO2026114835A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-06-04UNILEVER IP HLDG BV +2

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
UNILEVER IP HLDG BV
Filing Date
2025-11-25
Publication Date
2026-06-04

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair treatments fail to effectively repair the internal protein structure of damaged hair, particularly after intensive chemical treatments like bleaching, leading to reduced denaturation temperatures and structural integrity.

Method used

A hair conditioner composition containing a glutamate salt, preferably monosodium glutamate, at a pH of 2 to 4.1, combined with a cationic conditioning surfactant and fatty alcohol, forms a lamellar phase that increases the denaturation temperature of hair proteins, enhancing structural repair.

Benefits of technology

The conditioner composition significantly raises the denaturation temperature of damaged hair proteins to that of virgin hair, providing progressive repair and improved structural integrity.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure IMGF000008_0001
    Figure IMGF000008_0001
  • Figure IMGF000014_0001
    Figure IMGF000014_0001
  • Figure IMGF000015_0001
    Figure IMGF000015_0001
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

A hair conditioner composition, comprising: i) 0.2 to 2.5 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt %, of a glutamate salt, preferably sodium glutamate, most preferably monosodium glutamate; and ii) a conditioning gel phase comprising: (a) a cationic conditioning surfactant; and (b) a fatty alcohol; wherein the pH is in the range of from 2 to less than 4.1.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

[0001] HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The invention relates to hair conditioner compositions for the repair of hair damage and methods of use thereof.

[0004] BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART

[0005] Consumers regularly subject their hair to intensive treatment, and care and styling routines to help them achieve their desired look. The actions performed by consumers introduce modifications to the chemistry of hair keratin protein which results in micro- and macro-structural changes and, in turn, changes fibre physical properties: the consequences of these are generally perceived by the consumer as damage.

[0006] Combing and brushing of hair mechanically abrades the fibre cuticle making this rougher and increasing the frictional characteristics. Hair lightening, such as bleaching, or colouring treatments generally involve an oxidative step to break down melanin and develop the new hair colour, but these processes also oxidise the hair fibre protein and the endogenous lipids. These reactions alter the number and types of covalent and non- covalent bonds within the fibre, and impact the thermal stability and mechanical properties of the hair. The internal protein of damaged hair typically has a reduced denaturation temperature compared to that of virgin hair.

[0007] Various organic molecules and combinations thereof have been suggested for use in the treatment of damaged hair.

[0008] WO 2004054526 describes hair treatment compositions for the care and repair of damaged hair, and for improving hair manageability, comprising a disaccharide, in particular trehalose.

[0009] US4975274 (Chesbrough-Pond’s) discloses the use of glutamic acid and water soluble salts thereof as an additive for water-containing hair care products so that the hair when treated with such products will have a desirable flexibility and resistance to breakage. A specific hair care composition consists of: Water (53.70 %), Sodium Lauryl 2 EO Sulfate (38 %), Cocodiethanolamide (3 %) Cocoamidopropyl betaine (1.75 %), Disodium EDTA (0.05 %), Methylparaben (0.15 %), Propylparaben (0.10 %), Citric Acid (0.25 %), Colorant (0.065 %), DMDM Hydantoin (0.30 %), Perfume (0.50 %), Monosodium Glutamate (2.00 %) and Sodium chloride (0.17 %).

[0010] We have now surprisingly found that the inclusion of a glutamate salt, preferably monosodium glutamate, in a conditioner at a pH of less than 4.1, provides damage repair to hair, particularly repair of the internal protein.

[0011] DEFINITION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] In a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a hair conditioner composition, comprising: i) 0.2 to 2.5 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt %, of a glutamate salt, preferably sodium glutamate, most preferably monosodium glutamate; and ii) a conditioning gel phase comprising:

[0013] (a) a cationic conditioning surfactant; and

[0014] (b) a fatty alcohol; wherein the pH is in the range of from 2 to less than 4.1, preferably 2 to 4, most preferably from 3.2 to 4, and wherein the composition is preferably free from parabens.

[0015] A second aspect of the invention provides a method of repairing damaged hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a composition of the first aspect. The method results in an increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair. The increase in denaturation temperature is compared with the same composition that does not comprise a glutamate salt.

[0016] Preferably the method comprises an additional step of rinsing the composition from the hair. The method preferably additionally comprises the step of leaving the composition on the hair for 2 seconds to 20 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 3 minutes, most preferably 20 seconds to 1 minute, and then rinsing the composition from the hair.

[0017] In an alternative embodiment, the composition may be left in the hair until the next washing event. This is particularly suitable where the composition is a leave-on conditioner.

