Hair dyes
The use of cellulose fibers and modified polysaccharides as thickeners in oxidative hair dyes addresses the need for sustainable alternatives to acrylate crosspolymers, ensuring effective dye distribution and long-lasting color without environmental harm.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- HENKEL KGAA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-15
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing oxidative hair dyes require acrylate crosspolymers for viscosity and flow properties, which are undesirable for sustainability and environmental reasons, and there is a need for a formulation that maintains ease of use and coloring results without these polymers.
A combination of cellulose fibers and at least one modified polysaccharide is used as a thickener system in an alkaline dyeing component, which, when mixed with hydrogen peroxide, forms a dye mixture with desired viscosities and distribution properties.
The solution provides a dye mixture with appropriate viscosities and distribution, ensuring even coloring without compromising ease of use or environmental impact, while maintaining long-lasting results.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Dr. Torun 2025-12-15
[0002] "Hair dye"
[0003] The present application relates to an oxidative hair dye, a kit comprising this dye and a hair dyeing process using this dye.
[0004] For permanent, intense colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation dyes (or "oxidative hair coloring agents") are used. These dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, known as developers and couplers. Under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen, the developers react with each other or with one or more couplers to form the actual dyes. While oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting coloring results, a mixture of several oxidation dye precursors (OFVs) is usually required for natural-looking colorations; in many cases, direct dyes (DZs) are also included for nuance.
[0005] Most oxidative dyes have an alkaline pH value to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and to accelerate the reaction during oxidative application; this pH is adjusted with alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia, or inorganic bases.
[0006] To form the dye, the alkaline dye component is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution to create a homogeneous cream or gel, which is then applied directly to the hair to be dyed. This dyeing mixture remains on the hair for 5 to 60 minutes, until the oxidative formation of the dye is complete. The dyeing mixture is then rinsed out.
[0007] The aforementioned oxidation dye precursors (OFVs) and alkalizing agents are typically incorporated into a cosmetically suitable carrier, such as a cream. The carrier ensures homogeneous distribution and sufficient dwell time of the hair dye on the hair.
[0008] To ensure the dye mixture stays on the hair long enough, it must not be too runny, otherwise it will drip or run. At the same time, it must not be too thick or solid so that it can be easily distributed through the hair. Both of these factors are essential for an even and successful coloring result.
[0009] The alkaline dye component is typically formulated as a low-viscosity solution to facilitate mixing with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution. Mixing these two components, usually in a ratio between 1:0.5 and 1:3, results in a viscous dye mixture that meets the aforementioned requirements. A disadvantage is that the dye mixture must currently contain an acrylate crosspolymer to ensure that both the components and the dye mixture exhibit the appropriate viscosities.
[0010] For reasons of sustainability and environmental protection, acrylate crosspolymers or other acrylate-based polymers with the same performance in the product should, wherever possible, be replaced by other active ingredients without compromising ease of use or the coloring result. For this, a suitable viscosity build-up after mixing with the developer, appropriate flow properties, even distribution in the hair, and good rinsability from the hair are of great importance.
[0011] The present invention was based on the objective of providing an alkaline dyeing component that meets the above-mentioned requirements for this component and, after mixing with a hydrogen peroxide-containing second component, yields a dyeing mixture that meets the further above-mentioned conditions.
[0012] It was surprisingly found that a combination of cellulose fibers and at least one other (modified) polysaccharide produces the desired viscosities in the alkaline dyeing component and in the dyeing mixture.
[0013] A first subject matter of the present application is therefore an oxidative hair coloring agent (M1), comprising, in each case based on the weight of the agent,
[0014] - 78 - 95 wt.%, preferably 82 - 91 wt.%, water, at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%,
[0015] - a thickener system comprising cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, wherein no saturated and unsaturated non-alkoxylated alkanols with a hydroxy group and 1 to 50 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group and no saturated and unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids with 1 to 50 carbon atoms and no oxidizing agents are included.
[0016] The composition according to the invention represents the alkaline coloring component of an oxidative hair dye. This component is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation immediately before application and then applied to the hair to be dyed. Until it is mixed with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation, the composition according to the invention contains no oxidizing agents. Within the scope of this application, this means that the composition according to the invention contains M1 0 to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, preferably 0 wt.%.
[0017] Water content
[0018] The composition according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 78 - 95 wt.% water, preferably 82 - 91 wt.% water.
[0019] Oxidation dye precursor
[0020] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reaction behavior: developer components and coupler components.
[0021] Coupler components alone do not produce significant coloration during oxidative staining; they always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can react with themselves to form the actual dye.
[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the oxidative agent (M1) according to the invention contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor.
[0023] The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances with amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, or sulfates.
[0024] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-Bis-(4-amino-phenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1 ,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,the physiologically compatible salts of these compounds as well as mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.
[0025] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine and mixtures of these compounds as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and mixtures of these compounds as well as their physiologically acceptable salts are especially preferred.
[0026] Preferably, at least one developer component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0027] Preferably, at least one coupler component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.001 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0028] Preferably, the total amount of oxidation dye precursors or their salts in the composition (M1) according to the invention is 0.011 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.11 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.6 to 3.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (M1).
[0029] Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This results in the formation of a covalent bond between the coupler and developer components. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds bearing at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. If the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), the aforementioned groups are preferably located in the ortho or meta position relative to each other.
[0030] Preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes:
[0031] - 3-Aminophenol (m-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
[0032] - 3-Aminoaniline (m-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
[0033] - 2-Aminoaniline (1,2-Diaminobenzene; o-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
[0034] - 2-Aminophenol (o-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
[0035] - Naphthalene derivatives with at least one hydroxyl group,
[0036] - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives,
[0037] - Pyridine derivatives,
[0038] - Pyrimidine derivatives,
[0039] - Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives,
[0040] - Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives,
[0041] - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
[0042] - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
[0043] - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
[0044] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred in this embodiment according to the invention.
[0045] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3- Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophen- oxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Di- chlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylendioxyanilin, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2’-hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1 ,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophe- nyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-meth- oxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}- amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4- ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin,4-Chlorresorcinol, 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzene, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-Naphthol, 1,5-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-Hydroxyindole, 6-Hydroxyindole, 7-Hydroxyindole, 4-Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin, 7-Hydroxyindolin or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
[0046] Particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-naphthol, and 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned components. It may be preferable to omit resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives.
