New cosmetic or dermatological composition containing a strain of live probiotic bacteria.

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria and at least one linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, coco caprylate, coco caprate, undecane and / or tridecane, linoleic acid, behenyl alcohol or any mixture thereof, wherein the total content of linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules is at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.The invention also relates to the use of a lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, coco caprylate, coco caprate, undecane and / or tridecane, linoleic acid, behenyl alcohol or any mixture thereof to maintain the viability of a live probiotic bacterial strain in a composition intended for topical administration.

Description

Title of the invention: New cosmetic or dermatological composition containing a strain of live probiotic bacteria. technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of dermatological or cosmetic compositions containing a probiotic bacterial strain and at least 40% by weight of at least one liposoluble and lipodispersible linear-chain molecule and their uses. Technological background

[0002] It is recognized that probiotics are useful when applied topically to the skin. Various clinical studies report the beneficial effects of probiotics on the skin in both cosmetic and dermatological applications. Probiotics are indeed of interest as a cosmetic ingredient (M. Rahmati Roudsari et al., Health effects of probiotics on the skin. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2015;55(9): 1219-40). The use of probiotics may also have great potential in the prevention and treatment of skin diseases, including eczema, atopic dermatitis, acne, and allergic inflammation. Other applications are mentioned, such as the treatment of skin hypersensitivity, UV-induced skin lesions, and wound protection.

[0003] However, few probiotic products for topical applications are available on the market due to technical difficulties related to the nature of this type of product. The main difficulty is maintaining the viability of the probiotic in the formulation while preventing its proliferation, both during manufacturing and storage. Indeed, most conventional cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations induce a loss of probiotic viability during manufacturing and / or storage, particularly due to the presence of compounds harmful or biocidal to bacteria. Conversely, in the absence of these compounds, especially in aqueous formulations, the probiotic can proliferate, making its preservation impossible.

[0004] Furthermore, topical compositions must allow sufficient retention of the probiotic on the skin over time, which is not possible with conventional formulations [Garima Sharma, Manuhaar Sharma, Rishav Sood, Jayanthi Neelamraju, Suvarna G. Lakshmi, Ratna Sudha Madempudi, Praveen Rishi & Indu Pal Kaur (2021) Self-preserving gelatin emulgel containing whole cell probiotic for topical use: preclinical safety, efficacy, and germination studies, Expert Opinion on Drug Delivery, 18:11, 1777-1789].

[0005] These difficulties thus hinder the use of probiotics by topical application, in particularly in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.

[0006] The present invention therefore aims to solve this technical problem by providing a composition that allows the skin to be supplemented with probiotics by topical application in a safe, effective and practical manner while allowing the probiotic thus formulated to improve the health and / or beauty of the skin locally.

[0007] Solutions already exist in these areas but present drawbacks such as excessive formulation or application constraints, and are insufficient. For example, solutions for application using microneedles, patches, or encapsulation of probiotics have been described (WO2020 / 249734A1; Hui-Jiuan Chen et al. Transdermal Delivery of Living and Biofunctional Probiotics through Dissolvable Microneedle Patches. ACS Applied Bio Materials 2018 1 (T), 374-381). Oily gels comprising an oil and an oily viscosity-enhancing agent have also been described (WO2020 / 249734A1). Summary of the invention

[0008] In this context and unexpectedly and surprisingly, the Applicant discovered that a composition intended for topical application, in particular cosmetic and / or dermatological, containing at least 40%, by weight, of lipo-soluble and lipo-dispersible linear chain molecules, of which at least one is chosen from among the specifically selected lipo-soluble and lipo-dispersible linear chain molecules, possibly combined with one or more other lipo-soluble and lipo-dispersible linear chain molecules, makes it possible to solve this technical problem in a safe, simple, reliable, practical and effective manner.

[0009] The Applicant has indeed discovered that the use of one or more specifically selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, possibly in combination with one or more other linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, at a minimum total content of linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules of at least 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of a composition intended for topical application, such as a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, makes it possible to maintain the viability of a live probiotic bacterium and thus solve this technical problem.

[0010] The lipid-soluble and lipid-dispersible linear-chain molecules specifically selected according to the invention are chosen from: - dicaprylyl carbonate, - coconut caprylate, possibly combined with coconut caprate, preferably a mixture of coconut caprylate and coconut caprate, - undecane and / or tridecane, - linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear chain esters (e.g.; isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol, - behenyl alcohol and / or its acid and ester derivatives, in particular behenic acid otherwise known as docosanoic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters, and / or any of their mixtures.

[0011] Linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules are commonly used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions for their emollient properties. However, it was not known that these molecules, and in particular the selected ones, when present at a minimum concentration of 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, could maintain the viability of live bacteria contained in this composition and thus resolve the problems of the prior art, unlike other liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, particularly branched ones, as described in the prior art. Indeed, examples show that branched-chain fats, in the absence of the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, do not allow for the satisfactory maintenance of bacterial viability.

[0012] The present invention thus makes it possible to develop cosmetic and dermatological compositions applicable topically that ensure, in a particularly advantageous way, the stability, in particular the long-term viability, of the probiotic without its proliferation for a satisfactory period compatible with the distribution and storage constraints in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, both for manufacturers and for users. Thus, in these compositions, the probiotic bacterial strain is stable, that is to say, the strain remains alive and does not proliferate excessively, and therefore remains stable until its use.

[0013] As demonstrated in the examples, such compositions according to the invention remain stable, and in particular maintain the viability and therefore preserve the probiotic bacterial strain they advantageously contain up to: - at least 3 months at room temperature, i.e. at a temperature between 18 and 25 °C, specifically around 21 °C, and - up to sixteen months at 4°C.

[0014] The linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules used are oily in nature or waxes and thus allow the formulation of probiotic bacterial strains in anhydrous formulations or those containing little water, thus avoiding the use of preservatives which destroy probiotic bacterial strains by reducing their viability.

[0015] The compositions according to the invention are also easy to apply and easily formulated, unlike the solutions described in the prior art.

[0016] The invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition including - at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria, - at least one lipodispersible and liposoluble linear-chain molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate, possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof, - and possibly one or more other lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules with a linear chain, in which the total content of lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecules is at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the other lipodispersible and liposoluble linear-chain molecule is chosen from: - Alkane molecules with the chemical formula CnH2n+2, where n represents a value ranging from 6 to 40, - Ester molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-COO-CyH2y-CH3, in which each of x and y independently designates a value ranging from 5 to 19, - Acidic molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-C(O)OH, where x represents a value from 5 to 21, such as cerotic acid, - Alcohol molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-OH, where x represents a value from 5 to 21, and any one of their mixtures.

[0018] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecule chosen from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof, is present at a content of at least 8%, preferably at least 10%, and even more preferably at least 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecule is dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0020] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is coco caprylate, possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate.

[0021] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the chosen linear chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is di-caprylyl carbonate.

[0022] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is undecane and / or tridecane.

[0023] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the chosen linear chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or isostearyl linoleate and / or oleic alcohol, preferably linoleic acid.

[0024] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters, preferably behenyl alcohol.

[0025] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the lipodispersible and liposoluble linear-chain molecule chosen from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof is present at a content of at least 40%, preferably at least 50%, and even more preferably at least 60%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] In particular, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises at least two, preferably three or four, lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecules selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate optionally combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters.

[0027] In particular, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention further comprises a branched-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecule chosen from octyl dodecanol, propylheptyl caprylate, a mixture of caprylic and capric triglycerides, hydrogenated castor oil, shea butter, coconut oil and / or coconut glycerides.

[0028] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the probiotic live bacterial strain is chosen from Lactobacillus crispatus, Corynebacterium accolens, Sphingomonas glacialis, Strep-tococcus salivarus, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the live bacterial strain is formulated from powder obtained by lyophilization on a maltodextrin support, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of powder, preferably from 30% to 70%, more preferably from 40% to 60%, by weight relative to the total weight of powder.

