Emulsion cosmetic
By combining polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate with a solid fatty acid ester and optimizing surfactant ratios, the emulsion cosmetic addresses stability and adhesion issues, ensuring uniform and stable application.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024049812
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-26
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-08
AI Technical Summary
Emulsion cosmetics containing nonionic surfactants, powders, and polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate exhibit poor emulsion stability at high temperatures, leading to uneven application and poor adhesion to the skin.
Incorporating a specific amount of polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate along with a fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C and a color pigment, optimizing the HLB values and mass ratios of nonionic surfactants, enhances emulsion stability and adhesion to the skin.
The emulsion cosmetic achieves excellent stability at high temperatures, even application without unevenness, and firm adhesion to the skin, improving the overall cosmetic finish.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to an emulsion cosmetic. [Background technology]
[0002] Conventionally, various studies have been conducted on emulsion cosmetics in order to satisfy the requirements for both feel during use, such as adhesion to the skin, and stability over time. For example, Patent Document 1 describes a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that contains a specific acrylic water-soluble polymer that exhibits thickening properties when electrolytes are added, an electrolyte, an aqueous component, and a silicone surfactant, and that has a fresh, non-sticky feel when used, yet spreads on the skin while maintaining its thickness, resulting in excellent durability of the massage action and excellent stability over time. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0003] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2010-235469 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0004] Emulsion cosmetics containing nonionic surfactants, powders, and polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate have poor emulsion stability at high temperatures, posing a problem in terms of the finish on the skin after application. [Means for solving the problem]
[0005] The present inventors have discovered that by including at least a specific amount of (B1) polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate in addition to a fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C, a nonionic surfactant, and a color pigment, it is possible to obtain an emulsion cosmetic that has excellent storage stability at high temperatures, good adhesion to the skin, and can be applied evenly and without unevenness.
[0006] The present invention comprises the following components (A), (B) and (C): (A) a fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C; (B) a nonionic surfactant, (C) Color pigment The present invention relates to an emulsion cosmetic comprising the above, wherein component (B) contains at least (B1) polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate in an amount of 0.005 to 0.7% by mass based on the total composition. [Effects of the Invention]
[0007] The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has excellent emulsion stability at high temperatures, excellent adhesion to the skin, and can be applied evenly and without unevenness. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The component (A) used in the present invention is a fatty acid ester that is solid at 25° C. Being solid at 25° C. means that it exhibits semi-solid to solid properties at 25° C. Examples of the fatty acid ester of component (A) include glycerin fatty acid esters. As the glycerin fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C, triesters are preferred, and from the viewpoints of uniformity and excellent stability of emulsified particles at high temperatures and excellent adhesion to the skin, triglycerides of fatty acids having 20 to 28 carbon atoms are more preferred, triglycerides of fatty acids having 20 to 24 carbon atoms are even more preferred, and those containing tribehenin are even more preferred. Further examples include monoesters of fatty acids having 14 to 22 carbon atoms and alcohols having 14 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, behenyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, arachyl palmitate, behenyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, arachyl stearate, behenyl stearate, myristyl behenate, cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, arachyl behenate, and behenyl behenate, and monoesters of fatty acids having 14 to 18 carbon atoms and alcohols having 14 to 18 carbon atoms are preferred.
[0009] Component (A) is preferably a glycerin fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C, and more preferably contains tribehenin.
[0010] Component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and from the viewpoints of uniformity and excellent stability of emulsion particles at high temperatures and excellent adhesion to the skin, the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more of the total composition, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.8% by mass or more, and preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3.5% by mass or less. The content of component (A) is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass of the total composition, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass, and even more preferably 0.8 to 3.5% by mass.
[0011] The nonionic surfactant of component (B) may be any surfactant commonly used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquistearate, and sorbitan sesquioleate; glycerin fatty acid esters, diglycerin fatty acid esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, alkyl glyceryl ethers, alkyl polyglyceryl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkylamines; polyether-modified silicones such as polyoxyethylene-methylpolysiloxane copolymers and poly(oxyethylene-oxypropylene)methylpolysiloxane copolymers; and silicone surfactants such as polyglycerin-modified silicones, alkyl-modified polyether-modified silicones, and alkyl chain-co-modified polyether-modified silicones.