[0047] Direct dyes
[0048] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation or to mattify undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, especially in the reddish or bluish range, it is preferred according to the invention if further color-giving components are included in the oxidative agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0049] In a further embodiment, the oxidative agents (M1) according to the invention can therefore additionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.
[0050] Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic, or nonionic. The direct dyes are preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent.
[0051] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue. Preferred cationic direct-drawing dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14; aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17; cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B); and direct-drawing dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.The cationic direct dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. Nonionic direct dyes particularly suitable are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known by the international names or...Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1 -(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochi- non, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoe- säure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.According to the invention, at least one cationic direct dye selected from Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, as well as mixtures thereof, is particularly preferred.
[0052] Alkalizing agent
[0053] The composition according to the invention contains at least one alkalizing agent. The alkalizing agent preferred according to the invention for adjusting the preferred pH value is selected from the group consisting of ammonium hydroxide, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures thereof. Lithium, sodium, potassium, and in particular sodium or potassium, preferably serve as alkali metal ions.
[0054] The basic amino acids that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D,L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D,L-lysine, and particularly preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D,L-arginine as an alkalizing agent in accordance with the invention.
[0055] The alkali hydroxides that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. The alkanolamines that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6 alkyl core containing at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol. According to the invention, particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol.
[0056] A particularly preferred alkalizing agent according to the invention is monoethanolamine (2-aminoethanol-1-ol). To achieve a dyeing process that is as odorless as possible and to optimize the fastness properties of the dyeing, monoethanolamine is included in a total amount of 0.2–10 wt.%, preferably 0.5–8 wt.%, more preferably 1–6 wt.%, and particularly preferably 2–4 wt.% – based on the weight of the dyeing agent according to the invention.
[0057] In addition to or instead of monoethanolamine, further preferred dyes according to the invention contain ammonium hydroxide, i.e., ammonia in the form of its aqueous solution. The corresponding aqueous ammonia solutions can be 10 to 35 percent solutions (calculated in vol.%). 100 g of aqueous ammonia solution with 25 vol.% NH3 contains approximately 50 g of ammonia. Ammonia is preferably used in the form of a 20 to 30 vol.% solution, and particularly preferably in the form of a 25 vol.% solution.
[0058] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the dye according to the invention contains ammonium hydroxide in an amount of 0.2 to 6 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt.% and particularly preferably 1 to 2 wt.%, based on the weight of the dye according to the invention.
[0059] Furthermore, other alkalizing agents, such as potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide, may be included, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 0.6 wt.%, each based on the weight of the dye according to the invention.
[0060] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the dye according to the invention contains at least one alkalizing agent in a total amount of 0.02 - 0.4 mol / 100 g, preferably 0.05 - 0.3 mol / 100 g, in each case in mol of alkalizing agent per 100 grams of the agent according to the invention.
[0061] Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by a pH value in the range of 8.0 - 12.0, preferably 9.0 - 11.5, particularly preferably 9.7 - 10.7, each measured at 20°C.
[0062] A preferred agent is therefore an agent according to the invention which contains monoethanolamine in a total amount of 0.2 - 10 wt.%, preferably 0.5 - 8 wt.%, further preferably 1 to 6 wt.% and particularly preferably 2 to 4 wt.%, based on the weight of the dye according to the invention, and has a pH value in the range of 8.0 - 12.0, preferably 9.0 - 11.5, particularly preferably 9.7 - 10.7, each measured at 20°C.
[0063] Niotenside
[0064] The composition according to the invention contains, based on its weight, at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
[0065] Surfactants and emulsifiers as defined in the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic molecular part. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented adsorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases. When selecting suitable surfactants according to the invention, it may be preferable to use a mixture of surfactants in order to optimally adjust the properties of the compositions for oxidative hair coloring (M1) according to the invention.
[0066] Suitable nonionic surfactants for the compositions according to the invention are all nonionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body which have at least one water-soluble, nonionic group, in particular a polyethylene glycol ether group with at least 2 ethylene oxide units, a glycoside group, in particular a glucose or methylglucose group, a polyglycoside group with on average more than one glycoside unit, a polyglycerol group with at least two glycerol units, a sorbitan group, an amide group or several different ones of these groups, for example a sorbitan group and a polyethylene glycol ether group, and at least one lipophilic
[0067] group, in particular a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 24 C atoms, a polydimethylsiloxane containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain or several different such groups.
[0068] Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7–80 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated Ca-Cso alkanols with 4–100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated Ca-Cso carboxylic acids with 5–30 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogues, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0069] According to the invention, preferred nonionic surfactants selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7–80 mol of ethylene oxide per mol are selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20–65 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, particularly preferably from castor oil ethoxylated with 30–60 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, and most preferably from castor oil ethoxylated with 40–55 mol of ethylene oxide per mol. The ethoxylated Ca-Cso-alkanols have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 4 to 100, preferably 6 to 30, particularly preferably 12 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of alkanol, preferably selected from caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as from technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 10 - 100 mol ethylene oxide to technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.Particularly preferred are Trideceth-6, isotrideceth-6, Undeceth-6, Myreth-6, Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12, Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30 as well as Coceth-10, Coceth-12, Coceth-15, Coceth-20 and Coceth-30; Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12, Steareth-15, Steareth-20 and Steareth-30 as well as mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
[0070] The ethoxylated Ca-Cso carboxylic acids have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1O represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8-30 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 5-30, preferably 6-20, particularly preferably 6 to 12 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of Ca-Cso carboxylic acid, preferably selected from caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid, as well as from technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 5-30, preferably 6-20, particularly preferably 6 to 12 mol of ethylene oxide to technical fatty acids with 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable.
[0071] According to the invention, particularly preferred compositions contain at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
[0072] Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one nonionic surfactant selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7-80 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated Ca-Cso alkanols with 4-100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated Ca-Cso carboxylic acids with 5-30 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, with 4-50 mol ethylene oxide per mol, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.1-3 wt.%, preferably 0.3-2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8-2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.According to the invention, exceptionally preferred compositions contain at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7-80 mol ethylene oxide per mol, preferably with 20-65 mol ethylene oxide per mol ethoxylated, particularly preferably with 30-60 mol ethylene oxide per mol ethoxylated, and exceptionally preferably with 40-55 mol ethylene oxide per mol ethoxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in a total amount of 0.1-3 wt.%, preferably 0.3-2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8-2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
[0073] According to the invention, preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from polyalkylene siloxanes modified with polyalkylene glycol side chains, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, and particularly preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, wherein the polyethylene glycol side chains have a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 15, and particularly preferably 12, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances. According to the invention, it is particularly preferred that the agent comprises a nonionic surfactant with the INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone. A polydimethylsiloxane modified with polyethylene glycol side chains having a degree of polymerization of 12 and having a kinematic viscosity of 260 cSt at 25°C is exceptionally preferred.Such a silicone surfactant is marketed by Dow Corning under the trade name Xiameter OFX 0193 Fluid (formerly: Dow Corning 193 C Fluid) with the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone.
