LIQUID MAKEUP COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE FILMOGENS, OILS, SILICONE GUM AND PIGMENTS AND PROCESS FOR ITS APPLICATION
The liquid makeup composition addresses the issues of dryness and discomfort in matte finishes by using a specific blend of hydrocarbon oils, silicone compounds, and pigments, resulting in a comfortable, matte, and intensely colored finish with good hold and non-sticky application.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023011795
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing liquid makeup compositions with a matte finish often have high contents of volatile oils, leading to a decrease in non-volatile oil content after application, resulting in a feeling of dryness and discomfort on the skin or lips, and may also cause the appearance of a 'pantyhose' phenomenon due to film-forming polymers.
A liquid makeup composition comprising at least 20% by weight of a first hydrocarbon oil, a second silicone oil, a silicone elastomer, a silicone resin, a silicone polyamide, a silicone gum, and at least 8% by weight of pigments, with a specific weight ratio of (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) to pigments ranging from 1 to 2.7, which provides a comfortable, matte, and intense color finish without stickiness or migration.
The composition achieves a comfortable, matte, and homogeneous finish with good hold and intense color, while maintaining a non-sticky and precise application, without transferring or causing discomfort on the skin or lips.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: LIQUID MAKEUP COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE FILMOGENS, OILS, SILICONE GUM AND PIGMENTS AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT
[0001] The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for makeup, in particular for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least 20% by weight of at least one particular nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, a silicone gum, silicone compounds selected from oils, elastomers, resins, silicone polyamides and pigments in determined proportions.
[0002] Compositions intended for application, particularly to the lips, and providing a matte finish after application, are well known in the cosmetics field and are most often characterized by high levels of volatile oils and / or fillers. The high volatile oil content further increases the content of solid particles in the deposit, such as fillers and pigments, once the composition has been applied and dried. Regarding the fillers used in compositions providing a matte finish, organic particles are often found, particularly polymeric ones such as nylon, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyethylene, silicone resins or elastomers, or mineral ones, such as kaolin or silica. These fillers allow, among other things, for the partial absorption of remaining oily compounds, whether they originate from the composition itself or from the surface to which it is applied (sebum).Due to the high levels of volatile oils and solid particles in matte formulations, the content of non-volatile oils is consequently significantly reduced in the deposit after application and drying. This is why matte formulations are generally considered by users to be uncomfortable or even uncomfortable once applied, often resulting in a drying sensation, particularly on the lips. When it comes to formulations offering a matte finish with good staying power, an additional stickiness may occur, primarily due to the presence of film-forming polymer(s), further diminishing the comfort of such formulations once applied.
[0003] There are, of course, formulations that improve upon this comfort issue, providing matte deposits with good hold. But we want to further improve this aspect, while maintaining a significant matte finish, with a color that can be intense and opaque, without sacrificing hold or making the formulations too sticky.
[0004] The present invention therefore relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for making up human keratinous materials, in particular skin and / or lips, preferably lips, comprising:
[0005] - at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least a first non-polar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having 8 to 16 carbon atoms,
[0006] - at least one second oil chosen from among silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile volatiles,
[0007] - at least one silicone elastomer carried in a hydrocarbon oil or silicone-based, preferably volatile, identical or not to the first or second oil(s),
[0008] - at least one silicone resin,
[0009] - at least one silicone-coated polyamide,
[0010] - at least one silicone rubber,
[0011] - at least 8% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight total composition, in pigments,
[0012] - possibly water with a content of less than 5% by weight, preferably 3% in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0013] - the weight ratio (siliconized resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) being between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5.
[0014] It also relates to a makeup process, in which such a composition is applied to human keratinous materials, in particular to the lips.
[0015] The compositions according to the invention are easily applied, forming a non-sticky, precise, thin deposit that does not migrate, particularly in the wrinkles and fine lines around the lips. The deposits obtained after application of the compositions according to the invention are comfortable, matte, homogeneous, provide good coverage, and allow for intense color. Furthermore, the deposits have excellent hold and do not transfer.
[0016] These and other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow. FIRST NON-POLAR HYDROCARBONATE OILS
[0017] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0018] For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" means a hydrocarbon oil consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0019] Furthermore, the term "oil" refers, in the context of the invention, to a compound that is not miscible in water, liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0020] By "immiscible in water", it is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after shaking, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Observation is made visually or, if necessary, with a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to create a vortex within the mixture (approximately 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture is left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
[0021] The first nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from the following nonpolar hydrocarbon oils: - C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as, for example, isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, compounds with the following INCI names: C8-9 Isoalkane, Cl 1-13 Isoalkane, for example, marketed under the references Isopar E, Isopar L by the company Brenntag, - linear C8-Ci3 alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 respectively, as well as their mixtures, C9-12 Alkane (INCI name) which is more specifically a mixture of linear C9 to C12 alkanes, for example marketed under the reference Vegelight Silk by the company Biosynthis, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cétiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and - their mixtures.
[0022] Preferably the composition comprises, at least as a first oil(s), isododecane. Advantageously, the first oil is isododecane.
[0023] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first oil as described above.
[0024] Preferably, the content of first oil(s) is between 20 and 45% by weight, preferably between 25 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SECOND SILICONE OILS
[0025] The composition according to the invention further comprises, at least one second oil chosen from among silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, and different from silicone gums.
[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0027] More specifically, a silicone oil has a viscosity less than or equal to 100000 cSt (at 25°C, measured by ASTM D-445 standard). Non-volatile silicone oils
[0028] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil that remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours. In particular, these oils have a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).
[0029] Among non-volatile silicone oils, we can mention non-phenylated silicones, and phenylated silicones carrying or not a dimethicone fragment.
[0030] The expression "non-phenylated silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil not containing phenyl substituents.
[0031] Note that the term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.
[0032] More particularly, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.
[0033] In particular, non-phenylated silicones may be selected from the following non-volatile oils: - polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), for example products from the Belsil DM range by Wacker; Xiameter PMX-200 by Dow Corning, - Alkyldimethicones comprising aliphatic groups, particularly alkyl or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; each of these groups comprising 2 to 24 carbon atoms. An example is Cetyl Dimethicone (INCI name) marketed under the trade name AB IL WAX 9801 by Evonik Goldschmidt. - their mixtures.
[0034] Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0035] With regard to phenyl silicones, the following INCI names can be cited: Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Phenyltrimethicone, Di-phenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, as well as their mixtures.
[0036] These products are marketed in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone products such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS, or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu; Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 products marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445).
[0037] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil selected from polydimethylsiloxanes, from phenyl silicone oils, preferably not containing a dimethicone fragment, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0038] According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the second oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone non-phenylated oils, preferably polydimethylsiloxane. Volatile silicone oils
[0039] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one silicone volatile oil.
[0040] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa (OECD standard 104).
