COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A ROSE EXTRACT AND MADECASSIC ACID

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety and a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, and its uses in particular for promoting the barrier function and for preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A ROSE EXTRACT AND MA-DECASSIO ACID FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials and in particular a cosmetic composition comprising a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety and madecassic acid or an extract containing it and its uses as an agent intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition and the skin barrier function and to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular of the skin of the face and / or body. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment. It is therefore subject to factors of exogenous origin (e.g. UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke, etc.) or endogenous origin (e.g. hormones, etc.) likely to induce signs of skin aging, which we will call respectively extrinsic aging or intrinsic (or physiological) aging.

[0003] Extrinsic aging leads to clinical alterations such as deep wrinkles and the formation of skin that has lost its firmness, suppleness and elasticity, as well as the alteration of the skin's barrier function. Concomitantly, intrinsic or physiological aging causes, in particular, a slowdown in the renewal of skin cells, the keratinocytes, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine wrinkles or fine lines.

[0004] The use of certain rose extracts in anti-aging is known, such as the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, also called 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, described in the patent application published under No. FR3130619.

[0005] However, there is a constant need to find new compounds or new combinations of active ingredients having improved properties in the prevention and / or aging of the skin, in particular via the reinforcement of the skin's barrier function.

[0006] Unexpectedly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of two particular cosmetic active ingredients, an extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of a bioactive serum fraction and madecassic acid or an extract containing it, makes it possible to significantly increase the barrier function of the skin and thus prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. Summary of the invention

[0007] A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0008] (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0009] (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid.

[0010] Another subject of the invention relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or lips, intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition; promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, the loss of elasticity and / or the loss of firmness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0011] The invention also relates to a combination of cosmetic active ingredients comprising:

[0012] (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0013] (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid,

[0014] and optionally in addition a compound chosen from

[0015] (iii) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent,

[0016] (iv) a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester,

[0017] (v) and their mixture.

[0018] Another object of the invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the combination according to the invention as an active combination for promoting and / or improving skin nutrition, promoting and / or improving the skin barrier function, preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, especially the skin of the face and / or neck. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] Cosmetic composition comprising a rose extract and madecassic acid

[0020] A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0021] (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0022] (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid.

[0023] Bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses and process for its preparation

[0024] By "bioactive serum fraction" or "bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses" or "Rose De Granville® Serum", "Zêta" or "Zêta fraction", is meant an extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, or rose 'Jardin de Granville®', comprising the enzymes, proteins, sugars, ions and other active molecules present in the cytosol of the cells making up the different plant tissues of roses. The extract according to the invention is distinct from a cryoextract of rose petals as described in application FR3066388. Plant material

[0025] The rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, frozen, freeze-dried, or any mixture thereof. In the context of the invention, fresh roses are preferably used.

[0026] The rose bush or rose 'Jardin de Granville®' is a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Roses anciennes André Eve SAS" and protected by Plant Variety Certificate under No. 20110345 with the species name Rosa L. and the variety name EVANRAT. This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, is permanently covered in roses, thus showing an excellent repeat-flowering character.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment, summer roses will be used to prepare the bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses, in particular summer rose petals. According to another embodiment, winter roses will preferably be used, in particular winter rose petals.

[0028] It is particularly advantageous to use the petals of roses of the Evanrat variety because they are rich in monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose), organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), polyphenols (catechin), vitamin C, amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine and glutamine), minerals (ash, potassium, calcium), and carotene.

[0029] By rich in monosaccharide sugars is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, in which said extract comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose.

[0030] By mineral-rich is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, wherein said extract comprises at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0031] Thus, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety and comprising at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and / or at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0032] Advantageously, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the skin's structure, while potassium amplifies skin hydration and boosts energy assimilation. Phyto-sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose) help to fill skin cells with energy. Extraction process

[0033] Fresh roses of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses are used as plant material. According to a preferred method, these are fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses.

