Cosmetic composition comprising a particular organic carbonate, a particular crosslinked copolymer and a particular starch.

Abstract

Cosmetic composition without cyclic volatile silicones comprising: - at least one organic carbonate (a) of structure R1-O-CO-O -R2 with R1 and R2 independently of each other denoting a linear or branched C1 C8 alkyl radical or forming between them a linear or branched alkylene radical. - at least one crosslinked copolymer with non-polycyclic monomers (b) of which at least one of the monomers is a silicone (b1) having at least one vinyl group. - at least one starch without ester function and not hydrolyzed (c). Use of this composition in particular for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows. Process for treating cosmetic substrates with this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a particular organic carbonate, a particular crosslinked copolymer and a particular starch.

[0001] In the field of cosmetics, a current trend is towards the substitution of cyclic volatile silicones with non-silicone fatty substances to address the existence of doubts about the safety of these particular silicones. Indeed, these cyclic silicones are known to be toxic compounds for the environment and suspected of being endocrine disruptors. Very often this substitution is carried out with liquid fatty acid esters. These fatty acid esters nevertheless present significant risks of hydrolysis which harm the maintenance of the properties of the finished products over time. Furthermore, these esters increase the greasy character upon application of the compositions containing them. However, the sensory appreciation of cosmetic compositions upon application is a very important criterion for the acceptability of these compositions. There is therefore a significant need for cosmetic compositions that do not use volatile silicones, limit the risks of hydrolysis and offer remarkable touch qualities upon application.

[0002] To achieve the aforementioned objectives, the applicant recommends cosmetic compositions without cyclic volatile silicones comprising: -at least one organic carbonate (a) of structure R1-0-C0-0 -R2 with RI and R2 independently of each other denoting a linear or branched Cl C8 alkyl radical or forming between them a linear or branched alkylene radical. -at least one crosslinked copolymer with non-polycyclic monomers (b) of which at least one of the monomers is a silicone (bl) having at least one vinyl group, -at least one starch without ester function and not hydrolyzed (c).

[0003] For the purposes of the invention, the term cyclic volatile silicones means cyclic polymers of general formula [Si(CH3)2-O]n with n = 3 - 6. These compounds are generally known under the general INCI name of cyclomethicones. This family includes the compounds cyclotrisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. These compounds have vapor pressures at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) that are greater than 0.01 mmHg. Unhydrolyzed starch means starch that has not been subjected to a hydrolysis step aimed at fragmenting the starch into units with a lower PM than the initial one. By starch without ester function we mean a starch not including one or more ester groups in its structure. A polycyclic monomer means a monomer comprising several attached cycles in its chemical structure. The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". Ambient temperature means a temperature ranging from 20 to 35°C. Atmospheric pressure means the classic value of 1.013 x 105 Pa.

[0004] The compositions of the invention have good safety, good stability over time and make it possible to easily produce varied textures which, once produced, are easily applied to cosmetic substrates without an unpleasant feel and with a great contribution of softness, without a sticky or greasy effect. Furthermore, ingredients (a) and (c) can be biosourced, which reduces the ecological impact of these formulas.