[0041] Volatile silicone oils can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
[0042] As an example of such oils, we can cite the following INCI names: Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Di-siloxane, Trisiloxane, Dimethicone in particular with a viscosity of less than 5 est, such as those marketed under the reference Xiameter PMX-200 silicone Fluid marketed by the company Dow Corning, with viscosities in particular of 1 cSt, 1.5 cSt, 3 cSt, or even KF 96 L 2 es from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.
[0043] According to an advantageous embodiment, the second volatile silicone oil is chosen from linear silicone oils.
[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises, as a second silicone oil(s), at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably linear, and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, preferably non-phenyl.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of second silicone oil(s) varies from 25 to 35% by weight, preferably from 27 to 32% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0046] More specifically, the content of the second non-volatile silicone oil(s) varies from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SILICONE RESIN
[0047] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.
[0048] More generally, the term "resin" refers to a compound with a three-dimensional structure. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, polyethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0049] The nomenclature for silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit: The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit with the formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter "D" signifies a Difunctional unit R1 R2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms. The letter "T" represents a Trifunctional unit with the formula RlSiO3 / 2.
[0050] In the motifs M, D, T defined above, Ri, namely RI, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0051] Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.
[0052] Various silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the dangling chains.
[0053] As examples of silicone resins that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, silicone resins of type MQ, type T or type MQT can be used. MQ Resins
[0054] As an example of MQ-type silicone resins, siloxysilicate resins such as alkyl siloxysilicates, aryl siloxysilicate or alkylaryl siloxy- silicates, of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging, for example, from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a radical as defined previously, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,
[0055] The silicone resin can be used alone or in the form of a mixture in an oil, which can in particular be chosen from the first and second oil(s) and their combinations.
[0056] Examples of MQ type silicone resins of the Trimethylsiloxysilicate type (INCI name) include those marketed under the reference SR 1000 by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker, or mixtures including it such as the products marketed under the names KF-7312J (in cyclopentasiloxane) by Shin-Etsu, "Silsoft 74 Fluid (in isododecane) by Momentive, Dowsil RSN-749 resin (in cyclopentasiloxane), Dowsil 593 Fluid (in a dimethicone) by Dow Corning.
[0057] Phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyl-dimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name: Silshine 151, marketed by General Electric), are also examples of silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate motifs. The preparation of such resins is described, in particular, in US patent 5817302. T Resins
[0058] Examples of T-type silicone resins include polysilse-quioxanes comprising predominantly units of the formula (RSiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsequioxanes possibly also comprising Si-OH terminal groups. Thus, these resins comprise, for example, at least 80 mole percent of T units.
[0059] Examples include polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl groups is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in US patent 5,246,694.
[0060] Preferably, Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins (INCI name) can be used in which R represents a methyl group, such as those marketed by Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK by Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L, or under the reference KR-251.
[0061] Among the silsesquioxane resins that can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of those corresponding to homopolymers and / or copolymers of silsesquioxane having an average siloxane unit of general formula Rln SiO(4-n) / 2, in which each RI is a propyl group, in which more than 80% In moles, RI represents a C3 to C1 alkyl group, n is a value from 1.0 to 1.4, and more than 60 moles of the copolymer comprises R1SiO3 / 2 units. Since each RI is a propyl group, these polymers are called polypropylsilses-quioxane resins (INCI name) or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and their manufacturing processes are described, for example, in documents US8586013, US2012 / 0301415, and US2006 / 0292096.
[0062] Among the polypropylsilsesquioxane resins suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of those marketed by Dow Corning under the names Dowsil 670 Fluid or Dowsil 680 ID Fluid, which are mixtures of polypropylsilsesquioxane with cyclopentasiloxane or isosodecane, respectively. MQT Resins
[0063] As examples of resins comprising MQT motifs, those cited in US document 5110890 are known in particular.
[0064] A preferred form of MQT-type resins is MQT-propyl resin (also called MQTPr). Such resins usable in compositions according to the invention include, in particular, those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0065] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d with RI, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, a, b, c and d being mole fractions, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d= 1, provided that more than 40% by mole of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0066] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)davec RI and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, RI being preferably a methyl group and R3 being preferably a propyl group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, a + b + c + d = l, eta, b, cetd being mole fractions, provided that more than 40% by mole of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0067] The siloxane resins usable according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mole percent of (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a and (SiO4 / 2)d units - RI representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - a and d being greater than zero, - the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mole percent of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units, - R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mole percent of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.
[0068] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30.
[0069] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a silicone resin, at least one alkylsiloxysilicate, arylsiloxysilicate, alkylarylsiloxysilicate, or polysilsesquioxane resin, as well as mixtures thereof; more particularly among the silicone resins with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and polypropylsilsesquioxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
[0070] Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 12 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0071] As previously stated, the weight ratio (silicone resin + polyamide) The ratio of silicone resin to pigment(s) is between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5. It is specified that for this calculation, the contents of silicone resin and silicone polyamide are considered as active ingredients. Furthermore, if the composition includes mica as a filler, its content is taken into account in the calculation of this weight ratio, along with the pigment content. Note that in this calculation, the silicone resin does not take into account the possible presence of a silicone wax, more specifically the presence of C30-45 polypropyl-silsesquioxane in the composition. SILICONE ELASTOMER
[0072] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone elastomer carried in at least one oil identical or different from the first or second oil.
[0073] For the purposes of this invention, "carried" means that the silicone elastomer is provided in the composition in a pre-dispersed form in at least one oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture in said oil or mixture of oils, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one oil. In particular, a silicone elastomer powder suspended in at least one such oil is not considered, for the purposes of this invention, to be an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in at least one oil.
[0074] The terms "silicone elastomer," "silicone elastomer," or "polyorganosiloxane elastomer" refer to a cross-linked, flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties, particularly the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.
[0075] In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles can be spherical or non-spherical particles.
[0076] The silicone elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.
[0077] The term "non-emulsifying" defines silicone elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene motifs (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl motifs.
[0078] Thus, the silicone elastomer can be obtained by an addition-crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, or even of a hydrocarbon chain having an ethylenic unsaturation at each end, particularly in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a condensation-crosslinking-dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation reaction crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.
[0079] According to a first preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenic unsaturation groups linked to silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP295886.
[0080] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0081] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0082] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
[0083] The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear chain structure or a branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0084] The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).
[0085] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0086] The compound (A) can thus be chosen from among methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.
[0087] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the organopoly- siloxanes, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid to the gum-like state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 °C.
[0088] Besides the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0089] Organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)-polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and copolymers dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.
[0090] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0091] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
[0092] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0093] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
[0094] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1,000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1,000 parts by weight of the total quantity of compounds (A) and (B).
[0095] According to a second preferred embodiment of the invention, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by reacting (A) a polysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) an alpha, omega diene of formula CH2=CH(CH2)XCH=CH2 in which x varies from 1 to 20, in particular from 4 to 19, especially in the presence of a platinum-based catalyst, and (C) a low molecular weight silicone, preferably a volatile silicone, as for example described in US patent 5654362.
