Skin care composition

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate / caprate. The compositions exhibit improved water repellency (lotus effect) and sensory properties.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing alkyldiol and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate / capric acid. The compositions exhibit improved water resistance (lotus effect).

[0002] The leaves of the lotus plant exhibit remarkable water-repellent and self-cleaning properties. Although the lotus plant prefers to grow in muddy rivers and lakes, its leaves and flowers remain clean and essentially non-wetting. The lotus plant achieves this effect by producing leaves and flowers with an extremely hydrophobic surface. When the leaves come into contact with water, water droplets shrink into essentially spherical beads, which roll off the surface, removing any dust particles they encounter.

[0003] Conventional methods for formulating waterproof or water-resistant cosmetic compositions rely on the use of hydrophobic film-forming polymers. However, these film-forming polymers often render the products unattractive to the end consumer due to the resulting sensory properties, as such products typically exhibit an oily, dull, and sticky feel on the skin, as outlined in DE 102010063825.

[0004] Therefore, there has always been a need for aesthetically pleasing cosmetic compositions with improved water resistance, for example, to enhance the water resistance of cosmetic compositions.

[0005] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the combined use of isoamyl caprylate and alkyl diol significantly improves the water resistance (lotus effect) of the composition, while even improving its sensory properties.

[0006] Therefore, in a first embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising an alkyldiol and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate.

[0007] Another subject of the present invention relates to the use of alkyldiols for increasing the water resistance of cosmetic compositions comprising one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one cosmetic oil is isoamyl caprylate.

[0008] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the steps of: preparing a cosmetic composition comprising both alkyldiol and isoamyl caprylate / decanoate, applying the composition to the skin, allowing volatile components to evaporate, thereby forming a hydrophobic film, and optionally evaluating the effect.

[0009] Isoamyl caprylate caprate, also known as “fatty acid, C8-10 (even number), 3-methylbutyl ester” (EC No.: 694-886-1; CAS No.: 1365095-43-7), is available under the trade name Oxysmooth CP. It is derived from sugarcane and primarily from C8 and C10 plant fatty acids in a ratio of approximately 1:1 (particularly in the range of 1:0.9 to 0.9:1). Specifically, the term “isoamyl caprylate caprate” refers to a mixture essentially composed of isoamyl caprylate (C8) (approximately 45-55% by weight) and isoamyl caprylate (C10) (approximately 40-50% by weight). As is well known and used herein, the term “essentially composed of” means that the total amount of the components ideally adds up to 100% by weight. However, it cannot be ruled out that small amounts of impurities originating from the production process (e.g., isoamyl hexanoate and / or isoamyl laurate (C12)) may be present at a maximum of 10%, preferably at a maximum of 7.5%, i.e. in the range of 0-10 or 0-7.5%, respectively, as measured by GC-MS area % analysis.

[0010] In all embodiments of the invention, based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of isoamyl caprylate in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, most preferably at least 7.5% by weight, for example at least 10% by weight.

[0011] In all embodiments of the invention, based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of isoamyl caprylate in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 25% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, for example less than or equal to 15% by weight.

[0012] Even more preferably, in all embodiments of the invention, the amount of isoamyl caprylate / capric acid in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is selected from the range of 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5% to 20% by weight, and most preferably 10% to 15% by weight. Other suitable ranges based on the total weight of the composition are selected from the ranges of 5% to 25% by weight, 5% to 20% by weight, 5% to 15% by weight, 7.5% to 25% by weight, 7.5% to 20% by weight, 7.5% to 15% by weight, 10% to 30% by weight, 10% to 25% by weight, or 10% to 20% by weight.

[0013] In all embodiments of the invention, suitable alkyldiols include 1,2-alkyldiols and 1,3-alkyldiols, such particularly 1,2-butanediol, butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and 1,3-propanediol. In all embodiments of the invention, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, and / or pentanediol are preferably used. In all embodiments of the invention, most preferably, the composition comprises 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, or pentanediol as alkyldiols, preferably without any other alkyldiols. Even more preferably, the composition comprises butanediol or pentanediol, even more preferably as the only alkyldiol, because these result in a particularly beneficial improvement in water resistance.

[0014] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of alkyldiol in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably selected from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, for example from 2% to 5% by weight. Other suitable ranges include 2.5% to 5% by weight, or 2.5% to 4% by weight, for example 2.5% to 3.5% by weight.