[0005] In the prior art, document WO2023030963 A1 of the company UNILEVER IP HOLDINGS BV describes a photoprotective composition comprising: (i) 0.1 to 10% by weight of an oil-soluble sunscreen; (ii) 0.2 to 5% by weight of a water-soluble sunscreen; (iii) 0.1 to 5% by weight of a non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of between 9 and 20; (iv) 3 to 25% by weight of fatty acid; (v) 0.4 to 10% by weight of humectant; and (vi) 0.25 to 5% by weight of one or more polymers selected from (a) dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymers and (b) hydrophobically modified silicas. The only carbonate mentioned in the text is calcium carbonate, which is a mineral carbonate. The document also does not mention starches. Document CN113456515 A of the company KARLIE COSMETICS MFG CO LTD describes a silicone composition, characterized in that it comprises the following components in parts by mass: 30 to 90 parts of vinylpolydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer; 20 to 60 parts of polymethylsilsesquioxane; 5 to 30 parts of triethoxycaprylylsilane-treated fluorphlogopite; 5 to 20 parts of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate; and 5 to 20 parts of magnesium myristate. The crosslinked vinylpolydimethylsiloxane / polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane polymer is a copolymer in which one of the monomers is a polycyclic silicone compound (polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane). The starch derivative used (aluminum starch octenylsuccinate) is an ester-functional starch. No use of an organic carbonate is otherwise mentioned in this document. Document CN109662935 (A) of GUANGZHOU COSON COSMETIC CO LTD describes a liquid foundation, characterized in that the weight percentage of the components is: demineralized water 30% to 35%, cyclopentasiloxane 13% to 20%, titanium dioxide 8% to 15%, butanediol 3% to 8%, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3% to 5%, dioctyl carbonate 3% to 5%, PEG-9 polydimethyl lauryl silicone 2% to 4%, glycerin 2% to 4%, caprylic / capric triglycerides 2% to 4%, diisostearyl malate 2% to 4%, PEG-10 dimethicone 1% to 3%, phenyl trimethicone 1% to 3%, polymethyl methacrylate 1% to 3% %, HDI / trimethylol hexyl lactone crosspolymer 1% to 3%, trimethylsiloxysilicate 1% to 3%, 1,2-hexanediol 1% to 2%, distearylammonium hectorite 0.8% to 1.5%, sodium chloride 0.8% to 1.5%, beeswax 0.3% to 1.0%, triethoxyoctylsilane 0.3% to 1.0%, magnesium stearate 0.3% to 1.0%, polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 0.1% to 0.5%,Ethylhexylglycerol 0.1% to 0.5%, Silica 0.05% to 0.20%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.02% to 0.10%, Bisabolol 0.02% to 0.10%, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0.02% to 0.10%, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 0.01% to 0.10%, Trehalose 0.01% to 0.10%, Sodium PCA 0.01% to 0.10%, Tea Extract 0.01% to 0.10%, Centella Asiatica Extract 0.01% to 0.10%, Red Ganoderma Stem Extract 0.01% to 0.10%, Ginseng Root Extract 0.01% to 0.10%, Licorice Root Extract 0.01% to 0.10%, flavor 0.01% to 0.10%, disodium EDTA 0.01% to 0.10%, and an appropriate amount of pigments. This foundation contains a polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer and dioctyl carbonate. The description does not mention the possible presence of starch. In addition, the composition contains a cyclic volatile silicone (cyclopentasiloxane). CN104146887 (A) of GUANGZHOU SHENCAI COSMETICS CO LTD discloses a BB cream with long-term moisturizing function, which is characterized by being composed of the following components in weight percentage: Cyclopentamethicone 8.5% ~ 12%, Isotridecanol Isononanoate 3%, Ultrafine Silicon-treated Titanium Dioxide 3%, Nano-silicon-treated Titanium Dioxide 3%, Polydimethyl Silicone PEG-9 Ethyl Dimethicone 1.5-2%, Phenyl Trimethicone 2%, Dimethicone 2-3%, PEG-10 Dimethicone 1 ~ 1.5%, Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosslinked Polymer and Dimethicone 2 ~ 5%, Cyclopentasiloxane / Distearyldimethylammonium Hectorite / Propylene Glycol Carbonate 3-5 %, cyclopentasiloxane / acrylic acid ester / polydimethyl silicone polymer 0.5-2.0%,methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer 1-2%, dimethylsilyl silica 0.2-0.3%, glycerin 5-7%, propylene glycol 5-7%, disodium stearoylglutamate / aluminum hydroxide / black iron oxide 0.05 -0.1%, disodium stearoylglutamate / aluminum hydroxide / red iron oxide 0.1 - 0.15%, stearoylglutamate, disodium / aluminum hydroxide / iron oxide yellow 0.23 ~ 0.4%, antifreeze 1.0%, preservative 0.3 ~ 0.4%, bacteriostatic agent 0.1%, water-soluble / soluble collagen 1 ~ 2%, perfume 0.02 ~ 0.05%, dipentaerythritol tripolystearate 2 ~ 4%, the remainder water. Although this cream contains a dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosslinked copolymer and propylene glycol carbonate (another name for propylene carbonate), the description does not mention the possible presence of starch. In addition, the composition contains a cyclic volatile silicone (cyclopentamethicone or cyclopentasiloxane). Document KR20130074807 A of CHOI HONG RAK discloses a natural BB cream containing Seohyang, characterized in that it consists of: Purified water 51.06% by weight, titanium dioxide 7.70% by weight, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.00% by weight, dipropylene glycol 5.00% by weight, octocrylene 5.00% by weight, cyclopentasiloxane 4.08% by weight, dimethicone 3.60% by weight, cyclohexasiloxane 2.25% by weight, hexyl laurate 2.00% by weight, propylene glycol 2.00% by weight, arbutin 2.00% by weight, lauryl PEG-8 dimethicone 1.80% by weight, talc 0.91% by weight, isostearate Polyglyceryl-4 0.80% by weight, Beeswax 0.80% by weight, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.70% by weight, Disteardimonium Hectorite 0.70% by weight, Magnesium Stearate 0.30% by weight, Triethoxycaprylylsilane 0.25% by weight, Alumina 0.20% by weight, Propylene Carbonate 0.15%, Lecithin 0.10%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.10%, Adenosine 0.04%, Iron Oxide Yellow 0.44%,black