[0012] The nonionic surfactant of component (B) preferably has an HLB value of 2 to 7, more preferably 3 to 6, from the viewpoint of enhancing dispersibility. Here, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) indicates the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group portion relative to the total molecular weight of the surfactant, and is calculated using Griffin's equation. When a surfactant is composed of two or more nonionic surfactants, the HLB of the mixed surfactant is calculated as follows: The HLB of the mixed surfactant is the arithmetic average of the HLB values of each nonionic surfactant based on their blending ratio. Mixed HLB=Σ(HLBx×Wx) / ΣWx HLBx indicates the HLB value of nonionic surfactant X. Wx represents the mass (g) of the nonionic surfactant X having the value of HLBx.
[0013] The nonionic surfactant of component (B) preferably contains one or more surfactants selected from silicone surfactants, sugar fatty acid esters, and polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate.
[0014] In the present invention, from the viewpoints of achieving uniform and stable emulsified particles at high temperatures, excellent adhesion to the skin, and enabling uniform application to the skin without unevenness, the component (B) contains at least (B1) polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate in an amount of 0.005 to 0.7 mass% based on the total composition. (B1) polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate is a diester of polyethylene glycol with polyhydroxystearic acid. In component (B1), the hydrophobic group moiety, poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), preferably has a weight-average molecular weight of 1,000 to 4,000, and the hydrophilic group moiety, polyethylene glycol, preferably has a weight-average molecular weight of 400 to 6,000. The weight-average molecular weight is calculated using a GPC measurement device. Component (B1) is preferably known by the INCI name "PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate," and examples of commercially available products of this compound include "CITHROL DPHS" (manufactured by Croda).
[0015] The content of component (B1) is 0.005 to 0.7% by mass, preferably 0.01 to 0.6% by mass, and more preferably 0.04 to 0.5% by mass, of the total composition, from the viewpoints of uniformity and excellent stability of emulsified particles at high temperatures, excellent adhesion to the skin, and ability to apply evenly and without unevenness to the skin.
[0016] The nonionic surfactant of component (B) can be one or more types, and the content of component (B) including component (B1) is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, even more preferably 2.5% by mass or more, and preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3.5% by mass or less, based on the total composition, from the viewpoints of excellent emulsion stability and excellent application properties. The content of component (B) is preferably 0.5 to 8% by mass, more preferably 1 to 5% by mass, and even more preferably 2.5 to 3.5% by mass, based on the total composition.
[0017] In the present invention, the mass ratio (B1) / (B) of component (B1) to component (B) is preferably 0.01 or more, and is preferably 0.24 or less, more preferably 0.2 or less, and even more preferably 0.17 or less, from the viewpoints of achieving uniform and stable emulsion particles at high temperatures, excellent adhesion to the skin, and uniform application to the skin without unevenness. Furthermore, the mass ratio (B1) / (B) of component (B1) to component (B) is preferably 0.01 to 0.24, more preferably 0.01 to 0.2, and even more preferably 0.01 to 0.17.
[0018] In the present invention, from the viewpoints of achieving uniform and stable emulsified particles at high temperatures, excellent adhesion to the skin, and uniform application to the skin, the mass ratio (A) / (B1) of component (A) to component (B1) is preferably 3 or more, and is preferably 80 or less, more preferably 60 or less, and even more preferably 42 or less. Furthermore, the mass ratio (A) / (B1) of component (A) to component (B1) is preferably 3 to 80, more preferably 3 to 60, and even more preferably 3 to 42.
[0019] Examples of the color pigments of component (C) include those commonly used in cosmetics, such as metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide; metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate; inorganic pigments such as carbon black; synthetic organic pigments such as Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 405, Red No. 505, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 1, and Blue 404; and natural organic pigments such as β-carotene, caramel, and paprika pigment. Among these, it is preferable to include one or more selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide, more preferable to include one or more selected from titanium oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide, and even more preferable to include at least titanium oxide.
