Process for treating keratin fibres, comprising the applications of a first oxidizing composition and of a second composition based on direct dyes

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising: (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, (ii) at least one alkaline agent, (iii) at least one cationic surfactant CSA, and (iv) at least one fatty substance FSA, a') optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, and b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.

Description

[0001] PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES, COMPRISING THE APPLICATIONS OF A FIRST OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND OF A SECOND COMPOSITION BASED ON DIRECT DYES

[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair treatment and more particularly to the dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular of the hair. It is directed towards proposing a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application of a first specific lightening composition, and of a dyeing composition based on direct dyes.

[0003] Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair, and in particular to mask their grey hair.

[0004] Two maj or methods for dyeing human keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, are known.

[0005] One of these two methods is oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. This dyeing method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors and usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.

[0006] The second dyeing method, known as direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing, comprises the application of direct dyes, which are molecules with affinity for the fibres and which colour even in the absence of an oxidizing agent added to the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fibre and penetrate relatively little into the fibre, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.

[0007] The direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. The chemical species used may be nonionic, anionic (acidic dyes) or cationic (basic dyes). The direct dyes may also be natural dyes.

[0008] Dyeing the hair with natural direct dyes has been known since ancient times. Compositions containing one or more natural direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.

[0009] However, the direct colourings resulting therefrom are colourings which may be particularly chromatic but are temporary or semi-permanent since their desorptions from the surface and / or the core of the fibre is responsible for their lack of dyeing power and their poor persistence with respect to washing. In addition, these compositions require relatively long leave-on times. They may vary from several tensof minutes to several hours (overnight) depending on the desired intensity, with no ability to control the result. The result varies as a function of the fibres to be dyed and of the nature of the direct dye(s) used.

[0010] The hair can moreover be weakened or damaged by repeated colouring, such that users often also resort to separate hair care products in order to condition their hair.

[0011] Furthermore, the compositions used in the current hair dyeing processes generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute homogeneously over the keratin fibres (running), in particular the hair.

[0012] These observations gave rise to the interest in developing novel processes for treating keratin fibres which make it possible to obtain a colouring of the keratin fibres that is sparingly selective (i.e. homogeneous from the root to the tip), intense, long-lasting and chromatic, with good colour build-up, and which are capable of resulting in colourings that are resistant to the various attacking factors to which the fibres may be subjected, such as climatic conditions, washing and perspiration, and are also capable of resulting in good dyeing performance qualities even after a period of storage.

[0013] It is also of interest for these novel processes to have good use properties such as a pleasant odour and a pleasant texture, for them to be easy to perform, and for them to also provide the keratin fibres with care / conditioning properties, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, sheen and / or smoothness to the touch.

[0014] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products of which the design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern for contributing towards meeting global challenges.

[0015] It therefore proves essential to propose more sustainable processes, thereby making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.

[0016] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic processes with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.These aims are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is notably a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:

[0017] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:

[0018] (i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent,

[0019] (ii) at least one alkaline agent,

[0020] (iii) at least one cationic surfactant (entitled CSA), and

[0021] (iv) at least one fatty substance (entitled FSA),

[0022] a’) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, and

[0023] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.

[0024] It has been found that the process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained is sparingly selective and has a good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.

[0025] The keratin fibre colourings obtained with the process according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, bad weather, friction, perspiration), and notably persistent with respect to several shampoo washes.

[0026] The compositions used in the process according to the invention have good use qualities and good cosmetic properties, notably a pleasant odour and a texture that differs from the hair dyeing compositions usually used, with a texture that is creamy and in particular melts upon application, notably in contact with keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0027] The compositions used in the process according to the invention succeed in having a firm texture that melts upon application, while at the same time enabling homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no running), in particular keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0028] It has been found that the compositions used in the process according to the invention result in good comfort of the scalp during the application.

[0029] It has also been found that the hair thus treated by the process according to the invention is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.In addition, the compositions used in the process according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably by comprising few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0030] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0031] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0032] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0033] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0034] - for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression “less than” are understood to mean an open range which is strictly greater, respectively strictly less, and therefore that the limits are not included; - according to the present application, “keratin fibres” is understood to mean more particularly human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, even more preferentially the hair;

[0035] - for the purposes of the present invention, “hair” is understood to mean head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes;

[0036] - according to the present application, “fatty acid” is understood to mean an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0037] - according to the present application, “fatty alcohol” is understood to mean an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0038] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;

[0039] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may vary from 0 to 30.Composition (A)

[0040] Chemical oxidizing agents

[0041] Composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, “chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0043] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) which can be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially hydrogen peroxide.

[0045] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 7.5% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 7.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0046] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention rangesfrom 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 1% to 7.5% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 7.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0047] The alkaline agents

[0048] Composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used without distinction.

[0049] The mineral basifying agent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] The organic basifying agent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 -diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] “Alkanolamine” is understood to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0052] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

[0053] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) is (are) chosen from monoethanol amine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0055] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other thanarginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -di ethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.

[0056] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0057] As hybrid compounds, use may in particular be made of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

[0058] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.

[0059] Preferably, the total content of alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

[0060] Preferably, the total content of alkanolamine(s) when it (they) is (are) present ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

[0061] Preferably, the total content of ammonium hydroxide ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

[0062] Cationic surfactants CSA

[0063] Composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant CSA.“Cationic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized to give a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of composition (A) used in the process of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.

[0064] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) CSA that may be used in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is (are) chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactant(s) CSA that may be used in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is (are) chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type; more preferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0066] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants CSA that may be used in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type; more preferentially from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below.

[0067] Even more preferentially, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants CSA chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Better still, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises, as cationic surfactants CSA, at least a first cationic surfactant of fatty amine type and at least a second cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.

[0069] Even better still, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below.Cationic surfactants of fatty amine type:

[0070] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type is (are) chosen from (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated) primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] “Fatty amine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.

[0072] Said cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.

[0073] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0074] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0075] As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0076] “Amidoamine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0077] “Fatty amidoamine” is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0078] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0079] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0080] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms,preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0081] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0082] Mention may notably be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0084] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition used in the process according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may “quaternize” in situ).

[0085] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;

[0086] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine,cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0087] even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0088] and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0089] Preferably, when composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0090] Preferably, when composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of fatty amidoamine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0091] Preferably, when composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of fatty amidoamine of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 described above ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0092] Cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type:For the purposes of the invention, "cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type'' is understood to mean a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0093] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type is (are) chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:

[0094]

[0095] in which:

[0096] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,

[0097] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0098] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and

[0099] - X' represents an anion.

[0100] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0102] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.

[0103] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.

[0104] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group; better still R3 represents a methyl group.

[0105] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.

[0106] The anion X' preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.

[0107] More preferentially, the anion X' represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X' represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0108] Said cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, in particular of formula (A), are different from the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type described above.

[0109] Advantageously, said cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type may be in salt form, such as a salt of a halide, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate salt.

[0110] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) such that:

[0111] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated;

[0112] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferably a C1-C2 alkyl group, even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical;

[0113] - R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group; better still, R3 represents a methyl group;

[0114] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group; or a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group;

[0115] - X~ represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, c) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a) a halide or b) a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) such that: - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,

[0116] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups,

[0117] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical; and

[0118] - X' represents an anion chosen from halides and (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate groups.

[0119] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is (are) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, di stearoyl ethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, di stearoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, di stearoyl ethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxy ethylmonium methosulfate.

[0120] Better still, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, notably dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0121] Preferably, when composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0122] Preferably, when composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0123] Preferably, when composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, di stearoyl ethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, di stearoyl ethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0124] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) CSA ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0125] Preferably, when they are present in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type and cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0126] Preferably, when they are present in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) and cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).Fatty substances FSA

[0127] Composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance FSA.

