Composition comprising at least one specific Anti-dandruff active agent, several anionic surfactants and at least 5% by weight of polyol
The composition with β-hydroxy acids, anionic surfactants, and polyols addresses scalp discomfort and dandruff, improving hair cosmetic properties and application ease for curly hair.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing haircare products do not adequately address scalp discomfort and dandruff while providing satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially for curly hair, and lack a suitable liquid presentation form for easy application.
A composition comprising β-hydroxy acids, carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants, α-olefin sulfonates, and polyols, which provides smooth feel, suppleness, manageability, and disentangling properties, with good foaming properties for easy application on the scalp.
The composition effectively reduces or eliminates scalp desquamation, enhances hair cosmetic properties, and facilitates application on curly hair by offering a liquid form with good foaming properties.
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Figure PCTXMLIB-APPB-I000001 
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Abstract
Description
Composition comprising at least one specific anti-dandruff active agent, several anionic surfactants and at least 5% by weight of polyol
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one specific anti-dandruff active agent, several anionic surfactants and at least 5% by weight polyol.
[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using this composition and to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.
[0003] Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing, or even repeated washing.
[0004] Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, in particular in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.
[0005] In addition, consumers may experience problems of scalp discomfort and / or desquamation leading to the appearance of dandruff.
[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to use haircare products that include compositions intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smooth feel (softness), suppleness, manageability and good disentangling properties, and that provide short-term effects for dealing with the problems of scalp discomfort and limiting the presence of dandruff.
[0007] However, the existing products on the market are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and can still be improved, notably with regard to the cosmetic properties. In addition, these products do not always have a sufficiently liquid presentation form, suitable for curly hair. Indeed, in the presence of curly hair, the scalp is less accessible and spreading the composition over the entire scalp is actually more difficult.
[0008] There is therefore a real need to provide a composition that makes it possible to reduce or even eliminate the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort and / or desquamation, while maintaining good cosmetic properties for the hair and roots, particularly in terms of smooth feel (softness), suppleness, manageability and disentangling. In addition, it is important that the compositions have a sufficiently liquid presentation form with good foaming properties to facilitate the application of the composition on the scalp, particularly for people with curly hair.
[0009] It has surprisingly been discovered that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.Disclosure of the invention
[0010] A subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising:a) at least one anti-dandruff active agent chosen from β-hydroxy acids,b) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants,c) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from α-olefin sulfonates, andd) at least 5% by weight of polyol.
[0011] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide good cosmetic properties to the keratin fibres, such as a smooth feel (softness), suppleness, manageability and ease of disentangling.
[0012] The composition also has a sufficiently liquid presentation form with good foaming properties to facilitate the application of the composition on the scalp.
[0013] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to reduce, or even eliminate, scalp desquamation.
[0014] Another subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0015] The present invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, notably curly hair.
[0016] The expression “at least one” means one or more.
[0017] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0018] The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “the hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes.
[0020] Anti-dandruff active agentAs indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anti-dandruff active agent chosen from β-hydroxy acids.
[0021] An “anti-dandruff active agent” is understood as meaning any compound that prevents or limits excessive, visible desquamation of the scalp.
[0022] A “β-hydroxy acid” is understood as meaning, in accordance with the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxyl functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0023] Suitable β-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, β-hydroxypropionic acid, β-hydroxybutyric acid, β-hydroxy-β-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, derivatives thereof and combinations thereof.
[0024] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and the derivative thereof of formula (I): in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11, carbon atoms and may be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in a form esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function that is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0025] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula: in which R1is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0026] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid.
[0027] More preferentially, the β-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0028] Preferably, the β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0029] Advantageously, the β-hydroxy acid is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.8% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] Preferably, the total content of salicylic acid ranges from 0.3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.8% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] Additional anti-dandruff active agentThe composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional anti-dandruff active agent, preferentially chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, ellagic acid and derivatives thereof, pyrithione and derivatives thereof and selenium polysulfides, preferably 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof.
[0032] The 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (A1) and salts thereof: (A1)in which:- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, notably C6-C12; a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, the cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl or aralkyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an aryl-alkenyl group, the aryl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl and aryl groups as defined above may be substituted with one or more alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or else one or more alkoxy groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0033] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a halogen atom or a benzyl group;
[0034] - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; and
[0035] - R4 denotes a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkenyl group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; a methoxymethyl group; a halogen atom or a benzyl group.