[0096] Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP242219, EP295886, EP765656, US5654362 and in application JPS61194009.
[0097] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from the following INCI name compounds: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and preferably from Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
[0098] As mentioned previously, the elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is in a form carried in an oil which may be identical or different from the first and second oils, as well as the additional oils, described below and to whose descriptions reference may be made.
[0099] Thus, the oil is chosen from among silicone oils, from among polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, volatile or non-volatile.
[0100] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from volatile, linear or cyclic silicone oils, preferably linear.
[0101] According to a second embodiment, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular with the following INCI names: Dimethicone, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Phenyl Dimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone.
[0102] Preferably, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from among the silicone oils chosen from among the Dimethicone, in particular with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C.
[0103] According to a final particular embodiment of the invention, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane, or polar non-volatile hydrocarbons such as esters, like triethylhexanoin and vegetable oils, or even non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbons, such as squalane. Preferably, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane.
[0104] Preferably, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from among the Di-methicone, in particular with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, and from isododecane, alone or in mixture.
[0105] As non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-016F, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-102, USG-103, USG-105, USG-106 and USG-107A, by the company Shin Etsu, can be used in particular; Dowsil DC9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil DC9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9350 Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9241 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9140 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-8040 ID, by Dow Chemical Company; SFE 839 Gel by Momentive Performance Materials.
[0106] According to another embodiment, the elastomer may be an emulsifying elastomer.
[0107] Examples of emulsifying silicone elastomers include polyether silicone elastomers, polyglyceryl silicone elastomers, dimethicone polyether copolymers and mixtures thereof.
[0108] Emulsifying silicone elastomers may include functional groups selected from the group comprising polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, or polypropylene glycol. Examples include Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 Crosspolymer, sold under the name KSG-210®, and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, sold under the name KSG-710®, and Squalane (and) Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, sold under the name KSG-840®, by Shin Etsu Company. Also worth mentioning are PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017® by Shin Etsu, Dimethicone (and) PEG / PPG- 18 / 18 Dimethicone sold under the name ES-5226 DM® by Dow Corning Corporation, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (and) PEG-9 sold under the name KF-6028®, and Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6038®, by Shin Etsu.
[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.
[0110] The silicone elastomer content, expressed as active material, varies from 2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SILICONE POLYAMIDE
[0111] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silicone polyamide.
[0112] The silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0113] For the purposes of this invention, polymer means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.
[0114] The silicone polyamides in the composition of the invention may be polyorganosiloxane polymers such as, for example, those described in documents US5874069, US5919441, US6051216 and US5981680. According to the invention, the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: (1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or (2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
[0115] A) According to a first variant, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose amide motifs are arranged in the polymer chain.
[0116] Silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one motif conforming to the general formula (I):
[0117] [Chem.l] 1) in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(O)-NH-Y-NH- and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(O)-YC(O)- 2) R4, R5, R6 and R7, whether identical or different, represent a group chosen from: - hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic, in C1 to C40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms, - aryl groups from C6 to C10, possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups from C1 to C4, - polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, 3) The Xs, identical or different, represent a di-yl alkylene group, linear or branched in C1 to C30, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, 4) Y is a linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, or alky- divalent group arylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, in Q to C50, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or bear as a substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, cycloalkyl in C3 to C8, alkyl in Q to C40, aryl in C5 to C10, phenyl possibly substituted by 1 to 3 alkyl groups in Q to C3, hydroxyalkyl in Q to C3 and amino alkyl in Q to C6, or 5) Y represents a group satisfying the formula: R8-T< ; in which - T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C3 to C24, possibly substituted by a polyorgano-siloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents an alkyl group at Q to C50, linear or branched, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may include one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, 6) n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer from 50 to 1000, preferably from 50 to 700 and better still from 50 to 200.
[0118] It should be noted that “m” corresponds to the average degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the silicone polyamide.
[0119] According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the R4, R5, R6, and R7 of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl, and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of the R4, R5, R6, and R7 of the polymer are methyl groups.
[0120] According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, optionally comprising one or two additional free valences for forming bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group selected from: a) linear alkylene groups in C1 to C2O, preferably in C1 to C1O, b) branched alkylene groups that may include rings and non-conjugated unsaturations, at C30 to C56, c) the cycloalkylene groups at C5-C6, d) phenylene groups possibly substituted by one or more alkyl groups at C1 to C40,
[0121] e) the alkylene groups in C1 to C20, comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups,
[0122] f) the alkylene groups in C1 to C20, comprising one or more substituents, chosen among the hydroxyl groups, cycloalkanes at C3 to C8, hydroxyalkyls at C1 to C3 and al-kylamines at C1 to C6,
[0123] g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
[0124] [Chem.2] in which R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above.
[0125] B) According to the second variant, the silicone polyamides may be polymers comprising at least one motif conforming to formula (II):
[0126] [Chem.3] year in which - R4 and R6, identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I), - R10 represents a group as defined above for R4 and R6, or represents the group of formula -XG”-R12 in which X are as defined above for formula (I) and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, in C1 to C50 having optionally in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1 to C4, and G” represents —C(O)NH- and -HN-C(O)-. - R1' represents the formula group -XG”-R12 in which X, G” and R12 are as defined above, - miest is an integer ranging from 50 to 998, and - m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
[0127] It should be noted that "mi" corresponds to the average degree of polymerization of the portion silicone-coated polyamide.
[0128] According to the invention, the silicone polymer can be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical motifs, in particular motifs of formula (I) or of formula (II).
[0129] According to the invention, a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different formula units (I) can also be used, that is to say, a polymer in which at least one of the R4, R5, R6, R7, X, G, Y, m, and n is different in one of the units. The copolymer can also be formed of several formula units (II), in which at least one of the R4, R6, R10, R11, mi, and m2 is different in at least one of the units.
[0130] It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one motif of formula (I) and at least one motif of formula (II), the motifs of formula (I) and the motifs of formula (II) being able to be identical or different from each other.
[0131] According to a variant of the invention, a silicone polyamide can also be used comprising more or less a hydrocarbon motif having two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from the ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino groups and their combinations.
[0132] These copolymers can be block polymers, sequenced polymers or grafted polymers.
[0133] In formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene portion at least one of the following: 1) 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups, 2) a cycloalkyl group at C5 or C6, and 3) a phenylene group possibly substituted by 1 to 3 identical or different alkyl groups in C1 to C3.
[0134] In formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene groups may also be substituted by at least one element chosen from the group consisting of: - a hydroxyl group, - a cycloalkyl group at C3 to C8, - one to three alkyl groups in C1 to C40, - a phenyl group possibly substituted by one to three alkyl groups in C1 to C3 - a hydroxyalkyl group in C1 to C3, and - an aminoalkyl group in C1 to C6.
