Fluid W / O emulsion with a specific polyester, a volatile alkane, at least 50% liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase, a non-ionic polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic surfactant

Abstract

Title: Fluid W / O emulsion with at least 50% of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase, a volatile alkane, a particular polyester, a non-ionic polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic surfactant. The present invention relates to a fluid water-in-oil emulsion comprising: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil;and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, where the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase represent(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant of HLB less than 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) is greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.

Description

Title of the invention: Fluid W / O emulsion with a particular polyester, a volatile alkane, at least 50% liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase, a non-ionic polyhydroxy-tearic and / or polyricinoleic surfactant technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to provide, for the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, a fluid composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one particular polyester, at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least 50% by weight of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one non-ionic surfactant of HLB < 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxy stearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions.

[0002] Skincare and / or makeup compositions of keratinous materials can be presented in numerous textures that determine their sensory properties. Examples include oily textures, aqueous textures, gels, creams, mousses, powders, and sticks. These textures are more or less liquid or solid.

[0003] When it comes to a makeup product, liquid textures are appreciated because they are light and easy to apply, they also allow a more homogeneous distribution of pigments and pearlescent particles.

[0004] There are therefore many foundations, lip glosses, eyeshadows and liners on the market that have a fluid texture.

[0005] This liquid texture is obtained in galenics which can be anhydrous or in emulsion.

[0006] Emulsions can be defined as heterogeneous systems comprising at least two immiscible liquid phases, or phases exhibiting very low miscibility between them. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of fine droplets within the other phase, so as to result in a macroscopically homogeneous mixture visible to the naked eye. Typically, formulators of cosmetic compositions use emulsified systems combining an aqueous phase for freshness and an oily phase for comfort.

[0007] The key advantage of these systems is that they allow the combination, within the same composition, of ingredients or cosmetic actives with distinct affinities towards screw of these two aqueous and oily phases, which are not miscible at room temperature.

[0008] Inverse emulsion compositions (water-in-oil emulsions, where the aqueous phase is dispersed within the continuous oil phase) offer numerous advantages, given the good level of coverage and homogeneous appearance they provide compared to direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions). Their main drawback, however, is a significant greasy and sticky feeling, resulting in a lack of lightness in the textures obtained.

[0009] To overcome these drawbacks, it has already been proposed to formulate inverse emulsions comprising a significant amount of liquid component(s) in the aqueous phase, including water in part or in whole, in particular at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These emulsions are commonly called HIPE inverse emulsions, for "High Internal Phase Emulsion" in English.

[0010] HIPE inverse emulsions have the disadvantage of increasing viscosity due to the high quantity of water.

[0011] Furthermore, water-in-oil emulsions intended for makeup most often contain synthetic film-forming polymers which provide hold, but which also tend to increase the viscosity of the product, especially when they are present in the continuous oily phase.

[0012] It has already been proposed in prior art makeup compositions to use liquid or paste-like polyesters of natural origin to obtain holding properties.

[0013] In particular, documents JP2002-128623, JP2002-128628, JP2002-128629 and EP1604634 can be cited, which describe dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimer polyesters with the INCI name DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0014] To obtain hold properties in makeup compositions, polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol have also been proposed in document FR29316739, in particular the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol such as the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H® (INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER).

[0015] It is also known to be used, particularly in documents JP2005-325079 and JP2006-28129 are polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid used to provide structure to makeup compositions. Examples of polyesters include, in particular, those named INCI HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER as marketed under the name CRODABOND CSA® by the company CRODA and hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate with INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE as marketed under the names RISOCAST-DA-L®, RISOCAST DA-H®, by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO.

[0016] Nouryon Chemicals' US patent application US2021 / 0259930A1 discloses water-resistant water-in-oil emulsions comprising at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii), and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid, and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid, and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier. The single example formulation includes - 4% by weight of Tri(polyglyceryl-3 / Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate sold under the commercial reference CITHROL PGTL® by the company Croda, - 1.66% by weight of a mixture of 60% by weight of polyester and 40% by weight of Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, i.e. 1% polymer; - 44.62% by weight of liquid components of the aqueous phase [.

