Cosmetic use of azelaic acid to increase cell longevity

Abstract

Cosmetic Use of Azelaic Acid The present invention relates to the use, particularly in cosmetics, of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to increase the longevity of skin cells. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic use of azelaic acid to increase cell longevity. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to increase the longevity of skin cells.

[0002] The present invention also relates to the use of azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates or mixtures thereof, to prevent and / or treat the sign(s) of skin aging, in particular to improve the quality, texture and / or appearance of the skin, and / or to combat stress induced by the environment; to reduce skin roughness, and / or to prevent and / or reduce fine lines and wrinkles; and / or to improve the suppleness, bounce and / or firmness of the skin; and / or to improve the resilience, radiance and / or health of the skin.

[0003] In particular, the present invention relates to the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulate energy mitochondrial metabolism, and / or increase the maximum respiration of skin cells. Previous technique

[0004] Aging is characterized by a progressive decline in physiological functions, which originates at the cellular level. Longevity, defined as the ability of a cell to maintain its integrity and functions over a prolonged period, depends on the integrity of various cellular processes.

[0005] The cellular processes involved in longevity are constantly challenged by a multitude of stressors, leading to progressive deterioration and the appearance of cellular and tissue damage.

[0006] The skin, the organ most exposed to environmental factors (UV rays, pollution, etc.), undergoes accelerated aging called extrinsic aging in addition to intrinsic aging related to age. These processes affect the cells of the epidermis, dermis and skin appendages, as well as the extracellular matrix.

[0007] Mitophagy is a crucial process for maintaining cellular health, particularly in skin cells. It allows the elimination of damaged or dysfunctional mitochondria, which can otherwise accumulate damage and contribute to cellular aging. By stimulating mitophagy, the regeneration of healthy mitochondria is promoted, which is essential for maintaining the vitality and longevity of skin cells. Thus, by acting on mitophagy, we can directly influence cellular aging, delaying the signs of aging and improving the overall quality of the skin.

[0008] There is therefore a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient capable of increasing the longevity of skin cells.

[0009] There is also a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient capable of preventing or reducing mitochondrial dysfunction and / or stimulating mitochondrial metabolism in skin cells.

[0010] There is also a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient capable of increasing the maximum respiration of skin cells.

[0011] There is also a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient capable of increasing the mitophagy process in skin cells.

[0012] There is also a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient capable of preventing and / or treating one or more signs of skin aging, in particular chosen from the group consisting of wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin, loose skin, thinning skin, lack of elasticity and / or lack of skin tone.

[0013] There is also a need for a new cosmetic active ingredient capable of improving the quality, texture and / or appearance of the skin, and / or to combat stress induced by the environment; and / or to reduce skin roughness, and / or to prevent and / or reduce fine lines and wrinkles; and / or to improve the suppleness, bounce and / or firmness of the skin.

[0014] In this context, it is also important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0015] The present invention aims to protect the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to stimulate the mitophagy process, thereby enabling the elimination of non-functional mitochondria responsible for skin cell dysfunction. By acting on this process, azelaic acid improves cell longevity, proper functioning, and skin health. Description of the invention

[0016] The present invention aims to solve at least one of the aforementioned technical problems.

[0017] Indeed, the inventors have demonstrated that azelaic acid improves the mitochondrial network and metabolism by stimulating maximal mitochondrial respiration. This action optimizes energy production in response to cellular needs. Azelaic acid also promotes the expression of the key genes Pinkl and Parkin, involved in mitophagy, and stimulates the fusion of damaged mitochondria with lysosomes, thus ensuring their efficient elimination. Summary of the invention

[0018] As mentioned above, the present invention thus relates to the use, in particular cosmetic, of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to increase the longevity of skin cells.

[0019] It also relates to the use, particularly in cosmetics, of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to prevent and / or treat one or more signs of skin aging, in particular for:

[0020] - to improve the quality, texture and / or appearance of the skin, and / or to combat environmental stress; and / or

[0021] - to reduce skin roughness, and / or prevent and / or reduce fine lines and wrinkles; and / or

[0022] - to improve the suppleness, bounce and / or firmness of the skin; and / or

[0023] - improve the resilience, brightness and / or health of the skin.