[0034] Advantageously, said method does not require the addition of any solvent or exogenous liquid.

[0035] The method implemented to obtain the isolated bioactive serum fraction used according to the invention comprises the main steps of:

[0036] a) Cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);

[0037] b) “Treatment A” then mechanical separation of the Intracellular Colloidal Dispersion (ICD) to obtain Supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (Fraction B);

[0038] c) “Treatment B” then mechanical separation of Supernatant A to obtain Supernatant B and Fraction C (Cytoplasmic Fraction);

[0039] d) “Treatment C” then mechanical separation of Supernatant B to give a “Bioactive Serum Fraction” and a Fraction D (Precipitate); and

[0040] e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and / or stabilizer.

[0041] By "intracellular colloidal dispersion" or "ICD" or "DCI" is meant the liquid material expelled by pressing fresh Granville® roses, preferably fresh petals. The resulting liquid contains dispersed solid and / or semi-solid particles and, potentially, water-immiscible liquid droplets of various sizes (collectively referred to as particles), in a contiguous aqueous medium. The particles consist primarily of plant cell organelles, organelle fragments, and fiber-enriched residual material. The aqueous medium consists primarily of cytosols and vacuoles.

[0042] It is particularly advantageous to use the petals of roses of the Evanrat variety because they are rich in monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose), organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), polyphenols (catechin), vitamin C, amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine and glutamine), minerals (ash, potassium, calcium), and carotene.

[0043] By rich in monosaccharide sugars is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, in which said extract comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose.

[0044] By mineral-rich is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive fraction, wherein said extract comprises at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0045] Advantageously, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the skin's structure, while potassium amplifies skin hydration and boosts energy assimilation. Phyto-sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose) help to fill skin cells with energy.

[0046] The extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, preferably the extract of rose petals of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, according to the invention is in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction. Compared to the aqueous extracts known from the prior art (e.g. aqueous cryoextract of rose flowers (petals) of application FR3066388), this extract is more concentrated in natural compounds, in particular, in sugars, such as fructose or glucose, but also in polyphenols or even in minerals. Thus, due to the particular process used to obtain this extract, the rose extract according to the invention is distinct from rose water.

[0047] The “fraction of serum from fresh Granville® rose petals” resulting from steps a) to d) typically comprises from 2% to 20% of dry matter, preferably from 4% to 16% of dry matter, and more preferably from 6.0% to 10.0% of dry matter.

[0048] According to certain embodiments, the serum fraction obtained at the end of step d) is mixed with at least one preservative or at least one stabilizer to give a finished ingredient, or with a combination thereof to give the extract of fresh Granville® roses or “Granville® Rose Serum”, preferably the extract of fresh Granville® roses petals or “Granville® Rose Petal Serum”.

[0049] Particularly suitable stabilizing agents may include, without limitation, a preservative, a stabilizer, and / or mixtures thereof. Suitable preservatives and stabilizers for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, sodium metabisulfite, glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol. In a particular embodiment, the stabilizing agents may include at least one preservative, at least one stabilizer, at least one antioxidant, or mixtures thereof.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, the extract of roses, preferably of rose petals, obtained according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 90 to 94%, a dry extract content ranging from 6 to 10%. This extract of roses, preferably of rose petals, in the form of a bioactive fraction isolated according to the invention is called in the INCI name Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract.

[0051] According to another particular embodiment, the extract of roses, preferably of rose petals, obtained according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 89 to 93%, a dry extract content ranging from 6 to 10% and preservatives and / or stabilizers in a content ranging from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0052] The technical characteristics of each step of the extraction process mentioned above as well as those of the rose extract obtained by this process are described in detail in the French application published under No. FR3130619, the content of which is incorporated here by reference.

