Composition comprising an oxidation dye and / or an alkaline agent, a quaternary ester and a cationic galactomannan gum
A composition of oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, and cationic galactomannan gum with cationic surfactants addresses selectivity and persistence issues in hair dyeing, offering sustainable and effective hair color solutions with improved application and hair health benefits.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions suffer from issues such as poor selectivity, color intensity, chromaticity, and persistence, along with adverse effects on hair health and environmental impact, necessitating the development of more sustainable and effective dyeing solutions.
A composition comprising oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic galactomannan gum, and cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, which provides improved dyeing properties, environmental friendliness, and enhanced hair care benefits.
The composition achieves low selectivity, intense and long-lasting color with good fastness, smooth application, and improved scalp comfort, while being environmentally friendly and gentle on hair.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE AND / OR AN ALKALINE AGENT, A QUATERNARY ESTER AND A CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing and hair lightening. It aims to propose a composition capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for dyeing and / or for artificially lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
[0003] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye and / or alkaline agent, a cationic polysaccharide and a cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0004] The invention also relates to a process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of the composition according to the invention, and also a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.
[0005] It is known practice to dye keratin fibres and in particular human hair with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation bases, especially ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
[0006] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or colouring modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
[0007] The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
[0008] “Permanent” dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursor(s) (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). In order to be considered as efficient dyeing, the latter needs to satisfy certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity with colour differences, between the tip and the root of the same lock (also known as the selectivity), which are as small as possible.The colouring must also be resistant over time and must not become degraded in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, bad weather, rubbing and perspiration.
[0009] However, the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, especially in terms of selectivity, colour build-up, chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence, in particular with respect to successive shampoo washes, or of resistance to light or to perspiration.
[0010] Also, the hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated colouring operations, such that users also often resort to separate hair care operations in order to condition the hair. This treatment of the hair in two separate steps (dyeing, then conditioning) is more complicated to set up, time-consuming and expensive for the user.
[0011] In addition, current hair dye compositions generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that sometimes makes it difficult to distribute homogeneously over the keratin fibres (dripping), in particular the hair.
[0012] These findings are behind the interest in developing new compositions which can serve as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for the dyeing of keratin fibres, making it possible to obtain colouring of keratin fibres that has low selectivity (i.e. is homogeneous from root to tip), is intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up, and which are capable of leading to colouring that is resistant to the various attacks to which the fibres may be subjected, such as bad weather, washing and perspiration, and also capable of resulting in good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
[0013] It is also of interest that these new compositions be gentle on the scalp, that they have good use properties such as having a pleasant odour, a pleasant texture, that they be easy to apply, and that they also impart care / conditioning properties to the keratin fibres, more particularly a soft feel, suppleness, sheen and / or a smooth feel.
[0014] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products, the design and the development of which take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in contributing towards meeting global challenges.
[0015] It is thus proving essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.
[0016] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, especially by promoting the use of starting materials that arerenewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0017] These aims are achieved with the present invention, a subject of which is in particular a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0018] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0019] (ii) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and
[0020] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0021] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained has low selectivity with good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.
[0022] The keratin fibre colourings obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, bad weather, rubbing, perspiration), and especially persistent with respect to several shampoo washes.
[0023] The compositions according to the invention have good use qualities and good cosmetic properties, in particular an agreeable odour and a texture which differs from the hair dyeing compositions usually used, with a creamy texture and spreading particularly smoothly on application, in particular in contact with keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0024] The compositions according to the invention successfully exhibit a firm texture which spreads smoothly on application, while at the same time enabling homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no dripping), in particular keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0025] It has been found that the compositions according to the invention result in good scalp comfort during application.
[0026] It has also been found that the hair thus treated is particularly glossy, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.
[0027] In addition, the compositions according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.A subject of the invention is also a process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention.
[0028] A subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition.
[0029] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.
[0030] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0031] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;
[0032] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
[0033] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and, respectively, the expression “less than” are understood to mean an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included; - according to the present patent application, “keratin fibres” is understood more particularly to mean human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, more preferentially still the hair;
[0034] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term '^hair" is understood to mean head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes.
