Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated compound, phytic acid and / or acetic acid, and method using it

Abstract

Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated compound, phytic acid and / or acetic acid, and method implementing it The present invention relates to a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, more particularly makeup, comprising:a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;b) at least one compound Y chosen from those capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic; polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated;c) at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol;d) at least one acid chosen from phytic acid, acetic acid, and mixtures thereof.The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, in which the aforementioned composition is applied.

Description

Title of the invention: Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated compound, phytic acid and / or acetic acid, and method using it

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a makeup and / or skin and / or lip care composition, comprising at least one polyphenol-type compound, at least one compound Y capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the polyphenol and comprising polyoxyalkylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated units, at least one C2-C8 alcohol, and at least phytic and / or acetic acid.

[0002] For several years, consumers have become increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly seeking to use products containing an increasingly high content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with numerous packaging options.

[0003] The presence of polyphenols, and in particular those of natural origin, is particularly sought after for their beneficial properties for keratin materials. However, compositions comprising such compounds are not entirely satisfactory in terms of stability over time, in particular when they contain significant levels of short alcohols (in particular C2-C8). Indeed, this type of compound, in an alcoholic medium, more specifically ethanolic, is sensitive to hydrolysis and transesterification reactions. These reactions are at the origin of the appearance over time of gallic acid and its esters, such as, for example, ethyl gallate. However, gallic acid and its esters are known for their sensitizing power on the skin and lips and therefore their respective levels in the compositions must be and remain very limited over time.

[0004] There therefore remains a need to find new care and / or makeup compositions for keratin materials based on polyphenols which are stable over time, which produce, after application to the skin and / or lips, a homogeneous deposit and pleasant sensory properties such as the perception of a very thin film, good durability over time of the effect expected by the composition, without the drawbacks mentioned above.

[0005] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention which relates to a composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, preferably lips, more particularly makeup, comprising: (a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from those capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic; polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated; c) at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol; d) at least one acid chosen from phytic acid, acetic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0006] The invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the above-mentioned composition is applied.

[0007] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

[0008] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), the body, the hands.

[0009] The makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0010] For the purposes of the invention, the term "interaction by hydrogen bonding" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) is(are) made between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s) of polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with polyphenol X.

[0011] The present invention more particularly comprises the use of a coating agent obtained by interaction via hydrogen bonds, of at least one polyphenol X with at least one compound Y. More particularly, said coating agent is in the latent state in the composition according to the invention and only appears completely in situ, that is to say once the composition is applied to the skin and / or the lips. In other words, in the composition according to the invention, before its application, the conditions (ingredients, contents) are such that they do not promote the interaction of the polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.

[0012] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid form at room temperature.

[0013] By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.

[0014] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1,013.105 Pascals. POLYPHENOL X

[0015] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention comprise at least two different phenol groups in their structure.

[0016] By "polyphenol" is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene groups, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0017] By “different phenol groups” is meant chemically different phenol groups (not containing the same substituents).

[0018] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in the isolated state or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic cycle.

[0019] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0020] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavonoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.

[0022] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.

[0023] As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols

[0024] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechic tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castalin, casuarictin, castanopsinines, excoecarinins, grandinin, gradin, roburines, pterocarinin, racutissiline, telligranine, potential, sanguiline pedunculin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, sprendisinic acid, ascorgeranine, stachyurin, casuarine, casuarine, punicacortein, coriarin, cameliatannin, isodehydrogalloyl, deshydrogalloyl, punicaretinoyl, punicacortein rhoipteleanines..

[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract with the INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark with the INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

[0027] Tannic acid will be used more particularly as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.

[0028] Preferably, the polyphenol content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. COMPOSE Y

[0029] The compound(s) Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X are therefore hydrocarbon or silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated.

[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition, do not comprise an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

[0031] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from compounds whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

[0032] They are more particularly chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0033] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated silicone compounds

[0034] Non-ionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units and / or comprising from 2 to 20 glycerolated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; non-ionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0035] Preferably, the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax, Dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols

[0037] Among the compounds of this type, we can cite, alone or in mixtures:

[0038] * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing an alkyl radical at C8-C30, representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, namely selected from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-3 Laureth-12, and Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, and Deceth-3, and Deceth-5, and Beheneth-10, and Steareth-2, and Steareth-10, and Steareth-2, and Steareth-21, and Steareth-100, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7, Trideceth-12, and their mixtures.

