Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising a high azelaic acid content

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising: (i) at least 5% by weight of azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof. relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) at least one apolar oil, (iii) at least one polyol of formula (I), (iv) less than 1% by weight of a polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, or said composition is free of polar oil. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, or to the use thereof for caring for the skin.

Description

Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising a high azelaic acid content

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for keratin materials, in particular of skin care.

[0002] In particular, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0003] (i) at least 5% by weight of azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0004] (ii) at least one apolar oil,

[0005] (iii) at least one polyol of formula (I) below:

[0006] (I)

[0007] wherein

[0008] R1represents a hydroxyl,

[0009] R2represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,

[0010] R3represents a hydrogen or -OC3H5(OH)2or a hydroxyl or a methyl,

[0011] R4represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,

[0012] it being understood that at least two of the groups R1, R2, R3or R4are hydroxyls, and

[0013] (iv) less than 1% by weight of a polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, or said composition is free of polar oil.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, or to the use thereof for caring for the skin.Prior art

[0015] Sebum constitutes an agent for moisturizing the epidermis. The shininess of the skin, which is generally linked to a high level of sebum secretion, is a problem which essentially affects adolescents but which may also occur in adults, especially as a consequence of hyperproduction of androgens or as a consequence of external factors such as pollution. Oily, shiny or glistening skin is characterized by an exaggerated secretion and excretion of sebum, generally leading to a sebum level of greater than 200 µg / cm2 measured on the forehead.

[0016] Obtaining a matt effect on the skin is highly desired by users with combination or oily skin. Indeed, the reflections caused by an excess of sebum on the surface of the skin are generally considered to be unattractive. Besides leading to glistening or shiny skin, the overproduction of sebum may also lead to esthetic inconveniences; these esthetic skin defects or skin imperfections may in particular be a non-uniformity of the skin complexion, an increase in the size of the follicular orifices or dilated pores, blackheads, comedones and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.

[0017] Azelaic acid is an active agent known in the literature for treating disorders associated with oily and / or acneic skin. However, azelaic acid remains difficult to formulate due to its propensity to recrystallize after having been solubilized in formulations comprising water, whether they are essentially aqueous or in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. The solubilization of azelaic acid over time and its random recrystallization (change in shape of the crystals, increase in the size of the crystals, formation of clusters of crystals) in a composition containing it then leads to poorer distribution of the active agent in the formulation, greater variability of the dose of active agent delivered at each use by the consumer and a problem of microscopic and macroscopic stability.

[0018] Consequently, there is thus still a need for compositions which make it possible to stabilize azelaic acid at high concentration, especially by preventing the change in crystal shape, the increase in crystal size and the formation of clusters of azelaic acid crystals over time, in particular at ambient temperature for several weeks or even months or under accelerated aging conditions at 55°C for one week.

[0019] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products of which the design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward tackling global challenges.

[0020] It is thus proving essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.

[0021] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturality index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.Disclosure of the invention

[0022] The aim of the present invention is to solve the abovementioned technical problems.

[0023] Specifically, the inventors have now discovered that a composition in the form of an emulsion (O / W) comprising 10% by weight of azelaic acid, an apolar oil, a polyol of formula (I), and less than 1% or 0% by weight of a polar oil makes it possible to disperse the azelaic acid rather than to solubilize it in the composition, in order to prevent the change in crystal shape, the increase in crystal size and the formation of clusters of azelaic acid crystals when this composition is stored under accelerated aging conditions, in particular at 55°C for one week.Summary of the invention

[0024] As mentioned above, the present invention thus relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0025] (i) at least 5% by weight of azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof,

[0026] (ii) at least one apolar oil,

[0027] (iii) at least one polyol of formula (I) below:

[0028] (I)

[0029] wherein

[0030] R1represents a hydroxyl,

[0031] R2represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,

[0032] R3represents a hydrogen or -OC3H5(OH)2or a hydroxyl or a methyl,

[0033] R4represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,

[0034] it being understood that at least two of the groups R1, R2, R3or R4are hydroxyls, and

[0035] (iv) less than 1% by weight of a polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, or said composition is free of polar oil.

[0036] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for caring for the skin.

[0037] In addition, a subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects chosen from oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, blackheads, comedones and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.

[0038] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating acneic skin.

[0039] According to another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for caring for the skin.

[0040] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects or skin imperfections chosen from oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, blackheads, comedones and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.

[0041] Another aspect of the present invention is the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating acneic skin.