[0030] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the live bacterial strain is at a content of 103 to 1015 CFU (colony forming unit) per gram of composition.

[0031] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the live bacterial strain is at a content of 0.01 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In particular, in the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention, the water activity (Aw) in the composition is less than 0.6.

[0033] In particular, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention is in the form of a suspension or solution, oily, an oily cream or gel, a milk, a water-in-oil or multiple or silicone emulsion, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a solid soap, a solid shampoo, solid foaming products, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, a stick or a lozenge.

[0034] The present invention further relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, to prevent and / or reduce unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin, healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, in particular of sensitive or sensitized skin, hair and / or mucous membranes, fragile or weakened skin, hair and / or mucous membranes, and / or dry and / or atopic-prone skin, hair and / or mucous membranes.

[0035] The present invention further relates to the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as a moisturizing and / or soothing agent for healthy skin, healthy hair and / or mucous membranes.

[0036] In particular, the non-therapeutic uses according to the invention are carried out by ap topical application, preferably on an area of ​​healthy skin, mucous membrane and / or hair chosen from among the legs; feet; armpits; hands; thighs; hips; buttocks; waist; crotch; groin; stomach; décolleté; neck; arms; torso; back; face including in particular the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory canal and / or chin; scalp; hair; nails; and / or labial mucosa, advantageously the armpits, décolleté, hair, nails, labial mucosa and / or face, again advantageously the face.

[0037] The present invention further relates to the use of at least one lipo-dispersible and lipo-soluble linear-chain molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof, and possibly one or more other linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules, to maintain the viability of a live probiotic bacterial strain, wherein the total weight sum of linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules is at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0038] The Applicant has also discovered that compositions according to the invention containing at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria can thus be used as cosmetic compositions, in particular to improve the appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin, including healthy scalp and / or mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, including hair and nails, and / or for the cosmetic care of healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or healthy skin appendages, including the most delicate skin such as sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry skin, and / or healthy skin prone to atopic dermatitis. The selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules are emollients that advantageously also improve the hydration of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or soften them.

[0039] The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or mucous membranes and / or healthy hair and skin appendages of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for the cosmetic treatment of sensitive healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, sensitized healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, fragile and / or weakened healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, dry healthy skin and / or mucous membranes, and healthy skin and / or mucous membranes with atopic tendencies, and / or as a soothing agent or a moisturizing agent.

[0040] The Applicant has also discovered that the compositions according to the invention, particularly dermatological ones, are particularly suitable for the treatment and / or prevention of skin, mucous membrane, and / or hair infections caused by pathogenic microorganisms, including fungal infections, Staphylococcus aureus such as eczema, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, acne, and cutaneous or mucosal inflammation caused by pathogenic bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus, and / or erythema, particularly diaper rash, and / or for the prevention and / or pharmaceutical treatment, particularly dermatological, of pathologies related to reactive and / or atopic skin. These compositions according to the invention are therefore useful for the dermatological care of atopic and / or reactive skin and / or infant skin to prevent diaper rash.

[0041] The invention thus relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention, for its use as an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial composition and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of skin and / or mucous membrane infections, in particular those associated with a pathogenic microorganism such as a yeast or a bacterium, for example mycoses or S. aureus infections such as eczema, dandruff, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, acne, and cutaneous or mucosal inflammation caused by a pathogenic bacterium such as S. aureus, and / or erythema, in particular diaper rash, and / or in the prevention and / or pharmaceutical treatment, in particular dermatological treatment, of pathologies related to reactive and / or atopic skin.

[0042] In particular, the invention relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention, for its use as an anti-inflammatory agent, antibacterial agent and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of skin and / or mucous membrane and / or hair infections induced by a pathogenic microorganism, such as a yeast or a pathogenic bacterium such as S aureus such as mycoses, eczema, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, acne, and cutaneous or mucosal inflammation caused by a pathogenic microorganism, such as a yeast or a pathogenic bacterium such as S. aureus, a mycosis and / or erythema, in particular diaper rash, and / or in the prevention and / or pharmaceutical treatment, in particular dermatological, of pathologies related to reactive and / or atopic skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0043] The compositions according to the invention are advantageously intended for topical administration.

[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, "cosmetic use" and / or "cosmetic composition" means a non-pharmaceutical use and / or composition, that is to say, one which is not intended for therapeutic use and is applied to a part of the body said to be healthy, in particular to an area of ​​skin said to be healthy.

[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, "healthy skin and / or mucous membrane" means an area of ​​human skin and / or mucous membrane on which the agent or composition according to the invention is applied and which is said to be "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, that is to say, not showing any infection, scar, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, inflammation, ichthyosis, acne or dermatitis, or any wounds or injuries.

[0046] For the purposes of this invention, "skin" means the skin of all or part of the body, in particular human, preferably chosen from the legs; feet; armpits; hands; thighs; hips; buttocks; waist; crotch; groin; belly; décolletage; neck; arms; torso; back; face including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory canal and / or chin; and / or scalp, more preferably chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, belly, décolletage, neck, arms, torso, back, face, and / or scalp, advantageously the armpits, décolletage, face, further advantageously the face.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, "mucous membrane(s)" means the nasal, ocular, vaginal, urogenital and / or oral mucosa, in particular the labial and / or gingival mucosa, preferably the urogenital and / or oral mucosa, preferably labial.

[0048] According to the present invention, "phaneres" means hair fiber (hair), eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, in particular beard and / or moustache hair and / or nails, preferably nails and hair.

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, "lipid-soluble and lipo-dispersible molecules" means molecules that are soluble and dispersible in a liquid oily phase, typically sunflower oil, at room temperature (between 18°C ​​and 25°C) or after heating between 60°C and 85°C, and at atmospheric pressure.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, a "linear-chain molecule" means an alkane, ester, acid, carbonate, or alcohol molecule in which the carbon chain(s) do not include any branches. The molecule thus comprises one or two linear carbon chains, that is, a saturated or unsaturated carbon chain in which each carbon atom is covalently bonded to at most two other carbon atoms. It therefore contains no branched carbon groups on the carbon chain(s).

[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, a "branched-chain molecule" is understood to be a molecule whose chain comprises at least one branch. The molecule thus comprises at least one branched carbon chain, that is to say, a saturated or unsaturated carbon chain in which at least one of the carbon atoms is covalently bonded to at least three other carbon atoms. It may be saturated or unsaturated and contains at least one carbon group branched onto a carbon chain.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, "lipid-soluble and lipodispersible linear-chain molecules" means the following molecules alone or in mixtures, preferably at least two of the molecules chosen from the following list: - Alkane molecules with the chemical formula CnH2n+2 where n represents a value ranging from 6 to 40; - Ester molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-C(O)O-CyH2y-CH3 in which each of x and y independently designates a value ranging from 5 to 19; - Dicaprylyl carbonate; - Acidic molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-C(O)OH, where x represents a value from 5 to 21; and - Alcohol molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-OH in which x represents a value from 5 to 21.

[0053] In particular, the liposoluble and lipodispersible linear chain molecules may be selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, otherwise known as docosanoic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof.

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, "selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules" means the following molecules alone or in mixture, preferably at least two of the molecules chosen from the following list: dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, otherwise known as docosanoic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof.

[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, "other linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules" means a linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule as defined above but different from the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules also defined above.

[0056] The term “derivatives” of an acid molecule according to the present invention means alcohol and ester derivatives.

[0057] The term "derivatives" of an alcohol molecule according to the present invention means acid derivatives and esters.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, "maintaining viability" means preventing an increase and / or decrease in the number of colony-forming units (CFUs) of a live bacterial strain in the composition over time. The viability of a live bacterial strain according to the invention is said to be maintained if the number of CFUs counted after a specified time varies by a maximum of 2 log, preferably 1 log, more or less than the number of CFUs counted initially when the composition according to the invention was formulated.