[0024] In particular, said sign of skin aging is chosen from the group consisting of wrinkles, fine lines, withered skin, sagging skin, thinning skin, lack of elasticity, lack of resilience, lack of brightness, loss of health and / or lack of skin tone.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment, said use makes it possible to prevent or reduce mitochondrial dysfunction and / or to stimulate mitochondrial metabolism in skin cells.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment, said use makes it possible to increase the maximum respiration of skin cells.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment, said use makes it possible to increase the mitophagy process in skin cells.

[0028] According to one embodiment, azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, is present in a composition, in particular in a cosmetic composition, further comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0029] In particular, azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, is present in said composition in a content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In particular, the composition is topical, and in particular: (i) liquid, preferably selected from creams, emulsions, lotions, dispersions, solutions, gels, balms and serums; or (ii) solid, preferably chosen from masks and sticks.

[0031] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care of keratinous materials, particularly skin, comprising the topical application to these keratinous materials of a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, and a physiologically acceptable medium. Description of the figures

[0032] Figure 1 represents the mitochondrial respiration profile. It shows the variation of the oxygen consumption rate (OCR) in pmol as a function of time in minutes for the different stages of respiration and taking into account sequential injections.

[0033] Fig. 2 shows the variation of the oxygen consumption rate (OCR) in pmol as a function of time in minutes of the cells in the absence of azelaic acid (black circle control curve), in the presence of 22 pg / ml of azelaic acid (grey circle curve), in the presence of 67 pg / ml of azelaic acid (triangle curve) or in the presence of 200 pg / ml of azelaic acid (star curve).

[0034] Fig. 3 shows the variation in the relative gene expression level for pinkl (left graph) and for parkin (right graph) for different cell groups represented by the columns, from left to right: control group (absence of UVB radiation, absence of azelaic acid), "model" group (UVB radiation, absence of azelaic acid) and "AZA" group (UVB radiation, azelaic acid).

[0035] Fig. 4 shows the variation in the relative red flowering intensity for different groups of cells represented by the columns, from left to right: control group "untreated" (absence of UVB radiation, absence of azelaic acid), group "UV" (UVB radiation, absence of azelaic acid) and group "azelaic acid" (UVB radiation, azelaic acid). Detailed description

[0036] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with keratinous materials, in particular skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0037] A composition of the invention includes in particular a "physiologically acceptable" medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous materials, in particular skin.

[0038] Thus, a composition according to the invention has a pleasant color, odor, and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, such as tingling, tightness, or redness, that might discourage the user from applying the composition. Of course, a person skilled in the art will ensure that a physiologically acceptable medium is chosen so that the advantageous properties of the cosmetic active ingredient(s) of the invention are not, or not substantially, altered.

[0039] The pH of a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, implemented according to the invention can in particular be between 4 and 7.5, in particular between 4.5 and 7, and in particular between 4.7 and 6.5.

[0040] The cosmetic uses described in this text are non-therapeutic uses.

[0041] By "keratinous materials", we mean in particular the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and hair appendages.

[0042] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0043] By "treat" or "treatment", we mean any action aimed at improving the comfort, well-being of an individual; this term therefore covers both alleviating, relieving and curing.

[0044] By "reduce" or "reduction" in the context of the present invention, it is understood to mean the reduction of the risk or the probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon, in particular compared to a "normal" situation, that is to say in the absence of the application of the composition according to the invention.

[0045] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" refer to the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0046] Thus, by "preventing the signs of skin aging", we mean preventing or delaying the appearance of signs of aging in the skin.

[0047] By "signs of aging" is meant all changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or photo-induced, such as wrinkles and fine lines, sagging skin, loose skin, thinning skin, lack of skin elasticity and / or tone.

[0048] In the context of the present invention, "increase" or "enhancement" means to increase or improve a certain characteristic or property, particularly compared to a "normal" situation, i.e., in the absence of the application of azelaic acid according to the invention. For example, in the context of the present invention, "increasing the maximum respiration of skin cells" means an increase in this intracellular activity in the presence of azelaic acid, compared to skin cells that have not received azelaic acid.

[0049] By “cellular longevity” is meant the ability of cells to maintain their functions and viability over time, despite damage and environmental or metabolic stresses. This longevity depends on specific biological mechanisms that protect cells against aging, premature death, or dysfunction. However, cellular aging is inevitable and is associated with progressive changes in cellular structure and function.

[0050] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ..."

[0051] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". Azelaic acid

[0052] The present invention relates to the implementation of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, as described above.