[0135] In these formulas (I) and (II), Y can also represent the formula R8 - T < ; where R8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:
[0136] [Chem.4] ____:Ç OB .____. H .___-fCHA__ (0¾ 0=¾ in which a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and R13 is a hydrogen atom or group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7.
[0137] In formulas (I) and (II), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched alkyl group in C1 to C40, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
[0138] As previously seen, the polymer may comprise identical or different formula (I) or (II) motifs.
[0139] Thus, the polymer can be a polyamide containing several formula (I) or (II) motifs of different lengths, or a polyamide conforming to formula (III):
[0140] [Chem.5] (iD in which X, Y, n, R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, mi and m2 which are different, are chosen from the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 300.
[0141] In this formula, the motifs can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the motifs can be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example, having different Y values. In this case, the polymer can conform to formula (IV):
[0142] [Chem.6] in which R4 to R7, X, Y, mb m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Y1 is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. As before, the different motifs can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.
[0143] In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer can also be composed of a grafted copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked by silicone chains with amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
[0144] According to the invention, as previously stated, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or dangling chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the dangling or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
[0145] According to one embodiment of the invention, a copolymer of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon polyamide can be used, namely a copolymer comprising formula units (I) or (II) and hydrocarbon polyamide units. In this case, the silicone polyamide units can be arranged at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.
[0146] Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one polyamide / polydimethylsiloxane polymer, in particular a polymer of general formula (I) having an index m of a value greater than 50, in particular greater than 75, in particular about 100.
[0147] Advantageously, the silicone polyamide of formula (I) has a weight average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0148] Preferably, X and Y independently represent a group selected from linear alkylene groups in Ci to C2o, preferably in Ci to Ci0.
[0149] By way of example of silicone polyamide, one can cite one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with examples 1 to 3 of the document US5981680, as well as the product marketed under reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning (INCI name: Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer).
[0150] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in application WO 2003 / 106614.
[0151] The composition may contain, instead of silicone polyamide, a polyorga-nosiloxane polymer containing two or more methane and / or urea groups, either in the polymer skeleton, or on side chains or as pendant groups.
[0152] Polymers comprising at least two methane and / or urea groups in the skeletons can be polymers comprising at least one motif conforming to the following formula:
[0153] [Chem.7] UC—NH—¥—NH-C He in which R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents -O- or -NH-, so that: - U - C(=O) - NH - ; corresponds to a urethane or urea group.
[0154] In this formula, Y can be an alkylene group, in C1 to C40, linear or branched, possibly substituted by an alkyl group in C1 to C15 or an aryl group in C5 to C10. Preferably, a -(CH2)e- group is used.
[0155] The polymer constituting the silicone polymer can be formed of silicone urethane and / or silicone urea motifs of different lengths and / or constitutions, and can be in the form of block, sequenced or statistical (random) copolymers.
[0156] As in the case of silicone polyamides of formula (I), (II) or (III), silicone polyurethanes or polyureas with different length and structure patterns, in particular patterns with different lengths by the number of silicone units, can be used in the invention.
[0157] The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a solid-to-liquid transition temperature ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a solid-to-liquid transition temperature ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
[0158] Advantageously, the silicone polyamide has an average molecular mass by weight of between 10,000 and 500,000 g / mol.
[0159] Preferably, the silicone polyamide is present in the composition in a content of 5 to 12% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SILICONE GUM
[0160] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone gum.
[0161] More specifically, the silicone gum is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes with a molecular mass by weight greater than or equal to 400000 g / mol.
[0162] Molecular weight masses are measured in a conventional manner in the field, for example using size exclusion chromatography (SEC).
[0163]
[0164]
[0165]
[0166]
[0167] Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone rubber is greater than or equal to 300,000 cSt, advantageously greater than or equal to 400,000 cSt, more particularly greater than or equal to 800,000 cSt, more particularly less than or equal to 10,000,000 cSt (at 25°C, measured according to ASTM D-445). More particularly, it is between 1,000,000 and 5,000,000 cSt (at 25°C, measured according to ASTM D-445). According to the present invention, a silicone gum is not considered to be a silicone oil. Silicone gum refers more specifically to non-crosslinked linear polyorganosiloxanes, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, optionally hydroxylated, phenylated, or vinylized, or combinations thereof. Therefore, the silicone gums implemented according to the invention are not silicone elastomers. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone gum corresponds to the following formula: [Chem. 8] X
[0168]
[0169] in which: - R7, R8, RI1 and R12 are either identical or different, and each is chosen from among alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - R9 and RIO are identical or different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably to an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, to a hydroxyl radical; - X is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably to an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical; - n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400,000 g / mol. In general, n and p can each take values from 0 to 5000, more particularly from 0 to 3000, knowing that n and p are not n and p simultaneously. According to a particular embodiment, silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum (INCI name Dimethicone), a polydimethylsiloxane gum comprising at least one aryl radical (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone), a gum with INCI name Dimethiconol, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a Dimethiconol gum.
[0170] The silicone gum(s) can be used alone or in mixture, in particular with a solvent chosen from the first oils, the second oils, described above, or mixtures thereof.
[0171] Silicone gums may optionally be used in a pre-solubilized form, for example, in a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, identical or different from the second silicone oils detailed previously. Usually, the proportion of gum represents 5 to 20% by weight, and preferably 10 to 15% by weight, in the silicone oil.
[0172] Among the silicone gums that can be used in the context of the present invention, we can mention Dimethicone gums (all the R and X radicals are methyl groups), sold under the names Silsoft SE 30 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, Belsil DM 500000 by the company Wacker. Among the Dimethiconol gums (the R radicals are methyl groups and the X radicals are hydroxyl groups), we can mention those sold under the names Xiameter® PMX-1401 Fluid (in cyclopentasiloxane), Xiameter PMX-1503 Fluid (in a Dimethicone), Xiameter® PMX-1403 Fluid (in a dimethicone) by the company Dow Corning, the products of the Mirasil D-DML-LV range marketed by the company Elkem Silicones, Silsoft 1215 (in cyclopentasiloxane) by the company Momentive Performance Materials.Regarding Diphenyl dimethicone type gums (R9 and Rio representing an aryl group, the other radicals R and X representing methyl groups), one can cite for example Mirasil C-DPDM (in cyclopentasiloxane) marketed by the company Elkem Silicones.
[0173] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone gum content, expressed as active material, ranges from 0.7 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] ADDITIONAL NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE OILS
[0175] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar.
[0176] For the purposes of the invention, a "polar" oil comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom. Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils
[0177] Among the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils suitable for carrying out the invention, the following oils may be mentioned in particular: - alcohols in the form of C10-C26, preferably monohydroxylated; - ethers with the formula ROR', carbonates with the formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hy group drocarbon comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably in C3-Ci6; - non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, and optionally one or more ether or hydroxyl functions; - their mixtures.
[0178] Among the alcohols in C10-C26, lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof are chosen, and preferably octyldodecanol.