[0042] According to another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention as an anti-imperfection composition.Detailed description

[0043] The term "cosmetic" means a composition that is compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages, i.e. a composition that has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the additional ingredients such that the advantageous properties of the combination according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0044] The term "keratin materials" is in particular intended to denote the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and skin appendages.

[0045] The term "the skin" means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, the scalp, the neckline, the neck, the arms and forearms, the back, the legs, the eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, the hands, the wrists and the ankles, or even more preferably the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, the nose, the cheeks and the chin), the neckline, the neck and the back.

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anti-imperfection composition" means a composition for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects or skin imperfections, in particular oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, blackheads, comedones and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.

[0047] The pH of the composition according to the invention is preferably between 4.5 and 6.0, more preferentially between 4.5 and 5.5, even better still between 4.6 and 4.8, such as 4.7.

[0048] As used herein, the terms "treating" and "treatment" are intended to denote the alleviation of the symptoms associated with a specific disorder or condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms and also the complete disappearance of the disorder or condition in question.

[0049] In the context of the present invention, the terms "preventing" and "prevention" denote the reduction, to a lesser degree, of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.Azelaic acid

[0050] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof,

[0051] The term "organic or mineral base salts" means salts of bases or alkaline agents as defined below, such as alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines, or else salts of "basic" amino acids such as lysine or arginine.

[0052] Azelaic acid, or nonanedioic acid, having the empirical formula C9H16O4, is the compound of formula (II) below:

[0053] (II)

[0054] Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from cereals (wheat, rye and barley) and / or extracted from plants, for instance tall oil acid (INCI name). It has excellent moisturizing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, allowing it to combat skin irregularities such as acne problems.

[0055] Azelaic acid is typically in the form of a white powder.

[0056] Mention may be made in particular of the azelaic acid sold under the name Azelaic Acid by Corum.

[0057] Said azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof, as described previously, is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 8% by weight, more preferentially of at least 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Said azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof, as described previously, is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially ranging from 8% to 12% by weight and even better still ranging from 9% to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Apolar oil

[0059] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar oil.

[0060] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" denotes a water-immiscible compound which is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0061] The term "immiscible" is understood to mean that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is carried out by eye or by means of a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (by way of indication, 200 to 1000 rev / min), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.

[0062] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0063] According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapor pressure is less than 5 Pa; more particularly, their flash point is less than 90°C and their vapor pressure is greater than 1 Pa; even more preferentially, their flash point is less than or equal to 60°C and their vapor pressure is greater than 5 Pa; and more preferentially still, their flash point is less than 60°C and their vapor pressure is greater than 100 Pa.

[0064] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon oil thus consequently does not comprise any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0065] The term "apolar hydrocarbon oil" means a hydrocarbon oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably nonaromatic (also called a hydrocarbon).

[0066] Said at least one apolar oil, which is preferably nonvolatile, is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, even better still in a content ranging from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Volatile apolar oils

[0067] Advantageously, said at least one apolar oil is a volatile apolar oil.

[0068] Among the volatile apolar oils, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon apolar oils containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, more particularly:branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) such as C8-C9 isoparaffin, C13-C16 isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, alone or as mixtures, preferably isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example sold by Ineos, more preferentially isododecane;linear alkanes, for example linear C6-C16 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 by Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), such as Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF;mixtures of linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, such as the product sold under the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® by BioSynthIs;volatile, nonaromatic, cyclic C5-C12 alkanes;and mixtures thereof.

[0069] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is chosen from C6-C16 alkanes and in particular alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as C13-C16 isoparaffin, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is chosen from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and mixtures thereof, preferably comprising isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0071] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes. This mixture is in particular known under the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® sold by BioSynthIs.

[0072] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF.

[0073] According to one embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is chosen from preferably branched C8-C16 alkanes and preferably isododecane.

[0074] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is chosen from preferably linear C8-C16 alkanes, and more preferentially are chosen from C9-C12 alkanes such as dodecane, as INCI C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® sold by BioSynthIs, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0075] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile apolar oil is chosen from linear or branched C8-C16 alkanes, preferably mixtures of linear C8-C16 alkanes and branched C8-C16 alkanes, said mixture preferably containing at least isododecane or Vegelight Silk® or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.Nonvolatile apolar oils

[0076] The term "nonvolatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0077] The nonvolatile oil or oils of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural origin.

[0078] Advantageously, said at least one apolar oil is a nonvolatile apolar oil.