[0053] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the isolated bioactive serum fraction prepared in Example 1.1 of this application is used, as detailed below. Fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety or “Jardin de Granville®” rose are used as plant material. The bioactive serum fraction of rose petals used according to the invention is obtained according to the following protocol:

[0054] al) cleaning fresh rose petals by spraying with water at a temperature of approximately 12°C, for 0.1 to 0.3 minutes at a flow rate of 5 to 6 liters per minute,

[0055] a2) maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the roses using a press mechanical screw (model CP-6 Vincent Corporation, FL) to extract the contents of the liquid intercellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) from the fiber-enriched material (“Fraction A”);

[0056] bl) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves produced from magnetrons operating at a frequency between 2.45 and 5.8 GHz,

[0057] b2) centrifugation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);

[0058] cl) adjusting the pH level in supernatant A with an alkali (i.e., potassium carbonate), in order to obtain a pH ranging from 6 to 7,

[0059] c2) mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and the fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction);

[0060] dl) adjusting the pH level in supernatant B with citric acid to obtain a pH lower than 4.5,

[0061] d2) mechanical separation of the supernatant B to give a “serum fraction of fresh petals of Granville® roses” and a fraction D (precipitate); and

[0062] e) mixture of the “fraction of serum from fresh petals of Granville® roses” with potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate.

[0063] Granville® Rose Petal Serum (also called “Zêta serum”, or “Zf serum” in the following examples) contains 8% dry matter (active ingredient), 91.5% by weight of water, 0.15% by weight of potassium sorbate and 0.3% by weight of sodium benzoate. These contents are understood to be by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. The INCI name of this extract is Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, and Sodium Benzoate.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety may be present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.005 to 1% and in particular from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the content of this fraction is 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Madecassic acid or extract containing it

[0065] As indicated in the introductory part of this application, the anti-aging effect of the rose extract described above has already been confirmed. However, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the combination of this extract with madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, makes it possible to significantly increase this effect, in particular via the strengthening of the barrier function of the skin.

[0066] The plant Centella asiatica is a herbaceous plant of the Umbelliferae family whose active agents are pentacyclic triterpenes: asiatic acid, madecassic acid (genins), asiaticoside and madecassoside (heterosides). Asiatic acid, madecassic acid and asiaticoside can be used in the form of an extract called TEC A™ (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) comprising a mixture of these three acids.

[0067] The composition of TECA™ is:

[0068] Asiaticoside: 40%

[0069] Asiatic and madecassic acid: 60%.

[0070] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, by 'extract containing madecassic acid' used according to the invention, is meant an extract of Centella asiatica, in particular of leaves of Centella asiatica, comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid.

[0071] In particular, the extract marketed under the name TECA™ by SEPPIC will be used.

[0072] The INCI name of this TECA™ extract is: Asiaticoside (and) Madecassic Acid (and) Asiatic Acid.

[0073] The extract containing madecassic acid (TECA™) is generally in the form of a beige powder and has an amphiphilic character. It is generally predissolved at 60-80°C in suitable solvents such as C3-C6 glycols before incorporation into the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0074] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the madecassic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 2%, in particular from 0.001% to 1% and even more particularly from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. More preferably, the content of madecassic acid is 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the Centella asiatica extract containing madecassic acid, preferably the TECA™ extract, is present in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 3%, in particular from 0.001% to 2% and even more particularly from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. More preferably, the content of the Centella asiatica extract containing madecassic acid, preferably the TECA™ extract, is 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] As demonstrated by the experimental results described in the present application (see Table 4 in the Examples section), the skin barrier function of the composition of the present invention can be advantageously improved by the integration of a cosmetic active ingredient which is at least one compound chosen from:

[0077] - an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably rosewood summer rose, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent,

[0078] - a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester,

[0079] - and their mixture.

[0080] Aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety

[0081] The aqueous extract of rosewood is advantageously obtained using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.

[0082] By "rosewood extract" or "aqueous rosewood extract" as used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, it is understood in particular that the polar (hydrophilic) compounds of the rosewoods have been solubilized and / or have been extracted in a polar solvent. Advantageously, this rosewood extract is obtained by an eco-extraction process. We will thus speak of eco-extract of rosewood.