[0059] The maintenance of viability is preferably evaluated after a determined time ranging from one month to twenty-four months, preferably at one month, preferably 3 months, even more preferably 6 months, even more preferably 12 months and / or 16 months from the formulation of the composition according to the invention.

[0060] The maintenance of viability is preferably evaluated after storage at a temperature between 0°C and 30°C, preferably between 2°C and 25°C, preferably between 2°C and 6°C and / or between 10°C and 30°C and preferably at room temperature (i.e. between 18°C ​​and 25°C, in particular about 21°C).

[0061] The number of CFU can be evaluated according to the classic methods in this field, in particular by counting the bacterial strain, in particular by taking a determined quantity of the composition, placed in an appropriate culture medium, such as the method described in example 2.

[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, "maintaining the stability" of a composition comprising a strain of live bacteria means preventing the increase or decrease of parameters classically defined in the field, such as organoleptic parameters like color and / or odor and / or formulation galenic parameters such as pH, maintenance of phases, absence of precipitation of compounds and / or development of another strain of microorganisms.

[0063] The live bacterial strain used in the present invention is referred to as a probiotic. For the purposes of this invention, "probiotic" or "probiotic bacterial strain" means one or more strains of live, and therefore viable, bacteria, that is, bacteria capable of forming colonies in culture. The probiotic bacterial strains according to the invention are those of cosmetic and / or dermatological interest that can be administered topically without risk to humans.

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, "live probiotic bacterial strain" means a whole strain of bacteria that is said to be viable, that is to say, a strain of bacteria capable of forming colonies in culture.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, "physiologically acceptable excipient" means an excipient suitable for topical application, for use cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin, not inducing an allergic response, and not chemically unstable.

[0066] The term “topical administration” means the direct local application and / or spraying of the composition onto the surface of the skin, in particular the scalp and / or mucous membranes and / or hair.Thus, the composition can be applied topically to all or part of the body and / or face, advantageously chosen from the legs; feet; armpits; hands; thighs; hips; buttocks; waist; groin; abdomen; décolleté; neck; arms; torso; back; face including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), labial mucosa, external auditory canal and / or chin; hair; and / or scalp, more preferably chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, abdomen, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, face, hair, nails and / or labial mucosa and / or scalp, advantageously the décolleté, face, hair, nails and / or labial mucosa, again advantageously the face;.the armpits, the décolletage, the hair, the nails, the mucous membrane of the lip, the scalp and / or the face, very advantageously the face.

[0067] Due to the complementary emollient properties of the liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules selected according to the present invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the care and / or cosmetic treatment of unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of all types of skin, in particular normal and / or dry skin and / or mucous membranes, but also sensitive and / or sensitized and / or fragile and / or weakened and / or atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes and / or dry skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0068] Generally speaking, "sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes" can be defined as healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that, by their nature, have a very low tolerance for aggressive agents, particularly environmental agents such as pollutants, climatic factors (wind, cold, heat), UV exposure, emotional factors such as stress, and / or chemical agents (heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH adjusters, AHAs, or dermatological agents such as retinoic acid (vitamin A acid)), and / or aggressive conditions such as perspiration and mechanical aggressions such as hair removal, shaving, friction, and even water, especially hard water. Sensitive skin is not pathological, unlike allergic skin.However, they can react to aggressive agents and / or conditions with unsightly and / or uncomfortable cutaneous and / or mucosal manifestations such as skin and / or mucosal dryness, loss of homogeneity of skin tone and / or mucous membranes, notably through the appearance of . Redness, sensations of tightness, tingling, prickling, tension, and / or itching, a rough texture of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or a loss of softness to the touch. Thus, the "sensitive skin" characteristic can be assessed by the individual themselves through subjective skin sensations or by a dermatologist through objective skin reactions.

[0069] Unsightly and / or uncomfortable symptoms may be generalized to the entire body, but most of the time they can have well-defined locations such as, for example, the scalp, face, skin folds, buttocks in infants, etc. They may therefore involve sensitive areas of skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0070] Similarly, "sensitized skin and / or mucous membranes" are healthy skin and / or mucous membranes made momentarily sensitive and therefore not pathological as such.

[0071] "Fragile or weakened skin and / or mucous membranes (i.e., temporarily made fragile)" refers to healthy skin and / or mucous membranes whose barrier function is weakened. This condition may be related to the individual's health and / or age, with the elderly and infants, for example, having fragile skin. This condition may also result from chemical or physical aggression (abrasion, friction, cuts).

[0072] Similarly, the dermatological compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the care and / or dermatological treatment of pathological skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular atopic and / or reactive skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0073] “Atopic-prone skin and / or mucous membranes” are healthy skin and / or mucous membranes that are extremely fragile and / or weakened, with increased permeability due to a weakened barrier function, and which are genetically predisposed to develop, under the influence of multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors, into a pathological state, namely atopic dermatitis. Thus, the “atopic-prone skin” characteristic can be assessed by the individual themselves through subjective skin sensations or by the dermatologist through objective skin reactions.

[0074] The uncomfortable and / or unsightly manifestations of sensitized, fragile and / or weakened skin and / or mucous membranes are the same as for sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes, without these manifestations and / or skin conditions being related to the prevention and / or treatment of a pathology.

[0075] “Reactive skin and / or mucous membrane”, otherwise called intolerant, irritable or allergic, is skin and / or mucous membrane whose tolerance threshold has decreased and which reacts excessively.

[0076] “Atopic skin and / or mucous membrane” is skin and / or mucous membrane affected by the pathology atopic dermatitis.

[0077] The characteristics “reactive skin and / or mucous membrane” and “atopic skin and / or mucous membrane” can be assessed by the dermatologist with objective skin reactions.

[0078] In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprises: - at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria, - at least one selected linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule, - and possibly one or more other linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules, in which the total content of lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecules is at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] The liposoluble and lipodispersible linear-chain molecules selected according to the present invention are chosen from: - dicaprylyl carbonate, - coconut caprylate, possibly combined with coconut caprate, preferably a mixture of coconut caprylate and coconut caprate, - undecane and / or tridecane, - Linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol, - Behenyl alcohol and / or its acid and ester derivatives, in particular behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, or the docosanoate or behenate esters, and / or any mixture thereof.

[0080] Indeed, as demonstrated in Example 2, the Applicant has found that these selected linear chain molecules make it possible to maintain the viability of the probiotic bacterial strain.

[0081] In particular, the liposoluble and lipodispersible linear-chain molecules selected according to the invention are: • Linear chain acids: - Dicaprylyl carbonate: also known as dioctyl carbonate, with the formula C17H34O3 and CAS number 1680-31-5; this molecule is a diester of carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol. It is commonly marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® CC or is contained in a mixture such as in the product Cosmedia® Gel CC marketed by BASF. - Coco caprylate: INCI name Coco-Caprylate and otherwise known as coco alkyl ester of octanoic acid (CAS 107525-85-9); this linear fatty chain ester is classically marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® C5. - Coconut caprylate can be combined with coconut caprate, with the INCI name Coco-Caprylate / Caprate; this combination has the INCI name coco caprylate / caprate, and CAS number 95912-86, is classically marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® C 5C.

[0082] These linear chain acids are known and used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions as emollients. • Linear-chain alkanes: - Undecane: this is an alkane with the formula Cl₂H₂₄ and CAS number 1120-21-4 - Tridecane: this alkane with the formula C13H28 and CAS number 629-50-5 is commonly marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® iSan. - A mixture of undecane and tridecane is commonly marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® Ultimate. • a linear-chain fatty acid or its derivatives: - Linoleic acid: This is a polyunsaturated fatty acid from the omega-6 group. It may be found in a mixture rich in linoleic acid, such as Argania spinosa seed oil marketed under the name Lipofructyl™ argan by the Applicant. Preferably, linoleic acid is added either as part of a mixture rich in linoleic acid, i.e., containing at least 70%, or in its pure form. - Oleic acid: This is a monounsaturated fatty acid from the omega-9 group. It can notably be contained in a mixture rich in linoleic acid, i.e. containing at least 50%, preferably at least 70%, such as in the form of rapeseed oil rich in omega-9 such as that marketed under the name Cegesoft PS6 marketed by BASF-- Linear chain esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid are linear chain molecules comprising a chain group of 20 carbons maximum esterified on the acid function such as for example isostearyl linoleate or decyl oleate. - Oleic alcohol • a linear-chain fatty alcohol: - Behenyl alcohol: it is also known as docosanol and has the formula C 22H46O - it is classically marketed by BASF under the name Lanette® 22. Its acid derivatives and esters are in particular chosen from behenic acid also known as docosanoic acid, its esters docosanoate or behenate and / or their mixtures.