[0039] * The polyoxyethylene and oxypropylene alcohols of type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o- (O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. Preferably, compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin

[0041] We can cite in particular, alone or in mixtures:

[0042] * Polyoxyethylenated glycerins, in particular oxyethylenated glycerin 26 EO (Glycereth-26).

[0043] * Polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol.

[0044] * Compounds of the type: R-(O-CH2-CH2)oO-CH2-CH(R')OH in particular the Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol.

[0045] * Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.

[0046] * Compounds of the type H(O-CR-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(R)HO)rH in particularly PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer. Polyethylene glycols

[0047] As regards these compounds, the latter may be chosen, alone or in mixtures, from polyethylene glycols of the H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH type, in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220, and mixtures thereof. The Poloxamers

[0048] Suitable for carrying out the invention are Poloxamers (INCI name) which correspond in particular to the following formula: HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)o (CH2-CH2-O)PH, and for example chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, as well as their mixtures.

[0049] Polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated esters

[0050] Suitable for example:

[0051] * Esters of polyethylene glycol and acid of the type: R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qOR or RO-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R In which R represent, identical or not, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, in C2-C20; n, p, q, average whole numbers, identical or not, varying from 2 to 150. They may in particular be chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof

[0052] * Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or acid polymer(s) carboxylic acid(s) optionally hydroxylated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or in mixtures.Examples of such esters include PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyoxyethylene Palm Glyceride (200 EO) and Coconut Blend polyoxyethylenes (7 EO), as well as their mixtures.

[0053] * Polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol and acid(s) units carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derived from vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compounds Y are chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derived from vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acids may also comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably are monocarboxylic acids. Polyglycerolated compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or triesters.As examples, we can cite the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostcaratc^Polyglyccryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Lauratc^Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, oil esters apricot kernel (Apricot Kernel Oil) polyglycerolated compounds comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0054] * Polyoxyethylene butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter.

[0055] * Polyoxyethylenated waxes, in particular chosen from ester waxes polyoxyethylenes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, and mixtures thereof

[0056] * Polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters, in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.

[0057] * PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate.

[0058] * Polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters, in particular chosen from PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.

[0059] * Polyoxyethylenated glycerolated esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate,

[0060] * Polyoxyethylene lanolins such as Laneth-15,

[0061] * Their mixtures.

[0062] Sorbitol or sorbitan esters _ polyoxyethylenated and Polysorbate

[0063] These compounds are more particularly chosen from esters of sorbitol or sorbitan (also called sorbitan) and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or not, in C6-C40, advantageously in C8-C30, and comprise 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units.

[0064] Among the Polysorbates (INCI names), we can particularly mention the compounds with the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, as well as their mixtures. As regards the esters, we can mention PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.

[0065] Ester or ether derivatives of polyoxyethylenated sugars

[0066] Sugar derivatives are more particularly glucose derivatives such as, for example, polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as, for example, the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0067] Polyoxyethylenated (poly)amines _,

[0068] Suitable for carrying out the invention are polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, more particularly of formula RN[(CH2-CH2-O)H]q[(CH2-CH2-O)rH] with R representing a hydrocarbon group, saturated or not, in C8-C30, and q or r, identical or not, represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50 and in particular PEG-2-Oleamine. Polyoxyethylenated polyamines such as for example PEG-15 Cocopolyamine may also be suitable.

[0069] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) Y are chosen from: * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average whole number ranging from 2 to 50; * Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average whole number ranging from 1 to 50; * Polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, or vegetable oil derivatives; * Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being (poly)oxyethylenated, comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more particularly from 1 to 100, or even from 1 to 80 oxyethylenated units; * Polysorbate; * Their mixtures.

[0070] According to a very advantageous variant of the invention, the compound(s) Y are chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, they are chosen from the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0072] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2. MONO ALCOHOL C2-C8

[0073] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, more particularly C2-C5. Examples that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, and even more preferably ethanol.

[0074] Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol is such that compounds X and do not react together in the composition, before its application. Said mono-alcohol can thus be considered as a hydrogen bond inhibitor. By "hydrogen bond inhibiting agent" is meant any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between polyphenol X and compound Y and / or of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds.