[0053] Azelaic acid has been extensively studied for its antibacterial, exfoliating, depigmenting, and antioxidant properties, particularly in the treatment of acne. However, its potential to improve tissue longevity, especially in the skin, remains largely unexplored. Recent studies, such as that by Thach TT et al. (Front Physiol. 2020 Apr 17; 11:329), have highlighted the potential of azelaic acid to stimulate autophagy and mitochondrial biogenesis in muscles, thus suggesting its role in the proper functioning of this organ.

[0054] However, no benefit on the mitochondrial network of the skin has been described to date.

[0055] By "organic or mineral base salts" we mean the salts of bases or of alkali agents as defined below as the hydroxides of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines or even the salts of so-called "basic" amino acids such as lysine or arginine.

[0056] Azelaic acid, or nonanedioic acid, with the molecular formula C9Hi6O4, is the compound with the following formula (I):

[0057] [Chem.l] (I)

[0058] Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from cereals (wheat, rye, and barley) and / or extracted from plants such as tall oil acid (INCI name). It possesses excellent moisturizing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, enabling it to combat skin irregularities such as acne, rosacea, and / or fine lines.

[0059] Azelaic acid typically appears as a white powder. Uses

[0060] The present invention relates to the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to increase the longevity of skin cells.

[0061] According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the use of azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to prevent and / or treat the sign(s) of skin aging, in particular one or more signs of skin aging selected from the group consisting of wrinkles, fine lines, withered skin, sagging skin, thinning skin, lack of elasticity, lack of resilience, lack of radiance and / or lack of skin tone.

[0062] These parameters are well known in the field of skin cosmetics, and are generally representative of the health and quality of the skin.

[0063] Methods and protocols for measuring these parameters are known in art.

[0064] The present invention relates in particular to the use of azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, for:

[0065] - to improve the quality, texture and / or appearance of the skin, and / or to combat environmental stress; and / or

[0066] - to reduce skin roughness, and / or prevent and / or reduce fine lines and wrinkles; and / or

[0067] - to improve the suppleness, bounce and / or firmness of the skin; and / or

[0068] - improve the resilience, brightness and / or health of the skin.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, skin firmness and elasticity can be measured instrumentally, by imaging analysis, with manual tests, by indirect methods based on biomarkers or by clinical study protocols.

[0070] For example, instruments that can be used to measure skin firmness and / or elasticity include a cutometer® (a device that uses mechanical suction to measure skin deformability; it applies controlled suction and analyzes the speed at which the skin returns to its initial state), a reviscometer® (a device that measures the mechanical properties of the skin using the reflection of light after a small deformation induced by vibration) or a ballistometer (a ball strikes the skin with a controlled force and the device measures the rebound speed of the ball to assess firmness).

[0071] Viscoelastic methods allow the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin to be measured using imaging analysis. These include, in particular, the use of high-resolution ultrasound (for example, via the DermaScan® device), 3D imaging (for example, via the PRIMOS® device), or cutaneous MRI, which allows the density of the dermis to be assessed.

[0072] Examples of manual methods for measuring skin firmness and / or elasticity are the "pinch test" (manual or instrumental measurement of the time it takes for pinched skin to return to its initial shape) and mechanical torsion (the skin is subjected to controlled torsion, and the resistance to movement as well as the return to the initial state are measured).

[0073] Indirect methods for measuring skin firmness and / or elasticity based on biomarkers include skin biopsies, which analyze collagen and elastin density in the laboratory, and glycation measurement by biochemical tests (glycated collagen fibers lose their elasticity).

[0074] Skin roughness can be measured using instrumental methods, imaging analyses, or tactile tests. Commonly used instruments include the rugosimeter®, which analyzes skin topography using a tactile sensor or structured light, and the Visioscan®, a device that captures high-resolution images in UV light to measure skin microrelief. 3D imaging, for example via PRIMOS®, also provides precise data on skin roughness by creating a three-dimensional map of its surface. Tactile methods include manual assessments performed by experts, where the skin surface is examined by touch to detect irregularities or asperities.

[0075] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines can be measured by 3D imaging, by measuring skin replicas, by profilometry optical or laser, in vivo confocal microscopy, high-resolution digital photography, or sensory and clinical assessments.

[0076] For 3D imaging, examples of devices that can be used include PRIMOS® (which uses structured light projection to capture a three-dimensional image of the skin) or Visia® Complexion Analysis (which analyzes wrinkles and fine lines in depth using photographs in standard, UV and polarized light).

