Silicone-free composition comprising an antidandruff active agent, a fatty amine, a fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester and a fatty alcohol

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one antidandruff active agent, preferably chosen from selenium (poly)sulfides, 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof; b) at least one fatty amine; c) at least one fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester; and d) at least one fatty alcohol; said composition being silicone-free.

Description

Silicone-free composition comprising an antidandruff active agent, a fatty amine, a fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester and a fatty alcohol

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising at least one antidandruff active agent, at least one fatty amine, at least one fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester and at least one fatty alcohol, said composition being silicone-free.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[0003] Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.

[0004] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, notably in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

[0005] In addition, consumers may experience problems of discomfort and / or scaling of the scalp, leading to the appearance of dandruff. The barrier function of the scalp, which is the first line of defense between the body and attack from the external environment, can also be impaired.

[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to haircare treatments which use compositions intended to condition the hair by notably giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of a smooth feel (smoothness), suppleness, manageability and good disentangling properties, and which provide short-term effects to help in coping with the scalp discomfort problems, in limiting the presence of dandruff and the regreasing of the hair.

[0007] However, the products existing on the market are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and still have room for improvement, notably with regard to the cosmetic properties.

[0008] There is thus a real need to provide a composition which can reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of discomfort and / or scaling of the scalp, while at the same time maintaining good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, particularly in terms of smooth feel (softness), suppleness, manageability and disentangling. In addition, it is important for the compositions to be able to limit the regreasing of the hair and to preserve, or even improve, the barrier function of the scalp.

[0009] It has been discovered, surprisingly, that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention allow the abovementioned objectives to be achieved.Disclosure of the invention

[0010] One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising:a) at least one antidandruff active agent, preferably chosen from selenium (poly)sulfides, 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof;b) at least one fatty amine;c) at least one fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester; andd) at least one fatty alcohol;said composition being silicone-free.

[0011] The composition according to the invention gives keratin fibres good cosmetic properties, such as a smooth feel (softness), suppleness, manageability and easy disentangling.

[0012] The composition according to the invention also reduces, or even eliminates, the scaling of the scalp, and limits the regreasing of the hair. It also preserves or even improves the barrier function.

[0013] A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp, and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0014] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp, and the hair.

[0015] The term “at least one” means one or more.

[0016] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0017] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “the hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0019] Antidandruff active agentAs indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one antidandruff active agent, preferably chosen from selenium (poly)sulfides, 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof.

[0020] The term “anti-dandruff active agent” means any compound which prevents or limits excessive, visible scaling of the scalp.

[0021] The anti-dandruff active agent(s) may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:

[0022] (A) 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives:The 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and salts thereof: (I)in which:- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, notably C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group containing 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group containing 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above may be substituted with one or more alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or else one or more alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group;- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; and- R4 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.

[0023] Preferably, R2 = R4 = H.

[0024] Preferably, R3 = methyl.

[0025] Preferably, R1 is a C6-C12 branched alkyl radical.

[0026] Among these compounds, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridone and 6-cyclohexyl-1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(1H)-pyridone are preferred.

[0027] Among the salts that may be used, mention may be made of the salts of lower (C1-C4) alkanolamines, such as ethanolamine and diethanolamine, amine or alkylamine salts, and also salts with inorganic cations, for instance ammonium salts and the salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals.

[0028] The monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or octopirox) is most particularly preferred.

[0029] (B) Ellagic acid and derivatives thereof:Ellagic acid, or 2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy-(1)-benzopyrano(5,4,3-cde)(1) benzopyran-5,10-dione, is a well-known molecule present in the plant kingdom. Reference may be made to the publication in the Merck Index, 20th edition (1996), No. 3588.

[0030] Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula: which includes four fused rings.

[0031] The ellagic acid ether(s) that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the mono-, di-, tri- or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more hydroxyl groups (one of the four OH groups of ellagic acid) of ellagic acid to one or more groups OR, R being chosen from C2-C20 alkyl groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, and groups derived from one or more mono- or polysaccharides, for instance the group having the following formula:

[0032] In the case of the di-, tri- or polyethers of ellagic acid, the groups R as defined above may be identical or different.

[0033] Preferably, these ellagic acid ethers are chosen from 3,4-di-O-methylellagic acid, 3,3’-4-tri-O-methylellagic acid and 3,3’-di-O-methylellagic acid.