[0079] Among the nonvolatile oils, mention may be made of nonvolatile hydrocarbon apolar oils, which may be chosen in particular from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance:liquid paraffin,squalane, such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris, isoeicosane,mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, particularly of C14-C30 and more particularly of C15-C28 saturated linear hydrocarbons, such as the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: (C15-C19)alkane, (C18-C21)alkane, (C21-C28)alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC,hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, such as for example products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene,hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, preferably hydrogenated, polyisobutenes, such as for example nonvolatile compounds of the Parleam® range, sold by Nippon Oil Fats,hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, such as for example nonvolatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil,decene / butene copolymers and butene / isobutene copolymers,and mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the apolar oil is a nonvolatile apolar oil, more preferentially chosen from i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane, iii) mixtures of saturated linear, preferably C14-C30 and more preferentially C15-C28, hydrocarbons, such as mixtures of saturated linear C15-C19 alkanes, iv) and mixtures thereof.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the apolar oil is a liquid paraffin.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the apolar oil is squalane.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the apolar oil is a mixture of saturated linear, preferably C14-C30 and more preferentially C15-C28, hydrocarbons, such as a mixture of saturated linear C15-C19 alkanes.Polyol

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol of formula (I) below:

[0085] (I)

[0086] wherein

[0087] R1represents a hydroxyl,

[0088] R2represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,

[0089] R3represents a hydrogen or -OC3H5(OH)2or a hydroxyl or a methyl,

[0090] R4represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,

[0091] it being understood that at least two of the groups R1, R2, R3or R4are hydroxyls.

[0092] Advantageously, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Advantageously, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from glycerol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Advantageously, R1, R2and R3represent a hydroxyl, and R4represents a hydrogen; the compound of formula (I) is glycerol.

[0095] Advantageously, R1and R2represent a hydroxyl, R3represents -OC3H5(OH)2, and R4represents a hydrogen; the compound of formula (I) is diglycerol.

[0096] Advantageously, R1and R3represent a hydroxyl, and R2andR4represent a hydrogen; the compound of formula (I) is 1,3-propanediol.

[0097] Advantageously, R1and R2represent a hydroxyl, and R3and R4represent a hydrogen; the compound of formula (I) is propylene glycol.

[0098] Advantageously, R1and R4 represent a hydroxyl, and R2and R3represent a hydrogen; the compound of formula (I) is butylene glycol.

[0099] In one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight of pentylene glycol, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, even better still less than 0.01% by weight of pentylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free (0%) of pentylene glycol.

[0101] Said polyol of formula (I) is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 13% by weight and even better still ranging from 4% to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Polar oil

[0102] Said composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of a polar oil, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, even better still less than 0.0001% by weight of a polar oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, or said composition is free (0%) of polar oil.

[0103] The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" or “polar oil” denotes hydrocarbon oils mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions or atoms chosen from oxygen, fluorine or silicon atoms.

[0104] It is expressly understood that within the scope of the present invention, bisabolol and isononyl isononanoate is encompassed by the definition of the term "polar hydrocarbon oil" or “polar oil”.

[0105] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0106] The term "fluoro oil" denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0107] Among the volatile polar oils, mention may be made in particular of:short-chain esters (containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R’1-O-C(O)-O-R’2 wherein R’1 and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably, R’1 and R’2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the carbonate hydrocarbon oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate;volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 wherein R1 and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether and dicapryl ether, most particularly dicaprylyl ether;volatile silicone oils comprising in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0108] According to one embodiment, the volatile oil or oils b) comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably chosen from dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the reference DM-Fluid-2cs sold by Shin-Etsu or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane such as the reference Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane sold by Dow Chemical.

[0109] Among the nonvolatile polar oils, mention may be made in particular of:nonvolatile fluoro oils, which may notably be chosen from among fluorinated polyethers, and also from the fluorosilicone oils and the fluoro silicones as described in document EP-A-847752;nonvolatile silicone oils, which may notably be chosen from the nonvolatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof. These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or as mixtures;nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oils, which may be chosen from:saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof;triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from C18 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; by way of example, mention may notably be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; plant oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, groundnut oil, coconut oil, argan oil, kaya oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula R-C(O)-OR’ wherein R-C(O)-O- represents a carboxylic acid residue including from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. As examples of such esters, mention may be made for example of isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate;hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate;esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name); andmixtures thereof;nonvolatile carbonate oils which may be chosen from the carbonates of formula R8-O-C(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C4 to C12 and preferentially C6 to C10 alkyl chain; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), sold under the name Cetiol CC® by BASF, bis(2-ethylhexyl) carbonate, sold under the name Tegosoft DEC® by Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 AII from BASF), dibutyl carbonate, dineopentyl carbonate, dipentyl carbonate, dineoheptyl carbonate, diheptyl carbonate, diisononyl carbonate or dinonyl carbonate, and preferably dioctyl carbonate;nonvolatile "ether oils" of formula R1-O-R2 wherein R1 and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. As cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Among the nonvolatile ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference Cetiol OE sold by BASF.