iron oxide 0.26% by weight, red iron oxide 0.24% by weight, combined perfume 0.20% by weight, methylparaben 0.22% by weight, propylparaben 0.08% by weight and Seohyang 0.02% by weight. If this cream contains a dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosslinked polymer and propylene carbonate, the description does not mention the possible presence of a starch. In addition, the composition contains two cyclic volatile silicones (cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane). Document CN113057923 A of DONGSHENGYUAN RES INSTITUEE GUANGZHOU CO LTD discloses a gel-cream for cleansing and caring for the skin, characterized by a mixture of preparations A, B, C, D and E, the ingredients of preparation A comprising water, glycerin, disodium EDTA, panthenol, nicotinamide, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, trehalose, betaine, 1,2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, the ingredients of preparation B comprising a combination of behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, cacao grandiflora seed resin, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, of polydimethylsiloxane, isopropyl isostearate, polydimethylsiloxane, tocopherol, the ingredients of preparation C comprising isohexadecane, and the ingredients of preparation D comprising butylene glycol, olive water, white water lily flower extract, hydrolyzed collagen and an essence, the ingredients of preparation E comprising the dyes CI 15985 and CI 19140, as well as a particular method of manufacture. The cream gel contains a dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer. It also contains a special starch (sodium polyacrylate grafted starch). This starch contains ester functions. No use of an organic carbonate is mentioned in this document. Document CN109528600 A of the company NINGXIA AL BIO ENG R&D CO LTD describes a CC cream cushion technology, characterized by the presence of phases A, B, C and D, phase A comprising a mixture of mineral oil and distearylammonium hectorite, cyclopentasiloxane, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, aluminum octenyl succinate starch, poly glyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate and C12-C15 Alcohol Benzoate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone and mixture of stearyldimethicone / vinyl dimethicone, cetyl wax, phenyl trimethicone, dioctyl carbonate and a mixture of boron nitride and alkane dimethicone, phase B comprising titanium dioxide, oxide of zinc, mulberry linalool extract and a mixture of boron nitride, talc and polydimethylsiloxane, phase C comprising water, glycerin, sodium chloride,a mixture of palmitamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride and propylene glycol, Antarctic brown ice algae extract and blueberry extract, phase D comprising butanediol, DMDM ​​hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. , These creams contain dioctyl carbonate, and an ingredient described as a mixture of cetearyl dimethicone and vinyl dimethicone. It is difficult to confirm that this ingredient is indeed a crosslinked polymer according to the invention. The starch derivative used is an ester-functional starch. Furthermore, these creams contain cyclopentasiloxane, which is a cyclic volatile silicone. CN110693751 A of ZHOU LE discloses a beauty cream, characterized in that it comprises phase A, phase B, phase C and phase D, the remainder being water, wherein phase A comprises the following components by weight: 0.5-8.0 parts of 1,3-propanediol, 0.5-8.0 parts of glycerin, 0.01-2.0 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.1-3.0 parts of purslane extract, 0.2-2.0 parts of allantoin and 0.2-2 parts of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, phase B comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-5.0 parts of methylglucose sesquistearate, 0.1-1.0 parts of PEG-20 methylglucose, 3.0-8.0 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 3.0-9.0 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 0.5-4.0 parts of caprylic / capric triglyceride, phase C comprising the following components by weight: 0.01-2.0 parts of pearl powder, 0.5-3.0 parts of matrine and 0.1-2.0 parts of erythritol, phase D comprising the following components by weight: 0.1-1.5 parts of potato starch, 0.1-1.5 parts of Angelica Sinensis leaf and stem extract, 0.1-1.5 parts of Centella Asiatica leaf extract and 0.1-1.5 parts of magnolia flower extract, 1.0-3.0 parts of 1,2-pentanediol, 0.1-1.0 parts glyceryl caprylate, 0.1-1.0 parts capryloylhydroxamic acid, 0.5-6.0 parts propylene glycol, 0.1-3.0 parts hydrolyzed elastin, 0.1-3.0 parts oat beta-glucose polysaccharides, 0.1-3.0 parts oat kernel extract, 0.5-3.0 parts yeast fermentation lysate filtrate, 0.001-0,8 parts lactic acid bacterial fermentation product, 0.001-0.8 parts yeast fermentation product filtrate, 0.001-0.8 parts Aspergillus fermentation product, 0.001-0.5 parts Lactobacillus / pear juice fermentation product filtrate, 0.0001-0.8 parts glycolic acid, 0.0004-0.005 parts PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.0001-0.005 parts ethylhexylglycerin, 0.00001-0.01 parts O-cymene-5-ol, 0.008-0.8 parts wild soy protein, 0.1-2.0 parts butylene glycol, 0.01-0.3 parts hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, 0.004-0.3 parts of Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract, 0.005-0.8 parts of white willow bark extract, 0.002-0.8 parts of neem leaf extract, 0.035-0.5 parts of arginine ferulate, 0.035-0.5 parts of l-methylhydantoin-2-imide, 0.2-4.0 parts of menthol lactic acid ester, 0.2-4.0 parts of menthol, 0.001-2.0 parts of lavender oil, 0.2-5.0 parts of bomeol, 0.05-2,0 parts citric acid, 0.01-0.3 parts denatonium benzoate, 0.1-2.0 parts rosemary leaf oil, 0.15-10.0 parts Chinese herbal medicine extract, 0.02-3.0 parts Chinese herbal medicine root extract, 0.003-8.0 parts Chinese herbal medicine root powder. This beauty cream contains dioctyl carbonate (phase B) and potato starch (phase D). However, this document does not mention silicones. None of these prior art documents disclose a composition as proposed.