[0083] Advantageously, the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecule(s) are contained in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a minimum content of 8%, or preferably at least 10%, pre preferentially at least 15%, preferentially 40%, preferably at least 50% by weight, advantageously at least 60% by weight, preferably 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably three or four of the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, provided that the total content of linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules is at least 40%, preferably at least 50%, and even more preferably at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0085] According to one embodiment, the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules are used either as purified molecules or as part of mixtures containing them, such as extracts. In particular, they are used as purified molecules.

[0086] The linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules selected according to the invention can be associated with other linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules which are not selected provided that the total content of linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules is at least 40%, preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0087] These other lipophilic and lipophilic linear-chain molecules that may be included in the composition in association with the selected ones are preferably chosen from: - Alkane molecules of chemical formula CnH2n+2 in which n designates a value ranging from 6 to 40, preferably one of the paraffins for which n is between 8 and 40, advantageously between 20 and 40 or between 8 and 19, such as dodecane, tetradecane and / or pentadecane; - Ester molecules with the chemical formula CH3- CxH2x -COO- CyH2y- CH3 in which each of the x and y independently designates a value from 3 to 19 such as myristyle myristate C28H56O2, cetearyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, myricyl palmitate; - Acidic molecules with the chemical formula CH3- CxH2x -C(O)OH in which x denotes a value from 5 to 21, such as cerotic acid; - Alcohol molecules with the chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-OH in which x represents a value from 5 to 21; and any one of their mixtures.

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition intended for topical application, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria and at least 40%, by weight relative to the total composition weight, of one or more selected linear-chain lipo-soluble and lipo-dispersible molecules, preferably at least two selected linear-chain lipo-soluble and lipo-dispersible molecules.

[0089] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain paraffin or glycerin.

[0090] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably three or four of the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, the sum of which is at least 40% by weight, preferably 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules included in the cosmetic or dermatological composition are chosen solely from among the selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules. In other words, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is devoid of any linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules other than those selected.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consists of one or more selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules and a live probiotic bacterial strain.

[0093] The compositions according to the invention contain at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria. According to the invention, a "strain of live probiotic bacteria" means a strain of bacteria of cosmetic and / or dermatological interest, i.e., non-pathogenic, whose topical application can improve the appearance and / or comfort of healthy skin or treat pathologies. These bacteria may be wild-type or genetically modified.

[0094] Preferably, these are the following bacteria: - From the group of lactic acid bacteria, in particular Lactobacillus rhamnosus, brevis, crispatus, delbrueckii, fermentum, helveticus, plantarum, iners, gasseri, jensenii, reuteri, brevis and / or, acidophilus, preferably Lactobacillus crispatus; - From the Cocci group, in particular Alloicoccus otitis, Lactococcus lactis, Strep-tococcus thermophilus, Streptococcus salivarius, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and / or Staphylococcus hominis; - From the Bifidobacteria group, notably Bifidobacterium longum, and / or Bifido-bacterium infantis; - From the Corynebacterium group, notably Corynebacterium accolens; - From the Sphingomonas Group, notably Sphingomonas glacialis; - From the Bacillus group, notably Bacillus cereus (subtilis), and / or Bacillus liche- niformis; - From the Cutibacterium group, notably Cutibacterium acnes.

[0095] Preferably, the probiotic live bacterial strain is chosen from Lactobacillus crispatus, Corynebacterium accolens, Sphingomonas glacialis, salivary strep-tococcus and their mixtures.

[0096] Particularly advantageously, the live probiotic bacterial strain is one of the following strains deposited under the Budapest Treaty with the Pasteur Institute (25 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75724 Paris cedex 15): - the Lactobacillus crispatus strain filed under number CNCM 1-5579 - the strain of Sphingomonas glacialis filed under number CNCM 1-5829.

[0097] The live probiotic bacterial strain can be formulated in powder form, i.e. in dry form, or in the form of suspensions.

[0098] Generally, the live probiotic bacterial strain can be isolated before being formulated, i.e., not mixed with one or more components of its original medium. Alternatively, the live probiotic bacterial strain can be combined with components of its original medium, in particular its culture medium.

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the live probiotic bacterial strain may be combined with a bacterial strain in inactivated form, in particular in its dead form and / or in the form of its lysate, and / or in the form of one or more of its fractions and / or in the form of one or more of its metabolites, in particular its secretome. This may thus be the same bacterial strain in inactivated form or a different bacterial strain in inactivated form. Preferably, it will be the same bacterial strain as the live probiotic bacterial strain.

[0100] According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may contain several strains of live probiotic bacteria or a strain of live probiotic bacteria combined with another strain of bacteria in inactivated form, in particular in dead form and / or in the form of its lysate, and / or in the form of one or more of its fractions and / or in the form of one or more of its metabolites, in particular its secretome.

[0101] Particularly advantageously, the live probiotic bacterial strain is contained in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a concentration of 0.001 to 3% (w / w) by weight, or even more preferably at a concentration of 0.01 to 0.3% (w / w) of about 0.025% (w / w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Advantageously, the live probiotic bacterial strain is contained in the cosmetic or dermatological composition at a concentration per gram of composition ranging from 10³ colony-forming units (CFU) to 10¹⁵ CFU / g, preferably ranging from 10⁴ to 10¹⁰ CFU / g, or even more preferably from 10⁵ to 10⁹ CFU / g. g, preferably ranging from 105 to 108 CFU / g, preferably around 105 CFU / g.

[0103] Advantageously, the live probiotic bacterial strain is contained in the cosmetic composition, at a concentration per gram of composition ranging from 103 to 108 CFU / g, more preferably from 104 to 108 CFU / g, more preferably from 105 to 108 CFU / g, more preferably from about 105 CFU / g.

[0104] Advantageously, the live probiotic bacterial strain is contained in the dermatological composition, at a concentration per gram of composition ranging from 109 colony-forming units (CFU) to 1015 CFU / g, preferably ranging from 109 to 1013 CFU / g.

[0105] The production of the live probiotic bacterial strain may be carried out according to any method classically known to those skilled in the art. Advantageously, it will be carried out according to the protocol as described, for example, in Example 1.

[0106] According to an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention has a water activity of less than 0.6, more preferably less than 0.5, more preferably less than 0.4.

[0107] Water activity (AW) indicates the availability of so-called "free" water in a matrix. It is therefore not the exact water content of a medium, but only the water that can participate in chemical, biochemical, or microbiological reactions. It is defined relative to a reference state, which is pure water, i.e., without any solutes. The AW value varies between 0 and 1. It is equal to 0 when the product is dry and all the water is bound to the matrix (without reactive properties). It is equal to 1 in the case of pure water.

[0108] Water activity is measured in a manner conventionally accepted by those skilled in the art with a water activity measuring device, such as the Aqualab devices marketed by Metergroup.

[0109] According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains a maximum of 5% by weight of added water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3%, and further preferably contains no added water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a non-aqueous composition.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the live probiotic bacterial strain is contained in an oily phase (or non-aqueous phase). Alternatively, the live probiotic bacterial strain according to the invention can be used dispersed and / or diluted in a solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 20% (v / v) by volume of water, more preferably less than 5% (v / v) by volume of water, and more preferably the solvent contains no water.

[0111] According to a preferred mode, this solvent contains less than 20% (w / w) by weight of water, Preferably, the solvent contains less than 5% (w / w) by weight of water, or preferably, it contains no water. Most preferably, this solvent is one of the lipophilic and lipophilic molecules selected according to the invention.