[0179] Among ethers and carbonates, suitable options include dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate,
[0180] Among suitable ester oils, one may mention mono and die esters possibly comprising one or two ether groups; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acid and diol dimer or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0181] * Mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and possibly one or two ether groups. Among compounds of this type, one may cite monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly comprising at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and from monoalcohols or polyols, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and possibly one or two hydroxyl groups. Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, and 2-octyldecyl palmitate. isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (Ci2-Ci8 alcohols), 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof. We can also mention the esters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular, suitable for implementing the invention are the monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and the diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, and bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate. We can also mention esters of monocarboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, particularly those comprising 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, especially glycols, particularly C2-C5, of glycerol or polyglycerol. Examples include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0182] *Linear or branched triesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are esters obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, in C2-C40, preferably in C4-C40 and from polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl. For example, triacetin can be used, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in the C4-C36 range, particularly in the C8-C20 range, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid. In particular, saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride can be cited, for example, in products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, trioctanoate of glyceryl, acid triglycerides in Ci8_36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate. We can also mention glycerol or polyglycerol triesters and carboxylic monoacids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, glyceryl-2 tridecyl tetradecanoate. As an example, one can also mention oils comprising three ester functions, possibly hydroxylated or acetylated, of an acid comprising three carboxylic functions, in C2-C9, possibly hydroxylated, and of a monoalcohol in C2-C20. One can cite the esters of citric acid such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and their mixtures.
[0183] * Tetraesters comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, comprising possibly one to three ether groups, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraiso-nonanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate.
[0184] * Polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers and / or trimers unsaturated and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA, INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.
[0185] * Esters of diol or polyol dimers and mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids. Examples include diol and fatty acid esters and diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular those that can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially in C8 to C34, especially in C[2 to C22, especially in C16 to C20, and more particularly in C[8, such as dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimer esters, with INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for example such as those marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. Esters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid are also suitable, as described in particular in US patent 7317068. The polyol more specifically comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentae- rythritol. More specifically, monocarboxylic acids comprise 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, they more specifically comprise 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably adipic acid. Examples include Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed notably under the name Crodamol L by the company Croda, and Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, marketed under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO-MB by the company Inolex.
[0186] * vegetable oils such as castor oil, olive oil, oil coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, flaxseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pothnarron oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, liquid fraction of shea butter,and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof,
[0187] Preferably, an oil is chosen from among castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0188] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from: - vegetable oils, in particular those that have just been listed; - ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 12 carbon atoms; - their mixtures.
[0189] More specifically, if the composition contains them, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon additive oil(s) is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0190] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include any polar non-volatile hydrocarbon additive oil(s). Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils
[0191] More specifically, the non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned first oil(s), may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as, for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, particularly of plant origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: Cl8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 products marketed by Total, - Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - Polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, the non-volatile compounds in the Parléam® range marketed by Nippon Oil & Fat, - Polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds from the Silkflo range marketed by Ineos, and Dekanex by IMCD, - and their mixtures.
[0192] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one additional hydrocarbon oil, this is rather chosen from non-polar oils, alone or in mixture.
[0193] More particularly, if the composition contains them, the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon non-polar additive oil(s) is less than 5%, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include any additional oil(s). WAXES
[0195] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one wax selected from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, or silicone waxes, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0196] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.
[0197] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.
[0198] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (AHf) can also be measured, corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
[0199] Waxes can be siliconed and preferably hydrocarbon-based. They are also of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.
[0200] In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better greater than or equal to 40°C. Nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes
[0201] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax", in the context of the present invention, means a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms, such as for example N, O, Si, P....
[0202] Examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or Synthetic Wax), and microwaxes, particularly polyethylene microwaxes. Polar hydrocarbon waxes
[0203] For the purposes of this invention, "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom, more particularly selected from oxygen, possibly nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus containing alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0204] As a hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from among ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.
[0205] According to the invention, "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
[0206] By "alcohol wax", according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
[0207] In particular, it can be used as an ester wax, alone or in mixtures: (i) Waxes of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 6 to 50, particularly from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as, for example, oxygen or nitrogen, and whose melting point ranges, more specifically, from 30 to 120°C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in the C2O-C4O group (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in the C2O-C4O group, can be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are sold, in particular, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures can also be used. ii) di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1-propane tetrastearate), iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. (iv) We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having, in particular, linear or branched fatty chains in the C8-C32 range, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example, Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example, Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in particular in application FR2792190. (v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated Ci6-C30 carboxylic acid, possibly hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters, it is understood that all the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixtures. Suitable compounds include glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid triesters, or hydrogenated castor oil triesters, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties. vi) We can also mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, particularly refined. vii) We can also mention hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylated units (in C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20. By way of example, we can mention polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated camauba wax, such as PEG-12 camauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenated or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, wax based on Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, such as the Acticire product from the company Gattefossé. Silicone waxes
[0208] By "siliconized wax" is meant a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.
[0209] As an example of a silicone wax, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) may be cited, marketed, for example, under the names Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax and Dowsil AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax (in a mixture with C30-45 Olefin), by Dow Corning. Such waxes are described, in particular, in application WO2005 / 100444. Another example is silicone beeswax, such as Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax.
[0210] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one wax, more particularly selected from silicone waxes. Advantageously, the composition comprises, as a wax, a silicone wax, preferably C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane wax.
[0211] Preferably, the wax content varies advantageously from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PIGMENTS
[0212] The composition according to the invention further comprises, at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one pigment.
[0213] “Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0214] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0215] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.
[0216] The size of the pigment used in the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can be up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and can be up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. The sizes are measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, allowing the particle size distribution of all the particles to be determined over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows us to determine an "effective" particle diameter.This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.
[0217] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI, may be cited more particularly.
[0218] As mineral pigments usable in the invention, we can also mention the mother-of-pearl. By "mother-of-pearl," we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, produced by certain mollusks in their shells or synthesized, which exhibit a color effect through optical interference. Pearlescent pigments can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed. We can also cite, as an example of mother-of-pearl, natural mica covered with titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. Mother-of-pearl can more specifically possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0219] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, we can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized such as produced by classic coloring materials, such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means free from any color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to produce the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.
[0220] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0221] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then carry them. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound. For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0222] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using techniques of Surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, and the formation of a covalent bond. In one variation, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surfactant onto the surface of solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition. The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction between a surfactant and the surface of solid pigment particles, creating a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in US patent 4,578,266. Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0223] According to a particular mode, the colouring material is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally derived pigment.
[0224] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0225] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771.
[0226] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.
[0227] The pigment can also be a lacquer.
[0228] By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0229] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0230] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. Other examples include products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). As an example of lacquers, one can cite the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0231] More particularly, the pigment content is at least 8% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, advantageously represents 8 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] As previously stated, the weight ratio (siliconized resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) is between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5. LIPOPHILE THICKENING AGENT
[0233] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one lipophilic thickening agent, chosen more particularly from silicas, treated hy drophobic or not; lipophilic clays; alone or in mixture, and preferably silica, treated hydrophobic or not. Silicas
[0234] The composition according to the invention may thus include, as a lipophilic thickening agent, a pyrogenated silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. a) Pyrogenated silica
[0235] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.