[0128] According to the invention, the fatty substances FSA are different from fatty acids.

[0129] According to the invention, the fatty substances FSA are different from the cationic surfactants CSA described above.

[0130] “Fatty substance” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0131] The fatty substances FSA that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0132] Preferably, the fatty substances FSA that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0133] “Non-silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and “silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

[0134] The fatty substances FSA that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. “Liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105Pa) and “solid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point (mp) of strictly greater than 25°C (mp >25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013 *105Pa).

[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TAInstruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).

[0136] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and esters more particularly have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carboncarbon double bonds.

[0138] As regards the Ce to Cie liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

[0141] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dy namit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcy cl obutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by thecompany 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

[0143] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0144] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances FSA are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from plant oils.

[0145] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1.

[0146] The solid fatty substance(s) is (are) preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0147] “Fatty alcohol” is understood to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0148] The solid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0149] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcoholscomprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0150] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0151] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0152] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0153] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0154] Use may also be made of the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0155] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate andmyristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0158] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0159] Mention may in particular be made of the esters of myristic acid, of palmitic acid or of stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, of palmityl alcohol or of stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl Esters).

[0160] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting temperature of greater than about 40°C and may be up to 200°C, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0161] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon -based waxes, such as beeswax, notably of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0163] Mention may further be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.

[0164] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bi s( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0165] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.

[0166] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0167] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0168] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes(cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0169] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0170] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0171] R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0172] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0173] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted by one or more Ci-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.

[0174] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

[0175] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0176] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0177] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3 -diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0178] The solid fatty substances are, preferably, chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Butters may also be used.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention has (have) a starting melting temperature of greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature of less than 60°C.

[0181] Preferably, the particular butter(s) is (are) of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007. al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0182] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow Shorea slenoplera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mouleyana . phulwara butter (M. bulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gralissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0183] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fatty substance, which is extracted and generally refined.

[0184] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0185] Preferably, the fatty substances FSA are chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substance(s), preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and one or more liquid fatty substance(s), preferably chosen from plant oils.

[0187] Preferably, the total content of fatty substances FSA in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0188] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of solid fatty substances in composition (A) used in the process according to the ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 16% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 14% by weight, better still from 3% to 13% by weight, even better still from 5.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0189] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of liquid fatty substances in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even morepreferentially from 0.1% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0190] Cationic polymers

[0191] Advantageously, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one cationic polymer.

[0192] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic polymer.

[0193] The cationic polymers are non-silicone cationic polymers (they do not comprise any silicon atoms).

[0194] “Cationic polymer” is understood to mean any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give cationic groups, and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give anionic groups.

[0195] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0196] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0197] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5* 106approximately, preferably of between 103and 3*106approximately.

[0198] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:

[0199] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:

[0200]

[0201] in which:

[0202] - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0203] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0204] - R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0205] - Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0206] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0207] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0208] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0209] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0210] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0211] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

[0212] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0213] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,

[0214] quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,

[0215] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Cl-C4)alkyltri(Cl-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;

[0216] (2) cationic polysaccharides referred to as cationic polysaccharides CPA for the present invention, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0217] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationiccellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0218] The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0219] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0220] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US4131576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quatemized hydroxyethylcelluloses, it being possible for the quatemizing agent to be notably diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0221] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0222] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.

[0223] Cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US3589578 and US4031307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0224] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may mostparticularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, use may be made of guar gums modified with 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0225] Mention may in particular be made of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar Cl 5, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Solvay.

[0226] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride;

[0227] (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers;

[0228] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;

[0229] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radicalcomprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;

[0230] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer;

[0231] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0232]

[0233] in which

[0234] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + 1 being equal to 1;

[0235] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0236] - Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a Ci-Cs hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rw and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;- Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0237] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquatemium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;

[0238] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

[0239]

[0240] in which:

[0241] - R13, R14, RIS and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,

[0242] or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,

[0243] or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0244] - Ai and Bi represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0245] - X' denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0246] it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0247] in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-group, with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0248] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0249] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

[0250] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0251] Preferably, X' is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.

[0252] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

[0253] & <

[0254]

[0255] in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X' is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0256] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine Chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;

[0257] (9) poly quaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula:

[0258]

[0259] in which:- Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl, P-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ris, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0260] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0261] - X' denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0262] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0263] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol;

[0264] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF;

[0265] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;

[0266] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0267] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0268] — CHj — CH —

[0269] NH2

[0270]

[0271] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

[0272]

[0273] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0274] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 to 100 mol%of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0275] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0276] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000000 g / mol, preferably from 10000 to 1 000000 g / mol and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g / mol.

[0277] The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0278] Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0279] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride), notably copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide such as Polyquatemium-7;

[0280] - the cationic polysaccharides CPA, notably cationic celluloses such as Polyquatemium-10, and cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.

[0281] Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from cationic polysaccharides CPA, more preferentially chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.

[0282] Preferably, when cationic polymer(s) is (are) present in composition (A), the total content of cationic polymer(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0283] Preferably, when the cationic polysaccharide(s) CPA is (are) present in composition (A), the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0284] Preferably, when cationic galactomannan gum(s) is (are) present in composition (A), the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0285] Preferably, when cationic guar gum(s) is (are) present in composition (A), the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0286] Sequestrants

[0287] Advantageously, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).

[0288] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention also comprises at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).

[0289] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).

[0290] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0291] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.

[0292] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

[0293] By way of example of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, mention may be made of the following compounds: di ethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid(DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl iminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), P-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

[0294] By way of example of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy -1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hy droxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

[0295] By way of example of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0296] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that is (are) useful according to the invention is (are) phosphorus-based sequestrants, that is to say sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from:

[0297] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

[0298] - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts thereof such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.

[0299] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0300] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0301] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0302] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0303] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from diethylenetri aminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethyl enedi aminetetraaceti c acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

[0304] Even more preferentially, the sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

[0305] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

[0306] Preferably, when sequestrant(s) is (are) present in composition (A), the total content of sequestrant(s) ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0307] Preferably, when sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof is (are) present in composition (A), the total content of sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0308] Compounds of amino acid type:

[0309] Advantageously, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also further comprise one or more compounds of amino acid type.

[0310] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type.

[0311] For the purposes of the present invention, “compound of amino acid type” is understood to mean an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0312] According to the invention, said compounds of amino acid type are different from the chemical oxidizing agents, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants CSA, fattysubstances FSA, cationic polymers and sequestrants as described above, and also from the (poly)carboxylic acids and organic solvents as described below.

[0313] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type is (are) chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (therefore not comprising any sulfonic acid functions) and / or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.

[0314] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof.

[0315] The compounds of amino acid type may therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0316]

[0317] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:

[0318] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl;

[0319] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated (Ci-Ci2)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0320] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.

[0321] Preferably, p = 2.

[0322] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0323] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0324] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.

[0325] The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer ofL, D or DL configuration, preferably ofL configuration.

[0326] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0327] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention is (are) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.

[0328] Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention is (are) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0329] Better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and mixtures thereof.

[0330] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0331] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.

[0332] When composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0333] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0334] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably rangesfrom 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0335] Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0336] Even better still, the content of glycine in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0337] (Poly)carboxylic acids

[0338] Advantageously, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also further comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids.

[0339] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof.

[0340] According to the invention, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is (are) different from the compounds of amino acid type described above.

[0341] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, additional cationic surfactants, additional fatty substances and compounds of amino acid type as described above, and also from the organic solvents as described below.