[0112] The live probiotic bacterial strain according to the invention is added to the composition according to the invention preferably in dry form, i.e. in powder form, advantageously in maltodextrin, preferably in a strain content of 10% to 80% (w / w) by weight of the strain, preferably of 30% to 70% (w / w), further advantageously of 40 to 60% (w / w) by weight of the strain relative to the total weight of powder.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention in its realization may comprise: - at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria chosen from Lactobacillus crispatus, Corynebacterium accolens and Sphingomonas glacialis, Streptococcus salivarus and their mixtures, preferably the strain of Lactobacillus crispatus deposited under number CNCM 1-5579 and Sphingomonas glacialis, preferably the strain deposited under number CNCM 1-5829; - said strain of live probiotic bacteria being preferably: ° at a content ranging from 104 to 1010 CFU / g, or preferably from 105 to 109 CFU / g, or preferably from 105 to 108 CFU / g of the composition, ° added to the composition in the form of freeze-dried powder on a maltodextrin support at a strain content ranging from 40 to 60% (w / w) by weight of the strain relative to the total weight of maltodextrin powder; - at least one liposoluble and lipodispersible linear-chain molecule chosen from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, or the docosanoate or behenate esters; and any mixture thereof; - at least one other lipid-soluble and lipid-dispersible molecule with a linear chain; and - a total content of liposoluble and lipodispersible linear chain molecules of at least 40%, preferably 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention in its preferred embodiment comprises: - at least one strain of live probiotic bacteria chosen from Lactobacillus crispatus, Corynebacterium accolens and Sphingomonas glacialis, Streptococcus salivary agents and their mixtures, preferably the strain of Lactobacillus crispatus filed under number CNCM 1-5579 and Sphingomonas glacialis, preferably the strain filed under number CNCM 1-5829; - said strain of live probiotic bacteria being preferably: ° at a content ranging from 104 to 1010 CFU / g or preferably from 105 to 109 CFU / g or preferably from 105 to 108 CFU / g of the composition, ° added to the composition in the form of freeze-dried powder on a maltodextrin support at a strain content ranging from 40 to 60% (w / w) by weight of the strain relative to the total weight of maltodextrin powder; - at least one, preferably at least two, lipid-soluble and lipid-dispersible linear-chain molecules selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate, possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, or the docosanoate or behenate esters; and any mixture thereof; - a total content of selected linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules of at least 40%, preferably 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Cosmetic and dermatological compositions are made according to classical formulation methods.

[0116] Preferably, the live probiotic bacterial strain is dispersed preferentially directly in lipid-soluble and lipid-dispersible molecules with linear and / or branched chains, preferably those with linear chains, and even more preferably those with selected linear chains, i.e., chosen from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, also known as docosanoic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and any mixture thereof.

[0117] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is produced at a maximum temperature of 70°C in the context of a so-called hot manufacturing process or at ambient temperature, i.e. between 18°C ​​and 25°C, in particular about 21°C, in the context of a so-called cold manufacturing process.

[0118] Advantageously, the manufacturing temperature does not exceed 70°C during a maximum duration of 3 hours. This will be adjusted according to the resistance of the live bacterial strain concerned.

[0119] In a preferred mode, the composition according to the invention will be carried out at room temperature, i.e. between 18°C ​​and 25°C, in particular 21°C, in the context of a so-called cold manufacturing process.

[0120] The cosmetic and dermatological composition according to the invention is a topical administration composition.

[0121] In an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a physiologically acceptable excipient, in particular cosmetically, pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable.

[0122] In the context of the invention, the live probiotic bacterial strain is used as an active agent in the composition, in particular as a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient to prevent and / or reduce unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes described as normal, sensitive and / or sensitized and / or fragile and / or weakened and / or dry and / or atopic.

[0123] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention can also be used in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological agent or a premix intended to be incorporated into another cosmetic or dermatological composition, and further comprising a suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical excipient, in particular just before its immediate application.

[0124] In this case, according to a method particularly advantageous for this method of administration, the live probiotic bacterial strain is then contained in the composition according to the invention at a more concentrated dose, in particular at a concentration ranging from 0.001 to 3% by weight, more preferably at a concentration of 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.25%, more preferably at a concentration of about 0.20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a ready-to-use cosmetic or dermatological composition, i.e., usable directly by topical application.

[0126] The composition according to the invention does not include any biocidal agent and / or preservative at a dose that could alter the viability of the live probiotic strain.

[0127] The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent, excipient, vehicle, and other active ingredients, provided that it does not alter the stability of the composition, in particular the viability of the live probiotic bacterial strain.

[0128] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further contain non-linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, in particular branched chain fats, provided that the linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecule(s), in particular those selected, are present in the cosmetic composition at a minimum content of 40%, preferably at least 50% by weight, more advantageously at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Branched-chain fatty acids generally refer to liquid, paste, or solid oily compounds, particularly waxes, with a branched chain, including vegetable oil, as well as saturated fatty acids with one or more hydrocarbon branches on the carbon chain (classically referred to as BCFAs). These branched-chain fatty acids are commonly used in many cosmetic and dermatological compositions as texturizing agents, emollients, structuring agents, and rheology modifiers.

[0130] The branched-chain fatty substance(s) are advantageously those selected from fatty-type oils with a branched chain such as: - octyldodecanol, also known as Eutanol® G; - propylheptyl caprylate, notably marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® Sensoft; - a mixture of caprylic and capric triglyceride known under the number CAS73398-61-5 such as that marketed by BASF under the name Myritol® 318; - hydrogenated castor oil; - shea butter or other fatty acids, such as the mixture marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® SB 45 comprising oleic, stearic, linolenic, palmitic, linoleic and arachidonic acids; - coconut oil and / or coconut glycerides, in particular those marketed by BASF under the name Myritol®331; - squalane or squalane derivatives such as hemisqualane.

[0131] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a maximum of 40%, preferably 30% by weight of branched-chain fatty acids, in particular those listed above, and even more preferably less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is devoid of non-linear chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecules, and therefore of branched chain fatty substances.

[0133] Other fat-soluble ingredients may be contained in the compositions according to the invention, such as, for example: - vitamins or antioxidants, including vitamin E also known as tocopherol to prevent the oxidation of fats; - touch agents such as microcrystalline celluloses; - texturizing agents such as thickeners and / or fat-phase gelling agents such as hectorite stearalkonium and propylene carbonate, notably marketed as the Cosmedia ® Gel CC mixture by BASF in association with dicaprylyl carbonate; - other emollients.

[0134] The excipient(s) may thus be chosen from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, thickening agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, mattifying agents, gloss enhancers, pigments, colorants, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2016 Edition) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.

[0135] Advantageously, the excipient(s) are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycines, and preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7,carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxysterate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral waxes and oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG-8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, Castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises biodegradable polymers selected from: - alginic acid, its salts and topically acceptable esterified derivatives, advantageously chosen from ammonium alginate, sodium alginate, alginate of calcium, magnesium alginate, sodium sulfate alginate and potassium alginate, glyceryl alginate or propylene glycol alginate, or mixtures thereof, advantageously sodium alginate and / or propylene glycol alginate; - hyaluronic acid, its salts and its topically acceptable esterified derivatives, advantageously chosen from hydrolyzed calcium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium sulfated hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate; - scleroglucan; and / or any mixture thereof.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it has been discovered that such polymers further increase the viability of the live probiotic bacterial strain in the composition according to the invention, particularly when they are present at a content of between 0.1% and 10%, or even more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0138] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention can be chosen from a suspension or solution, oily, an oily cream or gel, a milk, a water-in-oil or multiple or silicone emulsion, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a solid soap, a solid shampoo, solid foaming products, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, a stick or a lozenge.