[0015] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 10% to 15% by weight of isoamyl caprylate and 2% to 5% by weight of alkyldiol, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In all embodiments of the invention, preferably, the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate to alkyldiol is in the range of 1:1 to 25:1, more preferably in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, and most preferably in the range of 4:1 to 10:1. Other suitable ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.

[0017] As used herein, the term "cosmetic oil" refers to a compound suitable for use in cosmetics, which has a melting point below about 30°C and is generally insoluble in water and includes a hydrophobic portion, such as, in particular, a hydrocarbon group having at least six carbons.

[0018] The hydrophobic portion may include a straight-chain, cyclic, aromatic, saturated, or unsaturated group having a carbon chain of at least six carbons, wherein none of the six carbons are carbonyl carbons or have a hydrophilic portion directly bonded thereto (as defined below). The cosmetic oil preferably contains a fatty acid or fatty alcohol portion. More preferably, the cosmetic oil does not include a hydrophilic portion, such as anionic, cationic, or zwitterionic groups, or ionic groups as polar groups, including sulfates, sulfonates, carboxylates, phosphates, ammonium (including monoalkylammonium, dialkylammonium, and trialkylammonium), pyridinium, imidazoline, amidine, poly(ethyleneimine), alkyl sulfonate ammonium, alkyl carboxylate ammonium, amphoteric acetate, etc.

[0019] Particularly suitable cosmetic oils for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, other than isoamyl caprylate and caprylate, include benzoic acid C. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, dioctyl esters / didecanoates, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl carbonate, diC tartrate 12-13 Alkyl ester, diethylhexyl eugenol malonate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer, triheptanyl glycerol, C-lactic acid 12-13 Alkyl esters, benzoic acid C 16-17 Alkyl esters, propylheptayl octanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylate, octyl dodecyl alcohol, and ethylhexyl cocoate. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional oil besides isoamyl octanoate and capric trioxylate, one or more oils being more preferably dibutyl benzoate, phenethyl benzoate, dioctyl carbonate, and C6 benzoate. 12- C 15 Alkyl esters, octyl carbonate, capric acid / capric acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, most preferably, the additional oil used in combination with isoamyl caprylate is benzoic acid C. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters. Even more preferably, the sunscreen composition according to the invention contains only isoamyl caprylate and C benzoate. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters are used as cosmetic oils.

[0020] The total amount of one or more additional oils (other than isoamyl caprylate and caprylate) is preferably in the range of 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably in the range of 7.5% to 20% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 10% to 20% by weight.

[0021] Furthermore, in all embodiments of the invention, it is preferred to have one or more additional oils (e.g., particularly benzoic acid C). 12 -C 15 The weight ratio of alkyl ester to isoamyl octanoate / decanoate is selected from 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, and most preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.5.

[0022] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of cosmetic oil (including isoamyl caprylate and caprylate) in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably selected from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 45% by weight, most preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, for example from 25% to 35% by weight.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an emulsion.

[0024] As used herein, the term "emulsion" refers to a composition comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, such as, in particular, O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple emulsions or Pickering emulsions.

[0025] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of the oil phase (i.e., the phase comprising all cosmetic oils and fats as well as all oil-soluble components of the composition) in the emulsion according to the invention is preferably at least 25% by weight, for example in the range of 25% to 70% by weight, preferably in the range of 30% to 60% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 30% to 50% by weight.

[0026] According to one or even a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention outlined herein is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art and is illustrated in the examples.

[0027] In all embodiments of the invention, it is further advantageous if the O / W emulsifier is a phosphate ester emulsifier. In particular, preferred phosphate ester emulsifiers are C8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-2 phosphate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-5 phosphate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-8 phosphate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-10 phosphate, cetearyl phosphate, C6-10 alkanol polyether-4 phosphate, C12-15 alkanol polyether-2 phosphate, C12-15 alkanol polyether-3 phosphate, cetearyl alcohol polyether-2 phosphate DEA salt, cetearyl phosphate DEA salt, oleyl alcohol polyether-3 phosphate DEA salt, cetearyl phosphate potassium, decanol polyether-4 phosphate, decanol polyether-6 phosphate, and tris(lauryl alcohol polyether-4) phosphate. One specific phosphate emulsifier according to the present invention is potassium cetyl phosphate, for example, as described by DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Kaiseraugst. Purchased from a merchant.