[0006] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one organic carbonate (a) of structure R1-O-C0-O -R2 with RI and R2 independently of each other denoting a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical or forming between them a linear or branched alkylene radical. Preferably the organic carbonates (a) are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The organic carbonate(s) (a) are preferably chosen from ethylene carbonate, diethyl carbonate, propylene carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate. Even more preferably, the organic carbonate(s) (a) are chosen from propylene carbonate and dicaprylyl carbonate. In a preferred variant, the compositions of the invention comprise at least two organic carbonates (b). Preferably, in this variant, the compositions of the invention comprise propylene carbonate and dicaprylyl carbonate. In the compositions of the invention, the organic carbonate(s) (a) represent from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0007] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one crosslinked copolymer (b) with non-polycyclic monomers of which at least one of the monomers is a silicone (bl) having at least one vinyl group. A vinyl group is a - CH=CH2 group. Preferably the silicone(s) (bl) has at least two vinyl groups in its structure. The silicone (bl) is preferably a vinyldimethylpolysiloxane. More preferably, silicone (bl) is a polydimethylsiloxane which has at least two vinyl groups. Even more preferably, the silicone(s) (bl) are polydimethylsiloxanes which have at least two vinyl groups carried by atoms located at the end of the silicone chain. In a preferred variant of the invention there is only one monomer of type (bl). Preferably, the crosslinked silicone copolymer (b) is derived from one or more monomers (bl) and from at least one silicone monomer (b2) different from the silicone monomers (bl) with vinyl group(s). The monomers according to the copolymers of the invention cannot contain a silsesquioxane group which is a polycyclic group within the meaning of the invention. More preferably the silicone monomer(s) (b2) are polydimethylsiloxanes. Even more preferably, the silicone monomer(s) (b2) are polydimethylsiloxanes having at least one group capable of reacting with a vinyl group, preferably at least one silane group. Preferably, the silicone monomers (bl) and (b2) can only be substituted by alkyl or phenyl groups, apart from their reactive groups, respectively vinyl or silanic. Preferably, apart from their reactive groups, respectively vinylic or silanic, the monomers (bl) and (b2) are unsubstituted polydimethylsiloxanes. Most preferably, the crosslinked copolymer (b) is a copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane and vinyldimethylpolysiloxane. As a preferred copolymer of the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer described under the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. In the compositions of the invention, the crosslinked silicone copolymer(s) (b) of which at least one of the monomers is a silicone (bl) having at least one vinyl group represent from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one starch without ester function and not hydrolyzed (c). The fact that the said starch does not contain an ester function limits its risk of evolution over time. Starch is a polysaccharide (or polysaccharide) composed of D-glucose units. It is a storage molecule for higher plants. Starch is a mixture of two homopolymers, amylose and amylopectin, composed of D-anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) units, both of which are polysaccharides with the general chemical formula (C6H10O5) without an ester function. The AGU units are linked together by α(l-4) bonds and α(l-6) bonds, which are the origin of branches in the structure of the molecule. These two homopolymers differ in their degree of branching and their degree of polymerization: - amylose, slightly branched with short branches and whose molecular mass can be between 10,000 and 1,000,000 daltons. - amylopectin or isoamylose, a branched molecule with long branches every 24 to 30 glucose units via a(l-6) bonds. Its molecular mass can range from 1,000,000 to 100,000,000 daltons, according to scientific estimates, and its branching level is around 5%. The ratio of amylose to amylopectin depends on the botanical source of the starch. Sometimes, phytoglycogen is also present (between 0 and 20% of the starch), an amylopectin analogue but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues. Starch grains generally appear as semi-crystalline granules in which amylopectin is organized into sheets, creating the crystalline zone, while amylose defines an amorphous zone between the different sheets. Starch can be present in many plant organs such as: - seeds (for example for chestnuts, cereals (wheat, corn, wheat, etc.) and legumes); - roots and in particular in tubers and rhizomes (potato, sweet potato, cassava, etc.) in this case it is called starch; - fruits (bananas, breadfruit) The starches of the invention are preferably chosen from corn, rice, cassava, oat, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches. Starch can be native or can undergo different modifications: - physical or physicochemical modifications: pre-cooking on a cylinder, in extrusion or in an atomization tower, pre-gelatinization (cooking followed by drying), dextrination (action of dry heat). - chemical modifications other than hydrolysis and esterification, these modifications involving chemical reagents such as: crosslinking, substitution (etherification for example), oxidation (introduction of carboxyl groups). There may of course be at the starch level (e) a mixture of physical or physicochemical modifications and / or a mixture of chemical modifications. Non-limiting examples of chemically modified starches are hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxyethyl starch. In a preferred version of the invention the starches (c) are not chemically modified. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of ingredients (c) preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The compositions of the invention may comprise at least one organic compound (d) which is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and has a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 11 to 29, and of structure Rl-(O)ni-R2 RI and R2 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 5 to 15 carbon atoms. ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1. In a first variant, the compound(s) (d) are chosen from those for which ni denotes the value 0. The compounds (d) are then alkanes. They can be linear or branched alkanes. The alkanes (d) will preferably be chosen from undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, isoeicosane, isoheneicosane, 2, 6, 10 trimethyldodecane, 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8 heptamethylnonane, 2, 6, 10, 14 tetramethylhexadecane. Mixtures containing these alkanes (d) are in particular those referenced with the following INCI names from the CTFA dictionary: C9-12 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C14-22 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane. C13-14 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane. In a second variant, the compound(s) (d) are chosen from those for which ni denotes the value 1. The compounds (d) are then liquid dialkyl ethers. They may be linear or branched dialkyl ethers, preferably linear. More preferably, R1 and R2 are identical. As ether (d), mention may be made of dioctyl ether or dicaprylyl ether. Preferably, compounds (d) have a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 11 to 28. More preferably ni denotes the value 0, the compounds (d) being chosen from alkanes. The compositions of the invention may comprise a proportion of compounds (d) preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, better still from 2% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more additional vegetable oils (e) which are not chemically transformed. These are liquid compounds at room temperature and atmospheric pressure which can flow under the action of their own weight. These oils mainly contain triglycerides. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol with carboxylic fatty acids, preferably containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. Among the oils of plant origin that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, coffee oil. These additional vegetable oils (e) may be present in the compositions of the invention at a concentration preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more vegetable waxes (f) based on mono and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified. By vegetable wax whose ester component is based on mono and / or diesters, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound such that all the mono and diesters derived from mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohols constitute the largest weight portion of the esters of the wax (f), before any possible transesterification or hydrogenation reaction. With the exception of a few specific cases, plant waxes are produced and located on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Plant cuticular waxes are essentially composed of aliphatic compounds that can be roughly divided into two groups. The first group contains the most common compounds of the alkane, ester, acid, primary alcohol, and aldehyde type. The second group, on the other hand, contains rarer compounds such as ketones, secondary alcohols, or [3-diketones. Other minor, non-aliphatic elements are also encountered. These are cyclic or polycyclic compounds grouped under the term triterpenoids and present in the form of alcohol (sterols, a-amyrin, [3-amyrin, lupeol, erythrodiol, etc.) or acids (ursolic, olenolic, etc.). For vegetable waxes, the esterification of fatty acids takes place with a mono or dihydroxy fatty alcohol, whereas for natural vegetable oils or vegetable butters it is with glycerol, in which case triesters (triglycerides) are formed. Monoesters or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are therefore the predominant elements of the ester fraction of waxes of the invention, which clearly distinguishes them from vegetable butters or oils. The fatty acids of the esters of these waxes are generally saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better still greater than 35°C, even better still greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one offered by METTLER under the reference DSC 30. The vegetable waxes (f) are preferably chosen from natural waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, from Japan, sumac wax, orange wax, bay leaf wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, lacquer tree fruit peel wax (Rhus Vemiciflua), soy wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, olive wax, avocado wax, peach wax, argan wax. As indicated previously, the vegetable waxes of the invention can be hydrogenated. These vegetable waxes, hydrogenated or not, can also be transesterified. In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group RI of an ester RC00-R1 with the organic group R2 from an alcohol R2-OH. This alcohol can be a monoalcohol or a polyol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acid or base catalyst. These transesterifications can also be carried out after hydrolysis, separation of fatty acids and reesterification. Hydrogenation and / or transesterification are the only chemical transformations that the vegetable waxes of the invention can undergo. Apart from the chemical operations mentioned above, obtaining the vegetable waxes (f) of the invention can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Preferably, the vegetable wax(es) (f) are chosen from camauba, candelilla, sunflower or rice waxes, hydrogenated or not, transesterified or not. The compositions of the invention may comprise vegetable waxes (f) in a proportion preferably ranging from 1% to 45% by weight, better still from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise one or more solid or semi-solid compounds (g) based on triglycerides of plant origin. The triglycerides are triesters of glycerol with carboxylic fatty acids preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. These compounds (g) can be chosen from butters. Butters are distinguished from oils, and particularly from vegetable oils, strictly speaking by their appearance. They are in fact in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and do not flow under the action of their own weight. They contain triglycerides with a significant fraction of saturated fatty acids. Compounds (g) generally have a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C. Preferably, compounds (g) are completely natural or may result from hydrogenation and / or transesterification, total or partial, of natural triglycerides of plant origin. Thus these compounds (g) can be chosen from oils of plant origin which have undergone only hydrogenation and / or transesterification as chemical transformations, thus modifying their composition and their appearance. This is particularly the case for jojoba butter. This is also the case for the ingredient Lipocire A offered by the company GATTEFOSSE. It should be noted that transesterified triglycerides can lead to waxy forms which should be distinguished from the vegetable waxes (f) of the invention by their chemical structure. The compounds (g) which can be used in the compositions of the invention can thus be more particularly chosen from natural vegetable butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, almond butter, jojoba butter, apricot butter, pistachio butter, argan butter, avocado butter, coconut butter, olive butter, plum butter, oat butter, cupuaçu butter, murumuru butter, apricot butter, hazelnut butter, tucuma butter, lemon butter, rice butter, macadamia butter, jasmine butter, rose butter and compounds which have only undergone hydrogenation as a chemical transformation, such as jojoba butter. Apart from possible chemical operations of hydrogenation or transesterification, obtaining these triglycerides can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Preferably, the compounds (g) are chosen from mango butter, jojoba butter, almond butter, better still from mango butter and almond butter. The compositions of the invention may preferably comprise a proportion of compounds (g) preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The compositions of the invention may also comprise additional fatty substances (h) different from the compounds (a) to (g) mentioned above. These additional fatty substances may be non-vegetable oils or waxes. The additional oils may be polar or apolar, volatile or non-volatile (an oil is said to be non-volatile in the invention when its vapor pressure is less than 0.01 mm of mercury at atmospheric pressure and room temperature). The additional oils may be hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. The apolar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes. Polar oils are preferably hydrocarbon-based. They can be chosen from branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. They can also be chosen from esters such as isopropyl myristate or isostearyl isosterate.

