Composition comprising an oxidation dye and / or an alkaline agent, a liquid fatty substance and a cationic GUAR gum
The composition of oxidation dyes, liquid fatty substances, and cationic guar gum addresses selectivity and persistence issues in hair dyeing, offering intense, long-lasting color and environmental benefits.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair dye compositions face issues with selectivity, color intensity, persistence, and conditioning, often requiring separate treatments, and have environmental concerns due to petrochemical use.
A composition comprising oxidation dyes, liquid fatty substances, and cationic guar gum, with a weight ratio of 3 to 10, providing improved dyeing properties, environmental friendliness, and conditioning benefits.
The composition achieves sparingly selective, intense, and long-lasting hair color resistant to external agents, with good working qualities and environmental sustainability.
Smart Images

Figure IMGF000031_0001 
Figure IMGF000060_0001 
Figure IMGF000054_0001_TABLE
Abstract
Description
[0001] COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE AND / OR AN ALKALINE AGENT, A LIQUID FATTY SUBSTANCE AND A CATIONIC GUAR GUM
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing. The invention is directed towards providing a composition that is capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for artificially colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
[0003] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one cationic guar gum.
[0004] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of the composition according to the invention, and also to a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.
[0005] It is known practice to dye keratin fibres, and in particular human hair, with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation bases, notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, are able to produce coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
[0006] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers, the latter being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
[0007] The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
[0008] “Permanent” dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursor(s) (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). In order to be considered as efficient dyeing, the latter needs to satisfy certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity with colour differences, between the end and the root of the same lock (also known as the selectivity), which are as small as possible.The colouring must also be resistant over time and must not become degraded in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, climatic conditions, rubbing and perspiration.
[0009] However, the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, notably in terms of selectivity, colour build-up, chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence, in particular with respect to successive shampoo washes, or of resistance to light or to perspiration.
[0010] Also, the hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated colouring, so users also often resort to separate hair treatments, in order to condition the hair. Treating the hair in two separate steps (colouring, then conditioning) is more complicated to set up, time-consuming and expensive for the user.
[0011] In addition, current hair dye compositions generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute uniformly over the keratin fibres (running), in particular the hair.
[0012] These findings are behind the interest in developing novel compositions, which can serve as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a keratin fibre dyeing process, making it possible to obtain a colouring on keratin fibres that is sparingly selective (i.e. homogeneous from the root to the end), intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up, and that is capable of affording colourings that are resistant to the various stresses to which the fibres may be subjected, such as weather conditions, washing and perspiration, and that are also capable of affording good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
[0013] It is also of interest that these new compositions be gentle on the scalp, that they have good working properties such as being easy to mix, having a pleasant odour, a pleasant texture, that they be easy to apply, and that they also impart care / conditioning properties to keratin fibres, more particularly a soft feel, suppleness, sheen and / or a smooth feel.
[0014] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.
[0015] It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0016] These aims are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is notably a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:
[0017] (i) at least one oxidation dye,
[0018] (ii) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0019] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) (ii) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) (iii) is in the range from 3 to 10.
[0020] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained is sparingly selective, with good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.
[0021] The keratin fibre colourings obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, bad weather, friction, perspiration), and notably persistent with respect to shampoo washing several times.
[0022] The compositions according to the invention have good working qualities and good cosmetic properties, notably a pleasant odour and a texture which differs from hair dye compositions usually used with a creamy and particularly fondant texture on application, notably on contact with keratin fibres such as the hair. The texture of the compositions according to the invention is particularly appreciated in that it is sparingly tacky and fluid, which allows its use for several types of application such as in a bowl or a heating bottle.
[0023] The compositions according to the invention succeed in having a firm and fondant texture on application, while at the same time affording homogeneous deposition thereof on keratin fibres (no running), in particular on keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0024] It has been found that the compositions according to the invention afford good scalp comfort during application.
[0025] It has also been found that the hair thus treated is particularly shiny, light, soft-feeling, smooth-feeling, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.In addition, the compositions according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0026] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.
[0027] A subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition.