[0139] Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is not in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0140] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may further comprise a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient selected from surfactants, buffering agents, swelling agents, chelating agents, denaturing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, solvents, fillers, odor absorbers, mattifying agents, conditioning agents, texturizing agents, gloss-enhancing agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes, and chemical or mineral sunscreens, trace elements, and essential oils. These combinations are also covered by the present invention.

[0141] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may contain other liposoluble and lipodispersible active ingredients.

[0142] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may also include other active ingredients for the treatment of normal skin and / or mucous membranes, sensitive, sensitized, reactive, fragile and / or weakened skin and / or mucous membranes and / or having an effect on increasing and / or protecting and / or maintaining the beneficial commensal flora on the skin and / or mucous membranes, inducing a complementary or synergistic effect with the probiotic bacterial strain according to the invention, chosen for example from - a combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate, notably marketed in a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea and glycerin under the name PatcH2O™ by the applicant; - other cosmetic ingredients intended for the care of sensitive skin such as a plant extract of Cestrum latifolium as described in application WO2009 / 112590 for example marketed under the name Symbiocell ™ by the applicant, a butter extracted from the fruit of the Irvingia gabonensis tree marketed under the name Irwinol™ by the applicant, an extract of Eperua falcata root marketed under the name Eperuline™, an N-acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Prolyl-L-Phenylalalanyl-L-Phenylala-ninamide peptide (INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) sold under the name Skinasensyl™ by the applicant.

[0143] The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more active ingredients on the cutaneous and / or mucosal microbial flora and / or active ingredients on the skin barrier function, including moisturizing and / or soothing active ingredients, among which are an oligosaccharide obtained by enzymatic synthesis marketed by Solabia under the name BioEcolia™ or an alpha-glucooligosaccharide complex marketed by the same company under the name Ecoskin™, an extract of Alisma plantago-aquatica, an extract of Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl™ Argan), a mixture of ceramides (Sphingoceryl™ VEG), purifying extracts of Boldo (Betapur™), products based on inulin or fructooligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria or an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus to combat oily skin (MAT-XS™ Bright), a natural honey extract marketed by the plaintiff under the name Melhydran™ for its moisturizing properties,a flax extract marketed under the name Oligolin™ by the plaintiff, a biotechnologically modified yeast extract marketed by the plaintiff under the name Re-lipidium™, Hydagen GG, a Pueraria lobata root extract marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the plaintiff, a beta-glucan derivative from baker's yeast marketed by Mibelle under the name CM-Glucan Forte™ and / or a Mirabilis jalapa extract marketed under the name Pacifeel™ by Sederma, inulin, N-methylglycine as a cutaneous prebiotic, notably marketed under the name Scalposine™ by the plaintiff, a barrier function repair agent extracted from phytosterols of Brassica campestris seed oil marketed by the plaintiff under the name Phytosoothe™, a moisturizing and soothing agent containing beta-glucans and marketed under the name Hydrasensyl glucan™ by De, manderesse, a moisturizing agent comprising hyaluronic acid and konjac polysaccharides marketed under the name Ultra Filling Spheres ™, an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness agent containing an extract of Inonotus obliquas marketed by the Applicant under the name Inolixir™ soothing, an agent protecting against the effects of pollution, including an extract of Moringa oleifera seeds marketed by the Applicant under the name Purisoft ™, an extract of Cassia angustifoloia marketed by the Applicant under the name Hyalu-rosmooth®, an extract of soy fermented by a lactobacillus marketed by the Applicant under the name Phytofim™ biotic.

[0144] According to a particularly advantageous method, the active ingredient contained in the composition is of an oily and / or lipodispersible nature, such as an oily extract of Cyperus esculentus, marketed by the Applicant under the name Lypofructyl® cyperus, an extract of Argania spinosa fruit marketed by the Applicant under the name Argassential™, an extract of Schisandra chinensis fruit, dehydrated oily spheres of hyaluronic acid marketed under the name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres.

[0145] Particularly advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention also comprises an extract of the fermentation medium of the probiotic bacterium strain.

[0146] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one liposoluble and lipodispersible linear-chain molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters (e.g., isostearyl linoleate) and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, otherwise known as docosanoic acid, or the docosanoate or behenate esters; or any of their mixtures, to maintain the viability of a live probiotic bacterial strain in a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention, wherein said molecule or its mixture is present at a content of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] This use is particularly interesting and advantageous in the presence of cosmetic or dermatological excipient, in particular when the composition contains one or more branched-chain fatty substances, in particular those previously defined, in particular when these have a content greater than 10%, preferably 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 20% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic cosmetic use by topical application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for the cosmetic treatment of normal healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, sensitive healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, sensitized healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, fragile healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, weakened healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, dry healthy skin and / or hair and / or mucous membranes, and / or healthy skin and / or mucous membranes with atopic tendencies.

[0149] The invention further relates to a cosmetic care method characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for the cosmetic treatment of normal healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, sensitive healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, sensitized healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, fragile and / or weakened healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, dry healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, and healthy skin and / or mucous membranes with atopic tendencies.

[0150] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic care process comprises the topical application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to all or part of the body and / or face, advantageously selected from the legs; feet; armpits; hands; thighs; hips; buttocks; waist; crotch; groin; stomach; décolleté; neck; arms; torso; back; face including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), labial mucosa, external auditory canal and / or chin; hair;and / or the scalp, more preferably chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolletage, neck, arms, torso, back, face, hair, nails and / or the labial mucosa and / or the scalp, advantageously the décolletage, face, hair, nails and / or the labial mucosa, further advantageously the face; the armpits, décolletage, hair, nails, labial mucosa, scalp and / or face, most advantageously the face.

[0151] In one embodiment, the quantity of live probiotic bacterial strain contained in the cosmetic composition does not produce a therapeutic effect.

[0152] Advantageously, the invention also relates to a cosmetic (non-therapeutic) treatment method for preventing and / or reducing unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or mucous membranes that are sensitive and / or sensitized and / or fragile and / or weakened and / or dry and / or prone to atopic dermatitis in an individual who needs / wants it, comprising the steps: a) The identification on the individual of an area of ​​healthy skin and / or mucous membrane and / or hair where one wishes to prevent and / or reduce unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations and / or where one wishes to prevent and / or reduce sensitivity and / or fragility and / or dryness and / or atopic tendency, and b) The topical application to this area of ​​healthy skin and / or healthy hair and / or healthy mucous membrane of a cosmetic composition according to the invention in an effective quantity to prevent and / or reduce unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations on this area of ​​skin, hair and / or mucous membrane and / or in an effective quantity to prevent and / or reduce its sensitivity and / or fragility and / or dryness and / or atopic tendency.

[0153] The invention further relates to a dermatological composition as defined above, optionally with a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0154] The cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient(s) may be selected from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, thickening agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, mattifying agents, gloss-enhancing agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2016 Edition) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention. A person skilled in the art would be able to adapt the formulation of the composition according to the invention using their general knowledge.

[0155] The invention further relates to a dermatological composition according to the invention, as defined above, for its use as an anti-inflammatory agent, antibacterial agent and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of skin and / or mucous membrane and / or hair infections induced by a pathogenic microorganism, such as a yeast or a pathogenic bacterium such as S aureus such as mycoses, eczema, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, acne, and cutaneous or mucosal inflammation caused by a pathogenic microorganism, such as a yeast or a pathogenic bacterium such as S. aureus, a mycosis and / or erythema, in particular diaper rash, and / or in the prevention and / or pharmaceutical treatment, in particular dermatological, of pathologies related to reactive and / or atopic skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0156] In an advantageous embodiment, the live probiotic bacterial strain is contained in the dermatological composition, at a concentration per gram of composition ranging from 109 colony-forming units (CFU) to 1015 CFU / g, preferably ranging from 109 to 1013 CFU / g.

[0157] The invention will now be illustrated with the examples below. Other The aims, features, and advantages of the invention will become clear to those skilled in the art upon reading the explanatory description, which refers to examples. These examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

[0158] The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any feature which appears new in relation to any prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention in its function and in its generality.

[0159] Thus, each example has a general scope.