[0035] - according to the present patent application, “fatty acid” is understood to mean an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0036] - according to the present patent application “fatty alcohol” is understood to mean an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0037] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;- for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30.
[0038] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
[0039] In other words, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one beneficial agent chosen from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] According to a first embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:
[0041] (i) at least one oxidation dye,
[0042] (ii) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and
[0043] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0044] According to a second embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:
[0045] (i) at least one alkaline agent,
[0046] (ii) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and
[0047] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0048] According to a third embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:
[0049] (i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent,
[0050] (ii) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and
[0051] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0052] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent.
[0053] All of the features and preferences described below apply, independently of one another, to all of the embodiments (first, second and third) above.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free. The term “silicone-free” is understood to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0%).
[0054] The term “silicone” is understood to mean any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being bonded directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
[0055] The oxidation dyes
[0056] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one oxidation dye.
[0057] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
[0058] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0060] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0061] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0062] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with alinear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0063] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para- aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts.
[0064] Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl / pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts thereof.
[0065] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts thereof.Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)- 1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0066] Para-aminophenols that are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0067] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0068] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0069] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0070] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 - aminopyrazolo [1,5- a]pyrid-7 -yl)methanol, 2- (3 - aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3 ,6-diaminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxy ethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridin-7 -ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0071] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with:
[0072] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxy, amino or imidazolium group;
[0073] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci -Chalky Ipiperazinium group; or
[0074] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups, such as a P -hydroxy alkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0075] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0076] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4.5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4.5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino- l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
[0077] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and more preferentially still 4.5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0078] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)-6,7 -dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-diethyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.
[0079] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0080] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0082] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0083] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
[0084] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0085] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0086] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethylamino)- 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0087] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0088] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0089] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0090] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
[0093] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0095] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one direct dye.
[0096] These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0097] The term “direct dye" is understood to mean coloured species. These are dyes which will spread superficially over the fibre.
[0098] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino / benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-5 -nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-methoxy-2- P-hydroxy ethylamino- 5 -nitrobenzene ; 1 - P-hydroxy ethyloxy- 3 -methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0100] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0101] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87. Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 2- nitrophenylenediamine .
[0102] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0103] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxyethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0104] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’ -methylamino )phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.
[0105] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leucoindigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamin, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
[0106] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, aesculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
[0107] When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0108] The alkaline agents
[0109] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0110] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “basifying agent” are used without distinction.
[0111] The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium(hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
[0112] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] The term “alkanolamine” is understood to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0114] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are suitable in particular for carrying out the invention.
[0115] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
[0116] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0117] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine, which has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.
[0118] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.As hybrid compounds, use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
[0119] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and better still yet ammonium hydroxide.
[0120] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of alkaline agent(s) is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0121] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0122] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0123] The cationic polysaccharides
[0124] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polysaccharide” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer of polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0125] The cationic polysaccharides are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-0 units).
[0126] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in the composition according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0127] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in the composition according to the invention are different from the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type described above and from the cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type as described below.
[0128] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymer other than the cationic polysaccharides.
[0129] The expression “free of cationic polymer other than the cationic polysaccharides" is understood to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in the present patent application. In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably does not comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in the present patent application.
[0130] The term “cationic polymer” is understood to mean any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0131] The cationic galactomannan gums are in particular described in patents US3589578 and US4031307 ; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, in particular those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
[0132] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. More preferentially still, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may mostparticularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. More preferentially still, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.
[0133] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.
[0134] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, particularly those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0135] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially from non-associative cationic polysaccharides.
[0136] The term “associative polysaccharide” is understood to mean polysaccharide polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. The associative polysaccharides more particularly comprise at least one hydrophobic group.
[0137] The term “hydrophobic group” is understood to mean a radical or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0138] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon chain originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
[0139] More preferentially, the cationic galactomannan gum(s) are chosen from guar gums.