[0034] The salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or the ethers thereof that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium salt, the ammonium salt and the salts of amines such as the triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine and lysine salts. Preferably, the salt(s) of ellagic acid and / or the ethers thereof that may be used according to the invention are chosen from the salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, notably the sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts.

[0035] (C) pyrithione and derivatives thereof:Pyrithione is the compound 1-hydroxy-2(1H)-pyridinethione or 2-pyridinethiol 1-oxide.

[0036] The pyrithione salts that may be used in the context of the invention are notably monovalent metal salts and divalent metal salts such as the sodium, calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin and zirconium salts. The divalent metal salts and in particular the zinc salt (zinc pyrithione) are particularly preferred.

[0037] (D) selenium (poly)sulfides, among which mention may be made of selenium disulfide and selenium polysulfides of formula SexSyin which x and y are numbers between 1 and 7, and such that x + y = 8. Selenium disulfide is in the form of a powder, the particles of which generally have a particle size of less than 200 µm, preferably less than 25 µm.

[0038] (E) β-Hydroxy acids:According to the present invention, the term “β-hydroxy acid” means a carboxylic acid bearing a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxyl functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0039] Suitable β-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, β-hydroxypropionic acid, β-hydroxybutyric acid, β-hydroxy-β-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof and combinations thereof.

[0040] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof of formula (II): (II)in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22 and preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and possibly being substituted, for example, with at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function that is free or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0041] R’ is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group having the following formula: in which R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0042] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid.

[0043] More preferentially, the β-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0044] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0045] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the antidandruff active agent(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Preferably, the antidandruff active agent a) is chosen from selenium (poly)sulfides, 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof.

[0047] Even more preferentially, the antidandruff active agent a) is chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, preferably piroctone olamine.

[0048] Advantageously, the 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives or salts thereof are present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Preferably, the total content of piroctone olamine ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 1% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Fatty amineThe composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines.

[0051] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0052] Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0053] The fatty amines that may be used in the context of the invention may be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

[0054] Fatty amidoamines that may be mentioned include fatty amidoamines in which the C6-C30 fatty chain may be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0055] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0056] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0057] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition (which does not rule out the fact that they can “quaternize”in situ).

[0058] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0059] Among the amidoamines that may be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (A): RCONHR’’N(R’)2 (A)in which:

[0060] - R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups; preferably a linear or branched C5-C29 and better still C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a C5-C29 and better still C7-C23 alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched C7-C23 radical, which is saturated or comprises a double unsaturation (C=C);

[0061] - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, which is preferably linear, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0062] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0063] Preferably, in formula (A):

[0064] - R’ are identical and represent a methyl group;

[0065] - R’’ represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0066] - R represents a C7-C23 linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, which is saturated or comprising an unsaturation (C=C).

[0067] The amidoamines of formula (A) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds:- oleamidopropyldimethylamine,- sesamidopropyldimethylamine,- isostearamidopropyldimethylamine,- stearamidoethyldimethylamine,- lauramidopropyldimethylamine,- myristamidopropyldimethylamine,- behenamidopropyldimethylamine,- dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine,- palmitamidopropyldimethylamine,- ricinoleamindopropyldimethylamine,- soyamidopropyldimethylamine,- avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine,- cocamidopropyldimethylamine,- minkamidopropyldimethylamine,- oatamidopropyldimethylamine,- sesamidopropyldimethylamine,- tallamidopropyldimethylamine,- olivamidopropyldimethylamine,- palmitamidopropyldimethylamine,- stearamidoethyldiethylamine,- brassicamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0068] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Stearamidopropyldimethylamine is particularly preferred.

[0069] Tertiary fatty amines that may be mentioned include in particular the tertiary fatty amines of formula (B): RN(R’)2in which:- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30 and better still C8-C24 alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30 and preferably C8-C24 alkenyl radical; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably a methyl radical.

[0070] As fatty amines corresponding to formula (B), mention may be made of the following compounds: dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines, notably corresponding to formula (A) as defined above, and more particularly chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0072] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the fatty amine(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty amidoamine(s), notably of formula (A) as defined above, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty amidoamine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyldimethylamine in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Fatty acid-fatty alcohol esterThe composition according to the present invention comprises one or more esters derived from an alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, referred to hereinbelow as fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters.

[0077] These esters may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm). For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

[0078] These esters are non-silicone esters (they do not comprise any Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0079] Preferably, the alcohol from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is a saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 28 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0080] Preferably, the carboxylic acid from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is saturated, linear or branched, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 28 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably saturated monocarboxylic acids.