[0236] Hydrophobic groups can be:
[0237] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of Pyrogenized silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot.
[0238] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are designated "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. b) Silica aerogels
[0239] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0240] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore and material contraction. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0241] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m² / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m² / g and better 600 to 800 m² / g, and a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 1000 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 8 pm and even better from 5 to 3 pm.
[0242] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.
[0243] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0244] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0245] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.
[0246] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).
[0247] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated by silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlor-rosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups by silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0248] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.
[0249] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.
[0250] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, we can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0251] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.
[0252] Preferably, aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Lipophilic clays
[0253] The lipophilic thickening agent usable within the framework of the present invention may also be a lipophilic clay.
[0254] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.
[0255] The term clay refers more particularly to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.
[0256] Clays can be natural or synthetic. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, as well as those of the vermiculite family, stevensite, and chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0257] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0258] More specifically, clays are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt, such as an ammonium halide, for example, a C22 ammonium chloride, with or without an aromatic group. In particular, examples include halides such as stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, or dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, for example, distearyl dimethyl ammonium.
[0259] Lipophilic clay can be in the form of a powder or in a form pre-dispersed in a solvent chosen for example from C1-C2 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.
[0260] The lipophilic clay suitable for implementing the invention may be selected from among the modified hectorites with the following INCI names: Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition includes Disteardimonium hectorite.
[0261] The lipophilic bentonite suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from the following INCI-named bentonites: Quaternium-18 bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or in mixtures.
[0262] Among the modified hectorites usable within the framework of the invention, we can mention: *among the Disteardimonium Hectorite: Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone Gel; *among the Stearalkonium Hectorite: the Bentone 27V; marketed by the company Elementis Specialties.
[0263] Among the modified bentonites usable within the scope of the invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: *among the quatemium-18 bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by BYK Additives Inc; *among the Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by BYK Additives Inc; *among the Quatemium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite: Claytone HT marketed by BYK Additives Inc.
[0264] According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay-type filler comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is selected from lipophilic hectorites, in particular Disteardimonium Hectorite.
[0265] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from silica, preferably hydrophobically treated.
[0266] More particularly, if the composition includes it, the content of lipophilic thickening agent represents 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER
[0267] The composition according to the invention may optionally include water. Preferably, if the composition includes water, the water content shall not exceed 5% by weight, and preferably not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition includes water, shall not exceed 2% by weight, in particular not exceed 1% by weight, and even more particularly not exceed 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. CHARGES
[0268] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, mineral or organic. It should be noted that the fillers, in particular the mineral fillers, are chosen from among compounds other than the aforementioned lipophilic thickening agents.
[0269] The term “mineral filler” means any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom, regardless of the presence of a coating on said filler.
[0270] By "organic charge" means, in the sense of the invention, solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon, silicone compound, or combinations thereof, regardless of their coating.
[0271] The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the pigments described previously.
[0272] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate shape between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
[0273] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the charges more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume average diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 pm, preferably at least 2 pm, advantageously between 2 and 15 pm. The particle size can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer of the Mastersizer 3000 type, from Malvern (see also ISO 13320).
[0274] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, especially one that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler within the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group.The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term alkyl(e) mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0275] Examples of mineral fillers include: - Silica (INCI name: Silica), preferably in the form of spherical particles, such as porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Myoshi; "Sunsphere H51", "Sunsphere H33" by Asahi Glass; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethyl- siloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere H33", "SA Sunsphere H53" by the company Asahi Glass; hollow silica microspheres. - Perlite such as those marketed by the company World Minerais under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, or OpTiMatTM 1430 OR or 2550 OR. Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by the company Imerys. - Zeolites such as the products marketed by the company Zeochem under the names ZeoFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT. - Calcium magnesium carbonate particles such as those marketed by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat, by Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV. Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite are also suitable. - Kaolin and talc particles, for example, marketed under the Imercare, Imercare Pharma; Luzenac Pharma ranges by the company Imerys; Rose Talc by the company Nippon Talc. - Natural or synthetic mica, such as the product with the INCI name Synthetic Fluor-phlogopite, and marketed under the names RonaFlair Silk Mica by the company Merck, Sericite PHN by the company Presperse, NHS-100 and NHS-150 by the company Myoshi Kasei, those marketed under the names PDM-NSO or FNK-100 by the company Topy. - Boron nitride; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass; bismuth oxychloride. - Glass or ceramic microcapsules; such as, for example, borosilicate particles. - Their mixtures.
[0276] If the composition includes it, the content of mineral filler(s) represents from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] Suitable organic fillers include, in particular: - Micronized waxes, natural or synthetic. - Metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. - Natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, notably corn, wheat or rice starches, cross-linked or not, starch powders cross-linked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, marketed under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch, powders waxy corn starch such as those marketed under the names C* GEL 04201 by Cargill, Corn Starch B by Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products. - Cellulose, particularly in the form of spherical particles, such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF products marketed by Daito Kasei Kogyo. - N-acylated amino acids with C8-C22 carbon atoms; the amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine. Examples include lauroyl lysine, marketed under the names Amihope LL by Ajinomoto and Corum 5105 by Corum. - Acrylic (co)polymer particles, and their derivatives, in particular: * of polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer), sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, or of Po-lymethyl Methacrylate, under the names Sepimat P by the company SEPPIC, Mi-crosphere M-100® by the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku; * of methyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber by the company Dow Corning; * crosslinked acrylate (INCI name: Acrylates Crosspolymer) marketed for example under the name Ganzpearl GMP-0820 by the company Ganz Chemical; * of allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Poly-Pore L200, Poly-Pore E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; * of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Polytrap 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; * of crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by the company Sekisui Plastics; * ethylene-acrylate copolymer, such as that marketed under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals. - acrylonitrile (co)polymer particles, in particular expanded hollow particles sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel, or microspheres marketed under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto. - Polyurethane particles, for example sold under the names D-400, D-800 (INCI name: HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), CS- 400 (INCI name: HDI / PPG / Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), by the company Toshiki. - Siliconized polymer particles, advantageously selected from: * silicone resin particles such as those with INCI name Polymethylsilses-quioxane, notably marketed under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145 A, by the company Momentive Performance Materials, * silicone elastomer particles coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, such as the products marketed under the name KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 (INCI name: Vinyl Di-methicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer), or KSP-300 (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer) by the company Shin Etsu; *silicone elastomer particles such as products marketed under the name Dowsil 9506 Cosmetic Powder, by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer); * Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer particles, for example in the form of bowls such as those marketed under the name TAK-110 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat. - Polyamide particles, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12, Nylon 6 / 12; like nylon powders sold under the names Orgasol 2002 EXS NAT COS, Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse, by the company Arkema. - Tetrafluoroethylene polymer particles (Teflon®).