[0110] In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio Rx[total mass concentration of azelaic acid and / or salts thereof and / or solvates thereof / total mass concentration of polar solvent(s)] is at least 0.130 and preferably at least 0.134; it being understood that the mass concentration of polar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the mixture of solvents a) water, and b) polyol(s) of formula (I), and c) polar oil(s) when the polar oil(s) is(are) present in the composition.

[0111] In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio Rx[total mass concentration of azelaic acid and / or salts thereof and / or solvates thereof / total mass concentration of polar solvent(s)] is between 0.130 and 0.15, preferably between 0.134 and 0.14; it being understood that the mass concentration of polar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the mixture of solvents a) water, and b) polyol(s) of formula (I), and c) polar oil(s) when the polar oil(s) is(are) present in the composition.

[0112] In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio Ry[total mass concentration of apolar solvent(s) / total mass concentration of polar solvent(s)] is at least 0.025, preferably at least 0.03; it being understood that the mass concentration of polar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the mixture of solvents a) water, and b) polyol(s) of formula (I), and c) polar oil(s) when the polar oil(s) is(are) present in the composition; and it being understood that the mass concentration of apolar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the apolar oil(s) present in the composition.

[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio Ry[total mass concentration of apolar solvent(s) / total mass concentration of polar solvent(s)] is between 0.025 and 0.06, preferably between 0.03 and 0.05; it being understood that the mass concentration of polar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the mixture of solvents a) water, and b) polyol(s) of formula (I), and c) polar oil(s) when the polar oil(s) is(are) present in the composition; and it being understood that the mass concentration of apolar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the apolar oil(s) present in the composition.Additional ingredients

[0114] In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional ingredients.

[0115] The composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvent(s) other than the abovementioned polyols of formula (I).

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 50% by weight of water, in particular at least 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0117] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 50% to 71% by weight, even better still from 60% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Among the organic solvents that are water-miscible (at ambient temperature, 20-25°C), mention may be made of alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

[0119] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] The composition used in the context of the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0121] The proportion of fatty substances, preferably of oil, of the emulsion may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight and even better still from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a coemulsifier. Preferably, the emulsifier used in the context of the invention is nonionic. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately.