[0140] Preferably, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1%to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] Preferably, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] The cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type:
[0144] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
[0145] For the purposes of the invention, the expression 'Tat ionic surfactant of quaternary ester type” is understood to mean a cationic surfactant comprising in its structure at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0146] According to the invention, the cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type are different from the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type as described below.
[0147] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:
[0148] <
[0149]
[0150] in which:
[0151] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- Ra and R4, independently of one another, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,
[0152] - A and A’ represent, independently of one another, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and
[0153] - X" represents an anion.
[0154] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.
[0155] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.
[0156] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of one another, a C7-C30, more preferentially C9-C21, and more preferentially still C11-C17, hydrocarbon group.
[0157] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of one another, a C1-C4, more preferentially C1-C2, and more preferentially still C2, alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.
[0158] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4, more preferentially C1-C2, alkyl group; better still, R3 represents a methyl group.
[0159] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4, more preferentially C1-C2, alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4, more preferentially C2-C3, hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the group CH2CH2OH.
[0160] The anion X" preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.
[0161] More preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate. More preferentially still, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.
[0162] The cationic surfactants of formula (A) are different from the additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type as described below.
[0163] Advantageously, said cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate salt.Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:
[0164] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of one another, a C7-C30, more preferentially C9-C21, and more preferentially still C11-C17, hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0165] - A and A’ represent, independently of one another, a C1-C4, more preferentially Ci-C2, and more preferentially still C2, alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical. - R3 represents a C1-C4, more preferentially C1-C2, alkyl group; better still, R3 represents a methyl group;
[0166] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group; or a C1-C4, more preferentially C1-C2, alkyl group, better still a methyl group; - X" represents a) a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate; more preferentially still, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0167] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:
[0168] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of one another, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,
[0169] - R3 and R4, independently of one another, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxy alkyl groups,
[0170] - A and A’ represent, independently of one another, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical; and
[0171] - X" represents an anion chosen from halides and (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate groups.
[0172] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmoniummethosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxy ethylmonium metho sulfate.
[0173] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, in particular a dipalmitoylethyl hydroxy ethylmonium metho sulfate.
[0174] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type is in the range extending from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range extending from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is in the range extending from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0177] The additional cationic surfactants:
[0178] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cationic surfactant, different from the cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type.
[0179] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cationic surfactant of fatty amine type.Preferably, the additional cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type are chosen from (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated) primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] The term “fatty amine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.
[0181] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0182] Said additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0183] Preferably, the additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0184] The additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are different from the cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and in particular from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as described above.
[0185] As additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0186] The term “amidoamine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0187] The term “fatty amidoamine” is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0188] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0189] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;- R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0190] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0191] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0192] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0193] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may “quatemize” in situ).
[0194] Preferably, the additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine,soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0195] more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0196] and better still yet brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0197] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, the total content of additional cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0198] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amidoamines, the total content of additional cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 described above, the total content of additional cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 described above is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0200] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type (iii) and additional cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0201] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) (iii) and additional cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] The secmest rants:
[0203] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
[0204] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
[0205] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0206] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminopho sphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof and derivatives thereof.
[0207] The salts are in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.As examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid, such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
[0208] As examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polypho sphonic acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy-1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy- 1,1, 2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1,2-tripho sphonic acid (ETP), ethy lenediaminetetrame thy lenepho sphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0209] As examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0210] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0211] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; these being optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts thereof, such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0212] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0213] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0214] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also known as l-hydroxyethane-l,l-diphosphonic acid) and / or the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0215] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0216] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) id salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
[0217] More preferentially still, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
[0218] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and in particular the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
[0219] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of sequestrant(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, the total content of sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, is in the range extending from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] The esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol.
[0222] The term “ester” is understood to mean, in the usual way, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.
[0223] According to the invention, said esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol do not comprise any monosaccharide and / or polysaccharide units. Said esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are different from the esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce to C30 fatty acids asdescribed below and optionally present in the composition according to the invention as additional fatty substances.
[0224] The esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are non-silicone esters (they do not comprise any Si-0 bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0225] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be employed in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.