[0018] Preferably, the method additionally comprises the step of repeating the application of the composition to the hair. Preferably, the step of repeating the application of the composition to the hair is made during a later treatment and is repeated 1 to 10 times. This provides progressive increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal proteins of the hair.

[0019] The composition is preferably applied to the hair multiple times, to give progressive damage repair, that increases when hair, that has been previously treated with the composition, is treated with the composition again . This is preferably an increase in the denaturation temperature of the protein. In this way, it is possible to increase the denaturation temperature of the protein of damaged hair, preferably bleached hair, to that of virgin hair, preferably higher than that of virgin hair.

[0020] Hair damage can be measured in different ways. This invention focusses on the structural integrity of hair cortex proteins, as can be determined by Differential Scanning Calorimetry, single-fibre mechanical testing and numerous other methods. The damage repair is preferably an increase in the denaturation temperature of the internal protein of hair.

[0021] The Hair

[0022] The hair can be virgin hair or damaged hair.

[0023] It is reported in “Thermal Analysis of Human Hair and Keratin” by J. Feughelman, published in the Journal of Applied Polymer Science, that the denaturation temperature of virgin hair, as measured by DSC, is from 150 to 160. In the context of this invention, by virgin hair is meant hair that has not been subjected to intensive physical and / or chemical treatment, for example, bleaching, dyeing, perming, intensive heat treatment and strong and / or prolonged exposure to solar radiation. Hair that has been subjected to such intensive physical and / or chemical treatment has a lower denaturation temperature of the protein compared with the same hair before being subjected to intensive physical and / or chemical treatment. We have found a typical reduction in denaturation temperature of our virgin switches following intensive physical and / or chemical treatment of about 1.5 to 3.5 %.

[0024] Virgin hair includes hair that has sustained low levels of damage during the natural hair life cycle. By low levels of damage is meant damage where the denaturation temperature of the protein is not significantly reduced, for example estimated to be by between 0.5 to 2 %, preferably 0.5 to 1.5 % reduced compared to theoretically completely undamaged hair.

[0025] Sources of low level damage likely include but are not necessarily limited to washing, brushing, combing and limited solar photo-degradation for example.

[0026] The hair is preferably damaged hair, where the denaturation temperature of the internal protein of the hair is reduced compared to hair that has not been damaged, for example subjected to intensive physical and / or chemical treatment.

[0027] The damage may be caused by mechanical means, for example combing and brushing, chemical means, exposure to heat, environmental means such as sunlight and exposure to damaging energy sources, for example light such as UV light. Chemical means includes treatments that involve an oxidative step, for example, hair lightening, such as bleaching, and colouring treatments, preferably chemical means, exposure to heat, environmental means such as sunlight and exposure to damaging energy sources, for example light such as UV light. Chemical means includes treatments that involve an oxidative step, for example, hair lightening, such as bleaching, and colouring treatments. The hair is preferably subjected to damage multiple times.

[0028] Preferably the hair is damaged by oxidative colouring, bleaching or exposure to UV light. Most preferably the hair is bleached more preferably bleached multiple times. P0001169WC

[0029] - 5 -

[0030] GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0031] Many raw materials contain, what are known in the industry as, carry-over ingredients. These are often used for example as processing aids, preservatives, emulsifiers, etc. These carry-over ingredients are present in very small quantities (for example less than

[0032] 5 0.05 wt % of the total composition) and perform a function for the raw material (for example as an emulsifier for a silicone). Carry-over ingredients are present in the full compositions at levels that are too low to have a material effect on the properties of the composition. They are not intended to be part of the invention.

[0033] 10 The Glutamate Salt

[0034] The composition for use in the present invention comprises a glutamate salt.

[0035] Preferred examples include sodium glutamate, potassium glutamate, magnesium diglutamate, calcium diglutamate, ammonium glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0036] 15

[0037] More preferably the glutamate salt is sodium glutamate, most preferably monosodium glutamate.

[0038] The amount of glutamate salt is 0.2 to 2.5 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt %, by weight

[0039] 20 of the total composition.

[0040] Compositions for use in the method of the invention are formulated as conditioners for the treatment of hair. Preferred conditioners comprise a conditioning lamellar gel phase.

[0041] 25 Hair conditioner compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of rinse off conditioners, leave-on treatments, masks, serums and lotions.

[0042] Rinse off compositions for use in the invention are typically left on wet hair for 20 seconds to 2 minutes, preferably for 1 minute to 2 minutes, before being rinsed off.

[0043] 30

[0044] Hair masks for use in the present invention are treatments that are typically left on the hair for 3 to 10 minutes, preferably from 3 to 5 minutes, more preferably 4 to 5 minutes, before being rinsed off. Leave-on compositions for use in the invention are typically applied to the hair and left on the hair for more than 10 minutes, and preferably are applied to the hair after washing and not rinsed out until the next wash.