[0081] Solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol estersPreferably, the solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters are chosen from esters of a saturated monocarboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and of a saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Even more particularly, mention may be made of the compounds having the INCI name “Cetyl esters”.

[0082] Liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol estersPreferably, the liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic C8to C26mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C26aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols. Among the liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters that may be used, mention may be made of those for which at least one from among the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Mention may also be made of liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters for which the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived are both linear. Mention may also be made of those for which at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is unsaturated.

[0083] Preferentially, the liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester is chosen from liquid esters of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol. Among these, mention may be made of octyldodecyl or isocetyl behenates; isostearyl, isocetyl, isodecyl or octyl octanoates; decyl or isodecyl oleates; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl or 2-hexyldecyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isononyl, 2-ethylhexyl or octyl isononanoates; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl or oleyl erucates; ethyl-2-hexyl, isostearyl or 2-octyldecyl palmitates; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, oleyl oleate, esters of caprylic acid and of C10-C18fatty alcohol or esters of capric acid and of C10-C18fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] More particularly, the preferred liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters are those for which the alcohol and the acid from which the ester is derived are both linear, better still C10-C18alkyl caprylates, C10-C18alkyl caprates, and mixtures thereof. The compound having the INCI name “Cocoyl caprylate / caprate” is particularly preferred.

[0085] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more solid or liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters, chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- C8-C32, notably C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl palmitates such as octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate;- C8-C32, notably C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate;- C8-C32, notably C9-C26or even C10-C24alkyl stearates such as octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate;- C10-C18alkyl caprylates, C10-C18alkyl caprates and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Particularly preferably, the composition comprises one or more solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters chosen from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate; myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof. Better still, the composition comprises the compounds having the INCI name “Cetyl esters”.

[0087] Particularly preferably, the composition comprises one or more liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters chosen from C10-C18alkyl caprylates, C10-C18alkyl caprates and mixtures thereof. Better still, the composition comprises the compounds having the INCI name “Cocoyl caprylate / caprate”.

[0088] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester and at least one liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester. Better still, the composition comprises the compounds having the INCI name “Cetyl esters” and the compounds having the INCI name “Cocoyl caprylate / caprate”.

[0089] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises said solid ester(s) chosen from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, better still the compounds having the name “Cetyl esters”, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises said liquid ester(s) chosen from C10-C18alkyl caprylates, C10-C18alkyl caprates and mixtures thereof, better still the compounds having the INCI name “Cocoyl caprylate / caprate”, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters and one or more liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the compounds having the INCI name “Cocoyl caprylate / caprate” and the compounds having the name “Cetyl esters” in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Fatty alcoholThe composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols, preferably one or more solid fatty alcohols.

[0097] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm.) and are water-insoluble, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

[0098] The term “fatty alcohol” means an aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0099] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0100] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group (not substituted with one or more OH groups), comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0101] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol);- myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol);- cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol);- stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol);- arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol);- behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol);- lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol);- ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol);- montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol);- myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).

[0102] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0103] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight and better still from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Better still, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises said solid fatty alcohol(s), preferably chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, and better still from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Plant oilThe composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more plant oils, different from the preceding compounds.

[0107] Plant oils (or oils of plant origin) comprise mixtures of triglycerides of plant origin, i.e. fatty acid esters of glycerol.

[0108] Among the plant oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of olive oil, avocado oil and argan oil; camellia oil, cottonseed oil, rice bran oil, corn germ oil, wheat germ oil, passionflower oil, soybean oil, groundnut oil, coconut kernel oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, walnut oil, evening primrose oil, linseed oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower seed oil, coffee oil, borage oil, apricot kernel oil, Bambara pea oil, mango oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange pip oil, palm oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, butters that are liquid at 25°C such as shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] More preferentially, the plant oil is chosen from sunflower seed oil, soybean oil and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the oil of plant origin is a mixture of sunflower seed oil and soybean oil.

[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more plant oils. When they are present, the total content of plant oil(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] When they are present, the total content of sunflower seed oil, soybean oil or mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Fatty acid ester of C1-C5 alcoholThe composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more esters derived from an alcohol comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and from a carboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, referred to hereinbelow as “fatty acid esters of C1-C5 alcohol”.