[0226] Said carboxylic acid may be a monocarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid, preferably a monocarboxylic acid.
[0227] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.
[0228] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid.
[0229] Most particularly, said acid may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid.
[0230] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be employed in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a carboxylic acid and of a C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.
[0231] According to the invention, said alcohol, which makes it possible to form by esterification the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention, is a monoalcohol (i.e. alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl -OH group) or a diol (i.e. alcohol comprising two hydroxyl -OH groups), preferably a monoalcohol. According to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise three or more hydroxyl -OH groups. In other words, according to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise more than two hydroxyl -OH groups. According to the invention, said alcohol is not a glycerol.Said alcohol may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.
[0232] Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol.
[0233] Most particularly, said alcohol may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear Cs-C22, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol.
[0234] Thus, the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be employed in the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of a C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), it being possible for said alcohol to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.
[0235] Among the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used, mention may in particular be made of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 monoacids or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 monoalcohols or diols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0236] Preferably, mention may be made of esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoalcohol.
[0237] In particular, mention may be made of esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even C5-C9, monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13, or even C3-C9, monoalcohol.Mention may more particularly be made, alone or as a mixture, of:
[0238] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;
[0239] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;
[0240] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;
[0241] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;
[0242] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;
[0243] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;
[0244] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;
[0245] - decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;
[0246] - isocetyl isostearate;
[0247] - octyldodecyl erucate or oleyl erucate;
[0248] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;
[0249] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.
[0250] Advantageously, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from solid esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, i.e. those having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0251] Preferably, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from esters of a C8-C22 carboxylic acid and of a C8-C22 alcohol; more preferentially from esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; more preferentially still from esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol.
[0252] Among said esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, mention may in particular be made of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C12 to C20 or branched C12 to C20 monoacids or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C12 to C20 or branched C12 to C20 monoalcohols or diols.
[0253] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially, one or more esters of a C14-Ci8 monocarboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 monoalcohol.
[0254] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol; morepreferentially, one or more esters of a linear, saturated Cu-Cis monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated Cu-Cis monoalcohol.
[0255] Mention may be made in particular of esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).
[0256] Preferably, when present, the total content of ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, better still yet from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] Preferably, when present, the total content of ester(s) of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, better still yet from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0258] Preferably, when present, the total content of ester(s) of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, better still yet from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0259] The additional fatty substances:
[0260] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol as described above.
[0261] According to the invention, said additional fatty substances are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, and sequestrants as described above.
[0262] Preferably, said additional fatty substances are different from fatty acids.The term “fatty substance'' is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferentially still less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0263] The additional fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0264] Preferably, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0265] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0266] The additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0267] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0268] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C<> to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0269] As regards the liquid Ce-Ci6 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, and possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0270] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0271] A hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydro squalene .
[0272] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0273] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifhioromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0274] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferablyunsaturated or branched, alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxy alky lenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0275] The composition may also comprise esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” is understood to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides.
[0276] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methylglucose.
[0277] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0278] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0279] These esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
[0280] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids and in particular of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0281] Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.According to one embodiment, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin; better still from triglyceride oils of plant origin.
[0282] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.
[0283] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0284] The term “fatty alcohol” is understood to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0285] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, which is optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0286] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0287] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacos anol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0288] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0289] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0290] Mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0291] Mention may further be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0292] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0293] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among the latter, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0294] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxy stearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0295] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba micro waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0296] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, such as cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0297] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0298] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be employed preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0299] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0300] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0301] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0302] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0303] As compounds which are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N- [2 -hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxy ethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis (N -hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0304] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0305] Butters may also be used.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature above 25°C and a melting end temperature below 60°C.
[0306] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007. al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0307] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca or Bassia butter Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vids vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0308] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.
[0309] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.
[0310] Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0311] More preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0312] More preferentially still, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0313] Most preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0314] According to a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the composition also comprises at least one C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferentially C12-C24, more preferentially C14-C22, fatty alcohol, better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, even better still cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0315] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0316] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, is in the range extending from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0317] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 40% by weight, morepreferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0318] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C12-C24 fatty alcohols, the total content of C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0319] The compounds of amino acid, type:
[0320] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also additionally comprise one or more compounds of amino acid type.