[0045] The spray and serum can be used pre- or post-wash or as a treatment between washes.

[0046] The cationic conditioning surfactant

[0047] Conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more cationic conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

[0048] Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactants have the formula N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4), wherein R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ci to C30) alkyl or benzyl.

[0049] Preferably, one, two or three of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (C4 to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4group or groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl.

[0050] More preferably, one or two of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ce to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0051] Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad 2HT / 75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium P0001169WG

[0052] - 7 - chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is

[0053] 5 cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant.

[0054] Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in the invention, either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and (ii) below:

[0055] (i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I): in which R1is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms,

[0056] R2and R3are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and

[0057] (ii) an acid.

[0058] As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

[0059] Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which

[0060] R1is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 11 to about 24 carbon atoms,

[0061] R2and R3are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4.

[0062] 30

[0063] Preferably, R2and R3are methyl or ethyl groups. Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. an ethylene or propylene group.

[0064] Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid-amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE S-13 available from Index (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename AMIDOAMINE S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE series available from Scher (Clifton New Jersey, USA).

[0067] Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium cationic surfactant. Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate all the amidoamine present, i.e. at a level which is at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamine present in the composition.

[0069] Also suitable are diesterquats, for example those selected from a diesterquat that comprises branched, saturated chains, a diesterquat that comprises unbranched, unsaturated chains, and mixtures thereof. The quaternary amine head groups may be trimethyl amines or one of them or either of them may have ethylene groups. Preferred counter ions include chloride and mesylate.

[0070] In conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1 to 5% by total weight of cationic conditioning surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The fatty alcohol

[0072] Conditioners of the invention will typically also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0073] Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

[0074] The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners of the invention will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 7%, most preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 1 :1 to 1 :10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8, optimally from 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers. P0001169WC

[0075] - 10 -

[0076] Other ingredients

[0077] The conditioners of the invention preferably comprise a preservative. The preservative is selected from sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, capryl glycol, benzyl alcohol, sorbate salts, hexanediol, DMDMH and mixtures thereof.

[0078] 5

[0079] A chelating agent, such as EDTA may also be used.

[0080] The conditioners of the invention preferably comprise a pH adjuster.

[0081] 10 The pH adjuster may be selected from selected from lactic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferred pH adjusters are selected from citric acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] 15

[0084] The pH of the composition is in the range of from 2 to less than 4.1 , preferably 2 to 4, most preferably from 3.2 to 4.

[0085] Hair compositions according to the invention will preferably also contain one or more silicone

[0086] 20 conditioning agents.

[0087] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions such as those formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl

[0088] 25 end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone.

[0089] The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D3,2) in the composition of the invention ranging from 0.01 to 20 micrometer, more preferably from

[0090] 30 0.2 to 10 micrometer.

[0091] A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (D3,2) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer. P0001169WG

[0092] - 11 -

[0093] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions of the invention are available from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such preformed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a

[0094] 5 suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, or mixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions.

[0095] 10

[0096] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2- 1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions / microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning)

[0097] 15 and SME253 (from GE Silicones).

[0098] Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in WO03 / 094874. In such materials, the silicone

[0099] 20 emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described above. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0100] HO(CH2CH2O)x(CH(CH3)CH2O)y(CH2CH2O)x H

[0101] 25 wherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25 or more.

[0102] Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0103] 30

[0104] (HO(CH2CH2O)a(CH(CH3)CH2O)b)2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3))b(OCH2CH2)aOH)2 wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value of b is 6 or more. Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used.

[0105] The above described silicone emulsions will generally be present in a composition of the invention at levels of from 0.05 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 5%, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by total weight of silicone based on the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Further Ingredients

[0107] A composition of the invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, , pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0108] The composition is preferably free from parabens. The compositions of the invention preferably comprise a preservative. The preservative is preferably selected from sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, capryl glycol, benzyl alcohol, sorbate salts, hexanediol, DMDMH and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, capryl glycol, benzyl alcohol, sorbate salts, hexanediol, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably the composition comprises sodium benzoate.

[0109] Hair treatment compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human subject, either in rinse-off or leave-on compositions, for the treatment of damaged hair.

[0110] The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Example, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.

[0111] EXAMPLES

[0112] The Hair

[0113] Virgin: The hair used in the following examples was dark brown European hair tresses 5 grams and 25 cm long.