[0123] The nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from:(poly)glycerol esters comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol unit(s) and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acid(s):monoesters of glycerol and of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acid; mention may for example be made of glyceryl oleate such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Monomuls 90-O 18; glyceryl stearate such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Cutina GMS V; glyceryl caprylate / caprate such as for example that sold by Stepan under the name Stepan Mild GCC; glyceryl laurate such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Monomuls 90-L 12;monoesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, preferentially C12-C18, fatty acid; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Arlacel 1690; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate such as for example that sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Isolan GI 34; polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate such as for example that sold by Aarhuskarlshamn under the name Akoline PGPR; polyglyceryl-2 oleate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-17B; polyglyceryl-2 caprylate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-81B; polyglyceryl-2 laurate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-12D;diesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24 and preferably C8-C18 fatty acids; mention may be made in particular of polyglyceryl-2 distearate, such as for example that sold by Nihon Emulsion under the name Emalex PGSA, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, such as for example that sold by ABITEC Corporation under the name Caprol 6G2S or that sold by Gattefosse under the name Plurol Stearique WL 1009;triesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acids; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-5 trioleate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft A-173E; polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft A-143E;pentaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acids; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-185S;hexaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acids; polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft A-186E;heptaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acids; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-177S;decaesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acids; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-10 decastearate such as for example that sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S;polyesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty acids; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate such as for example that sold by Nikkol under the name Hexaglyn PR-15; polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Crester PR;esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of solid wax chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, beeswax and shellac wax, preferably an ester of polyglycerol comprising 3 glycerol units and of beeswax, for instance the product sold by Jan Dekker International under the name Cera Bellina;esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of hydroxylated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C12-C24, fatty polyacids, such as diesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of hydroxylated fatty polyacids, in particular comprising from 5 to 25 hydroxylated C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from 6 to 15 hydroxylated C16-C20 fatty acids; mention may in particular be made of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Dehymuls PGPH;ethers of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of C6-C24, preferably C8-C18, fatty alcohols; mention may for example be made of polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether such as for example that sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane NB; polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether such as for example that sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane NC;esters of sorbitol and / or of sorbitan and of linear or branched, preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, preferably C10-C22, preferentially C12-C18, fatty acid(s); mention may in particular be made of sorbitan tristearate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Span 65; sorbitan sesquioleate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Arlacel 83 V; sorbitan isostearate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Arlacel 987; sorbitan oleate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V; sorbitan stearate such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Dehymuls SMS; sorbitan laurate such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Dehymuls SML, sorbitan palmitate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Span 40;esters of sucrose and of a C12-C18 fatty acid; mention may in particular be made of sucrose polystearate such as for example that sold by Sisterna under the name Sisterna SP10-C; sucrose distearate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Crodesta F-10;esters of methyl glucose and of a linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acid, such as for example methyl glucose isostearate, such as for example that sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Isolan IS; polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, such as for example that sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Tego Care 450;ethers of glucose and of a C12-C22 fatty alcohol, such as for example cetearyl glucoside (and) cetearyl alcohol, such as for example that sold by Cognis under the name Emulgade PL 68 / 50;esters of glycol or polyethylene glycol and of a C12-C22, preferably C16-C18, fatty acid, such as glycol stearate, such as for example that sold by Croda under the name EGMS N / E; PEG-2 stearate such as for example that sold by Croda under the name Cithrol DEGMS N / E, PEG-100 stearate;alkyl polyglycosides of general formula (III):

[0124] R(O)(G)' (III)

[0125] wherein the radical R is a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C12-C22, alkyl radical, G is a saccharide residue and x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferentially from 1.1 to 2.

[0126] The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More preferentially, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.

[0127] It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkyl polyglycoside may be in α or β isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.

[0128] It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkyl polysaccharides, which may differ from one another in terms of the nature of the borne alkyl unit and / or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain.

[0129] In particular, mention may be made of alkyl polyglycosides containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, for example, of decyl glucoside, such as C9 / C11-alkyl polyglucoside (1,4) as an aqueous 40% solution, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals, 85 / 10 / 5 C10 / C12 / C14-alkyl polyglucoside (1,4) as an aqueous 55% solution, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by SEPPIC; and caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as 50 / 50 C8 / C10-alkyl polyglucoside (2) as an aqueous 60% solution, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110® by SEPPIC.

[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglycoside may be used as a mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0131] In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to use together a fatty alcohol and an alkyl polyglycoside of which the alkyl part is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol.

[0132] Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov®, such as the following mixtures:

[0133] - cetylstearyl alcohol / coco-glucoside - Montanov 82®

[0134] - arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside - Montanov 802®

[0135] - myristyl alcohol / myristyl glucoside - Montanov 14®

[0136] - cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl glucoside - Montanov 68®

[0137] - C14-C22 alcohol / C12-C20 alkyl glucoside - Montanov L®

[0138] - coco-alcohol / coco-glucoside - Montanov S®

[0139] - isostearyl alcohol / isostearyl glucoside - Montanov WO 18®and mixtures thereof.

[0140] The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, any additive normally used in the field in question, for example chosen from gums, resins, dispersants, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents other than azelaic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] Among the gelling polymers, mention may be made in particular of polymers bearing a sulfonic group or polysaccharides such as native or modified starches.

[0143] The term "polymer bearing a sulfonic group" means a poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymer, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably a homopolymer or copolymer of a monomer bearing a sulfonic group, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0144] These are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable polymers. The polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention are homopolymers or copolymers that can be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, which may be in free form or in partially or completely neutralized form.

[0145] Preferably, the polymers bearing a sulfonic group which are used in accordance with the invention can be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, or mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" is intended to denote polymers which have been completely or almost completely neutralized, that is to say at least 90% neutralized.

[0146] The polymers bearing a sulfonic group which can be used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and even more preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g / mol.

[0147] The monomers bearing a sulfonic group of the polymer which can be used in the composition of the invention are in particular chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C1-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or completely neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers bearing a sulfonic group are chosen from (meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, such as for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid and 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also the partially or completely neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0150] When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0151] As crosslinking agents, mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols and allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0152] The degree of crosslinking generally varies from 0.01 to 10 mol%, and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol%, relative to the polymer.