[0342] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is (are) chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of formula (II) below:

[0343]

[0344] in which formula (H):- n is an integer between 0 and 10, better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3; preferably, n = 1 or 2, more preferably n = 2;

[0345] - A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n = 0) or multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is other than 0), comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0346] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0347] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or a phenylene group, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 hydroxyl group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0348] Mention may in particular be made of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:

[0349] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, notably (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;

[0350] - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or

[0351] - n = 1 or 2, and A is a divalent or trivalent (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0352] Preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be chosen from:

[0353] - citric acid (n = 2 and A trivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);

[0354] - salicylic acid (n = 0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH);

[0355] - lactic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and

[0356] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0357] Even more preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0358] When composition (A) comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0359] In a preferred embodiment, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% byweight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0360] Organic solvents

[0361] Advantageously, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0362] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

[0363] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from the direct dyes, cationic surfactants CSA, cationic polymers, fatty substances FSA, alkaline agents and sequestrants as described above.

[0364] As organic solvent, mention may for example be made of a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at ambient temperature (25 °C), notably chosen from polyols notably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0365] For the purposes of the present invention, “polyol” is understood to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably a C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, hydrocarbon chain, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0366] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are notably different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols.

[0367] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.

[0368] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more polyols chosen frompropylene glycol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerol, and the mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, even better still glycerol.

[0369] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0370] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0371] Water

[0372] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention also comprises water.

[0373] Preferably, the total content of water in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0374] pH

[0375] Preferably, the pH of composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 7 and 12.5, even more preferentially between 8 and 12, better still between 9 and 12, and even better still between 10 and 11.5.

[0376] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents usually used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0377] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.Among the basifying agents, use may be made of alkaline agents as described above.

[0378] Additives

[0379] Composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may also contain additives usually used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described above, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0380] Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and the amounts thereof so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0381] Preferably, composition (A) of the process of the invention is free of oxidation dye precursor.

[0382] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (A), which is preferably cosmetic, comprises:

[0383] (i) at least one oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially hydrogen peroxide; (ii) at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide; (iii) at least one cationic surfactant CSA, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof;(iv) at least one fatty substance FSA, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, plant oils, and mixtures thereof;

[0384] (v) optionally at least one cationic polymer;

[0385] (vi) optionally at least one sequestrant;

[0386] (vii) optionally at least one compound of amino acid type; and

[0387] (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid.

[0388] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (A), which is preferably cosmetic, comprises:

[0389] (i) at least one oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially hydrogen peroxide; (ii) at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide; (iii) at least one cationic surfactant CSA, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; (iv) at least one fatty substance FSA, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, plant oils, and mixtures thereof;

[0390] (v) at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; even more preferentially from cationic guar gums;

[0391] (vi) at least one sequestrant, preferably chosen from di ethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof;

[0392] (vii) optionally at least one compound of amino acid type, preferably glycine; and (viii) optionally at least one (poly)carboxylic acid, preferably citric acid.

[0393] Preferably, composition (A) does not comprise any oxidation dyes.Preferably, composition (A) does not comprise any direct dyes.

[0394] Preferably, composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a smooth cream.

[0395] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1500 mPa.s (i.e. 1500 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e.

[0396] 2000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP), even more preferentially greater than or equal to 4400 mPa.s (i.e. 4400 cP).

[0397] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of composition (A) used in the process according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, ranges from 1500 mPa.s to 10000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 9500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 9000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 8500 mPa.s, even better still from 4000 mPa.s to 8000 mPa.s.

[0398] The dynamic viscosity of composition (A) used in the process according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, and at a rotational speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0399] Composition (B)

[0400] Direct dyes

[0401] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye.

[0402] “Direct dye” is understood to mean coloured species. These are dyes which will spread superficially on the fibre.

[0403] The direct dye(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from natural direct dyes, synthetic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0404] Preferably, the direct dye(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from ionic direct dyes and nonionic direct dyes, more particularly from cationic direct dyes, amphoteric direct dyes, anionic direct dyes, nonionic direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0405] The direct dyes are chosen, for example, from neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral (nonionic), acidic (anionic) or cationic azo directdyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone dyes, azine direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, azomethine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

[0406] The cationic direct dye(s) contain(s) at least one quatemized cationic chromophore or at least one chromophore bearing a quaternized or quatemizable cationic group.

[0407] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic direct dyes comprise at least one quatemized cationic chromophore.

[0408] As cationic direct dyes according to the invention, mention may be made of the following dyes: acridines; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimi dines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azos, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzanthrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis-isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavanthrones and flavones; fluorindines; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudo-indigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthrones; lactones; (poly)methines such as dimethines of stilbene or styryl type; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, notably nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes / carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrones; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthrones; pyronines; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.

[0409] For the cationic azo dyes, mention may be made particularly of those resulting from the cationic dyes described in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & Sons, updated on 19 April 2010.

[0410] Among the azo dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP 714954.

[0411] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from cationic dyes called “basic dyes”.Among the azo dyes described in the Colour Index International 3rd edition, mention may be made notably of the following compounds:

[0412] - Basic Red 22

[0413] - Basic Red 76

[0414] - Basic Yellow 57

[0415] - Basic Brown 16

[0416] - Basic Brown 17

[0417] Among the cationic quinone dyes, those mentioned in the abovementioned Colour Index International are suitable for use and, among these, mention may be made, inter alia, of the following dyes:

[0418] - Basic Blue 22

[0419] - Basic Blue 99.

[0420] Among the azine dyes that are suitable for use, mention may be made of those listed in the Colour Index International, for example the following dyes:

[0421] - Basic Blue 17

[0422] - Basic Red 2.

[0423] Among the cationic triarylmethane dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, in addition to those listed in the Colour Index, of the following dyes:

[0424] - Basic Green 1

[0425] - Basic Violet 3

[0426] - Basic Violet 14

[0427] - Basic Blue 7

[0428] - Basic Blue 26.

[0429] Mention may also be made of the cationic dyes in documents US 5888252, EP 1133975, WO 03 / 029359, EP 860636, WO 95 / 01772, WO 95 / 15144 and EP 714954. Mention may also be made of those listed in the encyclopaedia “The Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes” by K. Venkataraman, 1952, Academic Press, vol. 1 to 7, in the “Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, in the chapter “Dyes and Dye Intermediates”, 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of “Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry”, 7th edition, Wiley and Sons.

[0430] Preferably, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from those resulting from dyes of azo and hydrazono type.

[0431] According to a particular embodiment, the direct dyes are cationic azo dyes, described in EP 850636, FR 2788433, EP 920856, WO 9948465, FR 2757385,EP 850637, EP 918053, WO 9744004, FR 2570946, FR 2285851, DE 2538363, FR2189006, FR 1560664, FR 1540423, FR 1567219, FR 1516943, FR 1221122, DE 4220388, DE 4137005, WO 0166646, US 5708151, WO 9501772, WO 515144, GB 1195386, US 3524842, US 5879413, EP 1062940, EP 1133976, GB 738585, DE 2527638, FR 2275462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem. (1978), 61(1), 48-52; Tsitologiya (1968), 10(3), 403-5; Zh. Obshch. Khim. (1970), 40(1), 195-202; Ann. Chim. (Rome) (1975), 65(5-6), 305-14; Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei) (1998), 45(1), 209-211; Rev. Roum. Chim. (1988), 33(4), 377-83; Text. Res. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7; Chim. Ind. (Milan) (1974), 56(9), 600-3; Khim. Tekhnol. (1979), 22(5), 548-53; Ger. Monatsh. Chem. (1975), 106(3), 643-8; MRL Bull. Res. Dev. (1992), 6(2), 21-7; Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence (1993), 29(4), 233-4; Dyes Pigm. (1992), 19(1), 69-79; Dyes Pigm. (1989), 11(3), 163-72.