[0020] The color pigment of component (C) can be used as it is, or can be subjected to a hydrophobic treatment by a conventional method before use. Examples of hydrophobic treatments include surface treatments such as fluorine compound treatment, silicone treatment, alkyl treatment, alkylsilane treatment, metal soap treatment, water-soluble polymer treatment, amino acid treatment, acylated amino acid treatment, lecithin treatment, organic titanate treatment, polyol treatment, acrylic resin treatment, methacrylic resin treatment, and urethane resin treatment, and amino acid treatment and acylated amino acid treatment are preferred.
[0021] Examples of amino acids used to treat color pigments include proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, sarcosine, lysine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid, as well as salts thereof. The fatty acid constituting the acyl group of the acylated amino acid is preferably a fatty acid having 1 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferably a fatty acid having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and among these, stearoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, lauroyl aspartic acid, dilauroyl glutamic acid lysine, and lauroyl lysine are even more preferred. Examples of salts thereof include Na, Ca, Al, Mg, Zn, Zr, and Ti salts. Specifically, from the viewpoints of firmly adhering to the skin grooves and ridges of the skin texture, having excellent covering power, and improving the overall appearance of a beautiful makeup finish on the face, those treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, or disodium cocoyl glutamate are preferred, and those treated with sodium lauroyl aspartate or disodium cocoyl glutamate are more preferred. The amino acid treatment can be carried out according to a conventional method. The color pigment of component (C) may be hydrophobized with a compound other than amino acids, but from the viewpoint of achieving uniform application without unevenness, it is preferable that it does not include silicone treatment.
[0022] Component (C) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and from the viewpoint of improving covering power and a beautiful overall facial makeup finish, the content is preferably 1% by mass or more of the total composition, more preferably 4% by mass or more, even more preferably 6% by mass or more, and preferably 30% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, and even more preferably 15% by mass or less. The content of component (C) is preferably 1 to 30% by mass of the total composition, more preferably 4 to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 6 to 15% by mass.
[0023] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may further contain an organic ultraviolet absorber. Although organic UV absorbers have excellent UV protection effects, they have the problem of poor adhesion to the skin and tend to become uneven after application. However, this can be solved by using a combination of ingredients (A) a fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C, (B) a nonionic surfactant, and (C) a coloring pigment. Examples of organic UV absorbers include 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, drometrizole trisiloxane, 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, and 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidinepropionate.
[0024] Among these, from the viewpoints of emulsion stability and UV protection effect, it is preferable to use one or more selected from 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)hexyl benzoate, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, and 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine.
[0025] The organic UV absorbers can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and from the viewpoint of achieving excellent UV protection and spreading evenly on the skin, the content is preferably 3% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, and even more preferably 6% by mass or more, and preferably 16% by mass or less, more preferably 13% by mass or less, and even more preferably 11% by mass or less, based on the total composition. The content of the organic UV absorbers is preferably 3 to 16% by mass, more preferably 5 to 13% by mass, and even more preferably 6 to 11% by mass, based on the total composition.
[0026] In the present invention, the content of water is preferably 10 to 60% by mass, more preferably 20 to 58% by mass, and even more preferably 30 to 55% by mass, of the total composition, from the viewpoint of obtaining a stable emulsion cosmetic.
[0027] In addition to the above-mentioned components, the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may contain components that are commonly used in cosmetics, such as surfactants other than those mentioned above, oily components other than those mentioned above, powders other than those mentioned above, polymeric compounds, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, disinfectants, skin activators, moisturizers, and refreshing agents.
[0028] From the viewpoints of being environmentally friendly and providing an excellent feel when used, the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains no more than 1% by mass of organic resin powder such as microplastics in the total composition, more preferably no more than 0.1% by mass, and even more preferably is substantially free of such powder. Specifically, it refers to organic resin powder other than cellulose powder that is highly biodegradable. Examples of organic resin powders include crosslinked or non-crosslinked organic resin powders such as powders of one or more polymers or copolymers selected from polyamide resin, nylon resin, polyester resin, polyethylene resin, polytetrafluoroethylene resin, polypropylene resin, polystyrene resin, benzoguanamine resin, polymethylbenzoguanamine resin, polyurethane resin, vinyl resin, fluororesin, acrylic resin, and melamine resin; butyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymer, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer, silicone resin, and divinylbenzene-styrene copolymer.