[0113] These esters are non-silicone esters (they do not comprise any Si-O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0114] Preferably, the alcohol from which the ester that may be used according to the invention is derived is a saturated, linear or branched alcohol including from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 5 carbon atoms. More preferentially, this alcohol is saturated, branched, and includes from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0115] Preferably, the carboxylic acid from which the ester that can be used according to the invention is derived is saturated, linear or branched, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably saturated monocarboxylic acids.

[0116] Among the fatty acid esters of C1-C5 alcohol that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, more preferentially isopropyl myristate.

[0117] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acid esters of C1-C5 alcohol.

[0118] When they are present, the total content of fatty acid esters of C1-C5 alcohol in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] When it is present, the total content of isopropyl myristate in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] PolyolsThe composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.

[0121] The polyols are different from the fatty alcohols described previously.

[0122] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) below: (IV)in which formula (IV):- R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical or a C1 to C6 mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,- A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl groups, and- m denotes 0 or 1.

[0123] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) in which m has the value 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0124] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from the polyols of formula (IV), in which m has the value 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be chosen from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product known as PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA publication (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).

[0125] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from the polyols of formula (IV), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1to C6alkyl radical, the molecular weight of which is less than 200, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferentially between 60 and 200 and better still between 70 and 150.

[0127] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from compounds of formula (IV) in which R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerol, caprylyl glycol, or mixtures thereof, better still glycerol.

[0129] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more polyols.

[0130] When they are present, the total content of the polyol(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, and better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] When they are present, the total content of the polyol(s) chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) in which m = 0 preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] When they are present, the total content of glycerol, caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] NiacinamideThe composition according to the invention may also comprise niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).

[0134] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.

[0135] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises niacinamide.

[0136] Preferably, when it is present, the total content of niacinamide ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Cationic polymersThe composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers different from the preceding compounds.

[0138] The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0139] The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any silicon atoms).

[0140] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g. The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0141] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106approximately and preferably between 103and 3×106approximately.

[0142] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:

[0143] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae: in which:- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0144] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0145] - R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0146] - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0147] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0148] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0149] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0150] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0151] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

[0152] - the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0153] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

[0154] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0155] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

[0156] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0157] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;

[0158] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0159] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0160] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0161] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0162] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0163] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 (sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch) and the product having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0164] Mention may also be made most particularly of hydroxyethylcelluloses which have reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryldimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name Polyquaternium-67), notably sold by the company Dow under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL-100.

[0165] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0166] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0167] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0168] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0169] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0170] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized;

[0171] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0172] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0173] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): in which- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0174] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0175] - R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote C1-C6 alkyl group, C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0176] - Y-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0177] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0178] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: in which:- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;

[0179] or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[0180] or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0181] - A1 and B1 represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0182] X-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0183] it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0184] in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0185] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0186] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

[0187] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

[0188] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0189] Preferably, X-is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

[0190] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula: in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0191] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0192] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula: in which:- R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0193] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0194] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0195] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0196] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0197] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0198] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0199] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0200] (12) polymers including in their structure:(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0201] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

[0202] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0203] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0204] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0205] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0206] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer, preferentially a cationic polysaccharide, more preferentially chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums, better still, the products having the INCI names “Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride” and “Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride”. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the product having the INCI name “Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride”.

[0208] When they are present, the total content of cationic polymers in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] When they are present, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s), notably of cationic guar gums, in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] When it is present, the total content of Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] Anionic surfactantThe composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants in an amount not exceeding 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactants.

[0212] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0213] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0214] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these anionic surfactants may be used.

[0215] It is understood in the present description that:

[0216] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0217] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

[0218] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0219] AdditivesThe composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds described previously, chosen from antioxidants, reducing agents, oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-relaxing agents, chelating agents, softeners, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, dyestuffs, nacreous agents, opacifiers, micas, nacres, glitter flakes, plasticizers or coalescers, film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, solid fatty substances, basifying or acidifying agents, viscosity agents and preserving agents.

[0220] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the composition of the present invention.

[0221] These additional compounds may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprises:

[0223] (i) at least one antidandruff active agent, preferably chosen from selenium (poly)sulfides, 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof, preferably 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, notably piroctone olamine, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0224] (ii) at least one fatty amine, preferably a fatty amidoamine, better still stearamidopropyldimethylamine, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0225] (iii) at least one fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester, preferably a solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester and at least one liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester, better still the compounds having the INCI name “Cetyl esters” and the compounds having the INCI name “Cocoyl caprylate / caprate”, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0226] (iv) at least one fatty alcohol, preferably a solid fatty alcohol, better still a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0227] it being understood that the composition is free of silicone.