[0017] However, this type of polyester used alone or in association with certain surfactants in HIPE inverse emulsions does not allow for the production of skincare and / or makeup products with a fluid texture.

[0018] For the purposes of this invention, "fluid product" means any composition having a viscosity at 25°C of 1500 mPa·s (1500 centipoise) or less, measured using a Lamy Rheology Instruments RM 200® rotary rheometer after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm. After preparation, the samples are stored for 24 to 72 hours at room temperature (25°C). Viscosity measurements are performed at a temperature of 25°C, maintained constant by a Lamy Rheology Instruments EVA MS-R® temperature controller.

[0019] There remains a need to find new fluid skincare and / or makeup products in the form of HIPE inverse emulsion comprising at least one lipophilic polyester and at least one suitable emulsifying surfactant, allowing a fluid texture to be obtained.

[0020] During her research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a fluid water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, lips, and the contour of the eyes, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, including in particular, in a physiologically acceptable environment: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one fatty acid mono-compound having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid mono-compound; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, wherein the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase constitute(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) being greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.

[0021] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0022] The compositions according to the invention in the form of HIPE inverse emulsion are stable, have a fluid texture, and good adhesion properties. Furthermore, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that the combination of at least one polyester A) with at least one non-ionic surfactant D) as defined above in the compositions according to the invention produced, after application to keratinous material, a remarkably soft feel. Objects of the invention

[0023] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a fluid water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable environment: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one fatty acid mono-acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, wherein the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase constitute(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxy stearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) being greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.

[0024] The invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly of makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application on the keratinous materials of a composition as defined above.

[0025] The invention also relates to the use of at least one polyester A) and at least one non-ionic surfactant D) as defined above in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least 50% by weight of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in the oily phase, to provide softness to the touch after application. Definitions

[0026] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" means in particular the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0027] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0028] The term "polyester" means any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains a repeating ester functional group. The ester functional group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is an carbon atom, we speak of carboxylic ester, whose general form is R-COO-R'.

[0029] By 'polyglycerol-3', triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion", also called inverse emulsion, means any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture to the naked eye.

[0031] By "liquid component of the aqueous phase" is meant any molecule present in the phase which flows by its own weight at room temperature (20-25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 .105 Pa).

[0032] Polyester A) of polyglycerol-3 / dimer acid / monofatty acid in Cg-Qn

[0033] The composition according to the invention includes at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0034] The polyesters of the invention are described, as well as their synthesis, in US patent applications 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930.

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material varies from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0037] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iü).

[0038] By "totally non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)", it is meant that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction container before starting the reaction.

[0039] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total contents of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iü) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0040] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0041] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a remainder of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0042] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols that may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably conform to the formula (I): [Chem 1]

[0043] in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0044] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues including etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the "Gly" category and, therefore, may also be present.

[0045] Examples of polyglycerol-3 include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of oligoglycerols in these ranges.

[0046] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based with respect to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, in a preferred above all others, 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0047] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0048] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0049] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0050] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0051] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, since this is the integer closest to the mean. and / or the median. Dimer acid

[0052] The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as for example the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0053] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0054] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference will be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0055] Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0056] Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in Ci8 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce Ci8 unsaturated mono-fatty acids. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization leads primarily to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0057] In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0058] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a mo Higher ecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than that provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0059] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

[0060] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated Ci8dimerized fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C[8] fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0061] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0062] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimeric acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better yet at most 90% by weight, or even better at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimeric acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimeric acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). C8-C30 monofatty acid

[0063] C8-C30 mono-fatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful mono-fatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic, with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0064] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), undecylic acid (Cn), lauric acid (Ci2), tridecylic acid (Ci3), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecylic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), margaric acid (Ci7), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecyl acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0065] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also to allow esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in the nature by microbial action. Isostearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

[0066] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated fatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:l), vaccenic acid (C18:l), oleic acid (C18:l), elaidic acid (C18:l), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:l), gondolic acid (C20:l), dihomo-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:l), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the carbon chain is X carbon atoms long; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0067] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0068] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

[0069] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0070] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24 to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20 to 40%. Most importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description, and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4 to 40%.

