Composition comprising an oxidation dye, an alkaline agent, at least one cationic surfactant and a polycarboxylic acid

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing. The invention is directed towards providing a composition that is capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for artificially colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one alkaline agent, at least two cationic surfactants, and at least one particular polycarboxylic acid or a salt thereof. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of the composition according to the invention, and also to a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.

Description

[0001] COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE, AN ALKALINE AGENT, AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC SURFACTANT AND A POLYCARBOXYLIC ACID

[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing. The invention is directed towards providing a composition that is capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for artificially colouring keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

[0003] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one alkaline agent, at least two cationic surfactants, and at least one particular polycarboxylic acid or a salt thereof.

[0004] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of the composition according to the invention, and also to a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.

[0005] It is known practice to dye keratin fibres, and in particular human hair, with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation bases, notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, are able to produce coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.

[0006] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers, the latter being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.

[0007] The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.

[0008] “Permanent” dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursor(s) (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). In order to be considered as efficient dyeing, the latter needs to satisfy certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity with colour differences, between the end and the root of the same lock (also known as the selectivity), which are as small as possible.The colouring must also be resistant over time and must not become degraded in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, climatic conditions, rubbing and perspiration.

[0009] However, the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, notably in terms of selectivity, colour build-up, chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence, in particular with respect to successive shampoo washes, or of resistance to light or to perspiration.

[0010] Also, the hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated colouring, so users also often resort to separate hair care, in order to condition the hair. Treating the hair in two separate steps (colouring, then conditioning) is more complicated to set up, time-consuming and expensive for the user.

[0011] In addition, current hair dye compositions generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute uniformly over the keratin fibres (running), in particular the hair.

[0012] These findings are behind the interest in developing novel compositions, which can serve as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a keratin fibre dyeing process, making it possible to obtain a colouring on keratin fibres that is sparingly selective (i.e. homogeneous from the root to the end), intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up, and that is capable of affording colourings that are resistant to the various stresses to which the fibres may be subjected, such as weather conditions, washing and perspiration, and that are also capable of affording good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.

[0013] It is also of interest that these new compositions be gentle on the scalp, that they have good working properties such as having a pleasant odour, a pleasant texture, that they be easy to apply, and that they also impart care / conditioning properties to keratin fibres, more particularly a soft feel, suppleness, sheen and / or a smooth feel.

[0014] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.

[0015] It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0016] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that arerenewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0017] These aims are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is notably a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0018] (i) at least one oxidation dye,

[0019] (ii) at least one alkaline agent,

[0020] (iii) at least two cationic surfactants, and

[0021] (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) below, salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and / or solvates thereof:

[0022] R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)

[0023] in which

[0024] Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,

[0025] -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group; and

[0026] R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and

[0027] R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group including from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0028] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained is sparingly selective, with good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.

[0029] The keratin fibre colourings obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, bad weather, friction, perspiration), and notably persistent with respect to shampoo washing several times.

[0030] The compositions according to the invention have good working qualities and good cosmetic properties, notably a pleasant odour and a texture which differs from hair dye compositions usually used with a creamy and particularly fondant texture on application, notably on contact with keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0031] The compositions according to the invention succeed in having a firm and fondant texture on application, while at the same time affording homogeneous deposition thereof on keratin fibres (no running), in particular on keratin fibres such as the hair.It has been found that the compositions according to the invention afford good scalp comfort during application.

[0032] It has also been found that the hair thus treated is particularly shiny, light, soft-feeling, smooth-feeling, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.

[0033] In addition, the compositions according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0034] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.

[0035] A subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition.

[0036] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0037] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0038] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0039] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0040] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included;

[0041] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” more particularly means human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair;

[0042] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes;

[0043] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0044] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty alcohol” means an alcoholcomprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0045] - according to the present invention, the term “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;

[0046] - according to the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 0 to 30.

[0047] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free. The term “silicone-free” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0%).

[0048] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.

[0049] Oxidation dyes

[0050] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.

[0051] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.

[0052] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

[0053] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0054] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0055] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0056] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.

[0057] Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’ -aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxy ethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.

[0058] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.