[0036] Preferably, R2 = R4 = H.
[0037] Preferably, R3 = methyl.
[0038] Preferably, R1 is a branched C6-C12 alkyl radical.
[0039] Among these compounds, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridone and 6-cyclohexyl-1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-(1H)-pyridone are preferred.
[0040] Among the salts which can be used, mention may be made of the salts of lower (C1-C4) alkanolamines, such as ethanolamine and diethanolamine, amine or alkylamine salts, and also salts with inorganic cations, for instance ammonium salts, alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts.
[0041] Preference is very particularly given to the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or Octopirox).
[0042] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional anti-dandruff active agent chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, more particularly piroctone olamine, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0043] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise an additional anti-dandruff active agent.
[0044] Carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactantsThe composition according to the invention comprises at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants of carboxylate or carboxylic type, referred to as carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants.
[0045] An “anionic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0046] The anionic surfactants are preferably non-silicone surfactants.
[0047] In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0048] It is understood in the present description that the carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxyl or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-), but do not comprise a sulfonate function or a sulfate function.
[0049] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0050] Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
[0051] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may very particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the AKYPO names. The term "polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids" is understood to mean polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids and polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids.
[0052] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):
[0053] R1’–(OC2H4)n’–OCH2COOA (1)in which:- R1’ represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2’CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2’ denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, R1’ is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;- n’ is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
[0054] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different R1’ groups.
[0055] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
[0056] - R1’ denotes a linear or branched C8-C22, in particular C12-C20 or even C12-C14 alkyl radical, or alternatively a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;
[0057] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
[0058] - n’ ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
[0059] More preferentially still, use is made of the compounds of formula (1) in which R1’ denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n’ ranges from 2 to 10.
[0060] Better still, use is made of compounds of formula (1) in which R1’ denotes a C12-C14 alkyl radical, preferably lauryl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n’ ranges from 4 to 5.
[0061] Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by Kao under the names:
[0062] AKYPO® NP 70 (R1’ = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)AKYPO® NP 40 (R1’ = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)AKYPO®OP 40 (R1’ = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)AKYPO® OP 80 (R1’ = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)AKYPO® OP 190 (R1’ = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)AKYPO® RLM 38 (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4, A = H)AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4, A = Na)AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na)AKYPO® RLM 100 (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 10, A = H)AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 10, A = Na)AKYPO® RLM 130 (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 13, A = H)AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 16, A = Na),or by SANDOZ under the names:SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R1’ = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = H)SANDOPAN DTC (R1’ = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = Na)SANDOPAN LS 24 (R1’ = C12-C14 alkyl, n = 12, A = Na)SANDOPAN JA 36 (R1’ = C13 alkyl, n = 18, A = H),and more particularly, products sold under the following names: AKYPO® RLM 45 CA, AKYPO®RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.
[0063] Preferentially, the carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0064] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;
[0065] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
[0066] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate;
[0067] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acylglycinates;
[0068] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, and notably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
[0069] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
[0070] in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
[0071] Preferably, use is made of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, more preferentially polyoxyalkylenated (C12-C20)alkyl acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, better still laureth-5 carboxylic acid (INCI name: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid).
[0072] Preferably, the total content of carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) in the composition is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] Preferably, the total content of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and of salts thereof in the composition is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] Preferably, the total content of laureth-5 carboxylic acid (INCI name: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid) in the composition is in the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] α-Olefin sulfonatesThe composition according to the invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from α-olefin sulfonates.
[0076] Preferably, the second anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates.
[0077] Preferably, the second anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and very particularly from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0078] The α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention may optionally be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0079] Olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are notably described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry or else in patent US8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain α-olefins.
[0080] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, notably of formula (A), optionally as a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, notably of formula (B).
[0081] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates are of formula (A): (A)in which:- R represents a saturated linear alkyl group containing from 5 to 30 carbon atoms;- n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better still equal to 1 or 2, better still again equal to 2; and- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine.
[0082] Preferably, the radical R in formula (A) represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 21, more preferentially from 9 to 19, more preferentially still from 11 to 15, carbon atoms.