[0083] The expression "polar solvent" means that the solvent has a Polarity Index value that is equal to or greater than a value of 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar character of a molecule. For the polarity indices of solvents, refer to the article by LR SNYDER: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.

[0084] The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of OH type.

[0085] As cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents is chosen from water, C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, water is used.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, said extract is characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 3 to 5% and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. Plant material

[0087] The rosewood extracts used in the cosmetic composition of the invention are extracts of stems of a rose bush. According to the invention, we will speak indifferently of a rose extract, a rose bush extract or an extract in particular of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® rose.

[0088] The person skilled in the art will preferably choose selected roses whose properties are preserved by an organic environment and farming method. According to a particular and preferred method, an extract of rose petals of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' rose will be used.

[0089] Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous extract of rosewood used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety or Jardin de Granville® rose.

[0090] There are two types of rosewood depending on the time of year they are harvested:

[0091] - Winter wood, generally harvested between the months of November and April

[0092] - Summer woods, generally harvested between the months of May and October.

[0093] According to a particular and preferred mode, summer woods will be used. In the description, we will speak indifferently of rosewood or summer rosewood.

[0094] The rosewoods used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are obtained from freshly cut whole roses and are isolated from the rest of the plant by manual or mechanical separation.

[0095] Rosewoods include monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose), and polysaccharides, particularly disaccharides, polyphenols (catechin), amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, tyrosine and arginine), minerals (ash, sodium, potassium, calcium), flavonoids (mostly glycosylated) and tannins.

[0096] In particular, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens skin structure, while potassium amplifies skin hydration and boosts energy assimilation. Phytosugars (fructose, glucose) are intended to fill skin cells with energy.

[0097] According to one embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood used in the composition of the present invention comprises aspartic acid, tyrosine, and arginine as amino acids and glucose and fructose as total sugars.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, when present, is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 3%, in particular from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the content of the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] The aqueous extract of rosewood described above and its extraction process are notably described in detail in the French application published under No. FR3090380, the content of which is incorporated here by reference. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, an aqueous extract of rosewood is used as described in Example 1 of this application.

[0100] In particular, after filtration, an aqueous extract of rosewood is obtained at 3.7% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract. Peptide acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester

[0101] The peptide "acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester" used according to the invention is an N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl ester peptide. It is notably known as a cosmetic active ingredient under the trade name IDEALIFT™ marketed by the company SEDERMA. As a cosmetic active ingredient, its INCI name is: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Sorbitan Laurate (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester.

[0102] N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl ester (notably called YR-lipo when reference is made to the commercial product IDEALIFT™) is a dipeptide linked to a hexadecyl lipophilic chain allowing better bioavailability of the molecule in the skin.

[0103] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, which when present, is present in a content ranging from 0.005% to 1%, in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the content of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester is 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises:

[0105] (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety,

[0106] (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid,

[0107] (iii) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, and

[0108] (iv) a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 ketyl ester.

[0109] As demonstrated in the examples (see Table 4), the cosmetic composition of the invention comprising the 4 cosmetic active ingredients mentioned above according to this embodiment makes it possible to significantly increase the expression of genes (for example, the KRT1 and ZNF750 genes) involved in strengthening the barrier function.

[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises:

[0111] (i) the bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, which is present in a content ranging from 0.005 to 1% and in particular from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0112] (ii) an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, which is present in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 3%, in particular from 0.001% to 2% and more particularly from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0113] (iii) the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, which when present, is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 3%, in particular from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0114] (iv) acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, which when present, is present in a content ranging from 0.005% to 1%, in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight total composition. Cosmetic and galenic composition

[0115] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the neck.

[0116] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0117] The physiologically acceptable medium generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0118] By "topical use" or "topical application" is meant a composition intended for application to keratin materials. In fact, an oral composition is not intended for topical application to the skin.

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is a skin and / or lip care composition, in particular a skin care composition.