[0028] Other suitable O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention include: PEG-30 dihydroxystearate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 amygdalin glycerides, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, PEG-7 olive oil, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-60 amygdalin glycerides, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG- 80% Sorbitan Laurate, Stearyl Ether-2, Stearyl Ether-12, Oleyl Ether-2, Cetyl Ether-2, Laureth-4, Oleyl Ether-10, Oleyl Ether-10 / Polyoxyethylene 10 Oleyl Ether, Cetyl Ether-10, Isostearyl Ether-20, Cetyl Stearyl Ether-20, Oleyl Ether-20, Stearyl Ether-20, Stearyl Ether-21, Cetyl Ether-20, Isocetyl Ether-20, Laureth-23, Stearyl Ether-100, Glyceryl Stearate Citric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate (Self-Emulsifying), Stearic Acid, Stearate, Polyglycerol-3-Methylglucose Distearate. Other suitable emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, and hydrated polyisobutylene. In addition, one or more synthetic polymers can be used as emulsifiers. Examples include PVP eicosene copolymers, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, acrylate / stearyl polyether-20 methacrylate copolymers, PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] Another particularly suitable class of O / W emulsifiers is nonionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil, such as (INCI name) cetearyl oleate and sorbitan oleate (chemical composition: cetearyl ester and sorbitan anhydride ester of olive oil fatty acids), which are sold under the trade name OLIVEM 1000.

[0030] Further suitable are commercially available polymeric emulsifiers, such as hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, for example, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, which are available from Noveon under the trade name... Obtained through commercial purchase under TR-1 and TR-2.

[0031] Also suitable are polyalkylene glycol ethers, such as Brij 72 (polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl alcohol ether) or Brij 721 (polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl alcohol ether, for example, available from Croda).

[0032] The particularly advantageous O / W emulsifiers according to the invention are one or more of the following: polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, lauryl glucoside (and) polyglycerol-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucoside; polyglycerol-6 stearate (and) polyglycerol-6 behenate, cetearyl olive oil (and) sorbitan ester, arachidonic acid (and) behenol (and) arachidonic acid, cetearyl alcohol (and) cocoyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside (and) coconut alcohol, PEG-100 stearate (and) glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, stearyl alcohol polyether-20, stearyl alcohol polyether-21, stearyl alcohol polyether-25, stearyl alcohol polyether-2, cetearyl alcohol polyether-25 and cetearyl alcohol polyether-6 (all listed by INCI names).

[0033] According to the present invention, it is particularly preferred that the composition contains potassium cetyl phosphate as an emulsifier.

[0034] Based on the total weight of the composition, at least one O / W or Si / W emulsifier having all the limitations and preferred methods given herein is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 wt% to 10 wt%, particularly in the range of 0.5 wt% to 5 wt%, most particularly in the range of 0.5 wt% to 4 wt%, for example in the range of 1 wt% to 4 wt%, 1 wt% to 3 wt%, or 2 wt% to 3 wt%.

[0035] Suitable W / O- or W / Si- emulsifiers according to the present invention are fatty acid diesters or polyglycerol esters, also known as polyglycerol esters / diesters (i.e., polymers in which fatty acids are combined by esterification with polyglycerol), for example, available at Evonik as Isolan GPS [INCI name: polyglycerol-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebate (i.e., a diester of isostearic acid, polyhydroxystearate and sebacic acid with polyglycerol-4)] or available at Cognis as Dehymuls PGPH (INCI: polyglycerol-2 dihydroxystearate), PEG-30 dihydroxystearate, cetyl dimethylsiloxane copolyol, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol esters of oleic acid / isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglycerol-4 oleate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, and potassium ricinoleate. The composition includes sodium cocoate, sodium tallow, potassium castorate, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable W / O emulsifiers are lauryl polyglycerol-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane and / or PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane and / or cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 polydimethylsiloxane and / or PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer and / or PEG / PPG-18 / 18 polydimethylsiloxane. The amount of the at least one W / O emulsifier relative to the total weight of the composition is preferably from about 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 7% by weight.

[0036] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention also advantageously contain at least one auxiliary surfactant, for example selected from the group consisting of monoglycerides and diglycerides and / or fatty alcohols. The amount of the auxiliary surfactant is typically in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, particularly in the range of 0.5% to 7% by weight, most particularly in the range of 1% to 5% by weight, or selected in the range of 2% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly suitable auxiliary surfactants are selected from the following list: alkyl alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol (Lorol C16, Lanette 16), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O), stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18), betaine alcohol (Lanette 22), polyhydroxystearic acid, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl myristate (Estol 3650), hydrogenated coconut oil glyceride (Lipocire Na10), and mixtures thereof.