[0083] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) are in the form of an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt; more preferentially in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt.
[0084] More preferentially, the linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention are of formula (A’): (A’)in which:- R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0085] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from the linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) above.
[0086] More preferentially still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from the linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A’) above.
[0087] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula (B):R’-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n’-SO3-M’+(B)in which:- R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms;- n’ is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better still equal to 1 or 2, better still again equal to 2; and- M’+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0088] More preferentially, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula (B’): (B’)in which:- R’ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;- M’+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0089] Preferably, R and R’ are identical.
[0090] Preferably, M and M’ are identical.
[0091] Very preferentially, the second anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, better still again from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt.
[0092] Commercial products that may notably be mentioned include those sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40A or Bio-Terge AS-40HA by the company Stepan, or Calsoft AOS-40 by the company Pilot Chemical, or else Nansa LSS38 / AV by the company Huntsman.
[0093] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from α-olefin sulfonates present in the composition is in the range extending from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0094] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates present in the composition is in the range extending from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 9% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from linear alkene sulfonate(s) of formula (A) in the composition is in the range extending from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 9% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) chosen from linear alkene sulfonate(s) of formula (A’) in the composition is in the range extending from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 9% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] PolyolsThe composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more polyols.
[0098] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) below: (IV)in which formula (IV):- R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical or a C1 to C6 monohydroxyalkyl or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
[0099] - A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl group, and
[0100] - m denotes 0 or 1.
[0101] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) in which m is 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
[0102] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (IV), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be chosen from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product known as PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA publication (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).
[0103] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (IV), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and in which the molecular weight is less than 200, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
[0104] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferentially between 60 and 200 and better still between 70 and 150.
[0105] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from compounds of formula (IV) in which R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, glycerol and mixtures thereof.
[0106] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol or propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially, the polyol is glycerol.
[0107] In the composition according to the invention, the total content of the polyol(s) preferably ranges from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, and better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols chosen from polyols of formula (IV) in which m = 0 in a total amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, and better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerol in a total amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, and better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] NiacinamideThe composition according to the invention may further comprise niacinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide).
[0111] Niacinamide is also known as nicotinamide.
[0112] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises niacinamide.
[0113] Preferably, when it is present, the total content of niacinamide ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] Nonionic surfactantsThe composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.
[0115] The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.
[0116] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:- oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8 to C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8 to C30 fatty acid amides;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated;- fatty acid esters of sucrose;- C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;- oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;- (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides and (C8-C30)alkenyl (poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucoside esters;- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;- condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;- N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;- amine oxides.
[0117] The nonionic surfactants may be selected from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0118] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides having preferably from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0119] Mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8 to C40 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and including at least one C8-C20 and notably C10-C18 alkyl chain; notably lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4).
[0120] Among the esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, mention may be made of esters of a C8 to C30 acid, preferably C12 to C22, acid and of polyethylene glycols, comprising from 1 to 100 mol, preferably from 2 to 80, more particularly from 2 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide, which are optionally oxypropylenated, in particular PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate.
[0121] The C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from:sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and sorbitan tristearate.
[0122] The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (notably monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:- polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21),- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-20),- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (Polysorbate-40),- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-60),- polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monostearate(Polysorbate-61),- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-80),- polyoxyethylenated (5 EO) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-81),- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan tristearate (Polysorbate-65),- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate-85).
[0123] The hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils may be oils such as sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, and Brazil nut oil. In particular, hydrogenated plant oils that may be mentioned include hydrogenated palm oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
[0124] The number of moles of ethylene oxide in the oxyethylenated plant oils may range from 2 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100, preferably from 20 to 80.
[0125] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.
[0126] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0127] More preferentially still, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil), PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Preferably, when present, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] When present, the total content of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils, of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] When present, the total content of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, or mixtures thereof, preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Amphoteric surfactant
[0131] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants; zwitterionic surfactants are included in the definition of amphoteric surfactants.