[0059] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-l,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenedi amine and 1 , 8 -bi s(2, 5 -diaminophenoxy)-3 , 6 -di oxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0060] Para-aminophenols that are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3 -methylphenol, 4-amino-3 -fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-m ethylphenol, 4-amino-2 -hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0061] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5 -methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0062] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

[0063] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0064] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 -aminopyrazolof 1 , 5-a]pyrid-7 -yl)m ethanol, 2-(3 -aminopyrazolof 1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin- 4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0065] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the 2 carbon atom with:

[0066] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;

[0067] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-Ce)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or

[0068] c) a (Ci-Ce)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0069] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5, 6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0070] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5-diamino- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1 -(P-hy droxy ethyl)pyrazole, 3 ,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5 -diamino- 1 -(4’ -chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5 -diamino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1-tert-butyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1 -(P-hy droxy ethyl)-3 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3 -hydroxymethyl- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hy droxy ethyl)amino-l -methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

[0071] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4.5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0072] The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4, 5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4, 5-diamino- 1 ,2-di ethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4, 5-diamino-l,2-bis(2 -hydroxy ethyl)- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hy droxy ethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l -one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4-amino-5-(3 -dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-l ,2-di ethyl- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.

[0073] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0074] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0075] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0077] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0078] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.

[0079] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.

[0081] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.

[0082] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5 -ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2, 4-diamino-l-(P-hy droxy ethyloxy )benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hy droxy ethylamino)- 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3 -diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3 -ureido-1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-m ethyl- 1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hy droxy ethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hy droxy ethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3 -aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.

[0083] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates,tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0084] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0085] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0087] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.

[0089] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting ofresorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers and mixtures thereof; more preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Preferably, the total content of oxidation dye(s) in the composition is within the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one direct dye.

[0093] These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0094] The term “direct dye” means coloured species. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fibre.

[0095] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2 -nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxy ethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2 -nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P~ hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -methoxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3 -nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3 -nitrobenzene.

[0097] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0098] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.

[0099] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 2 -nitrophenylenedi amine.

[0100] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0101] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-m ethylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxy ethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0102] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0103] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chl oro-4’ -hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chl oro-4’ -methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3 -[4’ -N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.

[0104] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.

[0105] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.

[0106] When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.Alkaline agents

[0107] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0108] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.

[0109] The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 -diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0112] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.

[0113] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminom ethane and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0115] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole andbenzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -di ethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l -sulfonic acid.

[0116] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0117] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.

[0118] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanol amine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.

[0119] Preferably, the total content of alkaline agent(s) in the composition is within the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0120] Preferably, the total content of alkanolamine(s) in the composition is within the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10% by weight and even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0121] Preferably, the total content of ammonium hydroxide in the composition is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% byweight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0122] Cationic surfactants

[0123] The composition according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants.

[0124] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized as a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.

[0125] Preferably, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] More preferentially, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined hereinbelow, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants; more preferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0128] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from quaternary ester cationic surfactants; more preferentially from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined hereinbelow.

[0129] Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.Even further, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined hereinbelow.

[0131] Fatty amine cationic surfactants:

[0132] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.

[0134] Said fatty amine cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.

[0135] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0136] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0137] As cationic surfactants of fatty amine type, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0138] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0139] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0140] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0141] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the amidoamines of formula RC0NHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms,preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;

[0142] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0143] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0144] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0146] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they can “quaternize” in situ).

[0147] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants (ii) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;

[0148] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearami dopropy 1dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0149] even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0150] and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0151] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amine cationic surfactants, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2described previously is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Quaternary ester cationic surfactants:

[0154] For the purposes of the invention, the term “quaternary ester cationic surfactant' means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0155] Preferably, the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:

[0156]

[0157] in which:

[0158] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,

[0159] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0160] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and

[0161] - X' represents an anion.

[0162] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0164] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.

[0165] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.

[0166] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.

[0167] The anion X' preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.

[0168] More preferentially, the anion X ’ represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0169] Said quaternary ester cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described previously.

[0170] Advantageously, said quaternary ester cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or C1-C4 alkyl sulfate salt.

[0171] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0172] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0173] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical;

[0174] - R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group;

[0175] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group;

[0176] - X~ represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X~ represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkylsulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X' represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.

[0177] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0178] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,

[0179] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups,

[0180] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical; and

[0181] - X' represents an anion chosen from halides and C1-C4 alkyl sulfate groups.