[0321] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type.
[0322] For the purposes of the present invention, “compound of amino acid type” is understood to mean an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.
[0323] According to the invention, said compounds of amino acid type are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, additional cationic surfactants and additional fatty substances as described above, and also from the (poly)carboxylic acids and organic solvents as described below.
[0324] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (thus not comprising any sulfonic acid functions) and / or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.
[0325] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof.
[0326] The compounds of amino acid type may thus correspond to formula (I):COOH
[0327] H C — - N(H)P
[0328] R(I)
[0329] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
[0330] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated (Ci-Ci2)alkyl and preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0331] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
[0332] Preferably, p = 2.
[0333] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0334] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.
[0335] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).
[0336] These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.
[0337] The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.
[0338] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.
[0339] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0340] Even better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.
[0341] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.
[0342] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.
[0343] When the composition comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type is in the range preferably extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0344] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in the composition according to the invention is in the range preferably extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0345] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention is in the range preferably extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0346] Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention is in the range preferably extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0347] Even better still, the content of glycine in the composition according to the invention is in the range preferably extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, morepreferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0348] The (poly)carboxylic acids
[0349] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also additionally comprise one or more (poly )carboxy lie acids.
[0350] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, a salt thereof or mixtures thereof.
[0351] According to the invention, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) are different from the compounds of amino acid type described above.
[0352] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, additional cationic surfactants, additional fatty substances and compounds of amino acid type as described above, and also from the organic solvents as described below.
[0353] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of formula (II) below:
[0354]
[0355] in which formula (II):
[0356] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3; preferably, n = 1 or 2, more preferably n = 2;
[0357] - A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent (when n = 0) or multivalent (when n is other than 0) hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).
[0358] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0359] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-C6)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or a phenylenegroup, substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 hydroxyl group; and n = 0 to 2.
[0360] Mention may in particular be made of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
[0361] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl and in particular (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;
[0362] - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted with 1 OH radical; or
[0363] - n = 1 or 2 and A is a divalent or trivalent (Ci-C6)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.
[0364] Preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be chosen from:
[0365] - citric acid (n = 2 and trivalent A = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);
[0366] - salicylic acid (n = 0 and A = phenyl substituted with an OH);
[0367] - lactic acid (n = 0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3); and
[0368] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and divalent A = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).
[0369] More preferentially still, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.
[0370] When the composition comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof, the total content of (poly )carboxy lie acids and / or salts thereof is in the range preferably extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0371] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
[0372] The organic solvents
[0373] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0374] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol,sequestrants, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type and additional fatty substances as described above.
[0375] As organic solvents, mention may for example be made of a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at ambient temperature (25°C), in particular chosen from polyols containing in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0376] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” is understood to mean an organic compound consisting of a, preferably C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, more preferentially still C3-C5, hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0377] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are in particular different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols.
[0378] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.
[0379] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.
[0380] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0381] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Water
[0382] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises water. Preferably, the total content of water is in the range extending from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, more preferentially still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0383] [)H
[0384] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 7 and 12.5, more preferentially still between 8 and 12, better still between 9 and 12, and better still yet between 10 and 11.5.
[0385] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0386] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, such as for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0387] Among the basifying agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described above.
[0388] Additives
[0389] The composition according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as for example antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described above, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV- screening agents, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0390] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0391] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a rich cream.Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1500 mPa.s (i.e. 1500 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e. 2000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP), more preferentially still greater than or equal to 4400 mPa.s (i.e. 4400 cP).
[0392] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range extending from 1500 mPa.s to 10000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 9500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 9000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 8500 mPa.s, even better still from 4000 mPa.s to 8000 mPa.s.