[0132] The amphoteric surfactant(s) may notably be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0133] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may be made of the compounds having the respective formulae (1) and (3) below:
[0134] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(1)in which:- Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,- Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;- M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and- X-represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;
[0135] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (2)in which:- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';- B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;- X' represents the group -CH2COOH, CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ’, -CH2CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2CH(OH)SO3Z’;- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
[0136] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0137] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
[0138] Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (3)in which:- Y’’ represents the group –COOH, -COOZ’’, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’;- Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;- Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra’’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’’-COOH preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;- n and n’, independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0139] Among the compounds of formula (3), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
[0140] The amphoteric surfactant(s) can also be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkyl sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkyl sulfobetaines.
[0141] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.
[0142] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, the compounds of formula (1) and the compounds of formula (2) as defined previously.
[0143] Better still, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines such as coco betaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof; even better still, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0144] When present, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] When present, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, the compounds of formula (1) and the compounds of formula (2), in the composition according to the invention, ranges preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] Better still, when present, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention, ranges preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] Even better still, when present, the total content of the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, in the composition according to the invention, ranges preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] Cationic polymersThe term “cationic polymer” means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
[0149] The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any silicon atoms).
[0150] The cationic polymers that may be employed preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g. The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
[0151] The cationic polymers which can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106approximately and preferably between 103and 3×106approximately.
[0152] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:
[0153] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units of the following formulae: in which:- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3radical;
[0154] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0155] - R4, R5and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0156] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0157] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0158] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0159] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
[0160] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules;
[0161] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy;
[0162] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by Hercules;
[0163] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937;
[0164] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP;
[0165] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
[0166] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by ISP;
[0167] - polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
[0168] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
[0169] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0170] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597. They are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0171] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.
[0172] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose.
[0173] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 (sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch) and the product with the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.
[0174] Mention may also very particularly be made of hydroxyethyl celluloses which have reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryldimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name Polyquaternium-67), in particular sold by the company Dow under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL-100.
[0175] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium, notably trimethylammonium, groups. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
[0176] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.
[0177] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.
[0178] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride;
[0179] (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;
[0180] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
[0181] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;
[0182] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer;
[0183] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): in which- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
[0184] - R12denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0185] - R10and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10and R11may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4alkyl group;
[0186] - Y-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0187] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;
[0188] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: in which:- R13, R14, R15and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;
[0189] or else R13, R14, R15and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;
[0190] or else R13, R14, R15and R16represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0191] - A1and B1represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
[0192] - X-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0193] it being understood that A1, R13and R15can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
[0194] in addition, if A1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
[0195] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0196] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
[0197] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
[0198] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0199] Preferably, X-is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
[0200] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula: in which R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X-is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0201] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which R1, R2, R3and R4represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine Chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;
[0202] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula: in which:- R18, R19, R20and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20and R21do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0203] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
[0204] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0205] - X-denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0206] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0207] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
[0208] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF;
[0209] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
[0210] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0211] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
[0212] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
[0213] In other words, these polymers may in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0214] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
[0215] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
[0216] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.
[0217] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
[0218] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer, preferentially a cationic polysaccharide, more preferentially chosen from cationic celluloses, better still the polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
[0219] When they are present, the total content of cationic polymers in the composition according to the invention ranges preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] When they are present, the total content of cationic celluloses in the composition according to the invention ranges preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] When it is present, the total content of Polyquaternium-67 in the composition according to the invention ranges preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] AdditivesThe composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional compounds, different from the compounds described above, chosen from antioxidants, reducing agents, oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes, hair-relaxing agents, chelating agents, softeners, moisturizers, UV sunscreens, solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, colorants, nacreous agents, opacifiers, micas, nacres, glitter flakes, plasticizers, coalescers, film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, solid fatty substances, alkalinizing or acidifying agents, viscosity agents and preservatives.
[0223] A person skilled in the art will take care to select any optional additional compounds and the amount thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition of the present invention.