[0182] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0183] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, notably a dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmonium methosulfate.

[0184] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ester cationic surfactants, the total content of quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s)of formula (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride and distearoylethylhydroxy ethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactants in the composition according to the invention is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) and of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) and of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Poly carboxylic acids of formula (I)

[0191] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) below, salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and / or solvates thereof:

[0192] R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)

[0193] in which

[0194] Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,

[0195] -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group; and

[0196] R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and

[0197] R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group including from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0198] Said polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) according to the invention are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, cationic surfactants as described previously, and also from the cationic polysaccharides and fatty substances as described below.

[0199] For the purposes of the present invention, the “solvates” represent hydrates and also the combination with linear or branched C1-C4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

[0200] More precisely, the polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:

[0201] - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a -CH(CH3)-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and to- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents a -CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0202] Preferably, Ri represents a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0203] The polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) may be in the form of pure enantiomers, preferably of L configuration, or in the form of mixtures, notably racemic mixtures.

[0204] The salts of the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, the ammonium and substituted ammonium salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] As examples of alkali metal salts, mention may notably be made of the sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, whereas as examples of alkaline-earth metal salts, mention may notably be made of the calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.

[0206] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “transition metal” means a metal having an incomplete d sub-shell, more particularly in oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).

[0207] As regards the salts of organic amines, mention may be made of the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary amines, or alternatively of alkanolamines. Said amines contain one or more identical or different radicals, of linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.

[0208] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

[0209] Preferably, said polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used in the context of the present invention are chosen from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic acid ethylenediamine, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0210] Better still, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metalsalts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0211] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used according to the present invention are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, optical isomers thereof and geometrical isomers thereof; better still from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] Most preferentially, use will be made of the compound having the name Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (INCI name), such as Dissolvine GL38 or 47S sold by the company AkzoNobel.

[0213] Preferably, the total content of polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and solvates thereof, in the composition is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5%, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Preferably, the total content of N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid and tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate in the composition is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.05% to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] Preferably, the total content of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) in the composition is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.05% to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] Cationic polysaccharides

[0217] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polysaccharide” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer of polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0218] The cationic polysaccharides are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-0 units).

[0219] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in the composition according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0220] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in the composition according to the invention are different from the fatty amine-type and quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants described previously.

[0221] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymer other than the cationic polysaccharides.

[0222] The expression “free of cationic polymer other than cationic polysaccharides’" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in the present patent application. In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably does not comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in the present patent application

[0223] The term “cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0224] The cationic polysaccharides may notably be chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof.

[0225] Mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0226] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0227] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxy ethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxy ethylcellulose.

[0228] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0229] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name: Polyquaternium-10.

[0230] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0231] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0232] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar Cl 5, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Solvay.Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0233] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially from non-associative cationic polysaccharides.

[0234] The term “associative polysaccharide” means polysaccharide polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. The associative polysaccharides more particularly comprise at least one hydrophobic group.

[0235] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0236] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon chain is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

[0237] More preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Even more preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.

[0239] Most particularly preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.

[0240] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1%to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic galactomannan gums, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic guar gums, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] Esters of C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of Ci-C 40 alcohol

[0244] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol.

[0245] The term “ester” means, in the usual manner, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.

[0246] According to the invention, said esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol do not include any monosaccharide and / or polysaccharide units. Said esters of C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are different from the esters and diesters of sugars and of C& to C30 fatty acids as described below, which are optionally present in the composition according to the invention as additional fatty substances.

[0247] The esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are non-silicone (they do not comprise any Si — O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0248] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, andoptionally substituted, for example with one or more (notably 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0249] Said carboxylic acid may be a monocarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid, preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0250] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0251] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monocarboxylic acid.

[0252] Most particularly, said acid may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monocarboxylic acid.

[0253] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of carboxylic acid and of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.

[0254] According to the invention, said alcohol, which makes it possible to form by esterification the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention, is a monoalcohol (i.e. alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH) or a diol (i.e. alcohol comprising two hydroxyl groups -OH), preferably a monoalcohol. According to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise three or more hydroxyl groups -OH. In other words, according to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise more than two hydroxyl groups -OH. According to the invention, said alcohol is not a glycerol.

[0255] Said alcohol may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.

[0256] Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoalcohol.