[0028] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
[0029] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0030] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;
[0031] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
[0032] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included;
[0033] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” more particularly means human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair;
[0034] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes;
[0035] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0036] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0037] - according to the present invention, the term “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” meansa compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;
[0038] - according to the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30.
[0039] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free. The term “silicone-free” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0%).
[0040] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
[0041] Oxidation dyes
[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.
[0043] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
[0044] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0046] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0047] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0048] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.
[0049] Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’ -aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0050] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-0-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0051] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(0-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenedi amine and 1 , 8 -bi s(2, 5 -diaminophenoxy)-3 , 6 -di oxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0052] Para-aminophenols that are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3 -methylphenol, 4-amino-3 -fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-m ethylphenol, 4-amino- 2 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0053] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5 -methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0054] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0055] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0056] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may bementioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 -aminopyrazolof 1 , 5-a]pyrid-7 -yl)m ethanol, 2-(3 -aminopyrazolof 1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0057] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the 2 carbon atom with:
[0058] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
[0059] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-Ce)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or
[0060] c) a (Ci-Ce)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0061] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0062] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5-diamino- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1 -(P-hy droxy ethyl)pyrazole, 3 ,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5 -diamino- 1 -(4’ -chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5 -diamino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1-tert-butyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1 -(P-hy droxy ethyl)-3 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3 -hydroxymethyl- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hy droxy ethyl)amino-l -methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
[0063] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4.5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0064] The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4, 5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4, 5-diamino- 1 ,2-di ethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4, 5-diamino-l,2-bis(2 -hydroxy ethyl)- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hy droxy ethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l -one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4-amino-5-(3 -dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-l ,2-di ethyl- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0065] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0066] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0068] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0069] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0071] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0072] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5 -ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2, 4-diamino-l-(P-hy droxy ethyloxy )benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hy droxy ethylamino)- 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3 -diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3 -ureido-1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-m ethyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hy droxy ethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hy droxy ethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3 -aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0073] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0074] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0076] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers and mixtures thereof; more preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Preferably, the total content of oxidation dye(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one direct dye.
[0081] These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0082] The term “direct dye” means coloured species. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fibre.
[0083] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2 -nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxy ethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2 -nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P~ hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3 -nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3 -nitrobenzene.
[0085] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0086] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
[0087] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 2 -nitrophenylenedi amine.
[0088] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0089] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-m ethylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxy ethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0090] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0091] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chl oro-4’ -hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chl oro-4’ -methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3 -[4’ -N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.
[0092] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
[0093] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
[0094] When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.More preferentially, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] More preferentially, the direct dyes are chosen from ionic direct dyes, better still from cationic direct dyes.
[0096] Even more preferentially, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0098] When the composition comprises at least one cationic direct dye, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of oxidation dye(s) and direct dye(s) is within the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0100] Liquid fatty substances
[0101] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0102] According to the invention, said liquid fatty substances are different from the oxidation dyes and alkaline agents as described previously and hereinbelow, and also from the cationic surfactants, cationic guars, solid fatty substances, and organic solvents and sequestrants as described hereinbelow.
[0103] Preferably, said liquid fatty substances are different from fatty acids.
[0104] For the purposes of the present invention, the term ‘ fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure(l.O13xio5Pa) (solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethyl cy cl opentasil oxane .
[0105] The liquid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0106] Preferably, the liquid fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0107] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0108] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty substance” or “oil” means a fatty substance with a melting point (m.p.) of less than or equal to 25°C (m.p. < 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C (m.p. > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105Pa).
[0109] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105Pa).
[0110] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0111] It is recalled that the liquid or solid fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0112] As regards the liquid Ce-Ci6 hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, and optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
[0115] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcy cl obutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0117] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0118] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols different from the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may notably be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0119] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
[0120] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0123] Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] The composition may also comprise esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the cationic guars described hereinbelow.
[0125] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0126] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may notably be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0127] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] These esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
[0129] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids and notably of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0131] More preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) in the composition according to the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid C8-C30 fatty alcohols, liquid esters of Ci to C26 fatty acids and of Ci to C26 fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from liquid esters of fatty acids and / or offatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin; better still from triglyceride oils of plant origin.
