Efficient and accurate method for tailoring trousers through woolen seams

Abstract

The invention discloses an efficient and accurate method for cutting trousers through hair seams. A multi-dimensional parameterized model is formed based on human body hip shape classification (flat hip, standard hip and warped hip) and abdomen and hip thickness parameterization, and meanwhile, a middle crotch size, body shape difference, style styles (close-fitting and loose) and size changes (different sizes) are introduced as constraint conditions. The dynamic correlation between the crotch tip size and the middle crotch and the thickness of the abdomen and the buttocks is established, self-adaptive adjustment of different trousers types, body types and sizes is achieved, and the dynamic trousers crotch tip assembling method is achieved. The problems that in a traditional method, the model fitting degree is poor, and the parameter adaptability is weak are solved, accurate cutting and accurate positioning of the crotch structure size and the trouser body line of people with different hip models and different models of trousers are achieved, the comfort and stability of the trousers are considered, the balance degree reaches 95% or above after the trousers are put on, and the method is suitable for various models. And the industrial platemaking and personalized customization efficiency can be greatly improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the technical field of garment cutting, specifically a multi-dimensional parameterized model based on human hip shape classification (flat, standard, and raised) and parameterized hip-to-hip thickness. It also incorporates mid-crotch size, body type differences, style (tight, loose), and size variation (different sizes) as constraints. This model dynamically correlates crotch tip size with mid-rise and hip-to-hip thickness, enabling adaptive adjustment for different trouser shapes, body types, and sizes. It precisely positions the crotch structure and trouser body lines, ensuring both comfort and stability, and significantly improving the efficiency of both industrial pattern making and personalized customization.

[0002] Background technology, limitations of existing technology, traditional trouser cutting methods generally have the following defects: - Rough body type classification: Existing technologies often classify body types based on a single dimension, such as hip circumference or waist circumference (e.g., simply by "hip size"), without further consideration of the differences in surface characteristics of "flat hips," "perky hips," and "standard hips." This results in the crotch pattern not fitting the body's curves well. This can easily lead to issues like "flat hips have a heavy crotch, while those with perky hips have a tight crotch."

[0003] Static parameter design: In existing methods, crotch size (such as crotch tip width) mostly relies on fixed empirical formulas (such as crotch tip width = hip circumference × 0.08). The dynamic relationship between the mid-crotch width and the abdomen-hip thickness is not established, and it cannot adapt to the personalized needs of different body shapes and styles.

[0004] The connection of lines does not take into account the stability of the abdomen and hip thickness: the design of the inner side seam of the trouser body is mostly connected based on experience (such as directly connecting the "trouser leg-mid-length crotch tip"), without combining the precise positioning of the mid-length and abdomen and hip thickness distribution points. As a result, the abdomen and hip thickness changes after the inside of the trousers are closed, and the balance is lost in the mid-length and hip fat area. The inner seam is lifted or twisted (such as the trouser legs appearing in an inverted eight shape, or a straight eight shape with slanted seams).

[0005] Problems not solved by existing technologies: such as how to construct a linkage design model of "body shape characteristics-crotch size-trouser body lines" by quantifying hip shape classification and abdominal-hip thickness parameters to achieve accurate matching of crotch structure and human body curves, which are still technical problems that need to be solved urgently in this field. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Purpose of the Invention: To provide a dynamic crotch-finishing method for pants. Based on hip type classification and parameterized abdominal-hip thickness, this method quantifies the relationship between body shape and crotch size. This method addresses the poor fit and weak parameter adaptability of traditional methods, enabling precise tailoring of pants for different hip types and styles.

[0007] Technical Solution: Body type classification and parameterization of hip-to-hip thickness. Hip type classification criteria: (Figure 1) [Flat Hips]: Viewed from the side, the hip line is smooth, with a nearly straight line transition from the posterior thigh. The vertical distance between the most prominent point of the hip and the groin is less than 5 cm. The hip-to-hip thickness accounts for 22%-23% of the net hip circumference. [Standard Hips]: Viewed from the side, the hip line is rounded, heart-shaped or arc-shaped, with a natural transition from the waist to the posterior thigh. The vertical distance between the most prominent point of the hip and the groin is 5-10 cm. The hip-to-hip thickness accounts for 24% of the net hip circumference. [Perky Hips]: Viewed from the side, the highest point of the hip bulges noticeably upward and backward, forming a clear curve separating it from the thigh. The vertical distance between the most prominent point of the hip and the groin is 10-15 cm. The hip-to-hip thickness accounts for 25%-26% of the net hip circumference.

[0008] Locating the hip fat line and determining the front and back hip fat dimensions: (Figure 2) - Hip line location: Measure 8cm (2.4 inches) from the crotch line to determine the location of the hip line.

[0009] - Distribution of hip fat between front and back pieces: front hip fat = hip circumference (hip circumference of garment) × 1 / 4; back hip fat = hip circumference (hip circumference of garment) × 1 / 4 + 4CM - Distribution of front and back hip thickness: (Figure 3) Front hip thickness = Total hip thickness x 1 / 4 to 1 / 3. Draw a line extending from the hip fat point on the front crotch line to determine the thickness. Back hip thickness = Total hip thickness x 3 / 4 to 1 / 3. Cut the hip fat line on the back piece, leaving the sides intact. Pull the back crotch line open about 2.5cm to form a new hip fat line. Draw a line on the extended back crotch hip fat line to determine the thickness.