[0074] Polydimethylsiloxane-polyethylene glycol block copolymers also represent suitable nonionic surfactants.
[0075] Preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyalkylene glycol side chains modified with polyalkylene glycol side chains, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, particularly preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, wherein the polyethylene glycol side chains have a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20, preferably of 5 to 15 and particularly preferably of 12, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances.Preferably, the composition M1 according to the invention contains, based on its weight, at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyalkylene glycol-modified side chains of polyalkylene siloxanes, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, preferably from polydimethyl siloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, and mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, particularly preferably from polydimethyl siloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, wherein the polyethylene glycol side chains have a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 15 and particularly preferably 12, as well as mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances in a total amount of 0.1 - 2.5 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
[0076] Thickener system
[0077] The composition according to the invention comprises a thickener system containing cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Within the scope of the present invention, the term cellulose fibers refers to micro- or nanofibrils made of cellulose. The cellulose fibers can be of bacterial or plant origin, i.e., produced by fermentation or obtained from vegetables, plants, fruits, or wood. Cellulose fiber sources can be selected from the group consisting of citrus peels such as lemons, oranges, and / or grapefruit, apples, bananas, and / or pears; vegetables such as carrots, peas, potatoes, and / or chicory; plants such as bamboo, jute, abaca, flax, cotton, and / or sisal; cereals; and various wood sources such as spruce, eucalyptus, and / or oak. Preferably, the cellulose fiber source is selected from the group consisting of wood or plants, in particular spruce, eucalyptus, jute, and sisal.
[0079] The cellulose content in the cellulose fibers varies depending on the source and treatment used to obtain the fibers, and is typically between 15% and 100%, preferably over 30%, more preferably over 50% and even more preferably over 80% of cellulose, based on the weight of the cellulose fibers.
[0080] The cellulose fibers may contain pectin, hemicellulose, proteins, lignin, and other impurities inherent to the cellulose material source, such as ash, metals, salts, and combinations thereof. The cellulose fibers are preferably nonionic. Such fibers are commercially available, for example, Citri-Fi 100FG from Fiberstar, Herbacel® Classic from Herbafood, Arbalon R-50® from CP Kelco, and ExilvaO from Borregaard.
[0081] For the purposes of the present invention, fibers can be distinguished from particles by the fact that they are much more elongated and typically have a length-to-diameter ratio of at least 1000 or at least 100. Particles are normally less elongated and have a length-to-diameter ratio of, for example, 10 or less.
[0082] According to the invention, it is preferred if the cellulose fibers are cellulose microfibers and / or cellulose nanofibers.
[0083] These cellulose fibers preferably have an average length of 100 nm to 50 pm, preferably 500 nm to 25 pm, more preferably 1 pm to 10 pm, and most preferably 3 pm to 10 pm. The cellulose fibers preferably have an average diameter of 1 nm to 500 nm, more preferably 10 nm to 350 nm, more preferably 30 nm to 250 nm, and more preferably 50 nm to 200 nm.
[0084] The at least one additional thickener is selected from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides, i.e., physically and / or chemically modified polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] In principle, polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides are suitable if they do not have any undesirable effects on the other ingredients of the product and the dyeing mixture, on the hair to be dyed, and on the skin that comes into contact with the product.It is selected, for example, from cellulose ethers, especially hydroxy-(C1-C4)-alkyl celluloses, in particular hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucans, polygalactomannans, in particular guar gums and locust bean gum, in particular guar gum and locust bean gum themselves and the non-ionic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives and locust bean gum derivatives, such as hydroxypropyl guar, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl methyl guar, hydroxyethyl guar and carboxymethyl guar, furthermore pectins, agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan gum, propylene glycol alginate, alginic acids and whose salts, in particular sodium alginate, potassium alginate and calcium alginate, are further physically (e.g.by pregelatinization) and / or chemically modified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated starch phosphates and octenyl starch succinates and their aluminium, calcium or sodium salts.
[0086] The aforementioned polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides can be classified into nonionic and ionic polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides. Hydroxypropylated starch phosphates and octenyl starch succinates, and their aluminum, calcium, or sodium salts, represent ionic modified polysaccharides.
[0087] Cellulose ethers, especially hydroxy-(C1-C4)-alkylcelluloses, in particular hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, and methylhydroxyethylcellulose, represent nonionic modified polysaccharides. Also nonionic are polygalactomannans, especially guar gum, taragum, and locust bean gum, and glucans, especially sclerotium gum and curdlan. Starch is also nonionic.
[0088] The polysaccharides pectins, in particular fruit pectins, preferably apple pectin, as well as xanthan gum, carrageenan, succinoglucans, and agar-agar contain acid-substituted sugar building blocks, for example, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, sulfates, or succinic acid, and are therefore anionic. Accordingly, within the scope of this application, anionic polysaccharides or modified polysaccharides are understood to be those which bear at least one functional group that has, or may have, at least one negative charge, such as acid groups, for example, carboxylic acid groups or carboxylate groups, phosphates, and / or sulfates. In particular, the overall charge of the anionic polysaccharide or modified polysaccharide is preferably negative.
[0089] Preferably, the at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides is an anionic polysaccharide and is further preferably selected from starches, xanthan gum, physically and / or chemically modified starches, physically and / or chemically modified xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, more preferably from starches, xanthan gum, esters and / or ethers of starches, esters and / or ethers of xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, in particular preferably from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and xanthan gum or mixtures thereof.
[0090] A preferred agent is therefore an agent according to the invention in which the at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides is an anionic polysaccharide and is preferably selected from starches, xanthan gum, physically and / or chemically modified starches, physically and / or chemically modified xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, preferably from starches, xanthan gum, esters and / or ethers of starches, esters and / or ethers of xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, in particular preferably from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and xanthan gum or mixtures thereof.