[0132] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one triglyceride oil of plant origin, preferably chosen from jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, com oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil, rapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, pomegranate oil, mango oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, and mixtures thereof; and better still sunflower oil.
[0133] The sunflower oil having the INCI name Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil will preferably be used.
[0134] Preferably, the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.75% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] Preferably, the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.75% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] Preferably, the total content of triglyceride oil(s) of plant origin is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.75% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0137] Cationic guars
[0138] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic guar gum.A cationic guar gum is a cationic polysaccharide. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polysaccharide” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer of polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups. The cationic polysaccharides are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-0 units).
[0139] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic guar gums used in the composition according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0140] In particular, for the purposes of the invention, the cationic guar gums used in the composition according to the invention are different from the cationic surfactants as described below.
[0141] Cationic guar gums are notably described in patents US 3 589578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
[0142] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.
[0143] Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with trialkylammonium cationic groups.
[0144] Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.
[0145] Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.
[0146] Mention may be made in particular of the cationic guar gums having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar Cl 5, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Solvay.
[0147] More preferentially, the cationic guar gums are chosen from the cationic guar gums having the INCI name: “Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”, the cationic guar gums having the INCI name: “Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymer other than the cationic guar gums.
[0148] The expression “free of cationic polymer other than cationic guar gums’" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymers other than the cationic guar gums described in the present patent application. In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably does not comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the cationic guar gums described in the present patent application
[0149] The term “cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0150] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) having the INCI name: “Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) having the INCI name: “Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3.5 to 8; more preferentially from 4 to 6.
[0153] More preferentially, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant origin to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) having the INCI name: “Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” is in the range from 3 to 10, more preferentially from 3.5 to 8, and better still from 4 to 6.
[0154] More preferentially, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant origin to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) having the INCI name: “Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” is in the range from 3 to 10, more preferentially from 3.5 to 8, and better still from 4 to 6.
[0155] Alkaline agents
[0156] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0157] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
[0158] The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 -diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.
[0160] The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
[0161] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminom ethane and mixtures thereof.
[0162] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0163] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -di ethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.
[0164] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0165] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
[0166] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanol amine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of alkaline agent(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0167] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0168] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0169] According to a first embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:
[0170] (i) at least one oxidation dye,
[0171] (ii) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0172] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3 to 10.
[0173] According to a second embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:
[0174] (i) at least one alkaline agent,
[0175] (ii) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0176] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3 to 10.According to a third embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:
[0177] (i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent,
[0178] (ii) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0179] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3 to 10.
[0180] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent.
[0181] Cationic surfactants
[0182] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
[0183] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized as a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.
[0184] More preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0185] Even more preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined hereinbelow, and mixtures thereof.
[0186] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type; even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amidoamine type comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants.
[0187] More preferentially according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first fatty amine-type cationic surfactant and at least a second quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant.
[0188] Even more preferentially according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined hereinbelow.
[0189] Fatty amine cationic surfactants:
[0190] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.
[0192] Said fatty amine cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0193] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0194] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0195] As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0196] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0197] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0198] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the amidoamines of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;
[0199] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0200] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0201] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they can “quaternize” in situ).
[0203] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants (ii) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;
[0204] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0205] even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0206] and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0207] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amine cationic surfactants, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0208] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2described previously is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0209] Quaternary ester cationic surfactants:
[0210] For the purposes of the invention, the term “quaternary ester cationic surfactant' means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0211] Preferably, the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:
[0212]
[0213] in which:
[0214] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,
[0215] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,
[0216] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and
[0217] - X' represents an anion.
[0218] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.
[0219] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.
[0220] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.
[0221] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.
[0222] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.
[0223] The anion X' preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.
[0224] More preferentially, the anion X ’ represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0225] Said quaternary ester cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described previously.
[0226] Advantageously, said quaternary ester cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or C1-C4 alkyl sulfate salt.