[0432] Preferably, the cationic direct dye(s) comprise(s) a quaternary ammonium group; more preferentially, the cationic charge is endocyclic.

[0433] These cationic radicals are, for example, a cationic radical:

[0434] - bearing an exocyclic (di / tri)(Ci-C8)alkylammonium charge, or

[0435] - bearing an endocyclic charge, such as comprising a cationic heteroaryl group chosen from: acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bipyridinium, bistetrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phenazinium, phenooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium, quinolium, tetrazolium, thiadiazolium, thiazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium or xanthylium.

[0436] Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (C-II) and (C-III), the azo dyes of formulae (C-IV) and (C-V) below, and also the optical and geometric isomers thereof and tautomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0437] Het+-C(Ra)=N-N(Rb)-Ar, Q’ (C-II)

[0438] Het+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q’ (C-III)

[0439] Het+-N=N-Ar, Q’ (C-IV)Ar+-N=N-Ar”, Q’ (C-V),

[0440] in which formulae (C-II) to (C-V):

[0441] * Het+represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, which is optionally substituted, preferentially by at least one (Ci-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0442] * Ar+represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkylammonium, such as trimethylammonium;

[0443] * Ar represents an aryl group, notably phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkoxy, iii) (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, v) optionally substituted N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;

[0444] * Ar” represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group, such as phenyl or pyrazolyl which are optionally substituted, preferentially by one or more (Ci-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (Ci-C8)alkoxy or phenyl groups;

[0445] * Raand Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C8)alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferentially by a hydroxyl group;

[0446] * or alternatively the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; in particular, Raand Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

[0447] * Q’ represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0448] In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono direct dyes bearing endocyclic cationic charges, of formulae (C-II) to (C-V) as defined above; more particularly the cationic direct dyes of formulae (C-II) to (C-V) bearing endocyclic cationic charges described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954.

[0449] Preferentially, mention may be made of the following direct dyes:

[0450]

[0451] in which formulae (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1):

[0452] - R1represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0453] - R2and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; and

[0454] - R4represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkoxy, or (di)(Ci- C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; in particular, R4is a hydrogen atom;

[0455] - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;

[0456] - Q’ is an anionic counterion as defined above, in particular a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesityl.

[0457] In particular, the dyes of formulae (C-II-1) and (C-IV-1) are chosen from d Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:

[0458]

[0459] Basic Red 51

[0460]

[0461] Basic Yellow 87,

[0462] with Q’ being an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesityl.

[0463] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are fluorescent, that is to say that they contain at least one fluorescent chromophore as defined above.

[0464] Fluorescent dyes that may be mentioned include the radicals resulting from the following dyes: acridines, acridones, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyrans, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN)methyl]-lH-pyrrolato-kN}borons (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolopyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (notably cyanines and styryl s / hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamines (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones, perinones, perylenes, polyenes / carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes and xanthenes.

[0465] Mention may also be made of the fluorescent dyes described in documents EP 1133975, WO 03 / 029359, EP 860636, WO 95 / 01772, WO 95 / 15144, EP 714954 and those listed in the encyclopaedia “The Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes” by K. Venkataraman, 1952, Academic Press, vol. 1 to 7, in the “Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, in the chapter “Dyes and Dye Intermediates”, 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of “Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of IndustrialChemistry”, 7th edition, Wiley and Sons, and in “The Handbook — A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies”, 10th Ed., Molecular Probes / Invitrogen - Oregon 2005, circulated on the Internet or in the preceding printed editions.

[0466] According to one variant of the invention, the cationic dye(s) is (are) fluorescent and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium radical such as those of formula (C-VI) below, and also the optical and geometric isomers thereof and tautomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and also the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0467] W+-[C(Rc)=C(Rd)]m’-Ar, Q’ (C-VI),

[0468] in which formula (C-VI):

[0469] * W+represents a cationic heterocyclic or heteroaryl group, particularly comprising a quaternary ammonium optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-Cs)alkyl groups, optionally substituted notably by one or more hydroxyl groups;

[0470] * Ar representing an aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, optionally substituted preferentially by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine or fluorine; ii) one or more (Ci-Cs)alkyl, preferably C1-C4 alkyl, groups such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (Ci-Cs)alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy(Ci-Cs)alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl, vi) one or more amino or (di)(Ci-C8)alkylamino groups, preferably with the C1-C4 alkyl part optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups such as (di)hydroxyethylamino, vii) one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as piperazinyl, piperidyl or 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl such as pyrrolidinyl, pyridyl and imidazolinyl;

[0471] * m’ represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive, in particular m is 1 or 2, more preferentially 1;

[0472] * Rcand Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (Ci-Cs)alkyl group, preferentially a C1-C4 alkyl group, or alternatively Rccontiguous with W+and / or Rd contiguous with Ar form, with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; in particular, Rc is contiguous with W+and they form a (hetero)cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl;

[0473] * Q’ is an organic or mineral anionic counterion as defined above.

[0474] Among the cationic direct dyes, mention may also be made of triarylmethane cationic dyes.Preferably, the triarylmethane cationic direct dye(s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from the cationic dyes of formulae (C-VII) and (C-VII’) below:

[0475]

[0476] -,

[0477] and also the organic or mineral acid or base addition salts thereof, the optical and geometric isomers thereof and tautomers thereof, and the mesomeric forms thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:

[0478] in which preceding formulae (C-VII) and (C-VIF):

[0479] * Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or group from among: (Ci-Ce)alkyl which is optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group; aryl such as phenyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, heteroaryl, heteroaryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, or alternatively two groups Ri and R2, and / or R3 and R4, borne by the same nitrogen atom, form, together with the nitrogen atom which bears them, an optionally substituted heterocycloalkyl group such as morpholino, piperazino or piperidino; preferably, Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group;

[0480] * R5, Re, R7, Rs, R9, Rio, R11, R12, R13, R14, RIS and Rie, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from i) hydroxyl, ii) thiol, iii) amino, iv) (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino, v) (di)arylamino such as (di)phenylamino, vi) nitro, vii) acylamino (-NR-C(O)R’) in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl groupand the radical R’ is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; viii) carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; ix) carboxylic acid or ester, (-O-C(O)R’) or

[0481] (-C(O)OR’), in which the radical R’ is a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R’ is a C1-C2 alkyl radical; x) alkyl which is optionally substituted, notably by a hydroxyl group; xi) alkylsulfonylamino (R’ SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R’ represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; xii) aminosulfonyl ((R^N-SCh' ) in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; xiii) (Ci-C4)alkoxy; and xiv) (Ci-C4)alkylthio;

[0482] * or alternatively two radicals borne by two contiguous carbon atoms R5 and Re and / or R7 and Rs and / or R9 and Rio and / or Rn and R12 and / or R13 and R14 and / or R15 and Rie form, together with the carbon atoms which bear them, an aryl or heteroaryl, preferably benzo, 6-membered fused ring, it being possible for said ring to also be optionally substituted, preferably an unsubstituted benzo ring;

[0483] * Q’ represents an anionic counterion for achieving electrical neutrality, preferably chosen from halides such as chloride or bromide, and phosphate.

[0484] When the cationic dye comprises one or more anionic substituents such as COOR or SO3R with R denoting a hydrogen or a cation, it is understood that there are then more cationic substituents than anionic substituents, such that the overall resulting charge of the triarylmethane structure is cationic.

[0485] According to a preferred embodiment, the triarylmethane dye(s) of the invention is (are) chosen from those of formula (C-VII) or (C-VIP), in which, taken together or separately,

[0486] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl;

[0487] - R5, Re, R7, Rs, R9, Rio, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15 and Rie represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as chlorine, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, an amino group, a (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino group and, preferably, at least one of the groups R9, Rio, R11 or R12 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom (Cl), or an amino group, or a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino or (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino group, preferably in the para position relative to the phenyl group.Preferably, the direct dye(s) of triarylmethane structure is (are) chosen from Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), and mixtures thereof.