[0075] More particularly, the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PHYTIC ACID, ACETIC ACID

[0076] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one acid chosen from phytic acid, acetic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Preferably the composition comprises at least phytic acid. More particularly, it is recalled that this acid, of natural origin, corresponds to the hexaphosphoric ester of inositol (saturated cyclic C6 alcohol, each carbon atom comprising a hydroxyl group). This product is notably marketed under the name Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals Phytic Acid (IP6).

[0078] Preferably, said acid(s) is / are in an acid form in the composition.

[0079] More particularly, the content of phytic and / or acetic acid, expressed as active material, varies from 0.1 to 6%, more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER AND WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENTS

[0080] The composition may optionally comprise water. This may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0081] More particularly, the water content is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight of water, is less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of the composition is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, the water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.

[0084] If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0085] The composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes. COLORANT

[0086] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0087] More particularly, the content of coloring matter(s) in the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] The coloring material(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Pigments

[0089] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in a medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0090] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0091] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and powder copper. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0092] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0093] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0094] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0095] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0096] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0097] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0098] By "mother-of-pearl" is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0099] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0100] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0101] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0102] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of the effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0103] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0105] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least

[0106] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.

[0107] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0108] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0109] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0110] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0111] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0112] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0113] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0114] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0115] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0116] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0118] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0119] According to a second particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0120] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0121] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0122] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0123] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0124] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0125] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0126] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0127] The pigment(s) are preferably present at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring matter content is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

[0128] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.

[0129] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0130] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

[0131] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

[0132] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, we can cite anthocyanins.

[0133] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.

[0134] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, a-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0135] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in the composition at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OIL PHASE

[0136] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention, preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.

[0137] The term “oily phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, different from the aforementioned compounds Y, such as oils, waxes, pasty substances as well as possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0138] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 1,013.105Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0140] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0141] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0142] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0143] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104). Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0144] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore apolar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as of the ester type. In particular, they may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, and - branched C8-Ci6 esters, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - their mixtures.

[0145] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457. Volatile silicone oils

[0146] Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, among others, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0147] Examples of such oils include roctyltrimethicone, rhexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures. Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0148] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether.

[0149] As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl palmitate 2- hexyl, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - esters and polyesters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0150] The oil may also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated, apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0151] The non-volatile, linear or branched, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0152] Said apolar, linear or branched oils can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C15-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0153] The first non-volatile oil may also be chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0154] For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0155] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is chosen from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0156] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. Values ​​in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0157] More particularly, the concentration in oily phase of the composition, if present, is between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0158] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Preferably, according to this variant, the oil(s) are chosen from polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils. Preferably, the non-volatile oil is not chosen from silicone non-volatile oils.

[0159] Advantageously, if the composition contains it, the content of oil(s), preferably non-volatile, is between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0160] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based. More particularly, the content of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition does not comprise any volatile silicone oil. Waxes

[0161] The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.

[0162] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0163] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

[0164] The measurement protocol is as follows: A wax sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule". The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0165] The waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0166] More particularly, the waxes are chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as their mixtures.

[0167] Among the apolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e. comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), mention may in particular be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0168] Among the polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms), waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and / or ether group are suitable.

[0169] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montane wax, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used as wax.

[0170] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0171] Also suitable are waxes of the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate type, alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0172] As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C30-C50 alcohols, such as, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0173] The content of wax(es), if the composition comprises any, varies between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0174] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0175] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The heat of fusion of a pasty fat is the heat consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A pasty fat is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A pasty fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to transform the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0176] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

[0177] - vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

[0178] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example oil hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0179] - esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as the compound with the INCI name HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL ISOSTEARATE, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,

[0180] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES),

[0181] - polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-C10 and of diglycerol ester and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and of INCI name BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

[0182] - polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example:

[0183] * esters of dimer diol (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

[0184] * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, alcohol isostearyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL / STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

[0185] * esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE).

[0186] Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI name Phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof.

[0187] If the composition comprises at least one such pasty hydrocarbon compound, their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. USUAL ADDITIVES

[0188] The composition of the invention may contain additives commonly used in cosmetics. Mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active ingredients such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof. Antioxidants

[0189] In particular, antioxidant agents are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol X. They can be chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and meta bisulfite, thiol-type reducers, in particular cysteine. Mention may also be made of carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as fat-soluble colorants.

[0190] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0191] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

[0192] The composition according to the invention can be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0193] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

[0194] The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a flap.

[0195] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of an element, deformable or not, made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

[0196] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0197] The closure element may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By "snap-fastening" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

[0198] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.