[0077] The measurement of cutaneous replicas consists of taking a silicone impression on the skin, which is then analyzed under microscopy or scan to measure the microreliefs.

[0078] Optical or laser profilometry consists of projecting a laser beam or optical light onto the skin surface to measure its contours. It can be performed using a FOITS (Fast Optical in vivo Topometry of Human Skin) device.

[0079] In vivo confocal microscopy is a non-invasive analysis of deep skin structures at the cellular level. It reveals deep wrinkles and changes in the dermal matrix (collagen, elastin).

[0080] Finally, high-resolution digital photography involves capturing images of the skin for a qualitative assessment of wrinkles and fine lines. The analysis can be computer-assisted to quantify the length and density of the wrinkles.

[0081] Skin texture can be assessed by topographic analyses and microrelief measurements. Instruments such as the SkinVisiometer® or the Skin Analyser® use optical or tactile techniques to quantify the regularity of the skin surface and visible irregularities. Cross-polarized light imaging, performed by systems such as the Canfield Reveal®, allows for texture assessment by visualizing shadows and reflections caused by irregularities. Finally, local roughness measurements using devices such as the PRIMOS® or mechanical profilometry tests provide quantitative data on the physical properties of skin texture, complementing visual or sensory observations.

[0082] Overall skin quality is assessed using approaches that combine visual analysis, advanced imaging, and instrumental methods. Multispectral imaging, for example via VISIA® Complexion Analysis, allows for the characterization of various parameters such as skin tone, pigmentation spots, porosity, and texture. Colorimetric tests using devices such as the Colorimeter® or Chroma Meter® objectively measure skin tone uniformity and detect subtle imperfections. In addition, clinical observations are often performed by dermatologists or estheticians using standardized assessment grids to evaluate criteria such as radiance, smoothness, and the overall appearance of the skin.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the use of azelaic acid according to the invention prevents or reduces mitochondrial dysfunctions and / or stimulates mitochondrial energy metabolism.

[0084] Mitochondrial dysfunction involves a progressive impairment of mitochondrial functions. The mitochondria, the cell's true powerhouses, control cellular metabolism. However, with age and under the influence of oxidative stress, mitochondria are damaged, and the mechanisms for eliminating damaged mitochondria (mitophagy) as well as the mechanisms for regenerating new mitochondria (mitochondrial biogenesis) become impaired. This mitochondrial damage directly alters cellular metabolism, increases ROS production, and accelerates inflammatory processes. This vicious cycle contributes to a state of chronic oxidative stress, which is harmful to cells and accelerates skin aging.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment, the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, according to the invention, makes it possible to increase the maximum respiration of skin cells.

[0086] This ability suggests that azelaic acid can mobilize cellular mechanisms to optimize mitochondrial respiration and generate energy production according to needs

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates or mixtures thereof, according to the invention, makes it possible to increase the expression of genes encoding the key proteins Pinkl and parkin in skin cells.

[0088] Pinkl is a 581-amino-acid protein containing a serine / threonine kinase domain, as well as a peptide / signal / message targeting the mitochondria. The parkin protein plays a key role in regulating the quality of cellular proteins and organelles, particularly in the mechanisms of protein degradation of damaged or unnecessary proteins by the ubiquitin-proteasome system. It is especially involved in maintaining mitochondrial homeostasis.

[0089] Pinkl and parkin are both involved in the process of mitophagy.

[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, according to the invention, makes it possible to increase the mitophagy process in skin cells. Such activity makes it possible to induce the fusion of altered mitochondria with lysosomes, thus ensuring the elimination of damaged mitochondria.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, according to the invention allows, in skin cells, (i) to increase maximum respiration, (ii) to increase the expression of genes encoding the key proteins Pinkl and parkin and (iii) to increase the process of mitophagy.

[0092] The present text further describes azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, for its use in increasing the longevity of skin cells.

[0093] Azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, is also described for use in the prevention and / or treatment of the sign(s) of skin aging, in particular one or more signs of skin aging selected from the group consisting of wrinkles, fine lines, withered skin, sagging skin, thinning skin, lack of elasticity, lack of resilience, lack of radiance and / or lack of skin tone.

[0094] Such uses are described elsewhere in this text.