[0488] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances. “Anionic direct dye” is understood to mean any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or from an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triarylmethane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid acid dyes and natural acid dyes.

[0489] According to the invention, the anionic direct dye(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic direct dyes of formulae (A-II), (A-IT), (A-III), (A-IIT), (A-IV), (A-IV’), (A-V), (A-V’), (A- VI), (A- VII), (A- VIII) and (A-IX) below:

[0490] a) the diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (A-II) or (A-IT):

[0491]

[0492] in which formulae (A-II) and (A-IT):

[0493] * R7, Rs, R9, Rio, R’7, R’s, R’9 and R’10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

[0494] - alkyl;

[0495] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0496] - hydroxyl, mercapto;

[0497] - nitro, nitroso;- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0498] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0499] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined above;

[0500] - R’ ’ -S(O)2-, with R’ ’ representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, an aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferentially a phenylamino or phenyl group;

[0501] - R”’-S(O)2-X’- with R’” representing an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group, X’ as defined above;

[0502] - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0503] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2 S(O )-, M+and iv) alkoxy with M+as defined above;

[0504] - optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group; - cycloalkyl; notably cyclohexyl;

[0505] - Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O)2S(O )-, M+or phenylamino groups;

[0506] - or alternatively two contiguous groups R? with Rs or Rs with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused benzo group A’; and R’7 withR’s orR’s withR’9 orR’9 with R’10 together form a fused benzo group B’; with A’ and B’ optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)-; ix) R°-X’-C(X)-X”-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) aryl(alkyl)amino which is optionally substituted; with M+, R°, X, X’, X” and Ar as defined above;

[0507] * W represents a sigma bond c, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) -NR- with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or alternatively Raand Rb form, together with the carbon atom that bears them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferentially, W represents a sulfur atom or Raand Rb together form a cyclohexyl;it being understood that formulae (A-II) and (A-IF) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical (O)CO -, M+on one of the rings A, A’, B, B’ or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

[0508] As examples of dyes of formula (A-II), mention may be made of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment Red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food Yellow 3 or Sunset Yellow;

[0509] and as examples of dyes of formula (A-IF), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38;

[0510] b) the pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (A-III) and (A-IIF):

[0511]

[0512] in which formulae (A-III) and (A-IIF):

[0513] * Rn, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O)2S(O ), M+with M+as defined above;

[0514] * R14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a group -C(O)O', M+with M+as defined above;* Ris represents a hydrogen atom;

[0515] * Rie represents an oxo group, in which case R’i6 is absent, or alternatively Ris with Rie together form a double bond;

[0516] * R17 and Ris, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:

[0517] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+as defined above;

[0518] - Ar-O-S(O)2- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferentially a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;

[0519] * R19 and R20 together form either a double bond, or a benzo group D’, which is optionally substituted;

[0520] * R’i6, R’19 and R’20, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;

[0521] * R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;

[0522] * Raand Rb, which may be identical or different, are as defined above; preferentially, Rarepresents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;

[0523] * Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;

[0524] «■> «* *

[0525] * represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;

[0526] it being understood that formulae (A-III) and (A-IIE) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+on one of the rings D or E; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

[0527] As examples of dyes of formula (A-III), mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and as examples of dyes of formula (A-III’), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17;

[0528] c) the anthraquinone dyes of formulae (A-IV) and (A-IV’):

[0529]

[0530]

[0531] in which formulae (A-IV) and (A-IV’):

[0532] * R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

[0533] - alkyl;

[0534] - hydroxyl, mercapto;

[0535] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0536] - optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+as defined above;

[0537] - aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from )2S(O )-, M+with M+as defined above;

[0538] i)(alkyl)amino;

[0539] i)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;

[0540] )2S(O')-, M+with M+as defined above;

[0541]

[0542] ’ represents a hydrogen atom or a group NR28R29 with R28 and R29, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

[0543] - alkyl;

[0544] - polyhydroxy alkyl such as hydroxy ethyl;

[0545] - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined above; preferentially, R° represents an alkyl group;

[0546] - cycloalkyl, notably cyclohexyl;

[0547] * Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR’28R’29 with R’28 and R’29, which may be identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined above;it being understood that formulae (A-IV) and (A-IV’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

[0548] As examples of dyes of formula (A-IV), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT Violet No. 2;

[0549] and as examples of dyes of formula (A-IV’), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48;

[0550] d) the nitro dyes of formulae (A-V) and (A-V’):

[0551]

[0552] in which formulae (A-V) and (A-V’):

[0553] * R30, R31 and R32, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

[0554] - alkyl;

[0555] - alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;

[0556] - hydroxyl, mercapto;

[0557] - nitro, nitroso;

[0558] - polyhaloalkyl;

[0559] - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R°, X, X’ and X” as defined above;

[0560] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+as defined above;

[0561] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined above;

[0562] - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0563] - (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;- heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino;

[0564] in particular, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;

[0565] * Rcand Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0566] * W is as defined above; in particular, W represents an -NH- group;

[0567] * ALK represents a linear or branched divalent Ci-Ce alkylene group; in particular, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;

[0568] * n is 1 or 2;

[0569] * p represents an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive;

[0570] * q represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive;

[0571] * u is 0 or 1;

[0572] * when n is 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; particularly nitro;

[0573] * when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical -S(O)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferentially, J represents an -SO2-radical;

[0574] * M’ represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0575]

[0576] * , which may be present or absent, represents a benzo group, optionally substituted by one or more groups R30 as defined above;

[0577] it being understood that formulae (A-V) and (A-V’) comprise at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

[0578] As examples of dyes of formula (A-V), mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13 and Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (A-V’), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, the sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-l-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 2-(4’-N,N-(2”-hydroxyethyl)amino-2’-nitro)anilineethanesulfonic acid, 4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid; EXT D&C Yellow 7;

[0579] e) the triarylmethane dyes of formula (A- VI):

[0580]

[0581] in which formula (A- VI):

[0582] * R33, R34, R35 and R36, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by a group (O)mS(O )-, M+with M+and m as defined above;

[0583] * R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

[0584] - alkyl;

[0585] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0586] - (di)(alkyl)amino;

[0587] - hydroxyl, mercapto;

[0588] - nitro, nitroso;

[0589] - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0590] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0591] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined above;

[0592] - or alternatively two contiguous groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I’; with I’ optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O)2S(O )-, M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X’-; viii) R°-X’-C(X)-; ix) R°-X’-C(X)-X”-; with M+, R°, X, X’ and X” as defined above;

[0593] in particular, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom, and R41 to R44, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group or (O)2S(O )-, M+; and when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O)2S(O )-group;it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I’ comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )- or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O'; preferentially sulfonate.

[0594] As examples of dyes of formula (A- VI), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50;

[0595] f) the xanthene-based dyes of formula (A- VII):

[0596]

[0597] in which formula (A- VII):

[0598] * R45, R46, R47 and R48, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;

[0599] * R49, R50, R51 and R52, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

[0600] - alkyl;

[0601] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0602] - hydroxyl, mercapto;

[0603] - nitro, nitroso;

[0604] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0605] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined above;

[0606] in particular, R53, R54, R55 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom; * G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRewith Re as defined above; in particular, G represents an oxygen atom;

[0607] * L represents an alkoxide O', M+; a thioalkoxide S', M+or a group NRf, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+as defined above; in particular, M+is sodium or potassium;

[0608] * L’ represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom oran optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group; in particular, L’ represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or (O)mS(O‘ )-, M+groups with m and M+as defined above;

[0609] * Q and Q’, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; in particular, Q and Q’ represent an oxygen atom;

[0610] * M+is as defined above.