[0071] 11 It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28 to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20 to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8 and 27%.

[0072] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33 to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20 to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13 and 20%.

[0073] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24 to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20 to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4 and 40%.

[0074] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28 to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20 to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8 and 27%.

[0075] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0076] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0077] In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0078] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0079] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0080] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0081] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0082] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0083] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0084] In another embodiment, the components reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 moles of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0085] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0086] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0087] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0088] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0089] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0091] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment of all, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0093] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described have demonstrated a viscosity that decreases with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values ​​are reported in mPa·s.

[0094] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0095] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a refractive index detector Wyatt Ri fraction. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse. Narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in the mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da; and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the weight- and number-average molecular weights were automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a preferred embodiment of all, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0097] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer exhibits a weight-average molecular weight combination > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and a viscosity of the pure polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0099] In practice, since the crude ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimeric and trimeric acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the dimeric acid at C36. The actual ranges may therefore be slightly different from the values ​​indicated above and can be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.

[0100] It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the crude ingredient used.

[0101] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0102] Thus, the completion rate of the TAch reaction is defined by the following equation: [Math 1]

[0103] Tach = 1 - Final AV / initial AV

[0104] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 25 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0106] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0107] The completion rate of the reaction being defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0108] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

[0109] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

[0110] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0111] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil as defined above.

[0112] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0113] The polyester oil solution of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the oil or non-volatile oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

[0114] The polyester oil solution of the invention preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil solution.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains an oily solution comprising 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0116] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction ' (i) polyglycerol-3, and (ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) of isostearic acid; the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

[0117] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name SOLAMAZE NATURAL® by the company NOURYON, comprising 60% by weight of polyester active ingredient and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to to the total weight of the oily solution. continuous oily phase B)

[0118] The composition of the invention comprises a continuous oily phase B). Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (20-45°C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0119] The oily phase B) of the composition of the invention comprises 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0120] The total concentration in oil phase B) of the composition of the invention varies, preferably, from 20 to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 22 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0121] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0122] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa).

[0123] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing predominantly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0124] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0125] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes. In particular, C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0126] C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate can also be mentioned. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, can also be used.

[0127] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0128] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0129] By way of example of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Notable examples include n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97® respectively, as well as their mixtures.

[0131] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® may be used.

[0132] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C[2] with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0133] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) is used, such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by BASF.

[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

[0135] The volatile oil or oils are preferably present in the composition of the invention at levels ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Non-volatile oils

[0136] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0137] Non-volatile oils according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0138] Examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, such as those marketed by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of branched fatty acids in Ci8-C36 and glycerol, such as that marketed under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stéarineries Dubois (INCI name Cl8-36 Acid Triglyceride); - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane; - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as di-caprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, triheptanoin, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, heptyl undecylenate, dii-sostearyl malate and tridecyl trimellitate; - liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature, comprising a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; - acetates; - citrates; - their mixtures.

[0139] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0141] According to a particularly preferred method, the composition according to the invention includes at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester is between 0 and 8, and more particularly from 1 to 3. Aqueous phase C)

[0142] The composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase C) in which the liquid component(s) represent at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The aqueous phase C) comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents, water-soluble actives, water-soluble antimicrobial agents.

[0144] A suitable water for the invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as blue water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0145] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be present in the aqueous phase, mention may be made of C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and butanol. Also mentioned are polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0147] According to a preferred form; the composition of the invention comprises one or more liquid components of the aqueous phase in a content ranging from 50 to 80% by weight, more preferably ranging from 52 to 70% and even more preferably ranging from 55 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The liquid component(s) present in the aqueous phase C) are generally made up in part or entirely of water, preferably of water and one or more water-soluble solvents such as those indicated above, active ingredients in liquid form, antimicrobial agents in liquid form and mixtures thereof.