[0257] Most particularly, said alcohol may be a linear (unsubstituted) saturated Cs-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.Thus, the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol which can be used in the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.

[0258] Among the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used, mention may notably be made of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 monoacids or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 monoalcohols or diols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0259] Preferably, mention may be made of esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoalcohol.

[0260] In particular, mention may be made of esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.

[0261] Mention may be made more particularly, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0262] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;

[0263] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;

[0264] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;

[0265] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;

[0266] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;

[0267] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;

[0268] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;- decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;

[0269] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0270] - octyldodecyl erucate or oleyl erucate;

[0271] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0272] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0273] Advantageously, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from solid esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, i.e. those with a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 *105Pa).

[0274] Preferably, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from esters of a C8-C22 carboxylic acid and of a C8-C22 alcohol; more preferentially from esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; even more preferentially from esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol.

[0275] Among said esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, mention may notably be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C20 or branched C12-C20 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C20 or branched C12-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols or diols.

[0276] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0277] Preferably, one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol are used; more preferentially, one or more esters of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0278] Mention may be made in particular of esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).

[0279] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, when they are present, the total content of ester(s) of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of ester(s) of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Additional fatty substances:

[0282] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty substance, different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol as described previously.

[0283] According to the invention, said additional fatty substances are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, quaternary ester-type and fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a Ci-C40 alcohol and polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) as described previously.

[0284] Preferably, said additional fatty substances are different from fatty acids.

[0285] The term “fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105Pa) (solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, di chloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0286] The additional fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.Preferably, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0287] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

[0288] The additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013><105Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0289] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0290] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0291] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0292] As regards the liquid Ce-Ci6 hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, and optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0293] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquidparaffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0294] A hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.

[0295] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0296] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcy cl obutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

[0297] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0298] The composition may also comprise esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides.Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

[0299] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may notably be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0300] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0301] These esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

[0302] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids and notably of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0303] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0304] According to one embodiment, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin; better still from triglyceride oils of plant origin.

[0305] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1.

[0306] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0307] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.The solid faty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, beter still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0308] The solid faty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, beter still from 10 to 30 or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0309] The solid faty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0310] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0311] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scater light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0312] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0313] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax,carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0314] Mention may also be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Micro wax HW.

[0315] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0316] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0317] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.

[0318] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0319] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0320] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0321] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0322] R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from Ci4-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0323] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0324] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.

[0325] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

[0326] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0327] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3 -diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0328] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0329] Butters may also be used.

[0330] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25°C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.

[0331] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann ’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0332] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca lalifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mollleyana), phulwara butter (M. bulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma bulyracea). coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia lernifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocadobutter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea sweet almond butter (Primus amygdalus chilcis). cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0333] An example of a preferred butter is shea butter.

[0334] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.

[0335] Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0336] More preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0337] Even more preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0338] Most preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0339] According to a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the composition also comprises at least one C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferentially C12-C24 and more preferentially C14-C22 fatty alcohol, better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, even better still cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0340] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances other than esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better stillfrom 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0341] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0342] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0343] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C12-C24 fatty alcohols, the total content of C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0344] Amino acid compounds of formula (III):

[0345] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more compounds of amino acid type of formula (III) as defined below and / or salts thereof.

[0346] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type of formula (III) as defined below and / or salts thereof.

[0347] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “compound of amino acid type” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.According to the invention, said amino acid compounds of formula (III) are different from the polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) as described previously.

[0348] In particular, according to the invention, said compounds of amino acid type of formula (III) are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I), additional cationic surfactants and additional fatty substances as described previously, and also from the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) and the organic solvents as described below.

[0349] The amino acid compounds that may be used according to the invention are of formula (III):

[0350] COOH

[0351] H — C — N(H)P

[0352] K(III)

[0353] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:

[0354] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5- to 8-membered, preferably 5-membered, heterocycle, this ring possibly being substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl;

[0355] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl and preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0356] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle, this ring not being substituted.

[0357] Preferably, p = 2.

[0358] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0359] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0360] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of amino acid type of formula (III).These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, for instance the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.