[0153] Preferably, the polymer bearing a sulfonic group is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the salts thereof and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the polymer bearing a sulfonic group is chosen from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers more particularly preferred comprise, randomly distributed, units of general formula (IV) below:

[0155] (IV)

[0156] wherein X+denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+possibly being protons H+;

[0157] and crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefin double bonds.

[0158] The homopolymers used according to the invention and which are more particularly preferred comprise from 90% to 99.9% by weight and preferably from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (IV), and from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, of crosslinking units, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0159] The preferred homopolymers of this type are chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), or crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by Clariant.

[0160] The copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid can be chosen from:copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide, for example of Sepigel or Simulgel type sold in particular by SEPPIC. By way of nonlimiting examples of such copolymers, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked anionic acrylamide / 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers, in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC;copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of sodium acrylate, for instance the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by SEPPIC or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer);copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer);copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, which are optionally crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which bears the name 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate copolymer (25 EO) 80 / 20, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or else Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer as INCI name;and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Preferably, the polymer bearing a sulfonic group is a crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by Clariant.

[0162] The starch or starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers constituted of elemental units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).

[0163] The starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may originate from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruit. Thus, the starch or starches may originate from a plant source chosen from corn, pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably derived from corn.

[0164] Use may also be made of the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

[0165] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, of which the elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

[0166] The starches that can be used in the composition of the invention may be native or modified, in particular chemically modified, preferably via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat treatments.

[0167] The starch may be chosen from native starches. Mention may be made, for example, ofBEAUTE-BY-ROQUETTE ST005from Roquette.

[0168] Alternatively, when the starch is a modified starch, the chemical modification reactions may be performed in the following manner:pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);oxidation with strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxyalkyl (in particular carboxymethyl) or octenylsuccinic. Mention may be made in particular of starches modified with sodium carboxymethyl.

[0169] Monostarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)-O-St) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(O-St)2) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.

[0170] X particularly denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.

[0171] The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

[0172] Among the starch phosphates, it is in particular possible to distinguish hydroxypropylated starch phosphates, or compounds rich in starch phosphate, which is in particular hydroxypropylated, for instance the products sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized hydroxypropylated corn distarch phosphate).

[0173] When the starches are chemically modified via an esterification reaction, it is possible to obtain carboxyalkyl starches as indicated previously.

[0174] The carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxy(C1-C4)alkyl starch and more particularly carboxymethyl starches.

[0175] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K, Li, NH4, or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0176] Carboxyalkyl starches are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, especially by reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium.

[0177] The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly on carbon 1.

[0178] The degree of substitution preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the mean number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group (in the case in point ether for the carboxymethyl starches) per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.

[0179] The carboxyalkyl starches preferably comprise units having the following formula:

[0180] (V)

[0181] X denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine. Preferably, X denotes an ion Na+.

[0182] The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl starches.

[0183] The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably partially or completely crosslinked carboxyalkyl starches.

[0184] The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starches, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch, sold in particular under the name Primojel by DMV International. More than 95% of the particles of this starch have a diameter of less than 100 microns and more particularly less than 65 microns.

[0185] Alternatively, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches containing one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic type. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0186] The amphoteric starches are particularly chosen from the compounds having the following formulae:

[0187] (VI)

[0188] (VII)

[0189] (VIII)

[0190] (IX)

[0191] in which formulae:

[0192] St-O represents a starch molecule,

[0193] R, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

[0194] R', which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group,

[0195] n is an integer equal to 2 or 3.

[0196] M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

[0197] R" represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0198] These compounds are in particular described in patents US 5,455,340 and US 4,017,460.

[0199] Amphoteric starches that may be used in particular are starches of formula (VI) or (VII). Starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid are more particularly used, i.e. starches of formula (VI) or (VII) wherein R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Mention may be made in particular of the potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the reference Structure Solanace by National Starch.

[0200] Among the starches and derivatives that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of:the modified starch (amylopectin / amylose crosslinked by epichlorohydrin) sold under the trade name "Insoluble non-mucilaginous rice starch" by Remy,the native waxy corn starch (essentially amylopectin) sold under the trade name "Waxy Corn" by Blattmann,the modified and precooked wheat starch sold under the trade name "Midsol Krisp" by Midwest Grain Products,the modified and refined wheat starch sold under the trade name "Midsol Adhere" by Midwest Grain Products,the modified wheat starch powder sold under the trade name "Midsol 35" by Midwest Grain Products,the modified potato starch sold under the trade name "Perfectagel MPT" by Avebe,the product "Corn starch B" sold by Roquettes Freres, the product "Corn starch" sold by National Starch.