[0013] Synthetic oils may be transesterified vegetable oils. Additional waxes can be hydrocarbon-based and of natural, mineral, animal, or synthetic origin. They can be polar or apolar. Examples of apolar waxes include paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from non-salified saturated fatty acids, ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The unsalified saturated fatty acids are preferably chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid. The additional ester waxes are preferably chosen from fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) such as myristyl myristate or stearyl stearate. They may also be polyol esters. The additional alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol. These additional fatty substances (h) may be present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more absorbent powders (i) insoluble in water different from the starches (c) and preferably of natural origin. By water-insoluble is meant a compound whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. These absorbent powders are powders having a high water absorption capacity, at least equal to 100% of their weight. Even more preferably, this water absorption capacity is greater than or equal to 140% of their weight at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The water absorption capacity according to the invention can be evaluated by the tea bag technique as mentioned in patent application WO9715367 of the company CAMELOT SUPERABSORBENTS, via the parameter FS (Free swell liquid retention), with water absorption capacity = 100 x FS. This method consists of inserting a certain quantity of absorbent powder (0.2 g) into a water-permeable tea bag and immersing said bag in water for 10 minutes with stirring. After removing the bag from the aqueous medium, eliminating the water outside the bag, weighing the bag (W1) allows, after subtraction of a blank (W2) corresponding to a bag without absorbent powder, to determine the value of FS = ((W1-W2) / W3) - 1. In a variant of the invention, these absorbent powders have a mineral origin. As absorbent mineral powders, it is possible to use in particular silicas or silica-rich powders such as perlite or diatomaceous earths as well as silicates. It will be preferable to use silicates and in particular phyllosilicates. Talc, kaolinite, attapulgites, sepiolites, smectites including montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite may be chosen. Clays containing them may also be used, such as bentonite, kaolin. Preferably, aluminosilicates and compounds containing them will be used as absorbent natural mineral powders according to the invention. In another variant of the invention, these absorbent powders have a plant origin. For example, whole plants or powdered plant parts can be used. Examples include fruit, grain, and vegetable powders such as oat powder made from oat bran or stems. Bamboo powders, especially those made from sap, can also be used. Celluloses can also be used. Cellulose is a naturally occurring polymer composed of glucose units linked by a (1-4) beta glycosidic bond. The linear cellulose chains are bundled together as microfibrils that are spirally wound within plant cell walls. These microfibrils exhibit a high degree of internal linkage. three-dimensional by forming a crystalline structure, insoluble in water and resistant to reagents. There are, however, relatively small segments of the microfibril with weaker internal bonding. These are called amorphous regions. The preferred celluloses of the invention are microcrystalline celluloses. The crystalline region of the cellulose is isolated to produce microcrystalline cellulose. Microcrystalline cellulose is thus partially depolymerized pure cellulose obtained by various processes such as reactive extrusion, enzymatic mediation, mechanical grinding, ultrasonication, steam explosion and acid hydrolysis. Most often, microcrystalline cellulose is prepared from wood pulp: said pulp is cut into small particles which are chemically hydrolyzed, in particular with a mineral acid, then a filtration and drying step takes place. The particle size of the water-insoluble absorbent powders of natural origin other than non-hydrolyzed starches (c) preferably ranges from 1 pm to 500 pm, better still from 1 pm to 250 pm, even better still from 2 pm to 100 pm and most preferably from 4 pm to 50 pm. The particle size of the powders can be determined, for example, with a Horiba Cappa 700 particle size analyzer. Preferably the water-insoluble absorbent powders (i) other than starches are chosen from microcrystalline celluloses, silicas or silicates. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of absorbent powders insoluble (i) in water other than starches (c).