[0037] In all embodiments of the invention, it is particularly advantageous that the composition further comprises cetearyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol, preferably both, in an amount (total) of 1% to 5% by weight, preferably 2% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In another advantageous aspect of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises a preservative and / or a preservative enhancer, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (octanoyl diol), 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and p-hydroxyacetophenone; more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylglycerin, caprylic glyceride, and mixtures thereof; and most preferably selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin and mixtures thereof. When present, the preservative or preservative enhancer is preferably used in an amount of 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, for example, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight or 0.75% to 1.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin, preferably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0040] Cosmetic compositions may further include commonly used UVA, UVB, or broadband UV filters. Such compositions are generally referred to as sunscreens.

[0041] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine (INCI, also referred to herein as BEMT (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine)) as a UV filter material, as its addition further increases the waterproofness of the composition, as shown in the examples.

[0042] BEMT, also known as 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (chemical name) or bemotriazine alcohol (INN), is a broad-spectrum UV filter that absorbs both UVB and UVA rays. It has two absorption peaks, at 310 nm and 340 nm. BEMT is recommended for use in sunscreens, day care products, skin brightening products (such as BB cream), and whitening products.

[0043] In all embodiments of the invention, based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of BEMT in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously selected in the range of 0.4 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably in the range of 0.4 wt% to 9 wt%, 0.4 wt% to 8 wt%, 0.4 wt% to 7 wt%, 0.4 wt% to 6 wt%, 0.4 wt% to 5 wt%, 0.4 wt% to 4 wt%, 0.4 wt% to 3 wt%, 0.5 wt% to 3 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 9 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 8 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 7 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 6 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 5 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 4 wt%, 0.8 wt% to 3 wt%, for example in the range of 1 wt% to 5 wt%, 1 wt% to 3 wt%, 2 wt% to 5 wt%, 2 wt% to 4 wt%, or 2 to 3 wt%.

[0044] Preferably, the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate to BEMT is in the range of 1:1 to 25:1, more preferably in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, and most preferably in the range of 4:1 to 10:1. Other suitable ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.

[0045] Preferably, in all embodiments of the invention, the weight ratio of alkyldiol to BEMT is in the range of 0.5:5 to 5:0.5, more preferably in the range of 0.5:3 to 3:0.5, and most preferably in the range of 5:1 to 1:1. Other suitable ranges are 4:1 to 1:1, 3:1 to 1:1, and 2:1 to 1:1. Preferably, in all embodiments of the invention, the alkyldiol is used in excess relative to BEMT, i.e., in a weight ratio >1.

[0046] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition further comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (DHHB).

[0047] Based on the total weight of the composition, the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (which can be used as a component in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention) is present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The amount of (purchased from 1789) is preferably selected from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, for example from 2% to 5% by weight.

[0048] Based on the total weight of the composition, the amount of hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate (available as Uvinul A plus) in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably selected from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, for example from 2% to 5% by weight.

[0049] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the composition comprises BEMT and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, preferably in the absence of DHHB, or even more preferably as the sole UV filter.

[0050] In another embodiment, preferably, the composition comprises BEMT and hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, preferably in the absence of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and even more preferably as the sole UV filter.

[0051] Since the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application, it is well understood that they contain physiologically acceptable media, i.e., media compatible with keratinous substances such as skin, mucous membranes, and keratin fibers. In particular, physiologically acceptable media are cosmetically acceptable carriers.

[0052] As used herein, the term "cosmetically acceptable carrier" refers to all carriers and / or excipients and / or diluents commonly used in topical cosmetic compositions (e.g., skin care formulations), and includes, for example, cosmetic oils.

[0053] The exact amount of the carrier will depend on the actual level of the UV filter material and any other optional components (e.g., other active ingredients) that a person skilled in the art would classify as different from the carrier.

[0054] In an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains 50% to 99%, preferably 60% to 98%, more preferably 70% to 98%, and in particular 80% to 95% of a carrier, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0055] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the carrier also comprises at least 30 wt%, more preferably at least 40 wt%, and most preferably at least 45 wt% water, for example, particularly 50 wt% to 90 wt% water. Other suitable ranges are 50 wt% to 75 wt%, 50 wt% to 70 wt%, and 55 wt% to 65 wt%.