[0361] The compounds of amino acid type of formula (III) may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0362] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0363] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type of formula (III) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0364] Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type of formula (III) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0365] Better still, the compound of amino acid type of formula (III) is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0366] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0367] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type of formula (III) is glycine. When the composition comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type of formula (III), the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type of formula (III) is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0368] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type of formula (III) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type of formula (III) chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0369] Better still, the total content of glycine in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0370] (Poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II):

[0371] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) below:

[0372]

[0373] in which formula (II):

[0374] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3; preferably, n = 1 or 2, more preferably n = 2;

[0375] - A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n = 0) or multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is other than 0), comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0376] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II), a salt thereof or mixtures thereof.

[0377] According to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are different from the polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) as described previously.

[0378] According to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are different from the compounds of amino acid type of formula (III) as described previously.

[0379] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants,cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I), additional cationic surfactants, additional fatty substances and compounds of amino acid type of formula (III) as described previously, and also from the organic solvents as described below.

[0380] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-Ce)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0381] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are a-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-Ce)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or a phenylene group, substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 hydroxyl group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0382] Mention may be made in particular of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:

[0383] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-Ce)alkyl and notably (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;

[0384] - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted with 1 OH radical; or

[0385] - n = 1 or 2 and A is a divalent or trivalent (Ci-Ce)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0386] Preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) may be chosen from: - citric acid (n = 2 and A trivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);

[0387] - salicylic acid (n = 0 and A = phenyl substituted with an OH);

[0388] - lactic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and

[0389] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0390] Even more preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acid of formula (II) is citric acid.

[0391] When the composition comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) and / or salts thereof, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0392] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, morepreferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0393] Organic solvents

[0394] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0395] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I), additional cationic surfactants chosen from those of formula (A) and additional fatty substances as described previously.

[0396] As organic solvents, examples that may be mentioned include a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (25°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0397] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably of C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0398] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are notably different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols.

[0399] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.

[0400] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3 -diol,glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.

[0401] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0402] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0403] Water

[0404] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises water. Preferably, the total water content is in the range from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0405] pH

[0406] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 7 and 12.5, even more preferentially between 8 and 12, better still between 9 and 12, and even better still between 10 and 11.5.

[0407] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0408] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0409] Among the basifying agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described previously.

[0410] Additives

[0411] The composition according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV-screeningagents, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0412] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0413] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a rich cream.

[0414] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1500 mPa.s (i.e. 1500 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e. 2000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP) and even more preferentially greater than or equal to 4400 mPa.s (i.e. 4400 cP).

[0415] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 1500 mPa.s to 10000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 9500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 9000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 8500 mPa.s, and even better still from 4000 mPa.s to 8000 mPa.s.

[0416] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a spin speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0417] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:

[0418] (i) at least one oxidation dye,

[0419] (ii) at least one alkaline agent,

[0420] (iii) at least two cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

[0421] (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) as described previously,

[0422] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; preferably cationic guar gums,

[0423] (vi) optionally at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol;preferably from the esters of a Cu-Cis carboxylic acid and of a Cu-Cis alcohol, (vii) optionally at least one additional fatty substance other than the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol,

[0424] (viii) optionally one or more amino acid compounds of formula (III), and

[0425] (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II).

[0426] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:

[0427] (i) at least one oxidation dye,

[0428] (ii) at least one alkaline agent,

[0429] (iii) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant,

[0430] (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, isomers thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name),

[0431] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; preferably cationic guar gums,

[0432] (vi) at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably from the esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol,

[0433] (vii) at least one additional fatty substance other than the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and

[0434] (viii) optionally one or more amino acid compounds of formula (III), preferably glycine, and

[0435] (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II), preferably citric acid.According to yet another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprises:

[0436] (i) at least one oxidation dye,

[0437] (ii) at least one alkaline agent,

[0438] (iii) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, and at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined previously,

[0439] (iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, isomers thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof and mixtures thereof; more preferentially N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (INCI name),

[0440] (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; preferably cationic guar gums,

[0441] (vi) at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably from the esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol,

[0442] (vii) at least one additional fatty substance other than esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, selected from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and

[0443] (viii) optionally one or more compounds of amino acid type of formula (III), preferably glycine, and

[0444] (ix) optionally one or more (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II), preferably citric acid.

[0445] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is composition (M) also comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0446] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.

[0447] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0448] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (M) according to the invention is within the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M) according to the invention.

[0449] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in composition (M) according to the invention is within the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (M) according to the invention.