[0278] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the organic charge can be selected from cellulose particles, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles such as lauroyl-lysine, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0279] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic filler content represents 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0280] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition may not include polymeric organic fillers, which are considered microplastics. It should be noted that, for the purposes of this invention, "microplastics" means solid, shape-stable polymer particles comprising carbon atoms in the polymer backbone, of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, insoluble in water (i.e., less than 2 g / L; OECD Directive 105), and smaller than 5 mm in size (and smaller than 15 mm for fibers). "Shape-stable" refers to particles that remain solid in the composition after its use. For example, polymer particles that form a film in the composition are not considered to be shape-stable. or during its use. Thus, preferably, the composition according to the invention may not include particles of acrylic polymers or copolymers, acrylonitril, polyurethane, polyamide, tetrafluoroethylene polymers, or silicone polymers, as described above. If, however, it does include such particles, their content would preferably be less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, if the composition does include such particles, the content of the aforementioned microplastic-type organic filler(s) is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most advantageously, the composition is entirely free of them.
[0281] Preferably, the composition may optionally include at least one mineral filler selected from kaolin, mica, and possibly silica other than lipophilic thickeners, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also include at least one organic filler, particularly cellulose, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof. OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS
[0282] Within the framework of the present invention, the composition may further contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.
[0283] Examples include preservatives; antioxidants; thickening agents other than those listed above or other than the waxes mentioned above; complexing agents; solvents; active ingredients; perfumes; etc.
[0284] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0285] The invention also relates to a method of makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, in particular lip care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.
[0286] It is further indicated that the compositions according to the invention include more particularly a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying such compositions.
[0287] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless The opposite is specified.
[0288] The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.
[0289] In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients in the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
[0290] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.
[0291] Raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name EXAMPLES Viscosity measurement protocol
[0292] Viscosity measurement is carried out with a composition sample at 25°C, one to three days after its manufacture (storage at room temperature), using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 2 or 3 wheel, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the formula, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm). Tights measurement protocol
[0293] The composition is deposited onto several 1000 mm deep stainless steel cups and leveled as quickly as possible. The cups are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.
[0294] The device used is a TAXT2i texture tester. The clamp mounted on the device grips a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder to the end of which is glued a smooth beige synthetic leather tip of the same diameter and 2 mm thick. Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol. Multiple measurements are never taken at the same location in the storage area.
[0295] The parameters for compression tests with sustained load are indicated below:
[0296] [Tables 1] Approach velocity (or pre-velocity) mm / s Velocity (from contact detection) 0.1 mm / s Force (and corresponding pressure) 0.283 N (or 0.11 MPa) Holding time 3 s Withdrawal velocity (or post-velocity) 0.1 mm / s
[0297] The adhesive is characterized by the peel work measured during unloading (tension phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter. Transfer measurement protocol 1. Test preparation:
[0298] Support: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).
[0299] Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in succession to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Optionally, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the application. 2. Requests:
[0300] Prepare a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square. Dry resistance:
[0301] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. You could take a photo.
[0302] If multiple passes are required, they should be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e., after each pass, the tissue is lifted and repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Optionally, a photograph should be taken between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of procedure can be used to assess the overall resistance of the deposit.
[0303] Water resistance:
[0304] Insert the second made-up support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally, take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. You could take a photo.
[0305] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance. Oil resistance:
[0306] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn). Rating:
[0307] For each request, note the result according to the table below:
[0308] [Tables2] Note: Condition of the deposit - Fabric surface in contact with the deposit - Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the substrate surface appears in places. Very intense staining - very significant to total color transfer. Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit. Intense staining - significant color transfer. + Perceptible decrease in the intensity of the deposit's color, but the substrate is not visible. Medium staining - medium color transfer. ++ No substantial change in the deposit's color. Slight staining - little color transfer. +++ No change in the deposit's color. No staining or barely visible staining - little to no color transfer. Example 1
[0309] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below: Ingrédients - nom INCI Composition 1 Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350 ; Wacker) 5 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL ; Ajinomoto) 1,1 Isododecane 15 Red 7 3,6 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 2,5 Red 28 Lake 9,2 Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant ; Dow) 7,3 Iron Oxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminium Hydroxide (NAI-C33-7001-10, Miyoshi) 0,1 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles; Dow) 0,7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, mélange Dimethicone 2cst) 26,8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performances Materials; dans l’isododécane ; 75% matière active) 17,6 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid ; Dow, dans l’isododécane; 15% Matière active) 8,4 Conservateurs / antioxydants 0,7 Rapport pondéral (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 1,6 1. Preparation of the composition
[0311] 1- Prepare the pigment powder by mixing the pigments in the Dimethicone and part of the isododecane, then carry out 3 passes in the three-cylinder pigment mill. 2- In a pan, introduce Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Dimethiconol, Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane and Lauroyl Lysine, at 100°C under Rayneri stirring for 30 minutes at 500 rpm. 3- Once the mixture is homogeneous, cool to 30°C and add the previously obtained pigment powder, stirring as you go. Once the mixture is homogenized, add the Dimethicone Crosspolymer and the remaining isododecane, stirring for 20 minutes at 600 rpm. 4- Add the Silica Silylate while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, at 600 rpm. 5- Finally add the preservatives and antioxidants and maintain the stirring for 15 minutes. 6- Place the mixture in a suitable closed container. 2. Evaluation of the composition
[0312] A fluid, stable, homogeneous composition is obtained, the viscosity of which, measured according to the protocol above, is 19.1 Poises.
[0313] The composition is easily applied in a thin layer, with a homogeneous color from the first application. The layer remains in place and does not migrate.
[0314] The evaluation of the adhesive according to the above protocol is 37.3 J.m2.
[0315] The deposit is comfortable and remains so over time.
[0316] The composition does not transfer (note +++). Examples 2
[0317] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below: Ingrédients - nom INCI Composition A comparative Composition 2 invention Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350 ; Wacker) 5,6 5,6 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL ; Ajinomoto) 1,1 1,1 Isododecane qs 100% qs 100% Red 7 10 10 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 1,9 1,9 Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant ; Dow) 8,2 8,2 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilses-quioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles; Dow) 0,7 0,7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, dans une Dimethicone 2cst) 26,8 26,8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performances Materials; dans l’isododécane ; 75% matière active) 19,5 19,5 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid ; Dow, dans l’isododécane; 15% Matière active) - 8,4 Rapport pondéral (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 2,3 2,3 1. Preparation of the composition
[0319] We proceed as in example 1. 2. Evaluation of compositions Composition A Composition 2 Viscosity 21.2 Poise 31.6 Poise Stickiness (J.m2) 47.9 53.6 Transfer Dry + / Water + / Oil - - Dry ++ / Water ++ / Oil ++
[0321] The compositions are easily applied in a thin layer, with a homogeneous color from the first pass. The layer remains in place and does not migrate.