[0149] According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention comprises water in an amount of at least 50% by weight, preferably from 50 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Non-ionic surfactants D) polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic of HLB < 8.0

[0151] The water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant D) with an HLB of less than 8.0, the chemical structure of which results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functional groups. Preferably, the Polyol is polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol.

[0152] For the purposes of the present invention, "surfactant" means an amphiphilic compound, that is to say, having two parts of different polarity. In general, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value, where HLB is the ratio of the hydrophilic to the lipophilic part of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For surfactants used in the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions, the HLB is generally less than 8.0. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0153] Examples include: - Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate sold under the commercial reference ISOLAN GPS® by the company Evonik Degussa, - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the trade name DEHYMULS PGPH® by BASF, - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference SY-GLYSTER CRS-75® by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the reference EMULIUM ILLUSTRO® by the company Gattefossé, - Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate sold under the trade name AKOLINE PGPR® by the company Aarhus Karlshamn, - Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference SUNSOFT N0.8I8R-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku, - Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate sold under the trade name NIKKOL DECAGLYN PR 20® by Nikko Chemicals Co., - PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the commercial reference CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) ® by the company Croda; and their mixtures.

[0154] The content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) D) according to the invention varies, preferably, from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Powdered coloring materials

[0155] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one powdered coloring material.

[0156] Powdered coloring materials can be selected from pigments minerals, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and their mixtures.

[0157] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0159] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0160] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 1 Opm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0162] Sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0163] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable waxes or animal; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0166] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0167] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0168] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by KOBO.

[0169] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0170] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0171] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0172] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0173] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0174] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0175] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0176] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular selected from metallic oxides, and more particularly uncoated black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0178] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0179] Preferably, the powdered colouring material(s) is / are present in the composition at a content of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0180] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, include: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - additional fat-soluble or water-soluble coloring agents - UV filters; - charges; - perfumes - conservatives - and their mixtures.

[0181] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that their desired cosmetic properties are not affected. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents

[0182] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0184] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0185] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0186] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as fat-soluble colorants, synthetic or natural such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0187]

[00133] Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0188]

[00134] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble coloring matter" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in a phase aqueous or water-miscible solvents and suitable for coloring.

[0189] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants may be cited, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Charges

[0190] Compositions according to the invention may also include at least one filler enabling, in particular, the provision of additional properties of matte finish, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0191] The term "filler" means colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. They provide body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0192] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0193] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally sourced fillers.

[0194] By "natural compound" is meant a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, by means of, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0195] The term “compound of natural origin” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that compound and / or a compound consisting mainly of natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, one may mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Tissue Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0196] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0197] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any another substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the charge in the composition.

[0198] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. b) Organic fillers

[0199] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0200] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition at a concentration of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, more particularly 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic applications

[0201] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0202] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a skin makeup product such as foundations, blushes and eyeshadows

[0203] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a lip makeup product such as a lipstick, a gloss.

[0204] In particular, the composition according to the invention is an eye contour makeup product such as an eyeliner, eyelashes or eyebrows such as a mascara.

[0205] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0206] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0207] The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for the packaging and application of a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0208] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may by for example, to be in the form of a tube.

[0209] Such an applicator may be attached to a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a closing position of said container and a makeup position.

[0210] Alternatively, such an applicator can be irreversibly mounted on said container.

[0211] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] Throughout the application, the expression "contains a" or "includes a" shall be understood as meaning "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0213] It is understood that the following examples are given for illustrative purposes only and are in no way limiting the scope of protection conferred by this application. Foundation examples

[0214] 1 / Influence of the nature of the non-ionic surfactant on viscosity

[0215] Examples 1 to 5 according to the invention and comparative examples 6 to 10 have been prepared, having the following common support:

[0216] {Table 1] Ingredients % by weight Phase ISODODECANE 17.33 A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 2.50 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 4.16 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0.77 WATER 58.02 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 1.22 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8.71 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.17 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.52 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1.60 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 5.00 D TOTAL 100.0 Ratio % Surfactant / % Polyester 1.00 Operating procedure:

[0217] The constituents of phase A were weighed together by dividing their respective quantities into two equal parts in two beakers, one being the main beaker and the other an annex.