[0393] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0394] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0395] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0396] (ii) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, preferably cationic guar gums,
[0397] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined above,
[0398] (iv) at least one additional cationic surfactant of fatty amine type chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,
[0399] (v) optionally at least one sequestrant,
[0400] (vi) optionally at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably from among the esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol,
[0401] (vii) optionally at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol,
[0402] (viii) optionally one or more compounds of amino acid type, and
[0403] (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids.
[0404] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0405] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,(ii) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, preferably cationic guar gums,
[0406] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined above, chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate,
[0407] (iv) at least one additional cationic surfactant of fatty amine type chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,
[0408] (v) at least one sequestrant chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof,
[0409] (vi) at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably from among the esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol, (vii) at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and
[0410] (viii) optionally one or more compounds of amino acid type, preferably glycine, and (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, preferably citric acid.
[0411] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (M) comprising at least one oxidation dye and also at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0412] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0413] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that can be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassiumpersulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0414] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0415] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (M) according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.
[0416] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, in the composition (M) according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.
[0417] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (Cl) comprising at least one alkaline agent and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and not comprising any oxidation dye, as described above.
[0418] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (Cl) according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl) according to the invention.
[0419] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention is in the range extending from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl) according to the invention.
[0420] According to another embodiment C2 of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent as defined above.The process:
[0421] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0422] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres.
[0423] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition according to the invention applied to the keratin fibres necessarily comprises at least one oxidation dye and optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.
[0424] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the lightening of keratin fibres, the composition according to the invention applied to the keratin fibres necessarily comprises at least one alkaline agent and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and does not comprise any oxidation dye, as described above.
[0425] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for the treatment of keratin fibres comprising at least a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Cl) according to the invention additionally comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0426] Preferably, according to this embodiment, the process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular a process for the lightening of keratin fibres, comprises at least a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Cl) according to the invention comprising:
[0427] (a) at least one alkaline agent;
[0428] (b) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and
[0429] (c) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type as described above, and (d) at least one chemical oxidizing agent
[0430] and not comprising any oxidation dye.
[0431] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (Cl) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, in the composition (Cl) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (Cl).
[0432] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.
[0433] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention preferably comprises the use of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0434] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (O) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0435] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range extending from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still extending from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0436] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously with or sequentially to the oxidizing composition (O).
[0437] More preferentially according to this second embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least:
[0438] (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing:
[0439] of a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising:
[0440] (a) at least one oxidation dye,
[0441] (b) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and
[0442] (c) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type as described above, and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; andof a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described above; and then
[0443] (ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.
[0444] This step (i) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously performed at the time of use, just before the application of the composition (M) to the keratin fibres.
[0445] Preferably, according to this second embodiment of the invention, said composition (C2) according to the invention is mixed with the oxidizing composition (O) in a (C2) : (O) weight ratio in the range extending from 1 : 3 to 1 : 1; more preferentially from 1 : 2 to 1 : 1.
[0446] The pH of the composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 8.5 to 12, and better still from 9 to 11.5.
[0447] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range extending from 500 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s, preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3000 mPa.s, better still from 600 mPa.s to 2800 mPa.s, even better still from 650 mPa.s to 2400 mPa.s.
[0448] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0449] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.
[0450] The process for the treatment of keratin fibres according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.
[0451] The composition(s) of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, and also to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
[0452] The application of the composition(s) of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.
[0453] The treatment process according to the invention is generally performed at ambient temperature (between 15 °C and 30°C).The process of the invention may especially comprise a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described above. It may also comprise a step of washing after application of the composition(s) described above.
[0454] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition(s) described above, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing.
[0455] The leave-on time of the compositions according to the invention and / or of the composition (M) on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.
[0456] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions according to the invention and / or the composition (M).
[0457] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.
[0458] Another subject of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above, for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0459] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined above is used for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0460] Device
[0461] A subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment dyeing device or “kit” comprising:
[0462] - at least a first compartment containing a composition according to the invention as defined above; and
[0463] - at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.