[0611] As examples of dyes of formula (A- VII), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52; Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;

[0612] g) the indole-based dyes of formula (A- VIII):

[0613]

[0614] (A-VIII),

[0615] in which formula (A- VIII):

[0616] * R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and Reo, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

[0617] - alkyl;

[0618] - alkoxy, alkylthio;

[0619] - hydroxyl, mercapto;

[0620] - nitro, nitroso;

[0621] - R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X”- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group; X, X’ and X”, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulfur atom, or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0622] - (O)2S(O')-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0623] - (O)CO -, M+with M+as defined above;

[0624] * G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRewith Re as defined above; in particular, G represents an oxygen atom;

[0625] * Ri and Rh, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;it being understood that formula (A- VIII) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O', M+; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

[0626] As examples of dyes of formula (A- VIII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74;

[0627] h) the quinoline-based dyes of formula (A-IX):

[0628]

[0629] in which formula (A-IX):

[0630] * Rei represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;

[0631] * R62, Res and Re4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0632] * or alternatively Rei with Re2, or Rei with Re4, together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more groups (O)2S(O )-, M+with M+representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

[0633] it being understood that formula (A-IX) comprises at least one sulfonate radical (O)2S(O )-, M+, preferentially sodium sulfonate.

[0634] As examples of dyes of formula (A-IX), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

[0635] More particularly, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more anionic direct dyes chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following anionic direct dyes:

[0636] [Table 1]

[0637]

[0638]

[0639]

[0640] Most of these dyes are described in particular in the Colour Index published by The Society of Dyers and Colourists, P.O. Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD1 2JB, England.

[0641] The anionic dyes that are more particularly preferred are the dyes designated in the Colour Index under the code C.I. 58005 (monosodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy- 9, 10-anthraquinone-3 -sulfonic acid), C.I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10- dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-l-anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15510 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-l -naphthal enyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid), C.I. 15985 (disodium salt of 6-hydroxy-5-[(4-sulfophenyl)azo]-2- naphthalenesulfonic acid), C.I. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.I. 20470 (disodium salt of l-amino-2- (4’-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid), C.I.

[0642] 42090 (disodium salt of N-ethyl-N-[4-[[4-[ethyl[(3-sulfophenyl)methyl]amino]phenyl](2-sulfophenyl)methylene]-2,5-cyclohexadien-l-ylidene]-3-sulfobenzenemethanaminium hydroxide, internal salt), C.I. 61570 (disodium salt of 2,2’-[(9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-l,4-anthracenediyl)diimino]bis[5-methyl]benzenesulfonic acid).

[0643] Use may also be made of compounds corresponding to the mesomeric or tautomeric forms of structures (A-II) to (A-IX).

[0644] Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orcein. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.

[0645] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0646] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from ionic direct dyes, better still from cationic direct dyes.

[0647] Even more preferentially, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0648] Preferably, the total content of direct dye(s) in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.0001% to 20% by weight; more preferentially from 0.0005% to 15% by weight; even more preferentially from 0.001% to 10% by weight; better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight; even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0649] Preferably, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention ranges from 0.0001% to 20% by weight; more preferentially from 0.0005% to 15% by weight; even more preferentially from 0.001% to 10% by weight; better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight; even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0650] Non-silicone fatty substancesAdvantageously, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance FSB.

[0651] Preferably, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention also comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance FSB.

[0652] The description above of the fatty substances FSA included in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is reiterated here in its entirety with the exception of any silicone fatty substances FSA) to describe the non-silicone fatty substances FSB included in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention.

[0653] In other words, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) FSB may be chosen from the non-silicone fatty substances FSA as described above.

[0654] According to the invention, the non-silicone fatty substance FSB are different from fatty acids.

[0655] For the purposes of the present invention, “non-silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance different from a silicone.

[0656] “Silicone” is understood to mean any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.

[0657] Advantageously, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) FSB is (are) chosen from non-silicone solid fatty substances, non-silicone liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, preferably from non-silicone solid fatty substances, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, even better still from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0658] Preferably, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) FSB ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0659] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) FSB different from fatty acids ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0660] In a particular embodiment, when composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone solid fatty substance(s), the total content of the non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0661] According to this particular embodiment, when composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the total content of the solid fatty alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 10% by weight, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0662] Cationic polysaccharides

[0663] Advantageously, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one cationic polysaccharide CPB.

[0664] Preferably, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide CPB.

[0665] The description above of the cationic polysaccharides CPA included in composition (A) used in the process according to the invention is reiterated here in its entirety to describe the cationic polysaccharides CPB included in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention.In other words, the cationic polysaccharide(s) CPB may be chosen from the cationic polysaccharide(s) CPA as described above.

[0666] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharides CPB that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from cationic celluloses such as Polyquatemium-10; cationic galactomannan gums, notably cationic guar gums.

[0667] Preferentially, the cationic polysaccharides CPB are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, more preferentially from cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0668] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) CPB ranges from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0669] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of the cationic guar gum(s) CPB ranges from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0670] Non-cationic polysaccharides

[0671] Advantageously, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-cationic polysaccharide, preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides.

[0672] Preferably, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one non-cationic polysaccharide, preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides.

[0673] The nonionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof.

[0674] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may be made of the temperature; and as chemical treatment, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, in so far as these treatments make it possible to result in polymers that are nonionic.As galactomannans that may be used, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums which can be modified with (poly)hydroxy(Ci-Ce)alkyl groups, notably hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0675] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0676] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0677] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP 105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0678] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0679] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as com, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Use may also be made of the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0680] The nonionic polysaccharides may also be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0681] According to the invention, “cellulose-based” polymer is understood to mean any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together by P-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of nonionic celluloses.

[0682] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether-esters.

[0683] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcellulosessuch as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aquaion); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl(Ci-C4)alkylcellulose mixed celluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AkzoNobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0684] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharides are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, galactomannans, and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers thereof; and better still, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(Ci-Ce)alkyl, notably hydroxypropyl, groups; and / or celluloses, which may be substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxy ethylcellulose.

[0685] Preferentially, the nonionic polysaccharides are chosen from cellulose ethers such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxy ethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0686] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-cationic polysaccharides are chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, more preferentially from cellulose ethers, such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0687] Advantageously, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of the noncationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0688] Preferably, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of the nonionic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0689] Preferably, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of the nonionic cellulose ether(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0690] Cationic surfactants CSBAdvantageously, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one cationic surfactant CSB.

[0691] Preferably, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant CSB.

[0692] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) CSB is (are) chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0693] The cationic surfactant(s) CSB may be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, and mixtures thereof.

[0694] “Fatty amine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.

[0695] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0696] Among the fatty amines, mention may be made of stearylamine, stearyldimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0697] As fatty amines, mention may also be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0698] “Amidoamine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0699] “Fatty amidoamine” is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0700] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0701] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from (Cio-C3o)alkylamido(Ci-Cs)alkyl (di)(Ci-Ce)alkyl amines and salts thereof, better still from (C14-C26)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkyl (di)(Ci-C4)alkyl amines and salts thereof, preferentially from (Ci6-C24)alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl (di)(Ci-C2)alkyl amines and salts thereof; even more preferentially from (Ci8-C22)alkylamido(C2-C4)alkyl (di)(Ci-C2)alkyl amines and salts thereof.

[0702] Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (A) below: RC0NHR”N(R’)2 (A)in which:

[0703] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0704] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0705] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0706] As fatty amidoamines that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of: oleami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, notably the product sold by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and salts thereof.