[0015] The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more insoluble colored pigments (j). By insoluble colored pigment we mean a colored species, therefore neither white nor colorless, whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. The insoluble colored pigments (j) preferably have a solubility of less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.02% by weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The pigments of the invention may be carbon pigments or non-carbon mineral pigments. Carbon pigments contain one or more carbon atoms in their chemical structure. The simplest of these carbon pigments is carbon black, which consists of only carbon atoms, excluding impurities. It can be derived from petrochemicals or natural plant sources. Other carbon-based colored pigments are organic molecules. These may include soluble synthetic organic dyes made insolubilized by formation of lacquers. These lacquers are generally metallic salts. We can thus cite organic lakes of calcium, barium, strontium, aluminum, titanium such as the aluminum lakes of DC Red 2, DC Red 3, DC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 22, DC Red 27, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Red 40, DC Blue 1, DC Green 3, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5, DC Orange 10, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 10, FDC Blue 2, FDC Yellow 5, FDC Yellow 6, FDC Blue 1, FDC Red 40, FDC Green 3, the barium / strontium lakes of DC Red 6, DC Red 9, the lakes of strontium lakes of DC Red 6, potassium lakes of DC Red 6, barium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 27, DC Orange 17, calcium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 27, DC Red 31, DC Red 34, calcium / strontium lakes of DC Red 7, zirconium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9,DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Orange 5, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 7, sodium lakes of DC Red 8, DC Red 10, aluminum / titanium / zirconium lake of DC Red 27. Colored pigments can also be mineral pigments not containing carbon atoms. Mineral colored pigments include iron oxides, ochres or earths, lapis lazuli, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver), and mica-titaniums. These pigments can optionally be combined with borosilicates. Synthetic organomineral pigments such as nacres coated on the surface with at least one organic colorant or pigment can also be used. In a preferred variant of the invention, the colored pigments used are not of animal origin. The colored pigments may optionally be used in the compositions of the invention in the form of dispersions, the dispersing agents being able to be solids or liquids. The colored pigments may be present in the compositions of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.0001% to 35% by weight, better still from 0.0005% by weight to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. The additional anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ethers carboxylates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfonates, N acyl lactylates, salts of N acylamino acids such as acyl glutamates. The additional amphoteric surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, camphordiacetates. The additional cationic surfactants may in particular be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts such as trialkyl ammonium halides and from quaternary diesters. The additional non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols or amides, esters of fatty acids and polyols and alkylpolyglycosides. The additional surfactants may be present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers and in particular thickening polymers, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, solvents such as glycols, humectants, moisturizing agents, vitamins, provitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular for regulating the pH of aqueous compositions or for salifying the ingredients), chelating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents for sensitive skin, anti-pollution agents, anti-blemish agents and slimming agents.