[0056] In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, preferably a cosmetic (non-therapeutic) composition.

[0057] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to mammalian keratinocytes, for example, particularly to human skin or human scalp and hair.

[0058] The term "cosmetic composition" as used in this application refers to, for example, "Kosmetika" in

[0059] Lexikon Chemie, 10 th edition 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York as well as to cosmetic compositions as disclosed in A.Domsch, "CosmeticCompositions", Verlag für chemische Industrie (ed.H.Ziolkowsky), 4 th Cosmetic compositions disclosed in edition 1992.

[0060] Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are skin care preparations, decorative preparations, and functional preparations.

[0061] Examples of skin care preparations include, in particular, photoprotective preparations, anti-aging preparations, preparations for treating photoaging, body washes, body gels, treatment creams, skin-protecting ointments, balms, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, facial and / or body moisturizers, skin tanning preparations (i.e., compositions for artificial / non-sun tanning and / or browning of human skin), such as self-tanning creams, and skin brightening preparations.

[0062] Examples of decorative preparations include mascara or dry and wet cosmetic preparations.

[0063] Examples of functional formulations are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing active ingredients, such as hormone formulations, vitamin formulations, plant extract formulations, anti-aging formulations, and / or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) formulations, but not limited to these.

[0064] In one specific embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a photoprotective agent (sunscreen product, sun protection agent), such as a sunscreen lotion, sunscreen wash, sunscreen cream, sunscreen barrier, or topical or daily care cream, with or without an SPF (sunscreen factor) label. Sunscreen creams, sunscreen washes, and sunscreen lotions are of particular interest.

[0065] The compositions of the present invention (including carriers) may contain conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives / antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, organic solvents, siloxanes, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, defoamers, cosmetic ingredients (e.g., fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof), propellants, acidifiers or alkalizers, dyes, pigments / colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating agents and / or multivalent chelating agents, essential oils, skin-feeling agents, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients commonly formulated into such compositions.

[0066] According to the present invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain additional ingredients, such as those for the following purposes: skin brightening; sun protection; treatment of hyperpigmentation; prevention or reduction of acne, wrinkles, fine lines, atrophy and / or inflammation; chelating agents and / or sequestrants; anti-cellulite and weight loss (e.g., phytanoic acid), firming, moisturizing and revitalizing, self-tanning, soothing agents, and agents for improving elasticity and skin barrier, as well as carriers and / or excipients or diluents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

[0067] Unless otherwise stated, the excipients, additives, diluents, etc. mentioned below are suitable for use in cosmetic compositions according to the present invention. Depending on the desired product, those skilled in the art can readily determine the necessary amounts of cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives.

[0068] Additional components can be added to the oil phase, the aqueous phase, or separately if deemed appropriate. Those skilled in the art can easily adjust the addition pattern.

[0069] Examples of cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives, and active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry and suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), accessible via the online database (INFO BASE) (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp), but are not limited thereto.

[0070] In some cases, the cosmetic active ingredients available in this article can provide more than one benefit or act through more than one mode of action.

[0071] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients, adjuvants, diluents and additives and / or their amounts such that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the combination according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by one or more of the contemplated additions.

[0072] In another advantageous aspect, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are free from any parabens, benzyl chloride, piroctone ethanolamine, lauroyl arginine, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, bropol, benzalkonium chloride, formaldehyde-releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM ​​hydantoin, chlorphenesin, and IPBC (iodopropinylbutyl carbamate).

[0073] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not contain octocrylene (CAS No.: 6197-30-4).

[0074] In all embodiments of the present invention, the term "octocrylene-free" means that octocrylene has not been intentionally added to the composition, i.e., the compound is undetectable by standard analytical methods (e.g., HPLC).

[0075] In another advantageous aspect, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are also free of hydroxybenzophenone and / or methyl benzyl camphor.

[0076] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more emollients that soothe and soften the skin. As examples, emollients may be silicones (polydimethylsiloxane, cyclodimethylsiloxane), vegetable oils (grape seed, sesame seed, jojoba oil, etc.), butters (cocoa butter, shea butter), and petrolatum derivatives (petrolatum paste, mineral oil).