[0224] These additional compounds may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0225] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprises:
[0226] (i) at least one anti-dandruff active agent chosen from β-hydroxy acids, preferably salicylic acid, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.8% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0227] (ii) optionally at least one additional anti-dandruff active agent chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, more preferentially the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or Octopirox), preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0228] (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably laureth-5 carboxylic acid (INCI name: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0229] (iv) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A’): (A’)in which:- R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium,preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 9% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0230] (v) at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more polyols chosen from polyols of formula (IV) in which m = 0, preferably glycerol, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0231] In an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprises:
[0232] (i’) at least one anti-dandruff active agent chosen from β-hydroxy acids, preferably salicylic acid, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.8% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0233] (ii’) at least one additional anti-dandruff active agent chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, more preferentially the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or Octopirox), preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0234] (iii’) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, preferably laureth-5 carboxylic acid (INCI name: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0235] (iv’) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A’): (A’)in which:- R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium,preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 9% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0236] (v’) at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more polyols chosen from polyols of formula (IV) in which m = 0, preferably glycerol, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 7% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0237] it being understood that the weight ratio of the total content of α-olefin sulfonate(s) c) to the total content of carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, better still ranges from 2 to 5, even better still ranges from 2 to 3.
[0238] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, further comprises:
[0239] (vi) niacinamide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight and better still from 0.08% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0240] (vii) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, preferably PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0241] (viii) at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, and mixtures thereof, preferably cocamidopropyl betaine, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or
[0242] (ix) at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic celluloses, preferably polyquaternium-67, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0243] The pH of the composition according to the invention, when it is aqueous, varies advantageously from 4 to 9, preferably from 4.5 to 7, better still from 4.7 to 6.
[0244] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value with the aid of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents in common use. Examples of alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines and mineral or organic hydroxides. Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0245] The haircare compositions according to the invention can be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and leave-on haircare products. Preferably, the composition is a conditioning shampoo.
[0246] The cosmetic composition may be thus rinsed off or left on after having been applied to the keratin fibres, for example rinsed off with water, after an optional leave-on time. The composition is preferably rinsed off.
[0247] Another subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0248] A further subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, notably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and hair.
[0249] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, alternative forms and preferred embodiments of the invention.EXAMPLE 1
[0250] Compositions A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM) unless otherwise mentioned.
[0251] CompositionsA1(invention)A2(invention)A3(invention)A4(comparative)A5(invention)Salicylic acid a)1.91111Piroctone olamine-0.50.50.50.5Laureth-5 carboxylic acid b)22223.5Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate c)4.94.94.94.93.5Glycerol1010737PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil0.20.20.20.20.2PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate0.20.20.20.20.2Cocamidopropyl betaine4.64.64.64.64.6Polyquaternium-670.150.150.150.150.15Niacinamide0.110.50.50.50.5Propylene glycol0.20.20.20.20.2pH adjusterqs pH 5.2 ± 0.3qs pH 5.2 ± 0.3qs pH 5.2 ± 0.3qs pH 5.2 ± 0.3qs pH = 5.2 ± 0.3Preservative, viscosity agentqsqsqsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100qs 100qs 100qs 100c) / b) weight ratio2.452.452.452.451
[0252] Thus, compositions A1, A2 and A3 are 3 compositions according to the invention. They make it possible to significantly reduce the undesirable effects of scalp discomfort and desquamation, while at the same time having satisfactory cosmetic properties. In particular, it has been observed that these compositions provided the treated hair with good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of smooth feel (softness), suppleness, manageability and disentangling.
[0253] Trained experts observed the effects of the compositions according to the invention and of the comparative composition on wet hair and on dry hair. In particular, compositions A2, A3 and A4 were applied to a half-head of a mannequin head of natural hair in a proportion of 6 g of composition per half-head; the half-heads were rinsed and then dried with a hairdryer for about 15 minutes (at a temperature of 50-90°C, minimum distance of 15 cm), so as to obtain a dry head of hair.Evaluation of foam build-up
[0254] It was observed that compositions A2 and A3 according to the invention had good foaming properties, such as the initiation, abundance and quality of the foam.
[0255] On the other hand, the foam of comparative composition A4 was less stable and broke more quickly.Sensory and visual evaluations
[0256] Evaluation of the disentangling on wet hair
[0257] The expert slides a comb through the hair prepared according to the previous protocol from root to tip. The sooner the comb gets stuck, the more difficult it will be to disentangle the lock. It was observed that the hair treated with compositions A2 and A3 had better disentangling properties than the hair treated with composition A4.