[0160] Furthermore, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius and pressure is atmospheric pressure. EXAMPLES

[0161] Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention

[0162] The isolated Lactobacillus crispatus (CNCM 1-5579) bacteria were inoculated into MRS (Man, Rogosa, Sharpe) agar and incubated anaerobically at 37°C. The pH was maintained at 6, and the medium was incubated for 24 hours. At the end of the incubation period, the entire medium, including the bacteria, was centrifuged, and the cell concentrate was recovered and lyophilized in the presence of maltodextrin, resulting in a final maltodextrin concentration of 50% (w / w) by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0163] The resulting powder, composed of a mixture of 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin, is dispersed at 0.425% (w / w) in coconut caprylate (Cetiol® C5 marketed by BASF) in sufficient quantity to reach 100% (w / w) of the composition.

[0164] Example 2 Monitoring the viability of live probiotic bacteria in a composition according to the invention

[0165] Protocol:

[0166] The composition according to the invention was obtained according to example 1.

[0167] The tested composition was stored at 4°C (T4°C) and at room temperature (Tambiante, i.e., between 18°C ​​and 25°C, specifically around 21°C). At the beginning of the study (T0) and at regular time intervals (T1 months, T2 months, T3 months, T6 months, T12 months, and T10 months), the composition was sampled and spread onto MRS (Man Sharp Rugosa) agar. The agar plates were incubated in anaerobic jars at 37°C for 3 days, and then the colonies were counted. The results are expressed in CFU (colony-forming units) per gram of composition in Table 1.

[0168] Results:

[0169] [ Table 1] Composition according to T0 TTT T6 months T12 months T16 months The invention (CFU / g) 1 month 2 months 3 months at 4°C 2.25 x 10⁷ 2.1 x 10⁷ 1.9 x 10⁷ 2.3 x 10⁷ 5.6 x 10⁷ 1.1 x 10⁷ 2.2 x 10⁷ At room temperature 2.25 x 10⁷ 1.5 x 10⁷ 2.8 x 10⁷ 1.8 x 10⁷ 1.7 x 10⁷ 2.3 x 10⁶ 1.1 x 10⁵

[0170] The composition tested according to the invention shows good maintenance of the viability of the live bacterial strain thanks to the presence of liposoluble and lipo-dispersed linear chain molecules in sufficient quantity.

[0171] Example 3: Comparative studies with the addition of two linear-chain molecules according to the invention

[0172]

[0173]

[0174]

[0175]

[0176]

[0177]

[0178]

[0179]

[0180] Protocol: Composition 1 is made from the same initial mixture in powder form comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin, which is dispersed at 1% (w / w) in a branched chain ester, here a capric / caprylic triglyceride in sufficient quantity to complete to 100% (w / w) the composition. A second composition is prepared from the same initial mixture in powder form, comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin: Phase A: %(w / w) relative to the final composition - Caprylic / capric triglyceride 39.08 Coco caprylate / caprate mixture 20 - Vegetable oil 20 Linoleic acid 20 - Tocopherol 0.5 Phase B: - L. crispatus / maltodextrin mixture in a 1:1 ratio of 0.42 The ingredients of phase A are mixed together at room temperature, and then phase B is added with gentle stirring. Composition 2 contains 40% of linear-chain, liposoluble, lipodispersed molecules according to the present invention. The viability of the probiotic bacterial strain is monitored in the same way as in example 2 (see [Table 2]). Results : [Table 2], In CFU / g T0 T Imonth T 2months T 3months T5months TlOmonths Composition 1 to 2. 104 0 0 0 0 0 4°C Composition 2 at 4°C 7.3 10⁶ 9.4 10⁶ 2.7 10⁶ 3.3 10⁶ 2.4 10⁶ 2.6 10⁶ Composition 2 at Room Temperature 4.1 10⁶ 1.6 10⁶ 1.7 10⁶ 8.5 10⁵ 1.0 10⁶

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184]

[0185]

[0186]

[0187]

[0188] After one day of storage at 4°C in composition 1 comprising a caprylic / capric triglyceride, no live bacteria are measured. The addition of 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition of lipid-soluble and lipid-dispersed linear-chain molecules according to the present invention restores the viability of the live probiotic bacterial strain. Example 4: Comparative studies with the addition of three linear-chain molecules according to the invention Composition 3 is made from the same initial mixture in powder form comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin, which is dispersed at 1% (w / w) in a fatty substance composed of a branched fatty chain of the alcohol type, here octyldodecanol, in sufficient quantity to complete the composition to 100% (w / w). A following composition 4 is prepared from the same initial mixture in powder form comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin: Phase A: %(w / w) relative to the final composition dicaprylyl carbonate 11.95 - vegetable oil 10 coconut caprylate / caprate mixture (Cetiol C5C) 25 - Caprylic / capric triglyceride 20 - Octyldodecanol 25 - Tocopherol 0.5 - Undecane and tridecane blend (Cetiol® ultimate) 5.00 - Argania spinosa nut oil (active ingredient) 2.50 Phase B: - L. crispatus / maltodextrin mixture in a 1:1 ratio of 0.05 The ingredients of phase A are mixed together at room temperature, and then phase B is added with gentle stirring. Composition 4 contains 42% (w / w) of linear-chain, lipophilic and lipophilicly dispersed molecules according to the present invention (dicaprylyl carbonate, coco caprylate / caprate, and a mixture of undecane and tridecane). The viability of the probiotic bacterial strain is monitored in the same way as in example 2 (see [Table 3]).

[0189] Results:

[0190] [Tables3] In CFU / g T0 T1 months T2 months T3 months T5 months T10 months Composition 3 at 4°C 3.4 x 10⁴ 1.8 x 10⁴ 0 0 0 0 Composition 4 at 4°C 7.9 x 10⁶ 4.1 x 10⁶ 4.5 x 10⁶ 4.8 x 10⁶ 5.4 x 10⁶ 2.0 x 10⁶ Composition 4 at room temperature 7 x 10⁶ 1.5 x 10⁶ 2.7 x 10⁶ 4.9 x 10⁶ 1.4 x 10⁶

[0191] After two months of storage at 4°C in composition 3 containing octyldodecanol, no live bacteria are measured. The addition of 42% by weight of the total weight of the composition of linear-chain, liposoluble, lipodispersed molecules according to the present invention maintains the viability of the live probiotic bacterial strain.

[0192] Example 5: Comparative studies with the addition of four linear-chain molecules according to the invention

[0193] A following composition 5 is prepared from the same initial mixture in powder form comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin:

[0194] Phase A: %(w / w) relative to the final composition dicaprylyl carbonate 13 coconut caprylate / caprate mixture (Cetiol C5C) 13 - shea butter 4 - coconut glycerides 12 - Octydodecanol 13.65 - Hydrogenated castor oil 4 Behenyl alcohol 8 - Tocopherol 0.5 - Microcrystalline cellulose 20

[0195] Phase B: - Undecane and tridecane blend (Cetiol® ultimate) 10.00 - L. crispatus / maltodextrin mixture in a 1:1 ratio of 0.05

[0196] The ingredients of phase A are mixed together by heating to 85°C with stirring. When phase A is homogeneous, phase B is added at 65°C with gentle stirring, and then the mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature. The com position 5 contains 44%(w / w) of liposoluble and lipodispersed linear chain molecules according to the present invention (dicaprylyl carbonate, coco caprylate / caprate and undecane and tridecane mixture and behenyl alcohol).

[0197] The viability of the probiotic bacterial strain is monitored in the same way as in Example 2 (see [Table 4]).

[0198] Results:

[0199] [Tables4] Composition 5 according to the invention (CFU / g) T0 T 1 month T 2 months T 3 months T 4 months T 5 months T 6 months T at 4°C 7.9 10⁵ 4.53 10⁵ 2.53 10⁵ 4.28 10⁵ 3.59 10⁵ 3.88 10⁵ 3.7 10⁵ Ambient temperature 6.31 10⁵ 2.81 10⁵ 1.18 10⁵ 1.65 10⁵ 1.21 10⁵ 6.6 10⁴

[0200] After two months of storage at 4°C in composition 3 containing octyldodecanol, no live bacteria are measured. The addition of 44% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of linear-chain, liposoluble, lipodispersed molecules according to the present invention maintains the viability of the live probiotic bacterial strain.