[0077] On the other hand, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain one or more fragrances selected from limonene, citral, linalool, α-isomethylionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-amylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetrahydronaphthalene, adipate diester, cinnamaldehyde, and salicylic acid. Amyl ester, α-pentylcinnamaldehyde, α-methylionone, butylphenyl methylpropionaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, pentylcinnamyl alcohol, anisole, benzoin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenyl methylpropionaldehyde, cardamom oil, cedrol, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, methyl crotonyl citronellol, citrus oil, coumarin, diethyl succinate, ethyl linalool, eugenol, Evernia furfuracea extract, Evernia prunastri extract, farnesol, guaiac oil, hexyl cinnamaldehyde, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellol, lavender oil, lemon oil, linalyl acetate, citrus oil, peppermint PCA, methyl hexadecane, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate, vanillin.

[0078] The compositions of the present invention may advantageously include a moisturizer. A moisturizer is a compound or mixture of compounds that imparts to the cosmetic composition the quality of reducing stratum corneum moisture loss (as determined experimentally, e.g., by experimental determination of transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or positively influencing stratum corneum hydration and / or maintaining actual hydration after application to or distribution on the skin surface.

[0079] Non-limiting examples of advantageous humectants used in this invention include glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates (especially sodium lactate), biosaccharide gum-1, wild soybean (Glycine soya), ethylhexyloxyglycerin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and urea. A further advantage, in particular, is the use of polymeric humectants selected from water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelatinable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous examples include hyaluronic acid, chitosan, and / or fucose-rich polysaccharides (registered in Chemical Abstracts, registration number 178463-23-5 and available, for example, from SOLABIA SA). Obtained under name 1000. Moisturizers can also be advantageously used as active anti-wrinkle ingredients to prevent skin changes that occur, for example, during skin aging.

[0080] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also advantageously, but not mandatoryly, include fillers that have the following effects: for example, further improving the feel and cosmetic properties of the formulation and causing or enhancing, for example, a velvety or silky skin feel. Advantageous fillers in the context of the present invention are starches and starch derivatives (e.g., tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, sodium octenyl succinate or aluminum starch, etc.), Vavance pigments (e.g., Valvance Touch 210 or 250) that do not have a primary UV filtering effect or a coloring effect, and / or And / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon and silica dimethylsilyl alkylate.

[0081] The aqueous phase of the compositions of the present invention may advantageously contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants, such as alcohols, particularly low-C alcohols, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, or low-C polyols, and their ethers, preferably glycerin; electrolytes; self-tanning agents; and particularly one or more thickeners, which may be advantageously selected from silica, aluminum silicate, polysaccharides and / or their derivatives, such as hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and particularly advantageously selected from polyacrylates, preferably polyacrylates selected from the group consisting of carbopol, examples being carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984 and 5984, in each case alone or in combination. Other advantageous thickeners according to the invention are those having INCI names such as acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers (e.g., Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from NOVEON), Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), and Simugel NS (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60). In all embodiments of the invention, other suitable thickeners are biopolymers such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, and Sphingomonas fermentation extracts.

[0082] According to the present invention, preferably, the composition comprises one or more thickeners selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, crosslinked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecane copolymers, preferably xanthan gum and / or hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate, and most preferably both xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate.

[0083] Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of one or more thickeners in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from 0.1 wt% to 1 wt%, preferably from 0.1 wt% to 1.5 wt%, most preferably from 0.1 wt% to 0.1 wt%, for example from 0.25 wt% to 1 wt%.

[0084] In another aspect, the composition may have an SPF of at least 15, preferably at least 20, and most preferably at least 30.

[0085] Advantageously, according to the invention, the compositions of the invention may contain additional film-forming agents.

[0086] Particularly advantageous is the selection of the additional film-forming agents from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)-based polymers, octanoylglycerol / sebaic acid copolymers, diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dilinoleate / salt, and / or ethyl cellulose.

[0087] Particularly preferred are copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as PVP hexadecane copolymer and PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available from GAF Chemicals Corporation under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220.

[0088] Also advantageous are other polymeric film-forming agents such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, available under the trade name Flexan 130 from National Starch and Chemical Corp., and / or polyisobutylene, available under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000 from Rewo. Examples of other suitable polymers are polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohol, PVP, PVP / VA copolymer, polyethylene glycol, and acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer (Dermacryl 79). Also advantageous is the use of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (INCI hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate / salt), available under the name Risocast DA-H from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, or PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, available under the trade name Crodamol STS from Croda Chemicals.

[0089] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention typically have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably in the range of 4 to 8, and most preferably in the range of 4 to 7. The pH can be readily adjusted as needed using a suitable acid (e.g., citric acid) or base (e.g., NaOH) according to standard methods in the art.