[0707] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen, alone or as mixtures, including the salts thereof, from:

[0708] - brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine of formula R-C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2;

[0709] in which R-C(O) is a fatty acid derived from Brassica campestris seed oil (rapeseed oil), with a majority of behenyl group (C22);

[0710] - stearami dopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH3-(CH2)i6-C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2;

[0711] - b ehenami dopropyl dimethylamine of formula CH3-(CH2)20-C(O)-N(H)-(CH2)3-N(CH3)2;

[0712] - oleami dopropyl dimethylamine.The cationic surfactant(s) CSB may be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0713] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may notably be mentioned include:

[0714] - those corresponding to the general formula (X) below:

[0715]

[0716] in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as notably oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

[0717] The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-Ce)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0718] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or alternatively, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk;

[0719] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (XI) below:

[0720]

[0721] in which Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0722] Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

[0723] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XII) below:

[0724]

[0725] (XII),

[0726] in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X~ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0727] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);

[0728] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (XIII) below:

[0729] "

[0730]

[0731] in which: R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl groups and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon groups R29, a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X' is an organic or inorganic, simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 R23 then denotes R27 and that when z is 0 R25 then denotes R29.

[0732] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0733] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0734] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0735] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0736] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.

[0737] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0738] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0739] The anion X-is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.

[0740] The anion X~ is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.Use may more particularly be made, in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R26, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group -C(O)R28, a hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0741] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0742] Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyl oxy ethyldimethylammonium, diacyl oxy ethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, monoacyl oxy ethyldihydroxy ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0743] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0744] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0745] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

[0746] Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

[0747] Mention may also be made of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxy ethylammonium methosulfate.

[0748] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.

[0749] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0750] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant(s) CSB is (are) chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, preferably from those corresponding to the general formula (X), those corresponding to the general formula (XIII), fatty amines, preferably those chosen from the amidoamines of formula (A), and mixtures thereof.

[0751] According to a preferred embodiment, the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from those corresponding to the general formula (X), those corresponding to the general formula (XIII), and mixtures thereof.

[0752] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (X) are chosen from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, and mixtures thereof.

[0753] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (XIII) may be distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0754] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the amidoamines of formula (A) are chosen from brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0755] Advantageously, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of the cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0756] Silicones

[0757] Advantageously, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one silicone, which may be chosen from nonamino silicones, amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0758] Preferably, composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one silicone, which may be chosen from non-amino silicones, amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0759] The silicone(s) is (are) preferably chosen from amino silicones.

[0760] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may thus comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile.

[0761] The non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention; they may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0762] Silicones are notably described in detail in the publication by Walter Noll “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press.

[0763] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from:

[0764] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as:

[0765] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

[0766] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having thechemical structure:

[0767]

[0768] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide;

[0769] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0770] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5><10'6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0771] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.

[0772] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0773] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0774] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0775] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkylgroups such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

[0776] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

[0777] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

[0778] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function; - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732;

[0779] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EPl 86507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or alternatively of the 2 -hydroxy alkyl sulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255.

[0780] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethyl silyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

[0781] - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;

[0782] - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0783] - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s;

[0784] - the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0785] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0786] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)dialkylsiloxanes.Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

[0787] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxyl-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0788] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and poly dimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 x IO'5to 5 10'2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0789] Among these poly alkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

[0790] - the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;

[0791] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0792] - the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;

[0793] - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0794] - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PHlOOO;

[0795] - certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0796] The non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethyl silyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0797] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0798] “Amino silicone” denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0799] The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5><10'6to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from M0'5to 1 m2 / s.

[0800] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) is (are) chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:A) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0801]

[0802] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0803] B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):

[0804] R’aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R’a’ (II)

[0805] in which:

[0806] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, group, - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0807] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0808] - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -NR”-Q-N(R”)2, -N R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A', -N+H(R”)2A-, -N+H2(R”) A-, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2A-, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A- and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A', in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A' represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0809] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from:

[0810] (i) the “trimethyl silyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

[0811]

[0812] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;

[0813] (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below:

[0814]

[0815] in which:

[0816] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0817] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0818] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0819] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol;

[0820] (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below:

[0821]

[0822] in which:

[0823] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0824] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0825] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0826] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0827] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0828] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularlyfrom 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;

[0829] (iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below:

[0830]

[0831] in which:

[0832] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0833] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms, which is preferably linear.

[0834] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning;

[0835] (v) the silicones of formula (VII) below:

[0836]

[0837] in which:

[0838] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0839] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g / mol. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Coming;

[0840] c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0841]

[0842] in which:

[0843] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0844] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0845] - Q’ is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0846] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; and

[0847] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50;

[0848] d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX)

[0849]

[0850] in which:

[0851] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0852] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;- Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -Re-NHCOR?;

[0853] - X' is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and

[0854] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

[0855] These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0856] Silicones belonging to this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0857] e) the amino silicones of formula (X):

[0858]

[0859] in which:

[0860] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0861] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0862] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0863] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0864] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0865] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

[0866] Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units of the following general formulae:

[0867] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’ ’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or alternatively [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R”)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0868] in which:

[0869] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, moreparticularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0870] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0871] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0872] - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0873] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0874] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0875] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

[0876] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0877] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol.

[0878] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Sil soft A+ by Momentive;

[0879] g) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):

[0880]

[0881] in which:- R, R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0882] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0883] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;

[0884]

[0885] in which:

[0886] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0887] - Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0888] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0889] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0890] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0891] - x ranges from 10 to 2000, and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0892] - y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0893] - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and- Ri and R2 independently are linear saturated alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0894] A silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive;

[0895] h) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0896] Hj

[0897] < <

[0898] <

[0899]

[0900] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.

[0901] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS- 132, AMS- 152, AMS- 162, AMS- 163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu. In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0902] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0903] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecularmass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.

[0904] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Coming.

[0905] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:

[0906]

[0907] in which:

[0908] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0909] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0910] - R’”, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; it being possible for said radicals to optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0911] - R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0912] - R” is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0913] Preferably, the R’”, which may be identical or different, are linear saturated alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the R’”, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear saturated alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, notably which are C13, C14 or C15, alone or as a mixture,and better still represent a mixture of Ci3, C14 and C15.

[0914] Preferably, the R’” are identical.

[0915] Preferably, R’ is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; notably a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0916] Preferably, R” is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0917] Advantageously, when composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one silicone chosen from amino silicones, said amino silicone is preferably chosen from the silicones of formula (II), more preferentially from the silicones of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof.

[0918] When composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one silicone, the total content of the silicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0919] When composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone, the total content of the amino silicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0920] Composition (B) according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the content of water ranging more preferentially from 50% to 95% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 94% by weight, better still from 75% to 93% by weight, even better still from 80% to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0921] When composition (B) is aqueous, the pH may range from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 5.

[0922] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents usually used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0923] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.Among the basifying agents, use may be made of alkaline agents as described above.

[0924] Additives

[0925] Composition (B) used in the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used, other than the compounds as described above.

[0926] Among the additives that may be contained in composition (B) used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof other than the polysaccharides described above, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives.

[0927] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with composition (B) used in the process according to the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

[0928] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0929] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (B), which is preferably cosmetic, comprises

[0930] (i) at least one direct dye;

[0931] (ii) optionally at least one non-silicone fatty substance FSB;

[0932] (iii) optionally at least one cationic polysaccharide CPB;

[0933] (iv) optionally at least one non-cationic polysaccharide;

[0934] (v) optionally at least one cationic surfactant CSB; and

[0935] (vi) optionally at least one silicone.