[0218] Each of the two beakers was homogenized at room temperature by stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating blade for 3 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0219] In the main beaker, water was added very slowly, for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a rotor stator and gradually increasing the stirring speed from 800 to 1600 revolutions per minute in increments of 200 revolutions per minute every minute.

[0220] Meanwhile, the ingredients of phase C were added to the attached beaker and the mixture was stirred in a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating blade for 5 minutes at 500 revolutions per minute.

[0221] The contents of the beaker in the annex were then added to the main beaker, maintaining agitation at 1600 revolutions per minute until the mixture was completely homogenized.

[0222] Finally, the ethanol was added while maintaining agitation at 1600 rpm for 3 minutes. It was allowed to cool and then packaged in jars.

[0223] In each of the examples 1 to 10 to be tested, the nature of the non-ionic surfactant was varied from HLB < 8.0.

[0224] The viscosity of each composition was measured at 25°C using a Lamy Rheology Instruments RM 200® rotary rheometer after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm. After preparation, the samples were stored for 24 to 72 hours at room temperature (25°C). Viscosity measurements were performed at a temperature of 25°C, maintained constant by a Lamy Rheology Instruments EVA MS-R® temperature controller.

[0225] The viscosity results as a function of the nature of the non-ionic surfactant used are shown in the table below:

[0226] [Tables2] Surfactant Example Viscosity (mPa.s) PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV)® de CRODA) Exemple 1 (Invention) 192 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (DEHYMULS PGPH® de BASF) Exemple 2 (Invention) 694 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Po-lyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (EMULIUM ILLUSTRO de GATTEFOSSE) Exemple 3 (Invention) 820 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhy-droxystearate / Sebacate (ISOLAN GPS® d’EVONIK) Exemple 4 (Invention) 1150 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (SY-GLYSTER CRS-75 de SAKAMOTO YAKUHIN) Exemple 5 (Invention) 1405 Polyglycéryl-3 Diisostearate (LAMEFORM TGI® de BASF) Exemple 6 (Comparatif) 1573 Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate (SALACOS 41V® de NISSHIN OILLIO) Exemple 7 (Comparatif) 1824 Tri(Polyglyceryl-3 / lLauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate (SP CITHROL PGTL MBAL-LQ-(GD) de CRODA) Exemple 8 (Comparatif) 1907 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (ISOLAN GI34® d’EVONIK) Exemple 9 (Comparatif) 2158 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Di-linoleate (ISOLAN PDI® d’EVONIK) Exemple 10 (Comparatif) 2242 .

[0227] These results showed that examples 1 to 5 of the invention comprising a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0 which has in its chemical structure a polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic chain exhibited a fluid texture in the sense of the invention (viscosity < 1500 mPa.s) unlike comparative examples 6 to 10 comprising a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0 having a different chemical structure.

[0228] In addition, examples 1 to 5 of foundation of the invention were characterized by their ease of application in connection with their fluidity and a very soft film after drying.

[0229] II / Influence of the non-ionic surfactant / polvester weight ratio on viscosity

[0230] Examples 11 to 13 have been prepared, excluding common support inventions, with example Examples 4 of the invention as described above, but in which the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant to polyester has been varied. Examples 11 to 13 were prepared according to the same procedure as Examples 1 to 10.