[0120] A composition for topical application according to the invention may be, for example, in the form of a cream, oil-in-water emulsion, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, balm, stick, or even powder.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of a lotion, a care cream, a serum, a balm, a facial fluid, a face and / or body care gel, a lip care composition, a lip balm, a lipstick, or a gloss.

[0122] In a preferred embodiment, said composition used according to the invention is in the form of a cream, a serum or a balm. Preferably the composition is in the form of a balm.

[0123] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0124] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). In particular, mention may be made of:

[0125] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures;

[0126] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0127] - C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures,

[0128] and mixtures thereof.

[0129] It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0130] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise a fatty (solid fatty substances) or oily phase.

[0131] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with each other, or not. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0132] An oily phase according to the invention may comprise natural, hydrocarbon, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The content of fatty or oily phase in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.2% to 45%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, and more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0134] The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as for example emollient agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tightening agents, plumping agents, lightening agents, fillers, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

[0135] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or body, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, at least one madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, perfumes, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tightening agents, plumping agents, lightening agents, fillers, mother-of-pearls and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic process

[0136] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and / or lips comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin, of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0137] By "skin and / or lips" according to the invention, we mean in particular healthy skin and / or lips, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be a pathological condition ('unhealthy' subjects, suffering from a pathology).

[0138] According to a particular embodiment, the application of the composition as defined according to the invention on the skin and / or the lips is intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition; promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, the loss of elasticity and / or the loss of firmness of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

[0139] In particular, the composition of the invention is applied to dry, fragile skin, in particular to tired skin which has lost its firmness, suppleness and elasticity. Association of assets and uses

[0140] The present invention also relates to a combination of cosmetic active ingredients comprising:

[0141] (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0142] (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid,

[0143] and optionally in addition a compound chosen from

[0144] (iii) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent,

[0145] (iv) a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester,

[0146] (v) and their mixture.

[0147] The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the combination of cosmetic active ingredients as defined above to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of tone, the loss of elasticity and / or the loss of firmness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, in particular of the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0148] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages (%) are expressed as percentages (%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1: Active ingredients in the cosmetic composition

[0149] The cosmetic active ingredients used in the experimental tests carried out within the framework of the present invention are listed below:

[0150] - a bioactive serum fraction isolated from Granville rose (EVANRAT variety) such as as prepared according to example 1.1 of the French application published under No. FR3130619 and named 'ZETA' in the examples below;

[0151] - a TEC A™ extract (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, and with INCI name Butylene Glycol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Sorbitan Laurate (and) Hy-droxyethylcellulose (and) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester, marketed by SEPPIC;

[0152] - an extract of Granville rosewood (EVANRAT variety) as prepared according to example 1 of the French application published under No. FR3090380;

[0153] - a peptide “acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester” marketed under the name IDEALIFT™ by SEDERMA and INCI name: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Sorbitan Laurate (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester.

[0154] Example 2: Protocol for studying the expression of genes of interest in culture of keratinocytes

[0155] Normal human keratinocytes (NHK) are cultured and then treated for 24 hours with active ingredients at the following concentrations:

[0156] Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) 0.05%

[0157] extract containing madecassic acid (TECA™) 0.0005%

[0158] Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) 0.05% + extract containing madecassic acid (TECA™) 0.0005%

[0159] Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) 0.05% + extract containing madecassic acid (TECA™) 0.0005% + acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester 0.005%

[0160] Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) 0.05% + extract containing madecassic acid (TECA™) 0.0005% + acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester 0.005% + rosewood 0.125%

[0161] The RNAs are extracted following the classic protocol, RNA dosage then TLDA card following the classic protocol.