[0091] According to the invention, it is preferred if the thickener system is used in an amount of 2.0 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably the respective minimum amount of the individual thickeners is 0.015 wt.%, in particular preferably 0.02 wt.%, each based on the total amount of the agent.
[0092] According to the invention, a composition is preferred if it contains the thickener system in an amount of 2.0 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably the respective minimum amount of the individual thickeners is 0.015 wt.%, in particular preferably 0.02 wt.%, each based on the total amount of the composition.
[0093] It is also preferred according to the invention if the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers in a total amount of 0.015 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 1.2 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the agent.
[0094] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is preferred if the thickener system comprises cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and / or modified polysaccharides in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10.0 to 1.0 to 200, particularly preferably from 1 to 20 to 1 to 175.
[0095] To ideally adjust the properties of the alkaline dyeing component and the dyeing mixture for the desired application, it is preferred according to the invention if the thickener system, in addition to the cellulose fibers and the at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides, comprises at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides. Similarly, it is preferred according to the invention if the thickener system, in addition to the cellulose fibers, comprises at least two further thickeners from the group of polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives.
[0096] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is preferred if the thickener system comprises cellulose fibers and the at least two further thickeners from the group of polysaccharides and / or modified polysaccharides in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10 to 100 to 1.0 to 40 to 250, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 20 to 150 to 1.0 to 30 to 200.
[0097] According to the invention, it is preferred if the thickening system contains xanthan gum in a total amount of 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.2 to 1.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.3 to 0.7 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the agent.
[0098] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is preferred if the thickening system contains hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in an amount of 2 to 5 wt.%, preferably in an amount of 2.7 to 4.3 wt.%, and particularly preferably in an amount of 3.1 to 3.9 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the agent.
[0099] According to the invention, it is preferred if the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers and xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10 to 100 to 1.0 to 40 to 250, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 20 to 150 to 1.0 to 30 to 200.
[0100] In order to suit the properties of the alkaline dyeing component and the dyeing mixture for the desired application, it is particularly preferred according to the invention if the thickener system comprises cellulose fibers in a total amount of 0.015 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 1.2 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 0.8 wt.%, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in an amount of 2 to 5 wt.%, preferably in an amount of 2.7 to 4.3 wt.%, particularly preferably in an amount of 3.1 to 3.9 wt.%, and xanthan gum in a total amount of 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.2 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.3 to 0.7 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the agent.
[0101] Since the background of the present invention was, among other things, the avoidance of the use of acrylate crosspolymers in particular and acrylate-based polymers in general, it is preferred according to the invention if the agent (M1) contains less than a total amount of 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.05 wt.%, and particularly preferably no acrylic acid polymer, based on the total amount of the agent. Within the scope of this application, acrylic acid polymer and acrylate polymer are used synonymously, and no distinction is made between the neutralized and ionic forms; this also applies to all acrylate-based polymers. Furthermore, the terms acrylate and acrylic acid polymer encompass both homopolymers and any type of copolymer, such as, among others, block copolymers, statistical copolymers, copolymers of two, three, or more different monomers, and others.Acrylic-based polymers are understood to be all polymers that comprise acrylic acid, acrylamides, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid, methacrylamides, and / or methacrylic esters as chain-forming monomers. In addition to omitting the aforementioned acrylate-based polymers, the invention also prefers omitting polymers that contain vinyl-based chain-forming monomers such as vinylpyrrolidones, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, and / or styrene. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the composition contains less than a total amount of 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.05 wt.%, and particularly preferably no polymer from the group consisting of acrylic polymers and vinyl polymers, based on the total amount of the composition. The aforementioned preferred omission of such polymers also applies to the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) within the packaging unit (kit-of-parts) and to the processes for oxidative hair coloring.
[0102] The compositions according to the invention and used according to the invention do not contain saturated and unsaturated non-alkoxylated alkanols with a hydroxyl group and 1 to 50 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group; in particular, the compositions according to the invention do not contain ethanol, isopropanol, linear fatty alcohols such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol, and branched alkanols such as 2-octyldodecanol.
[0103] The compositions according to the invention furthermore do not contain saturated and unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids with 1 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular no oleic acid and no stearic acid or their salts.
[0104] The content of the thickener system or the individual components of the thickener system, as previously described, is selected such that the viscosity of the agent according to the invention is preferably in the range of 200 - 4000 mPas, more preferably 500 - 3600 mPas, particularly preferably 1000 - 3200 mPas, and especially preferably 2500 - 3000 mPas, each measured at 20°C (6000 1 / s, measuring time 60 s, Haake iQ Air with CC25 DIN / SS-01180647).
[0105] It is further preferred that the composition according to the invention comprises fatty substances with a melting point of 30°C and above at 1013 mbar and a water solubility of 0.005 wt.% and below, in a total amount of 0–0.1 wt.%, preferably 0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition. These fatty substances include, for example, waxes, hydrogenated oils and fats, as well as esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols with a melting point of 30°C and above at 1013 mbar. This means that the composition according to the invention is preferably free of these substances.
[0106] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention and those used according to the invention contain, based on their weight, at least one linear saturated alkanol with two or three hydroxyl groups and 2 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group in a total amount of 0–3 wt.%, preferably 0.1–2.2 wt.%. Particularly preferred linear saturated alkanols with two or three hydroxyl groups and 2 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group are selected from 1,2-propanediol and glycerol, as well as mixtures thereof. Most preferably, 0–3 wt.%, preferably 0.1–2.2 wt.%, of 1,2-propanediol is included, based on the weight of the composition. Further preferably, at least one linear saturated alkanol with two or three hydroxy groups and 2 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, including 1,2-propanediol, is included in a total amount of 0 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 2.2 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent.
[0107] It is preferred that the agent according to the invention comprises at least one ether compound of xylitol in order to improve the dyeing performance of the oxidative dyeing treatment.
[0108] The term "ether compounds of xylitol" encompasses both the ether compounds between xylitol and a compound other than xylitol with at least one OH group suitable for etherification, as well as the ether compounds between two or more xylitol molecules and the intramolecular ethers of xylitol.
[0109] Preferred intramolecular ethers of xylitol are 1,4-anhydroxylitol and 1,5-anhydroxylitol, with 1,4-anhydroxylitol being particularly preferred.