[0258] Tactile evaluation: smooth feel criterion on dry hair
[0259] The performance in terms of smooth feel (softness) on locks of dry hair treated with compositions A2, A3 and A4 was evaluated by 5 experts.
[0260] The smoothness evaluation is tactile: the expert takes a lock of hair at the root on the mannequin half-head and slides it through the fingers to the ends (the operation is repeated at several places on the half-head). The expert evaluates whether the hair is uniform, homogeneous from the root to the end, whether or not it has any rough patches, and whether or not the fingers catch on the hair. The performance was evaluated in a blind test in which each of the 5 experts assigned a score ranging from 0 (presence of a lot of rough patches) to 5 (no rough patches) to each of the locks of hair.
[0261] The results are collated in Table 2 below.
[0262] CompositionA2 (invention)A3 (invention)A4 (comparative)Average of the scores assigned by the experts3.83.12.4
[0263] It is observed that the locks of hair treated with the compositions A2 and A3 according to the invention have a much improved smooth feel compared with the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition A4.
[0264] In addition, the hair treated with compositions A2 and A3 was more manageable than the hair treated with composition A4; the hair was visually less frizzy.
[0265] Evaluation of the disentangling
[0266] Five trained experts observed the effects of the compositions according to the invention and the comparative composition on dry hair. In particular, compositions A3 and A5 were applied to a half-head of a mannequin head of natural hair in a proportion of 6 g of composition per half-head; the half-heads were then rinsed and dried. The disentangling is evaluated on dry hair. More particularly, the expert slides a comb from the root to the tip of the hair. The sooner the comb gets stuck, the more difficult it will be to disentangle the lock. It was observed that the hair treated with composition A3 had better disentangling properties than the hair treated with composition A5.
Claims
1.Composition comprising:a) at least one anti-dandruff active agent chosen from β-hydroxy acids,b) at least one first anionic surfactant chosen from carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants,c) at least one second anionic surfactant chosen from α-olefin sulfonates, andd) at least 5% by weight of polyol.2.Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the anti-dandruff active agent a) is chosen from salicylic acid and the derivative thereof of formula (I): in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11, carbon atoms and may be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in a form esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function that is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula: in which R1is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,more preferentially, the anti-dandruff active agent a) is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and combinations thereof, more preferentially the anti-dandruff active agent a) is salicylic acid.3.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of anti-dandruff active agent(s) a) ranges from 0.3% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.8% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.4.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional anti-dandruff active agent, preferably chosen from 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, ellagic acid and derivatives thereof, pyrithione and derivatives thereof and selenium polysulfides, more preferentially 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone derivatives and salts thereof, better still the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridinone (more commonly known as piroctone olamine or Octopirox), preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.5.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants b) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates; acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates; acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates; C6-C24, notably C12-C20 acyl glycinates; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, notably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, notably those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; said compounds being in the acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or aminoalcohol salts, more preferably still, the carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants b) are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, notably polyoxyalkylenated (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, better still laureth-5 carboxylic acid (INCI name: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid).6.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of carboxylate or carboxylic anionic surfactants b) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.7.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the α-olefin sulfonates c) are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates, preferably from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A) below: (A)in which:- R represents a saturated linear alkyl group containing from 5 to 30 carbon atoms;- n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better still equal to 1 or 2, better still again equal to 2; and- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine;preferably, the radical R in formula (A) represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 21, more preferentially from 9 to 19, more preferentially still from 11 to 15, carbon atoms.8.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of α-olefin sulfonates c) is in the range extending from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 2% to 9% by weight, even better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.9.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol d) is chosen from the polyols of formula (IV) below: (IV)in which formula (IV):- R'1, R'2, R'3and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical or a C1 to C6 monohydroxyalkyl or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,- A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl group, and- m denotes 0 or 1, preferentially m is 0;preferably, the polyol d) is chosen from glycerol or propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the polyol is glycerol.10.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of polyol(s) d) ranges from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.11.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises niacinamide, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.07% to 2.5% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.12.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, oxyethylenated plant oils, notably oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still from PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.13.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant, preferably chosen from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines such as coco betaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still cocamidopropyl betaine, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight and better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.14.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic polymer preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, more preferentially cationic celluloses, better still polyquaternium-67, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.15.Process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin materials such as the scalp and the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.