[0162] After treatment of the KHN, a study by Taqman Low Density Array (TLDA) on the genes studied is carried out from the cDNAs obtained after reverse transcription of the extracted total RNAs. KHN Culture

[0163] Normal human keratinocytes are derived from a skin sample from plastic surgery. The cells are cultured in complete Epilife medium with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At sub-confluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the doses of rose extracts described above. TLDA (TaqMan Low Density Array) technology Obtaining total RNA

[0164] The cell culture medium is removed, and 250 pL of RLT lysis buffer (provided in the Nucleospin RNA trace kit, Macherey-Nagel) is added. The cells are scraped using a Cell Scraper and then the cell lysate is collected in a 1.2 mL deepwell (provided in the Nucleospin RNA kit). Total RNA is extracted according to the defined protocols.

[0165] The total RNA solutions obtained are assayed, and their quality verified, using a microplate reader, the spectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled with the Mi-crolabSTAR. This device is connected to the computer controlling the Robotics platform and has the specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software). The technique requires a 384-well microplate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermofisher) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot as well as the values ​​generated by the spectrostarNANO reader. Synthesis of complementary DNA

[0166] The reverse transcription (RT) kit used is the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). It was used according to the protocol provided. 500 ng of total RNA are diluted in water for a final volume of 25 pL. They are then incubated for 10 minutes at 25 °C then 2 hours at 37 °C in the presence of 25 pL of reaction mixture of High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X previously prepared as indicated below. The different incubations are carried out within the TRobot (Biométra).

[0167] [Tables 1] RT Buffer Reagents dNTP Primer RNase OUT RT H2O Volume 5 pL 2 pL 5 pL 0.5 pL 2.5 pL 10 pL

[0168] Table 1: High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X reaction mix for 1 reaction PCR-TaqMan Low Density Array

[0169] 15 pL of each RT are mixed with 60 pL of water then 75 pL of TaqMan Gene Ex pressure master mix (ThermoFisher), containing DNA polymerase, are added. After homogenization, 100 pL are deposited on the microfluidic cards containing the probes corresponding to the genes tested (Table 2 below), the latter are centrifuged and then sealed. The CD Rom corresponding to the profile of the genes deposited on the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the card. The control gene (or "endogenous" gene) to be used for the normalization of the results must be indicated before starting the PCR. The latter is carried out according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI Prism device 7900HT Sequence Detection System. The qPCR steps are 2 min at 50°C, 10 min at 94.5°C then 30s at 97°C and 1 min at 59.7°C for 40 cycles. Depending on the desired effects, the person skilled in the art determines which genes are relevant to include in the study; it is within his general knowledge to determine and optimize for each gene the nucleotide sequences of the PCR primers to be used. Statistical analyses

[0170] Real-time quantitative PCR can be used if its efficiency is between 90% and 110%. For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears is determined by the SDS 2.3 software. For the same test, the expression levels of the transcripts of interest obtained are normalized with respect to the value obtained for the housekeeping gene Beta-2-microglobulin. This gene, whose expression is constitutive and invariant, makes it possible to overcome all variations induced during the experiment (dosage of total RNAs, pipetting, reverse transcription step, PCR in the apparatus).

[0171] In the TLDA RT-PCR method, quantification is performed using the comparative AACt method. The relative quantification (RQ) values ​​obtained correspond to the amplitude level (x times more or less than the control) of the expression compared to our control here the untreated. The RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1: [Q172] RQ = 2'^^ — 2- <ACttraité-ACtnon traité)

[0173] ACt treated = Ct target gene treated - Ct housekeeping gene treated

[0174] Untreated ACt Untreated target gene Ct - Untreated housekeeping gene Ct

[0175] In order to evaluate statistically significant variations in transcriptional activity, we will use the Student t-test. Each condition is carried out in triplicate (3 untreated and 3 treated under the same conditions). The Fischer F-test is first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05 then the variance for the Student t-test is 2, when the Fischer F-test is less than a = 0.05 then the variance will be equal to 3. The transcriptional variations retained will be those which have a Student t-test less than a = 0.05.

[0176] Results are presented as average over n=3. Student's t-test was used to compare the effect between treated and untreated cells. A significant effect compared to the control (value of 1.0) is a result > 1.5.

[0177] Results are considered significant for p<0.05(*) or p<0.01(**).