[0110] Furthermore, xylitol ethers of polyols are particularly preferred, especially xylitol ethers of a polyol selected from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 15 hydroxy groups, which may be linear or cyclic and whose carbon atom chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, in particular by one or more oxygen atoms.
[0111] Preferred polyols for etherification with xylitol are selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, alditols, 1,2-ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, 1,3-butanediol, and polyethylene glycol with 2 to 20 ethylene glycol units. For the purposes of this application, oligosaccharides are understood to be saccharides consisting of 2 to 5 monosaccharides, preferably 2 to 3 monosaccharides.
[0112] Monosaccharides preferred for ether formation with xylitol are selected from erythrose, threose, erythrulose, ribose, deoxyribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, galactose, xylose, lyxose, allose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose, fucose and rhamnose, particularly preferred are glucose, galactose, fructose, fucose and rhamnose, and glucose is extraordinarily preferred.
[0113] Disaccharides particularly preferred for ether formation with xylitol are selected from maltose, cellobiose, sucrose, lactose, and trehalose. Maltose, cellobiose, and sucrose are especially preferred, particularly maltose and cellobiose.
[0114] Trisaccharides particularly favored for ether formation with xylitol are selected from maltotriose and raffinose.
[0115] Particularly preferred alditols for ether formation with xylitol are selected from xylitol, mannitol, isomalt, lactitol, sorbitol (or glucitol), threitol, erythritol, and arabitol. According to the invention, preferred compositions for oxidative hair coloring (M1) are characterized in that they contain at least one ether compound of xylitol, selected from ethers of xylitol with at least one mono- or oligosaccharide and intramolecular xylitol ethers, as well as mixtures thereof. Further preferred compositions for oxidative hair coloring (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ether compound of xylitol, selected from xylityl monoglucoside, xylityl oligoglucoside with 2, 3, 4, or 5 consecutive glucose units, 1,4-anhydroxylitol, and 1,5-anhydroxylitol, as well as mixtures thereof.Further preferred agents for oxidative hair coloring (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ether compound of xylitol selected from xylityl monoglucoside, xylityl oligoglucoside with 2 or 3 consecutive glucose units and 1,4-anhydroxylitol, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0116] Further preferred compositions for oxidative hair coloring (M1) according to the invention are characterized by a total content of at least one ether compound of xylitol of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 - 1 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition for oxidative hair coloring.
[0117] Chelating agents
[0118] According to the invention, a chelating agent is understood to be a compound that forms chelates with calcium or magnesium ions in aqueous solution. According to the invention, chelates are understood to be cyclic compounds in which metal ions, furthermore groups with lone pairs of electrons or with electron deficiencies, and furthermore hydrogen are involved in ring formation.
[0119] According to the invention, preferred chelating agents have a molar mass of 100 g / mol to 600 g / mol. Further preferred chelating agents according to the invention are selected from pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (dipicolinic acid), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid) and its sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, disodium pyrophosphate, beta-alanine diacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, aminotrimethylenephosphonic acid, diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid, disodium azacycloheptane diphosphonate, disodium hydroxyethylaminobismethylphosphonate, disodium hydroxyethyliminodiacetate, hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA) and its sodium or potassium salts, pentapotassium triphosphate, pentasodium triphosphate, pentasodium aminotrimethylenephosphonate, pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate. Pentasodium diethylenetriamine pentaacetate (Pentasodium Pentetate), Diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (Pentetic Acid),Phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, potassium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (potassium EDTMP), sodium ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate (sodium EDTMP), sodium diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (sodium DTPMP), sodium hexametaphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, tetrasodium dicarboxymethyl aspartate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, trisodium dicarboxymethylalaninate (trisodium MGDA, methylglycine diacetate trisodium salt), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (trisodium EDDS) and trisodium nitrilotriacetate, as well as mixtures of these chelating agents. Particularly preferred chelating agents according to the invention are selected from pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (dipicolinic acid), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid) and its sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, disodium pyrophosphate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its potassium and ammonium salts, pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (pentasodium pentetate), tetrasodium pyrophosphate,Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (trisodium EDDS), trisodium dicarboxymethylalaninate (trisodium MGDA) and mixtures of these chelating agents.
[0120] According to the invention, particularly preferred agents M1 and / or preparations M2 contain at least one chelating agent in a total amount of 0.01 - 2.5 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.2 - 0.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent or preparation.
[0121] The present invention also aimed to provide a packaging unit whose components, alkaline dyeing component and hydrogen peroxide-containing component, after mixing yield a dyeing mixture that fulfills the other requirements mentioned above, including enabling easy application.
[0122] Another object of the present invention is therefore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising - separately packaged - i. at least one container (C1) containing an agent for oxidative hair coloring (M1), containing, in each case based on the weight of the agent,
[0123] - 78 - 95 wt.%, preferably 82 - 91 wt.%, water, at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%,
[0124] - a thickener system comprising cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group consisting of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, wherein it contains no saturated and unsaturated non-alkoxylated alkanols with a hydroxyl group and 1 to 50 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group and no saturated and unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids with 1 to 50 carbon atoms, and no oxidizing agents, and ii. at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40-96 wt.%, preferably 70-93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80-90 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, contains (calculated as 100% H2O2) and has a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, preferably 2.8 to 5.5, particularly preferably 3.4 to 5.0, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt. -% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0125] The packaging unit comprises the agent according to the invention, as described above, in a container (C1) as the agent for oxidative hair coloring (M1). All assumptions, statements, and preferred embodiments described above for the agent also apply to agent M1 as part of the packaging unit described herein.
[0126] The packaging unit also includes an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in a container (C2). The term oxidizing treatment agent (M2) is also used synonymously for the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0127] hydrogen peroxide
[0128] The formation of pigments in oxidative dyes, or the breakdown of the hair's own pigment melanin for bleaching, only occurs through the action of a peroxide compound as an oxidizing agent. Hydrogen peroxide is typically used for this purpose. Hydrogen peroxide can only be used in the form of an aqueous solution.
[0129] According to the invention, preferred oxidative treatment agents are characterized in that they contain 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6 to 12 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative treatment agent M2.
[0130] Bleaching agents or particularly strong lightening dyes may also contain strongly oxidizing peroxide compounds, such as potassium, sodium, and / or ammonium persulfate. However, these persulfates are not inherently present in the oxidative treatment agents according to the invention, as they are not stable in storage. Instead, persulfates are stored separately in an anhydrous preparation until the ready-to-use color-changing agent is prepared.