[0114] Bleached: Virgin hair tresses were bleached according to the following protocol. P0001169WC

[0115] - 13 -

[0116] Each switch of hair was bleached for 30 min with Universal Bleach Powder (ex Bright International Corp) and Wella Welloxon 12 Perfect 40 Vol Creme Developer (ex Salons Direct) (12g of Powder mixed with 24g Creme Peroxide per switch- a ratio of Creme Peroxide: Powder 2:1). Hair was then rinsed with water for 2 minutes and dried. This procedure was repeated on the same hair to produce twice bleached hair.

[0117] The double-bleached hair was dialysed prior to the experiments in 5L of distilled water over a period of 72 hours, and the water was changed 3 times over this period. After dialysing, the hair tresses were left to dry overnight in a controlled environment (20°C and 50% relative humidity).

[0118] Compositions 1 to 4 are conditioners in accordance with the invention.

[0119] A and B are comparative examples.

[0120] The amount of MSG in composition 4 and the amount of glutamic acid in comparative B are molar matched.

[0121] Table 1 : Ingredients (wt%) of conditioners 1 and 2 in accordance with the invention P0001169WC

[0122] - 14 -

[0123] Table 2: Ingredients (wt%) of conditioners 3 and 4 in accordance with the invention and comparative conditioners A and B

[0124] Silicone 1: Xiameter™ MEM-7134 emulsion, ex Dow

[0125] Silicone 2: Dowsil CE-1607 ex Dow, as described in WO2019 / 086311 and family members thereof

[0126] Treatment of the Hair

[0127] Hair (double-bleached) was treated with the above compositions using the following method:

[0128] 10 Hair was pre-washed with a simple cleansing shampoo: 0.1 ml / 1g hair was applied and lathered for 30 seconds followed by 30 seconds rinse in tap water.

[0129] The hair was then treated with the conditioner compositions as follows: 0.2ml / 1 g hair applied to hair for 60 seconds followed by 60 seconds rinse in tap water.

[0130] 15 P0001169WG

[0131] - 15 -

[0132] The hair tresses were then left to dry overnight at 20°C, 50% relative humidity.

[0133] Measurement of Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC)

[0134] In order to prepare hair samples for Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), 1 inch of hair was cut from each tress. Hair was then chopped into 1-2 mm sections.

[0135] Measurements were performed using a Mettler-Toledo DSC (with auto-sampler). 7-10 mg samples of dry, finely chopped hair was placed in the 'Medium Pressure Stainless Steel DSC Pans' and accurately weighed. 50 microlitres of deionised water was then added to each sample after which the pan lid was put on and the pans crimped shut to provide a hermetic seal. Pans were equilibrated for a minimum of 24 h ahead of any measurement to allow the hair to fully hydrate. The DSC was programmed to first heat each sample to 100 °C for 3 min and then to warm them further from 100 to 180 °C at a constant rate of 5 °C min'.

[0136] Table 3: Mean denaturation temperatures and change in denaturation temperature for treatment over successive five wash cycles for virgin and bleached hair treated with Compositions 3 and 4 in accordance with the invention and Comparative Compositions A and B.

[0137] Same letters indicate no significant difference.

[0138] It will be seen that bleached hair treated with Compositions 3 and 4 comprising MSG in accordance with the invention provide a higher increase in the denaturation temperature after 5 wash cycles, than bleached hair treated with Compositions A (no MSG) and B (comprising glutamic acid).

Claims

CLAIMS1. A hair conditioner composition, comprising: i) 0.2 to 2.5 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt %, of a glutamate salt, preferably sodium glutamate, most preferably monosodium glutamate; and ii) a conditioning gel phase comprising:(a) a cationic conditioning surfactant; and(b) a fatty alcohol; wherein the pH is in the range of from 2 to less than 4.1.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the glutamate salt is selected from sodium glutamate, potassium glutamate, magnesium diglutamate, calcium diglutamate, ammonium glutamate and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 2 wherein the glutamate salt is sodium glutamate.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the sodium glutamate is monosodium glutamate.

5. The composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the amount of glutamate salt is from - 0.5 to 2 wt %, by weight of the total composition.

6. The composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the pH is in the range of from 2 to 4, preferably from 3.2 to 4.

7. The composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the cationic conditioning surfactant having the formula N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4), wherein R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ci to C30) alkyl or benzyl.

8. The composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the composition is selected from a conditioner, leave-on treatment, mask, serum and a lotion.

9. The composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the composition is free from parabens.

10. The composition as claimed in any preceding claim, which comprises a preservative selected from sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, capryl glycol, benzyl alcohol, sorbate salts, hexanediol, DMDMH and mixtures thereof.

11. A method of repairing damaged hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 10.

12. Method as claimed in claim 11 , wherein the hair is bleached.

13. Method as claimed in claim 11 or claim 12, wherein the composition is applied to the hair multiple times, to give progressive damage repair, preferably a progressive increase in the denaturation temperature of the protein.