[0018] The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. For the purposes of the invention, anhydrous means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) less than 5% water by weight, even better less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably not containing water. These anhydrous compositions in particular do not contain added water. For the purposes of the invention, the term "aqueous" means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) from 5% to 99.5% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. If the compositions of the invention contain water, they comprise at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) preferably from 5 to 95%, better still from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a variant of the invention, the compositions are aqueous. Emulsions can be oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple emulsions. In another variant of the invention, the compositions are anhydrous. They do not contain any intentionally added water. The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably topical compositions. By topical is meant a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external body substrates. The compositions according to the invention are intended particularly for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferentially for the treatment of the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows. The compositions of the invention may in particular be used for skin makeup and in particular in foundations, eye shadows or eyeshadows, for lip makeup and in particular in lipsticks or glosses, and for eyelash or eyebrow makeup, in particular in mascaras. Even more preferably, the compositions of the invention are foundations and blushes used for skin makeup.

[0019] The invention also covers a method for treating the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a topical cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing. Preferably, the method of the invention is carried out without subsequent rinsing.

[0020] [Examples]

[0021] The example below illustrates the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in Table 1 below is that of a foundation intended to be applied to the face. This foundation is made up of ingredients that give it good safety and a low ecological impact. The manufacturing of the composition is carried out without problems. The stability over time of this composition is good. The application of this composition on the skin is easy, the touch is pleasant without any greasy or sticky effect on the face.

[0022] [Tables 1] Ingredient INCI Name Supplier Quantity in g per 100 g of composition DOWSIL™ EL TIP S Silicone Elastome r Blend Cl3-15 Alkane (and) Dime thicone / Vinyl Dimethicon e Crosspolymer DOW / UNIVAR 10,80 Cosmedia Gel CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and ) Stearalkoniun Hectorite ( and) Propylene Carbonate BASF / AMI 8,00 Cetiol Ultimate Undecane (and) Tridecane BASF / AMI 10,00 Cetiol iSAN Undecane BASF / AMI 10,00 Organic Virgin Plu mOil Prunus Domestica Seed 0 il SOPHIM 1,00 Cetiol C 5C Coco-Caprylate / caprate BASF / AMI 3,40 Dehymuls PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Polyhydrox y stéarate BASF / AMI 4,00 Lameform TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisosteara te BASF / AMI 3,60 Verdessence RiceTo uch Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch BASF / AMI 0,20 VITACEL® CS 5 A pple Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber JRS / AMI 0,70 Unitamuron H-22 Pentylene Glycol (and) Ta marindus Indica Seed Gum Givaudan 2,00 Hydrolite 5 Green Pentylene Glycol Symrise 2,50 Diglycerine S Diglycerin Rossow 2,00 MgSO4, 7H2O Magnésium Sulfate MERCK 0,90 Na benzoate Sodium Benzoate Brenntag 0,15 K sorbate Potassium Sorbate Cooper 0,10 Acide citrique pur Citric acid Univar 0,05 Sacran 05 B G Aphanothece Sacrum Exop olysaccharides (and) Butyl ene Glycol Daito Kasei Europe 0,50 Boroneige Boron Nitride Merck 4,00 ASL White TiO2 & SODIUM LAUR OYL GLUTAMATE, LYS Daito Kasei Europe 2,50 , INE, MAGNESIUM CHL ORIDE ASL Yellow Yellow Iron Oxide & SOD IUM LAUROYL GLUTA MATE, LYSINE, MAGN ESIUM CHLORIDE Daito Kasei Europe 2,50 ASL Red Red Iron Oxide & SODIU M LAUROYL GLUTAM ATE, LYSINE, MAGNES IUM CHLORIDE Daito Kasei Europe 2,50 ASL Black Black Iron Oxide & SODI UM LAUROYL GLUTA MATE, LYSINE, MAGN ESIUM CHLORIDE Daito Kasei Europe 2,5 Microcare® Silicon eM8100 Caprylyl Methicone THOR 2,70 Covi-Ox® T-90 EU C Tocopherol (and) Helianth us Annuus Seed Oil AZELIS 0,1 Eau déminéralisée Water VWR QSP 100

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition without cyclic volatile silicones comprising: - at least one organic carbonate (a) of structure R1-0-C0-0 -R2 with RI and R2 independently of each other denoting a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl radical or forming between them a linear or branched alkylene radical. - at least one crosslinked copolymer with non-polycyclic monomers (b) of which at least one of the monomers is a silicone (bl) having at least one vinyl group, - at least one starch without ester function and not hydrolyzed (c).

2. Composition according to claim 1 in which the organic carbonate(s) (a) are chosen from ethylene carbonate, diethyl carbonate, propylene carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 characterized in that it comprises at least two organic carbonates (b), preferably propylene carbonate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the silicone (bl) is a vinyldimethylpolysiloxane.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the crosslinked copolymer (b) is a copolymer of dimethylpolysiloxane and vinyldimethylpolysiloxane.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the starches (c) are not chemically modified.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one organic compound (d) which is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure and has a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 11 to 29, and of structure Rl-(O)nl-R2 RI and R2 denoting, independently of each other, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1

8. Composition according to the preceding claim with ni denoting the value 0 and comprising at least one alkane preferably chosen from undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, isoeicosane, isoheneicosane, 2, 6, 10 trimethyldodecane, 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8 heptamethylnonane, 2, 6, 10, 14 tetramethylhexadecane.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more additional vegetable oils (e) not chemically transformed.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more absorbent powders (i) insoluble in water other than starches (c), preferably chosen from microcrystalline celluloses, silicas or silicates.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more insoluble colored pigments (j), preferably chosen from carbon pigments or non-carbon mineral pigments.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is aqueous.

13. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferably for the treatment of the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows.

14. A method of treating the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising applying to the substrate concerned a cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing, preferably without subsequent rinsing.