[0201] Example 6: comparative studies with a content of at least 40% of linear-chain molecules according to the invention a. Formulation in a branched-chain molecule, squalane.

[0202] A composition is made from the same initial mixture in powder form comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin, added in squalane at 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (squalane+L crispatus / maltodextrin mixture in a 1:1 ratio).

[0203] Squalane is a branched-chain molecule with the formula C30H62.

[0204] The viability of the probiotic bacterial strain is monitored in the same way as in Example 2 at 4°C (see [Table 5]).

[0205] Results

[0206] [Tables5] Composition according to the invention (UFC / g) T0 T Imonth T 2 months T 3 months Tà4°C 2.17 105 2. 105 8.5 103 0

[0207] After two months of storage, the viability of the live bacterial strain decreased by more than 2 log units, and at three months, no live bacteria were measured in the composition. These results suggest that the viability of the live bacterial strain at room temperature would be lost at least as rapidly, if not more rapidly. a. Formulation in the presence of 30% linear chain molecules according to the invention

[0208] A following composition 6 is made from the same initial mixture in powder form comprising 50% by weight of the L. crispatus strain and 50% by weight of maltodextrin.

[0209] Phase A: %(w / w) relative to the final composition - shea butter 46.45 rapeseed oil 20.00 coco caprylate / caprate blend (Cetiol C5) 20.00, Passiflora incarnata seed oil 5.00, myristyl myristate 3.00, beeswax 2.00 - Squalane 3.00 - Tocopherol 0.5

[0210] Phase B: - L. crispatus / maltodextrin mixture in a 1:1 ratio of 0.05

[0211] The ingredients of phase A are mixed together by heating to 75°C with stirring. When phase A is homogeneous, phase B is added at 65°C with gentle stirring, and then the mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature. Composition 6 contains at least 40% (w / w) of linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersed molecules according to the present invention (20% coco caprylate / caprate) and other linear-chain liposoluble and lipodispersed molecules (rapeseed oil containing 80% oleic acid, Passiflora incarnata seed oil containing at least 70% oleic acid, 7% linoleic acid, 1.4% behenic acid, 11% palmitic acid and 5% stearic acid, myristyle myristate, beeswax containing myricyl palmitate and cerotic acid otherwise known as hexacosanoic acid).

[0212] The viability of the probiotic bacterial strain is monitored in the same way as in Example 2 (see [Table 6]).

[0213] [Tableauxô] Composition 6 according to the invention (CFU / g) T0 T 1 month T 2 months T 3 months T at 4°C 8.7 x 10⁶ 1.4 x 10⁷ 1.1 x 10⁷ 1.7 x 10⁷ Ambient temperature 1.7 x 10⁶ 2.7 x 10⁵ 1.3 x 10⁵

[0214] After three months of storage at 4°C in composition 6) containing squalane, no live bacteria are measured. The addition of 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of linear-chain liposoluble and lipo-dispersed molecules according to the present invention and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of other linear-chain liposoluble and lipo-dispersed molecules maintains the viability of the live probiotic bacterial strain.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising - at least one live probiotic bacterial strain, - at least one linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate optionally combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof, - and optionally one or more other linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules, wherein the total content of the linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules is at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the other lipodispersible and liposoluble linear-chain molecule is selected from: - Alkane molecules of chemical formula CnH2n+2 in which n designates a value from 6 to 40, - Ester molecules of chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-COO-CyH2y-CH3 in which each of x and y independently designates a value from 5 to 19, - Acid molecules of chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-C(O)OH in which x designates a value from 5 to 21, such as cerotic acid, - Alcohol molecules of chemical formula CH3-CxH2x-OH in which x designates a value from 5 to 21, and any mixture thereof.

3. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipodispersible and liposoluble linear-chain molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate optionally combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenyl alcohol behenic, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof, is present at a content of at least 8%, preferably at least 10%, and even more preferably at least 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipodispersible and liposoluble linear chain molecule is dicaprylyl carbonate.

5. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is coco caprylate, optionally combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate.

6. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is undecane and / or tridecane.

7. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or isostearyl linoleate and / or oleic alcohol, preferably linoleic acid.

8. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the chosen linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule is behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters, preferably behenyl alcohol.

9. A cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipodispersible and liposoluble linear-chain molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate optionally combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof is present at a content of at least 40%, preferably at least 50%, and further preferably at least 60%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the composition of which comprises at least two, preferably three or four, lipo-dispersible and lipo-soluble linear-chain molecules selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters.

11. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition further comprises a branched-chain liposoluble and lipodispersible molecule selected from octyl dodecanol, propylheptyl caprylate, a mixture of caprylic and capric triglyceride, hydrogenated castor oil, shea butter, coconut oil and / or coconut glycerides.

12. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the probiotic live bacterial strain is selected from Lactobacillus crispatus, Corynebacterium accolens, Sphingomonas glacialis, Streptococcus salivarus, and mixtures thereof.

13. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the live bacterial strain is formulated from powder obtained by lyophilization on a maltodextrin support, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of powder, preferably from 30% to 70%, more preferably from 40% to 60%, by weight relative to the total weight of powder.

14. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the live bacterial strain is at a content of 103 to 1015 CFU (colony forming unit) per gram of composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the live bacterial strain is at a content of 0.01 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water activity (Aw) in the composition is less than 0.

6.

17. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a suspension or solution, oily, an oily cream or gel, a milk, a water-in-oil or multi- or silicone-based emulsion, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a solid soap, a solid shampoo, products foaming agents in solid form, a dermatological soap, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, a stick or a lozenge.

18. 18. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any of the preceding claims, to prevent and / or reduce unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin, healthy hair and / or mucous membranes, in particular of sensitive or sensitized skin, hair and / or mucous membranes, fragile or weakened skin, hair and / or mucous membranes, and / or dry and / or atopic-prone skin, hair and / or mucous membranes.

19. 9Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any of the preceding claims, as a moisturizing and / or soothing agent for healthy skin, healthy hair and / or mucous membranes.

20. Non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims by topical application, preferably on an area of ​​healthy skin, mucous membrane and / or hair selected from the legs; feet; armpits; hands; thighs; hips; buttocks; waist; crotch; groin; belly; décolletage; neck; arms; torso; back; face; scalp; hair; nails; and / or labial mucosa, advantageously the armpits, décolletage, hair, nails, labial mucosa and / or face, further advantageously the face.

21. A dermatological composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17, for use as an anti-inflammatory agent, antibacterial agent, and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of skin and / or mucous membrane and / or hair infections induced by a pathogenic microorganism, such as a yeast or pathogenic bacterium such as S. aureus, such as mycoses, eczema, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, acne, and cutaneous or mucosal inflammation caused by a pathogenic microorganism, such as a yeast or pathogenic bacterium such as S. aureus, mycosis, and / or erythema, in particular diaper rash, and / or in the prevention and / or pharmaceutical treatment, in particular dermatological treatment, of skin-related pathologies and /

22.

23. or reactive and / or atopic mucous membranes. 2Use of at least one linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecule selected from dicaprylyl carbonate; coco caprylate possibly combined with coco caprate, preferably a mixture of coco caprylate and coco caprate; undecane and / or tridecane; linoleic acid and / or oleic acid, and / or their linear-chain esters and / or oleic alcohol; behenyl alcohol and / or its acid derivatives and esters, in particular behenic acid, or docosanoate or behenate esters; and / or mixtures thereof, and possibly one or more other linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules, to maintain the viability of a live probiotic bacterial strain, wherein the total weight sum of linear-chain lipodispersible and liposoluble molecules is at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Use according to the preceding claim characterized in that the composition is as described in any one of claims 1 to 17.