[0010] Mid-range determination: trousers are determined from the hip fat line to the middle of the trouser leg line. Depending on the style and body shape, they can be moved up or down about 3CM. Pants that are not long enough (such as 9-point trousers and 8-point trousers) are measured directly from the waist down to the knees.

[0011] Positioning the trouser centerline: (Figure 4) Measure 1 / 10 of the hip circumference (the finished garment's hip circumference) from the crotch line of the front piece. Draw a line perpendicular to the waistband. Some styles require a wider leg opening, which requires the centerline to be moved outward. The amount of outward movement depends on the style. The leg opening and mid-rise measurements are divided equally on either side of the centerline.

[0012] The construction of the inner and outer seams of the front and back pieces and the formation of the front and back crotch points: (Figure 3) Connection Logic: Connect points x, y, and z on the front piece to the waistband, forming the outer seam. Connect points A, B, and C, where they intersect with the crossbar to form the front crotch point and the inner seam. Lines should be drawn smoothly. Connect points x', y', and z' on the back piece to the waistband, forming the outer seam. Connect points A', B', and C', where they intersect with the crossbar to form the back crotch point and the inner seam. Lines should be drawn smoothly.

[0013] The formation of the dropped crotch: (Figure 3) Because there is a length difference between the connecting line between the crotch and the crotch tip in the inner seam of the back piece (B'-T) and the connecting line between the middle of the front piece and the small crotch tip (BE), the difference is the length of the dropped crotch, and finally BE=BE. Draw the crotch bend according to the frame in the figure.

[0014] - (Note: The abdominal-hip thickness refers to the vertical distance between the front and back of the human body's hip circumference. It can be calculated using the percentage of hip type classification and can be measured using tools such as 3D scanning and surface measurement. Alternatively, the person being measured can be asked to stand against a wall with their hips against the wall. A long ruler or a flat thick wooden board is placed perpendicular to the ground in front of them, with the side facing under the lower abdomen. The vertical distance between the board and the wall is the abdominal-hip thickness).

[0015] Beneficial effects: - Improved body shape adaptability: Through the classification of flat hips / standard hips / perky hips and parameterization of abdominal and hip thickness, the crotch fit is improved by 40% compared with traditional methods (test data: the front crotch pressure of those with flat hips is reduced by 35%, and the tightness of the back crotch of those with perky hips is reduced by 60%).

[0016] - Enhanced pattern stability: The crotch and hip-to-hip thickness distribution points are precisely connected in the inner seam, and the crotch tip formed by the natural intersection ensures that the hip-to-hip thickness of the pants remains unchanged. The balance of the pants after wearing reaches more than 95%, which is suitable for various patterns.

[0017] - Optimized pattern-making efficiency: Standardized parametric models can be directly imported into the apparel CAD system, reducing pattern-making time by 30% and the number of trial pattern modifications by 70%.

[0018] Supplementary explanation of the technical solution: Dynamic parameter adjustment mechanism: When the style is tight-fitting, the ratio of abdominal-hip thickness is calculated based on the reduced hip circumference (for example: net hip circumference 100CM-10CM=90CM, tights abdominal-hip thickness = 90CMX24%).

[0019] The principle of pants balance: divide the pants vertically into two zones: the waist and crotch. Horizontally, divide them into three zones: below the mid-crotch, from the hips to the mid-rise, and from the waist to the hips. If the waist and hips are roughly the same size, and the waist is darted and relaxed to evenly adjust to the body's net waist measurement, then the waist to the crotch is vertically balanced. If the hip thickness is roughly the same, then the hip to mid-rise zone is vertically balanced. The line connecting the crotch and mid-rise determines the hip thickness (Figure 3). Figure 1 This is a diagram showing the ratio of flat buttocks, standard buttocks, and raised buttocks to abdominal buttocks thickness. Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of the positioning of the hip fat line and the distribution of hip fat in the front and back pieces. Figure 3 This is the schematic diagram of the formation of the side line connection logic and the gear tip. Figure 4 It is the centerline positioning and hip fat positioning and value of pants with different hip shapes.

Claims

1. A new method for cutting trousers. It is characterized by: It includes a series of specific drawing steps and methods, through which accurate crotch cutting can be achieved, including: dividing the human body into three body types: flat hips, standard hips, and raised hips, determining the abdominal and hip thickness parameters of the human body according to the hip shape; and locating the hip fat value of the back piece of the pants.

2. The novel trousers cutting method according to claim 1, characterized in that: When determining the buttocks shape, observe the distance between the highest point of the buttocks and the thigh root from the side.

3. The novel trousers cutting method according to claim 1, characterized in that: To determine the abdominal-hip thickness parameter, either measurement tools are used or percentages are calculated based on hip type. Once the data is determined, the front and back panels are allocated the total abdominal-hip thickness; the front panel accounts for 1 / 4 to 1 / 3 of the total abdominal-hip thickness, while the back panel accounts for 3 / 4 to 2 / 3. A line connecting the abdominal-hip thickness points of the front and back panels with the mid-point intersects the horizontal crotch to form the crotch point of the front and back panels.

4. The novel trousers cutting method according to claim 1, characterized in that: After determining the front and back crotch tips, draw the inner and outer seam lines in circles, then find the difference between the inner seam of the front piece and the inner seam of the back piece to form the crotch of the back piece, make the inner seams equal, and then use the frame to draw the crotch bend.

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