[0131] Water
[0132] The oxidative treatment agents M2 according to the invention contain water in an amount of 40 to 96 wt.%, preferably 70 to 93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80 to 85 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative treatment agent M2.
[0133] Other possible ingredients
[0134] According to the invention, it is preferred if the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) comprise at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (I) comprising, wherein Ri represents a C11-C25 alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the groups R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R2 and R3 each represent a methyl group.
[0135] Particularly preferred residues R 1 are selected from n-Undecyl, n-Tridecyl, n-Pentadecyl, n-Heptadecyl, n-Nonadecyl and n-Heneicosanyl, as well as from mixtures thereof.
[0136] Particularly preferred amidoalkylamines of formula (I) are C12 - C22-amido-n-propyldimethyl-amines.
[0137] Preferably, the non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine is selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflower seed amidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] According to the invention, particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents M2 are characterized in that non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, and brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine, and in particular mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine with the INCI name brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. A particularly preferred mixture according to the invention of amidoalkylamines of formula (I) comprises fatty acid fractions R. 1 CO- with 20 or more carbon atoms in an amount of at most 70 wt.%, preferably at most 65 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the total fatty acid content R 1 CO- in the amidoalkylamine mixture.
[0139] It is particularly preferred if non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (I) is contained in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the treatment agent M2.
[0140] Therefore, packaging units are preferred in which non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine is included in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) and is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and cocamidopropyldimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof, in particular brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and / or mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0141] Therefore, packaging units are preferred in which non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (I) is contained in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0142] According to the invention, it is preferred if the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) comprise at least one linear 1-alkanol with a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%.
[0143] Preferably, the linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol (octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol), decan-1-ol (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol), dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), eicosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol), docosan-1-ol (docosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol), (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof. It is particularly preferred that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosan-1-ol, docosan-1-ol, and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of hexadecan-1-ol and octadecan-1-ol are especially preferred according to the invention.
[0144] Therefore, packaging units are preferred in which a linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms is included in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) and is selected from octan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosan-1-ol, docosan-1-ol, (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0145] The non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (I) contributes to reduced hair damage caused by oxidative treatment agents, particularly in combination with a linear 1-alkanol with a hydroxyl group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms. At the same time, other beneficial application properties, especially the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture from the keratin fibers, are improved by the presence of these ingredients.
[0146] Therefore, packaging units according to the invention are particularly preferred in which the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) also includes a) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (I) wherein Ri represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the groups R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R2 and R3 each represent a methyl group, and b) at least one linear 1-alkanol with a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, most preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, wherein the wt.% values refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Preferred compounds of formula I, preferred amounts of the compounds of formula I and preferred 1-alkanols have already been mentioned and are also preferred here.Particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents M2 according to the invention, especially within the packaging unit (kit-of-parts), are characterized in that they further contain at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.0 - 1.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0147] Further particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents M2 according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, preferably selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol ethoxylated with 10 to 25 ethylene oxide units, preferably from mixtures of these ethoxylated 1-alkanols.
[0148] Preferred additional nonionic surfactants according to the invention are selected from adsorption products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20-100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated C8-C24 alkanols with 10-100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-C30 carboxylic acids ethoxylated with 20-100 mol ethylene oxide per mol, which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0149] Particularly preferred additional nonionic surfactants are selected from adsorption products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, wherein preferred divalent C10-16 alkane glycols are selected from
[0150] 1,2-Decanediol, 1,2-Undecanediol, 1,2-Dodecanediol (lauryl glycol), 1,2-Tridecanediol, 1,2-Tetradecanediol, 1,2-Pentadecanediol, and 1,2-Hexadecanediol, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from adsorption products of 6 to 12, preferably 8 to 9, ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units to 1,2-Decanediol, 1,2-Undecanediol, 1,2-Dodecanediol (lauryl glycol), 1,2-Tridecanediol, 1,2-Tetradecanediol, 1,2-Pentadecanediol, or
[0151] 1,2-Hexadecanediol and mixtures thereof. An exceptionally preferred nonionic surfactant of this class according to the invention is PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether, which is available, for example, under the trade name Eumulgin L from BASF.
[0152] The ethoxylated C8-C24 alkanols preferably used according to the invention have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group with 8 - 24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10 - 100, preferably 10 - 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10 - 100 mol ethylene oxide to technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.Particularly preferred are Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Laureth-100, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Myreth-100, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Ceteth-50, Ceteth-100, Steareth-10, Steareth-12 Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Steareth-50, Steareth-100, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Oleth-50, Oleth-100, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-100, as well as coceth-10, coceth-12, coceth-15, coceth-20, coceth-30, coceth-50, and coceth-100. A particularly preferred nonionic surfactant of this class according to the invention is steareth-100.
[0153] According to the invention, it is preferred that the agent (M1) and / or the preparation (M2) are free from sources of carbonate, carbamate, hydrogen carbonate or peroxymonocarbonate ions; it is particularly preferred that both the agent (M1) and the preparation (M2) are free from sources of carbonate, carbamate, hydrogen carbonate or peroxymonocarbonate ions.
[0154] The present invention was also based on the objective of providing a method for oxidative hair coloring in which the alkaline coloring component M1 according to the invention is used.
[0155] In the process according to the invention, the agent for oxidative hair coloring (M1) is used as described in detail above. Likewise, the packaging unit can be used as described in detail above. All assumptions, statements, and preferred embodiments described above for agent M1 and preparation M2 also apply to the process for oxidative hair coloring.
[0156] Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for oxidative hair coloring, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent for oxidative hair coloring (M1), comprising, in each case based on the weight of the agent,
[0157] -78 - 95 wt.%, preferably 82 - 91 wt.%, water,
[0158] - at least one oxidation dye precursor,
[0159] - at least one alkalizing agent,
[0160] - at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%,
[0161] -a thickener system comprising cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, wherein
[0162] - no saturated and unsaturated non-alkoxylated alkanols with a hydroxyl group and 1 to 50 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group and
[0163] - no saturated and unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids with 1 to 50 carbon atoms as well as
[0164] - no oxidizing agents are included, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40-96 wt.%, preferably 70-93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80-90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.% (calculated as 100% H2O2) and having a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, preferably 2.8 to 5.5, particularly preferably 3.4 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.-% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.