[0227] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:
[0228] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0229] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical;
[0230] - R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group;
[0231] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkylgroup or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group; - X' represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X' represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0232] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:
[0233] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,
[0234] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups,
[0235] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical; and
[0236] - X~ represents an anion chosen from halides and C1-C4 alkyl sulfate groups.
[0237] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0238] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, notably a dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmonium methosulfate.
[0239] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ester cationic surfactants, the total content of quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentiallyfrom 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0240] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0241] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride and distearoylethylhydroxy ethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0242] Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0243] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) and of quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, betterstill from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0244] The sequestrants:
[0245] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
[0246] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
[0247] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0248] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
[0249] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
[0250] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids: di ethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenedi aminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’ -di glutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’ -diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-di acetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’ -diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’ -di acetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based oniminodisuccinic acid (IDS A) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanol diglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45 S from AkzoNobel.
[0251] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy -1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- l-hydroxy-l,l-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hy droxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0252] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0253] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0254] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
[0255] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
[0256] - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, for instance etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0257] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0258] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxy ethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0259] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0260] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0261] More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethyl enedi aminetetraaceti c aci d (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0262] Even more preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0263] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
[0264] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of sequestrant(s) is within the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, is within the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] Solid fatty substances
[0266] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa).
[0267] According to the invention, said solid fatty substances are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants, cationic guars, liquid fatty substances and sequestrants as described previously, and also from the organic solvents as described below.
[0268] Preferably, said solid fatty substances are different from fatty acids.
[0269] The solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0270] Preferably, the solid fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0271] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ solid fatty substance" means a fatty substance having a melting point (m.p.) of greater than 25°C (m.p. > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105Pa).
[0272] As a reminder, for the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 *105Pa).
[0273] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1.The solid faty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid faty alcohols, solid esters of faty acids and / or of faty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0274] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0275] The solid faty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, beter still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0276] The solid faty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, beter still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0277] The solid faty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0278] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0279] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0280] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturatedcarboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0281] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0282] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0283] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, particularly myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, particularly myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0284] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0285] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0286] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.Mention may also be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.
[0287] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0288] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0289] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.
[0290] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0291] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0292] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxesof flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0293] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0294] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0295] R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from Ci4-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0296] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0297] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.
[0298] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0299] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0300] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0301] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3 -diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0302] Butters may also be used.
[0303] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25°C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.
[0304] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann ’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0305] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca lalifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mollleyana), phulwara butter (M. bulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma bulyracea). coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia lernifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gralissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0306] An example of a preferred butter is shea butter.
[0307] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.The solid faty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid C8-C40 faty alcohols, solid esters of C9-C26 carboxylic faty acids and of C9-C26 faty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0308] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one solid C8-C40, more preferentially C10-C30, better still C12-C24 and even better still C14-C22 fatty alcohol, better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, or even cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0309] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances, the total content of solid fatty substance(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, even beter still from 10% to 28% by weight, and even better still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0310] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances chosen from C8-C40 solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and of C9-C26 faty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of solid C8-C40 faty alcohol(s), solid ester(s) of C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and of C9-C26 faty alcohol, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 35% by weight, beter still from 5% to 30% by weight, even beter still from 10% to 28% by weight, and even beter still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0311] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of solid C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 35% by weight, beter still from 5% to 30% by weight, even better still from 10% to 28% by weight, and even better still from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0312] Organic solventsAdvantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0313] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine-type and quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, cationic guars, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants and additional fatty substances as described previously.
[0314] As organic solvents, examples that may be mentioned include a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (25°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0315] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably of C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0316] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are notably different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols.
[0317] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.
[0318] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.
[0319] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0320] Water
[0321] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises water.
[0322] Preferably, the total water content is in the range from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0323] pH
[0324] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 5 and 12.5, even more preferentially between 5.5 and 12, better still between 6 and 11.5, and even better still between 8 and 11.
[0325] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0326] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0327] Among the basifying agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described previously.
[0328] Additives
[0329] The composition according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV-screening agents, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0330] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a rich cream.
[0331] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e. 2000 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 3000 mPa.s (i.e. 3000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP).