[0464] The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (O) are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
[0465] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.Examples
[0466] Example 1:
[0467] The dye composition Al according to the invention and the comparative dye composition A2, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0468] [Table 1]
[0469]
[0470] Protocol:
[0471] At the time of use, each of the compositions Al and A2 is mixed with an oxidizing composition O at 20 volumes (i.e. 6% by weight of H2O2) in an A / O ratio of 1:1.5.
[0472] Each of the mixtures M(AI+O) and M(A2+o) is then applied to a lock of hair containing 90% natural white hair (NW) and to a lock of permanent-waved hair containing 90% natural white hair (PWW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g ofhair. After a leave-on time of 30 min on a hotplate at 27 °C, each lock of hair is rinsed and dried.
[0473] Evaluation:
[0474] The colorimetric measurements were performed on each of the treated locks using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0475] In this system, L* represents the intensity: the lower the value of L*, the deeper, more powerful and more intense the dyeing. The chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, a* representing the green / red colour axis and b* the blue / yellow colour axis.
[0476] The selectivity is represented by the colour difference AE between the locks of dyed natural non-permanent- waved hair (NW) and the dyed permanent- waved locks (PWW), and is obtained by the following formula:
[0477]
[0478] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on the locks of dyed natural non-permanent- waved hair (NW), and Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on the locks of dyed permanent- waved hair (PWW). The lower the value of AE, the lower and therefore better the selectivity (homogeneous dyeing).
[0479] The results obtained are collated in Table 2 below:
[0480] [Table 2]
[0481]
[0482] The dyeing obtained with the mixture MAI+O according to the invention has AE values that are lower than that for the dyeing obtained with the comparative mixture MA2+O.
[0483] It is thus observed that the selectivity of the dyeing obtained with the composition according to the invention is better than the selectivity of the dyeing obtained with the comparative composition.The dyeing obtained with the composition according to the invention is thus more homogeneous than the dyeing obtained with the comparative composition.
[0484] Example 2:
[0485] The dye composition A3 according to the invention and the comparative dye composition A4, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0486] [Table 3]
[0487]
[0488] Protocol:
[0489] At the time of use, each of composition A3 and A4 is mixed with an oxidizing composition O at 20 volumes (i.e. 6% by weight of H2O2) according to an A:O ratio of 1:1.5.Each of mixtures M(A3+o) and M(A4+o) is then applied to a lock of permanent-waved hair containing 90% white hair strands (PWNW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
[0490] After a leave-on time of 25 min on a hotplate at 30°C, each lock of hair is rinsed and dried.
[0491] Evaluation:
[0492] The colorimetric measurements were performed on each of the treated locks using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0493] L* represents the intensity of the hair dyeing, measured on the locks of dyed permanent- waved hair.
[0494] The lower the L* value, the darker, more powerful, more intense the hair dyeing.
[0495] The results obtained are collated in Table 4 below:
[0496] [Table 4]
[0497]
[0498] The hair dyeing obtained with the mixture MA3 +O according to the invention exhibits lower L* values than the hair dyeing obtained with the comparative mixture MA4+O.
[0499] The mixture MA3 +O according to the invention provides a more intense hair dyeing than with the comparative mixture MA4 +O.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:(i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,(ii) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and(iii) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers; preferably from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para- aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; even better still ammonium hydroxide.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkaline agent(s) is in the range extending from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic galactomannan gum(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) is in the range extending from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, better still yet from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of one another, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of one another, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X" represents an anion;more preferentially of formula (A) in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of one another, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of one another, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxy alkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of one another, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical; and- X" represents an anion chosen from halides and (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate groups.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type is in the range extending from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still yet from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one additional cationic surfactant of fatty amine type, preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and better still yet bras sic amidopropyl dimethylamine.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one of the following compounds:- at least one sequestrant,- at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol,- at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol,- one or more compounds of amino acid type, and / or- one or more (poly)carboxylic acids.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.
13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it also comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent; preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.
14. Process for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.
15. Process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least:(i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing: - of a composition comprising:(a) at least one oxidation dye,(b) at least one cationic galactomannan gum, and(c) at least one cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type as defined in Claim 1, 7 or 8,and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with- a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide; and then(ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.
16. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
17. Multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.