[0165] According to the invention, "immediately afterwards" is understood to mean a period of 1 to 600 seconds.
[0166] All information concerning the states of matter (solid, liquid, gaseous) in this application refers to standard conditions. For the purposes of this application, "standard conditions" are a temperature of 20°C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.
[0167] The abbreviation “ggf.” stands for “if applicable”.
[0168] With regard to the cosmetic agent (M1) in container C1 and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in container C2 of the kits according to the invention and preferred according to the invention, what has been said about the cosmetic agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0169] Regarding the cosmetic agent (M1) in the container C1 of the inventive and preferred methods for oxidative hair coloring, what has been said about the inventive and preferred cosmetic agents applies mutatis mutandis.
[0170] Regarding the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in the container C2 of the inventive and preferred methods for oxidative hair coloring, what has been said about the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) of the inventive and preferred kits for oxidative hair coloring applies mutatis mutandis.
[0171] To enable simple and safe application, it is preferred according to the invention if the mixture obtained in step iii) has the following properties with respect to its pH value and / or viscosity:
[0172] Methods according to the invention are preferred in which the mixture obtained in step iii) has a pH value in the range of 8 - 12, preferably 8.7 - 10.7, particularly preferably 9.2 - 10.2, each measured at 20°C.
[0173] Furthermore, methods according to the invention are preferred in which the mixture obtained in step iii) has a viscosity in the range of 3000 - 19000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 17000 mPas, particularly preferably 5000 - 15000 mPas, each measured at 20°C (6000 1 Zs, measuring time 60 s, Haake iQ Air with CC25 DI N / SS-01180647).
[0174] In particular, the subject matter of the present invention is described by the following points:
[0175] Point 1:
[0176] Oxidative hair coloring agents, containing, each based on the weight of the agent,
[0177] - 78 - 95 wt.%, preferably 82 - 91 wt.%, water, at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%,
[0178] - a thickener system comprising cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, wherein no saturated and unsaturated non-alkoxylated alkanols with a hydroxy group and 1 to 50 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group and no saturated and unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids with 1 to 50 carbon atoms and no oxidizing agents are included.
[0179] Point 2:
[0180] The agent according to point 1, wherein the at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides is an anionic polysaccharide and is preferably selected from starches, xanthan gum, physically and / or chemically modified starches, physically and / or chemically modified xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, preferably from starches, xanthan gum, esters and / or ethers of starches, esters and / or ethers of starches of xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, in particular preferably from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and xanthan gum or mixtures thereof.
[0181] Point 3:
[0182] Composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the composition comprises at least one linear saturated alkanol with two or three hydroxyl groups and 2 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group in a total amount of 0 - 3 wt.%.
[0183] Point 4:
[0184] Means according to one of the previous points, wherein the cellulose fibers are cellulose-
[0185] Microfibers and / or cellulose nanofibers. Point 5:
[0186] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the thickening system is used in an amount of 2.0 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably the respective minimum amount of each thickener is 0.015 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.02 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the composition.
[0187] Point 6:
[0188] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers in a total amount of 0.015 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 1.2 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the composition.
[0189] Point ?:
[0190] Agents according to one of the previous points, wherein the thickener system comprises at least two further thickeners from the group of polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives.
[0191] Point 8:
[0192] The agent according to any of the preceding points, wherein the thickening system comprises xanthan gum in a total amount of 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.2 to 1.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.3 to 0.7 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the agent.
[0193] Point 9:
[0194] Composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the thickening system comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in an amount of 2 to 5 wt.%, preferably in an amount of 2.7 to 4.3 wt.%, and particularly preferably in an amount of 3.1 to 3.9 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the composition.
[0195] Point 10:
[0196] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers in a total amount of 0.015 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 1.2 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 0.8 wt.%, and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in an amount of 2 to 5 wt.%, preferably in an amount of 2.7 to 4.3 wt.%, particularly preferably in an amount of 3.1 to 3.9 wt.%, and xanthan gum in a total amount of 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.2 to 1.0 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.3 to 0.7 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the composition.
[0197] Item 11: Agent according to any of the previous items, wherein the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and / or modified polysaccharides in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10.0 to 1.0 to 200.
[0198] Point 12:
[0199] Agents according to any of the preceding points, wherein the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers and at least two other thickeners from the group of polysaccharides and / or modified polysaccharides in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10 to 100 to 1.0 to 40 to 250.
[0200] Point 13:
[0201] Agents according to any of the previous points, wherein the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers and xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10 to 100 to 1.0 to 40 to 250.
[0202] Item 14:
[0203] Composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than a total amount of 0.05 wt.%, and in particular preferably no acrylic acid polymer and vinyl polymer, based on the total amount of the composition.
[0204] Point 15:
[0205] Agent according to any of the preceding points, wherein the alkalizing agent is selected from the group comprising ammonium hydroxide, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from the group of alkanolamines, in particular preferably ethanolamine.
[0206] Item 16:
[0207] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from polyalkylene glycol-modified side chains of polyalkylene siloxanes and mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, preferably from polydimethyl siloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains and mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances, particularly preferably from polydimethyl siloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, wherein the polyethylene glycol side chains have a degree of polymerization of 3 to 20, preferably of 5 to 15 and particularly preferably of 12, and mixtures of several of the aforementioned substances.
[0208] Item 17:
[0209] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein it has a viscosity in the range of 200 - 4000 mPas, preferably 500 - 3600 mPas, particularly preferably 1000 - 3200 mPas, particularly preferably 2500 - 3000 mPas, each measured at 20°C (6000 1 / s, measuring time 60 s, Haake iQ Air with CC25 DIN / SS-01180647).
[0210] Item 18:
[0211] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein it has a pH value in the range of 8 - 12, preferably 9 - 11.5, particularly preferably 9.7 - 10.7, each measured at 20°C.
[0212] Item 19:
[0213] Composition according to any of the preceding points, comprising fatty substances with a melting point of 30°C and above at 1013 mbar and a water solubility of 0.005 wt.% and below in a total amount of 0 - 0.1 wt.%, preferably 0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition.
[0214] Item 20:
[0215] Agents according to one of the previous points, wherein they comprise at least one ether compound of xylitol.