[0332] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 2000 mPa.s to 20000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 18000 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 16000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 15 500 mPa.s, even better from 4000 mPa.s to 15 400 mPa.s.
[0333] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a spin speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0334] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:
[0335] (i) at least one oxidation dye,
[0336] (ii) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0337] (iv) at least one cationic surfactant; preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,
[0338] (v) optionally at least one alkaline agent,
[0339] (vi) optionally at least one sequestrant,
[0340] (vii) optionally at least one solid fatty substance; preferably chosen from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols;
[0341] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3 to 10.
[0342] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:(i) at least one oxidation dye,
[0343] (ii) at least one triglyceride oil of plant origin,
[0344] (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0345] (iv) at least one alkaline agent,
[0346] (v) at least one cationic surfactant; preferably chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as described previously, and mixtures thereof,
[0347] (vi) at least one sequestrant chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTP A) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof,
[0348] (vii) at least one solid fatty substance; preferably chosen from C8-C40 solid fatty alcohols;
[0349] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3 to 10.
[0350] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is composition (M) comprising at least one oxidation dye and also at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0351] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0352] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0353] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0354] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (M) according to the invention is within the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M) according to the invention.Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in composition (M) according to the invention is within the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M) according to the invention.
[0355] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is composition (Cl) comprising at least one alkaline agent and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and not comprising any oxidation dye, as described previously.
[0356] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (Cl) according to the invention is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (Cl) according to the invention.
[0357] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention is within the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (Cl) according to the invention.
[0358] According to another C2 embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent as defined above.
[0359] The process:
[0360] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step (i) of applying a composition according to the invention as defined previously onto said keratin fibres.
[0361] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres.
[0362] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition according to the invention appliedto the keratin fibres necessarily comprises at least one oxidation dye, and optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent, as described previously.
[0363] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for lightening keratin fibres, the composition according to the invention applied to the keratin fibres necessarily comprises at least one alkaline agent and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and does not comprise any oxidation dye, as described previously.
[0364] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Cl) according to the invention also comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0365] Preferably, according to this embodiment, the process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for lightening keratin fibres, comprises at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (Cl) according to the invention comprising:
[0366] (a) at least one alkaline agent,
[0367] (b) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, (c) at least one cationic guar gum, and
[0368] (d) at least one chemical oxidizing agent,
[0369] and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 3 to 10. Said composition (Cl) does not comprise any oxidation dyes.
[0370] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (Cl) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (Cl).
[0371] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof in composition (Cl) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (Cl).
[0372] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to saidkeratin fibres a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent, as described previously.
[0373] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention preferably comprises the use of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0374] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (O) is within the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0375] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0376] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously with or sequentially to the oxidizing composition (O).
[0377] More preferentially according to this second embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention is a dyeing process comprising at least:
[0378] (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of
[0379] a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising:
[0380] (a) at least one oxidation dye,
[0381] (b) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (c) at least one cationic guar gum,
[0382] the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) being in the range from 3 to 10,
[0383] and said composition (C2) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; and
[0384] a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described previously; and then
[0385] (ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.
[0386] This step (i) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously performed at the time of use, just before the application of composition (M) to the keratin fibres.Preferably, according to this second embodiment of the invention, the mixing of said composition (C2) according to the invention with the oxidizing composition (O) is performed in a weight ratio (C2) / (O) in the range from 1 / 3 to 1 / 1; more preferentially from 1 / 2 to 1 / 1.
[0387] The pH of composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 8.5 to 12, and better still from 9 to 11.5.
[0388] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 200 MPa.s, more preferentially greater than or equal to 300 MPa.s, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 400 MPa.s, and better still greater than or equal to 410 MPa.s.
[0389] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0390] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.
[0391] The keratin fibre treatment process according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.
[0392] The composition(s) of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, and also to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
[0393] The application of the composition(s) of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.
[0394] The treatment process according to the invention is generally performed at room temperature (between 15°C and 30°C).
[0395] The process of the invention may notably comprise a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described previously. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the composition(s) described previously.According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition(s) described previously, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing.