[0231] [Tables3] Ingrédients Exemple 4 (Invention) Exemple 11 (Comparatif) Exemple 12 (Comparati f) Exemple 13 (Comparatif ) ISODODECANE 17,33 17,33 17,33 17,33 POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIL SOSTEARATE / POLYHYD ROXYSTEARATE / SEBAC ATE (ISOLAN GPS® -EVONIK) 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 DIISOSTEAROYL POLY-GLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 4,16 5,0 5,55 8,32 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0,77 0,43 0,21 0 WATER 58,02 57,52 57,19 54,63 SYNTHETIC FLUOR- PHLOGOPITE 1,22 1,22 1,22 1,22 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8,71 8,71 8,71 8,71 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL 0,17 0,17 0,17 0,17 GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.52 0.52 0.52 0.52 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 TOTAL (% by mass) 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Weight ratio Nonionic surfactant / Polyester 1.00 0.83 0.75 0.50

[0232] The viscosity at 25°C of each of the compositions 4, 11 to 13 was measured using a Lamy Rheology Instruments RM 200® rotary rheometer, after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm in the same previous conditions.

[0233] Viscosity results are shown in the table above.

[0234] [Tables4] Example Weight Ratio Non-ionic Surfactant / Polyester Viscosity (mPa.s) Example 4 (Invention) 1.00 1150 Example 11 (Comparative) 0.83 1907 Example 12 (Comparative) 0.75 2196 Example 13 (Comparative) 0.50 3037

[0235] These results showed that it was necessary to have a weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant / polyester greater than or equal to 0.9 to obtain a fluid texture formulation according to the invention, namely of viscosity less than or equal to 1500 mPa.s.

[0236] III / Influence of the absence of non-ionic surfactant with polyhydroxy-tearic and / or polyricinoleic structure,

[0237] Example 14, which is not part of the invention, has been prepared; it is a foundation not containing a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB < 8.0 and a polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic structure:

[0238] [Tables5] Ingrédients Exemple 14 (Invention) Phase A ISODODECANE 17,33 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 4,16 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0,77 WATER 60,52 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 1,22 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8,71 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0,17 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0,52 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1,60 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 5,00 D TOTAL 100,00 Ratio % Tensio-actif / % Polyester 0 Procedure: same procedure as the previous examples

[0239] The viscosity of the composition was measured at 25°C under the same conditions as those of Examples 1 to 13. The viscosity of this foundation was 2995 mPa.s.

[0240] This result showed that in the absence of the surfactant of the invention, the foundation is not fluid.

Claims

Demands

1. A fluid water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes, and eyebrows, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii), and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii), and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid, and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil;and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, wherein the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase represent(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant of HLB less than 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) being greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.

0.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein polyester A) is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein polyester A) is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of dimeric acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols conforming to formula (I) Hf— in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after the removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyester A) is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein polyester A) is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the components (i), (ii) and (iii) the following: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil(s) to the amount of polyester being less than 8.

0.

11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the polyester oil solution contains said polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil solution.

12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

13. A composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, comprising an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction of (i) a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total concentration in oil phase B) varies from 20 to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 22 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils are in contents ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isodecane.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0, preferably between 0 and 8 and more particularly from 1 to 3.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile oil is selected from hydrocarbon non-volatile oils and more preferably from fatty acid triglycerides containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly is a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in the aqueous phase C), the liquid component(s) represent from 50 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 52 to 70% and even more preferably from 55 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in an amount from 50 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-ionic surfactant D) is selected from - Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, - Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, - Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate, - Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate, - PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate; and mixtures thereof.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) D) varies from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably between 2 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular ethanol.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one colouring material, preferably selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof; and more particularly selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly coated iron oxides, coated titanium dioxides, and coated mixtures thereof.

25. Composition according to claim 24, wherein the powdered colouring material(s) is / are present in a content of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive selected from: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - UV filters - fillers; - perfumes - preservatives - and mixtures thereof.

27. ​​A packaging and application kit for a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, as defined in any one of the preceding claims, - an applicator for said composition.

28. A method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26.

29. Use of at least one polyester A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least one non-ionic surfactant D) as defined in any one of claims 1, 21 and 22 in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least 50% by weight of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in the oily phase, to provide softness to the touch after application.