[0216] Point 21:
[0217] Composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein the at least one ether compound of xylitol is selected from xylityl monoglucoside, xylityl oligoglucoside with 2 or 3 consecutive glucose units and 1,4-anhydroxylitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0218] Item 22:
[0219] A composition according to any of the preceding points, wherein it has a total content of at least one ether compound of xylitol of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 1 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition for oxidative hair coloring.
[0220] Item 23:
[0221] A kit-of-parts package comprising – separately packaged – a) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for oxidative hair coloring according to any one of points 1 to 22, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.% water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, very preferably 5–18 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 6–12 wt.% (calculated as 100% H₂O₂) and having a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 2.8–5.5, particularly preferably 3.4–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the Weight percentages refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0222] Point 24:
[0223] Packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to point 23, wherein the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) furthermore c) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (I) wherein Ri represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the groups R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R2 and R3 each represent a methyl group, and d) comprises at least one linear 1-alkanol with a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, most preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, wherein the wt.% values refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0224] Point 25:
[0225] Packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to point 24, wherein at least one non-ethoxylated
[0226] Amidoalkylamine in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) is selected from
[0227] Stearamidopropyldimethylamine, Behenamidopropyldimethylamine, Palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, Lauramidopropyldimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and
[0228] Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, in particular brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and / or mixtures of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0229] Item 26:
[0230] Packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to point 24 and / or 25, wherein the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (I) is contained in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0231] Item 27:
[0232] Kit-of-parts according to points 24 to 28, wherein the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) is selected from octan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosan-1-ol, docosan-1-ol, (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0233] Item 28:
[0234] Packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to points 24 to 27, wherein the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) also contains at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2.0 wt.%, extremely preferably 1.0 - 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0235] Item 29:
[0236] Kit-of-parts according to point 28, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, preferably selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol ethoxylated with 10 to 25 ethylene oxide units, preferably from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as mixtures of these ethoxylated 1-alkanols.
[0237] Point 30:
[0238] Packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to points 23 to 29, wherein both the agent for oxidative hair coloring according to one of points 1 to 22 and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contain less than 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.05 wt.%, and in particular preferably no polymer or copolymer with acrylate-, methacrylate- or vinyl-containing monomers, in each case based on the weight of the agent in question.
[0239] Item 31:
[0240] A process for oxidative hair coloring, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent for oxidative hair coloring (M1) according to any one of points 1 to 22, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, very preferably 5–18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6–12 wt.% (calculated as 100% H₂O₂) and having a pH in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 2.8–5.5, particularly preferably 3.4–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.-% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.
[0241] Point 32:
[0242] Method for oxidative hair coloring according to point 31, wherein the mixture obtained in step iii) has a pH value in the range of 8 - 12, preferably 8.7 - 10.7, particularly preferably 9.2 - 10.2, each measured at 20°C.
[0243] Point 33:
[0244] Method for oxidative hair coloring according to points 31 to 32, wherein the mixture obtained in step iii) has a viscosity in the range of 3000 - 19000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 17000 mPas, particularly preferably 5000 - 15000 mPas, each measured at 20°C, particularly preferably 2500 - 3000 mPas (6000 1 / s, measuring time 60 s, Haake iQ Air with CC25 DIN / SS-01180647).
[0245] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it thereto.
[0246] The following coloring cream E1 was produced (amounts in wt.%): The following developer compositions E2 and E3 were produced (values in wt.%):
[0247] 'calculated as 100% H2O2
[0248] The coloring cream E1 was each combined with developer composition E2 or E2.
[0249] Developer composition E3 is homogeneously mixed in a mass ratio of 1:1.
[0250] These mixtures have the following viscosities:
Claims
Patent claims:
1. Oxidative hair coloring agent, containing, in each case based on the weight of the agent, - 78 - 95 wt.%, preferably 82 - 91 wt.%, water, at least one oxidation dye precursor, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.8 - 2 wt.%, - a thickener system comprising cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, wherein no saturated and unsaturated non-alkoxylated alkanols with a hydroxy group and 1 to 50 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl group and no saturated and unsaturated alkanecarboxylic acids with 1 to 50 carbon atoms and no oxidizing agents are included.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one further thickener from the group consisting of polysaccharides and modified polysaccharides is an anionic polysaccharide and is preferably selected from starches, xanthan gum, physically and / or chemically modified starches, physically and / or chemically modified xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, preferably from starches, xanthan gum, esters and / or ethers of starches, esters and / or ethers of starches of xanthan gum or mixtures thereof, in particular preferably from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and xanthan gum or mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the thickener system is used in an amount of 2.0 to 7.0 wt.%, preferably the respective minimum amount of the individual thickeners is 0.015 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.02 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the composition.
4. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the thickener system comprises cellulose fibers and at least one further thickener from the group consisting of polysaccharides and / or modified polysaccharides in a weight ratio of 1.0 to 10.0 to 1.0 to 200.
5. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the thickening system comprises cellulose fibers in a total amount of 0.015 to 2.0 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 1.2 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.02 to 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the total amount of the composition.
6. A composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein it has a viscosity in the range of 200 - 4000 mPas, preferably 500 - 3600 mPas, particularly preferably 1000 - 3200 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C (6000 1 / s, measuring time 60 s, Haake iQ Air with CC25 DIN / SS- 01180647).
7. Packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising – separately packaged – a) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for oxidative hair coloring according to any one of the preceding claims, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, most preferably 5–18 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 6–12 wt.%, (calculated as 100% H₂O₂) and having a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 2.8–5.5, particularly preferably 3.4–5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt. -% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
8. Kit-of-parts packaging unit according to claim 7, wherein the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3.0 wt. %, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2.0 wt. %, and most preferably 1.0 - 1.5 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
9. A process for oxidative hair coloring, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent for oxidative hair coloring (M1) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.%, water, furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5–23 wt.%, more preferably 2–21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4–20 wt.%, most preferably 5–18 wt.%, and most preferably 6–12 wt.% (calculated as 100% H₂O₂) and a pH value in the range of 2.5–6.5, preferably 2.8–5.5, particularly preferably 3.4 up to 5.0, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt. % values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.
10. Method for oxidative hair coloring according to claim 9, wherein the mixture obtained in step iii) has a viscosity in the range of 3000 - 19000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 17000 mPas, particularly preferably 5000 - 15000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C (6000 1 / s, measurement time 60 s, Haake iQ Air with CC25 DI N / SS-01180647).