[0396] The leave-on time of the compositions according to the invention and / or of composition (M) on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.
[0397] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions according to the invention and / or composition (M).
[0398] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.
[0399] Another subject of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined previously, for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0400] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined previously is used for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0401] Device
[0402] A subject of the invention is also a multi -compartment dyeing device or kit comprising: - at least a first compartment containing a composition according to the invention as defined previously; and
[0403] - at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined previously.
[0404] The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (O) are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
[0405] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.Examples
[0406] Example 1:
[0407] The dye composition Al according to the invention and the comparative composition Bl, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0408] [Table 1]
[0409]
[0410] Protocol:
[0411] At the time of use, the dye compositions Al and Bl are mixed with 1.5 times their weight of an oxidizing composition O containing 5.5% by weight of H2O2.
[0412] Each of the mixtures M(AI+O) and M(BI+O) is applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands (NW), in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
[0413] After leaving on for 30 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed and dried in an oven (60°C).
[0414] The colorimetric measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta CM 3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0415] In this system, L* represents the lightness: the lower the value of L*, the darker, more powerful and more intense the hair dyeing.
[0416] Results
[0417] The results are collated in the following table:
[0418] [Table 2]:
[0419]
[0420] The mixture resulting from the dye composition Al and the oxidizing composition provides a more powerful dyeing (lower L* value) compared with the comparative mixture.
[0421] Example 2:
[0422] The dye composition Al according to the invention and the comparative dye compositions B2, B3 and B4, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).[Table 3]
[0423]
[0424] Protocol:
[0425] At the time of use, each of composition Al and B2-B4 is mixed with an oxidizing composition O at 20 volumes (i.e. 6% by weight of H2O2) according to an A:O ratio of 1:1.5.
[0426] Each of mixtures M(AI+O), M(B2+O), M(B3+O) and M(B4+O) is then applied to a lock of permanent-waved hair containing 90% white hair strands (PWNW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.After a leave-on time of 35 min on a hotplate at 27°C, each lock of hair is rinsed and dried.
[0427] Evaluation:
[0428] The colorimetric measurements were performed on each of the treated locks using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0429] L* represents the intensity of the hair dyeing, measured on the locks of dyed permanent-waved hair.
[0430] The lower the L* value, the darker, more powerful, more intense the hair dyeing.
[0431] The results obtained are collated in Table 4 below:
[0432] [Table 4]
[0433]
[0434] The hair dyeing obtained with the mixture MAI +O according to the invention exhibits lower L* values than the hair dyeing obtained with the comparative mixtures M(B2+O), M(B3+O) and M(B4+O).
[0435] The mixture MAI +O according to the invention provides a more intense hair dyeing than with the comparative mixtures M(B2+O), M(B3+O) or M(B4+O).
Claims
CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:(i) at least one oxidation dye,(ii) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum,the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) (ii) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) (iii) ranging from 3 to 10.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers; preferably from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance(s) (ii) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid Cs-Cso fatty alcohols, liquid esters of Ci to C26 fatty acids and of Ci to C26 fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin; better still from triglyceride oils of plant origin.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) (ii) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.75% to 5% by weight, and better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic guar gum(s) are chosen from the cationic guar gums having the INCI name: “Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”, the cationic guar gums having the INCI name: “Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) (ii) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) (iii) is in the range from 3.5 to 8, preferably from 4 to 6.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one alkaline agent; preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; even better still ammonium hydroxide.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic surfactant; preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least two cationic surfactants; preferably at least one fatty amine-type cationic surfactant and at least one quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant.
11. Composition according to Claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least oneC6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
12. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X' represents an anion.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at 25°C and atatmospheric pressure; preferably chosen from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, solid esters of C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.
15. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.
16. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 15.
17. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least:(i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:- a composition (C2) comprising:(a) at least one oxidation dye,(b) at least one fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and (c) at least one cationic guar gum,the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fatty substance(s) (ii) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) (iii) being in the range from 3 to 10,and said composition (C2) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; with - a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; and then(ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.
18. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
19. Multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.