[0095] A method for increasing the longevity of skin cells is also described, comprising at least one step of administering azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, or a composition comprising azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, and a physiologically acceptable medium, to an individual in need.

[0096] A method for preventing and / or treating sign(s) of skin aging is also described, in particular one or more signs of skin aging selected from the group consisting of wrinkles, fine lines, withered skin, sagging skin, thinning skin, lack of elasticity, lack of resilience, lack of luminosity and / or lack of skin tone comprising at least one step of administering azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, or a composition comprising azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, and a physiologically acceptable medium, to an individual in need thereof.

[0097] In particular, an individual in need of this is a healthy individual, that is, a non-ill individual wishing to improve the quality of their skin. Thus, skin considered according to the present invention is healthy skin. By "healthy skin," we mean skin free from lesions and / or infection.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the administration of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, or of a composition according to the invention, constitutes topical administration. Cosmetic compositions

[0099] According to one embodiment, azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, implemented according to the invention, is present in a composition, in particular in a cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, may be present in a composition, in particular in a cosmetic composition, in a content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight of azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] In particular, azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, is present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better from 0.3% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0102] A composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase and / or an oily phase.

[0103] An aqueous phase of a composition used according to the invention comprises in particular water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent and is preferably monophasic.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises a water content of between 10% and 98% by weight, preferably between 25% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 35% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] By "water-soluble organic solvent" according to the present invention, we mean a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0106] The water-soluble solvents usable in a composition of the invention may be volatile.

[0107] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in a composition according to the invention, particular mention may be made of lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and also alkylene carbonates.

[0108] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

[0109] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 30% by total weight of at least one polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, even better from 0.7% to 5% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0111] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, with a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups. Preferably, a polyol that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear alkyl-type compound bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0112] The polyol(s) advantageously suitable for the formulation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is / are those having in particular from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0113] The polyol(s) that can be used according to the present invention is / are chosen from linear polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including, in particular: - diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and their mixtures.

[0114] According to a much preferred embodiment, the polyol is chosen from triols such as glycerin.

[0115] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may further include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as stabilizing agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof. Fatty phase

[0116] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0117] For the purposes of this invention, the term "fat phase" means all the lipophilic components of a formulation, whether liquid, semi-solid, or solid at room temperature. This includes, in particular, oils, butters, waxes, as well as fatty acids, lipid esters, and other fats used in the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0118] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise varying from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of fat phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. Oils

[0120] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0121] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, particularly cosmetics, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0122] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0123] The oily phase may include, in addition to the merocyanin(s) and possibly additional lipophilic filters, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.

[0124] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0125] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0126] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0127] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Volatile oils

[0128] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0129] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0130] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, we can mention in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and by for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] One can also mention volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0132] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0133] Examples of cyclic siliconized volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0134] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used. Non-volatile oils

[0135] By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0136] Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0137] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof, - Non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa·s at 20°C, measured with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer. "Non-volatile alkane" is defined as a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, with a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March 1992: "Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K”. In particular, non-volatile alkanes comprise 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame seed oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel. - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils with the formula RiCOOR2, in which RI represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched one containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; citrates, such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and Ci-C6 alcohol ester with the INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer;tartrates such as linear di-alkyl tartrates having 12 or 13; carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates, - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" by Ajinomoto, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids in the C12-C22 range, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis; - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils. Other fats

[0138] A fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in an oil, other fatty substances.

[0139] Other fatty substances that may be present in the fatty phase of a composition used according to the invention are, for example: - fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - waxes, distinct from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; - silicone elastomers such as products marketed under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil" or "BY29" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries; - a gum chosen from among the silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a paste-like compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.

[0140] As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax. Such waxes may be selected from lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0141] As a fat, a composition according to the invention may include in particular at least one butter, more particularly a vegetable butter.

[0142] The vegetable butter(s) suitable for a composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from the group including avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, annatto butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

[0143] These fats can be chosen in a variety of ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and mixtures of these different oils, even better selected from synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0145] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a polar oil.

[0146] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from squalane, mixtures of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, alkyl benzoates having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester of Ci-C6 alcohols with INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from diisopropyl sebacate, Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0148] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is free of silicone oil(s).

[0149] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile ester oil. Hydrophilic Gelling / Thickening Agent

[0151] A composition according to the present invention may include at least one hydrophilic gelling (or thickening) agent, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.