[0201] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate.

[0202] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

[0203] The additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] A composition used according to the invention can be provided in any presentation form normally used in the cosmetics field.

[0205] Thus, the composition may comprise any constituent usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0206] A composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0207] The composition according to the invention is preferably employed in the context of a use or of a process according to the invention, topically.

[0208] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As nonlimiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may be made in particular of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.Uses and processes

[0209] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for caring for the skin.

[0210] In addition, a subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects chosen from oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, blackheads, comedones and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.

[0211] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention, for preventing and / or treating acneic skin.

[0212] According to another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for caring for the skin.

[0213] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects or skin imperfections chosen from oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, blackheads, comedones and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.

[0214] Another aspect of the present invention is the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating acneic skin.

[0215] According to another one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition according to the invention as an anti-imperfection composition.

[0216] A skin may in particular be skin not exhibiting dermatological or pathological disorders, in other words healthy skin.

[0217] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0218] The cosmetic uses and processes of the invention are preferentially performed by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0219] Topical administration consists in externally applying cosmetic compositions to the skin according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0220] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention may be performed by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which may be formulated, for example, as a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or milk for removing makeup.

[0221] The application may be repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more, and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0222] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of stoppage, if necessary.

[0223] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0224] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

[0225] In addition, the expression "at least one" should be understood as being synonymous with "one or more", unless otherwise specified.

[0226] The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof.

[0227] In the examples, unless otherwise specified, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and is expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.Figures

[0228] : Evaluation of composition C1, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0229] : Evaluation of composition CC1, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0230] : Evaluation of composition CC2, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0231] : Evaluation of composition C2, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0232] : Evaluation of composition C3, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0233] : Evaluation of composition CC3, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0234] : Evaluation of composition C4, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0235] : Evaluation of composition C5, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.

[0236] : Evaluation of composition CC4, with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light.Example

[0237] The O / W emulsions according to the invention (C1 to C5) and outside the invention (CC1 to CC4) were produced and are detailed in tables 1 and 2 below according to the usual techniques for producing emulsions in the cosmetics field.

[0238] At t0 after production of said emulsions, a 100 ml sample of each emulsion was placed under accelerated aging conditions, namely in a FirLabo BioConcept incubator thermostated at 55°C for one week. These samples were then evaluated with a Leica DM2500 microscope, magnification x10, with white light and polarized light, after returning to ambient temperature, by depositing 2 µl of emulsion on a slide, covered with a coverslip, with a crushing for 10 s with a weight of 200 g.

[0239] The photographs were taken with a CCD-2MC camera to visualize the crystallization state of the product, and are presented in figures 1 to 9.

[0240] INCI nameC1CC1CC2C2C3AZELAIC ACID10.0010.0010.0010.0010.00C15-19 ALKANE3.00MINERAL OIL3.00DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE2.00SQUALANE3.00ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE2.00GLYCEROL2.002.502.502.002.00DIGLYCEROL2.002.502.502.002.00PROPANEDIOLPENTYLENE GLYCOL0.100.100.100.100.10SURFACTANT1.001.001.001.001.00FRAGRANCE0.07SOLVENT2.002.002.002.002.00FILLER1.001.001.001.001.00ACTIVE AGENT5.853.272.775.855.85pH ADJUSTER0.850.850.850.850.85SEQUESTRANT0.100.100.100.100.10POLYMER2.002.302.302.002.00WATER70.0372.3872.8870.1070.10Microscopic observationFew diamond-shaped crystals of small size (up to 71 µm), and a uniform crystal distributionRectangular crystals (96 µm) and much larger clusters (228 µm), and a very non-uniform crystal distributionLarger (up to 144 µm) diamond-shaped crystals, in greater number, and a non-uniform crystal distributionFew diamond-shaped crystals of small size (up to 77 µm), and a uniform crystal distributionFew diamond-shaped crystals of small size (up to 72 µm), and a uniform crystal distributionFigures12345ConclusionStability OKStability NOT OKStability NOT OKStability OKStability OK