[0322] However, the composition according to the invention exhibits significantly improved performance in all three types of dry, water and oil resistance tests compared to the comparative composition A. Comparative Example 3
[0323] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:
[0324] [Tableauxô] Ingredients - INCI name Comparative Composition B Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350; Wacker) 5.6 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL; Ajinomoto) 1.1 Isododecane qs 100% Red 7 10 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 1.9 Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant; Dow) 12.5 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles; Dow) 0.7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, in Dimethicone (2 cSt) 26.8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performance Materials; in isododecane; 75% active ingredient) 30 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid; Dow; in isododecane; 15% active ingredient) 8.4 Weight ratio (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 3.5 1. Preparation of the composition
[0325] We proceed as in example 1. 2. Evaluation of the composition
[0326] [Tables?] Composition B Viscosity 113.6 Sticky Points in J.m2 322.8 Dry Transfer +++ / Water +++ / Oil ++
[0327] The composition is applied quite easily in a thin deposit, with a homogeneous colouring from the first pass.
[0328] The repository remains in place and does not migrate but it is sticky after application and over time. Comparative Example 4
[0329] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:
[0330] [Tables8] Ingredients - INCI name Comparative Composition C Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350; Wacker) 5.6 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL; Ajinomoto) 1.1 Isododecane qsp 100% Red 7 13 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 1.9 Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant; Dow) 3.6 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles; Dow) 0.7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, in a Dimethicone (2 cSt) 26.8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performance Materials; in isododecane; 75% active ingredient) 8.5 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid; Dow, in isododecane; 15% active ingredient) 8.4 Weight ratio (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 0.8 1. Preparation of the composition
[0331] We proceed as in example 1. 2. Evaluation of the composition
[0332] [Tables9] Composition B Viscosity 12.4 Sticky Points in J.m2 14.6 Dry Transfer - / Water + / Oil---
[0333] The composition is easily applied in a thin layer, providing a homogeneous color from the first application. The non-sticky layer remains in place and does not migrate.
[0334] However, resistance to dry, water and oil tests is degraded.
Claims
Claims
1. Liquid cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first apolar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, - at least one second oil chosen from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, - at least one silicone elastomer carried in hydrocarbon or silicone oil, identical or not to the first oil(s) or to the second oil(s), - at least one silicone resin, - at least one silicone polyamide, - at least one silicone gum, - at least 8%, preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of pigments, - optionally water with a content of less than 5% in weight,preferably at 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - the weight ratio (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) being between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5.,
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the first apolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes such as preferably isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, C8-9 Isoalkane, Cl 1-13 Isoalkane, and mixtures thereof; from linear alkanes, preferably C8-C13, and mixtures thereof, such as preferably n-dodecane, n-tetradecane, C9-12 Alkane, the undecane-tridecane mixture; as well as mixtures thereof; and preferably the first apolar hydrocarbon oil is at least isododecane.
3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) ranges from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second oil is chosen from volatile silicone oils, linear or cyclic, such as in particular those of following INCI names: Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclo-hexasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Disiloxane, Trisiloxane, Di-methicone, in particular with a viscosity of less than 5, their mixtures, preferably among linear volatile silicone oils; among non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular those with the following INCI names: Dimethicone, Alkyldimethicones in which the alkyl group is C2-C24, phenylated silicones chosen from Phenyl trimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Tri-methicone; Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane; Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone; Diphenyl Dimethicone; Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane; as well as their mixtures; preferably among volatile or non-volatile Dimethicones, and their mixtures.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises, as second silicone oil(s), at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably linear, and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, preferably non-phenylated.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second silicone oil(s) varies from 25 to 35% by weight, preferably from 27 to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second non-volatile silicone oil(s) varies from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is chosen from alkylsiloxysilicate, arylsiloxysilicate, alkylaryl siloxysilicate, polysilsesquioxane resins, as well as their mixtures; more particularly from silicone resins with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsil-sesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, as well as their mixtures; the composition preferably comprising at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is present in a content ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 12 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A composition according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the silicone elastomer is chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, as well as their mixture and preferably Dimethicone Crosspolymer. ^Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from Dimethicone, in particular with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, and from isododecane, alone or as a mixture. ^Claim 12] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer content, expressed as active material, varies from 2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.^Claim 13] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit corresponding to the general formula (I): [Chem.l] R4 R' L. ..I...1 .1 -- GX SixJ—----JC----G —■— RC' RJ 1) in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(O)-NH-Y-NH- and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(O)-YC(O)- 2) R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, C1 to C40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms, C6 to C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C1 to C4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains which may or may not contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, 3) X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain a. or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, 4) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or may carry as a substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3 to C8 cycloalkyl, C4 to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 C1 to C3 alkyl, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C4 to C6 amino alkyl groups, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R8 T< ;in which - T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a C1 to C50 alkyl group, linear or branched, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 50 to 1000, preferably from 50 to 700 and better still from 50 to 200.;
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyamide is at least chosen from the polymers with the INCI name Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyamide content ranges from 5 to 12% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone gum has the following formula: in which: - R7, R8, RI 1 and R12 are identical or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - R9 and R10 are identical or different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical; - X is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical; - n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400,000 g / mol, and in particular can each take values ranging from 0 to 5000, knowing that n and p are not present simultaneously.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a dimethiconol gum.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone gum is present in a content, expressed as active material, ranging from 0.7 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one coloring material in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, as well as their mixtures.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigment content represents from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably from 10 to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one wax chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon waxes, or from silicone waxes, as well as their mixtures; more particularly, the composition comprises at least one silicone wax, preferably C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane wax (INCI name).
22. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax content(s) varies from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises water, at a content less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent, chosen from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated; lipophilic clays, as well as their mixtures, and preferably silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated.
25. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of lipophilic thickening agent represents from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises - at least one mineral filler, more particularly chosen from silica, perlite, calcium magnesium carbonate, kaolin, talc, natural or synthetic mica, boron nitride, glass or ceramic, as well as mixtures thereof; advantageously in a content representing from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or - at least one organic filler, more particularly chosen from micronized waxes, metallic soaps, polysaccharides, cellulose, N-acylated amino acids, particles of acrylic (co)polymers, acrylonitrile (co)polymer, polyurethane, polyamide, polytetrafluoroethylene, silicone polymer or mixtures thereof; preferably N-acylated amino acids;advantageously in a content representing from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, more particularly chosen from C10-C26 alcohols; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-C16; hydro-ester oils non-volatile carbonaceous oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, and optionally one or more ether or hydroxyl functions; mixtures thereof; the content of additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) if the composition comprises them, being more particularly less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition does not comprise them.
28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, different from the first oil(s) chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, more particularly paraffin oil, squalane of vegetable origin, isoeicosane, mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons such as C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, mixtures thereof; the content of additional non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition comprises any, is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
29. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.
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