[0178] Example 3: Effect of cosmetic active ingredients alone or in combination on the barrier function

[0179] We studied the effect of the cosmetic active ingredients used in the cosmetic composition of the invention (listed in Table 1) on the expression of genes involved in cell cohesion, epidermal differentiation, or homeostasis. of the epidermis and thus participating in the regulation of the skin barrier function. This study was carried out on keratinocyte culture following the protocol detailed in example 2.

[0180] [Tables2] Gene Symbol Reference TaqMan RefSeq GeneBank accession number Cytokeratin 1 KRT1 Hs00196158_ml NM_006121.3 Zinc Finger Protein 750 ZNF750 Hs00363852_ml NM_024702.2

[0181] Table 2: Reference of genes studied

[0182] [Tables3] Gene Symbol ZETA + TECA TM ZETA (isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose) TECA™ (Centella asiatica extract containing made-cassic acid) Cytokeratin 1 KRT1 3.085 (+208%) 1.644 1.005 Zinc Finger Protein 750 ZNF750 4.400 (+340%) 2.622 1.057

[0183] Table 3: Modulation of the expression of the genes of interest after treatment with the cosmetic composition (ZETA + TECA™) according to the invention and with ZETA or TECA alone.

[0184] TECA™ alone has no effect on the expression of the 2 genes studied (results close to 1.0 equivalent to the control).

[0185] ZETA alone has an effect on the expression of both genes, considered significant (> 1.5).

[0186] Unexpectedly, the Applicant has shown that the combination of the two active ingredients (one of which had no effect when taken alone) has a synergistic effect on the expression of the two genes, i.e. an effect greater than the sum of the effects of each of the active ingredients taken separately.

[0187] Furthermore, the result of 3.085 obtained for the ZETA + TECA™ association on the expression of cytokeratin corresponds to an increase, compared to the control (value of 1.0) according to the following calculation: (3.085 - 1.0) / 1 x 100= 208% increase in the expression of Cytokeratin 1 compared to the control.

[0188] These results show that the active combination according to the invention (isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) + extract containing madecassic acid (TECA™)) significantly increases the expression of the KRT1 and ZNF750 genes compared to the expression of these same genes when the keratinocytes are treated only with one of the active ingredients: isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose (ZETA) or madecassic acid (TECA™). It is thus demonstrated that the composition according to the invention stimulates mediators of epidermal differentiation and cell cohesion. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is therefore advantageous for promoting and / or stimulating the skin barrier function and in particular for promoting the firmness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin.

[0189] The effect of the cosmetic composition according to the invention on the stimulation of the skin barrier function, the promotion of firmness, suppleness and elasticity of the skin is further increased by the addition of the active ingredients: rosewood extract and / or the peptide acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester as demonstrated by the significant increase in the expression of the KRT1 and ZNF750 genes as shown in Table 4 below:

[0190] [Tables4] Gene Symbol ZETA + TECA™ + peptide ZETA+ TECA™ + rosewood extract + peptide Cytokeratin 1 KRT1 3.594 4.987 Zinc Finger Protein 750 ZNF750 4.711 8.935

[0191] Table 4: Modulation of the expression of genes of interest after treatment with preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Conclusion

[0192] All of the effects observed on the barrier function show that the compositions according to the invention are of interest for preventing and / or treating the main factors responsible for skin aging and thus enabling the improvement of the appearance of aged skin. Example 4: Formulations 4.1 Composition in the form of an emulsion

[0193] Aqueous phase:

[0194] Demineralized water qsp 100.0%

[0195] Glycols 20.0%

[0196] Preservatives 0.6%

[0197] Chelating agent 0.04%

[0198] Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%

[0199] Sodium Hydroxide 0.15%

[0200] Isolated bioactive serum fraction from rose 0.2% Centella asiatica extract containing

[0201] madecassic acid (TECA ™ from SEPPIC) 0.1%

[0202] Fatty phase:

[0203] Vegetable oil, esters, silicones 10%

[0204] Antioxidant 0.2%

[0205] Perfume concentrate 0.4%

[0206] Steareth-2 0.5%

[0207] Steareth-21 2%

[0208] The cosmetic composition is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0209] - the gelling agents are dispersed in the aqueous phase which is brought to 70°C;

[0210] - the fatty phase (excluding TECA™, bioactive serum fraction, perfume concentrate, an antioxidant) is heated to 70°C;

[0211] - the emulsion is produced by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase under strong agitation;

[0212] - the gelling agents are neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide and the emulsion is cooled under moderate agitation with introduction of TECA™, bioactive serum fraction, perfume concentrate, antioxidant and at low temperature.

[0213] Applied to the skin, particularly the skin of the face, this composition provides tone, elasticity and firmness, the features are enhanced, the face is reshaped.

[0214] 4.2: Composition in the form of an aqueous gel for the face

[0215] Isolated bioactive serum fraction from rose 0.5% Centella asiatica extract containing

[0216] madecassic acid (TECA ™ from SEPPIC) 1%

[0217] Preservatives 0.50%

[0218] Sugar 0.20%

[0219] Carbomer 0.70%

[0220] Purified water Qsp 100%

[0221] Tetrasodium EDTA powder 0.20%

[0222] Sodium hydroxide 0.17%

[0223] The cosmetic active ingredients of the composition according to the invention and the preservatives are mixed and homogenized at room temperature with stirring. The sugars are added with stirring, then the carbomer, then the water and the EDTA with stirring. The aqueous gel is then neutralized with the addition of sodium hydroxide with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

[0224] Applied to the skin of the face, this aqueous gel corrects skin dryness, increases firmness and helps slow down skin aging. 4.3: Lip balm

[0225] Silica 10%

[0226] Nylon powder 7%

[0227] Polyethylene wax 17%

[0228] Rosewood extract * 1%

[0229] Glycerin 14%

[0230] Isolated bioactive serum fraction of rose 0.5% Centella asiatica extract containing

[0231] madecassic acid (TECA ™ from SEPPIC) 0.5%

[0232] ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER 0.04%

[0233] BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5%

[0234] Isopropyl myristate qsl00%

[0235] *extract of Granville rosewood (EVANRAT variety) as prepared according to example 1 of the French application published under No. FR3090380

[0236] This composition is prepared by mixing the ingredients according to conventional methods of formulating balms.

[0237] This lip balm, after application to dry and / or fragile lips, helps to moisturize and smooth them.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid and at least one compound chosen from: (iii) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, and (iv) a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises: (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid (iii) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, and (iv) a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and / or at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rosewood comprises aspartic acid, tyrosine, and arginine as amino acids and glucose and fructose as total sugars.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract containing madecassic acid is an extract of Centella asiatica leaves comprising 40% asiaticoside acid and 60% madecassic acid and asiatic acid.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: (i) the bioactive serum fraction isolated from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety is present in a content ranging from 0.005 to 1% and in particular from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) the extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 3%, in particular from 0.001% to 2% and still in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (iii) the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, when present, is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 3%, in particular 0.2% at 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iv) the acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, when present, is present in a content ranging from 0.005% to 1%, in particular from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.,

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion, a care cream, a serum, a balm, a facial fluid, a care gel for the face and / or body, a lip care composition, a lip balm, a lipstick, or a gloss.

9. A method for the cosmetic treatment of healthy skin and / or lips, intended to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, and / or prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. Association of cosmetic active ingredients comprising: (i) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and (ii) a madecassic acid or an extract containing it, preferably an extract of Centella asiatica comprising asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid and optionally in addition a compound chosen from (iii) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, preferably summer rosewood, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, (iv) a peptide which is acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and (v) their mixture.

11. Use of the combination according to claim 10 as an active combination on healthy skin and / or lips to promote and / or improve skin nutrition, promote and / or improve the skin barrier function, prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of tone, loss of elasticity and / or loss of firmness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines, in particular of the skin of the face and / or neck.