[0199] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

[0200] The container may comprise means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container.

[0201] The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

[0202] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0203] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0204] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0205] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0206] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

[0207] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. EXAMPLES

[0208] The following compositions were prepared:

[0209] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) Composition 1 Composition A Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 15 15 Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate (Sunsoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagaku) ​​5 5 Polyglyceryl-4caprate 5 5 Polyglyceryl-5 laurate 5 5 Phytic acid (Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals Phytic Acid (IP6), Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals) 3 0 Red 7 10 10 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Preparation Method:

[0210] When cold, mix while stirring Rayneri, tannic acid, ethanol, and phytic acid if necessary. Then, introduce the polyglycerolated compounds once the tannic acid and phytic acid are dissolved. Sprinkle the pigment Red 7 and leave stirring for 15 minutes. Evaluation:

[0211] Each composition is stored for 15 days at 45°C (in an oven, away from light). The dosage is then carried out for each composition, once the composition has returned to room temperature.

[0212] Protocol for measuring ethyl gallate and gallic acid: HPLC chromatography on RESTEK Raptor Biphenyl 2.6pm 2.1x100mm column Linear elution gradient Eluant A —> Eluant B: Eluent A: CH3CN / H2O / H3PO4 (85%): 1 / 99 / 0.1% (volume). Eluent B: CH3CN / H2O / CH3OH / H3PO4 (85%): 1 / 9 / 90 / 0.1% (volume). Sample solubilized with a H2O / DMSO mixture (50 / 50% volume) Results:

[0213] [Tables2] Composition 1 Composition A Ethyl gallate 0.03% 1.82% Gallic acid 0.0178% 0.04%

[0214] It is noted that the presence of phytic acid makes it possible to significantly reduce significant ethyl gallate and gallic acid content over time. Makeup evaluation

[0215] For lip makeup, each composition is very easy to apply with a dip applicator, allowing a very thin film to be obtained on the lips.

[0216] The assembly does not transfer and has good resistance to water and oil.

[0217] Performance Evaluation Protocol#:

[0218] 1, Test Preparation#: Support#: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique) Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain an even coating. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Possibly take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the request. 2. Requests:

[0219] Preparation of a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.

[0220] Dry resistance: Rub once with the tissue folded lengthwise on one of the three made-up surfaces; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing make-up from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo. In the case where several passes are made, they would then be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e.: after each pass, the handkerchief is lifted to be repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0221] Water resistance: Insert the second makeup support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring. Possibly take a photo. The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

[0222] Oil resistance: Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up surface, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).

[0223] 3. Rating: For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0224] [Tables3] Note State of the deposit Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense staining - very significant to total transfer of the color - Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit. Intense staining - significant transfer of the color + Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit perceptible but which does not reveal the support Medium staining - average transfer of the color ++ No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Slight staining - little transfer of the color +++ No variation in the color of the deposit No staining or barely visible staining - no to very little transfer of the color It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the resistance of the deposit, it includes at least one coloring matter whose coloring is sufficiently intense (for example a red coloring matter, such as Red 7 in particular).

[0225]

[0226]

[0227] When comparing several compositions, they have the same shade (same quantity and same coloring matter). It should be noted that the resistance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts allowing a description of technical characteristics to be obtained - standards ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).

Claims

Claims

1. Makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or lips, preferably lips, more particularly makeup, comprising a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from those capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, preferably non-ionic, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated; c) Between 25 and 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably C2-C5, preferably ethanol, isopropanol; d) at least phytic acid; e) the composition optionally comprising water at a content of less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.

4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenol X content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) Y are chosen from those whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated silicone compounds, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycols or glycerin, polyethylene glycols, Poloxamer, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated esters, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol or sorbitan esters and Polysorbate, polyoxyethylenated sugar ester or ether derivatives, polyoxyethylenated alkylamines, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound(s) Y is / are chosen from: * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50; * Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50; * Polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms; or derived from vegetable oils;* Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated in C6-C4o, more particularly in C8-C30, or of vegetable oil derivatives, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units; * Polysorbate; * Mixtures thereof.;

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y are chosen from esters of polyglycerol chosen from the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, polyglycerolated Apricot Kernel Oil esters comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units, as well as mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compound Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably between 35 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phytic acid content varies from 0.1 to 6%, more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least water at a content less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one coloring matter, more particularly chosen from synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matters; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.