[0241] INCI nameCC3C4C5CC4AZELAIC ACID3.0010.0010.0010.00C15-19 ALKANE2.002.003.002.00MINERAL OILDICAPRYLYL CARBONATESQUALANEISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATEGLYCEROL2.505.00DIGLYCEROL2.505.00PROPANEDIOL5.00PENTYLENE GLYCOL0.000.100.105.10SURFACTANT1.001.001.001.00FRAGRANCESOLVENT2.002.002.002.00FILLER1.001.001.001.00ACTIVE AGENT1.735.855.855.85pH ADJUSTER0.850.850.850.85SEQUESTRANT0.100.100.100.10POLYMER2.802.002.002.00WATER80.5270.1064.1070.10Microscopic observationDiamond-shaped crystals of large size (153 µm) and much larger clusters (283 µm), and a very non-uniform crystal distributionFew diamond-shaped crystals of small size (up to 73 µm), and a uniform crystal distributionFew diamond-shaped crystals of small size (up to 74 µm), and a uniform crystal distributionDiamond-shaped crystals of large size (125 µm) and larger clusters (162 µm), and a very non-uniform crystal distributionFigures6789ConclusionStability NOT OKStability OKStability OKStability NOT OK

[0242] Conclusion: The above results show that the compositions according to the invention (C1 to C4) comprising at least 5% of azelaic acid, an apolar oil (C12-C15 alkane, mineral oil, squalane), a specific polyol (glycerol, diglycerol, propanediol) are stable, unlike the compositions outside the invention (CC1 to CC4) comprising either 3% of azelaic acid, or a polar oil (dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate) or a polyol other than the polyol of formula (I) (pentylene glycol). Specifically, the comparative compositions outside the invention (CC1 to CC4) exhibit crystals with shapes different than those of the compositions according to the invention (diamond shape or rectangular), of larger size (96-153 µm) or in the form of clusters (162-283 µm), distributed non-uniformly within said compositions.

Claims

A composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:(i) at least 5% by weight of azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition,(ii) at least one apolar oil,(iii) at least one polyol of formula (I) below:(I)whereinR1represents a hydroxyl,R2represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,R3represents a hydrogen or -OC3H5(OH)2or a hydroxyl or a methyl,R4represents a hydrogen or a hydroxyl,it being understood that at least two of the groups R1, R2, R3or R4are hydroxyls, and(iv) less than 1% by weight of a polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, or said composition is free of polar oil.The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the azelaic acid, the organic or mineral base salts thereof, the solvates thereof, or mixtures thereof, is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially ranging from 8% to 12% by weight and even better still ranging from 9% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the apolar oil is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, and even better still in a content ranging from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the apolar oil is a nonvolatile apolar oil, more preferentially chosen from i) liquid paraffin, ii) squalane, iii) mixtures of saturated linear, preferably C14-C30 and more preferentially C15-C28, hydrocarbons, such as mixtures of saturated linear C15-C19 alkanes, iv) and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyol of formula (I) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 13% by weight, and even better still ranging from 4% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio Rx[total mass concentration of azelaic acid and / or salts thereof and / or solvates thereof / total mass concentration of polar solvent(s)] is at least 0.130 and preferably at least 0.134; it being understood that the mass concentration of polar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the mixture of solvents a) water, and b) polyol(s) of formula (I), and c) polar oil(s) when the polar oil(s) is(are) present in the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio Ry[total mass concentration of apolar solvent(s) / total mass concentration of polar solvent(s)] is at least 0.025, preferably at least 0.03; it being understood that the mass concentration of polar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the mixture of solvents a) water, and b) polyol(s) of formula (I), and c) polar oil(s) when the polar oil(s) is(are) present in the composition; and it being understood that the mass concentration of apolar solvent(s) represents the total mass concentration of the apolar oil(s) present in the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polar oil is present in the composition in a content of less than 0.1% by weight, even better still less than 0.0001% by weight of a polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition.A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for caring for the skin.A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials, said keratin materials not exhibiting pathological disorders, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects chosen from oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief.The cosmetic use, in particular the topical use, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for caring for the skin.The non-therapeutic cosmetic use, in particular the topical cosmetic use, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for preventing and / or treating esthetic skin defects chosen from oily skin, non-uniformity of the skin complexion, dilated pores, and / or an uneven appearance of the skin relief, it being understood that said skin does not exhibit pathological disorders.The composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for use thereof, in particular topical use thereof, in the prevention and / or treatment of blackheads or comedones.The composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for use thereof, in particular topical use thereof, in the prevention and / or treatment of acneic skin.

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