[0152] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C 10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a W / O emulsion,such as those marketed under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof. The quantity of gelling agents depends on the desired purpose.

[0153] More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.

[0154] According to one embodiment, the quantity of hydrophilic gelling agents ranges for example from 0.01 to 10% and for example from 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional asset(s)

[0155] A composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional active ingredient(s). These additional active ingredients are different from azelaic acid.

[0156] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose one or more additional active ingredients such that the advantageous properties of azelaic acid are not, or substantially not, altered.

[0157] Additional active ingredients may include, for example, moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, various anti-aging agents, mattifying agents; healing agents; preservatives such as antibacterial agents; UV filters, in particular lipophilic ones and their mixtures.

[0158] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one additional active ingredient, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one additional active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] A composition according to the invention may contain one or more of the adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free radical scavengers; essential oils; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; and mixtures thereof. The total quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible adjuvant(s) added to a composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0161] The quantities of these different adjuvants are those classically used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and can, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0162] A composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field, in particular in the cosmetic field of skin care.

[0163] It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, or optionally gelled solution; a lotion-type dispersion, possibly two-phase; an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple oil-in-water emulsion; a gel, particularly an aqueous gel; or a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, particularly using spherules, these spherules being polymeric particles or, preferably, ionic and / or non-ionic lipid vesicles. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, particularly an aqueous gel. It may also be an anhydrous composition.An anhydrous composition is defined as a composition containing less than 10% water by weight, in particular less than 5% water by weight, more specifically less than 2% water by weight, or even less than 0.5% water, and notably free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. The composition may have a more or less fluid liquid consistency.

[0164] A composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for topical administration.

[0165] Thus, a composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0166] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in an oily phase (W / O) or an oily phase in an aqueous phase (W / O), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as milk, or of soft consistency, or even as a multiple emulsion (W / O / O or W / O / O). These compositions are prepared according to known conventional methods.

[0167] More particularly, a composition according to the invention may be intended for topical application and, in particular, may be in the form of an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water emulsion. In particular, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed off after application.

[0168] A composition according to the invention is more particularly intended to be applied to skin.

[0169] In particular, the skin is the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms or forearms, or more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0170] The composition according to the invention may alternatively have the form of a face and / or body care or makeup product, and be packaged for example as a cream in a jar or as a fluid in a tube or pump bottle or dropper bottle.

[0171] A composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0172] The ingredients can be mixed before shaping, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0173] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, other agents intended to enhance the appearance and / or texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.

[0174] In particular, a composition used according to the invention, especially a topical one, is:

[0175] (i) liquid, preferably selected from creams, emulsions, lotions, dispersions, solutions, gels, balms and serums; or

[0176] (ii) solid, preferably selected from masks and sticks. cosmetic process

[0177] Finally, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0178] The composition implemented in the uses and processes according to the invention may be as described elsewhere in this text.

[0179] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0180] The cosmetic uses and processes of the invention are more particularly implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0181] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0182] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can be formulated for example in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or cleansing milk, in particular in the form of a gel.

[0183] The application can be repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over a prolonged period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0184] According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over a prolonged period of at least 3 days, at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption.

[0185] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application.

[0186] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0187] Raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name. Quantities The amounts shown are % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of composition, unless otherwise stated.

[0188] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is ambient temperature (25°C), expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure. Examples

[0189] Example 1: Effect of azelaic acid on mitochondrial respiration

[0190] Protocol

[0191] Human epidermal keratinocytes from so-called "normal" skin were seeded in a 96-well plate specific for Seahorse and incubated in culture medium until confluence. The medium was then replaced with culture medium containing or not (control) azelaic acid, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours before mitochondrial respiration was assessed. Three different concentrations of azelaic acid were tested: 22 pg / ml, 67 pg / ml, and 200 pg / ml. All experiments were performed in triplicate (n=3).

[0192] Seahorse XF® (Agilent) technology measures mitochondrial respiration in real time in a microchamber. It is measured from the real-time oxygen consumption rate (OCR) of cells, which is a key indicator of mitochondrial respiration. Three parameters were measured:

[0193] - basal respiration,

[0194] - ATP production,

[0195] - maximum respiration, allowing the definition of the "Spare capacity" (i.e. the reserve respiratory capacity).