[0450] According to another C2 embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent as defined above.

[0451] The process:

[0452] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step (i) of applying a composition according to the invention as defined previously onto said keratin fibres.

[0453] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres.

[0454] More preferentially, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (C2)according to the invention not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent as described previously.

[0455] Even more preferentially, the process according to the invention comprises the use of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0456] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (O) is within the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0457] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0458] In particular, composition (C2) according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously with or sequentially to the oxidizing composition (O).

[0459] Better still, the treatment process according to the invention includes at least: (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:

[0460] a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising:

[0461] (a) at least one oxidation dye,

[0462] (b) at least one alkaline agent,

[0463] (c) at least two cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

[0464] (d) at least one poly carboxylic acid of formula (I) as described previously, and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; and

[0465] a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described previously; and then

[0466] (ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.

[0467] This step (i) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously performed at the time of use, just before the application of composition (M) to the keratin fibres.

[0468] Preferably, the mixing of said composition (C2) according to the invention with the oxidizing composition (O) is performed in a weight ratio (C2) / (O) in the range from 1 / 3 to 1 / 1; more preferentially from 1 / 2 to 1 / 1.The pH of composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 8.5 to 12, and better still from 9 to 11.5.

[0469] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 500 mPa.s to 4000 mPa.s, preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3500 mPa.s, more preferentially from 550 mPa.s to 3000 mPa.s, better still from 600 mPa.s to 2800 mPa.s, and even better still from 650 mPa.s to 2400 mPa.s.

[0470] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0471] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.

[0472] The keratin fibre treatment process according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.

[0473] The composition(s) of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, and also to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.

[0474] The application of the composition(s) of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.

[0475] The treatment process according to the invention is generally performed at room temperature (between 15°C and 30°C).

[0476] The process of the invention may notably comprise a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described previously. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the composition(s) described previously.

[0477] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition(s) described previously, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing.The leave-on time of the compositions according to the invention and / or of composition (M) on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.

[0478] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions according to the invention and / or composition (M).

[0479] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.

[0480] Another subject of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined previously, for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0481] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined previously is used for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0482] Device

[0483] A subject of the invention is also a multi -compartment dyeing device or kit comprising: - at least a first compartment containing a composition according to the invention as defined previously; and

[0484] - at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined previously.

[0485] The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (O) are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.

[0486] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.Examples

[0487] The dye composition Al according to the invention and the comparative dye composition A2, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

[0488] [Table 1]

[0489]

[0490] Protocol:

[0491] At the time of use, each of the compositions Al and A2 is mixed with an oxidizing composition O at 20 volumes (i.e. 6% by weight of H2O2) in an A / O ratio of 1 / 1.5.

[0492] Each of the mixtures M(AI+O) and M(A2+O) is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands (NW) and to a lock of permanent-waved hair containing 90% white hair strands (PWW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.After a leave-on time of 30 min on a hotplate at 27°C, each lock of hair is rinsed and dried.

[0493] It is observed that the selectivity of the dyeing obtained with the composition according to the invention is better than the selectivity of the dyeing obtained with the comparative composition. The dyeing obtained with the composition according to the invention is thus more homogeneous than the dyeing obtained with the comparative composition.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:(i) at least one oxidation dye,(ii) at least one alkaline agent,(iii) at least two cationic surfactants, and(iv) at least one polycarboxylic acid of formula (I) below, salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and / or solvates thereof:R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)in whichRi represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group; andR2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group including from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers; preferably from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl-3,4-methylenedi oxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines,and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; even better still ammonium hydroxide.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkaline agent(s) is within the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.

7. Composition according to either of Claims 5 and 6, characterized in that the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my ri stami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, b ehenami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tall amidopropyl dimethylamine, olivami dopropy 1 dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

8. Composition according to any one of Claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X' represents an anion.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactants is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, solvates thereof and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamate, isomers thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometrical isomers thereof and solvates thereof is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide; preferably chosen from cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums; better still from cationic guar gums.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it also comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent; preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.

15. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.

16. Process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least:(i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:- a composition comprising:(a) at least one oxidation dye,(b) at least one alkaline agent,(c) at least two cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and(d) at least one poly carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined in Claim 1 or 10, and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with- a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; and then(ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.

17. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.

18. Multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

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