[0090] The amount of topical sunscreen lotion applied to the skin is not critical and can be easily adjusted by those skilled in the art. Preferably, the amount is 0.1 mg / cm³. 2 Up to 3mg / cm 2 Within the skin range, preferably at 0.1 mg / cm². 2 Up to 2 mg / cm 2 Within the skin, the optimal concentration is 0.5 mg / cm³. 2 Up to 2 mg / cm 2 Choose within the skin area.

[0091] According to the present invention, the sunscreen of the present invention is used for preventing skin aging (especially for preventing skin aging caused by UV) and as a sunscreen composition.

[0092] Finally, the subject of this invention is a method for cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances (e.g., skin), wherein the composition defined herein is applied to said keratinous substance (e.g., skin). The method is particularly suitable for protecting the skin from the adverse effects of UV radiation, such as sunburn and / or photoaging, while avoiding fluorescent stains on clothing and / or garments, if the composition contains a UV-filtering substance.

[0093] The following examples are provided to further illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are merely illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

[0094] Experimental Section

[0095] formulation

[0096] The formulations (O / W emulsions) listed in Table 1 have been prepared according to standard methods in the art.

[0097] (A) Waterproofing test

[0098] 1) Apply 40 mg of the preparation in small drops to the surface. Place the mixture on a 2mü board (5cm x 5cm) and distribute it evenly.

[0099] 2) Store the plate at 40°C for 15 minutes.

[0100] 3) Place a 50-microliter droplet of water on the plate, wait 1 minute, and take a picture.

[0101] 4) Measure the diameter of the droplet.

[0102] 5) For each formulation, measure 3 droplets.

[0103] Table 1: Cosmetic O / W Emulsions

[0104]

[0105] As can be retrieved from the results in Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit improved water resistance compared to the reference formulation.

[0106] Table 2: Sunscreen Compositions

[0107]

[0108]

[0109] As can be retrieved from the results in Table 2, the addition of BEMT, BMDBM, and DHHB further improves water resistance.

[0110] (B) Sensory evaluation

[0111] All sensory evaluations were performed using the emulsions shown in Tables 1 and 2. Sensory characteristics were then determined by a trained panel using a descriptive sensory evaluation process based on the parameters outlined in Table 3. 50 μl of the corresponding emulsion from Tables 1 and 2 was applied to a point on the surface of the forearm. After application, the emulsion was rubbed into the skin until absorbed. Parameters were evaluated immediately after the rubbing-in stage. The results are plotted in Table 3 below.

[0112] Table 3: Results of Sensory Evaluation (Sensory Attractiveness)

[0113]

[0114] ± acceptable

[0115] + Good

[0116] ++Very good

[0117] As can be retrieved from the results in Table 3, the compositions according to the invention exhibit superior skin feel and / or appearance compared to the reference, resulting in improved overall sensory appeal.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising an alkyldiol and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of alkyldiol is selected from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, for example from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of isoamyl caprylate / capric acid is selected from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5% to 20% by weight, and most preferably 10% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate to alkyldiol is selected from the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, preferably from 4:1 to 10:

1.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one additional cosmetic oil is present, said additional cosmetic oil being selected from benzoic acid C. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters, dioctanoate / didecanoate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl carbonate, diC tartrate 12-13 Alkyl ester, diethylhexyl eugenol malonate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer, triheptanyl glycerol, C-lactic acid 12-13 Alkyl esters, benzoic acid C 16-17 The group consisting of alkyl esters, propylheptayl octanoate, octanoic acid / decanoic acid triglyceride, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylate, octyldodecanool and ethylhexyl cocoate.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one additional cosmetic oil is benzoic acid C. 12 -C 15 Alkyl esters.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one additional cosmetic oil to isoamyl caprylate is selected from the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, and most preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.

5.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate emulsifier, and most preferably in the presence of potassium cetyl phosphate.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is selected from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and most preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more preservatives / preservative enhancers selected from phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of behenol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, preferably one or more of behenol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, most preferably cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

14. Use of alkyldiols to increase the water resistance of cosmetic compositions containing isoamyl caprylate and caprylate.

15. A method for improving the water resistance of a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the steps of: A cosmetic composition comprising both alkyldiol and isoamyl caprylate / decanoate is prepared, the composition is applied to the skin, allowing the volatile components to evaporate to form a hydrophobic film, and optionally the effects are evaluated.

Images