[0196] Different measurement cycles are carried out depending on the sequential injections:

[0197] - of oligomycin which inhibits ATP synthase, in order to determine ATP production;

[0198] - of FCCP (Carbonyl cyanide-4 (trifluoromethoxy) phenylhydrazone) which stimulates OCR allows us to determine emergency respiratory capacity, defined as the difference between the maximum value of respiration and basal respiration;

[0199] - of rotenone and antimycin A which allow the cessation of mitochondrial respiration in order to determine non-mitochondrial respiration.

[0200] The mitochondrial respiration profile is shown in [Fig. 1].

[0201] Basal respiration corresponds to the oxygen consumption of cells for normal energy activity. Its value is proportional to the metabolic activity of the cell.

[0202] ATP production is directly proportional to the energy requirements of cells.

[0203] Maximum respiration is directly proportional to the metabolic agility of the cell. The higher its value, the more reactive the system.

[0204] Respiratory reserve capacity measures the cell's ability to respond to increased energy demand or stress.

[0205] The results showed that azelaic acid increases maximal mitochondrial respiration in cells, compared to control cells, for all three azelaic acid concentrations tested (see [Fig.2]). Example 2: Measurement of pinkl and parkin mRNAs

[0206] HaCaT keratinocyte line cells were cultured and then seeded in a 6-well plate.

[0207] The cells were or were not subjected to UVB exposure (50 mJ / cm2) in PB S buffer.

[0208] Cell viability control was then performed by MTT colorimetric assay.

[0209] Azelaic acid was then added to the middle of the "AZA" group at a concentration of 200 pg / mL. This concentration is non-cytotoxic. The treatment duration was 24 hours.

[0210] Pinkl and parkin mRNA expression was measured by RT-qPCR after 24 hours of treatment, using appropriate primers.

[0211] The results showed that azelaic acid increases the expression of pinkl and parkin in cells, compared to control cells (see [Fig. 3]). It was also observed that the mitophagy process is decreased after UVB treatment.

[0212] Example 3: Evaluation of the mitophagy process by fluorescein

[0213] HaCaT keratinocyte line cells were cultured and then seeded in a 24-well plate.

[0214] They were then incubated with a dye allowing visualization of mitophagy processes (MtPhagy ® dye) for 30 min.

[0215] The cells were then exposed to UVB rays (50 mJ / cm2), with the exception of the control group.

[0216] Azelaic acid was then added to the middle of the "azelaic acid" group at a concentration of 200 pg / mL. This concentration is non-cytotoxic. The treatment duration was 24 hours.

[0217] The cells were then incubated again with a dye that allows visualization of lysosomes (LysoDye®).

[0218] They were then observed by fluorescence microscopy.

[0219] The results of these observations showed that, in the presence of azelaic acid, the relative red fluorescence intensity is equivalent to the fluorescence intensity relative red of the untreated group. These results suggest that azelaic acid can restore the mitophagy process after exposure of cells to UVB (see [Fig.4]).

Claims

Demands

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to increase the longevity of skin cells.

2. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of azelaic acid, one of its organic or mineral base salts, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, to prevent and / or treat one or more signs of skin aging, in particular to: - improve the quality, texture and / or appearance of the skin, and / or to combat environmental stress; and / or - reduce skin roughness, and / or prevent and / or reduce fine lines and wrinkles; and / or - improve the suppleness, bounce and / or firmness of the skin; and / or - improve the resilience, radiance and / or health of the skin.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, said sign of skin aging being selected from the group consisting of wrinkles, fine lines, withered skin, sagging skin, thinning skin, lack of elasticity, lack of resilience, lack of radiance and / or lack of skin tone.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, said use enabling the prevention or reduction of mitochondrial dysfunction and / or the stimulation of mitochondrial metabolism in skin cells.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, said use enabling the maximum respiration of skin cells to be increased.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, said use enabling the increase of the mitophagy process in skin cells.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, is present in a composition, in particular in a cosmetic composition, further comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

8. Use according to claim 7, wherein azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvated substances, or mixtures thereof, are present in said composition in a content greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, or better, greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Use according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the composition is topical, and in particular: (i) liquid, preferably selected from creams, emulsions, lotions, dispersions, solutions, gels, balms and serums; or (ii) solid, preferably selected from masks and sticks.

10. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratinous materials of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising azelaic acid, one of its salts of organic or mineral bases, one of its solvates, or mixtures thereof, and a physiologically acceptable medium.

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