[0228] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, also comprises:

[0229] (v) at least one plant oil, preferably chosen from sunflower seed oil, soybean oil and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0230] (vi) at least one fatty acid ester of a C1-C5 alcohol, preferably isopropyl myristate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0231] (vii) at least one polyol, preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) in which m = 0, better still glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0232] (viii) niacinamide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight and better still from 0.08% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0233] (ix) at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from cationic guar gums, preferentially “Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride”, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, advantageously ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 7 and better still from 3.5 to 6.

[0235] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are customarily used. Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0236] The haircare compositions according to the invention may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks, serums and leave-on haircare products. Preferably, the composition is a hair conditioner or a mask.

[0237] The cosmetic composition may be thus rinsed off or left on after having been applied to the keratin fibres, for example rinsed off with water, after an optional leave-on time. The composition is preferably rinsed off.

[0238] A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp, and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0239] Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp, and the hair.

[0240] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0241] EXEMPLE 1Composition A1 as described in Table 1 below was prepared. The amounts are expressed in g of active material (% AM), unless otherwise mentioned.

[0242] CompositionsA1(invention)Piroctone olamine0.4Cetearyl alcohol4.5Cetyl esters0.5Stearamidopropyldimethylamine1Cocoyl caprylate / caprate0.5Isopropyl myristate2Soybean oil1Sunflower seed oil0.5Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride0.05Glycerol3Salicylic acid0.2Niacinamide0.11pH adjusterqs pH 4± 0.5Preserving agent(s)qsWaterqs 100

[0243] The composition according to the invention gives treated hair excellent cosmetic properties, notably in terms of disentangling and manageability. In addition, it limits the regreasing of the hair and improves the barrier function of the scalp.

Claims

Cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising:a) at least one antidandruff active agent, preferably chosen from selenium (poly)sulfides, 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof;b) at least one fatty amine;c) at least one fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester; andd) at least one fatty alcohol;said composition being silicone-free.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the antidandruff active agent a) is chosen from compounds of formula (A1) and salts thereof:(A1)in which:- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, notably C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group containing 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group containing 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above possibly being substituted with one or more alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or else one or more alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group;- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; and- R4 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group,more preferentially, the antidandruff active agent a) is chosen from 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2.4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridone, 6-cyclohexyl-1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(1H)-pyridone and salts thereof; more preferentially, the antidandruff active agent a) is piroctone olamine.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of antidandruff active agent(s) a) ranges from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 0.45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty amine(s) b) are chosen from fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines and a mixture of these compounds; and in particular from:(i) the amidoamines of formula A: RCONHR’’N(R’)2 (A)in which:- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups; preferably a linear or branched C5-C29 and better still C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a C5-C29 and better still C7-C23 alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched C7-C23 radical, which is saturated or comprises a double unsaturation (C=C);- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, which is preferably linear, containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;better still from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof;(ii) the tertiary fatty amines of formula (B): RN(R’)2 in which:- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30 and better still C8-C24 alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30 and preferably C8-C24 alkenyl radical; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical;better still from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty amine(s) b) are chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferentially from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, better still stearamidopropyldimethylamine, and / or the total content of fatty amine(s) b) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty acid-fatty alcohol ester(s) c) are chosen from solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters; liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters; and mixtures thereof, preferentially a mixture of solid and liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to Claim, 6 in which:- the solid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters are chosen from esters of a saturated monocarboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and of a saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and- the liquid fatty acid-fatty alcohol esters are chosen from liquid fatty esters of monoacids and monoalcohols, preferably those for which the alcohol and acid from which the ester is derived are both linear, better still C10-C18alkyl caprylates, C10-C18alkyl caprates, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty alcohol d) is chosen from solid fatty alcohols, preferably solid fatty alcohols of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group (not substituted with one or more OH groups), comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of fatty alcohol(s) d) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more plant oils, preferably chosen from sunflower seed oil, soybean oil and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more fatty acid esters of C1-C5 alcohol, preferably chosen from esters for which the alcohol is saturated, branched and includes from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight and better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a polyol, preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) below:(IV)in which formula (IV):- R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical or a C1 to C6 mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,- A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl groups, and- m denotes 0 or 1; preferentially, m is equal to 0;preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of polyol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises niacinamide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cationic polymer preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, more preferentially cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.03% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic surfactants in an amount not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition does not include any anionic surfactants.Cosmetic treatment process, preferably for keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.Use of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 16 for cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair.

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