[0029] The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method and can be made into a dosage form such as a liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, or solid. Furthermore, the emulsion cosmetic of the present invention may be either a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic or an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, and is preferably a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic.
[0030] The emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be used, for example, as makeup cosmetics such as a makeup base, foundation, concealer, blusher, and eye shadow; and as ultraviolet protection cosmetics such as a sunscreen emulsion and sunscreen cream, and is therefore suitable as a makeup cosmetic. [Example]
[0031] Production Example 1 (Production of Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone): In a 100 mL two-neck flask equipped with a condenser and a magnetic stirrer, add the following
[0032] [ka]
[0033] 15 g (4.4 mmol) of organohydrogensiloxane represented by the formula (I), 8.1 g (33 mmol) of 10-undecenyl glyceryl ether, 0.65 g (0.66 mmol) of a 10% ethanol solution of potassium acetate, and 50 g of isopropyl alcohol were charged, and 0.17 g (6.6 × 10) of a 2% isopropyl alcohol solution of chloroplatinic acid was added. -3 (mmol) was added and heated to raise the temperature. The temperature of the contents was maintained at 40°C and stirred for 2.5 hours. The solvent was removed by distillation and treated with activated carbon, and then unreacted 10-undecenyl glyceryl ether was removed by vacuum distillation to obtain a brown, highly viscous substance. 1H-NMR spectrum of the resulting product confirmed that it was glyceryl undecyl dimethicone (formula below; p=60, q=4) (average molecular weight calculated by 1H-NMR: 5800, alkyl glyceryl ether group content: 17% by weight).
[0034] [ka]
[0035] Examples 1 to 7, Comparative Examples 1 to 3 Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics (liquid foundations) were prepared with the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2, and were evaluated for emulsion stability (45°C, 1 month), adhesion to the skin, and uniform application. The results are also shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0036] (Manufacturing method) A powder phase containing component (C) was added to an oil phase containing components (A), (B), and (B1) and dispersed, and then the aqueous phase components were added and stirred with a homomixer to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic (liquid foundation).
[0037] (Evaluation method) (1) Emulsion stability (45°C, 1 month) Each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic was stored in a 45°C thermostatic chamber for one month, and the emulsion particle size was visually observed under an optical microscope at 2000x magnification and evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of three expert evaluators. 5. The size of the emulsion particles is very uniform. 4: The size of the emulsion particles is almost uniform. 3: The size of the emulsion particles is slightly uneven. 2: The size of the emulsion particles is uneven. 1: The coalescence of emulsion particles has progressed significantly, causing emulsion destruction.
[0038] (2) Skin Adhesion: Three expert evaluators evaluated the adhesion of each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic to the skin when it was applied, according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the three evaluators. 5. It adheres firmly to the skin's grooves and ridges. 4. It adheres closely to the skin grooves and ridges of the skin texture. 3: It adheres somewhat to the skin grooves and ridges of the skin texture. 2: It does not adhere well to the skin's texture grooves and ridges. 1: It is not in close contact with the skin's texture grooves and ridges.
[0039] (3) Can be applied evenly and without unevenness: Three expert evaluators applied each water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic to the skin and evaluated the evenness of application immediately after application according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score of the three evaluators. 5. It can be applied evenly and firmly to the skin without any unevenness. 4. It can be applied evenly to the skin without any blemishes. 3; It can be applied evenly and evenly to the skin. 2;It doesn't spread very evenly on the skin. 1;It cannot be applied evenly to the skin.
[0040] [Table 1]
[0041] [Table 2]
Claims
1. The following components (A), (B), and (C): (A) a fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C; (B) a nonionic surfactant, (C) Color pigment and component (B) contains at least (B1) polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate in an amount of 0.005 to 0.7% by mass based on the total composition.
2. 2. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein component (A) is a glycerin fatty acid ester that is solid at 25°C.
3. 3. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (A) is 0.1 to 10% by mass, the content of component (B) is 0.5 to 8% by mass, and the content of component (C) is 1 to 30% by mass.
4. 3. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio (A) / (B1) of component (A) to component (B1) is 3 to 80.
5. 3. The emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio (B1) / (B) of component (B1) to component (B) is 0.01 to 0.24.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic
JP2010235469A