[0936] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, composition (B), which is preferably cosmetic, comprises

[0937] (i) at least one direct dye;

[0938] (ii) at least one non-silicone fatty substance FSB, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferentially from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol;(iii) at least one cationic polysaccharide CPB, preferably chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, more preferentially from cationic guar gums, and mixtures thereof;

[0939] (iv) at least one non-cationic polysaccharide, preferably chosen from nonionic polysaccharides, more preferentially from cellulose ethers, such as (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from hydroxy ethylcellulose;

[0940] (v) at least one cationic surfactant CSB, preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; and

[0941] (vi) at least one silicone, preferably chosen from amino silicones.

[0942] The process:

[0943] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the dyeing of keratin fibres and more preferentially a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres.

[0944] According to one embodiment, step a) is carried out before step b).

[0945] According to another embodiment, step b) is carried out before step a).

[0946] Preferably, step a) is carried out before step b).

[0947] Preferably, the time between the performance of step a) and the performance of step b) is less than or equal to 24 hours, more preferentially ranges from 2 seconds to 12 hours, even more preferentially from 30 seconds to 10 hours, even better still from 1 minute to 8 hours, better still from 5 minutes to 2 hours.

[0948] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises at least one step a’) of rinsing the keratin fibres with water.

[0949] Preferably, step a’) of rinsing the keratin fibres with water is carried out between step a) of applying composition (A) and step b) of applying composition (B).

[0950] More preferentially, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprises at least the following steps in the order: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) as described above, thena’) a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, then

[0951] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above, then c) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water.

[0952] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention also comprises, before performing said step a), a step o) of preparing composition (A) as described above.

[0953] Said step o) of preparing composition (A) consists in the extemporaneous mixing of:

[0954] a composition (Al) comprising:

[0955] (i’) at least one alkaline agent as defined above,

[0956] (ii’) at least one cationic surfactant CSA as defined above,

[0957] (iii’) at least one fatty substance FSA as defined above, and

[0958] (iv’) optionally at least one optional ingredient such as those described for composition (A) above,

[0959] said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with

[0960] a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent such as those described above.

[0961] Said composition (Al) corresponds to composition (A) as described above, with the exception that it is free of chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0962] Composition (A) of the process according to the invention preferably results from the mixing of composition (Al) described above with a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0963] Said oxidizing composition (O) preferably comprises water.

[0964] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (O) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0965] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).Preferably, according to this preferred embodiment of the invention, said composition (Al) is mixed with the oxidizing composition (O) in a weight ratio (Al) : (O) ranging from 1 : 3 to 1 : 1; more preferentially from 1 : 2 to 1 : 1.

[0966] According to this preferred embodiment of the invention, step o) of preparing composition (A) is advantageously carried out at the time of use, just before applying composition (A) to the keratin fibres.

[0967] Even more preferentially, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprises at least the following steps in the order:

[0968] o) a step of preparing composition (A), as described above, then

[0969] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres composition (A) as described above, then a’) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, then

[0970] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above, then c) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water.

[0971] Better still, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprises at least the following steps in the order:

[0972] o) a step of preparing composition (A), as described above, then

[0973] a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres composition (A) as described above, then a’) a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water, then

[0974] b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) as described above, then c) optionally a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water.

[0975] The process for treating keratin fibres according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or a drying step.

[0976] The compositions of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet, and preferably dry, hair, and also on all types of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent-waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.

[0977] The application of the compositions of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be carried out via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.The treatment process according to the invention is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15°C and 30°C).

[0978] The process of the invention may notably comprise a step of washing the keratin fibres before applying the compositions described above. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the compositions described above.

[0979] For the purposes of the present invention, “step of washing the keratin fibres” is understood to mean a step of applying a shampoo to the keratin fibres.

[0980] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the compositions described above, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the compositions to stand on the fibres, and optionally rinsing.

[0981] The leave-on time of the compositions described above on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 45 minutes.

[0982] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be carried out after the steps of applying the compositions described above.

[0983] Preferably, a drying step is carried out after the application of the compositions used in the process according to the invention, and more particularly after any steps of rinsing with water.

[0984] Device

[0985] Another subject of the invention is a multi-compartment dyeing device or “kit”.

[0986] Preferably, the multi -compartment device according to the invention comprises:

[0987] - at least a first compartment containing a composition (Al) as defined above; and - at least a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined above; and - at least a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.

[0988] Composition (Al) and the oxidizing composition (O) as described above are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0989] Examples

[0990] Compositions Al and O, as described in Tables 2 and 3 below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (%g AM).

[0991] [Table 2]

[0992]

[0993] [Table 3]

[0994]

[0995] A composition (A) was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition (Al) (Table 2) with the oxidizing composition (O) (Table 3) in the Composition (Al) / Composition (O) weight ratio of 1 : 1.5.

[0996] In addition, the dyeing composition (B), as described below in Table 4, was prepared; the amounts are expressed as percentages of active material (%g AM).

[0997] [Table 4]

[0998]

[0999] Firstly, composition (A), resulting from the mixing of composition (Al) with composition (O), is applied to locks of hair containing 90% natural white hairs, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[1000] After a leave-on time of composition (A) of 45 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is washed using a shampoo and then is rinsed with water. The hair is then dried in an oven (60°C).

[1001] Then, secondly, composition (B) is applied to the locks of hair previously treated with composition (A), in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[1002] After a leave-on time of composition (B) of 20 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed with water.

[1003] The dyeing of the hair treated with the process according to the invention presents a good intensity, chromaticity and fastness, with also with a good color buildup and low selectivity.The treatment process according to the invention leads to good comfort of the scalp during application. The compositions used in the treatment process according to the invention have a pleasant odour, and also a creamy and fondant texture during application allowing homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no running).

[1004] The hair treated with the process according to the invention is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the following steps:a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising:(i) at least one chemical oxidizing agent,(ii) at least one alkaline agent,(iii) at least one cationic surfactant CSA, and(iv) at least one fatty substance FSA, andb) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.

2. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidizing agent(s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially hydrogen peroxide.

3. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially extending from 1% to 7.5% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 7.1% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent(s) is (are) chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkaline agent(s) ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A).

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) CSA is (are) chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially composition (A) comprises at least two cationic surfactants CSA chosen from cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, cationic surfactants of quaternary ester type, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially composition (A) comprises, as cationic surfactants CSA, at least a first cationic surfactant of fatty amine type and at least a second cationic surfactant of quaternary ester type.

7. Process according to Claim 6, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type is (are) chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

8. Process according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of quaternary ester type is (are) chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X' represents an anion.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) CSA ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) FSA is (are) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of fatty substance(s) FSA ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, even better still from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (A) also comprises at least one cationic polymer; preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides CPA; more preferentially from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums.

13. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (A) is free of oxidation dye precursor.

15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the direct dye(s) in composition (B) is (are) chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of direct dye(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 20% by weight; more preferentially from 0.0005% to 15% by weight; even more preferentially from 0.001% to 10% by weight; better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight; even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

17. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (B) also comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance FSB; preferably chosen from non-silicone solid fatty substances, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; even better still from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step a) is carried out before step b).

19. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising a step o) of preparing composition (A) consisting in the extemporaneous mixing of:a composition (Al) comprising:(i’) at least one alkaline agent as defined in Claim 1 or 4,(ii’) at least one cationic surfactant CSA as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 6 to 8, and(iii’) at least one fatty substance FSA as defined in Claim 1 or 10,said composition (Al) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; witha separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined in Claim 1 or 2;said step o) being performed before step a).

20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one step a’) of rinsing the keratin fibres with water; more preferentially, said step a’) of rinsing with water is carried out between step a) and step b).

21. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the time between the performance of step a) and the performance of step b) is less than or equal to 24 hours, preferably ranges from 2 seconds to 12 hours, more preferentially from 30 seconds to 10 hours, even more preferentially from 1 minute to 8 hours, better still from 5 minutes to 2 hours.

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